style with an edge
Transcription
style with an edge
TREND REPORT STYLE WITH AN EDGE 2014’S MOST UPDATED TRENDS IN MEN’S FASHION + THE DO’s AND DONT's YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT RAYMOND TREND REPORT 1 SUITS SHIRTS BANDHGALAS SHOES TIES CUFFLINKS and more CONCEPT & REALISATION: VISHWAVEER SINGH ART DIRECTION: SURESH BHANDARY PHOTO RESEARCH: KIRTHIKA PRASAD 2 RAYMOND TREND REPORT PHOTO: RYAN MARTIS DESIGNER'S NOTE Vito Dell'Erba Creative Director, Raymond D ressing well for men is a chore. It comes to some easily, but to most it’s a lifelong process of discovery and learning from trial and error. In India, men’s fashion is changing just as rapidly as the country’s skyline. Men no longer go in for the tried and tested formulas but experiment with looks and fashions... sometimes successfully and sometimes rather poorly. In an effort to keep up with the times we at Raymond compiled a list of this year’s most note-worthy trends and some very basic rules for dressing. This Trend Report is the result of our efforts to give the Indian man a guiding compass for his journey into fashion and style. “ The urban man-about-town in Mumbai or New Delhi has to deal with a whole different set of requirements than his brethren in New York, London or Milan ” The rules that hold true for the West don’t necessarily work for the Indian gent. The urban man-about-town in Mumbai or New Delhi has to deal with a whole different set of requirements than his brethren in New York, London or Milan. That doesn’t however mean that he can’t be just as cutting-edge and up to date with all things fashionable as everyone else. Bespokely tailored for the needs of this breed, the Trend Report you hold in your hands or are reading on your screen, is probably the first attempt at producing an all-you-need-to-know guide into fashion for Indian men. We hope you pick up a few pointers from it and learn from the fine clotheshorses who grace its pages. RAYMOND TREND REPORT 3 EVENING WEAR E very Indian bloke has some version of evening wear in his wardrobe... that black multi-purpose suit that doubles up as funeral-wear when visiting a cemetery, becomes a tuxedo with a black tie when the occasion calls for it and morphs into clubbing-wear when paired with denims and a white shirt. If you’re reading this, we suggest you burn that good-for-all-occasions monstrosity as soon as you can. It’s time to invest in evening wear that’s event appropriate. There’s nothing shabbier than having an ill-fitting black suit that you use for your friend’s weddings, your office dinners and for interviews. Leave the emotional baggage behind, we know the fella has been with you through thick and thin, it’s time to make new friends... the crisp, well-fitted, fashionable kinds. TUXEDOS There’s never been a more accepting age for the tuxedo than the one we are experiencing now. Bollywood, that enigmatic dispenser of all fashion trends to the masses, has deemed the tux au courant, which means that every award presenter worth his salt is going to be sporting a tuxedo, guests at these filmi soirées are going to don designer-borrowed tuxedos and put on their clip on bow-ties in an effort to look as much like Sean Connery (demanding a shaken, not stirred Martini) as they can. This doesn’t mean you jump in the same well as the good folks on the silver screen. Jay Z wears a velour dinner jacket to a formal event 4 RAYMOND TREND REPORT WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT ■ A black, classic tuxedo is a safe bet and will never go out of fashion. Don’t go for the three-piece rigmarole, ditch the vest and you’re all set. ■ There’s nothing more criminal than an illfitted tuxedo at a high-end party. Everyone’s making an effort and so should you. If you’re one of those tricky few who can’t find their sizes easily when picking up off the rack, we suggest you make a quick trip to your neighbourhood tailor (not the darzi!) and get something bespoke tailored. ■ If you feel you can carry it off, by that we mean you have the personality for it, opt for a white tuxedo jacket paired with black fitted trousers. The fit and the collar of your jacket make all the difference here. Broad, dramatic lapels are in. The shawl collar goes better with the black jacket and can make you look like a waiter or a groom in a white one, unless you’re Andy Garcia! Prince Charles has always exemplified British-chic when it comes to evening dressing (above), the same goes for his compatriot Colin Firth and American screen supernova George Clooney RAYMOND TREND REPORT 5 WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT ■ Make sure you have silk stripes on your trousers and on the stitching of your jacket pockets or lapels. This is one sure-shot way of making out the difference between a tux and a normal black suit. ■ Winged-tipped collared shirts were OK when The Godfather was shot. Not all of us are Marlon Brando, so let’s just stick to crisp white shirts. Try to see that they are specially