Patrimony Traditionnelle world Time

HOTEL WALDORF-ASTORIA
301 PARK AVENUE
212-751-9824
509 MADISON AVENUE
AT 53RD STREET
212-888-0505
800-CELLINI
NEW YORK, NY 10022
www.CelliniJewelers.com
Sapphires and Diamonds
from our exclusive collection
collections
14 A. LANGE & SÖHNE plays a sophisticated game of peek-
a-boo with the articulated dial of its latest “Pour le Mérite.”
18 AUDEMARS PIGUET flaunts the Millenary 4101’s inner
beauty with the revealing design of its inverted movement.
22 CARTIER defies gravity with the radically new regulating
system it invented for the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur.
56 JAEGER-LECOULTRE commemorates 80 years of the
Reverso with the first ultra-thin version of its iconic reversible case.
60PANERAI combines a new case design with its latest
in-house movement to create the Luminor 1950 3 Days.
30 CHOPARD celebrates the 15-year anniversary of its L.U.C
collection with fresh takes on several of the line’s most popular models.
68 PARMIGIANI FLEURIER embraces change with a
40DE BETHUNE leads an horological renaissance by introducing new materials and innovative techniques to watchmaking.
72 ROGER DUBUIS explores Monaco with a new collection that epitomizes the tiny principality’s alluring charms.
44 DEWITT blends iconic architecture and Art Deco design
to create its Twenty-8-Eight Regulator ASW Horizons.
76 ULYSSE NARDIN opens a window into the heavens with a
clock that tracks the movements of the Earth, Sun and Moon.
48 HUBLOT makes a splash with the Oceanographic 4000,
the first professional-grade dive watch in a carbon fiber case.
80 VACHERON CONSTANTIN accentuates innovation and
52 IWC emphasizes refinement with the latest additions to
its beloved Portofino and Portuguese collections.
84 ZENITH blazes a path to a new horological world with
the revolutionary Christophe Colomb.
wristwatch that converts into a fob watch and a table clock.
tradition with the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time.
features
8 LUXURY LANDMARK Cellini Jewelers exceeds expec-
tations in the world’s most competitive city with a timeless
collection of watches and jewelry that ranks among New York
City’s best.
34 PERSONALITY PROFILE One of the world’s foremost
custom engravers, J.C. Randell transforms bare metal into
exceptionally detailed micro-art.
62 CULINARY CAMEOS Discover the world of international flavors just around the corner as we travel Around the
World in Eighty Blocks.
88 CLOCKWISE A glossary of horological terms
Editor in Chief
Michael Graziadei
Art Director, Photo Director
Samantha Hickey
Managing Editor
Scott Hickey
Copy Editor
Rachel Young
Contributing Writers
Amy Cohen
Jack Forster
Meehna Goldsmith
Elise Nussbaum
Michael Thompson
Contributing Photographers
David Katz
Björg Magnea
For a complimentary subscription or for further information, Please call 8oo.CELLINI
www.CelliniJewelers.com
STATUS is an annual
publication by Cellini Jewelers
Copyright ©2011
Reproduction without
permission is prohibited
The Perfect Fit
Is there a perfect timepiece? The surprising answer is simply: Yes.
W
hat is it? Who makes it? The answers are as complex as the timepieces and the people who wear
them. Welcome to the ninth issue of Status, where
we will explore the world of art displayed on a wrist and
also help you discover your own perfect timepiece.
Since the beginning of horology, talented craftsman have
designed and created wonderful masterpieces that do everything from tell us the time of day, to show us the movements
of the Earth, Sun and Moon. In this issue, discover 15 historic
and emerging watchmakers that build on that vast heritage by
once again amazing us with their new creations. Our pages
are filled with watches that are works of art, both technically
and visually. More than just timekeepers, each is a reminder
that function and form can come together in a relatively small
space that we are able to carry around with us everyday.
In our lifestyle stories, learn how custom engraver
J.C. Randell creates the illusion of depth by transforming
bare metal into exceptionally detailed micro-art. Then travel
with us around the world in 80 blocks as we sample the best
of New York City’s international flavors.
We conclude once again with an extensive, illustrated
glossary that defines the watch components, complications
and functions discussed throughout this issue.
As always, we look forward to hearing your thoughts
about Status. If you would like more information about any of
the featured watches, please call us at 800-CELLINI or send
an email to [email protected]. You can also enjoy
the digital version of Status at www.CelliniJewelers.com.
Until then, we hope you enjoy exploring the latest offerings
from the world’s best watchmakers.
Michael Graziadei
Editor in Chief
EMPIRE
STATE
OF
MIND
BY ELISE
NUSSBAUM
New York
City is not
for the faint of
heart. The streets
teem with the most
successful people in the
world, and the city is notoriously tough on those who
don’t measure up. The next
time you hail a cab, the person getting out could very well
be an Oscar-winning actress
or the president of a Fortune 500
company.
This is the environment in which Cellini
Jewelers has thrived for more than
30 years, exceeding expectations in the
world’s most demanding city with an unsurpassed selection of sublime jewelry and rare
timepieces, all presented by a gracious staff of
experts dedicated to consummate service.
One-of-a-kind abalone shell bracelet accented with white diamonds,
multi-color sapphires, pink tourmalines and tsavorites in 18-karat gold
8
Photograph by David Katz, Digital Jewelry Photography
CELLINI JEWELERS
Photograph by Björg Magnea
Hotel Waldorf-Astoria
Exploring the Exquisite
The welcoming glow of Cellini’s Waldorf-Astoria boutique
exudes a deep appreciation for all things precious. Freestanding glass cabinets gleam with imaginatively designed, impeccably crafted jewelry creations organized by gemstone.
Diamonds of all colors populate one island, while another is reserved for the vibrant fire reflecting from their
white counterparts. Nearby, a rich assortment of gems and
pearls — assembled through the years from sources around
the world — are used to create handmade showpieces that
feature everything from Burmese rubies and Kashmir sapphires to South Sea pearls and alexandrite, the exceedingly
rare Russian gem whose color changes in natural light.
Among the latest additions is a one-of-a-kind bracelet
made with oval-shaped abalone shells. The natural contours
of the shell’s colorful iridescent nacre are accentuated by
flowing lines of blackened 18-karat gold, which are set with a
gorgeous combination of diamonds, multi-color sapphires,
pink tourmalines and tsavorites. “The mix of exotic materials
like blackened gold and abalone is definitely ahead of the
curve, but the details and craftsmanship give the piece a
timeless quality as well,” says Claudette Levy, the firm’s
jewelry buyer. “It really highlights what Cellini is all about
— exquisite jewelry designed to last a lifetime, whether it’s
traditional, trendsetting or somewhere in between.”
Stepping away from the jewelry collection, the curious explorer is transported to yet another world, one brimming with
the crème de la crème of the luxury watch world. The space is
lined with exhibition cases that house an unparalleled range of
mechanical timepieces from more than two dozen of the
world’s best-known and most-exotic watchmakers.
9
Cellini Jewelers
“We’re constantly looking for new and innovative watchmakers, but
we’re extremely selective about who we represent. Finding a brand that
produces unique watches isn’t enough. The watches — and the watch
company — must be built to last. Quality is foremost in everything we do at Cellini.”
From top: Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon
by Roger Dubuis, Calibre de Cartier Multiple
Time Zone by Cartier, DB28 by De Bethune
LEADING THE WAY
Leon Adams, Cellini’s founder and president, has always been passionate about haute
horlogerie. In 1977, it led him to open his first
showroom in the Waldorf-Astoria, where his
collection of hard-to-find timepieces struck a chord with a growing group
of American collectors, who were rediscovering the art of mechanical
watchmaking.
As Cellini’s reputation grew through the years, so did its collection,
which was the first in America to include brands like A. Lange & Söhne,
Audemars Piguet, Ludovic Ballouard, Maîtres du Temps and Roger Dubuis.
As proof of the company’s influential standing in the watchmaking world,
Cartier recently selected Cellini to be one of only two U.S. dealers authorized
to carry Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking Collection.
A veteran of countless watch fairs in Basel and Geneva, Adams has seen
trends come and go, deepening his perspective and sharpening his ability
to quickly separate the timely from the timeless. That keen eye, fueled by
his genuine excitement for the art of horology, is why watch collectors trust
Cellini.
“We’re constantly looking for new and innovative watchmakers, but
we’re extremely selective about who we represent,” he explains. “Finding a
brand that produces unique watches isn’t enough. The watches — and the
watch company — must be built to last. Quality is foremost in everything we
do at Cellini.”
10
Today, Cellini covers the spectrum of
haute horlogerie with a phenomenal collection
that appeals to all types of horological enthusiasts, from budding aficionados in search of
their first fine timepiece, to savvy collectors
who prize the extensive selection of rare
watches, the likes of which you will not find
anywhere else. “The depth of our collection
means you can find what you want, when you
want it,” Adams says. “That selection is what
sets us apart and the reason people keep
coming back.”
Photograph by Björg Magnea
Madison Avenue
Natural Radiance
At Cellini’s Madison Avenue boutique, light streams through
expansive windows, filling its open, modern interior with a
natural radiance. The showroom’s calming, neutral palette
softens the décor’s strong geometric symmetry, as does the
addition of chic, organic elements like a mohair-covered feature wall and display cases made with gorgeously grained African zebrawood. Not only do these aesthetic details give the
boutique its own distinct personality, they also ensure that every jewel and timepiece is shown to its best advantage.
The intimate space, opened in 1987, is home to an expertly curated collection that brings luxury to a human scale
and pace. Though behind glass, the jewelry and timepieces
seem to erase any barriers between them and their admirers
by sheer force of personality. The gems (both horological
and otherwise) project an air of approachability from their
eye-level perches on the wall behind the counters, coaxing
even the casual shopper to consider taking a natural or mechanical marvel in his or her hands.
On the rare occasion that a jewelry customer cannot find
their heart’s desire on Cellini’s shelves, a custom-made design
can always make their dreams come true. Cellini’s gemologists, designers and craftsmen combine expertise and artistry
to satisfy any request, from tailoring a bespoke piece to redesigning a treasured heirloom. “Whether you want to create
something new, or make something old new again, our collection and creativity make anything possible,” Levy says.
11
Pink Kasumiga pearls
and white diamonds
“Selecting a fine piece of jewelry or your first luxury watch is definitely a
process; you don’t just come in and buy it. Getting to know our customers
and understanding their expectations is key to assisting them in making
educated decisions. We take a great deal of satisfaction in helping our
clients make a decision that is best for them.”
12
Photograph by David Katz, Digital Jewelry Photography
Cellini Jewelers
Photograph by David Katz, Digital Jewelry Photography
Fancy color diamond
rings in platinum
THE PERFECT FIT
But merchandise is far from the only reason the most discerning connoisseurs opt for Cellini. A knowledgeable staff
at both locations provides impeccable service before, during
and after a purchase.
Cellini’s horological specialists live and breathe watches, and draw upon this wealth of knowledge to help each
watch lover find the perfect fit. For those enchanted instead
by shimmering works of art, Cellini’s jewelry experts put a
world of exquisite beauty at your fingertips. The experience
they provide puts the emphasis on the client’s needs.
While many customers know exactly what they want,
some are uncertain or hesitant. It is for them that the Cellini
staff shines brightest. “Selecting a fine piece of jewelry or your
first luxury watch is definitely a process; you don’t just come in
and buy it. Getting to know our customers and understanding
their expectations is key to assisting them in making educated
decisions,” says Sotero Bernal, manager of the Madison Avenue boutique. “We take a great deal of satisfaction in helping
our clients make a decision that is best for them.”
Irresistible jewels, sophisticated horology, inviting venues and dedicated staff — it’s no wonder that after nearly
three and a half decades Cellini continues to be one of the
most respected and successful boutiques of its kind. In this
wildly competitive city, where storefronts, skylines and styles
change as often as the weather, Cellini’s longevity is a testament to the power of an irreplaceable experience. ¨
13
A. Lange & Söhne
Chain Reaction
By Scott
Hickey
A. Lange & Söhne is celebrated for its devotion to precision horology, a principle that has guided
the German firm’s production of manufacture movements throughout its history. In recent years
however, the company has also earned praise for introducing adventurous twists to its refined designs.
T
he Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” embodSnapping to Attention
ies both traditions with a caliber dedicated to achievA. Lange & Söhne safeguards accuracy yet again by including
ing optimal accuracy, and an intriguing dial with an
a tourbillon, a system designed to counteract rate deviations
articulated section that hides from view when not in use.
caused by gravity’s effect on the balance spring. Going even
The watch is the fourth, and most recent, addition to
further, the company has equipped the tourbillon with a
A. Lange & Söhne’s superlative “Pour le Mérite” collection.
patented stop-seconds system that halts the mechanism
Introduced when the firm was re-launched in 1994, the
during setting, enabling the watch to be synchronized to
line exclusively showthe second.
cases timepieces with
To make certain
a fusée-and-chain, a
none of this precision
system used for centuis lost in translation,
ries to regulate energy
the company uses a
released by the mainclassic regulator-style
spring.
display that indicates
The modern verthe minutes, hours
sion featured in the
and seconds on sepaRichard Lange Tourrate subdials. This is
billon “Pour le Mérite”
where A. Lange &
resembles a tiny bicySöhne tucks what is
cle chain, albeit one
perhaps the watch’s
with microscopic links
most fascinating
that weigh .00029
feature.
grams. Looking
The left side of
through the watch’s
the hour index reclear back during
mains hidden half of
winding, one can
the day, offering a betMade entirely at A. Lange & Söhne’s workshop, the hand-wound movement uses
clearly see the chain
ter view of the tourbila fusée-and-chain transmission that helps the watch maintain a steady rate
wrap around the cirlon below. At 6 o’clock
throughout its 36-hour power reserve.
cumference of the
the concealed section
spring barrel. As it
snaps into place to
unwinds, so does the chain, which then rewinds itself on the
complete the display, only to disappear once again at 12
nearby spool-shaped fusée. This arrangement contributes to
o’clock when its services are no longer required. This game
the watch’s steady rate, regardless of whether the mainspring
of mechanical peek-a-boo injects a sense of playfulness to
is fully wound or nearly diminished.
the watch’s earnest quest for chronometric excellence.
14
Limited to 100 pieces in
platinum, the Richard Lange
Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite”
features an hour display with
a pivoting segment that snaps
into view only when it’s needed.
A. Lange & Söhne
Striking a Chord
Making a striking movement —
one that indicates the time
audibly at set intervals — is
an extremely complex
and time-consuming
endeavor. A. Lange
& Söhne overcame
this tremendous
challenge this year
when it unveiled its
first-ever striking
mechanism.
Tony de Haas,
who is in charge of
the firm’s product
development, explains:
“After developing the Zeitwerk, which is a very special
watch for Lange in terms of
design and technique, we wanted to make a complication on
this movement. It had to be a
special complication that has
nothing to do with classic complications. So the idea for the
Striking Time was born.”
The remarkable movement, which automatically chimes
a low pitch for the hours and a high pitch for the quarterhours, debuted in the Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time.
The company integrated the mechanism seamlessly into
its award-winning Zeitwerk concept by transforming the
striking components into design elements, using the gongs
to form an acoustical frame around the dial’s edge. Even the
two hammers — visible below the Zeitwerk’s signature
jumping hour and minute apertures — straddle
the line between decorative and functional.
Much the same could be said of the
watch’s caliber, whose advanced capabilities are cloaked beneath an extensive veil of gorgeous embellishment.
In spite of its delicate looks, however,
the movement is capable of generating the tremendous amount of torque
needed at the top of the hour, when it
must simultaneously change all three
numeral discs in the digital display, and
also swing the hammer with enough force
to sound the gong.
16
Pride of Saxony
When Ferdinand Adolph Lange
started his business in the German state of Saxony more than
165 years ago, his beautiful and
precise timepieces redefined
performance for the country’s watchmaking industry and transformed
Glashütte from a mining town into an horological powerhouse.
In 1994, to honor
his influential legacy,
A. Lange & Söhne created the Saxonia, a watch
that projects its founder’s
Saxon values through its elegant simplicity and impeccable
craftsmanship. This year, the firm
redesigned the Saxonia by expanding its diameter and slimming its profile. One of the first to
show off this revamped look is the
new Saxonia Dual Time.
What makes this model’s second time zone feature so
appealing is how easy it is to use. When traveling, pushers on
the left side adjust the time either forward or backward.
Meanwhile, the distinctive blued hand continues to display
the home time in conjunction with a 24-hour display that
serves as a day/night indicator.
Clockwise from top: The Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time, the firm’s
first striking watch, comes in white gold with a
black dial, or as a 100-piece limited edition
in platinum with a silver dial.
Available in white or rose gold, the
Saxonia Dual Time includes two
pushers that adjust the time either
forward or backward. When
traveling, the blue hand indicates
the home time.
The manufacture movement that
powers the Zeitwerk Striking Time’s
various functions also features
magnificent hand decoration, including
an engraved balance cock.
Introduced last year, the Homage to F. A. Lange
Collection encompasses a trio of extraordinary
limited editions: ( from left) the Lange 1 Tourbillon,
Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite” and the 1815 Moonphase.
Lange Legacy
Before honoring its regional roots with the newly redesigned
Saxonia, the company introduced the Homage to F. A. Lange
Collection last year to commemorate the 165-year anniversary
of the opening of its original manufactory in Glashütte.
The collection reflects Lange’s rich legacy as a watchmaking pioneer with three exceptional complicated timepieces: the Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite” features a tourbillon and a chronograph with rattrapante; Lange 1 Tourbillon
combines a large date with a tourbillon; and the 1815 Moonphase offers an exceptionally accurate lunar display.
Despite the technical differences, all three limited editions share the same case metal, a unique honey-colored
gold developed exclusively for the company. Along with its
lustrous patina, this precious metal also provides a rugged
shell that is twice as hard as other gold alloys.
work in harmony like a mechanized symphony. It is an experience that strikes a deep chord among aficionados and
novices alike.
Even more than a decade after its debut, the Datograph’s
groundbreaking movement remains a beacon of horological
virtuosity, much like the company that created it. ¨
Presented in either platinum or rose gold, the Datograph’s name
is an amalgamation of the watch’s main features, its large
date display and innovative
chronograph movement.
