A Winning Recipe at Abruzzi

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
№ 36 • July/August 2012
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ANNIVERSARY
ISSUE
A Winning
Recipe at
Abruzzi
London-Friendly,
Italian-Inspired
AND FEATURING
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STR ATFO RD
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contents
18
ISSUE № 36
F O O D W R I T E R AT L A R G E
10 Thoughts About a Red-Letter Day
84 A Big Night Birthday
By BRYAN LAVERY
22
R E S TAU R A N T S
5
JULY/AUGUST 2012
ANNIVER
SARY
ISSUE
14
Abruzzi Is Italian-Inspired & London-Friendly
18
OPA! A Greek Restaurant Round-Up, in London
By BRYAN LAVERY
By JANE ANTONIAK
42 Killer Desserts & Café, in Port Stanley
By DEBRA BAGSHAW
50 Alternate Grounds Dockside, in Sarnia
By JANE ANTONIAK
28
FA R M E R S & A R T I S A N S
22 Savour Stratford Perth Co. Culinary Experience
By DAVID HICKS
38 Clovermead & the A, Bee, C’s of Honey, near Aylmer
By DARIN COOK
C U L I N A RY R E TA I L
28 Twisted But Not Broken: Goderich Rebuilds
By JANE ANTONIAK
34
42
34 Add a Smoker to Your Barbecue Repetoire
By JANE ANTONIAK
T R AV E L
46 Discovering Escoffier, in His Hometown
By ANN McCOLL LINDSAY
N E W & N O TA B L E
52 The BUZZ
THE BUZZ
B E E R M AT T E R S
65 Summer Patio Idyll
By THE MALT MONK
WINE
68 Simple Pleasures: Summertime Wine Selections
By RICK VanSICKLE
50
C U L I N A RY E D U C AT I O N
72 Giving and Growing at The London Food Bank
By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD
BOOKS
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By DARIN COOK
COOKBOOKS
76 Rob Rainford’s Born to Grill
80 La Tartine Gourmande by Béatrice Peltre
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Reviews and Recipe Selection by JENNIFER GAGEL
THE LIGHTER SIDE
86 Going Gluten-Free
By JUDY J. THOMPSON
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tidbits
Happy Anniversary ... To Us!
By CHRIS McDONELL, eatdrink Publisher
O
strong group of creative people. I am mindn the occasion of our Fifth Anniful of the help that I get every issue. I lean
versary, I am pleased to report
that our magazine has never been on Bryan Lavery more than I should, and he
gives generously. This magazine would not
stronger. We have increased our
be thriving after five years without his many
print run by 25% with this issue while also
contributions. Likewise, Jane Antoniak
growing our online readership. We
works hard while wearing several hats,
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If this is your first time picking up
ISSUE
continuous sounding board, and Jodie
eatdrink, welcome! If you are a regwrit
Renner help our crack team of writular reader, thanks for following us.
ers — what a stellar troop — truly excel.
ve allowed us to blow our own horn
I’ve
a little in this issue. If we’ve learned anything Mike Bell manages most of the finances and
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over the past five years, it is to celebrate the
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food writer at large
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By BRYAN LAVERY
E
atdrink magazine is celebrating
its fifth anniversary this summer,
and not a week goes by that we
don’t hear praise for our efforts
to provide an enjoyable, readable and
informative culinary magazine. New
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distribution boxes, more are wondering
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Of course this is due to
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On this occasion, I feel
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redoubtable Kathy McLaughlin from
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For those of you who are reading
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There are plenty of restaurants
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Hopefully we will get to all
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There are several slanderous (there are other
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ANNIVERSARY
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L ocation
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Enchiladas
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helping to arbitrate the standards of dining
out. If you don’t have a good, strong food
media — whether you love them or despise
them — you don’t have the same degree of
interest, enthusiasm and accountability.
One of the greatest satisfactions about
writing a column on the culinary scene is
unearthing the diamond in the rough. In
my opinion, among the disappointments
are discovering restaurants that don’t live
up to their reputations, or the complaining
owner who has lost interest in the business
and the writing is on the wall. Almost as
bad is the culinary equivalent of grey: dull
at worst, inoffensive at best. Or the onetrick pony — the great restaurant whose
menu never changes, and quickly the food
becomes stagnant.
Even more obnoxious are those louche
servers who ride on the chef’s laurels
and the restaurant’s former accolades,
thinking the chef’s/restaurant’s reputation
gives them carte blanche to dispense
rude, apathetic or poor service to their
customers. For instance, there was the
time when a manager/waiter, despite our
request to sit at the bar, seated me and a
colleague beside the door leading to the
basement and then proceeded to ignore
us. He seemed to be feeling particularly
officious, his eyelids flickering with
impatience. But you know, who cares,
right? He sure as heck didn’t.
Despite the changing definition of
restaurant professionalism, poor customer
service and unfriendly reservation policies
disappoint us, and good service fosters
Jody & Josh Stall
NOW
OPEN!
UPFRONT AT THE MARKET
130 KING STREET, LONDON | 519.675.1020
12
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loyalty, which in turn inspires repeat
business and great word-of-mouth. Every
time I return to certain restaurants, it hits
me just how much uninterested
service irks me and how
profoundly irritated its
patrons must feel, even
when the food is the
cream of the crop.
Writing about
restaurants brings
unique challenges.
Often I am offered
invitations with
the underlying
implication that
in return the
invitee will receive
an exaggerated
endorsement by me. This
is just grasping at straws;
fabricated enthusiasm and
lazy hyperbole do restaurateurs and
the reader no favours. A glowing article
about a restaurant can set expectations
so high that they may be difficult for the
restaurant to maintain on a daily basis.
5
IVERSARY
ISSUE
Sometimes the food may be tremendous,
with the perfect calibration of flavours,
but the service wanting. Other times the
service is top-notch but the food anemic and
undistinguished, and the experience feels
like something that needs to be endured.
Reading someone else’s assessment of a
restaurant is not necessarily enough for every
reader to evaluate a restaurant. The real way
to do a restaurant justice is to eat there.
In closing, I think that someone should
give our publisher at eatdrink, Chris
McDonell, a culinary award. His intelligence,
charm and discretion have done much
to foster the local and regional food
community. We are all much more than just
culinary gadflys; we are savvier and more
gastronomically astute than we were when
we started. Five years ago, when I agreed to
write for eatdrink, it was truly a red-letter day
for me. I look forward to continued affiliation
of many more years.
BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known chef, culinary activist and
writer. Mr. Lavery has spent many years in teaching, consulting,
and advisory roles with various culinary initiatives.
www.eatdrink.ca
FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON’S CULINARY
CULTURE IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR
WWW.LONDONTOURISM.CA/CULINARY
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restaurants
Italian-Inspired ... London-Friendly
Abruzzi captures the essence of Italian cooking and hospitality
By BRYAN LAVERY
A
s anyone who reads
this column regularly
is aware, I have been a
student of the Italian
kitchen for the last twentyfive years, sot genuine Italian
regional cooking resonates
with me. Abruzzi is London’s
premiere Italian-inspired
restaurant, an up-to-date
epicurean hotspot serving
both modern and emblematic
regional specialties.
When the restaurant changed
hands a year and a half ago and
Karen Brown and Chef Josie
Pontarelli left, I feared what
might happen to Abruzzi, one
of my favourite restaurants. I
need not have worried; it turned out to be
a very smooth transition on all fronts. New
owners, Chef Dave Lamers and Rob D’Amico,
and their staff have not only dialled up
the experience but have for the most part
maintained the food credentials. Lamers
tells me, “Our menus are more Londonfriendly, beef tenderloin versus beef cheeks.”
Which, I imagine, we are to interpret as this
incarnation of Abruzzi as being less elitist.
That Abruzzi is on the extremely short list
of good Italian restaurants serving great food
Abruzzi owners Chef Dave Lamers and Rob D’Amico
makes it one of the most exciting restaurants
in London. That it is in walking distance of
the John Labatt Centre and the dining room
looks out onto the Covent Garden Market
square are additional bonuses.
On Abruzzi’s newly updated website, the
restaurant is billing itself as a neighbourhood eatery — which I find to be a misnomer,
invoking images of all-you-can-eat spaghetti
and meatballs. The restaurant is in fact part
downtown neighbourhood bistro and part
chic dining room. It is not to be mistaken for
A view from the open (in season) front window looking in, left, and a view from the back looking out to King Street
the ersatz trattorias that seem to have a pathological
focus on faux Italian cuisine.
Abruzzi is well-groomed but casual, with an
elegant white marble bar just inside the front
entrance. There is an elevated communal table in
the centre of the dining room that seats eight. The
chairs and banquettes are comfortable enough for
a three-hour sitting. The simple, striking décor with
bare brick walls and lots of mirrors, the innovative
lighting, and the friendly ambience are all central to
the Abruzzi experience.
The menu offerings capture the essence of Italian
cooking. They are intuitive, often iconic, prepared
with locally-sourced and quality ethnic ingredients,
executed with skill and an eye to detail. The kitchen
has a long-standing commitment to procuring local
and sustainable ingredients.
Chef Lamers has the ability to take the earthy
Italian culinary vocabulary and imbue it with both
his idiosyncratic style and a culinary dialect that is
responsive to the seasons. Lamers stresses simplicity
and freshness as foundations of the Abruzzi kitchen
philosophy. This is the authentic gastronomic spirit
that makes cooking and eating absolutely central to
family life, whichever part of Italy you are in.
There is a lot to like on the menu. Signature dishes
include an appetizer of perfectly cooked Grilled
Octopus, with roasted grape tomato, olives, arugula,
fingerling potatoes and romesco (red bell pepper)
sauce; and the creamy, all’onda (wavy), and perfectly
al dente Prosciutto Risotto with local asparagus, leek,
grape tomatoes, toasted pine nuts, lemon and fresh
basil, which is magnificent. Braised Local Rabbit
with house-made pillow-shaped gnocchi, arugula
and house-made ricotta has a delicious subtle game
flavour. The Grilled Beef Tenderloin, with crispy
gnocchi, mushrooms, spinach, green beans, red wine
and veal stock reduction is a house favourite. Juicy
slices of Everspring Farms Duck Breast accompanied
by oyster mushrooms, Swiss chard, caramelized baby
carrots, and house-made butternut squash tortellini
with dried cherry jus all combine to create a faultless
marriage of flavours. This is a stellar dish and dropdead delicious when ordered medium-rare.
At lunch there with my parents, my mother, a
true epicurean, raves about the Grilled Chicken
Panini with sundried tomato pesto, goat cheese and
provolone. Italian-Style Meatloaf wrapped with Wild
Boar Bacon served on soft polenta with sautéed rapini
and tomato sauce is true comfort food.
At dinner with my nephew, we are unnecessarily
shown the back of the room. Nick orders the thinly
sliced Beef Carpaccio with truffle aioli, sorrel,
quail egg, pecorino, and Tuscan olive oil, which I
assure him is a consistent winner. Being far from
a capricious eater, he follows this course with the
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15
The Abruzzi menu offerings capture the
essence of Italian cooking, prepared
with locally-sourced and quality ethnic
ingredients, executed with skill and
an eye to detail. Chef Lamers stresses
simplicity and freshness as foundations of
the Abruzzi kitchen philosophy.
16
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Chef Dave Lamers and his kitchen staff
Supreme of Roasted Chicken, which is
served with fingerling potatoes, nutty
rapini, and a harmonizing lemon jus.
Chef tells me the menu is designed to be
accessible and youth friendly. The current
menu offers four pizzas: Prosciutto, potato,
red onion, mozzarella, garlic and olive oil;
Mozzarella di buffala, tomato sauce and
basil; Abruzzese and soprassetta salami,
fresh chilies and mozzarella; and artichoke
hearts, olives, grape tomato, and mozzarella,
finished with house-made ricotta.
The family of co-owner Rob D’Amico, a
veteran local restaurateur, originates from
Frosinone in the region of Lazio, a stone’s
throw from the Abruzzi border. I have
known Rob for many years and I recall a
meal of delicious honeycombed tripe and
fragrant tomato sauce that his mother
prepared for me some twenty years ago at
his former restaurant, Caffé Antico.