tailored for a dinner jacket, i.e. a stiff front with black or enamelled buttons. Shirt collars must match with jacket collars, so the general rule is if you’ve got slim lapels, go in for small shirt-collars and if they’re broad lapels opt for more high-collared shirts. ■ Tux buttons are cloth-covered and not your garden variety plastic kinds... always make a note of this. ■ Cummerbunds were last spotted on an octogenarian server at Brittania restaurant. Don’t go in for this if you feel you can’t carry it off or have a mid-riff that knocks things over without you knowing. The extra cloth only adds to one’s girth. ■ Try, for the love of God, to get your hands on a bow-tie that has to be tied by hand and not a clip-on. There are many videos on YouTube that will show you exactly how to get your bow-tie sorted before heading out and without much stress. If you’re not a pimp, opt for a plain black bow-tie. Experiment with the material, velvet vs silk. ■ The shoes have to be shiny, think patent leather and with laces. Slip-on velour loafers work as well, but give a very gambling-inMonaco feel. You choose. Sports shoes and keds on a tux are for Justin Bieber and rappers who have more gold in their mouths than a return flight from Dubai. 6 RAYMOND TREND REPORT TRENDING NOW Slim fitted Double-breasted and single-buttoned Velour, smoking jackets Subtly textured jackets Coloured tuxedos Oversized floppy bow-ties NEVER-EVER! Ranveer Singh in a paisley tuxedo – This only works if you are a Bollywood actor Pharrell Williams and Helen Lasichanh can afford to dress up like this, not you Kevin Spacey looks very un-like his character from House of Cards, Francis Underwood in a blue tuxeo (top), Douglas Booth dons a shawl-collared, single buttoned DJ (above). Andy Garica, Daniel Craig and Amitabh Bachchan show us the way to go (opposite page) RAYMOND TREND REPORT 7 SUITS T he Indian gent has been a lot like Alice in Wonderland when it comes to suits. We’ve seen all sorts of faux pas where putting on a suit, which has whether we like it or not, become a staple of our formalwear diet. Polyesters and itchy fabrics rule the roost when you see the general populace, but now it’s time to evolve and go in for revolutionary fabrics like cool wool, linen, silk for the good occasions... things that work for people in the West don’t always work for our climate here, and that goes for fashions and fits as well. Harvey Specter, Louis Litt and Mike Ross from Suits are some of the trendiest gents out there right now (above, right), Prince Michael of Kent has always been the poster-child of sartorial dressing (right) WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT ■ Make sure your suit jacket ends right where your derriere stops and your thighs begin. This is a rule for most jackets. ■ It’s all in the fit, so a jacket’s shoulders, sleeves and chest all need to seamlessly hug the contours of your body without creasing (the mark of a tight suit). Unless you’re built like Jabba the Hutt, in which case consult your tailor to find a fit that suits your body best. ■ A jacket’s sleeves must be at least a half inch shorter than the cuff of your shirt. Most Indian men get this wrong and end up with longer sleeves. No need to fret though, a tailor can alter this. He’ll make a face and throw a fit, but it’s possible... slip him a hundred. ■ When you’re wearing a suit to a formal evening, you can play around with your tie-pocket square combo if you safely gauge the event you’re at. A plain tie can never be paired with a printed pocket-square, it’s always the other way around. ■ Lapel pins are all the rage abroad, but remember they have to be small and discreet, maybe a little funky to add character to a suit. ■ Never over-accessorise a suit, so if you’re wearing a tie-pin don’t opt for a collar pin (something that’s slowly making a comeback) or a lapel pin. Think less is more here. ■ There’s a general agreement in the West that black suits are reserved for funerals, weddings and Bar Mitzvahs, but in India we gents can’t get enough of them. Try a little to venture out, it won’t hurt... think blues, browns and a whole pantone card full of greys. ■ We don’t really need to say this, but please match all the leather on your body... black shoes go with a black belt and a black leather strapped watch, the same rule applies for browns. Don’t mix and match here. ■ If you’ve chosen to not put on a tie and leave your collar open, for the love of Christ don’t be sporting a white undershirt that’s peeking out at your neck. Go invest in some v-neck shirts or wifebeaters. If you’re opening more than your first button, make sure you’re well groomed enough to carry off the nonchalant, two button undone look... nobody wants to see a tourism ad for the Amazon on display. ■ Americans wear suits differently from the British, or the rest of Europe for that matter. When it comes to the Yanks, their cutting edge suit styles are all about slim ties and slim suits, while the Brits prefer the