Shining Example
When A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Datograph in 1999, it
quickly became the yardstick by which other chronographs
were measured. Its landmark movement was the world’s first
to combine a flyback column-wheel chronograph, jumping
minute hand and large date.
But one look through the clear caseback, however, and
any rational talk about innovation and patents goes out the
window. Emotion takes over watching the springs and levers
17
Audemars Piguet
The Millenary 4101’s offset
dial provides an optimal view of its
automatic movement, which Audemars
Piguet designed so the functional elements,
normally hidden, are visible on the surface.
The firm offers the watch in either rose gold
(above) or stainless steel (opposite).
18
Shape of Things
To Come
By Scott
Hickey
Audemars Piguet makes a persuasive case
against the virtues of modesty with
the Millenary 4101, an innovative timepiece designed
specifically to flaunt
its inner
beauty.
T
o pull off this revealing
look, Audemars Piguet’s
historic manufacture in
Le Brassus devised a new movement that, quite literally, turns watchmaking tradition on its head by inverting
the caliber’s orientation. As a result, functional elements normally
relegated to the back of the watch rise to the surface where they form the
watch’s aesthetic foundation.
The Millenary 4101’s escapement typifies this unusual union of form and function.
In the vast majority of watches, the regulating
organ’s hypnotic oscillations can only be observed
from the back, when the watch is off the wrist. Here,
it occupies a place of pride on the dial where it can be
enjoyed anytime.
The vertical bridge that bisects the escapement
serves a dual purpose. Its primary role is to help protect
the escapement from the everyday shocks a watch experiences. More subtly, its curvature accentuates the distinctive
oval shape of the Millenary case, a form Audemars Piguet introduced in 1995.
Inside that sensual elliptical frame, the firm maximizes the
movement’s exposure by choosing a small round dial for the hours
and minutes. The offset display is unobtrusive, and yet its engraved
relief Roman numerals remain eminently legible thanks to the dial’s
clever use of textural contrasts. That juxtaposition of finishing techniques
is echoed on the bridges, where circular graining, snailing and Côtes de
Genève work together to imbue the movement with a sense of depth.
With its combination of multi-level design and technical daring, the
Millenary 4101 carves out a unique position in Audemars Piguet’s collection alongside such cutting-edge timepieces as 2006’s
Tradition d’Excellence No. 5 and 2007’s Millenary
with Deadbeat Seconds.
19
Audemars Piguet
THE ESSENTIALS
After demonstrating its finesse for extroverted
design with the Millenary 4101, Audemars
Piguet takes the opposite tack, embracing
horological purity with the Jules Audemars
Extra-Thin.
Recognizing that simplicity is the
ultimate form of sophistication, the
design abstains from superfluous
gestures and focuses exclusively
on what is essential, achieving a
truly rare level of elegance.
That commitment to paring
away the extraneous extends to
the Extra-Thin’s movement. Introduced in 1967 and refined through
the years, caliber 2120 ranks among
the world’s thinnest, measuring 2.45mm
thick, which is less than the height of two
dimes stacked on top of one another.
One technique used to achieve this
slender profile was the elimination of the ball
bearing mechanism commonly used to ensure
a winding rotor rotates in both directions. The
Jules Audemars Extra-Thin achieves the same
uninhibited rotation with a series of jewels
mounted into the mainplate that act as bearings and enable the rotor to swing freely. As the
weight spins, it powers the mainspring, which
is capable of storing enough tension to
power the watch for 40 hours, an impressive accomplishment for a
movement this thin.
To complement its intelligent design, the firm’s
workshop adds decorative
flourishes to the winding
weight, which is forged in
gold and skeletonized extensively so that it forms the
brand’s initials. In a manner
that is pleasantly unexpected,
Audemars Piguet finds a way to express the watch’s extraordinary technical and
aesthetic qualities with something as ordinary as a rotor.
MASTER OF ALCHEMY
Audemars Piguet ushered in a new era of
watchmaking in 1972 when it unveiled the
Royal Oak, the first stainless steel luxury
timepiece. Two decades later, in 1992, the
firm presaged another revolution in horology with the introduction of its Royal Oak Offshore. Its 42mm diameter,
unheard of at the time, launched an
aesthetic trend toward oversized
watches that has dominated
watchmaking for more than
15 years.
Beyond its pioneering size,
the Offshore — as its called by its
many devotees — has also emerged
to become the ultimate expression of
Audemars Piguet’s passion for material
innovation. During its rise, the Royal Oak
Offshore has modeled an ever-evolving
range of case materials, becoming the first
to use PVD coating in 1999 with the End
of Days Offshore and the first with a forged
carbon case in 2007 with the Alinghi Team
Offshore.
For its latest additions to the collection,
Audemars Piguet once again plays alchemist,
mixing various materials to create three new
variations of its venerable Royal Oak Offshore
Chronograph that feature oversized
(44mm) cases and clear exhibition
backs.
The power trio includes
models with cases made of
rose gold, stainless steel or
forged carbon. Despite the
distinct visual personalities conferred by these very
different metals, one common element — black ceramic — links them together.
Virtually scratchproof, Audemars
Piguet uses the material in each watch
for the crown and signature octagonal bezel.
The common thread continues uninterrupted inside the
The epitome of elegant restraint, the Jules Audemars Extra-Thin combines timeless appeal with a slender case made from either white or rose
gold. Its movement (Caliber 2120) ranks among the world’s thinnest, measuring 2.45mm.
20
cases, which are equipped with identical automatic chronograph movements. Userfriendly, immaculately finished and exceedingly reliable, these calibers enliven the latest
members to join this iconic collection.
CONCEPTUAL THINKER
To celebrate the 30-year anniversary of the
Royal Oak in 2002, Audemars Piguet dared to
re-imagine that groundbreaking timepiece
for a new generation with the first Royal Oak
Concept. It captured imaginations thanks to
its futuristic take on the Royal Oak form and
its Alacrite case, a high-performance material pioneered by the automotive field. The
watch’s follow-up, the Royal Oak Offshore
Carbon Concept, appeared six years later and
featured a case made of forged carbon.
In 2011, on the eve of the Royal Oak’s 40year anniversary, Audemars Piguet is at it
once again with the Royal Oak Concept
GMT Tourbillon. Presented in a
bead-blasted titanium case with
a black ceramic bezel, the
watch continues the Concept
collection’s young traditions by including a tourbillon positioned unconventionally at 9 o’clock, as
well as display that indicates the crown’s position
(Heures for setting, Neutre
for neutral, and Remontoir
for winding). For this new
model, Audemars Piguet
adds a dual time zone function
indicated on the right side by a 12hour disc, which can be adjusted
quickly using the nearby ceramic pusher.
While the Concept GMT’s ultramodern look
is undoubtedly light years away from 1875, the year
Edward Piguet and Jules Audemars founded the company, its pioneering
spirit most certainly fulfills the duo’s ambition to craft fine timepieces with
imaginative complications. ¨
Clockwise from top: Three new versions of the groundbreaking Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
underscore Audemars Piguet’s reputation as an innovator in watchmaking materials, mixing
black ceramic elements with cases made from forged carbon, stainless steel or rose gold (not shown).
As the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon joins the elite ranks of the Concept collection, it is the only member cased in titanium and the first
to offer a second time zone function.
21
Cartier
Speed
Of Light
By Scott
hickey
‘That’s one small step for a watch, one giant leap for watchmaking.’ Last year, Cartier launched
the tourbillon into orbit with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon, one of 2010’s most talkedabout watches. This year, the Parisian firm moves light years beyond the tourbillon with the
Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur.
W
hile it’s certainly possible to appreciate the
watch’s unique virtues solely on a visual level, it’s
helpful to understand what a tourbillon does to
fully recognize how Cartier’s Astrorégulateur movement
transcends the classic complication.
Defying Gravity Ever since the tourbillon was patented in 1801, watchmakers
have used the mechanism to counteract the loss of accuracy
that occurs when gravity pulls the watch’s flexible balance
spring askew. The tourbillon prevents these rate deviations
by mounting the spring — along with the escapement and
balance wheel — in a rotating cage. Its constant motion diffuses gravity’s negative effect and results in improved chronometric precision.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur presents a radically different solution to this age-old challenge in the form
of Calibre 9800 MC, a new movement produced exclusively at
the Manufacture Cartier workshops. To neutralize gravity,
Cartier relocated the watch’s spinning micro-rotor to the dial
and then, in an unprecedented move, combined the rotor,
balance and escapement into one mechanism.
The rotor is designed to be heaviest in the middle,
guaranteeing that it — and the other components — will
always return to the same vertical position regardless of the
watch’s position. This made the balance spring’s movement
predictable, allowing watchmakers to calibrate it so it will
maintain the constant center of gravity needed to deliver a
precise rate.
This revolutionary system, however, presented a new
challenge. In an automatic movement, the wearer’s random
actions spin the rotor to wind the caliber. Because the “pendular” seconds display is now part of the rotor, it is also subject to the same rapid and unpredictable forces. To ensure
the second hand’s performance remains unaffected, Cartier
developed an extraordinary dual differential system that allows it to move forward consistently along the seconds track
even while the rotor is spinning.
Limited to 50 pieces worldwide, the Rotonde de Cartier
Astrorégulateur is presented in a stately 50mm case made of
niobium-titanium. Exceptionally light and durable, the alloy
is used to make superconductor wire for the Large Hadron
Collider, the particle accelerator located, fittingly, beneath
the Swiss and French border.
Facing page: The Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur’s groundbreaking movement counteracts gravity’s negative effects by combining the
micro-rotor, balance and escapement into one rotating mechanism. Produced exclusively at Cartier’s manufacture, the Astrorégulateur is
presented in a 50mm case made of niobium-titanium, an alloy that is both durable and lightweight.
23
Cartier
The innovative Astrotourbillon movement boasts a
groundbreaking tourbillon that orbits the dial
once every 60 seconds, doubling as a
captivating seconds hand. This feat
of mechanical engineering is
available for the first time in
the Calibre de Cartier case
as a limited edition of
100 pieces.
Astro Encore
After its introduction in the classically
styled Rotonde de Cartier case last year,
the Astrotourbillon movement returned in
2011 with a new, sportier look. The Calibre de
Cartier Astrotourbillon showcases the original movement
in a case distinguished by its prominent lugs, high crown
shoulders and an angled bezel with interior fluting.
While both versions measure 47mm in diameter, the
Calibre de Cartier Astrotourbillon’s case is made exclusively
from titanium and weighs considerably less than the original, a difference that can be felt when wearing the watch.
The case’s athletic masculinity enhances the Astrotourbillon’s decidedly technical nature, which includes a tourbillon unlike any other. For this watch, the firm re-imagined the
“whirlwind” mechanism, transforming its traditional
cage into an x-shaped strut that rotates on the watch’s central, vertical axis. The balance and escapement are exposed at
one end of this crosspiece and can be seen orbiting the
watch’s dial once a minute as a seconds hand.
There’s something telling — and very Cartier — about
the demure nature of the design. Rather than over-expose
this brilliant feat of engineering, Cartier chose instead to
reveal only what was essential — the orbiting tourbillon —
and cloak the rest behind the kind of traditional craftsmanship it has refined for more than a century. It is a deft move
that heightens the watch’s magic and leaves enthusiasts
wanting more.
24
Around the World in 24 Clicks
Shifting its focus away from the tourbillon, Cartier presented its unique interpretation of the world time
complication this year with the Calibre de Cartier
Multiple Time Zone.
Devised at the firm’s manufacture in La Chauxde-Fonds, Switzerland, the watch’s straightforward design enables a traveler to quickly adjust the main display to a new time zone.
Simply pressing the rocker above the crown
moves the time ahead one hour. It also advances a disc listing 24 reference cities to the
correct location, which is displayed discreetly through a window on the side of the case. In fact, two cities appear simultaneously in the opening, a twist that allows the movement to
also reflect seasonal time changes. During the five months of
summer, the destination city is read from the top line, while
the bottom line is used for the remainder of the year.
This concise arrangement avoids the muddled design
that plagues so many world time watches, which often pack
the dial with the names of 24 (and sometimes more) cities.
The Multiple Time Zone’s uncluttered layout leaves plenty of
open space to echo the design motifs shared by other members of the Fine Watchmaking Collection, particularly the
dial’s engaging depth of field. To create this layered look,
designers stack an open-worked lattice featuring the hours
and minutes on top of a base decorated with a fine web
of guilloché.
Amid this textural interplay, the dial opens to reveal two
of the watch’s key functions. The first displays the home
time on a 12-hour arc using a sun-shaped pointer
for daytime hours and a moon-shaped pointer
for nighttime. The second function is
something new to watchmaking. It automatically calculates the time difference between the home and
destination cities, displaying
the results on the large retrograde indicator at the bottom of the dial. Call it, if
you will, a jet-lag indicator.
Equally helpful and
handsome, the Calibre de
Cartier Multiple Time Zone
serves as a steady wingman on
travels both near and far.
From top: When traveling, the Calibre de
Cartier Multiple Time Zone shows local time
on the main dial and home time on the
12-hour arc. The retrograde display indicates
the difference between these two time zones.
Calibre 9909 MC automatically factors in
seasonal time changes. During summer months,
the destination city is read from the top line, while the
bottom line is used the rest of the year.
25
Cartier
The Bare Essentials
While Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking Collection may garner more
boldface headlines for its mechanical wizardry, they only tell
half the story. Indeed, the timeless artistry expressed consistently throughout the collection is equally vital and speaks directly to the firm’s legendary élan.
Cartier drew upon this command of both form and
function to create the collection’s ongoing series of
skeletonized movements. The technique found a new
home this year in one of the company’s most beloved
cases with the Pasha Skeleton Flying Tourbillon.
The movement, which earned the Geneva
Seal for its superior craftsmanship, has been
skeletonized extensively, leaving behind only
the bare minimum. Despite the absence of
a traditional dial, the watch remains exceedingly legible thanks to the bridges,
which have been cut into the shape of
the Pasha’s signature Art Deco-inspired
Arabic numerals. The design leaves little to the imagination by offering revealing views of everything from the
open-worked mainspring barrel to the
flying tourbillon.
Housed in a 42mm white gold case
and released in a limited edition of 100 pieces, the Pasha Skeleton Flying Tourbillon’s
beauty confirms that in watchmaking, much
like conversation, brevity is the soul of wit.
Limited to 100 pieces worldwide, the Pasha Skeleton Flying Tourbillon’s
bridges are cut into the shape of Arabic numerals, revealing the
intricacies of the flying tourbillon and the delicate craftsmanship
of the Geneva Seal-certified movement.
26
Modern Interpretation
Compelling design unfolds like a good story that reveals its twists and
turns little by little. The masculine Calibre de Cartier epitomizes this
notion with a dynamic look that demands immediate attention
with its bold lines, but then holds the viewer’s gaze with its
refined details.
The watch’s signature case, introduced in 2010, measures 42mm in diameter and is satin-brushed except for
polished accents like the bezel and crown. Exposed
screw heads on the crown shoulder and lugs, together with the bezel’s serrated interior, add a subtle industrial edge to the sophisticated exterior.
In much the same way the dial reflects a modern interpretation of the firm’s aesthetic values,
the automatic movement it conceals provides a
contemporary reading of Cartier’s technical abilities. Produced at its manufacture, the 1904-PS MC
includes a date function and is equipped with a
stop-seconds system, which makes it possible to set
the watch to the second.
To enhance the watch’s sporty character, Cartier
now offers the Calibre de Cartier on a link bracelet that
mirrors the case’s contrasting finishes.
Following its 2010 debut, the Calibre de Cartier
returned this year with a new matching bracelet.
Available in stainless steel or rose gold and stainless
steel, the 42mm case houses an automatic movement
produced exclusively at the Cartier Manufacture.
27
Cartier
Discovering New Dimensions Cartier revisited the Ballon Bleu this year, adding a new chapter
to one of its biggest success stories. Originally introduced
in 2006, the collection has rapidly grown in popularity
since its debut.
Cartier boldly explores new dimensions
with the Extra-Flat Ballon Bleu, a watch
whose slender lateral profile measures
slightly thicker than 7mm. To put that
into perspective, the case is roughly
the same height as the fluted crown
used to wind the watch’s mechanical movement.
In contrast, the case diameter measures a full 46mm, making it one of the largest Ballon
Bleu models. The generous proportion enhances the decorative
themes that unify the line, including the crown protector used to
shield the blue sapphire-topped crown
that inspired the Ballon Bleu name.
The rose and white gold versions of
the Extra-Flat Ballon Bleu both come with
a silvered opaline dial embellished with
an intricate pattern of guilloché. Cartier also
unveiled a platinum version with a scintillating
blue dial that is available as part of a limited and
numbered series of 199 pieces.
28
Cartier offers the Extra-Flat Ballon Bleu in
either rose gold or as a limited edition of
100 pieces in platinum with a blue dial.
The new Délices de Cartier collection sparkles with a
variety of diamond options: ( from left) unadorned
rose gold, white gold with brilliants on the dial and
case, and rose gold with a single row.
Full Tilt
Cartier has always played the role of visual provocateur with
its watchmaking by tapping into the intrinsic power of shapes
to elicit impassioned emotional responses. The maison has
elevated geometry to an art form through the years with both
angled and curved figures — the square Santos (the first
wristwatch for men), rectangular Tank, tonneau-shaped Tortue and the oval Baignoire. The fact that all of these models
remain a vital part of its collection today confirms Cartier’s
impeccable instincts.
The tradition continues this year with the Délices de
Cartier, a new collection of women’s jewelry watches that is
immediately recognizable by its skewed oval case. The design represents an audacious, modern vision of the classic
Baignoire, says Arnaud Chastaingt, who helped create the
Délices de Cartier case.
“I think the watch is, above all, a beautiful adventure,”
he explained in a recent interview. “Its shape looks a little bit
like a paper-wrapped candy. And the bracelet has a grain-ofrice-like pattern, which twists around the dial and extends to
the rest of the watch.”
The case’s sinuous lines swirl around the edge of the dial like
two rivers that culminate at opposite points, where they form
lugs that flow seamlessly into either a matching bracelet or a
brushed canvas strap.