At Abruzzi the service is palpable,
attentive, polished and knowledgeable. On
many occasions water is refilled promptly,
silverware and additional plates are
proffered as required, napkins are elegantly
refolded when we leave the table, and
dishes are effortlessly split when requested.
D’Amico is a gracious host, hospitality
personified, and, like the staff at Abruzzi,
on his game. Abruzzi has retained its
team of mature, well-seasoned (Lamers’
adjective, not mine) staff, and still has 90%
of its original full-time employees.
In the many meals I have enjoyed at
Abruzzi, I’ve only had one hesitation:
Whole-wheat angel-hair pasta with shrimp,
scallops, tomatoes, basil, white wine, olive
oil and pecorino smelled of beautifully
balanced flavours at the table
next to me, but in reality the
seafood was overdone and the
pasta, although delicious, was
on the cool side. It was Lamers’
day off. These are minor caveats
— nothing in the restaurant
business is ever flawless — and
it puts the exquisiteness of
many fine meals at Abruzzi in
perspective.
The superior wine list has
plenty of interesting consignments; it reads like the Magna
Carta and like the cuisine,
is never static, changing to
reflect the seasons. The staff
prepare an excellent Café Latte. The restaurant and its owners are both genuine
and unfeigned.
Abruzzi
119 King Street, London
519-675-9995
www.abruzzi.ca Twitter @AbruzziLondon
The owners relax at the white marble bar
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restaurants
OPA! A Greek Restaurant Round-Up
The Dancing Greek, The Mythic Grill & Mykonos, in London
By JANE ANTONIAK
Photography by BRUCE FYFE
L
ondon has enjoyed a long
connection to Greece through
a steady stream of immigration
over the years. When the first
arrivals started opening small family
restaurants, locals came to discover a
delightful Mediterranean cuisine. Places
such as Mykonos on Adelaide and the
Huron House on Highbury first offered
Canadian versions of their foods and the
The Dancing Greek
For 50 years the Agathos family, led by
grandfather Jim and then taken on by
his daughter Effie and now his grandson
Zack, has been serving countless meals
and drinks to loyal patrons at the former
Huron House (now The Dancing Greek) and
Jimmy’s Tavern. A popular spot for meetings
and large groups, the restaurant has been
renovated to recreate the atmosphere of
a Greek taverna, complete with bouzouki
players on Friday
and Saturday
nights, large
family-style
servings of
traditional Greek
foods, and a
warm, friendly
atmosphere that
welcomes people
of all ages. At
The Dancing
Greek, it’s all
about family
and relaxing
with affordable
1
and generous
(1) Zack Agathos in the newly renovated Dancing Greek
Taverna; (2) plentiful platter of lamb, roasted potatoes
and vegetables; (3) three generations of Agathos family
ownership at Dancing Greek: Effie, Jimmy & Zack.
ever popular fish and chips, souvlaki and
gyros. Today, with our broadened tastes,
we can now enjoy traditional Greek dishes
like rich moussaka, dolmades and zesty
lamb — hold the mint sauce and bring on
the lemons. Today, the third generation of
those original Greek restaurateurs is now
putting an even more modern spin on the
Mediterranean cuisine of their forefathers.
For this, we are thankful!
servings of homemade foods, including
daily specials of goat, rabbit, or lamb.
“I just want this place to keep on going,”
says Zack. At 25, he grew up in the building.
After going to school in Halifax and Calgary,
he made a conscious decision to return to
London to work in the business. “I want
people to see the Greek side of things through
2
3
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this place and just be happy,” he says with a
genuine smile. Zack pays sincere tribute to
his grandfather and Aunt Effie for the years
of hard work they poured into the business.
With their support, he wants to continue the
family tradition by taking the new version of
the place into the future. The tavern features
hand-painted Greek murals and big tables for
large families or groups. “I have something
my grandpa built and I can put a fresh
modern twist on it,” he says with excitement.
The calamari appetizer is deliciously
light and plentiful. Served with a wholegrain mustard sauce made in-house, it’s
sure to please several people who want to
share. The Dancing Greek also has some
The Mythic Grill
The hidden gem on the Greek food tour of
London is The Mythic Grill, on Albert Street
near Richmond. With seating for 34 inside
and another 18 on the popular
patio, it’s not always the
easiest place to get into (no
reservations on weekends),
but you will experience an
eclectic, vibrant, modern
take on Greek cuisine. This
is the downtown go-to place
for a higher-end date night
or special occasion for those
who love rich, earthy décor
complete with Greek statues
and a cute corner booth. With
Greek music emanating from
the sound system, you can sip
1
unique dishes, including a shrimp and
pasta bowl with a parmesan cheese sauce
flavoured with dill and lemon. The meats
rule the restaurant, especially for those
looking for a bargain price on a platter of
lamb. “Nothing is complex, but it’s all made
here,” he says. Zack exudes a true zest for
life and a passion for his Greek heritage.
“Everyone who comes for a meal deserves
to be respected,” he says sincerely.
The Dancing Greek
1345 Huron Street (SE corner plaza at Huron
and Highbury), London
519-451-1420
www.dancinggreek.com
on an Ivi orange or lemon-lime soda from
Greece as you await a sizzling saganki or
succulent calamari. And they’re known for
their crispy, light baklava,
so you definitely want to
save room for dessert at
Mythic. Light, tender lamb
chops are a signature dish
and, combined with the
atmosphere, the experience
certainly appeals to young
professionals, hip boomers
or those looking for an
experience evening.
Constantine Kappos
bought the restaurant in
2009. Working with Chef
Dee Gerth and a staff of four
in the kitchen, Constantine
2
works all aspects of the
service. Having grown up
in the restaurant business — his parents
owned the Melody Restaurant on Dundas
3
(1) Mythic Grill owner Constantine
Kappos impresses with the flaming
saganaki; (2) the intimate dining
room; (3) succulent breaded calamari
paired with Greek wine; (4) lamb
chops — a signature dish.
4
19
20
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Street and he worked at Fellini Koolini’s
for 15 years — Constantine is thrilled to
own and operate his own place as a tribute
to his family’s homeland. “This place
reminds me of Greece,” he says. “I haven’t
yet compromised on food quality. The
food costs have gone through the roof but
Mykonos
A hug from Hiedi Vamvalis isn’t on the
menu at the beloved Mykonos, but it certainly is de rigueur for her legion of fans.
Mykonos is Hiedi and Bill Vamvalis, and the
love they share permeates the atmosphere.
“We’re very comfortable here. We know who
we are. We fit here perfectly,” says Hiedi,
who wears her authenticity on her sleeve
along with her very big heart. She loves to
tell guests the story of how she met Bill, and
his journey to London where they opened
Mykonos in 1974. “He saved my life, literally,” she enthuses. The story goes that Bill,
a dashing young man spending a day on a
beach in his native Greece, dove into the
sea to save a drowning Hiedi, who was touring the country
from Canada.
1
And they’ve
been together
ever since. They
live next to the
restaurant with
their daughter. Another
daughter lives in
Toronto.
Mykonos
started as a fish
and chip shop,
4
I won’t compromise on that. It tastes so
good because it’s fresh.”
The Mythic Grill
179 Albert Street, London
519-433-0230
www.mythicgrill.ca
and that item is still popular today. But what
excites Hiedi is when people embrace a
small-plates menu combined with a growing selection of Greek wines. The woodsmoked pork sausage, the silky smooth
gigantes in a tomato herb sauce, the creamy,
ultra-garlicky scordalia, dolmathaki,
spanakopita, and calamari are all paired
with interesting Greek wines served by the
glass. With some coaching (how can anyone
refuse Hiedi?) we try the Moschofilero Mantinia Retsina, which is surprisingly refreshing, especially with the calamari.
“I just want wholesome simplicity,” says
Hiedi. “I just love to eat like this. I feel
drunk on life — living like this could make
me fall in love all over again.”
All food at Mykonos is prepared in
house, from scratch, in the tiny open galley
kitchen by a team of cooks. Hiedi and Bill
can be found at the first booth inside the
door, looking onto the kitchen. Service is
2
3
(1) Owner Hiedi
Vamvalis with
bartender Sheila
Nitschke on the patio;
(2) a trio of apps
including gigantes,
scordilia, and tzatziki;
(3) Moschofilero
Mantinia Retsina
paired with crispy
calamari; (4) the
always popular
Mykonos platter.
prompt and guests
enjoy sitting in the
year-round covered
patio out back.
Sheila Nitschke
has taken a special
interest in serving
wines at Mykonos,
and she encourages
sampling by the
glass to pair with
each plate. “This is a
very European type
of restaurant. We
have people who come in and sit for four
hours — they can sit and relax. Or, if they
tell us they need to be in and out in 45 minutes, we can handle that, too,” says Sheila.
And throughout the evening, Hiedi greets
her guests. She thoroughly enjoys making a
connection with people. “It makes me more
alive,” she says. And, even after all these
years, she isn’t thinking at all of retirement.
“I’m just squeezing as much life from this
place as I can. I want to end this love affair
on a high note. But how can I really leave?
That’s the question I can’t answer. I identify
with this place with my whole soul.”
Bonnie’s ‘Tole’ House
Unique Handpainted Gifts
Mykonos
572 Adelaide Street North, London
(519) 434-6736
www.mykonosrestaurant.ca
JANE ANTONIAK first fell in love with Greek food when she
travelled to Greece in 1988. Now, under the guidance of the Saldaris
family in London, she has embraced the Greek way of life.
BRUCE FYFE is a freelance photographer and research
librarian at Weldon Library, Western. He also loves to cook and
shares his passion for cuisine through his photography.
Hand-painted glassware, plates, coffee mugs, flower vases,
wood trays, small tables and handmade jewellery
519-951-1777
www.bonniestolehouse.ca
Where can you get the Freshest
Extra Virgin Olive Oils on the Planet?
The
Pristine
live
462 Cheapside Street (@ Maitland)
London, Ontario
519-433-4444
Tasting
Bar
Come in Today and Select Your Oil Based on Chemistry and Taste!
www.thepristineolive.ca
Extra Virgin Olive Oils, Fused and Infused Olive Oils, Aged White and Dark Balsamic Vinegars, Specialty Oils and Vinegars, Gourmet Salts, Rubs, Sauces and Jams, Accessories
22
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farmers & artisans
Award-Winning Culinary Experiences
Enjoy September’s Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival
By DAVID HICKS
Photos courtesy of Savour Stratford
I
t’s a harvest weekend for all the
senses — eat, shop, sip, learn,
sample, laugh, even dance — from
the Artisanal Bacon & Heritage
Eggs Breakfast, to the Sustainable Fish &
Sake pairing, to Cheesemaking at Home.
Stratford will once again double in size
during the fifth annual Savour Stratford
Perth County Culinary Festival weekend,
from September 21 to 23.
Savour Stratford has grown from a
hastily organized local food event that
brought 5,000 visitors out over two days in
2008, to a three-day culinary extravaganza
for 30,000 foodies and over 200 farmers,
celebrity chefs, food and drink consultants,
restaurateurs, artisans, musicians and
street performers, backed by a battalion of
more than 500 local volunteers helping to
make it happen.
This gourmandathon, envisioned and
spearheaded by Danielle Brodhagen,
Culinary Programme Development
Coordinator at the Stratford Tourism
Alliance, has tipped from a local
happening with some pleasantly surprised
theatregoers, to being dubbed “Best
Culinary Experience in Ontario” by the
Ontario Tourism Culinary Alliance.
“People now travel here specifically for
this weekend,” says Brodhagen. “We’re
now hearing attendees recall, ‘Oh yeah… I
Over 30,000 are expected at this year’s Savour Stratford
Perth County Culinary Festival
remember coming here to see Shakespeare
when I was in school.’”
SSF Double Down
Savour Stratford will fill Veterans’ Drive, the
riverside walkway behind the band shell,
boutique-lined York Street, a couple blocks of
Downie Street, and Market Square, behind
the city’s Victorian redbrick City Hall.