more traditional pin-striped, fitted suits, with their broad ties. Choose a look that matches you best, and stick to it, no one likes a flip flopper. IMRAN KHAN GETS IT RIGHT EVERY TIME Sporting all the trendy looks – Double-breasted, A velour suit that’s not OTT or gauche (who’d have thought!) and a deconstructed jacket TRENDING NOW Fitted suits Un-pleated trousers that end at the ankle Gingham printed shirts with solid suits Fitted double-breasted suits Striped and checked suits Unlined, deconstructed suits for semi-formal events NEVER-EVER! Bernie Mac, God rest his soul, was one of the best comedians, but his suits with their bad lapels and worse fits did him no good Even the President of America can once in a while go horribly wrong. Obama can’t pull off a beige suit at the White House press room of all places especially! Those shades are for garden tea parties in the day time... be event appropriate RAYMOND TREND REPORT 9 BANDHGALAS B andhgalas have slowly come to replace the suit and tuxedo for many occasions. Yes they have a traditional, patriotic feel to them and make for a great alternative if you don’t want to go in the direction of the suit, but make sure you get them right. A bandhgala for a formal event is very different from the ones a bridegroom would wear at his wedding, so ditch the jacquards and embroidered doozies for when you’re tying the knot, instead opt for classic elegance, it never fails! ■ Fit, again has to be cinched at the waist and not boxy like Natwar Singh’s jackets. ■ A Nehru collar is fine, but remember not to close the top. Leave it open and breathe a little. An easier alternative is a Chinese collar that allows your neck to be freer, it’s also trendier. ■ You can wear a shirt inside, like Sachin did recently, but leave it's collar open. An ideal shirt for a bandhgala would be a collar-less shirt. ■ If it’s a black bandhgala you’re donning, make sure you pair it with white trousers, and viceversa for a white bandhgala. Never wear white trousers with a white bandhgala; that just looks wrong! You can however do this for black, just make sure the trousers are fitted and not bulky. ■ If you’re going in for Jodhpuri pants (the one’s that flair at the hips and taper at the calves), make sure you keep the fabric tight at your calves and your flair at the hips subtle. There’s no need to look like a hot air balloon that's ready for lift-off. ■ Buttons here should not be the plasticky kind... they exemplify the India diplomat with a bad tailor. Splurge on gold or faux gold buttons. Silver and enamel work here too. If you don’t want to go down that route ask your tailor to design the jacket in such a way that an additional flap covers your buttons. It gives an illusion of slimming that does wonders for your waistline. 10 RAYMOND TREND REPORT The Nawab of Bollywood wears a trendy navy bandhgala (above), Rahul Khanna is the example of perfect Jodhpuri-dressing (left) ■ Now we usually advise against any open footwear when wearing anything formal, but if you really want to be patriotic and want that to translate to your footwear as well, go in for a pair of leather jootis that match your ensemble. Velvet loafers or plain black leather shoes work here too. If they’re slip-ons you finally go for, can the socks, it gives an Italian-gent-in-Rajasthan look that’s all the rage at the moment. ■ A bandhgala is generally pretty understated so glam up the whole thing with a loud pocket square. Think flowery and bright, something that ups the drama a bit. TRENDING NOW Chinese collars Velvet bandhgalas Jewelled buttons Slim fitted Jodhpuri trousers NEVEREVER! NATWAR SINGH We rest our case... closed collar, plastic buttons and a fit that would make Sir Pratap (the chap who invented the Jodhpuri) turn in his grave PHOTO: DABOO RATNANI WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT PHOTO: ROHAN SHRESTHA Arjun Kapoor affirms the fact that the bandhgala is catching on as the season's most coveted trend in evening wear RAYMOND TREND REPORT 11 WORK WEAR T he office is where we do business, where we go to war, where battles are fought and bodies left in the wake of victory. If you’ve had enough of the Sparta reference, take this from it, the workplace is where you have to look your best. It’s the difference between a promotion and a passover. That said, you have to figure out what atmosphere you work in... the corporate world dresses differently from those in creative fields. While if you’re lucky enough to be in the upper management of your company it really doesn’t matter where you are, the formula is simple – as formal as you can be, you’re the boss after all! CORPORATE OFFICEWEAR The gents from Mad Men usually get their officewear down pat (left), If the UK has its Prince Michael of Kent, his counterpart in Italy would have to be Gianni Agnelli, seen below sporting a classic woven tie WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT ■ If you’re in the business of boardrooms and meetings with chaps who inhabit