While the case’s eccentric angle is a feast for the eyes, it
does not come at the expense of comfort. In fact, Cartier designed the Délices de Cartier’s curved silhouette to warmly
embrace a woman’s wrist. To ensure a natural feel for different sized wrists, the case comes in three sizes: small, large
and extra large.
Along with different dimensions, the collection also
provides a multitude of luxurious choices, ranging from an
unadorned rose gold model to a breathtaking haute joaillerie
option with a diamond-pavéd case and bracelet. Between
these voluptuous antipodes, Cartier offers models with one
or two rows of diamonds, as well as a magnificent white gold
version with a fully pavéd dial.
With its elegant contours and precious sparkle, the
Délices de Cartier collection combines two of the firm’s specialties to create a singular vision of femininity. ¨
29
Chopard
Inner
Strength
By Scott
Hickey
After more than 150 years, Chopard remains deeply committed to nurturing the hands at the heart of watchmaking.
From technical innovators to decorative artists, few in high
horology can match the extensive range of specialized artisans working at the independent firm’s workshops in
Geneva and Fleurier, Switzerland and Pforzheim, Germany.
A
nd while many of the skills associated
with watch and jewelry making are
rooted firmly in the past, they still provide a powerful source of inspiration for Chopard’s future, says Karl-Friederich Scheufele,
who shares the family-run company’s presidency with his sister, Caroline
Gruosi-Scheufele.
collection, a line produced exclusively at its manufacture in Fleurier. Taking its
name from the initials of the company’s founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the
L.U.C collection has blossomed since its debut to include many of watchmaking’s most technically demanding movements, including tourbillons,
repeaters, perpetual calendars and chronographs.
To celebrate the L.U.C collection’s 15-year anniversary in 2011, Chopard
expanded its formidable in-house repertoire with new
versions of several acclaimed models,
“In our production
process, traditional crafts
coexist with ultramodern machines and equipment,” Karl-Friederich
explains. “These crafts and methods are indeed a source of inspiration, but together
with today’s technology, they can be
enhanced and creative opportunities, as a
result, are immense.”
One of these core skills — complicated
watchmaking — took on a new significance
in 1997, when Chopard introduced the L.U.C
simultaneously underscoring the
line’s dynamic range while also providing the company’s craftsmen with worthy
canvases on which to express their artistry.
HOROLOGICAL HORSEPOWER
The first is the L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon, a remarkably detailed watch
that evokes the firm’s longstanding passion for classic auto racing.
This year, Chopard introduces a vivid shade of red to replace the black originally used for the L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon’s numerals and markers. Because there is no dial on which to affix these figures, a skilled hand is required
to engrave them — in reverse — directly onto the back of the sapphire crystal.
From top: A watchmaker assembles the L.U.C Calibre 1TRM. The finished movement can be seen through L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon’s caseback.
30
The latest version of the Engine One Tourbillon
features red numerals and markers engraved
directly onto the back of the sapphire crystal.
Chopard is limiting production of this titanium
model to 100 pieces.
Chopard
Beneath this crystal “hood” revs the
watch’s motor, a tourbillon movement
crafted at Chopard’s manufacture. Its unusual oblong shape is slightly smaller
than the space inside the titanium
case, leaving a small gap between
the mechanism and the inner case.
While it may appear to be suspended in mid-air, the movement is
mounted securely to the case — like
a motor to the chassis — using
shock-absorbing blocks.
The automotive motif is inescapable on the dial as well, where vertical
lines machined into the movement plate
suggest the cooling fins typical of an engine’s cylinder head cover. Between these
lines, the tourbillon’s blurred oscillations
evoke a spinning radiator fan, while the power
reserve display convincingly approximates a
dashboard’s fuel gauge.
white porcelain-type dial.
The traditional design may evoke the past,
but it conceals a new automatic movement that is thoroughly modern in
its construction. Developed and
produced exclusively by Chopard, the caliber is a certified
chronometer whose high level
of precision has been independently verified by the COSC.
The L.U.C 1937 Classic’s ability
to respect the past while moving
forward cleverly brings to life the story
that inspired the watch’s name. It was
1937 when the founder’s grandson —
Paul-André Chopard — left the firm’s original workshop in the Jura Mountains to
establish the company in Geneva. Thanks to
his leap of faith, Chopard has flourished in
Switzerland’s watchmaking capital for seven
decades and counting.
LASTING IMPRESSION
For the brand’s 150-year anniversary in 2010, Chopard refined the
design code that unifies its entire L.U.C collection with several
understated changes. This year, the L.U.C Quattro adopts that
new look, combining Chopard’s timeless élan with one of the
firm’s most impressive horological achievements.
Seven years after its debut, the groundbreaking
L.U.C Quattro remains a marvel of modern engineering. Its movement — which has earned two patents
— is the first in the world equipped with four winding
barrels stacked two-by-two in a unique configuration
that is capable of generating nine days of reserve
power. To achieve this remarkable feat of longevity,
each barrel contains a mainspring that measures more
than 18 inches long, which translates into more than six
feet when all four mainsprings are stretched end to end.
To enhance the L.U.C Quattro’s new design elements,
it now comes in a 43mm case, expanding the original’s
39mm diameter. Despite the increase, the watch maintains
its graceful sense of proportion while benefiting from additional room for its indicators.
LEAP OF FAITH
Chopard’s L.U.C 1937 is reborn this year as the L.U.C 1937 Classic.
Presented in a 42mm stainless steel case, this new version of the
refined dress watch comes with either a satin-brushed silver or
32
Top: Along with several
aesthetic changes, the
newly redesigned
L.U.C Quattro now
comes in a
larger, 43mm,
case. The
manufacture
movement,
finished to the
highest standards, has
earned the prestigious
Geneva Seal.
Left: Now available with
either a white or silver
dial, the stainless steel
L.U.C 1937 Classic
combines Chopard’s gifts
for understated elegance and
precision watchmaking.
BUILT FOR SPEED
Chopard returns its focus to the automotive world with the Classic Racing
Superfast Chrono Split Second, a watch with so many vehicular flourishes it
looks as though it may drive away at any moment.
No doubt, the sporty strap would provide adequate traction. Made of
natural rubber, its style is reminiscent of the Dunlop Racing tires that carried many a driver to victory lane in the 1960s. Even the locking crown
appears to be a tiny steering wheel fashioned from a combination of
molded rubber and steel coated in black Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC).
But the mechanical particulars are what truly define this limited edition Superfast model, specifically the COSC-certified automatic movement, which boasts a split-seconds chronograph. One of horology’s most
challenging complications to produce, it enables the wearer to measure the
duration of split times — events that begin but do not end together.
Above: Limited to 1,000 pieces worldwide,
the Classic Racing Superfast Chrono Split
Second is presented in a 45mm stainless steel
case coated in black DLC.
Left: To streamline production, Chopard
produces its own gold alloys at the company’s
in-house foundry in Meyrin.
ROYAL TREATMENT
As Chopard pays tribute to the important contributions made by its specialized artisans
this year, it’s fitting to conclude with the Imperiale, a ladies watch that distills many of
the crafts Chopard cultivates at its workshops.
Redesigned last year, the updated Imperiale offers a more sculpted outline, which
is articulated elegantly by the antique column-shaped lugs. This year, Chopard introduced a new two-tone Imperiale whose generously proportioned 36mm case comes on a rose gold and stainless steel
bracelet. The firm’s expert gem setters have also created
a special version that features a diamondset bezel.
A chic union of jewelry and
horology, the Imperiale only
hints at the range of expertise at
Chopard’s command. ¨
Right: Chopard introduces a new version
of its 36mm Imperiale accented with a two-tone
bracelet made with rose gold and stainless steel.
The model is also available with a diamond-set bezel.
33
PersOnAliTy PrOFile
carving oUt
his
By Scott
Hickey
nIChe
The familiar guitar riff that opens the Rolling Stones’ “Jumpin’ Jack Flash” echoes loudly
through a brightly lit studio tucked inconspicuously at the end of a tree-lined cul-de-sac
in a quiet neighborhood of Spokane Valley, Washington.
A
s Mick Jagger howls about being “born in a crossfire
hurricane,” a slender man with long salt-and-pepper
hair and a bushy Van Dyke goatee sits intently at an
engraver’s bench. His steady hands and clear mind are miles
away from the musical storm swirling all around. J.C. Randell, one of the world’s foremost custom engravers, is going to work.
He leans over the surgical-grade
microscope bolted to his workbench before settling his forehead
into the cushioned headrest mounted above. Randell peers down onto
the caseback of a Jaeger-LeCoultre
Gran Sport Reverso. Where most
people see bare metal, he sees a
blank canvas. “Most fine art
hangs on the wall. Mine hangs
on your wrist,” he says.
Instead of expressing his
creativity with a paintbrush or pen,
Randell wields a cutting tool called
a graver to make his mark, engraving highly detailed micro-art onto
metal surfaces that are often less
than one square-inch. “For the last
30 years, my world has been about
the size of a quarter,” he observes.
TALKINGWITHHISHANDS
As the Stones give way to the otherworldly wail of Jimi Hendrix, Randell checks his gear one last time before making his
initial cut. “The music relaxes me,” he says pointing to the
nearby speakers.
It must work, because he radiates serenity like a prayerful monk, seemingly
undaunted by the fact that he is about to
slice into a stranger’s family heirloom.
“Before I pick up a graver, I know where
every line is going to go,” he explains.
“I spend almost as much time planning
as I do engraving, because if I make a
mistake, I can’t throw some paint on
the canvas and just cover it up.”
Beneath the calm exterior, however, simmers a passionate artist
whose supreme confidence is balanced by a wickedly dry sense of humor. “To do this kind of work, it helps
to be a little bit cocky; something I
may have been accused of a time or
two,” he jokes. “But honestly, who are
you going to trust with one of your
prized possessions, the guy who
thinks he can do the job, or the guy
who knows he can?”
Pixies and floral scrollwork embellish a single-letter monogram.
Quail in a nature scene decorate a stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Gran Sport Reverso.
These images, taken over several weeks, illustrate how the engraving evolved from the first cut to the last.
PersOnAliTy PrOFile
Randell answers by doing what he does
best: he lets his hands do the talking. The left
holds the sharp graver still against the
watch’s caseback, while the right carefully
manipulates the watch, which is secured in a
swiveling vice called a graver ball. This painstaking process is how he brings his imagination to life. “From the mind to the heart
and out through the hands,” he explains.
The graver lightly cuts a scrollwork
pattern that will eventually frame a pair of
quail roosting in a grassy meadow. When he
completes the basic layout, Randell will
spend weeks building up the details that give
the design its tantalizing realism. “To me,
true engraving is about creating the illusion
of depth,” he says. “If it’s done right, what
your eyes see as texture will be smooth to
the touch.”
J. C. Randell works at his engraver’s bench at his studio in Spokane Valley, Washington.
FINDINGAWAY
In 1987, after working 14 years as a successful watchmaker, Randell had an
epiphany: quit the watch business to engrave guns. The quail design he is
working on brings him back full circle. “Some of my
earliest work was engraving game birds on shotguns for hunters,” he recalls.
The transition from watches to weaponry, however, didn’t happen overnight.
He continued as a watchmaker four
more years, teaching himself the craft
of engraving in his free time through
trial and error. Randell says his goal
was to master self-expression, not
formal technique. “Finding my own
way certainly took longer, but I’ve never regretted it,” he insists. “Not knowing the rules forced me to develop my own
method, which is how my personal style
evolved. I’m glad I did it on my own. It’s why my
engravings stand out today.”
Indeed, by 1992 the demand for his originality and craftsmanship had
grown enough that he was able to retire as a watchmaker. In addition to firearms, he was also expanding his engraving repertoire to include knives,
pens, jewelry and, coincidently, watches. “I’m more comfortable working on
a small scale, which is probably a holdover from having my eyes buried inside watches for so long,” he says.
His career reached a turning point in
1994 when he responded to an anonymous
want ad seeking a watch engraver. As fate
would have it, the unnamed company was
the legendary Swiss watchmaking firm
Jaeger-LeCoultre.
After reviewing samples submitted by 11 applicants, the company
selected Randell as the factory’s
authorized custom engraver in
the U.S., a prestigious designation
he holds exclusively to this day.
“Over the years, I’ve carved out
my own little niche, so to speak, by
developing a unique style of engraving,” he says. “Jaeger allows me the
freedom to do what I do, which is all any
artist can ask for.”
Today, he is recognized as one of the
industry’s most creative engravers whose
work can be found adorning wrists all over
the U.S. and around the world. Despite the
wide acclaim, few in Randell’s bucolic hometown know what he does, a situation that
suits his intensely private personality.
Inset: A group of hungry hummingbirds drink nectar from flowers on a sterling silver pillbox.
Despite its textured
appearance, the intricate
scrollwork that covers this Reverso is
smooth to the touch. Randell says the
depth of the engraving is about the same found
on plates used to print paper money.
“I wore my Jaeger-LeCoultre hat to the store the other day and a
guy walked up to me, pointed at my hat and asked, ‘What does that
mean?’ I didn’t want to get drawn into a long explanation, so I told
him it was French for John Deere,”
he deadpans before breaking into a
mischievous laugh.
TURNINGONADIME
Despite his association with JaegerLeCoultre, Randell is free to engrave
any watch brand. Even so, much of
his time is dedicated to fulfilling requests to personalize one specific
model, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso.
The iconic watch, which celebrated
its 80th anniversary this year, is instantly recognizable thanks to
its swiveling case, which can be flipped so the caseback is displayed instead of the dial. “It is the perfect medium for what I do,”
Randell contends.
For this antique pillbox, Art Nouveau details form an elaborate frame around a woman’s portrait, which is roughly the size of a quarter.
Personality Profile
By his count, Randell has engraved hundreds of Reversos for clients. His graphic
embellishments range from the expected — monograms and family crests — to the
unexpected — the bones of the foot for a podiatrist, The Who’s logo for a dedicated
fan, and portraits of everything from beloved pets to Che Guevara
and the Hindu God Ganesh.
Art pieces like the portraits are the most demanding, Randell says. Among his biggest challenges
was engraving the Assumption of Mary on a woman’s Reverso. Within the confines of
the watch’s dime-sized caseback, Randell was able
to depict not only the
Virgin Mary ascending into heaven,
but also a host
For more information about
of seven angels.
a custom engraving, please
“When I’m workcall Cellini Jewelers at
ing on a piece like
800-CELLINI.
that, I’m so focused on
the tiny details that it’s impossible for me to truly appreciate the bigger picture as it comes together,” he says. “When I
finished and was finally able to take it all in, it
was like seeing the engraving for the first
time. I still wonder, ‘How did I do that?’”
Asked which project he’s most proud
of, Randell considers a moment before answering. “Honestly, I like them all because
each one represents a step I’ve taken to become the artist I am today,” he explains.
“Every time I sit down at the bench, I
learn something new that makes me
better. The day I stop learning is probably the day I should walk away.”
But that fateful moment has not
yet arrived for Randell. Much like the
sound of Janis Joplin’s voice pouring out
of his stereo’s speakers, he just gets better
with time. ¨
Clockwise from top: An Anglicized German script
“S” monogram appears in a portal on this Reverso.
A ring emblazoned with the Gebhart family coat of
arms. A favorite family pet is immortalized on a watch’s
caseback. Sea creatures surround a ship on the cap of this sterling silver S.T. Dupont pen. The nautical
motif continues on the body of the pen with a mermaid on one side and the owner’s initials on the other.
One of Randell’s most complex engravings depicts
the ascension of Mary into heaven on an area the
size of a dime. The photos reveal how Randell builds
up details over time to create the finished image.
DE BETHUNE
THE FUTURE
BEGINS
BY MEEHNA
GOLDSMITH
De Bethune is at the forefront of a
modern renaissance that finds horologists adapting materials and
techniques to watchmaking that
were originally pioneered by the
aeronautical, medical and computer industries. Seeking inspiration outside the watch industry
has allowed De Bethune to create a
number of remarkable watches in
just nine years. To date, the firm’s
research has led to 11 different calibers and several patent applications, all of which have helped raise
the bar for innovation throughout
the world of high horology.
“T
he driving force behind the company is our desire to find ways
of improving watchmaking with
modern materials and outside-the-box thinking,” says De Bethune President and founder
David Zanetta. “We create timepieces that
can stand direct comparison to the best in
horological history while also developing a
new direction distinctly our own.”
HARMONY OF CONTRASTS
Among De Bethune’s latest creations is the
DB28, a superlative timepiece that juxtaposes cutting-edge tech with a look that subtly references an 18th century carriage clock.
40
NOW
Available in rose gold or titanium, the case is set with an amorphous crystal that affords a
generous view of Calibre
DB2115, a movement
whose mechanical and
aesthetical details define
the DB28’s dynamic look.
At the center of the dial,
an arrowhead-shaped
section plays with light
and shadow using an impeccable combination of
polished surfaces and a
reversed Côtes de Genève
finishing. At the base of this
triangular structure, De Bethune
showcases a new escapement
design. It features a balance
wheel made from silicon and palladium and is protected by the firm’s
triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system.
The DB28 includes one of De Bethune’s signature creations, a patented
moon phase that is accurate to within one day every 122 years. More than just
a precision instrument, its depiction of the shifting lunar cycle is a joy to behold thanks to the simple beauty of its “moon,” whose light and dark halves
are comprised of platinum and blued steel.
Cellini President Leon Adams purchased the DB28 in titanium after it
caught his attention at the 2011 Geneva watch fair. “What I look for in a watch
is a combination of style and quality,” he explains. “Obviously it has to be
something extraordinary, given that I’ve seen practically every high horology
timepiece out there. I wanted something unique, a limited production timepiece that you don’t see many people wearing.”
A blued-titanium ring circles the DB28’s open-face design, which highlights the firm’s
signature Côtes De Bethune stripes and its patented spherical moon phase indicator.
This rose gold version of the
DB28 stands out thanks to its
blued-titanium lugs, which
automatically adjust to any size
wrist thanks to its pivoting design.