Last year’s Savour event was an ambitious
doubling down of the festival’s footprint
when they expanded into the downtown
core. “That was a stretch,” admits Brodhagen.
“And this year we’re putting more focus
on creating a festive atmosphere with
decorations and banners, and transitioning
between areas with a series of twelve 4-by-8foot raised garden beds of heritage vegetables
researched from 19th century documents.”
FoodTV’s David Rocco is one of the celebrity chefs
demonstrating this year
24
www.eatdrink.ca
Back again are Savour’s signature events:
Saturday night’s Southern BBQ, Blues &
Brews, the party of the weekend, this year
featuring smoked fare; and Sunday’s grand
Stratford Tasting, which pairs local terroir
producers with chefs, craft brewers and
VQA wineries. “The thing about Savour
is that it morphs over the course of the
weekend, with lots of unique opportunities,”
says Brodhagen. “For example, the wine
companies often bring wines you can’t buy
at the LCBO or even at their wineries. Coffin
Local produce in the farmers market area is a core value
at Savour Stratford
Local producers, such as Monforte Dairy (above) and
Lindsay’s Bakery (below), will be out in force.
Ridge Boutique Winery in Meaford has
set aside a couple of cases of their sold-out
L’Acadie Blanc, which just won two golds at
the All-Canadian Wine Championships.”
Education and awareness are central
to the festival, with Culinary Stage chef
demonstrations by TV chef David Rocco of
David Rocco’s Dolce Vita, Carol Heinrich of
Top Chef Canada, and other chef/authors,
Tutored Tastings and pairings (the whisky
seminar will feature bourbons), Bradshaw’s
Kitchen Pavilion, the Craft Beer and Wine
Pavilion, Food Learning Centre, Kids’ Tent,
street food galore, and a full-on roster of
musicians and street performers.
Of course, local and regional farmers
and artisans will be selling fresh produce,
specialized food products, and objets.
“Having local producers on site selling
their produce is a core value for the
festival,” Danielle explains. To that end,
Savour offers a place to check your grocery
bags, so you can continue to enjoy the
festival unencumbered.
A Trip from Abergavenny
The inspiration for Savour Stratford
came when Brodhagen visited Wales and
happened upon the Abergavenny Food
Festival — population 14,000, attendance
35,000. “The parallels were so obvious that
I met with Eugene [Zakreski, Executive
Director of Stratford Tourism Alliance]
to float the idea. He asked for a one-page
pitch, and then said, ‘You’ve got the job.’
That was in March 2008, and we kicked off
that September.”
Since then, through collaborations and
sponsorships with GE Café Appliances,
Chateau de
Charmes, Mill
Street Brewery,
The Local Community Food
Centre, Fanshawe
College, Stratford
Chefs School,
and Bradshaw’s Kitchen Detail, the Savour
Stratford brand has expanded into yearround community education, B2B services,
events like beer & cheese and tea & chocolate tastings, and self-guided tours like
the Stratford Chocolate Trail and Porktails
(cocktails incorporating bacon.)
Savour Stratford Tips
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Plan Ahead — some ticketed events sell out in
advance
Stay Over — the program is loaded with oneoff events
Book Ahead — rooms get scarce as the city
doubles
Prepare to Park — outlying parking areas and
shuttles provided
Come to Learn — demos abound, from
caffeinating to pressure cooking
Pace Yourself — there’s lots of free music and
buskers
Plan to Shop — groceries, books, hard-to-find
stuff
Bring the Family — the Kids’ Tent is well
organized
Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary
Festival
Friday to Sunday, September 21–23
Market Square (City Hall), York Street,
Veterans’ Drive, Stratford
519-271-5140
www.savourstratford.com
DAVID HICKS is a Stratford writer, marketing consultant,
and wingman for the city’s Intelligent Community Forum awards.
Contact him at [email protected].
Stratford is
more than
great theatre.
26
www.eatdrink.ca
www.eatdrink
eat
eatdrink
.ca
STRATFORD SLOW FOOD MARKET
LONDON WESTERN FAIR MARKET
WATERLOO UPTOWN MARKET
facebook.com/downiestreetbakehouse
Stratford is
more than
great theatre.
“I made a delicious
discovery: Stratford has
a culinary obsession.
And, for me, finding
what I call a ‘food
town’ is a rare and
magnificent thing ...
You’ve got a place that
feeds all the senses.”
— Marion Kane, Food Writer
www.marionkane.com
www.eatdrink.ca
Bean to Barr Chocolate
Fair Trade, Organic, and Vegan.
Made from scratch, right here.
Mexico 80% • Peru 70% • Madagascar 62%
6
8
9
Eat. Drink.
Helping you entertain in
style for over 115 years.
27
28
www.eatdrink.ca
culinary retail
Twisted But Not Broken
Goderich Rebuilds After the Tornado of August 2011
By JANE ANTONIAK
Photography by BRUCE FYFE
S
et the table and people will return
to the square. That’s the approach
Goderich planners and business
owners are taking
as they rebuild the
“prettiest town in Canada”
following the devastating
tornado with its $150-million
repair bill.
From a vibrant downtown Farmer’s
Market held in the square on Saturdays, to
the development of new restaurants and
culinary shops, Goderich is set to become a
foodie destination as it creates a new path.
The donuts are back! Legions of Culbert’s
Bakery fans across the country, sentimental
and hungry for the famous crème-filled and
jam-stuffed fritters, are giving a collective
sigh of relief that the historic bakery has
managed to rebuild and reopen after
taking a direct hit during the F3 tornado
last August. In a few seconds, the tornado
It’s good to see a lineup at Culbert’s again
blasted up from Lake Huron and ripped
straight up West Street onto the picturesque
square, destroying or seriously damaging
numerous buildings and
businesses. But the thirdgeneration owner of the
bakery, Darin Culbert,
dug deep and made the tough
decision to repair and reopen. It was a long,
and sometimes discouraging, period of
recovery as he faced new inspections of his
1800s oven, but his fans rallied, setting up a
Facebook campaign pushing for the return
of the donuts.
When the doors finally opened again in
May, it was no surprise that people lined
the block to support him and take home
some treats. In fact, the lineups haven’t
eased, and it’s the kind of sign that has
encouraged Culbert’s business neighbours
to continue with their own rebuilding.
Deb Shewfelt has been mayor of
Goderich for 17 years. He beams with pride
as he surveys the crowds at a Saturday
Farmer’s Market. Even with a backdrop of
torn-out buildings,
he sees opportunity.
“I say fill the
square with
restaurants. Create
something unique,
like Frankenmuth,
Michigan, and
people will drive to come here. You’re not
going to go neck and neck with big-box
stores. If you build it to where it was, then
you’ve lost. So we’re trying to create now
the history that 50 years from now they’ll
look back and say, ‘Hey, they got it right!’”
Getting it right is being laid out in a new
master plan that sees a focus on culinary
development. New businesses, including a
smoked-meat deli shop, an ice cream shop,
and a new grill restaurant, are opening,
God
Goderich
Celtic
tiic
Roots
Ro
FESTIVAL
A
AL
August 10 – 12, 2012
Lions Harbour Park, Goderich
Over 60 hours of music
5 stages (4 covered)
Fresh local food
Children’s Area
Craft Artisan Village
Rain or shine!
Mayor Deb Shewfelt at
Burdan’s bread truck
and damaged shops have reopened. There’s
even talk of a microbrewery. And some
restaurants have reopened or survived the
tornado untouched, such as the delightful
Thyme on 21, just off the square.
Bob Marshall, Tourism Manager and
longtime Goderich resident, says the key
now is to deliver the “open for business”
message to visitors. “We did have a
tornado, but look at us,” says Marshall.
He says he still gets calls from outsiders
asking if the town is “open.” And there
are the “morbid curiosity seekers” who
want to tour tornado damage. His message
is, “Don’t wait until we’re perfect. Come
and see how we’re rebuilding.” The
Celtic Festival is back this summer, and
Marshall is thrilled that nine Great Lakes
cruise ships are making Goderich a port
stop. The beautiful Goderich beach and
boardwalk are fully functional, and no
tornado can take away the romanticism of
watching the sunset from the patio at the
Park House restaurant.
Visitors to the square, like Karen Melady,
are excited about the town’s future growth.
“I think the rebirth of the farmers’ market
to this new location along the square is an
exciting situation that points toward other
possibilities in the master plan.”
Market vendor Sophie Burdan of Red
Cat Farms says business is brisker than
she expected. She sells artisan breads
made at her bakery five kilometres north of
Goderich, which just missed being hit by
And don’t forget …
Celtic college & Celtic Kids Camp
August 6 – 10, 2012
(519) 524 8221
www.celticfestival.ca
Burdan’s
Red Cat Farm
Fresh Bread,
from Our Oven
to Your Table
•
•
•
•
Best Cinnamon Rolls
Healthy Sourdough Bread
Yummy Pretzels
Bacon Buns ...
and MUCH MORE!
Visit Us at Your LO
Farmer ’s MarketCAL
!
Exeter 2-6pm Thu
rsday
Masonville, Lond
8am-2pm Fridayon
Goderich 8am-1p
m Saturday
OPEN AT THE FARM Every Friday 9am to 6pm
82560 Bluewater Hwy, Goderich
(Across from Point Farms Park)
519-524-1283
[email protected]
30
www.eatdrink.ca
the tornado. “I don’t remember seeing so
many people before! I’m really happy to be
here on the main street of Goderich and to
be part of the rebuilding. It’s exciting to see
how everything will work out.”
She is one of 36 regular vendors at the
Saturday market, which now sees the
booths facing towards the square shops
from a section of parking spots adjacent to
the sidewalk. “There was an overwhelming
cry from people during our planning
sessions that they wanted their market
downtown on the square,” says Michael
Strickland, Chair of the Farmers’ Market,
which is run by the Goderich Business
Improvement Association (BIA). And the
town is keen to listen to suggestions.
It’s all good news for butcher Chad
Shannahan, who owns a meat and culinary
goods shop on the square. He was forced to
close after the tornado when power outages
wiped out his refrigeration system. Now
reopened, Shannahan says he’d like to see
a mix of culinary and retail shops to draw
visitors. “I think things are coming along
really well,” he says with a smile.
Chad Shannahan with Health
Minister Deb Matthews
Phillips Studio Series proudly presents...
Trudeau Stories by Brooke Johnson
August 2-5, 2012
www.eatdrink.ca
Back at Culbert’s Bakery, the lineup
still remains as the afternoon begins. But
those in line, from all over the region,
don’t mind a bit. And besides, just down
the street awaits lunch at the Park House,
where a cold drink paired with fresh fish
and chips, enjoyed while looking out at the
lake makes summer in Goderich a special
experience. And if you’re staying the night,
there’s always dinner at Thyme on 21 or a
trip up the highway to The Benmiller Inn,
where more than 700 new trees have been
31
planted as they rebuild their gorgeous
retreat. Really, why not make it a weekend?
Oh, yes. Just come hungry!
JANE ANTONIAK regularly covers the Lake Huron shoreline
for eatdrink magazine. She has a particular fondness for Goderich,
as it reminds her of her hometown, Port Arthur, Ontario.
BRUCE FYFE is a contributing photographer to eatdrink. He
likes to take his camera on the road, as he discovers new culinary
adventures.
ON THE SQUARE
Tranquility is closer
than you think.
Just minutes from Goderich, nestled
on the tranquil banks of Sharpe’s Creek
and the Maitland River, lies a haven
of historic charm. Discover the magic
of Benmiller Inn & Spa for a day or
a weekend. Featuring 57 unique guest
rooms, conference space, fireplaces,
indoor pool, elegant spa, fine dining
& exquisite natural surroundings.
It’s where hospitality comes naturally!