the pages of Forbes’ rich list, its best that you are dressed to impress. Think suits, but not the garish bold ones. Subtlety goes a long way. ■ You can always throw in personal touches through the choice of your tie, cufflinks, tie-pins and socks. No shiny suits, stick to two-buttons with moderate lapels (not too big, not too small). ■ In India, we generally ditch the pocket squares when it comes to office-wear. But if you are a big fan of pocket art, make sure you keep the tone down. Solid colours work with just about any combination. Don’t go gung-ho on the folds, keep it simple with either a plain folded one (like American TV presenters) or just the normal shoved-without-a-care variety. Threepointed squares and others wonders are for formal events. 12 RAYMOND TREND REPORT TRENDING NOW Pin-striped suits Two-buttoned and one-button jackets Slim, non-pleated trousers Checked shirts Slim ties White collars and cuffs Personalised cufflinks Dressed entirely in Raymond, the model shows us the ideal suit fit Suit UP! Barney Stinson wears the quintessential American office suit perfect for contemporary work places ■ Shirts, whether they are bold, striped or chequered need to be picked keeping in mind your entire ensemble. Checks and stripes won’t work if you’re wearing a pin-striped suit, so go in for solid colours. A white collar and cuff always adds some sophistication to the look in case you want to go a notch up. ■ French cuffs on your shirt are great to impress everyone. They are tough to maintain and require cufflinks but are worth all the effort. Keep the cufflinks professional, none of those nude ladies in silver, British bulldogs or crossbones that are all the rage at the moment. ■ While you want to look trendy and updated even when it comes to office wear, it’s important to note that you are going to be in this garb for a long period of time. Always go in for a fit that’s comfortable, yet current. Slims are in, but don’t pick a suit you intend to wear to work that stifles you and demands that you stand poker-straight like a model all day long. The same goes for your shirt, leave at least a fingers breadth between your collar and your neck once it’s buttoned... asphyxia is a silent killer. ■ Shoes need to be shiny and leather, the lace-up kinds. Brogues and slightly pointed tips are in, while square-toed and the bulky rectangular boxy ones are out and should be forgotten. If you want to opt for slip-ons, please make sure they are formal enough and well-maintained. ■ The colour of your tie speaks louder than the print on it, so make sure you go in for something that’s just right. Silk wins hands down, though textured knitted ties are also a good option if you want to do something different. Contrast the tie to your shirt and never pick the same colour for both. Big paisleys and iridescent ties are for wedding singers and the most enthusiastic dancers at a baraat. ■ Go in for solid colours when it comes to your socks and never ever pick up the printed ones or the kinds that have multi-coloured stripes on them. Those are for your kids and can’t be worn past the age of nine. ■ If you own the company or are the BOSS MAN, ignore everything we’ve said above... you can wear anything your heart desires and get away with it (check out Roger Sterling from Mad Men). Luca Rubinacci NEVER-EVER! BORIS JOHNSON He may be the Mayor of London but, dressing well isn’t one of his strong suits (pun intended). It’s all in the fit Boris! RAYMOND TREND REPORT 13 CASUAL OFFICEWEAR WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT ■ No jeans! You might be working in the most liberal office, but unless you are a fashion photographer, a design-genius or some artyfarty type, you are not allowed to wear denims to work. We don’t care what Friday-dressing rules you have stuck in your head, jeans are for lunches on the weekends and for trips to the mall with family – not allowed at work. And if you still insist on putting them on, just make sure they’re dark – black or dark blue. ■ The same goes for T-shirts! You have got to be out of your mind if you think you can wear a T-shirt to work. This is where you earn your bread, not the beach and not your bedroom. Desi gents need to let this one go, even if they think they look like the coolest thing since the iPhone. If you really abhor full- Nacho Figueras shows how to do casual officewear with elan 14 RAYMOND TREND REPORT TRENDING NOW Casual fits Woven belts Sock-less loafers or moccasins Bold striped shirts sleeved shirts and are still addicted to T-shirts, go in for a compromise, the Polo shirt is acceptable in most circumstances. ■ A shirt and trouser or chinos are acceptable to the office. Since you’re not in a corporate workspace, playing around with stripes, coloured trousers and semi-formals is your prerogative, something your better paid counterparts in the boardrooms can’t afford. So enjoy the perk and experiment a little... a ‘little,’ we repeat. ■ You’ve got rid of the jacket and tie, but that