41
De Bethune
In addition to the DB28, De Bethune also
offers an open-faced tourbillon version of
the watch called the DB28T. It includes a
technically advanced tourbillon that the company says is the lightest and fastest on the
market. The DB28T comes in a titanium case
and is available with either a black or anthracite finish.
MODERN CLASSIC
With the DB25T, De Bethune continues to
focus on the tourbillon. Developed more
than 200 years ago for a pocket watch by
Abraham-Louis Breguet, this ingenious
mechanism is designed to improve precision
by compensating for the effect gravity has on
a watch movement.
De Bethune applies cutting-edge science
to optimize this classic complication for the
wristwatch. The result, featured in the
DB25T, is an ultra-light, cageless tourbillon
designed to counteract the sudden and random movements experienced by a wristwatch
during a typical day.
For the cage, the brand used a combination of silicon and titanium to
create a structure whose lightness belies its strength. In fact, the lightest
component of the 54-part tourbillon weighs one-ten-thousandth of a gram,
lighter than a grain of sand. This combination of qualities makes for a minimum of mass and inertia, which results in increased precision.
Another important characteristic that distinguishes the DB25T is that it is a
“dead seconds” watch. This complex technical achievement replaces the smooth
motion of the sweeping seconds hand found on most mechanical watches with
one that pauses for every second as it ticks pleasingly around the dial.
The company complements the DB25T’s advanced engineering with a
number of aesthetic flourishes, including a handcrafted dial whose rich blue
tint is studded with golden stars like a gorgeous nighttime sky. To indicate
the time, De Bethune uses gleaming steel hands and a sterling silver chapter
ring that is hand-engraved and decorated with a brushed finish. Near the top
of the dial, an indicator reports how much power remains in the watch’s 120hour reserve.
“The DB25T represents the culmination of all of the manufacture’s greatest horological advancements to date,” says David Witkover, the brand’s
agent in the U.S.
Above: Gold stars light up the DB25T’s flame-blued steel dial, which is surrounded by
a sterling silver chapter ring. The white gold case features a hand-wound tourbillon
movement with a central jumping seconds.
Left: The DB28T compensates for the effects of gravity with the lightest tourbillon on
the market, which weighs less than two-tenths of a gram. The titanium case features
a “hunter-style” caseback with a power reserve indicator.
42
ENHANCED PERFORMANCE
Led by Denis Flagollet, De Bethune’s research and development team strives
to elevate precision to a new level. “All of our watches feature case designs
and movements unique to the manufacture,” he explains. “As we make less
than 300 watches per year, they make an important statement about the
depth of our commitment to produce some of the most original timepieces
ever conceived.”
The DB25QP and DB25L in particular personify Flagollet’s unflagging
dedication to innovation. The DB25QP strikes a delicate balance with a magnificently crafted dial paired with the peerless micro engineering of a perpetual calendar. The silver dial, decorated by hand with guilloché, is made up
of five individual pieces arranged to convey a sense of visual depth and also
enhance the readability of the moon phase, calendar and time. Beneath the
dial beats an automatic caliber equipped with De Bethune’s latest titanium
and platinum balance.
The other member of this dynamic duo, the DB25L Ciel Etoile, highlights the expert work of De Bethune’s skilled craftsmen, who recreate the
starry heavens using the watch’s blued and polished titanium dial as a canvas. The attention to detail extends to the hand-wound mechanical movement (DB2105si), which includes steel components that flash with a mirror
finish. This spectacular effect, created through hand polishing, is unique to
De Bethune.
Original yet traditional, De Bethune combines classic methods with
modern advances to create wrist machines that are not only exceedingly
beautiful, but also technically progressive. ¨
Above: De Bethune’s perpetual calendar, the
DB25QP, uses an automatic movement equipped
with a technically advanced balance made of
titanium and platinum. Its 44mm case comes in
either rose or white gold.
Left: Available in white gold, the DB25L’s moon
phase turns amid a flame-blued sky alight with
gold stars. The movement’s self-regulating twin
barrel stores six days of reserve power.
43
DeWitt
The 46mm rose gold Twenty-8-Eight
Regulator ASW Horizons achieve its
signature Art Deco style with a combination of warm tonalities and
layered transparency effects.
Inspiration Strikes
By Elise
Nussbaum
While many luxury watchmakers scour the
automotive and aeronautical fields for ideas,
DeWitt looks beyond the world of science to the
arts, using iconic architecture and influential design
movements to inspire its innovative timepieces.
A NEW WAY TO UNWIND
The most beautiful part of the Twenty-8-Eight Regulator
ASW Horizons’ case, however, may be the transparent sapphire caseback, which provides a full view of the watch’s exceptional movement. The DW8014 is the first complicated
regulator movement with a tourbillon to be developed and
produced entirely by the
manufacture.
n fact, DeWitt says
Among the caliber’s
industrial design piohighlights is a patented
neer Norman Bel
automatic sequential
Geddes influenced its
winding device (ASW)
Twenty-8-Eight Regulathat uses a specialized
tor ASW Horizons with a
peripheral oscillating roline from his 1932 book
tor to maintain the mainHorizons: “At times, the
spring torque within its
only thing to do is to cut
peak operating range —
loose and do the unexbetween 92 and 96 perpected!”
cent. Once the barrel
When the book was
reaches 96 percent of its
published, New York City
capacity, the ASW disenwas perhaps the most ingages the rotor and windviting environment imaging stops. When the
inable for Art Deco archispring slackens to 92
tects who sought a bold
percent, the ASW reencanvas. So, it is only fitgages the rotor and windting that DeWitt chose to
ing resumes. The exhighlight this time and
treme technical sophplace with its Twenty-8The dial’s architectural motif carries over to the caseback, where columns
istication of the ASW
Eight Regulator ASW
offer a partial view of DW8014, the first complicated regulator movement
system, combined with the
Horizons.
with a tourbillon designed and produced in-house by DeWitt.
classic tourbillon, speaks
Four skyscraper-like
to the dedication and procolumns reach down the
found knowledge of the young brand’s expert designers.
dial, towering over the tourbillon cage before melding
DeWitt also places this technical feat inside a new limitand extending to embrace the mechanism. Sunray etchings
ed edition case whose stark materials provide a chic alternaradiate out in a style reminiscent of the Chrysler Building and
tive to the original rose gold. The titanium and black PVD
its permanent sunrise. Everything takes place on a dial of
Twenty-8-Eight Regulator ASW Horizons presents a futurischocolate-tinted sapphire, which complements the rose gold
tic take on the Art Deco motif, like a watch from the world of
of the case while also allowing a peek inside for curious conthe classic film Metropolis. Rose gold accents and a sapphire
noisseurs. The warm rose gold case continues the architecdial with chocolate tones echo the original model, and the
tural theme around the case middle and bezel as DeWitt’s
system inside is identical to the original, down to the Strausignature Imperial Columns mark their turf and echo around
mann hairspring’s unbreakable anti-magnetic alloy.
the bezel.
I
45
DeWitt
Another compelling variation on the theme emerges from a version crafted in titanium and — in a first for
DeWitt — tantalum. The two lustrous metals complement each other and frame the tourbillon cage with
understated seriousness. Its tinted dial is a bluish-gray
that echoes the color of tantalum, drawing attention to
DeWitt’s use of this unusual and innovative material.
With these intriguing models, each fundamentally the
same but unique in its craftsmanship and flourishes, the
brand underlines the technical sophistication and versatility of its Horizons line.
These pieces, like all DeWitt watches, are the fruit
of one individual: the company assigns just one master
watchmaker to assemble, adjust and test each watch,
weaving a direct link between artisan and the eventual
owner of these wrist-sized works of art.
A BALANCE OF CONTRASTS
An Art Deco aesthetic also pervades DeWitt’s Twenty-8Eight Tourbillon, which bears the distinction of being
DeWitt’s first entirely manufacture-made tourbillon
movement and evidences the company’s commitment to
quality inside and out. This movement was constructed
from the ground up with the utmost watchmaking
integrity and passion. The balance, escape wheel and
anchor are all crafted in 18-karat yellow gold, and the
barrel and cage-bridges are embellished with the classic
Côtes de Genève.
The dial design effortlessly blends opposing concepts — straight-edged columns descending into a
round tourbillon cage, Roman numerals interspersed
with their Arabic counterparts, and differing shades as
the sunray pattern extends outward. In rose or white
gold, the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon confirms DeWitt’s
careful attention to horological skill and a seemingly
effortless mastery over the design elements that best set
it off.
From top: Now available in a PVD-coated titanium case, the
Twenty-8-Eight Regulator ASW Horizons is powered by a
movement that features Automatic Sequential Winding (ASW),
a patented system that optimizes the mainspring’s torque.
Offered in either rose or white gold, the Twenty-8-Eight
Tourbillon houses the first tourbillon produced entirely by
DeWitt’s manufacture. Each movement is assembled by a
single watchmaker, whose name can be found on a tiny plate
attached to the barrel bridge.
46
COLORFUL CALENDAR
The focus moves from the monumental and stationary
to the forceful and aerodynamic with the brand’s new
Academia Quantième Perpétuel Sport.
A bold red accent swoops down the center of the
dial, staking out segments for the month, day, date and
moon phase indications. The colorful display continues
with matching stitching on the black alligator strap,
which suggests the details of a stylish racing machine.
With the Academia Quantième Perpétuel Sport’s
44mm titanium case, DeWitt demonstrates its command of traditional finishing techniques with circular
polishing on the bezel and vertical polishing on the case
middle. The sapphire caseback also reveals the fine
touch of the seasoned craftsmen who apply the beveling,
polishing and satin brushing to the movement.
In Bloom
The softness and elegance of DeWitt’s feminine Golden
Afternoon collection hearkens back to artistic styles of
the mid-nineteenth century, particularly the Pre-Raphaelites and their emphasis on feminine beauty amidst
highly symbolic untamed nature. This romanticism imbues the Golden Afternoon with a soft-focus beauty in
which mother-of-pearl blossoms explode in an exuberant burst of joy.
DeWitt’s traditional Imperial Columns are reimagined here as a diamond-pavé series of entrances to this
appealing garden. The crown also shows off a smoother
shape, topped with a ruby or sapphire cabochon. Different combinations of case materials and colors of mother-of-pearl create strikingly different interpretations of
this expressive take on Victorian beauty and femininity.
Whether designing in the masculine register of
sports cars, drawing on the soft, feminine tones of neoVictorian womanhood, or looking to modern monuments for inspiration, DeWitt combines a sure visual
sense with remarkable manufacture-made movements
that set the standard for precision and reliability. ¨
From top: The Academia Quantième Perpétuel Sport pays
homage to its automotive design roots with retrograde displays
for the date and day that recall a car’s dashboard gauges.
The Golden Afternoon collection radiates feminine beauty with
its supple curves and glowing mother-of-pearl accents. It is
available in rose gold with a chocolate mother-of-pearl dial, or
in white gold with either a black or white mother-of-pearl dial.
47
huBlOT
grace
under
Pressure
By meeHNa
GolDSmitH
Hublot makes an audacious splash in an elite
category of timekeeping instruments with the
Oceanographic 4000, the first professionalgrade dive watch in a carbon fiber case. What
makes the feat even more remarkable is that it
arrives just a few years after the Swiss watchmaker presented its first dive watch in 2007.
W
Shown here in titanium,
the Oceanographic 4000
thrives under intense pressure
thanks to protective features
like a screw-down crown,
a helium release valve and
an extra-thick crystal.
hile the watch’s ability to withstand intense underwater pressures was key, safeguarding divers
was equally important, says Hublot CEO, JeanClaude Biver. “Everything has to be perfect, because people
are trusting us with their lives,” he explains. “Each design
element was selected with that in mind, from the helium
release valve to the rotating internal bezel.”
To ensure the exterior’s watertight integrity, the Oceanographic 4000 uses a screw-down crown and is fitted with a
thicker-than-normal crystal (6.5mm). The rugged construction also includes a helium release valve that is designed to
relieve the significant internal pressure that can build during
deep dives and damage the movement and crystal.
To counteract the darkness divers experience at such
depths, Hublot ensures readability by treating the hands with
a luminescent coating and increasing the sizes of the dial and
flange. Unlike many dive watches, the Oceanographic 4000
uses an internal rotating bezel for its dive timer. Nearly impossible to move accidently during a dive, this construction
provides more security for divers who rely on the timer to
gauge how much oxygen remains in their tanks.
Because the case is quite large at 48mm, Hublot chose
light materials, creating one in titanium and a second in
black carbon fiber. Both versions come with two straps, one
for water and the other for land. Each attaches to the case using a design that enables the wearer to quickly change from
one to the other.
Hublot makes history
with the Oceanographic
4000, the first carbon fiber
dive watch certified to remain
waterproof to a depth of
4,000 meters.
Hublot
RIGHT ON TRACK
Hublot became the Official Watch of Formula 1
in 2010, forming an alliance that underscores
their shared focus on using high-tech materials to gain both precision and performance. To celebrate this partnership,
Hublot continues to introduce watches
that embody the spirit of this heartpounding sport.
Most recently, the firm unveiled the Formula 1 King Power
Ceramic at the 2011 Formula 1 UBS
Chinese Grand Prix. Its construction
uses ceramic, a material chosen because it is lighter than steel, virtually
scratchproof and impervious to rust.
The Formula 1 King Power Ceramic
takes other design cues from the racing world,
including a drilled carbon fiber bezel in the shape
of a disc brake, a strap made with the fire-proof
material found in driving suits, and a “Start” button
at 2 o’clock that activates the chronograph.
Two buttons control the chronograph, which is read from
a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3
o’clock and the central second hand. The matte-black dial
also features a small seconds display at 9 o’clock along with
the Formula 1 and Hublot logos at the
top. Limited to 500 pieces, the Formula 1 King Power Ceramic comes
in a beautifully textured black
ceramic case.
Hublot continues to find inspiration
at the racetrack with the King Power
Ayrton Senna. This limited edition of
500 pieces was created to commemorate what would have been the 50th
birthday of Ayrton Senna, the Formula 1 icon who was tragically
killed in 1994 at the San Marino
Grand Prix. Hublot pays homage to
the Brazilian-born driver on the watch’s
caseback with a laser-engraved portrait of
the three-time Formula 1 champion.
The watch utilizes a split-second chronograph movement and includes a power reserve
indicator whose green, blue and red dots evoke the
look of the starter lights used in Formula 1. While
the watch bears some visual similarities to the
50
Formula 1 King Power Ceramic, the King
Power Ayrton Senna stakes out its own territory with a bright yellow color scheme and a
carbon fiber case.
GREEN WITH ENVY
In 2004, the same year Jean-Claude Biver
became the firm’s CEO, Hublot captured collectors’ imaginations with the introduction
of its now-iconic Big Bang collection.
It wasn’t long before colorful options
slipped into the lineup, including the Big
Bang All Black Blue and Big Bang All Black
Red. Green is the latest tint to step into the
spotlight. The All Black Green shimmers
with bright green accents that stand out
against the black dial and matching ceramic
case, which comes in 44 or 48mm sizes.
From top: The Formula 1 King Power Ceramic’s
bezel is made from a mix of carbon fiber and
ceramic and drilled to mimic the look of a disc
brake. Powered by a chronograph movement,
the watch is a limited edition of 500 numbered
pieces.
The latest member of Hublot’s signature Big Bang
collection, the All Black Green is offered in a black
ceramic case contrasted by vivid green accents.
The King Power Ayrton Senna pays tribute to the
late Formula 1 champion with a racing-inspired
design that combines a split-second chronograph
with a carbon fiber case.
CAVIAR DREAMS
Hublot won the Jewelry Watch Prize at the 2009 Grand Prix
d’Horlogerie de Genève with its Million $ Black Caviar Bang,
a breathtaking timepiece with more than 34 carats of
rare, black diamond baguettes. Borrowing the look
of this million-dollar watch, the Big Bang Black
Caviar and White Caviar are composed
entirely of ceramic, which is cut, beveled and polished to resemble the
baguette diamonds of its muse.
Hublot’s Caviar creations are
both presented in a 41mm case
equipped with an automatic movement that includes a 42-hour power
reserve and a date display.
GIRLS JUST WANNA HAVE FUN
Ladies watches are no mere afterthought at Hublot, a
company well known for designing timepieces that resonate with fashion-forward women. Nowhere is this feminine
savvy more apparent than the introduction of its Big Bang
Snow Leopard and the latest additions to its ever-popular Tutti
Frutti line.
The Big Bang Snow Leopard brings out a woman’s wild
side with its spotted dial and matching strap. Its 41mm
black ceramic case comes topped with a white gold bezel,
which is set with a mix of quartz, smoky quartz and
topaz baguettes.
Hublot’s Tutti Frutti collection continues
to explore compelling color combinations as it highlights gorgeous
Earth tones with the Camel Carat
and Dark Green Carat. Both models are presented in a 41mm case
forged in either stainless steel, rose
gold or black ceramic. The Camel Carat’s
bezel comes set with Andalusite baguettes
while the Dark Green Carat’s bezel features green
sapphire baguettes.
With its latest creations, Hublot showcases not only
the depth of the firm’s horological expertise, but also the
range of its imagination with watches that continually find
new ways to delight and surprise. ¨
Clockwise from top left: To achieve the Big Bang Black Caviar’s dazzling look, Hublot cut, beveled and polished the ceramic to look like
baguette-cut diamonds. The Big Bang Snow Leopard’s spotted pattern is echoed on the bezel using quartz and topaz. Fun and flirty, the
stainless steel Camel Carat and rose gold Dark Green Carat both feature gem-set bezels that match each watch’s individual color scheme.
51
iwC
Rigorous testing by the IWC
laboratories confirms the impressive
192-hour power reserve offered
by the Portofino Hand-Wound
8 Days. Shown here in red gold,
the 45mm case also comes in
stainless steel.
STRENGTH,
SIMPLICITY,
STYLE
BY ELISE
NUSSBAUM
Introducing new variations on models in its essential Portofino and
Portuguese collections, IWC presents luxury timepieces that emphasize
the technical and aesthetic advantages of a more refined approach.
T
he Portofino line, first introduced in 1984, boasts the confident simplicity of a
classically circular case. With three new additions to this popular collection, IWC
explores the watchmaking possibilities inherent in a time-honored form.