519-524-2192 • 800-265-1711
[email protected]
benmillerinnandspa.com
32
www.eatdrink.ca
• Shop • Stay • Play
e
n
i
D
Enjoy Ontario’s
West Coast
A Fresh Take on Tradition
Come for dinner or
a romantic getaway
on the Huron Shore
Mongolian
Gri
Thur ll
sday N hts
All Summig
er
starts June
28
Stylish German Cuisine
Distinctive Accommodations
www.hessenland.com
RR #2 Zurich ON Hwy 21, north of Grand Bend, 1 hour from London
519-236-7707 or 1-866-543-7736
Red Pump
the
Bayfield, Ontario
Canada N0M 1G0
Most Romantic Guest
Suites & Gourmet Cuisine
suites@ theredpumpinn.com
www.eatdrink.ca
Serving Lunch
and Dinner
33
Using the Best of Huron County’s Bounty
Open 6 Days a Week
Always Closed Monday
“We are so blessed to be
living in such an
agriculturally rich area
of the world.”
Reservations
Recommended
— Owner James Eddington
519.238.6224
42 Ontario St. S.,
Grand Bend
PATIO
NOW
OPEN!
Eddington’s
occupies
the original
Carling
homestead, built in the 1870s.
HURON COUNTRY PLAYHOUSE • GRAND BEND
Alex Mustakas • Artistic Director
July 25 - Aug 11
The King is back for
one week only! This
thrilling concert tribute
stars award-winning
Elvis impersonator, Roy
LeBlanc as the legendary
Elvis Presley.
ROY LEBLANC
as Elvis
2012 SEASON
Created by Chris McHarge & Colin Stewart
Box Office: 519-238-6000
huroncountryplayhouse.com
34
www.eatdrink.ca
culinary retail
Taking it Low and Slow
Add a Smoker to Your Barbecue Repertoire
By JANE ANTONIAK
S
mokin’ hot. From the original Big
Green Egg to the knockoff kamadostyle cooker available at Costco,
personal home smokers are a
coveted backyard item for BBQ devotees
this summer. It’s all about low and slow
in your backyard or cottage oasis, chillin’
outdoors with the aroma of personally
selected flavoured smoke drifting up as
you savour thoughts of everything from
smoked salmon to full roasts of beef.
Eatdrink has prepared this little primer
on how to and where to get smokin’. You
can now get gas and even electric smokers,
but we’re going to focus on the classic
charcoal method, as it seems to be a
popular addition to the BBQ scene for the
countless gas grillers who want to add to
their repertoire:
The newest onto the smoker scene is
The Keg from Broil King. Billed as a way to
“enhance your grilling experience,” The
Keg is clearly aimed at the low-and-slow
enthusiast who wants convection-style
cooking using charcoal. Like other Broil
King products, The Keg boasts high-quality
materials such as a double-walled steel
body with highgrade insulation
to create a
thermal convection
current,
with
temperature control and
easy use. It also
has a heavy-duty
cast-iron cooking grid and a
cast-iron upper
damper. Displayed with a
The Keg from
glass of beer
Broil King
on the side shelf, the idea is clearly all
about a relaxing cooking experience. And it
does kind of look like a keg of beer!
Many gas grill lovers are being drawn to
smokers as a way to add charcoal grilling
to their repertoire. Where gas is fast and
efficient, charcoal is low, slow and aromatic.
Broil King endorses True ’Cue Hardwood
Lump Charcoal, which they say contains no
chemicals, additives or fillers. It
is also promoted as lighting
quicker, burning hotter,
and lasting longer than
briquettes.
The Keg also comes
with some fun accessories such as a pizza stone
kit, diffuser kit, vegetable
basket, rack kit and castiron griddle.
Another big name in
the BBQ world, Weber,
also has a smoker —
it’s a leaner, taller
machine called Smokey
Mountain Cooker. It
Weber Smokey
comes in two sizes: 18.5
Mountain Cooker
inches and 22.5 inches,
which basically means a
difference in cooking area. For instance,
you can stack and cook a ham and a
chicken at the same time or a full-size
turkey in this baby. The Smokey Mountain
Cooker has a porcelain-enameled bowl, lid
and waterpan constructed of steel, and a
built-in thermometer.
Jennifer Giesen of Porky’s in London says
they see a specific clientele come to the store
looking for a smoker. “People have invested
in their homes, outdoor rooms. This is
something that takes time, so it’s aimed at
people who are interested in food, cooking
styles and they want a total experience
outdoors. It’s an event to use your smoker.
HYDE PARK
Spice & Herb Co.
Big Green Egg
You have people over, you get the charcoal
going and people are relaxing and enjoying
the outdoor cooking experience.”
The granddaddy of smokers is Big Green
Egg. Designed more than 30 years ago by
a self-proclaimed EGGhead, Ed Fisher
of Atlanta, this was the first popularized
version of the ancient kamado-style cooker
to catch the eye of the marketplace. The
invention comes in a variety of sizes,
from mini for small spaces and balconies
to the XL for large parties. Endorsed
by Canadian BBQ phenom Ted Reader
and other celebrity chefs and southern
musicians in the US, the Egg has developed
its own culture with a magazine called
Big Green Egg Lifestyle, where EGGheads
get recipes, updates on accessories, and a
general love-in forum for outdoor cooking.
It promotes cooking of all kinds on the
Egg, from grilling and smoking to roasting
and even baking. Heck, you can even buy
Green Egg clothing for your baby. The
company claims to have EGGheads in over
25 countries now. This beauty also has an
impressive stand to make it the centrepiece
of your outdoor kitchen.
Big Green Eggs are made of ceramic,
which doesn’t get as hot as a metal grill. It
uses natural lump charcoal made in the
USA from carbonized oak and hickory, with
no additives.
The Primo is similar to the Big Green Egg
in that it is a grill and a smoker all in one unit.
The main difference is that the Primo comes
in an oval shape, which allows more cooking
area when you are looking for an extra-largesize experience. It boasts an even cooking
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36
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softer woods such as pine or cedar because of
temperature at high or low temps. It is also
their high levels of tar and resins, which can
made of ceramic and steel and can come
coat the food and leave a bitter flavour.
with a teak cooking station table.
If all of this sounds like a bit much,
No matter which smoker you
it’s interesting to note that new
choose, a big part of the fun is
seasoning products have been
playing with the mixology of
developed to instantly
wood chips and wood
add a smoky flavour
chunks. Fruit and
to your food without
hardwoods are
using a smoker.
used to add the
The Garlic Box out
all-important layer of flavour
of Hensall offers The Ultimate
and smoke. Chips are used for
Smoked Garlic Seasoning, which
short smokes or small amounts of
adds a nice flavour — simply shake
food. Chunks are used for longer
it on! It’s available in culinary
smoking sessions as they don’t
shops across our region.
flame out as quickly. Smoke
Other new smoking trends
is a great way to add flavour
The Primo
including cold-smoking cheese,
to food without adding fat or
which can be done with small
calories. Smoker fans like to play
smoker cans and no heat. And there are now
with the chips/chunks to develop their own
handheld smokers — called smoking guns
personal favourite combinations. Much like
— to add some instant smoky flavour.
pairing beverages with food, people enjoy
pairing wood chips/chunks with proteins
and vegetables to create the preferred match.
Popular choices are hickory, apple, pecan,
JANE ANTONIAK enjoys outdoor dining with groups of
cherry, mesquite, and even whisky-flavoured friends. She has her eye on a smoker for her Byron home.
chips/chunks. It is recommended to avoid
DO YOUR GRILL A FAVOUR!
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379 Southdale Road
Next to Loblaws
Phone: 519.686.6328
Mon - Sat: 10am - 7pm
Sunday: 11am - 6pm
ClancysMeatCo.com
www.eatdrink.ca
37
38
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farmers & artisans
The A, Bee, C’s of Honey
Clovermead Offers Sweet Adventures, in Aylmer
By DARIN COOK
W
hen it comes to
learning, there is
no better way to
make things stick
than to have fun while doing it.
Clovermead, an apiary just north
of Aylmer in Elgin County, has
taken its role as an educator about
bees and honey very seriously,
while having loads of fun doing it.
Chris Hiemstra, his wife Christy,
and their three children are the
third and fourth generations
running a family business with
a passion for beekeeping. Their
farm has become a destination for family
outings, with its fun and educational
attractions, including informative BeeLine Tours of the apiary, a zip line, a pedal
go-kart track, and friendly farm animals in
the Adventure Farm.
And then there are the delicious and
versatile products the Heimstras harvest
from their hives. The Honey Gift Shop,
located front and centre on their farmland,
Clovermead’s Honey Gift Shop
offers nonculinary merchandise like
beeswax candles and skin-care products.
The main draw, of course, is the floralsourced honey, which you can taste from
six different vats at their Honey Tasting
Bar, then take some home in your own
containers. Not all honey is created equal
and, by bellying up to the Honey Tasting
Bar, you get a sense of how much stronger
Buckwheat Honey is from Sweet Clover
Honey. The honey is also available for
tasting in twelve honey spreads, with
such creative flavours as root beer, citrus
amaretto, and ginger.
Part of the country charm comes from the antique
storefronts
Rush Creekrestored
Wines on the side of the Honey Gift Shop
Heritage Line Herbs
and the
Silver Birch Tearoom
The Honey Tasting Bar offers free
honey samples before you purchase
It is the story about how honey is created,
and the flavours that result from it, that the
Heimstras want to impress on their visitors.
To get one pound of honey, a bee visits two
million flowers; however, it only travels
two miles from its hive, so whatever crops
the hive is positioned near will determine
the aroma and flavour of each batch of
honey. Clovermead’s most local honey is
Summer Blossom — a sweet mixture of
native wildflowers and clover. To get other
types, such as the Wild Blueberry Honey,
hives are shipped to New Brunswick for
pollinating at East Coast blueberry farms.
Hives do a lot of cross-country travelling,
with a dual purpose: to pollinate crops in
other areas and to stock up on nectar for
honey production.
Tea Room Opens June 1, 2012
Full lunch menu, everything made with herbs
Reservations recommended
Full High Tea lunch, reservations required.
Heritage Store
53443 Heritage Line, Aylmer
519-866-5577
call or visit the website for hours of operation
Over 200 varieties of potted herbs
and heirloom vegetable plants
For a list of special events visit our website,
www.heritagelineherbs.com
growers & creators of fine lavender products
DISCOVER
Steed & Company Lavender, part of a
45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta
Choose from 6 varieties of pure honey
and 12 flavoured honey spreads
Clovermead honey is available in
London at Covent Garden Market and
other locations, but Christy has found
that customers love making the trip for
the authentic country farm experience
offered at Clovermead. The farm is quaint
and charming, and they keep adding more
fun-filled attractions — this June they
introduced a Giant Jumping Pillow. In fact,
INDULGE
in our unique handcrafted lavender products
ESCAPE
in the wonderful scent
and calming powers of lavender
Join u s
fo
ou r r
519-494-5525
FAIRY
47589 Sparta Line, Sparta
[email protected] FE ST IVA L
August
11
Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4
Mother’s Day through Christmas
www.steedandcompany.com
40
www.eatdrink.ca
expansion
seems to run
in the family.
Chris’s father,
Henry, started
the business in
1975 with 200
hives, selling
the honey
out of his
garage. With
an average of
40,000 bees
per hive,
Clovermead
now has 24
million of
A restored outhouse has honeythese tiny
bees on display behind glass
employees
generating honey in 25 bee yards across
Elgin County.
On the farm, the bees can be seen at
work in an outdoor Bee Observation House,
an Enchanted Bee Yard nature trail, and
even behind glass display cases in the
refurbished outhouse! Henry’s garage
eventually gave way to an old log cabin,
which was restored to become the first
store on the property. Chris and Christy
have expanded it even further into several
heritage buildings, giving the farm the look
of an old western town with a variety of
shop fronts.
Clovermead is a perfectly charming
setting for a day out with the family in the
peaceful countryside. And while you’re
there having fun, tidbits about beekeeping
stick to your brain, just like honey to toast,
as the Hiemstras offer an education about
these fascinating insects.
Clovermead
11302 Imperial Road North, Aylmer
519-773-5503
www.clovermead.com
The Adventure Farm is open for business from June to
October. The Honey Gift Shop is open year-round (with
restricted times in January and February).