doesn’t mean you drop all formalities. The trick to non-corporate dressing is to throw in one item of formalwear. A crisp white shirt with casual beige chinos, a black polo shirt with dark brown formal trousers... you get the gist. Think polo players being formal and lunch at a Hamptons club if you’re still confused. ■ You don’t need to be in lace-ups all the time now. Live a little and invest in a pair of loafers or slip-ons... moccasins, suede and even driving shoes can be opted for. Just make sure you splurge on this buy. A cheap pair of shoes can be recognised a mile away. ■ This is India, so you can basically wear linen all year round. If in doubt about the fabrics you can don, just make a mental note that they must be light and airy... the slightest hint of polyester and viscose can give even the most strong deodorant a run for its money. RAYMOND TREND REPORT 15 CASUAL WEAR T his is where you truly express yourself sans formality. Casual wear for men in India has come a long way from the clichéd jeans and T-shirt combo. Today we’re spoilt for choice with umpteen options out there, so make the most of them and learn how to accept trends beyond the cookie-cutter moulds. It really is impossible to list every single trend in casual wear for men, so here are a few we thought work well for you in our desi context. WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT ■ There’s not much that isn’t allowed when it comes to casual wear for men, but it’s still important to know the sell-by-date of your clothes. Jeans don’t last decades, contrary to popular belief. They fade, they start to fray at the edges and the style of their cut goes out of fashion every few years. Donate them when needed to those less fortunate. ■ The same goes for tees and polos. Make sure to do away with them once they’ve had a few too many tumbles in the washer. Just because you don’t have to make an effort when being casual doesn’t mean you don’t get the fit right. Always go in for trousers, chinos and denims that fit well. ■ Cuffs must end a little below the ankle and right before your shoe starts... you can go shorter, given the current trend, but longer is a big faux pas and looks plain shabby. Don’t fold the bottoms of your pants, get them altered instead. When they bunch up near the feet, it can make even the most style-forward TRENDS ■ Bohemian-chic The trends caught on pretty quickly all over the place... Beiber wears chambray pants (evolved from the harem pants seen on Ranveer here) almost everywhere he goes. The trick to this look is to not let yourself look like a time transported hippie from the 60s with dreadlocks on your head and ganja in your pockets, but to balance it out with a little bit of civilisation, like Mr Singh here has done with aplomb. We forgive him for his paisley tuxedo... ■ Stylish Grunge Becks is usually pretty cutting edge with his fashion and is one man who knows how to keep it current when it comes to formalwear. On his days off though, David Beckham usually goes in for an edgy grunge look from his wardrobe... think jeans, t-shirts and flannels, with Becks’ signature touches of ‘poshness’ (yes we meant for that reference to be there). Designer white keds and leather wrist bands with trinkets are very ‘in’ at the moment. 16 RAYMOND TREND REPORT gent look like a schlob. ■ Popping the collars of your shirt is only allowed when you’re drunk and in Ibiza. No self-respecting gent should do this unless you’re a kin of Mohammed Azharuddin or a rising Hindi soapstar. ■ Keep those keds clean, it takes only a few minutes of your day, a little soap water and an old rag will get rid of even the nastiest of stains, or at least better it. ■ Casual wear doesn’t mean shabby-wear... you can bump into anyone, think boss at the mall, that girl you’ve been trying to impress all those months at a Sunday lunch. Always be prepared and give a miss to those low hanging jeans and baggy contraptions, Dr Dre’s school of dressing is ‘out.’ ■ Preppy Scott Disick could be the poster child for preppy dressing for men. The Eastern seaboard trend, with its polo shirts and sailor stripes usually depicts a life of nonchalant affluence. Think suede driving shoes and loafers and tortoiseshell sunglasses while sipping on champagne at brunch. ■ Tee-totaler Zac Efron does the T-shirt and denim combo proud. The important thing to remember here is that you have to be lean enough to carry off a T-shirt... no one likes to see bulges on display and the tee is the most unforgiving piece of clothing a fat man can wear. Go in for coloured denims and chuck T-shirts after they’ve been used and abused. They make for excellent nightwear. NEVER-EVER! Yo Yo Honey Singh - This outfit doesn't deserve a comment from us. But you must see it so you know never to commit such a crime.... Ed Westwick was a fashion God, till the day he decided to put this shirt on and show the world this massive display of hevage... now he's just another mortal like anyone else RAYMOND TREND REPORT 17 