The first, IWC’s Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days, honors the collection with a
technically refined mechanism whose scope and sophistication are true IWC. The
piece’s exterior exhibits the elegant restraint so characteristic of the
brand. The case, in stainless steel or red gold, measures an
impressive 45mm in diameter. A slate-gray dial complements
the red gold version, while the stainless steel version is
available with either a black or silver-plated dial. Its
design elements come together in seamless harmony with
a small seconds at 6 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock and power
reserve at 8:30. Together, they lead the eye around the dial
in an intuitive path and join to make a cohesive whole.
This uncluttered, modern dial serves to express the
soul of the highly sophisticated movement within the
Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days. Behind the
pleasing face beats its strong heart: the 59210 caliber, a
newly developed IWC-made movement from the 50000caliber family. The movement commands attention, measuring a healthy 37.8mm in diameter. The same size as a
pocket watch movement, the 59210 goes straight to the
heart of what its wearer wants: strength and reliability.
No delicate flower, the Portofino Hand-Wound Eight
Days enjoys a power reserve of no less — and no more — than
eight days. To achieve this, it uses a specially designed gear that
stops the movement after precisely 192 hours. Though the movement
has the capability to continue ticking off the seconds, IWC’s designers
chose to stop the watch before the tension in the spring was exhausted in
order to ensure pitch-perfect precision at all times.
The IWC-made movement on the
Portofino Hand-Wound 8 Days
ensures chronometric precision by
stopping automatically before the
mainspring unwinds completely.
IWC
STOPPING TIME
Stylistic simplicity leads to both robustness and elegance, qualities that mark the
Portofino Chronograph. The same careful attention to aesthetic detail that distinguished
Italian sports cars in the 1960s animates every aspect of this piece. Its dial subscribes to
the ancient concept of the circle as the perfect shape, with vertically arranged subdials
for the 30-minute and 12-hour counters. A small seconds ticks away discreetly at
9 o’clock, providing a geometrical balance to the day/date display at 3 o’clock.
The watch’s automotive roots express themselves throughout this dynamic
design. Nods to the sports car appear in the tiny pop of red in the chronograph
subdials and the automotive-inspired pushbuttons on the case at 2 and 4
o’clock. Available on an alligator strap, the Portofino Chronograph also
comes on a Milanese mesh bracelet, which can be adjusted in 5mm increments to gently, yet firmly, encircle any wrist.
IN PORTOFINO VERITAS
Paring away everything save the necessary, the Portofino Automatic is the last
word in refined minimalism. 2011 is the Year of the Portofino, and this classic
model returns in style. Eschewing all but three hands – hours, minutes,
seconds – and a discreet date display, the Automatic hews closely to the
standards of relative horological purity.
The case has been slightly redesigned, growing slowly over the years
to an assertive yet still understated 40mm diameter. What has remained constant, however, is the way the case flows smoothly into the lugs that frame it top
and bottom. The piece comes in stainless steel or red gold, with a Milanese mesh
bracelet available for the stainless steel version. For the red gold version’s caseback, IWC diverges from its emphasis on smooth simplicity by including a painstakingly engraved image of the harbor of Portofino, the collection’s namesake.
From top: The stainless steel Portofino Chronograph exudes restrained dynamism, from the
harmonious equilibrium of the chronograph counters to the splash of red that adorns each one. Appreciated for the purity of its dial design,
the stainless steel Portofino Automatic comes on either an alligator leather strap or Milanese mesh bracelet. An engraving of the harbor at
Portofino is available exclusively on the back of the red gold Portofino Automatic.
54
PERPETUAL PORTUGAL
The Portuguese collection is another defining line from IWC and home to the firm’s celebrated
Portuguese Perpetual Calendar. Crafted to such a high degree of technical perfection
that practically no further refinements could be added, the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar comes in two superlative editions, each one clad in either red or white gold.
Both versions are equipped with a highly sophisticated mechanism that displays the date, day, month and year in four digits. Unlike many calendar watches,
which require the wearer to make the necessary adjustments for the leap year,
the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar needs no such adjustment until 2100, when
the usual leap year is elided to keep the Gregorian calendar on track. That year
will also see the watch’s tiny transmission belt move a few millimeters to slip
the new century digit into place.
One important technical characteristic, however, distinguishes these two
versions of the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar. Both include a perpetual moon
phase, but one (Reference 5032) displays how the moon would look from either
side of the equator, while the other (Reference 5023) adheres to the classic Northern Hemisphere perspective.
THE ART OF SUBTLETY The Portuguese Automatic rounds out IWC’s offerings in classically understated
style. The 50000-caliber family of large movements was designed for the Portuguese
Automatic, giving it a chance to strut its stuff with a powerful motor behind it. Crucial
design elements all point to the brand’s pocket watch roots, including its assertive 42.3mm
case, feuille hands, Arabic numeral appliqués, railway-track
chapter ring and the balanced composition of the power
reserve display at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock.
A transparent caseback reveals the workings of this
horologically perfected movement. The powerful stainless steel version tempers its businesslike demeanor
with rose gold hands, numerals and hour indexes.
Another member of the collection, this one in
red gold, turns up the heat on the paler rose
gold used for previous models.
With a keen eye for the telling
detail, IWC continues to set the
standard for blending form and
function with self-assured timepieces that endlessly refine the
limits of style and technology. ¨
Top: Owners of IWC’s Portuguese Perpetual Calendar
(Reference 5032 shown here) might want to alert their
grandsons: the calendar function needs no adjustments for
the leap year until 2100.
Bottom left & right: The Portuguese Automatic uses subtle variations
on color to make the dial’s elegant geometry come to life. Shown here
in stainless steel, the case is also offered in red or white gold.
55
JAeger-leCOulTre
BeauTY
aT everY
Turn
By jack
ForSter
Perhaps no single watchmaking firm is as deeply intertwined with the
legacy of Swiss haute horlogerie as Jaeger-LeCoultre. Throughout its history,
Jaeger-LeCoultre has been one of Swiss watchmaking’s most esteemed and
admired suppliers of watch movements, and continues to be especially famed for
both high complications, as well as the creation of ultra-thin watch movements.
T
hough Jaeger-LeCoultre movements
can be found inside timepieces made by some of fine
watchmaking’s greatest houses, it
has never allowed what it does
for others to eclipse what it creates under its own name. That
ability to maintain its individuality is why the watches carrying
the names of Antoine LeCoultre
and Edmond Jaeger are among
the most legendary and iconic
in the world.
This year was the 80th
anniversary of one such watch:
the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.
The Reverso was originally
developed by Jacques-David
LeCoultre at the suggestion of
Swiss businessman César de Trey,
who was shown a watch with a
broken glass by a member of a British polo club during a trip to India in
1930. He was thus inspired to create a
watch that was able to tolerate rough sports
use, but at the same time offer an elegant,
distinctive profile.
The result was the Reverso. Since its 1931 debut, the Reverso has
been a vehicle for some of the manufacture’s most sophisticated complications, and its reversible
case offers unparalleled opportunities
for decorative embellishment. Engraving, decoration with jewels,
and miniature enamel paintings
of incredible detail and beauty
have all adorned the Reverso, and
customization of almost any kind
imaginable remains a service still offered
by Jaeger-LeCoultre today.
SEDUCTIONOFREDUCTION
This year, however, was the first that Jaeger-LeCoultre
combined its expertise in elegant, ultra-thin movement
design with the Reverso case, in the Grande Reverso Ultra
Thin watches. Two variations have been created: the
grande reverso ultra Thin timepieces, and a special, limited production series, the grande reverso ultra Thin
“Tribute to 1931”, which reflects the design of the original
Reversos of eight decades ago. A new movement — the ultrathin Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 822 — has been created especially for the new collection.
Limited to 500 piece worldwide, the rose gold Grande Reverso “Tribute to 1931” recalls
the original Reverso design with a dial inscribed simply with the model’s name.
Available exclusively in America,
this stainless steel version of the
Grande Reverso “Tribute to 1931”
contrasts its tan-colored luminous
markers against a black dial.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Grande Reverso Ultra Thin
“Tribute to 1931” models, while slightly larger than the Reverso of 1931,
retain the exact proportions of
height to width as the original. This ratio — about 1.6
to 1 — is the famous Golden Ratio, studied and used
by mathematicians, artists
and architects since ancient Greece, which
Jaeger-LeCoultre says
has been carefully preserved in all rectangular
Reverso models.
The “Tribute to
1931” models are available in a rose gold limited
edition with a white dial
(500 pieces worldwide) and
in a limited production stainless steel model. For
the United States, a very
special US-only limited edition is also offered, with
tan-colored luminous
markers and unique
straight hands with
pointed tips. The
strap for this model
recalls the polo tradition as
well and is crafted by Eduardo Fagliano, the famous Argentine maker of polo boots.
The Ultra Thin family
also includes models that
represent the evolution of
the Reverso design into the
present day while always
preserving its basic harmonious proportions. The
models in stainless steel or
white gold bear the name
“Jaeger-LeCoultre” on the
dial with Arabic numerals,
guilloché decorated dials, and
flame-blued steel hands seen in
more recent Reverso models.
58
By contrast, the Reverso Ultra
Thin “Tribute to 1931” dial
simply says “Reverso” instead of the firm’s name.
In addition, the
Grande Reverso line includes an updated version
of one of the most useful
Reversos, the Reverso Duo.
First offered by JaegerLeCoultre in 1994, the Reverso Duo is perhaps the
world’s easiest-to-use dual
time zone watch. To see
the local time, one simply
reverses the case to expose
the second face of the watch
and, upon returning home,
turns the case back to its original position.
Finally, the Grande Reverso Email (enamel) offers the
distinctive Grande Reverso profile in a generously proportioned case, with a grande feu enamel dial. Fired enamel dials
are often imitated, but only true fired enamel has the combination of depth, richness and permanence that makes them
coveted by knowledgeable connoisseurs.
Clockwise from top left: The Grande Reverso Duo, shown in both
stainless steel and rose gold, is a dual time zone watch that indicates
the home time on one dial and the local time on the other.
The rich depth of the grande feu enamel dial combined with its Art
Deco details give the Grande Reverso Email its classic look.
The Grande Reverso Duo’s secondary dial combines a traditional
time display with a helpful day/night indicator.
MASTER CLASS
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s offerings for 2011 were notable not only for
the classic beauty of the new Reverso models, but also for a
diversity that few other manufacturers can match. The
Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic updates the
look and materials of the already robustly built and
styled Master Compressor Chronograph with a black
case and bezel made in virtually scratchproof
ceramic. The Master Compressor’s distinctive
crown is present, and matched with vintage-style
rectangular chronograph pushers, and a sporty and
instantly legible white-on-black dial.
A new version of the manufacture’s Master Geographic world time watch is being offered as well. As
with previous models, the Master Geographic offers the
display of the time both at home and in one of 24 time
zones around the world — and as a bonus it is one of the
very few world time watches designed to accommodate summer or winter (Daylight Saving Time) offsets as well. Now offered with elegant dagger-shaped hands and elongated triangular hour markers on the dial, the Master Geographic continues
to be the well-dressed traveler’s best friend in a classically proportioned round case in rose gold or stainless steel.
Finally, Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to refine its most
complicated offerings, including the Master 8 Days Perpetual Calendar. The combination of an eight day power
reserve with a perpetual calendar is both a rarity and
very practical, as it helps ensure that the watch,
if not worn for a few days, will not run down
and require laborious re-setting of the
perpetual calendar. In the unlikely
event this does occur, all the indications for the Master 8 Days
Perpetual Calendar can be
re-set easily with a single
pusher. With a new,
clean and classic dial
design, and in stainless steel
or rose gold, the Master 8 Days
Perpetual Calendar continues the
proud Jaeger-LeCoultre heritage of
combining purposeful functionality
with timeless elegance. ¨
Left: Along with its
newly redesigned dial,
the Master Compressor
Chronograph is now
available in a black
ceramic case with a
matching bezel.
Below: The latest
incarnation of the
Master Geographic,
shown in stainless
steel, features new
hands and markers.
Also available in rose gold,
the watch provides a world
time function as well as a
second time zone display.
Left: Measuring 40mm in diameter, the rose gold Master
8 Days Perpetual Calendar is the only perpetual calendar to
offer eight days of reserve power.
59
Panerai
In-house Experts
By Michael
Thompson
Panerai has always drawn upon the richness of its shared Italian and Swiss heritage to shape
its instantly recognizable style. So, when the firm began introducing its acclaimed manufacture
movements five years ago, it was only natural that this new generation of proprietary mechanisms distilled the best from both worlds, combining Swiss watchmaking expertise with the design
code Panerai established in 1936 when it developed the Radiomir for the Royal Italian Navy.
T
he latest caliber created at the firm’s
workshop in Neuchâtel, the P.3000,
finds a home in Panerai’s Luminor
1950 3 Days. It features a newly redesigned
Luminor case that adopts the Radiomir’s
cusp-shaped caseband, while also subtly referencing early historic models used by Italian
divers with elements like the metal caseback
engraved with “Officine Panerai.”
Inside the case, the P.3000’s generous
proportions maintain a strong link to Panerai’s well-known proclivity for substantial
designs. In part, that tradition can be traced
to the firm’s long history as a supplier of instruments to the armed forces. To withstand
the rigors of military service, Panerai chose
to create strong, three-quarter plate movements, a design that is larger but forms an
extra-rigid internal structure.
The P.3000, the latest movement produced entirely at Panerai’s
manufacture in Neuchâtel, makes its debut in the 47mm
stainless steel Luminor 1950 3 Days (PAM00372).
60
THE COMPANY YOU KEEP
Of course, Panerai’s new P. 3000 is only the latest in a growing line of in-house
calibers unveiled by the firm since 2006. Among the first was the P.2004, the company’s first in-house chronograph, which debuted in 2007 in the Luminor 1950
8 Days Chrono Monopulsante GMT.
While the chronograph has become ubiquitous in recent years, the P.2004
stands apart as a rare breed. For one, it is on a very short list of chronographs that can lay claim to being developed and produced entirely
in-house. Designed with the aficionado in mind, the movement offers
a remarkable eight days of reserve power, but more importantly, it
is one of the few column wheel chronographs with a vertical
clutch system, a refined combination known for its longevity
and precision.
“I look at the P.2004 and see the quintessential expression
of what Panerai is achieving through its in-house movements,”
says Panerai North America President Rafael Alvarez. “It reflects
the personality of our unique history, but it is also leading the way
to Panerai’s future.”
MILITARY GRADE
Building bridges from the past to
the future is something Panerai
does well, as demonstrated by the
introduction of the Radiomir Black
Seal Ceramic in 2007.
Like an author turning a clever phrase, the watch expresses the Radiomir’s rugged spirit succinctly, translating its
historic cushion-shaped case into something new using a modern
vocabulary derived from cutting-edge technology. Rather than forge the
case from metal, Panerai developed an advanced method that uses
intense pressure to mold the case from black ceramic. The result is a
military-grade material that provides a range of advantages, not the least
of which is that it is virtually impossible to scratch.
With its Radiomir Black Seal Ceramic, along with its growing
family of manufacture movements, Panerai personifies the adage that
to truly know where you’re going, you must first understand where
you’ve been. ¨
From top: The Luminor 1950 8 Days Chrono
Monopulsante GMT (PAM00311) combines a
sophisticated column wheel chronograph with
an impressive eight-day power reserve in one
of Panerai’s in-house movements.
A certified-chronometer movement powers the
delightfully dark design of Panerai’s Radiomir
Black Seal Ceramic (PAM00292).
61
Culinary Cameos
Around
The
World in
Eighty
Blocks
By Amy
Cohen
Imagine this: You’re sitting in a cozy café, sunlight spilling through the windows, with a piping hot Venezuelan
arepa on your plate. It reminds you of the steaming,
stuffed Indian paratha you had last week, and the
Portuguese custard cakes you’ve been meaning to try.
Walking home, you decide tonight will be Peruvian,
tomorrow will be Czech, and over the weekend you’ll go
to that new Spanish place you’ve heard so much about.
S
ound impossible? Not in Manhattan, where instead of a firstclass airline ticket, all that’s needed to savor these distinctive
cuisines is a taxi.
In New York City you can travel the world by moving from neighborhood to neighborhood. We explore that notion at five new eateries that serve
authentic regional delicacies created by chefs who stay true to their roots,
many cooking foods from their childhoods. Join us as we discover the world
of exotic flavors that is just around the corner.
Hospoda photographs by Marianne Rafter
Hospoda
321 East 73rd Street, New York City
212.861.1038 • Hospodanyc.com
Thin-sliced Duck Breast
with Pear Sour Cream
T
he Upper East Side welcomes back Czech and Central
European food with the arrival of Hospoda in the landmark Bohemian National Hall building, which is also
the city’s Czech consulate and cultural center. Chef Oldrich
Sahajdak puts a contemporary twist on the typical sauces and dishes
from his childhood, using one of the country’s most beloved cookbooks as a starting point.
The menu includes three courses, the first cold and the next light.
A third focuses on strong flavors and stylized presentation, like
pan-seared striped bass with fennel, maitake, almonds and lemon
sauce. This course offers a nice counterpoint to the traditional
Czech dishes that Hospoda also serves, such as beef flatiron with
creamy sauce, dill oil and braised potato dumplings. The chef says
the authentic flavors are easily recognized, but the updated presentation and modern spin will surprise guests.
While it is common practice in the Czech Republic, Hospoda is the
only place in New York City where you can find Pilsner Urquell on
tap, poured four different ways. Draft master Lukas Svoboda uses
old-age draughting techniques to bring out the Czech beer’s complex and unusual characteristics, from full-flavored with a creamy
head to sharp and bitter with no head. Tasting menus can be
created with either wine or beer pairings.