DARIN COOK works and plays in the locality of ChathamKent and regularly contributes to eatdrink.
PortStanley
2
“Sexy Laundry”
FestivalTheatre
2012
By Michele Riml
July 4th to July 21st
SEASON
BOX OFFICE: 519.782.4353
www.portstanleytheatre.ca
“Having Hope At Home”
For Tickets Call 519.782.4353
www.portstanleytheatre.ca
By David S. Craig
July 25th to August 11th
“Storm Warning”
By Norm Foster
August 15th to September 8th
CORPORATE SPONSORS
SEASON SPONSORS
MITSUBISHI
MOTORS
BMW LONDON
LONDON MITSUBISHI
VOLVO LONDON
OF LONDON
MINI LONDON
OF LONDON
“Fresh & Locally Focused”
The Best Specialty Coffee & the only
Soft Serve Ice Cream in Port Stanley!
295 Bridge Street, Port Stanley
Across from the Port Stanley Festival Theatre
Open Daily 11am to 11pm starting May 7
519 782-3663
www.meandsuzies.com
Perfect for Dinner
or Lunch/Pub Fare
Featuring Local Cuisine
Stay a Night or Two
519.782.3388
www.kettlecreekinn.com
We’re right at the traffic lights
in PORT STANLEY
− Baked Goods Made Daily, On Site, from Scratch −
Steps from the Main Beach
145 William Street, Port Stanley
7am – 10pm, 7 Days a Week
226-658-1010
www.sweetbeach.ca
42
www.eatdrink.ca
restaurants
Taking a Pause in Port Stanley
at Killer Desserts & Café
By DEBRA BAGSHAW
K
iller Desserts & Café marks its
tenth anniversary this year.
Owner Donelda Pocock is
dedicated to continuing her
tradition of offering homemade “killer
desserts” and lunch favourites, as well
as a surprising selection of gourmet food
products. As if that weren’t enough, she’s
also been inspired to mark a decade of
success with a revamped menu and some
interesting new attractions.
Driving into Port Stanley on a sunny morning, one can sense anticipation in the air as
the village prepares for the arrival of summer
visitors to beaches, shops, inns and eateries.
Killer Desserts & Café, the senior amongst
Port’s cafés, offers classic lunches with a tasty
twist. This spring it also geared up to be the
place to come for Afternoon or High Tea, or
for a fine cup of French press coffee.
Donelda Pocock’s guiding principles
are quality ingredients, and food prepared
from scratch and made to order. She’s
Owner Donelda Pocock brought in new teas this spring
excited about continuing with these same
ideals, while expanding the Killer Desserts
repertoire to include 28 varieties of loose
teas from the Metropolitan Tea Company.
She brought in new table coverings with
a garden feel, and “proper” teacups and
teatime serveware, and launched her teas
on Mother’s Day weekend.
Specialty coffees, cappuccino and
espresso have always been available at
Killer Desserts & Cafe. Now those looking
for a fine cup of coffee will have the option
of having it made in a French press from
a flavourful, aromatic selection of fifteen
coffees from thirteen countries, roasted to
order by Gold Star Coffee. Topmost on the
list is 100% Jamaican Blue Mountain, which
the menu notes is “the coffee the Queen
drinks.” All of the specialty coffees are
available for purchase by the pound.
Donelda started Killer Desserts back in
2002 in a
small former bank
building.
The business outgrew the
location,
and she
sought a
spot with
a bigger
The bright and airy space is centrally
located in charming Port Stanley
storefront
Photo courtesy of Debra Bagshaw
Photography by PHILIP J. BELL, Shutter Studios, St. Thomas
www.eatdrink.ca
43
and space to expand, more
cooking began at a young age,
centrally located for the Port’s
when she and three sisters were
pedestrian traffic.
given the job of having dinner
The move to the present
on the table when their working
Bridge Street shop prompted
parents arrived home. She says,
the addition of the tagline
smiling, “I was the one who
“and much much more” to the
liked doing it most.” Though her
store’s name, in reference to
parents didn’t care for spices,
the newly offered homemade
she took to developing her
soups, salads, sandwiches,
own culinary personality and
specialty coffees, and stock of
continued to indulge her love
serving dishes and gourmet
of spices, herbs and interesting
products. These are predomiflavours when she moved away.
nately Ontario- or Canada-proSays Donelda, “At one time
duced and include one of the
my favourite way to spend an
largest selections of hot sauces
afternoon was preparing a
in southwestern Ontario.
gourmet meal for guests. That
Donelda enjoys dressing
doesn’t happen much now.” The
up menu standards with a
business reality of working seven
flavour punch or crunch. The
days a week and timing baking to
shelves of the café offer a great
coincide with off-peak electricity
selection of products to bring
rate hours doesn’t leave much
flavourful zing to home meals.
time for recreational cooking. But
She keeps an open sampling
Donelda is still happy to put her
jar of most, so customers
culinary energies into preparing
can taste before making a
food for her Killer Desserts &
purchase decision.
Café guests.
A selection of balsamic vinegars is
included in the specialty products. Says
Killer Desserts & Café
Donelda, “I thought about it for two years
291 Bridge Street, Port Stanley
before bringing in the 30-year-old oak-aged 519-782-9987
pure balsamic at $100 a bottle. You only
www.killerdesserts.com
need to use a little and it turned out that
open all year round.
I have more customers for that balsamic
summer hours (july 1 to labour day)
than for some of the less pricey ones. Once
monday to friday – 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
you taste it, you keep thinking about that
saturday – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
wonderful smooth flavour.”
sundays & holidays – noon to 5 p.m.
“The most popular menu items, by far, are
the specialty grilled cheese sandwiches,” says DEBRA BAGSHAW is a frequent contributor to eatdrink
Donelda. One of them is made with cheddar
and the editor of Relish Elgin (www.relishelgin.ca)
and pecan apple
harvest compote.
Recipe courtesy of Killer Desserts & Café in Port Stanley
“Its flavour is so
addictive that
several local
DRY INGREDIENTS
people come in
2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour
1 In a large bowl, mix together all
for a weekly ‘fix’.”
1⁄3 cup (75 mL) sugar
dry ingredients. In another bowl
Not far behind in
1 tablespoon (15 mL) baking powder
whisk together all wet ingredients.
popularity is the
½ teaspoon (2 mL) salt
2
Add dry to wet and mix by hand
½ cup (125 mL) shredded cheddar cheese
Ultimate Grilled
until just combined.
Cheese with ham, 1⁄3 cup (75 mL) grated Parmesan cheese
3
Scoop dough into 12 greased
provolone, Swiss
WET INGREDIENTS
muffin cups. Bake at 400°F for
and jalapeno
1 egg
13 minutes or until tester comes
cream cheese.
2⁄3 cup (150 mL) milk
out clean.
1⁄3 cup (75 mL) vegetable oil
Donelda’s
1
rounded
tablespoon
(15–20
mL)
interest in
Sun-Dried Tomato & Cheese Biscuits
Sundried Tomato Tapenade
44
www.eatdrink.ca
5 culinary themed dinners that that will help you think about your food
Sticking to true Taste of Huron fashion, Food for
Thought Dinners will be presented at various
restaurants throughout the county featuring
food-related discussions and themed menus. At
$40.00 per person (does not include beverages,
gratuity or service), these dinners are sure to
delight.
Dinners will kick-off on Tuesday, July
y
10 at The
.
The Little Inn will presentt
‘Turkey Tales’, that will discuss
uss
the history of the turkey, while
e
featuring local turkey products
s
from Hayter’s Fam. Call 1-800565-1832 to make reservations.
nmiller
On Tuesday, July 24, Benmiller
ild Side’, a
Inn presents ‘Eatin’ on the Wild
discussion about foraging for food by Marg
Beard of the Maitland Valley Conservation
Authority (MVCA). Call 1-800-265-1711 to
make reservations.
On Tuesday, August 14, Hessenland Country
Inn in St. Joseph presents ‘It’s the Schnitz’,
where guests will enjoy schnitzel varies from
food stations set-up throughout beautiful
gardens. Call 1-866-543-7736 to make
reservations.
Food for Thought Dinners will continue at
Eddington’s of Exeter on Tuesday, September
11 with “F
“Find Your Fit – Learn to Live a
Balanced Lifestyle”. Call 519-235B
3030 to to make reservations.
Celebra
Celebrate local food turned
It
Italian during the “Little Italy
Black Dog Village Pub and
Bl
Bistro
Bi
Bistr
October 9. Call 519-565-2326 to
Octob
O
make reservations.
reserva
Watch for more Food for Thought Dinners to be
announced throughout the summer. All Food
for Thought Dinners are booked by calling
the restaurants directly. Special menus that
compliment the topics can be found online at
www.tasteofhuron.ca.
Labour Day Weekend in
downtown Goderich!
SATURDAYSept. 1
Village Marketplace
10:00 AM to 1:00 PM in downtown
Goderich
• Chef Challenge - local chefs will
prepare dishes using food from
the Farmers’ Market, only one
will be named Taste of Huron’s
Top Chef 2012.
• Tasting - try bit-sized samples
prepared by local chefs.
• “Touch the Tractor” - kids &
adults get the opportunity to
touch farm machinery.
SUNDAYSept. 2
Locavore Brunch
Brunch served 11:00 AM to 1:00 PM
Cost: $20 adult, $5.00 under 10
Traditional Sunday brunch with a
twist prepared by Chef Devin Tabor
of Bon Vivant Catering featuring
Huron County produced eggs &
other local ingredients. The brunch
will feature a special guest - stay
tuned! We have sold out in the past,
so, book your brunch tickets NOW
on www.ticketscene.ca.
www.tasteofhuron.ca
These events are coordinated and sponsored by the Huron Tourism
Association along with the support of the County of Huron Tourism
Burger
www.eatdrink.ca
45
TrailTrail
Trail
The Huron County BURGER TRAIL lists
8 great beef burgers. The burger options
are endless!
THE ULTIMATE ALBION BURGER - 6oz. of
mouthwatering ground beef, topped with 3oz. of
Montreal smoked meat with Swiss cheese on
fresh baked toasted bun.
The Albion Hotel
BACON
CHEESEBURGER
MEATLOAF
SANDWICH - Metzger’s 100% ground beef,
bourbon bacon & onion marmalade, chipotle aioli,
applewood smoked cheddar, lettuce, tomato on a
toasted inn made sesame seed bun.
Benmiller Inn - 81175 Benmiller Line, Goderich
THE SCOTTISH BURGER - 8oz. of Black Angus
beef, topped with whisky cheddar, deep-fried
onion rings & house-made spicy tomato chutney.
The Black Dog Pub
BP’S PRIME RIB BURGER - It’s a 100%
Canadian ½ lb prime rib beef burger with fresh
lettuce, tomato, red onion & pickles, plus a secret
Boston Pizza - 490 Huron Rd., Goderich
EDDINGTON’S BURGER - Fire grilled house
made burger with lettuce, onion, tomato, aged
cheddar & double smoked bacon on a fresh bun.
Eddington’s of Exeter - 527 Main St.S, Exeter
BLACK LABEL DRY AGED BLEND PRIME
RIB BURGER - The simple burger as a “steak
in burger form” with rosemary pomme allumette,
double smoked cheddar, air dried bacon &
caramelized shallots.
The Little Inn
THE WORKS BURGER - ½ lb sirloin burger,
charbroiled to perfection in a Kansas sauce with
mushrooms, onions, green peppers, double
bacon & topped with swiss & cheddar cheese.
Paddy O’Neil’s - 92 CourtHouse Square, Goderich
PARK HOUSE BURGER - 6oz. of ground sirloin,
grilled to perfection & served with your choice of
lettuce, tomato, mayo, relish, mustard, red onion
& dill pickle.
Park House - 168 West St., Goderich
burgers! Collect
Burger amazing
stamps at participating
Huron County - home to
Trail
restaurants - get your
8th burger FREE!