Varun Dhawan gets it right when he puts on a pair of dark, fitted denims with a printed shirt, but gets it so wrong with his torn jeans, that make him look shorter, thanks to a tucked-out shirt. We don't like the tiny keds either... shabby! Ranbir Kapoor got it right with this dark pullover blazer and jeans, but his leather bomber jacket and shiny trousers clashed to make him look more like a character from Donny Brasco THE GOOD AND THE BAD H ere are moments when these usually sartorially gifted gents got it right, and some where they lost the plot and got it wrong Abhay Deol does the formal-casual look justice with this blue blazer and denim combo, but gets it awfully wrong with his white tee and denim look, thanks only due to his little hat... an accessory can destroy everything gents! 18 RAYMOND TREND REPORT Siddharth Malhotra looks chic in this white jumper and jeans get-up but looks equally shabby in the aged tee and shoddy keds ACCESSORIES WHAT’S AU COURANT BOW-TIES – The big, floppy variety are very fashionable right now for evening dressing, though if you are going in for a small-collared shirt a smaller bow-tie will have to do. Just make sure you don’t go in for the really slim bow-tie that looked good only on the gents from the 50s. If you’re a preppy dresser, coloured bow-ties can add oomph to your look... just make sure you are dandy enough to carry them off. Please, please go in for the tie-yourself bow-tie, it makes a huge difference and surpasses any clipon. The internet is full of some excellent videos on how to tie one, if you have doubts please use this diagram we’ve got here, it’s not rocket-science. THE BOW TIE RAYMOND TREND REPORT 19 ACCESSORIES TIES – Slim ties are what’s au courant now and broad ties are considered passé. That said, don’t pick up a tie that’s ribbon thin and looks like a shoe-string hanging from your collar. Stripes and subtle prints (classics) are perennials but paisleys here can work as well, in the right context of the event or workplace. Learn how to tie a tie properly and never shove the second tail into your shirt or fold it, everyone can make out you’ve been lazy. A tie should end right about where your navel sits, anything longer or shorter is a no-no. CUFFLINKS – Jewelled cufflinks are for big, fancy events, don’t go in for these for everyday wear. You might want to have something that’s funky and stylish when it comes to your cuffs, but keep them neutral and subtle for work wear and pull out all the punches when not in a professional environment. Tateossian and Dunhill have some great ones that can impress even the most erudite fashion scholar. 20 RAYMOND TREND REPORT BELTS – Monogrammed belts for men were a big thing a year back, but now they’re as good as dead. Woven leather or cloth, simple, plain belts are the way to go. Even if you’re after designer crafted and high-quality opt for the more subdued versions that are practical and not eye-catching. The belt divides your body into two, and for most there’s no real reason for this line of control to be the first thing that people notice. Striped polo belts work for casual wear well. SOCKS – Socks for men are usually low on our priority list of things to pay attention to. They’re those things you put on your feet and take off after a hard day’s work and chuck in the laundry basket. But to the discerning eye, the colour of your socks, their make, their quality can all be tell-tale signs of your personality. Never match your socks to your suit. If you’re going formal always make sure they’re at least two shades darker than what you’ve got on, and if you’re casual or a rule breaker, go in for colours. Enzo Ferrari loved his red socks, which he’d put on with a pair of black slacks and a plain white shirt. Go for bold colours, and if you’re really experimental wear unmatched socks which are all the trend at the moment. Polka dots are OK, but other graphic prints are out. With loafers that breathe well, just chuck the socks, that’s how the Italian uomos do it. LAPEL-PINS – Lapel pins are the new tie-pins. They add character to any suit jacket and can be mixed and matched with just about any look. They’re also a definite accessory to take your entire ensemble up a notch. Obama wears the US flag on his lapel and Tom Ford prefers what’s called a boutonniere, which is French-snob for highly expensive hand-crafted couture lapel-pin. You take your pick, and remember to go to town when it comes to choosing a pin, they get noticed immediately and make for great conversation starters with the ladies. RAYMOND TREND REPORT 21 COLOURS OF THE SEASON RED Burgundy and Red Very in at the moment, if Adrien Brody, Robert Pattinson and Kellan Lutz's red-carpet appearances are to be taken into consideration. A red jacket for day wear works, but sans red trousers 22 RAYMOND TREND REPORT GREY Light and Steel Grey - A fashion perennial for men's fashion, greys are in this season but in different hues, not your run-off-the-mill ash grey RAYMOND TREND REPORT 23