House Specialties
•Poached beef flatiron, creamy sauce with dill oil,
braised potato dumplings
•Slow-cooked rabbit with red cabbage essence
and dumpling
Popular Choices
•Freshly smoked beef tongue, yellow pea purée,
pickled spring onion
•Rib eye steak tartare with capers, mustard and
onion on bread chips
Free-Range
Fried Egg with
Lobster Mushroom
Czech
63
Culinary Cameos
Alfama photographs by Michael Tulipan
Alfama
214 East 52nd Street, New York City 212.759.5552 • Alfamanyc.com
Grilled Octopus
House Specialties •Seared quail breast with sautéed crimini
mushrooms and quail-leg confit
•Rabbit meatballs with sage
Popular Choices
•Mariscada Alfama: a stew of lobster, shrimp,
clams, mussels and monkfish in a lobster and
wine broth
•Sautéed pork loin and Manila clams in a white
wine and bell pepper reduction with fried
cubed potatoes, cilantro and lemon wedges
•Shrimp turnovers with arugula salad
•Codfish cakes with chickpea purée
C
hef Francisco Rosa has a respect and love for food that dates
back to his childhood, which he spent on a farm in central
Portugal. Not only did his family raise livestock and grow
almost everything they ate, when Rosa was 13, his first job was in a
restaurant. He draws from this heritage to create innovative representations of traditional cuisine, while highlighting the newest culinary
trends in Portugal. The menu is inspired by the country’s former colonies, including influences from Brazil, India and southern Africa. When
combined, they produce a modern cuisine that explores the breadth
of Portugal by matching local seasonal ingredients with traditional
Portuguese flavors.
Many dishes will surprise guests with unusual combinations like pork
and clams, a traditional dish from the south, or monkfish stuffed with
prosciutto. The chef uses his mother’s recipe for the chanfana, lamb
stew, and the broa, a peasant cornbread. “Every time I prepare them,
it takes me home,” he says. The seasonality of ingredients is key to
Alfama’s changing menu, and even though chef Rosa loves working
with fish year-round, this fall he will focus on meat and duck dishes
with heartier flavors like mushroom, pear, apple and orange.
For a truly authentic experience, the chef recommends that guests order
the codfish cakes, shrimp turnovers, grilled octopus, chicken gizzards
and any salted cod dish. For dessert, don’t miss the pasties de nata, the
famous Portuguese custard cakes. They’re also available from Alfama’s
bread and pastry takeout.
Pasteis de Nata
64
Portuguese
Tulsi photographs by Melissa Hom
Tulsi
211 East 46th Street, New York City
212.888.0820 • Tulsinyc.com
L
ong respected as a tandoor master, chef Hemant Mathur now has a
stage of his own to spotlight his signature dishes at Tulsi, an Indian
oasis located in a steak-laden part of Manhattan. Tulsi is known for
reinventing the classics with clean, distinct flavors, the concept extending even
to the handcrafted cocktails made with fresh ingredients and Indian spices.
Chef Mathur cooks from the heart and features many of his boyhood favorites on
the menu. Goat rogan josh, a dish his family ate every Sunday, is a Kashmiri-style
curry where the goat is cooked in yogurt, spices and Kashmiri red chili powder.
Goat is also featured in dum biryani, a rice dish baked in a traditional handi pot
sealed with naan dough. His favorite childhood dish is black chickpea kadhi,
a traditional spicy stew of black chickpeas, potatoes, roasted chickpea flour,
yogurt, garlic, turmeric, green chilies, lemon juice and cilantro.
Tulsi specializes in savory breads and chaats, the street cart snacks found all over
India. You can choose from samosas, naan, paratha or other stuffed breads at the
bar or at the table while choosing your meal. Leave it in the hands of the chef and
have the seven-course tasting menu to enjoy a variety of cooking styles, textures
and flavors.
Dum Biryani
Tandoor-Grilled
Lamb Chops
House Specialties
•Tulsi’s dal with black lentils, ginger,
garlic, red chilies and tomato
•Tandoori prawns with crispy okra and
eggplant chutney
Popular Choices
•Mathur’s tandoor-grilled lamb chops
with south Indian potatoes and
plum chutney
•Parsi Fish of the Day: steamed in
banana leaves with coconut, cilantro
and sesame paste
•Duck moilée with coconut-curry leaf
sauce, south Indian potatoes and
okra chips
•12-spice chicken curry with
kachumber salad and roti
Indian
65
La Mar
Cebicheria Peruana
11 Madison Avenue, New York City
212.612.3388 • LaMarCebicheria.com
Lomo Saltado
W
ith several locations in North and South America, La Mar
Cebicheria Peruana pays homage to the thousands of
cibicherias found in Peru. Its newest location in Manhattan celebrates what many consider Peru’s greatest culinary gift,
cebiche. In keeping with its mission to “transmit the freshness of the
sea and the infectious personality of Peru and its people to all
[its] customers,” La Mar New York offers refined classics alongside
new creations.
Chef Lopez’s Tasting Menu
•Cebiche: Peru’s national dish, made with
sustainably caught fish and shellfish
• Causas: whipped potatoes with a seafood
or vegetarian topping
•Encamotadoes: blue shrimp in a sweet potato
crust with a purple corn reduction and
mango cebiche
•Anticuchos: grilled skewers inspired by Peruvian
food carts
•Seared yellowfin tuna with Peruvian spices, bok
choy, green onions, parihuela nikei reduction,
coconut foam and quinoa
•Lúcuma y cacao: lúcuma cream on top of
crushed shortbread cookies, a rich chocolate
sauce and gooseberries
66
Chef Victoriano Lopez says the restaurant showcases Peruvian cuisine
with a menu that uses sustainable ingredients supplied by local farmers and greenmarkets. He was excited to find aji amarillo, a yellow
chile pepper spice, at the Union Square Greenmarket. That, combined
with his childhood memory of making cheese, led to the creation of a
special side dish called ajiaco de papas. A blend of cheese, aji amarillo,
cream and potatoes, it is designed to accompany the grilled Maine
lobster cebiche. The menu, however, goes beyond fish with meat
dishes like roasted Berkshire pork belly, lamb shoulder and lamb
chop, Peruvian chicken stew and duck-leg confit.
Sure to be one of the young restaurant’s most popular dishes is the
cebiche elegance, a traditional cebiche comprised of the five classic
elements: fish, red onion, lime, chile pepper and salt. Popular in Peru,
lomo saltado is a traditional wok stir-fry of Angus hangar steak,
onions, tomatoes, scallions and fried quail egg, which is served with
a side of traditional rice.
Peruvian
La Mar Cebicheria Peruana photographs by Noah Fecks
Culinary Cameos
Romera photograph by Oliver Brenneisen
Romera
355 West 16th Street, New York City 212.929.5800 • RomeraNewYork.com
Unfolding over an 11-course meal, a series of “elements and symbolism”
exploit the properties of each ingredient with the goal that the flavors and
aromas reach perfect harmony on the palate. Romera invented a fat-free
ingredient from yucca root called Cassavia years ago that is capable of assuming any flavor and texture. So while his food sounds rich, it is actually healthy.
Isis
Caracas Arepa Bar photograph by Doug Todd
R
omera introduces New Yorkers to the high-concept dining
experience pioneered by Dr. Miguel Sanchez Romera, who is
both a physician and chef. Although born in Argentina, he
spent most of his life in Spain, where his work as a neurologist provided
the foundation for his new cuisine, which he calls “neurogastronomy.” It
describes his holistic approach, where the act of dining becomes a performance. His extensive research on how the mind recalls, reacts to, and
remembers each meal is reflected in how he treats each ingredient, with
vegetables being his specialty.
Spanish
W
hen Venezuelan couple Maribel
Araujo and Aristides Barrios
started the first Caracas Arepa
Bar in 2005, they needed to sell at least 60
arepas a day to break even. Today, they make
more than a thousand a day in multiple New
York locations. The couple feels their secret
to success is consistency, attention to detail
and their love of the craft. True slow food,
each pale gold arepas is prepared by hand
from scratch. Made from corn flour, they
look like a cross between a flat corn muffin, a
puffy pita, and a flat dumpling.
They are versatile enough to be eaten alone
on the go, or enjoyed in the cozy dining room
paired with one of the day’s specials. Opinions differ on which filling is the best,
but one thing is unanimous: they are all
delicious. ¨
Despite his unorthodox approach, Romera says: “I’m essentially still cooking with the basic flavors I grew up with.” His signature vegetable dish, called
Isis, provides an example. A bowl is lined with a bright mosaic of dehydrated
vegetable powders, which will form the base of the soup. This is topped with
an array of stewed whole vegetables, which are prepared to appear as if they
are still raw, their color still vivid. A consommé of seasonal vegetables is
poured over the arrangement tableside, triggering for the guest an experience of sight, smell and taste that Romera hopes evokes memories of family
meals at home.
Caracas Arepa Bar
93
1/2
East 7th Street, New York City • 212.529.2314
Pabellón
Venezuelan
67
Parmigiani Fleurier
Back
To the Future
By Scott
Hickey
Change is inevitable. Thanks to Parmigiani Fleurier, embracing it is always a joy. To adapt to
the constantly shifting sands of time, the acclaimed Swiss watchmaking firm has devised a
wristwatch that can also be converted into a fob watch or a table clock.
L
ike a seasoned character actor, the Transforma Chronograph plays these three distinctive roles with a cool
confidence. Using a modular design, the watch moves
quickly from wrist to pocket. Pressing the buttons on the
lower lugs opens the stainless steel chassis like a clamshell
and frees the watch body. Once removed, it is then fastened
into a round frame attached to a stainless steel chain to form
a classic, open-face pocket watch.
The Transforma’s third and final act comes at the end of
the day. After it has been reunited with its Hermès strap, the
wristwatch can then be placed upright inside a macassar ebony
box to complete a table clock. Beyond its visual appeal, the
wood’s magnificent natural graining not only conceals an automated winder to replenish the watch’s power reserve, but it also
contains compartments to store the watch’s sundry parts.
The Parmigiani Manufacture in Fleurier produces all of
the Transforma’s key components, including its automatic
chronograph movement. Created especially for this timepiece, caliber PF334 measures the chronograph minutes and
hours on intersecting, dark gray counters that stand out
against the silver dial and its Côtes de Genève stripes.
With this versatile horological shape-shifter, Parmigiani
has created an objet d’art that proves equally adept at projecting modern tastes or evoking a bygone era.
An ingenious shape shifter, the Transforma Chronograph can be used as a wristwatch, open-face pocket watch or a table clock.
68
The Transforma Chronograph’s 43mm stainless steel case houses
an exquisitely decorated automatic chronograph movement
produced exclusively at Parmigiani’s manufacture workshops.
Inset: With the watch inside, the macassar ebony winding box
doubles as a table clock with drawers to store the Transforma’s parts.
69
Parmigiani Fleurier
Left: Elegant minimalist
design and innovative
micro-engineering come
together in the ultra-thin
Tonda 1950. The 39mm
case, which is less than
8mm thick, is offered in
either white or rose gold.
Less Is More
French writer Antoine de
Saint Exupéry once said:
“A designer knows he has
achieved perfection not when
there is nothing left to add,
but when there is nothing left
to take away.”
Parmigiani epitomizes this
minimalist ideal with the new ultra-thin
Tonda 1950. By sweeping aside all extraneous details, the firm sharpens the focus on
what remains and, in doing so, amplifies the
design’s visual power. To achieve this simple elegance, the opalescent dial’s discreet composition is confined to a central
time indication and a small seconds display. The elongated hour markers are
tapered to a point, a shape echoed by the hour and minute hands, which are
enriched with a luminescent coating.
While the Tonda 1950’s dial makes an instant visual connection,
its refined case must be worn to be truly appreciated. Its lithe
profile, which measures less than 8mm thick, rests comfortably on the wrist. What’s more, Parmigiani’s emblematic teardrop-shaped lugs offer an ergonomic embrace, making the watch feel like a natural extension
of the wrist.
Presented in white or rose gold, the Tonda 1950’s
sophisticated restraint delivers a joyful tribute to the
art of subtlety.
the Parmigiani Manufacture, the Bugatti
Super Sport’s case — rounded and tapered
like an airfoil — is fitted with six sapphire
crystals to highlight the advanced design of
caliber PF 372.
Much of the manually wound movement
is visible through the top of the case including the balance, escapement and 10-day power reserve indicator. An oval opening on the
front displays the time vertically on an openworked dial. Orange accents recur throughout the design, reflecting the color Bugatti
chose to decorate its record-setting Veyron
16.4 Super Sport — the watch’s inspiration.
Just like the car, the Bugatti Super Sport is
strictly a limited edition, with Parmigiani
producing 30 pieces for the entire world.
Blue For You
First unveiled in 2008, the Hemispheres
collection is distinguished by a manufacture
movement endowed with an exclusive dual
time zone function. While most GMT watches limit adjustments to the second time zone
display to one-hour increments, Parmigiani
has created a caliber that allows the second
time zone to be set to the minute using a
secondary crown.
Racing to the Top
There is nothing understated, however, about the
exuberant complexity of the Bugatti Super Sport.
Introduced last year, it is the second entry into Parmigiani’s groundbreaking Bugatti collection since
it debuted in 2004.
It is virtually impossible to overstate how
different this timepiece is from other watches,
both inside and out. Produced exclusively at
70
Sapphire crystals on all sides of
the wing-shaped case provide a
stunning interior view of the Bugatti
Super Sport’s pioneering movement.
Parmigiani will limit production to just
30 pieces in white gold.
For the traveler who
frequents any of the numerous time zones
that use 30- or
15-minute offsets
from GMT, this
rare ability to completely synchronize the second
time zone to the
local time is especially welcome.
The dial’s intuitive
arrangement
makes it easy to get
one’s bearings at a
glance. The traveler’s home time is
displayed centrally
in conjunction with
a small seconds and
a day/night indicator.
The destination time is read
from the nearby subsidiary dial, which also
features a day/night indicator.
Parmigiani expanded the collection this
year with the Kalpa Tonda 42 Hemispheres.
Presented in stainless steel or rose gold,
the watch retains all of the collection’s technical attributes, but dresses them up with
a new blue dial. Its open center uncovers
sections of the movement decorated with
Côtes de Genève.
Left: Available with a new blue dial, the Kalpa Tonda
42 Hemispheres features a novel second time
zone display that can be set to the minute using
the secondary crown.
Freedom of Expression
The traditional Swiss craftsmanship that
elevates the men’s collection is also a fundamental element of Parmigiani watches destined
for women’s wrists. None has epitomized this
luxurious legacy as well as, and as long as, the
Kalpa Donna.
From its sensuous tonneau curves to the gorgeous diamond appointments available for its dial
and case, the Kalpa Donna’s handcrafted details project a delightful equanimity that transcends fleeting
trends. Timeless, yes. Boring, no. Thanks to a kaleidoscope of dial options, each watch possesses a distinct
personality, ranging from cool blue to fiery ruby red.
For the woman who wants it all, Parmigiani created the
Kalparisma, a collection that balances exquisite feminine form with
sophisticated mechanical function. The Kalparisma’s gently arching
case accommodates a manufacture-made automatic movement equipped
with either a date display, or a star-shaped seconds indicator. A row of diamonds can be added to the case and lugs to intensify the refined beauty of the
dial’s sunray guilloché decoration.
Despite the dynamic range of
options available to personalize
the watches in the Kalparisma
and Kalpa Donna collections,
they both remain emphatically
Parmigiani. ¨
From left:
Brilliant-cut diamonds
decorate the Kalpa Donna’s stainless
steel case and its blue sunburst guilloché dial.
An automatic movement powers the rose gold Kalparisma, which is presented on an Hermès strap.
71
Roger Dubuis
Côtes de Genève
meets Côtes D’azur
By Elise
nussbaum
Distinctive inside and out, Roger Dubuis
timepieces belong in a world all their own.
I
t is a world of unstinting quality, in which movements are
routinely awarded the prestigious Geneva Seal and certified as chronometers by the COSC. A world where cases
evolve into a shape that is neither square nor circle, but something in between, and where Roman numerals stretch nearly
off the dial in a bid for infinity. This mind-bending, bar-raising approach has worked well for the brand, one of the
world’s most admired after just a decade and a half in the
world of haute horlogerie.
THE PRINCE OF MONACO
Monaco is one of the smallest countries in the world (only
the Vatican is smaller), but its beautiful climate and welcoming atmosphere make it an alluring touchstone for European
travelers. Roger Dubuis pays tribute to this popular principality on the Côtes d’Azur with its Monégasque collection.
The La Monégasque Perpetual Calendar takes full advantage of the broad canvas afforded by its 44mm rose gold
72
case. An exuberant yet serious dial plays on the idea of circles
within circles pushing up against a staid square shape, expanding its boundaries by sheer force of personality. The
flattened corners of the bezel are crafted in black PVD-coated
titanium, enveloping a similarly colored minute track. The
rose gold of the case then reappears as appliqué hour indexes, before the center of the satin-finished sunburst dial is
taken over by a day/month aperture, a moon phase indication
and a rhodium-plated snailed date display.
The movement inside lives up to its Geneva Seal certification, with Côtes de Genève finishing on its surfaces and an
overall level of excellence. Its RD821J movement is rhodiumplated and finely adjusted in five positions. Not just pretty to
look at, it also powers the semi-instantaneous perpetual calendar, the moon phase, as well as more pressing concerns,
such as hours and minutes.
Powered by the
automatic RD821J
movement, the La
Monégasque Perpetual
Calendar displays the day,
date, month, leap-year cycle
and moon phase within the confines of its uniquely shaped case.
Roger Dubuis
MONA-CHRONO
The La Monégasque Chronograph uses some of the same design elements as the Perpetual Calendar — an unconventionally shaped 44mm case, a circles-within-circles
motif — to a completely different effect than its collection-mate. Where the Perpetual Calendar suggests harmony, the Chronograph yields glossy excitement.
It achieves this dynamism through a skillful combination of texture, composition and an impactful use of color. On the dial, the chapter ring’s circular
grain surrounds the satin-brushed sunray center as both sections accommodate a small seconds and the
chronograph’s 30-minute
counter. A dash of red
around the dial’s
edge enlivens the
watch’s nearly
monochromatic
palette as it
forms a scale
for the
tachymeter.
THE BIG EASY
A 48mm case crafted in rose gold or titanium houses the Easy Diver Skeleton
Flying Tourbillon, whose inner workings are laid open for the world’s admiration. The titular complication rotates at a rate of one revolution per minute in
the 7:30 position, ensuring the accuracy of the hour and minute hands in the
center. The skeletonized bridges are coated with black PVD and circular
graining for a striking visual effect.