EE
FR
PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS:
The Albion Hotel Benmiller Inn - 81175 Benmiller Line, Goderich
The Black Dog Pub Boston Pizza - 490 Huron Road, Goderich
Eddington’s of Exeter - 527 Main Street S, Exeter
The Little Inn Paddy O’Neil’s - 92 Court House Square, Goderich
Park House - 168 West Street, Goderich
Try a new burger each time or go back to your
favourite restaurant time & time again!
www.tasteofhuron.ca
46
www.eatdrink.ca
travel
King of Chefs, Chef of Kings
Discovering Escoffier, in His Hometown
By ANN MCCOLL LINDSAY
Photography by DAVID LINDSAY
L
ocal bus and train services connect
the cities along the Mediterranean
coast, making stops at Monaco,
Nice, Cap d’Antibes, and Cannes,
for just a few euros. At the Baie des Anges,
we glimpsed a series of pyramid-shaped,
futuristic, winged apartment buildings on
the bay, which offered no reason to get off
the train. But a passage in our insightful
guide book suggested we take a short bus
trip inland, to the historic VilleneuveLoubet Village. This was the birthplace
of Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935), father of
modern French cuisine. His solid threestorey maison natale has been transformed
into a Musée de l’Art Culinaire.
Auguste Escoffier’s accomplishments
make current TV super chefs look like
cream puffs. The path of his career unfolds
A street view of the Musée de l’Art Culinaire
Ann takes a close look at the Escoffier’s cooking hearth
for the visitor as they enter this gem of
a museum, hidden on the cobblestoned
byway of a quaintly charming Provençal village, whose small auberge and
shops drip with ivy. The entry room of
the 18th-century village house has been
transformed into a completely equipped
early kitchen. A walk-in stone fireplace
is hung with copper pots, moulds, iron
grids, chains and rotisseries. Piles of wood,
rustic casseroles, basic utensils and grinders indicate the style of cooking practised
by the young Auguste under the tutelage
of his mother and father, a country blacksmith. When he was thirteen, he went to
apprentice at his uncle’s restaurant in Nice.
Escoffier’s career took off like a rocket. By
examining the displays on four levels of his
birthplace, I gradually formed an overview
of his meteoric rise to culinary supremacy.
From the ages of 18 to 24, he worked
his way up through the ranks in the
kitchen of Le Petit Moulin Rouge in Paris,
making his mark with a preference for
the simple rather than the elaborate,
ostentatious displays used in traditional
French cooking. And, in what was perhaps
his most significant contribution to the
culinary arts, he began to reorganize the
Cruising to a New Location!
www.eatdrink.ca
47
Cruise Holidays announces their NEW location
– Effective August 1st
1422 Fanshawe Park Road West
Unit 9A (corner of Hyde Park & Fanshawe Park)
London ON N6G 0A4
Experts at Land and Sea
Nancy Hansen Giannina Holloway
Rita Matton
Faye Murphy
Bonnie Thomas
Call our Cruise Holidays Consultants at 519-474-1111 or Toll Free at 1-855-474-0111
Your World.Your Way.®
Join us for an exciting Oceania Cruise Presentation
with Jill Wilcox from Jill’s Table
Featuring “Jill’s Culinary Cruise” on June 6, 2013
onboard the beautiful Riviera
Thursday, July 12 at 7pm
Jill’s Table, 115 King Street, London
Please RSVP to 519-474-1111 as space is limited
Aloha Hawaii!
January 5 -12, 2013 Hawaii Cruise
Honolulu – Honolulu
Norwegian Cruise line – Pride of America
Balcony cabins
Outside cabins
Inside cabins
$1859 CDN per person (category BB)
$1882 CDN per person (category B6 – larger balcony)
$1539 CDN per person (category OA)
$1218 CDN per person (category IC)
All fares in Canadian dollars and are per person based on 2 people sharing one cabin.
Fare includes taxes plus a $75 shipboard credit per stateroom.
Not included – airfare or airfare taxes. Deposit required - $275 cdn per person.
TICO # 50019979
48
www.eatdrink.ca
structure of the professional kitchen by
the hungry. He
introducing the brigade de cuisine system. also formed a
After a stint in the military, he became
committee to
Head Chef of General MacMahon’s
help the families
headquarters. During his time in the army, of chefs who had
he realized the need to preserve meats
been drafted for
and vegetables and began to experiment
war duty.
with canning procedures. He developed
The top floor
the compressed bouillon cube, attracting
of the museum
the attention of the food industry. Maggi
is devoted to a
company worked with him to perfect their
fascinating collec- An Escoffier menu from 1899
still popular bouillon cube. On a shelf of
tion of over 1800
the kitchen in Villeneuve-Loubet sits a
menus, a colourful documentation from
large antique red-and-white KUB tin. (KUB 1820 on, representing a century of social
is the brand name under which the product history, economics and taste. He developed
is marketed in Europe).
the à la carte menu and the formula for a
By 1876, Escoffier was able to open his
fixed price meal, reducing the number of
own restaurant in Cannes, serving roydishes traditionally listed for French meals.
alty and other celebrities of the day. After
A few of my favourite menus are the ones
Escoffier founded the magazine, L’Art
for the Franco-Canadian Exhibition DinCulinaire, Cesar Ritz,
ner, held in Toronto in
manager of the Grand
1899, and the 1914 dinHotel in Monte Carlo,
ner in Paris for King
invited him to become
George V and Queen
his Chef de Cuisine.
Mary, celebrating the
This mutually fruitful
10th Anniversary of
collaboration eventuthe Entente Cordiale.
ally extended to the
Menus from historic
operation of the Savoy
crossings of transatand the Carlton Hotel in
lantic liners record his
London, the Ritz in Place
transformation of these
Vendome, and the Ritzgreat ships’ kitchens.
Carlton in New York. For The entry hall, converted into an early kitchen
His promotion of seafurther hotels in Switsonal fresh produce and
zerland, Italy, Budapest, Madrid, Montreal
lighter sauces heralded today’s food moveand Philadelphia, Escoffier organized the
ments. The lowest floor of the museum
hiring of the kitchen brigade, choosing the
contains a library of over 3000 books on
chefs and kitchen staff. This 19th-century
food and drink from the 17th century to the
jet-setter found time to publish the Guide
present. The kind guide asked me if I had
Culinaire, still used by today’s chefs, and to
written one I’d like to send. Imagine your
establish the Culinary Mutual Fund Associ- opus resting in the same room as Escoffier’s
ation in London. Although Escoffier’s name Ma Cuisine. At last count, he had developed
is synonymous with high-class, sumptuous over 10,000 recipes at the personal desk in
meals, he was a concerned philanthropist
his office, the walls of which are covered
who donated gifts collected in his honour
with awards and memorabilia.
to a home
In the well-stocked gift store, Chef’s
for retired toques and aprons are available, as well
chefs. In
as books and copies of some of the menus.
his pubThe museum hosts exhibitions and
lished
demonstrations. An entire room is devoted
essays
to an art at which Escoffier excelled.
on povThe fragrance that hits you upon entry
erty, he
should be bottled. Confections in almond
outlined
paste, sugar, vanilla, and chocolate are
programs transformed into sculptures of Snow White
to feed
and other fantasies.
The fireplace
The street fame of this French culinary
master rests on his creations for the
glitterati. In 1894, to commemorate
soprano Nellie Melba’s performance in
the opera Lohengrin at Covent Garden,
he created the dessert, Pêche au Cygne,
now known as Peach Melba. A special
strawberry confection honours the divine
Sarah Bernhardt.
Auguste Escoffier was the first chef
ever to receive France’s highest honour,
Officier de la Légion d’honneur. The
August Escoffier Foundation, established
after his death, created this Museum
of Culinary Art to inform visitors of his
influences on contemporary cuisine.
They also encourage novice chefs and
organize highly respected chefs to host an
annual Diners d’Epicure, a custom started
by Escoffier in London in 1912. The 2012
dinner was to take place at the Hotel du
Cap Eden Roc, the week after we left.
ALWAYS a
3-course
prix fixe
menu
option
432 Richmond St.
at Carling • London
FREE PARKING
After 6 pm off Queens Ave
ANN MCCOLL LINDSAY is a London-based writer and
an inveterate world traveler, with her painter/photographer
husband DAVID LINDSAY.
www.davidsbistro.ca
“Reasonably priced,
fresh, well-executed
Ethiopian cuisine ...”
— Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine
Vegetarian Options • Takeout • Catering
50
www.eatdrink.ca
restaurants
Eating On the Dock of the Bay
Enjoy Bistro-style Fare at Alternate Grounds Dockside, in Sarnia
By JANE ANTONIAK
A
re you looking for a bit of dockside dining
this summer but don’t own a boat? Just take
a drive to Sarnia, where you can hang out at
the Alternate Grounds Dockside restaurant,
which literally hangs out over the water at the Sarnia
Bay Marina.
You can look out at the boats in the 350 slips
and pretend you’re wasting away in Margaritaville
while enjoying breakfast, lunch or dinner at this
licensed bistro diner. It has the feel of a diner with
its white walls and metal-backed chairs, but the
food, prepared by chef/owner Brian Vickery and his
sous-chef Andrew McNaughton, brings the culinary
aspect of the experience up to casual bistro. Vickery
is a graduate of Fanshawe College cook’s apprentice
and has worked in a number of London hotels and
locations, including the London Convention Centre
and Blue Ginger. McNaughton graduated from the
Stratford Chef School in 2010 and apprenticed at
Downie Street Bakery, so he brings a love of dessertmaking to the kitchen. They have a total team of ten
working in the small galley kitchen that opens onto
the restaurant, including four culinary students from
Lambton College.
Vickery’s love of the water has taken him to Mexico
numerous times. While there, he perfected several
simple Mexican dishes and brought them back to his
own waterfront on the St. Clair River. You can find
Chef/Owner Brian Vickery and his wife
Terry, who custom blends the Sarnia
restaurant’s teas
Huevos Rancheros for breakfast,
as well as fish tacos, chicken
tinga tacos or tequila-limemarinated steak tacos for lunch
or dinner. Many of the dishes
feature his homemade pica de
gallo and creamy guacamole.
His food is not overly spicy, so if
you’re looking for extra punch,
you may want to add your own
heat.
Vickery has localized these
southern favourites by using
Southwestern Ontario-sourced
foods from such suppliers as
Bluewater Beef, The Whole Pig,
True to its name, the restaurant literally
hangs over the water at the picturesque
Sarnia Bay Marina
and Purdy’s Fish. Vickery is lucky to have
the Sunday Farmer’s Market adjacent to
his restaurant. It’s a great combination
for visitors to hit the
market and then
dine at Dockside. He
often offers samples
at the market, using
vendors’ produce.
Vickery also
draws on his love of
the American Deep
South (which he
visited numerous
Chorizo Queso Fundito
times during a stint
as a truck driver) and
he has added Shrimp Po-Boys and Lobster
Mac ‘n’ Cheese to the “alternate” menu.
Instead of typical dockside fast foods like
chicken wings, nachos and burgers, Vickery
offers Jerk Drumsticks, Mexican Flatbread,
Meatloaf Sandwiches, and buckets of Peel ‘n’
Eat Shrimp.
“We’ve had a great
response, especially
from our American
friends. They love the
variety, and it’s food
they recognize from
home. For locals, it’s
food they can’t get
anywhere else around
here,” says Vickery.
He tips his hat to
Chicken Tinga Tacos
local-boy-done-good
Mike Weir by serving
his wines exclusively.
Vickery also supports “local” breweries
by selling Railway City brews out of St.
Thomas and Mill Street beers out of Toronto.
And, yes, you can get a Jimmy Buffet-type
drink by sampling some of his specialty
cocktails, including the Mexi-Marg on the
rocks, which Vickery says he brought back
from Cozumel. The restaurant also has
“Skinny Cocktails,” made with mixes such
as Cucumber Soda, Vanilla Dry Soda and
Blood Orange Soda, all at 60 calories a bottle
(without the alcohol — shoot), for those
looking to keep their bikini figures.