To achieve its remarkable look, the timepiece plays with the
opposing concepts of solidity and lightness. Within the bezel’s confines, everything is precise and delicate, with mostly empty space
surrounding the intricate movement and flying tourbillon. The bezel
itself, however, is chunky and masculine, with blocky numerals separated
by rough-hewn sections. Three lugs, instead of the usual two, give the
impression that the piece grips its strap with ferocious tenacity, emphasizing
the feeling of security and strength that contrasts with the fine measurements
of the movement visible within.
Top: The new RD680 powers the La Monégasque Chronograph with the habitual élan
of a Roger Dubuis caliber. Its 44mm case is presented in stainless steel (shown) or rose gold.
Left: The rose gold Easy Diver Skeleton Flying Tourbillon is fitted with a bezel whose robust
profile belies the intricate delicacy of its RD02SQ flying tourbillon movement.
74
CELLINI EXCLUSIVE
This contrast is mitigated in the Excalibur Skeleton Double
Flying Tourbillon, as the bezel has a smoother design and
the movement, graced with a second tourbillon, takes up
much more space within the white gold case. The oneminute tourbillons, one at 4:30 and the other at 7:30,
work their magic on a dial whose skeletonized decoration has been carefully designed to convey a sense
of movement and excitement.
Though the watch’s flange is usually bedecked with rubies or gold dots for hour markers, Roger Dubuis has created a special edition
that features blue sapphires in their stead.
Emphasizing the unique nature of this
variation, the brand has produced just
eight sapphire-adorned models. The only
place in the United States to find this exceptional timepiece is at Cellini Jewelers.
From top: With more than 560 diamonds on the case and
dial, the Excalibur Lady Jewelry lives up to its name.
A modest row of diamonds on the rose gold bezel frames
the Excalibur Lady Automatic’s sunburst dial.
The only place in the United States to see this rare
version of the Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon with
blue sapphire hour markers is at Cellini Jewelers.
LADIES’ CHOICE
A piece with an equally striking,
but completely different, look is
the Excalibur Lady Automatic.
Unmistakably Roger Dubuis,
this watch boasts the tapered
Roman numerals that are one of
the brand’s signatures. Making
their bold mark against the sunburst
dial, the numerals aestheticize the very
act of telling time. A small seconds at
6 o’clock stands out by its relative lack
of adornment.
Beautifully finished and flawlessly precise, the caliber inside
(RD821) has been awarded the Geneva Seal — like all Roger Dubuis
movements — and has also received chronometer certification
from the COSC. The 36mm rose gold case sports a finishing touch
with a discreet row of 48 diamonds, whose glitter and sparkle bring
out the satin smoothness of the dial.
Much less discreet — and, for some, more fun — is the diamond
explosion that invades the Excalibur Lady Jewelry. Crafted in white gold,
this self-assured piece is coated with 560 white diamonds. They adorn all
three lugs, the bezel, crown, case middle and every millimeter of the dial.
The brand’s trademark Roman numerals sit atop these precious
stones in a technical achievement that transforms the dial into a delightful layer cake. From the bottom up, it consists of a stratum of diamond
pavé, then a sapphire crystal upon which the numerals have been metalized, followed by the hour and minute hands, and finally another
sapphire crystal to protect this work of art. A watch this extraordinary
must necessarily be rare, and the Excalibur Lady Jewelry is available in a
limited edition of 88 pieces.
With innovative case shapes, deftly skeletonized flying tourbillons
or a splash of diamonds in all the right places, Roger Dubuis ensures
that its expertly crafted, beautifully finished movements have homes
befitting their excellence. ¨
75
Ulysse Nardin
The Planet Earth desk clock is part
of a 99-piece limited edition.
Across
The Universe
By jack
Forster
Ulysse Nardin is famous both for its historical achievements — the firm was one of Switzerland’s
foremost manufacturers of marine chronometers — and for its innovations in watchmaking,
which have revolutionized modern wristwatch design. The Ulysse Nardin Trilogy of Time
watches, for instance, are among the very few modern mechanical timepieces to offer such unusual
complications as a planetarium and astrolabe display.
I
n this rich tradition, Ulysse Nardin presents a clock
that offers a window into the heavens: the Planet Earth.
It shows the position of the Sun and Moon relative to any
location on the Earth’s surface, as well as the occurrence of
solar and lunar eclipses, and the position of the major constellations overhead.
The Planet Earth’s outermost sphere represents the
Earth’s surface and is engraved with outlines of the continents. Inside, a second transparent sphere decorated with
the major constellations rotates once every 23 hours, 56 minutes, and 4 seconds. This is the length of time known as the
sidereal day, the amount of time it takes for a given star to
return to the same apparent position in the sky.
Inside both spheres, a disk representing the Sun’s position over the Earth’s surface rotates once every 24 hours. A
solar day is slightly longer than a sidereal day, because the
Sun is much closer to the Earth and the daily change in the
Earth’s orbital position means the Sun takes longer to return
to the same apparent position in the sky. A second disk represents the Moon’s position relative to the Earth’s surface,
and rotates once every 24 hours, 52 minutes, and 42 seconds,
accounting both for the rotation of the Earth, and the Moon’s
movement along its orbit.
An especially sophisticated feature is the “dragon hand.”
It represents the position of the ascending and descending
nodes of the Moon, traditionally known as the “head and tail
of the dragon.” The Moon’s orbit is slightly tilted with respect to the ecliptic, which is the plane in which the Earth
and other planets orbit the Sun. This tilt means that the
Moon’s orbit crosses the plane of the ecliptic at two points
— the Moon’s orbital nodes. It is only when the Moon is at or
near one of its nodes that the Earth, Moon and Sun are in
orbital alignment, making a solar or lunar eclipse possible.
The Planet Earth also shows the local time via a conventional clock face, and is powered by a key-wound, 30-day
movement with power reserve indication. In the event the
clock is accidentally allowed to run down, a push button year
indication allows the astronomical functions to be quickly
and easily re-set. The base of this miniature universe is
mahogany with brass fittings — reminiscent of the gimbaled
boxes traditionally used for marine chronometers, the manufacture of which was historically one of Ulysse Nardin’s
specialities.
Inside a pair of clear spheres, two disks indicate the positions of the Sun
and Moon in relation to Earth’s surface. The blue “dragon hand,” working with the Sun and Moon discs, displays all solar and lunar eclipses.
77
Ulysse Nardin
Left: Three of the five figures on the Alexander
the Great Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon
Tourbillon Jacquemarts move when the watch
chimes the hours, quarter hours and minutes.
Below: A clear caseback showcases the intricacy
required to bring the watch to life.
Chiming In
Ulysse Nardin is also well known for its chiming
watches, especially those which incorporate
jacquemarts or “striking jacks” — figures
that move as the chimes ring the time.
This year Ulysse Nardin adds to its
repertoire with the Alexander the
Great Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jacquemarts. In addition to incorporating a tourbillon and minute
repeater, the Alexander the
Great has five figures on its polycrystalline diamond dial, three of
which move as the hours, quarter
hours and minutes sound. The Alexander the Great Minute Repeater
has four gongs, rather than the two
usually found in a minute repeater, and
it rings the quarter hours with the tune
known as the Westminster Chimes.
While a basic minute repeater is already
a rare and exclusive complication, the incorporation of the Westminster Chimes, a tourbillon and jacquemarts places the Alexander
the Great timepiece in a class by itself.
Crystal Blue Persuasion
The Ulysse Nardin Royal Blue Tourbillon
shares a similar architecture with the Alexander the Great in showing the tourbillon
through the dial, but goes one step further
in making the entire movement visible by
using transparent sapphire for the movement plates and bridges. The use of
transparent precious gemstones for
movement plates, like the use of jacquemarts, has been a tradition in
watchmaking for centuries,
although an extremely rare one.
The tourbillon — a rotating cage
intended to compensate for the effects of
gravity on the accuracy of a watch — usually has an upper bridge that partially blocks
the view of the complication. The Royal Blue,
however, uses a “flying” tourbillon, which has
no upper bridge. In combination with the transparent movement plates, the result is a watch of
almost magical transparency.
The Royal Blue Tourbillon is a continuation of
this venerable tradition, and this year’s new model
shows an even more luxurious face with a bezel and
buckle adorned with baguette-cut blue sapphires.
To achieve its revealing look, the Ulysse Nardin Royal Blue Tourbillon uses transparent sapphire for the movement plates and bridges.
Its platinum case is set with more than 16 carats of blue sapphire baguettes and nearly a carat of white diamond baguettes.
78
Turf and Surf
Ulysse Nardin enjoys a well-deserved reputation for innovation in perpetual calendars
as well. This complication incorporates a
calendar that automatically adjusts the
date for the correct length of each
month, even during a leap year.
T h e E l To r o P e r p e t u a l
Calendar makes a bold statement
both visually, with the t-shaped
“bull’s head” plate on the dial,
and technically with a perpetual
calendar that can easily be set
forwards or backwards using
only the crown. The latter represents an improvement over most
perpetual calendars, which are adjusted using inset pushers that require a
special tool to operate. The El Toro Perpetual Calendar also incorporates the
firm’s integrated second time zone indication, which is linked to the perpetual
calendar as well, keeping all indications
synchronized.
Ulysse Nardin’s close ties to the
nautical world express themselves this
year in the Marine Diver Black Sea.
Finished in a matte black rubber coating, the all-black stainless steel case
includes a unidirectional bezel with a
wave-pattern decoration setting off
its minute scale.
Unlike many all-black watches,
the Black Sea is still highly legible
thanks to the generous and intelligent use of vivid red luminous
material on the hands and dial
markers. Water resist ant to 200
meters, the Marine Diver Black Sea is
both a rugged, practical tool, and
a darkly handsome statement on
the wrist. ¨
Left: The El Toro Perpetual Calendar combines
Ulysse Nardin’s easy-to-use perpetual calendar
with a dual time zone function. The platinum
version shown here is part of a limited series of
500 pieces.
Water resistant to 200 meters, the Marine Diver Black Sea is housed in a black stainless steel case that is 45.8mm in diameter. The automatic
movement’s rotor, viewed through the clear back, is engraved with the brand’s trademark anchor, evoking its nautical heritage.
79
Vacheron Constantin
To clearly indicate
37 time zones simultaneously,
the rose gold Patrimony Traditionnelle
World Time lists cities in black that adhere to
traditional one-hour time zones and red for locations that use
30-minute or 15-minute offsets.
Modern World
By Michael
Thompson
When Vacheron Constantin debuted its first world time watch in 1932, the concept of
globalization was barely considered. Today, transportation and communication improvements
have transformed an entire planet into a global village.
W
ith the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time, the
Geneva firm captures the spirit of this ongoing
revolution by reducing our already shrinking
world to a size that fits comfortably on the wrist.
Unlike many world time watches that display
times in 24 of the world’s time zones, this innovative model displays 37 time zones, accounting
for the quarter-hour and half-hour deviations
scattered across the globe.
Vacheron Constantin reflects this vision
of interconnectedness through a mix of
visual artistry and advanced mechanics
that uses two dials that are in constant
motion. The first is a sapphire crystal — shaded on one half and clear
on the other — that acts as a day/
night indicator as it rotates above a
partial map of the Earth. The other
is a 24-hour ring that turns around
the dial’s outer edge. Used in concert with the listing of 37 cities on the
dial, the watch simultaneously displays
the times for all regions of the world.
To tame this highly technical mechanism
for everyday use, Vacheron Constantin created
a patent-pending system that allows the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time’s indications to
be adjusted using a single crown. The importance
of this innovation is clear when it comes time to
set the watch. First, the wearer selects a reference
city by turning the crown until the city’s name
aligns with the black triangle at 6 o’clock. Then, as the
central hour and minute hands are adjusted to the correct
local time, the other time zones automatically follow suit.
PERPETUALLY THIN
Vacheron Constantin continues to spotlight high complications in one of its signature collections with the Patrimony
Contemporaine Perpetual Calendar, presented
for the first time with a non-skeletonized dial.
The complexity of the firm’s in-house movement (Caliber 1120 QP) offers an effective counterweight to the clean, unmistakable elegance of the 41mm Patrimony case. Making
the combination even more impactful is
Vacheron Constantin’s ability to slip this
impressive caliber into a thin, rose
gold case that measures less than
9mm thick.
Highlighting a level of detail
enthusiasts have come to expect
from this renowned firm, the calendar indications are arranged
intuitively on the dial so that the
eye may quickly gather all the necessary information at a glance. Even so,
the desire to linger will be strong,
thanks to well chosen aesthetic touches
like the gently cambered opaline dial,
which is studded with gold cabochons to
form the minute track. Undoubtedly, the
moonphase will also draw accolades for its
vivid portrayal of the lunar cycle against a lapis
lazuli backdrop.
Now available in a non-skeletonized version,
the Patrimony Contemporaine Perpetual Calendar
features a moon phase made with lapis lazuli and a rare
48-month calendar display.
81
Vacheron Constantin
For this version of the Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph,
Vacheron Constantin pairs a white gold case with a rose gold
crown and pushers.
BRINGING HISTORY TO LIFE
When they were introduced
four years ago, Vacheron Constantin’s
Traditionnelle models — which are part
of the Patrimony
collection — were
distinguished by
the inclusion of features associated with
some of the brand’s iconic,
historical models.
Among the traits Traditionnelle watches
typically share are knurling around the screwdown caseback, faceted trapezoid hour markers, dauphine
hands and a fine bezel. Together, these characteristics form
a design code that unites past and present Patrimony
Traditionnelle models.
One of the latest is the Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph, which houses one
of the firm’s most esteemed mechanisms, Caliber 1141. Introduced two
decades ago, this exemplary column
wheel chronograph movement
has proven its reliability many
times over and has risen to become one of Vacheron Constantin’s finest achievements.
Despite its contemporary pedigree, the movement
draws heavily upon ideas that
date to the 1940s, an era many
look back on as the golden
age of chronograph design.
Caliber 1141 recalls that
period, not only with its
thin profile and beautiful
decoration, but also with
its retro dial, whose
uncluttered layout features two subdials instead
of the three commonly
used today.
82
NEW TRADITIONALIST
Vacheron Constantin raised eyebrows three years ago when it
introduced the Quai de l’Ile, a revolutionary concept in watchmaking that allowed aficionados
to create a personalized timepiece with options for everything from the dial
to the case metal.
With this bold
move, Vacheron
Constantin not
only helped define a new vision
of haute horlogerie,
but also provided a
vivid reminder that
during its more than
250 years of uninterrupted watchmaking, the historic firm has always mixed its
signature traditionalism with innovation.
The Quai
de l’Ile
Retrograde
Annual
Calendar’s
signature
function
requires
adjustment
only once
a year and
features an
attractive retrograde
date display. The clear
caseback reveals the
exquisite finishing that earned
the watch’s automatic movement
its Geneva Seal certification. The case comes
in rose or white gold, or a handsome combination of both.
Vacheron Constantin orchestrates those competing notions into a harmonious
accord with the Quai de l’Ile Retrograde Annual Calendar. This latest addition to
the Quai de l’Ile family maintains the line’s modern profile with the debut of a
new in-house movement, while at the same time subtly introducing classic
design elements to the watch’s contemporary mien.
The watch’s automatic caliber, newly crafted at the Vacheron Constantin manufacture, incorporates an annual calendar, one of horology’s
most practical complications. This complex mechanism automatically
accounts for the varying lengths of the months, except at the end of
February, when it requires a manual adjustment.
Running counter to the modern approach used for the movement,
the Retrograde Annual Calendar features a classic metal dial in place of
the high-tech, transparent designs used for the original Quai de l’Ile.
Offered in either gray or white, both new dials are embellished using
time-honored decorative techniques to create a satin-brushed center
and an opaline finish around the outer edge.
One thing Vacheron Constantin is unlikely to ever change, however,
is the impeccably high standards it maintains for finishing. Appropriately,
the caliber has been accorded the prestigious Geneva Seal, which can be
seen engraved on the movement through the watch’s clear caseback.
Worldly and Wise
Vacheron Constantin keeps its focus on sophisticated style with the Overseas Date
Self-Winding. Part of the company’s revered Overseas collection, this new addition
comes in an appealing 42mm rose gold case with a black dial, date display and luminescent accents.
The watch retains all
the identifying characteristics of the Overseas
collection, including a
soft-iron protective
cage whose antimagnetic properties
ensure the automatic movement
will run smoothly
regardless of how many
times you walk through
airport security.
Proving that being traditional does not mean standing
still, Vacheron Constantin enlivens
its deep-rooted heritage with the
sporty Overseas, modern Quai de l’Ile
and classic Patrimony collections. ¨
Above: The Quai de l’Ile Retrograde
Annual Calendar’s cushion-shaped
case, shown here in white gold,
comes with a new metal dial in gray.
Distinguished by the collection’s signature bezel, the Overseas Date Self-Winding combines debonair style with rugged construction designed
specifically to counter the rigors of daily use.
83
Zenith
This page and facing:
The Christophe Colomb, shown in a
45mm white gold case, maintains
chronometric precision with its
self-regulating gyroscopic module.
Plotting
A new Course
By Scott
Hickey
In the spirit of the intrepid explorer for which it’s named, the Christophe Colomb by ZENITH
blazes a path to a new horological world with a movement that is revolutionary in every sense.
D
eveloped at ZENITH’s manufacture in Le Locle,
Switzerland, the caliber achieves a remarkably high
level of chronometric precision using a regulating
module that rotates in multiple directions
to prevent rate deviations caused by gravity.
Touching on the watch’s nautical
theme, the mechanism’s sophisticated
design incorporates principles behind
the marine chronometer, a timekeeper
sailors relied upon for more than a
century to help navigate at sea. These
chronometers were suspended on
gimbals to remain horizontal —
a must to ensure accuracy —
regardless of a ship’s rocking
motion.
Similarly, the
Christophe Colomb’s
balance and escapement are contained
within a gyroscopic
cage that remains horizontal at all times despite the
wearer’s movements. The result is not only one of the most
precise movements on the market,
but also one of the most visually
captivating. The crystals on both
sides of the watch are domed to accommodate the mechanism and reveal
its full range of motion.