Desserts by McNaughton also take on a
summer’s feel with his own take on S’Mores
with homemade marshmallows, Pecan
Brownies, Deep Fried Ice Cream, and more.
Desserts are offered as daily specials, so the
dessert menu is constantly changing. But the
www.eatdrink.ca
51
regular menu does feature Bananas Foster, if
you’re looking for a special sugar rush!
Alternate Grounds Dockside is the
sister restaurant to
Alternate Grounds
Café on Front Street,
Sarnia. Both choose
to offer alternative
choices to fast
food, pizza and
the like. Dockside
does fire up the
fryer though with
hand-cut shoestring
fries — crispy and
tasty, well worth the
calories. Both also offer Tammy’s Teas —
custom blends by Vickery’s wife.
Dockside has given Vickery the chance
to live out his own dream of one day having
a boat and spending more time near the
water, as he enjoys in Mexico.
“I love being on the water. I love the feel
of it. I just can’t wait
until I can have a
boat in the marina
here, too. Not to go
out boating but just
to sit on it during
breaks from the
restaurant!”
Alternate Grounds
Dockside is open
seven days a week,
closing around
10 nightly. It does
offer some evening
specials, and later this summer Vickery plans
to add live acoustic guitar entertainment, out
on his new patio over the water. Put on your
topsiders and slide on over this summer.
Alternate Grounds Dockside
97 Seaway Road, Sarnia
519-332-3081
www.alternategroundscafe.citymax.com
Alternate Grounds Cafe
410 Front Street North
519-344-2228
JANE ANTONIAK is a writer who enjoys being on the water.
Her favourite summer hangout is near Lake Superior, where she can
be found enjoying docks and rocks with family and friends.
52
www.eatdrink.ca
The BUZZ ... new and notable
W
hile we try to laud our writers appropriately,
with this being our 5th Anniversary issue,
it is a little more permissible to gush more
than usual about how wonderful they are.
Sue Sutherland Wood recently won the Barbara Novak/
PWAC Award for Excellence in Humour Writing for
“Cannery Row” that appeared in Issue 31 of eatdrink. While we
think that many of our submissions are award-worthy, that was
an especially perfect piece. You can read it online.
The Tipping News
Who among us wants to be labeled a cheapskate — or worse?
And for those of you who don’t follow the rules of polite society
— you can bet that servers have long memories. Tipping
remains a controversial and controversial issue of the hospitality
sector and other service-oriented businesses. When we hear
the “peanut gallery” arguing for a ban on tipping, we realize
they do not understand that the majority of servers in Ontario
earn an hourly rate below the standard minimum wage. Tipping
remains the accepted practice to subsidize incomes in the
labour-intensive hospitality industry. It is also an opportunity for
patrons to show their appreciation for good service.
Tip-sharing arrangements in the restaurant industry are
varied and complicated. It has now become a common practice
for servers to “tip out the house” at the end of each shift.
“The house” usually refers to sharing tips with the kitchen,
the bartender, busboy and the door. Sometimes it’s just the
owner. An employer taking most or all of the tips is unfair.
But in Ontario it is legal. That’s why many servers welcome
the initiative of NDP MPP Michael Prue, who has once again
introduced a private members’ bill to ban employers from
taking their employees’ gratuities. Do owners deserve a cut? It
really depends on the owner. Tip — sharing should be ways to
address inequity not bolster a restaurant’s profits.
Eatdrink’s Fifth Anniversary
Five years ago, when we first started writing The Buzz, the
big news was the opening of The Only On King and the
resurrection of the Auberge du Petit Prince in London.
Auberge is getting a different kind of resurrection under
the tutelage of Robbin Azzopardi, with a new cocktail
bar, a new menu, and a great patio. And The Only On
King may have lost Chef Jason Schubert, but none of its
attitude. The cuisine remains stellar.
In Stratford and area, we wrote about The Old Prune (now
The Prune), York Street Kitchen (recently relocated to Erie
Street), Bijou, Woolfy’s (recently renovated), The Church,
Rundles, and the Keystone Alley Café. This summer,
“Everyone deserves to have
their cupcake and eat it too!!”
NOW
OFFERING
LIGHT
LUNCHES!
• Party Packages for children’s birthday parties, bridal & baby showers and corporate meetings
• Home Party Packages for a fun, unique and stress-free Girls Night Out
• Ask how you can host a Lia Sophia Party at the Cafe for free!
1035 Gainsborough Road, London 519-681-0196 onedivaandacupcake.com
Mercer Hall is creating plenty of buzz in Stratford with
chef-inspired artisanal food and drink featuring local seasonal
cuisine, Ontario-focused wines and house-infused cocktails.
Your love of all things Italian begins
Farmers’ Markets
What does summer bring? So many local food choices! When
we see more farmers at our markets, it means things are
growing out there in our fields. It’s always exciting to watch
the local markets flourish as the season progresses.
Lindsay’s Bakery grew out of a natural entrepreneurial
enthusiasm and a desire to share really good baking with
his community. From Lindsay Todd Reid’s bake kitchen in
the cellar of his home, Lindsay handcrafts deliciousness, his
specialty now being croissants, which consume and obsess
him! Lindsay uses only pure, natural products – unbleached
organic flour, local eggs, honey, butter and other high-quality
ingredients. Every week, Lindsay’s Bakery sets up shop on
Saturdays at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market
and Sundays at the Slow Food Market in Stratford.
Horton Farmers’ Market
Since 1878, Horton Farmers’ Market has been St. Thomas’s
connection to community, the earth, and the very best in fresh
local produce. As a local producer-based market featuring
seasonal produce and local artisans, all of their farmers live
within 60 kms of the market site. The Horton Farmers’ Market
is located on Manitoba Street, ½ block north of Talbot Street
(at the Giant Tiger stop light), with plenty of free parking. • Sunday Brunch
• Family Dinners
• Fully Licensed by LLBO
• Banquet & Wedding Packages Available
• Take-Out & Delivery Available
(ask for details)
• Family Owned & Operated
New Location
28537 Centre Road, Strathroy
just off hwy 402 @ Hwy 81 and Second Street
519-245-5400
www.amys-restaurant.com
54
www.eatdrink.ca
Covent Garden Farmers’ Market
The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market is London’s only
100% producer-based market — every vendor at the market
sells what they grow, raise, bake, and preserve themselves. Each
Thursday and Saturday, market chef Paul Paschink cooks up
something with fresh local ingredients, samples it for a couple of
hours, and provides a recipe. Dan from Field Gate Organics and
Glenda from Smith Cheese are always out on the square on
Saturdays with samples from their stores inside the market. Watch
for their organic sliders as they are super popular. Hasbeans coffee
is outside on Saturdays as well, sampling their “coffee of the week.”
The Market welcomes Emerie Brine, executive chef at
Bernardin. He will come for a free canning presentation on
Saturday, August 11. Space is limited and you must register
by emailing [email protected].
The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market has a great variety
of vendors, from meat (bison, elk, lamb, beef, and pork) to
baking (bread, scones, muffins, gluten-free, and decadent
treats).Two years ago, Monforte Dairy joined the market
with their artisan cheeses. The Covent Garden Farmers’
Market has remained food- and farm-focused.
If you are looking for organic produce, they have two
certified organic vendors: Soiled Reputation and Dolway
Organic Garden. Applemeadow will be ‘transition’ organic
this year. Looking for organic tomatoes, corn, peppers or
cukes? You have a lot of choices: EcoLogic, Empire Valley,
Photos by Robert Miedema Photography, London
Quick Lunch
Dinner
Gift Cards
Take-Out
Joyce Farms, The Corn Crib, and Roma Produce.
Lynch Farms not only makes maple syrup, they also
make their own maple butter, maple candies, maple salad
dressing, and maple granola, plus some wonderful preserves.
Wildflower Honey has a range of different honeys throughout
the summer, from classic wildflower to blueberry and lavender.
Summer is barbecue season, so for the carnivores out there,
try some lamb sausage from Dave’s Beef & Lamb, or some
elk ‘hotdogs’ (the jalapeno cheese are a personal favourite)
from Renecker’s Hillside Palace, or maybe some bison
burgers from Blanbrook Bison. New to the market this year
is Happy Hogs Homestead, with heritage pork and turkeys.
There is also fresh local trout at Fair Haven Mission Farm.
If you want healthy, raw and vegan selections, then
Feed Your Body is the place to shop. New this year, they
have tasty and popular choices that include bean dips, nut
“cheeses,” grain-free crackers, power bars, and more.
The Market bakers are always wildly popular. The scones
at Tiramisu sell out every single week, so get there early. The
decadent baking at Made From Scratch is a market staple.
Berry farmers are well appreciated, as we all know how
short a fruit season can be. From strawberries from Howe
Farms or Joyce Farms, to Blueberry Hill blueberries, we
are fortunate to have such wonderful growers. This year has
been a tough one for local tree fruits such as peaches, pears,
nectarines, and even apples.
Corporate Meetings
Multimedia Projector
Private Events
25
Raja Licious!
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519-601-7252
428 Clarence Street, London
www.rajafinedining.ca
JOIN
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October 11-13, 2012
www.worldwinefoodexperience.com
LONDON CONVENTION CENTRE
Tickets available at
Centennial Hall Box Office
519.672.1967 or
www.centennialhall.london.ca
A portion of the proceeds to benefit the
patients and residents served by
St. Joseph's Health Care London
eatdrink
THE LOCAL FOOD & DRINK MAGAZINE
JEG
jonesentertainmentgroup
Bringing GREECE to London for over 38 years!
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MYKONOS
572 Adelaide Street, London
519-434-6736
www.mykonosrestaurant.ca
Mon−Sat
11am to 10pm
Sunday
11am to 9pm
For more info about The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market,
including recipes and special events, go to the new farmers’
market blog, at www.coventgardenfarmersmarket.com.
Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market
Earn the title of King or Queen of the Grill with any one
of Hyde Park Spice & Herb Co.’s new mouthwatering
Southern-inspired BBQ rubs or Signature grilling blends, such
as Hyde Park Signature Steak Spice, Rustic Beef & Rib Eye
Rub, Baharat, Moroccan Spice Rub, Grilled Chicken & Rib Rub,
Adobo Spice Rub, Piri-Piri, Louisiana in a Bottle, Mesquite Spice
Rub, Kentucky Spice Rub, Mediterranean Seasoning, Grilling
Spice, Jamaican Jerk Rub and Cajun Blackening Seasoning,
all made to take the heat! Use as a dry rub or mix with a little
olive oil to brush on your offering to the grilling gods. As with
all HPSH spices, all rubs are made with only certified organic,
natural & fair-trade ingredients — no preservatives, fillers,
or additives, simply pure flavour. You can find some of our
favourite grilling blends in the “Love BBQ” or deluxe “Ultimate
Grilling” Collections, or you can create your own, a unique
gift that keeps on giving for the year-round griller. www.
hydeparkspice.com. Long Live the Grill!
Martha and Gary McAlister, owners of Everything
Tea, have been in the tea business for over 18 years, first
as wholesalers, then as retailers in Wortley Village and
fondly remembered in downtown London. They have won
prestigious awards at the Canadian Fine Food Show, the Tea
and Coffee Expo, and Wine and Food Shows. Their customers
have included the Governor General’s residence, Indigo
Books cafés, private clubs, and high-end restaurants. Everything Tea is delighted to be upstairs at the Market
amongst the wonderful vendors on both floors and would
like to extend a warm welcome to customers old and new
and encourage you to enter the world of tea. They can also
be found at www.everythingtea.ca and can be reached at
519-433-9522. Call them for extensive tea selection, excellent
prices, unique items and knowledgeable advice. Chef Erin Harris of The Cheese Poet went to NYC in
May to participate in the Master Professionals course at
Artisanal Cheese Centre. This certificate course provided
an in-depth look at the world of artisanal cheese. In June,
Erin also went to the Great Canadian Cheese Festival in
Picton, where she selected several wonderful new cheeses
to sell at her shop in the Western Fair Farmers and Artisans
market. A new catering menu has just been launched, and
seasonal grilled-cheese sandwiches continue to be on the
menu every Saturday at the market.