Competing Natures
Introduced in 2010 as part of Zenith’s Academy collection, the Christophe Colomb brilliantly expresses the manufacture’s haute horlogerie expertise.
The watch’s gyroscopic centerpiece is surrounded by decorative
details rendered elegantly by the
company’s artisans. The result is
a silvered dial finished with the
barleycorn pattern. Various displays punctuate these interlacing lines, including a small
seconds on one side, which
is positioned opposite an
indicator for the movement’s 50-hour power
reserve. The hours
and minutes are read
from an offset subdial, located at the
top of the dial. Its
round shape forms an
effective visual counterweight to the dome above
the gyroscopic cage, which
is situated below.
By juxtaposing these competing natures of artistry and
engineering, Zenith elevates the
Christophe Colomb into rarefied
horological territory.
Zenith
Good Vibrations
ZENITH made history in 1969 when it unveiled the El Primero,
a breakthrough in mechanical horology that remains the
world’s most accurate series-produced movement. It has retained this impressive distinction through the years because
of its high frequency, which is a measurement of how many
times the movement’s balance wheel completes half an oscillation (aka vibration) in an hour. The El Primero’s balance
wheel beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph), or ten times a
second. In contrast, most high-end watch movements beat at
a frequency of 28,800 vph, or eight times a second. In watchmaking, a higher frequency translates into better accuracy.
The El Primero’s path to success was nearly thwarted in
1975, however, by the proliferation of quartz technology. That
year, the American firm that owned ZENITH halted mechanical watch production and ordered the workshop to sell all
watchmaking equipment for scrap. Rather than throw away a
century’s worth of knowledge, watchmaker Charles Vermot
defied this directive by secretly cataloging and hiding essential production equipment while also documenting the production process. Vermot’s foresight was validated in 1984,
when ZENITH once again began producing mechanical
movements using the very tools he saved from the smelter.
Available in rose gold or stainless steel, the El Primero Tourbillon
uses a patented design to indicate the date around the tourbillon
carriage.
Prime Time
The limited edition El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th
measures events to the tenth of a second, the smallest increment
possible by a mechanical movement.
86
Since the El Primero’s return, ZENITH has used the versatile
movement to showcase its mastery of the chronograph complication. With the following trio, the firm explores the range
of its expertise.
The first example, and perhaps the most complex, is the
El Primero Tourbillon, a watch powered by the world’s only
high-frequency automatic movement to combine a chronograph and tourbillon.
Beyond its integral role in augmenting accuracy, the
tourbillon’s unconventional positioning at 11 o’clock also
contributes to the watch’s original design. ZENITH enhances
the look further with a small seconds hand turning above the
mechanism and a patented date display rotating around its
outer edge.
The next creation, El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking
10th, harnesses the caliber’s rate of 10 vibrations per second
to create a column wheel chronograph with flyback function
that measures time to the tenth of a second, which is
currently the most precise measurement possible by a
mechanical caliber.
When activated, the red chronograph hand races around
the dial once every 10 seconds. To read these precise results
clearly from the dial, the Striking 10th includes a dark blue
60-second counter and a dark gray 60-minute counter. ZENITH will produce the El Primero
Stratos Flyback Striking 10th in a limited edition of 1969 pieces, a tribute to the year
El Primero debuted.
The final member of this trinity is the El Primero Chronomaster Open. Its dial
opens to offer an intimate view of the movement’s trademark balance as it oscillates
at 36,000 vph. ZENITH pairs the watch’s impressive aesthetics with the superlative
performance of its column wheel chronograph to complete the design.
Despite their functional differences, all three of these El Primero movements
share the same handcrafted decoration, including Côtes de Genève stripes on the
rotor, which is partially skeletonized to form ZENITH’s trademark star. Today,
nearly 30 years after its rescue from the clutches of obscurity, it’s no surprise
why the El Primero finds itself on the short list of horological icons.
O Captain! My Captain!
More than 50 years after its launch,
the Captain collection continues to successfully navigate the
tides of change
like a cagey
skipper, staying the course
of traditional
watchmaking.
The Captain Moonphase
creates a timeless, yet vitally contemporary look, by bathing the pale dial’s
Clous de Paris pattern in the golden glow of a lunar
indicator. Despite its various functions, including a small seconds and instantaneous large date, the Captain Moonphase
maintains a thin (10.3mm) profile.
For the Captain Winsor Annual Calendar, ZENITH combines
several of its specialties in a timepiece that mixes traditional decoration and practical complication with the legendary precision
of its El Primero movement. The firm enhances the watch’s chronograph movement with an annual calendar function that displays the day, month and date, and requires only one annual
adjustment to compensate for February’s relatively short length.
On its fascinating journey from the Christophe Columb to
the Captain, ZENITH explores the depth of its artistry and expertise with a collection that embodies its passion for discovery. ¨
Top right: The El Primero Chronomaster Open’s dial reveals the constant
motion of the movement’s balance and escapement.
Top left: A self-winding movement powers the Captain Moonphase’s
large date and signature lunar display. Its 40mm case comes in either
rose gold or stainless steel.
An El Primero chronograph movement enhanced with an
annual calendar powers the Captain Winsor, which is offered
in rose gold (shown) or stainless steel.
87
Glossary
ClockWise
a glossary of horological terms
1. ANNUAL CALENDAR
A calendar function that automatically
compensates for the irregular lengths
of months. However, it requires an annual adjustment every February, hence
its name.
1a 1b
2. AUTOMATIC (or SELF-WINDING)
This complication replaces manual winding in wristwatches by converting the
wearer’s everyday motions into stored
energy, which powers the mechanical
movement. A winding box may also be
used to achieve the same results. For both
methods, the motion spins a rotor connected to the movement, which generates
energy by tightening the mainspring. It’s
also worth noting that an automatic movement may also be wound using the crown.
3. BALANCE
Similar to the pendulum in a pendulum
clock, this regulating mechanism ensures
a steady timekeeping rate in wristwatches. Comprised of a balance spring fixed
to a weighted balance wheel, the device is
connected to the mainspring. When the
mainspring releases energy, it swings the
balance wheel in one direction, called an
oscillation, which tightens the balance
spring. When the balance spring releases
this stored energy, it propels the balance
wheel back an equal distance in the opposite direction, transferring energy to the
drivetrain, which powers the watch movement. The balance’s precise back-andforth motion divides time into equal parts
and is the source of the watch’s signature
“tick-tock.”
88
2a 2b
3a 3b
1a. Quai de l’Ile Retrograde Annual Calendar by Vacheron Constantin
1b. Captain Winsor Annual Calendar by Zenith
2a. Jules Audemars Extra-Thin by Audemars Piguet
2b. Calibre de Cartier by Cartier
3a. Double Balance Spring assembly by Audemars Piguet
3b. Portuguese Automatic by IWC
4. Double-barrel by Audemars Piguet
5. Caliber RD821J by Roger Dubuis
6. Master Compressor Chronograph by Jaeger-LeCoultre
7a. Datograph by A. Lange & Söhne
7b. King Power Ayrton Senna by Hublot
8. L.U.C 1937 by Chopard
4 5
4. BARREL
This cylindrical receptacle is lined with
teeth around its circumference. It holds
the mainspring, which is attached at one
end to the barrel and at the other to the
arbor (axle) on which the barrel turns.
Winding the watch turns the barrel, which
increases the mainspring’s tension. After
winding, the mainspring slowly unwinds,
which turns the barrel and transfers energy to the geartrain, thereby powering the
watch movement.
5. CALIBER (or CALIBRE)
Originally referred to the measurement of
the watch movement, but modern usage
indicates a type of movement i.e. men’s
caliber, automatic caliber. Watchmakers
can use the caliber name and number to
indicate the company, shape and origin.
6 7a
6. CERAMIC
This material is used in watchmaking,
primarily for case production. Valued for
its qualities, ceramic is 30 percent lighter
than steel, virtually scratchproof, impervious to rust and smooth to the touch.
7. CHRONOGRAPH
A watch with a manually operated stopwatch function that measures intervals
of time.
In addition to the basic chronograph,
there are two other popular versions:
7b 8
Flyback: allows instant reset of the timing function.
Split-second: allows simultaneous timing of two events that begin at the same
time but end at different times.
8. CHRONOMETER
A timepiece that is precise enough to be
used as a time standard. Under Swiss
regulations, only watches that have been
tested and certified by authorities such as
the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) can be called a chronometer.
89
Glossary
9. COLUMN WHEEL
Used in high-quality chronograph movements, this toothed wheel coordinates the
chronograph’s start, stop and reset functions. A traditional design, the column
wheel is more labor-intensive to produce
than other styles of chronographs.
10. COMPLICATION
Any function in a manual-winding movement watch or clock additional to the
display of hours, minutes and seconds
including: automatic winding, date, moon
phase, power reserve, GMT and full
calendar. The ultimate or grand complications typically include: split-second
chronograph, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and minute repeater.
9 10
11 12
11. Côtes de Genève (or Geneva Stripes) Created by a rose engine lathe, this pattern of undulating waves is used frequently to decorate movements found in fine
timepieces.
12. DEPLOYMENT BUCKLE
A tri-folding enclosure affixed to both
ends of a strap or bracelet. When fully
deployed, enough room is created to place
the watch on the wrist. When closed,
a buckle covers the folding mechanism
that secures the watch to the wrist.
13. DUAL TIME ZONE (or GMT)
This complication allows a watch to display two or more time zones simultaneously. While watchmakers use many different ways to display the dual time zone
function, one of the most popular methods uses an additional hour hand. Timepieces with a dual time zone function are
sometimes called GMT watches. This refers to Greenwich Mean Time, the mean
solar time for the meridian located at
Greenwich, England. This time is used as
the basis for calculating time throughout
most of the world.
90
13a 13b
9. Column wheel by Vacheron Constantin
10. Portuguese Perpetual Calendar by IWC
11. Transforma Chronograph by Parmigiani Fleurier
12. Cellini’s exclusive deployment buckles in 18-karat gold
13a. Saxonia Dual Time by A. Lange & Söhne
13b. Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon by Audemars Piguet
14 15
16a 16b
17a 17b
14. Christophe Colomb Equation of Time by Zenith
15. Illustration of Lange 31 escapement by A. Lange & Söhne
16a. Geneva Seal logo
16b. Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon by Roger Dubuis
17a. Délices de Cartier by Cartier
17b. Kalpa Donna by Parmigiani Fleurier
14. EQUATION OF TIME
A complication that calculates the difference between the mean solar day which
lasts 24-hours, and the true solar day,
whose length varies from the mean solar day between +16.24 and -14.22 minutes throughout the year due to tilt of the
Earth’s axis and the eccentricity of its orbit
around the Sun.
15. ESCAPEMENT
The component of a mechanical watch
that is responsible for the advancement of the wheel train rotation and the
even passage of time. The escapement
in a watch is usually controlled by the
balance wheel.
16. Geneva Seal Available exclusively to watch movements
made in the City or Canton of Geneva, this
insignia certifies that a movement has satisfied a list of criteria related to the quality
and finishing of all its components. The
Geneva School of Watchmaking serves
as the independent judge charged with
inspecting each watch and awarding this
prestigious accolade to those that meet
the necessary requirements.
17. Guilloché
An engraving technique that results
in very fine patterns etched onto a flat,
level surface. The interlaced and crossing
lines of guilloché designs can be turned by
hand or machine. Watch manufacturers
use this technique to decorate the dial and
movement components. The beauty is evident in the intricate detail of the ensuing
designs.
91
Glossary
18. JEWELS
Refers to the precious stones (usually synthetic rubies) used in a watch movement
that act as bearings for pivots and help reduce friction. Most movements contain at
least a dozen jewels but can feature more.
18. Caliber 1120 QP by Vacheron Constantin
19. Rotonde de Cartier Jumping Hours by Cartier
20a. Chopard Manufacture, Fleurier, Switzerland
20b. Cartier Manufacture, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
21a. Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time by A. Lange & Söhne
21b. Alexander the Great Minute Repeater by Ulysse Nardin
18 19
19. JUMPING HOUR
A watch that advances the time by
“jumping” to the next hour, usually
through a digital display window. Jumping hour watches use mechanical movements with numbers on wheels below the
dial that change as time advances. The
numbers appear to change immediately
every hour.
20. MANUFACTURE
A term the Swiss watch industry uses
to distinguish a company that produces
a watch from start to finish, instead of
sending it to a finishing shop where the
parts are assembled and calibrated.
21. MINUTE REPEATER
A mechanical watch that indicates the
hours, quarter hours and minutes with
sound by striking a series of gongs
integrated into the watch movement.
A minute repeater strikes the time on
demand when a button or slide on the
case is pushed. The complication first
emerged in watches in the 1700s and is an
heir to the repeating clock, which was invented in the 17th century to tell time in
the dark prior to the use of electric lights.
Today, minute repeaters remain one of
the most complex watch complications
to produce.
92
20a 20b
21a 21b
22 23
22. MOON PHASE
This complication calculates and displays
the lunar cycle. Many moon phases advance once every 24 hours, which requires
that they be adjusted every two and a half
years. More complex models do not require adjustments for hundreds of years.
23. PAVÉ
Gems set as closely together as possible
in order to conceal a metal base.
24a 24b
25 26
24. PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Just as the name implies, this watch
has a built-in calendar that calculates
the date, day, month and leap year
without any adjustment by the user.
This remains true until the year 2100,
when there is no leap year due to the
Gregorian calendar. All watches record time, the moments that make up
a day, but perpetual calendars keep track
of all of those days. Depending on the
watch, there are many different types of
indicators that display the specific day,
date and month.
25. POWER RESERVE
This function measures and displays the
remaining power supply generated by
winding a movement.
22. DB25QP by De Bethune
23. Excalibur Lady Jewelry by Roger Dubuis
24a. La Monégasque Perpetual Calendar by Roger Dubuis
24b. Master Eight Days Perpetual Calendar by Jaeger-LeCoultre
25. Portofino Hand-Wound 8 Days by IWC
26. Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” by A. Lange & Söhne
26. REGULATOR
A clock or wristwatch that displays the
hours, minutes and seconds separately.
Sometimes called a parent clock, manufacturers used to set their timepieces
to precise regulators because the separate
displays were easy to read, making for
exact adjustments.
93
Glossary
27. RETROGRADE
A hand that travels across the dial in an
arc — usually from 90 to 180 degrees —
instead of a 360-degree revolution around
a centrally fixed pin. When a retrograde
hand finishes its journey across the dial,
it returns instantaneously to begin a new
measurement. Retrograde hands can indicate date, day or month in perpetual
calendars, but can also be used for hours,
minutes or seconds.
27. Academia Quantième Perpétuel Sport by DeWitt
28. Caliber 2120 by Audemars Piguet
29. Caliber UN 106 with silicium hairspring by Ulysse Nardin
30a. Pasha Skeleton Flying Tourbillon by Cartier
30b. Skeletonized movement plate by Jaeger-LeCoultre
31. La Monégasque Chronograph by Roger Dubuis
27 28
28. Rotor (or OSCILLATING WEIGHT)
In a self-winding watch, this heavy, metal
semicircle rotates inside the case powered
by the wearer’s natural movements, thereby winding the mainspring.
29. SILICON (or SILICIUM)
An element used in watchmaking to
create everything from escapement wheels
to balance springs. Prized for its properties, silicon is lightweight, anti-magnetic,
resists corrosion and does not require
lubrication.
30. SKELETON
A watch movement that is transparent
or cut out in a decorative manner in
order to reveal all of the movement’s
parts. Traditional watch dials display the
current functions of time, date or day
for a specific moment in time. A skeletal
dial further reveals the watch’s movement
and how its mechanism calculates ongoing time.
31. Tachymeter A scale that often accompanies a chronograph or timer that measures speed.
A tachymeter usually indicates speed in
kilometers per hour.
94
29 30a
30b 31
32a 32b
33 34
35 36
32. TOURBILLON
Sometimes referred to as a ‘whirlwind,’ the
tourbillon counteracts the effects of gravity on the balance and escapement thus
aiding better accuracy. This is achieved by
housing the balance, balance spring and
escapement in a carriage (cage) rotating
once a minute. Invented by AbrahamLouis Breguet in 1801, the tourbillon
remains a popular complication.
33. TRAIN (or GOING TRAIN)
A system of toothed wheels and pinions
used to convey energy stored in the mainspring to the escapement.
34. VIBRATION
It is the number of times a balance wheel
completes half an oscillation in an hour. In
a typical movement, the balance wheel may
complete six vibrations per second (21,600
vph). But in a high-frequency movement,
the balance wheel beats between seven times
a second (25,200 vph) and 10 times a second
(36,000 vph). As a general rule for watch
movements, the higher the frequency, the
better the accuracy.
35. WATER RESISTANT
A watch designed to prevent water from
entering the case. An atmosphere (atm)
is the measurement used to gauge how
water resistant a watch is. Watches rated 3 atm resist infiltration by water to a
conventional depth of 30 meters; rated
5 atm resists to a conventional depth of
50 meters.
2a. Royal Blue Tourbillon by Ulysse Nardin
3
32b. DB28T by De Bethune
33. Illustration of Caliber 380 by Jaeger-LeCoultre
34. Caliber 4101OR by Audemars Piguet
35. Oceanographic 4000 by Hublot
36. Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time by Vacheron Constantin
36. WORLD TIME
Refers to a watch that indicates the local
time in major cities around the world,
usually representing each of the 24 time
zones. The names of the cities are typically displayed on an outer ring on the dial or
on the bezel of the watch. ¨
95
HOTEL WALDORF-ASTORIA
301 PARK AVENUE
212-751-9824
509 MADISON AVENUE
AT 53RD STREET
212-888-0505
800-CELLINI
NEW YORK, NY 10022
www.CelliniJewelers.com
Rose-cut Pink sapphires
accented with diamonds
in 18-karat rose gold
Cufflinks in 18-karat gold
HOTEL WALDORF-ASTORIA
301 PARK AVENUE
212-751-9824
www.CelliniJewelers.com
800-CELLINI
NEW YORK, NY 10022
509 MADISON AVENUE
AT 53RD STREET
212-888-0505