Rick Peori of Jantzi’s Cheese has rebranded, and his
business is now called All Bout Cheese. Open Thursdays
and Saturdays, from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. at the Western Fair
Farmers and Artisans’ Market, and Fridays at the Masonville
Farmers' Market, Peori specializes in local and artisanal
cheeses, and a wide array of common imports at a fair price.
www.eatdrink.ca
participating restaurant. This promotion will run from August
9th — August 19th In addition to Summer & Winter Corelicious
London, they plan to collaborate with major events and
festivals happening in the downtown core, for example, The
Fringe Festival and the World Skating Championships.
Restaurants outside the core are welcome to join the festival.
Contact Eddy Phimphrachanh: [email protected].
Speaking of downtown restaurants, Eddy and Alex
Phimphrachanh’s restaurant Thaifoon is downtown
London’s upscale, casual Thai hot spot. This casually hip and
stylish take on the ancient Thai culture, with a décor and
Stratford and Area Farmers’ Markets
Stratford and Perth County are home to some of the best
farmers’ markets. The Stratford Farmers’ Market
runs year-round on Saturdays and is one of the oldest in
Ontario. Also on Saturdays is the St. Marys Market, where
everything is grown or produced locally by the vendors or
their neighbours. On Sundays, Stratford’s Market Square
comes alive from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. with the vendors and
patrons of the Slow Food Perth County Market. And new
this year is the Perth County Visitors Association’s Friday
afternoon market from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. in Shakespeare.
______________________
Corelicious London is a new local initiative showcasing
downtown London restaurants. Corelicious London is actively
promoting three-course prix fixe menus designed by each
57
Chef Erin Harris
Caterings • Private Tastings • [email protected] • 519.319.9795
www.thecheesepoet.ca • Western Fair Farmer’s Market • Thursdays & Saturdays
58
www.eatdrink.ca
cuisine that honours the past while embracing modernity,
has earned both raves and respect for their delicious food
and friendly service.
“Londonlicious,” this 3-course menu runs in conjunction
with Food Day Canada. For more information on Food Day
Canada please visit www.fooddaycanada.ca
Londonlicious has been a success over the past three years;
with participating restaurants completely booked with
reservations. Londonlicious returns this summer from July
13th — July 29th. Don’t miss this opportunity to experience an
array of three-course prix fix menus from diverse restaurants
for the amazing price of only $20, $25 and $30 per person.
One of our favourite local food bloggers, Dallas Rocheleau,
the Southwestern Ontario Foodie, has relocated to Nova
Scotia. Her new blog is titled Being Real in Nova Scotia.
The Only On King is offering a prix fixe menu for 3 weeks
starting July 24th and running to August 11th. Similar to
Billy’s
Deli Restaurant
Raspberry,Blueberry
& Peach Pies!
113 Dundas St @ Talbot
519-679-1970
Breakfast or Lunch
Hrs: T-S 7:30 to 3:00 Sun 9 to 2
Closed Mondays
www.billysdelirestaurant.ca
Speaking of relocating, Sonita Bird has left The Black
Shire Pub.
London’s “it” event of the year, The World Wine & Food
Experience, is not to be missed. For three exclusive
evenings in October, the London Convention Centre
will be transformed into a sensory playground designed to
tantalize the most discerning of palates. This awe-inspiring
affair will boast over 100 world-renowned vineyards,
gastronomical offerings from London’s top 20 chefs, and
a dusting of entertainment by world-class musicians and
Cirque performers. To complete your evening, they invite you
to visit their sculpted ice bar and sample offerings from firstrate Scotch and Tequila purveyors. The World Wine & Food
Experience has something for everyone. Limited-capacity
admission to this event is $39, which includes a Riedel wine
glass, a tasting guide, and a tasting-notes tablet.
A couple of issues back, we introduced you to the Onyx
Lounge, a sassy experiment by the owners to combine a
chi-chi dining room with a night club. Although a beautiful
event space, with a great chef serving some of the city’s best
food, the restaurant looks like it will close for the summer
and reopen in the fall with a new concept. The night club
will prevail. Chef Alicia Hartley and Manager Mathew
McKenzie are taking their talents across the street to
become part of the dynamic Blu Duby team.
Blu Duby is arguably the summer’s most highly anticipated
restaurant opening, which will be no mean feat for Joe and
Cheryl Duby. Joe of course is a seasoned professional with
many years of experience and a large following of admirers.
Cheryl is a talented and well-respected businessperson.
After refurbishment, Blu Duby is expected to open at the
end of July in the space previously occupied by Braise. The
restaurant’s tag line is “Remarkable Dining.”
www.eatdrink.ca
Speaking of Braise, former chef Kristian Crossen is reported
to be partnering in a new business in Wortley Village.
Greg Simpson is back behind the bar at Waldo’s on King
on Friday and Saturday nights.
Next door to Waldo’s, Josh and Jody Stall have opened
Upfront at the Market and are beginning to garner
attention after a soft opening. The Upfront's eclectic
menus reflect its owners’ passion for bold, exuberant and
diverse flavour combinations. Check out a rotating roster of
international-themed dinners.
When the Upfront opened in the premises formerly occupied
by Gambrinus, Milos Kral moved on to Gigs Grillhouse.
Kral kept Gigs’ staff and also brought many of his core
Gambrinus staff with him: Nick, Jessica, Adil, Aine and
Danielle. Matt Reijnen has taken over as a chef and is
working with On The Move Organics and other suppliers to
prepare a menu that will reflect their passion for everything
local. Kral has increased the number of draught lines and is
offering an ever-changing lineup Ontario craft beers, with a
few Quebec ones as well as some imports.
Speaking of On the Move Organics, Jeff, Jen, Joel, Aaron
and Ellie are excited to announce the opening of their latest
initiative: The Root Cellar Organic Juice Bar & Café on
Dundas Street in the Old East Village. The team will be serving
a simple and seasonal menu featuring the best of local organic
produce, breads and pastries. Whether you’re looking for a
filling breakfast, a simple and healthy lunch, or just proof
that organic muffins really are tastier than conventional, The
Root Cellar is sure to please. In addition to ethical coffee and
tea, the cafe will also feature a fresh juice and smoothie bar,
where customers can choose from a full menu of nutritious,
energizing, detoxifying, or just plain refreshing drinks.
Kantina owner Miljan Karac and Chef Danijel Markovic
reinterpret classic Eastern European cuisine with skill.
Kantina is closing for lunch during the summer months.
Danjjel is joining Dave Cook at Habitual Chocolate to
develop some new and exciting products at the Western
Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market.
59
Brian Govan of Restaurant Equipment and Supply tells
us he will be having a large “Renovation Sale.” They need to
make room and will be closing out some items and adjusting
inventory in many areas. They intend to price for quick sale
— regardless of cost. Renovations begin in August.
T.G.’s Addis Ababa Restaurant is a homey, inconspicuous
treasure on an unremarkable block of Dundas St. between
Burwell and Maitland. Inside, close your eyes and savour the
exquisite aromas emanating from the nearby tables and the
kitchen. The menu offers outstanding examples of Ethiopian
cuisine. Vegetarians flock here. T.G. is also well-known as a
local caterer.
swiss quality
cheese,
crafted right
here.
Visit our local cheese shop and sample our
delicious handcrafted cheeses, made using
fresh milk from our 3-generation family farm.
445172 Gunns Hill Road,
Woodstock ON N4S 7V8
GPS: N 43 03.849 W 80 69.132
Also Available in London:
Jantzi's Cheese
Western Fair Farmers’ Market
gunnshillcheese.ca
519-424-4024
Why Have Any Other,
When You Can Have Olive-Me!
Free Tastings
from the
Finest Artisan
Producers
Extra Virgin Olive Oil & Balsamic Vinegar
TASTING ROOM
1570 Hyde Park Road • Unit #7 • London
519-471-OLIV (6548) • [email protected] • www.olivemeco.com
W
NO
EN
OP
60
www.eatdrink.ca
The Raja exudes elegance and a level of luxury befitting
its name. Building on their excellent reputation made with
the thriving Raja in Stratford, proprietors Zafir Quazi and
Zahirul Chowdry are pleased to provide London with their
recipe for success: delicious Indian food and attentive service
in a friendly manner. The Raja is celebrating its third year in
business in London this summer.
7th Annual Corn Roast at Museum London on Sunday,
July 29. Join artist Ron Benner for a corn roast from 2 to 4
p.m. amidst his garden installation, As the Crow Flies. Part
sculpture, part installation and part performance, the event
will feature artist Ron Benner’s roving corn-roasting wagon,
Maiz Barbacoa. Musician Frank Ridsdale will entertain with
his resolute songs of political misdemeanours covering a wide
geographical range from the Port Stanley harbour to Latin
American revolutionary songs.
The WORKS, downtown London’s ultimate gourmet burger
bistro, just celebrated its first anniversary. There are over 60
inspired toppings on offer, on a number of different patties,
with various meat and vegetarian options. The Works is on King
Street, opposite the Covent Garden Market parking entrance.
In our last Buzz column, we told you that Downtown London
was looking at new ways to work with the City of London’s
established requirements and creatively fit patios into the
downtown landscape. Downtown’s first elevated patio built in
a parking space has opened, and leading the way on Dundas
Street is Kevin Greaves at Jambalaya. Justin and Gregg
Wolfe are putting the finishing touches on their patio at
their hot new retro diner, Nite Owl and the Early Bird,
downtown on Talbot Street. The pilot is aimed at restaurants
that are excluded from offering outdoor seating because it
takes up too much sidewalk space. Rules approved by city
council in May allow up to ten businesses to participate.
There’s a new food delivery company in London. EcoPlace
Organics, owned by Emily Peat, delivers fresh, local,
certified organic produce, baking and other treats to homes
and businesses in the city. The produce is in season and
locally available, from farms such as Dolway Organic
Garden. Baking is gluten-free, soy-free and vegan, from
London’s Organic Works bakery. Find out about upcoming
deliveries at www.ecoplaceorganicdelivery.com.
Brunch
•
Lunch
•
Dinner
481 Richmond St. London, ON N6A 3E4
P-519-432-4092
[email protected]
Olive oil tasting bars have opened in London! This emerging
culinary trend allows shoppers to sample, experience, learn,
and purchase more than 40 flavours of extra virgin olive oils
and balsamic vinegars from fusti tanks. Customers can then
fill bottles with their selection. The keys are freshness and
quality, according to the two owners of the tasting bars. The
oils and vinegars are infused with a wide range of flavours,
including fruit, spices, nuts and even chocolate.
Jamie Griffiths has opened The Pristine Olive
Tasting Bar in Old North at Cheapside and Maitland (the
London’s Celebration Destination
29
Lunch Weekdays
Dinner 7 Nights a Week
1 York Street
(just West of Ridout)
Continental cuisine – with a
contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking.
Cooking.
From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees,
Michael’s makes your celebration an event.
519-672-0111
BEST FINE DINING
AND MOST ROMANTIC
RESTAURANT
MICHAEL’S ON THE THAMES
Baby Grand Pianist 6 Nights a Week
Plenty of Free Parking
www.michaelsonthethames.com
former Sullivan’s Meat Market building), featuring only
Veronica brand oils from California — the oldest importer
of oils in North America. Griffiths is also selling salts, spices,
rubs and jams. www.thepristineolive.ca
Meanwhile, in Hyde Park, Missy Haggarty has opened
Olive-Me & Co. in a plaza at the corner of Hyde Park and
Gainsborough roads. She is sourcing her oils through private
connections, after spending much of her life travelling to
various parts of Europe. A salad lover, she is excited by the
wide array of flavours in the oils and vinegars designed to
splash up your cooking and baking. Haggarty is also selling a
line of olive oil soaps and body products. www.olivemeco.com
Brand new to Stratford! Olive Your Favourites is a
speciality shop offering unique and exceptional quality extra
virgin olive oils from around the world. Here you will also
find balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy. There’s even
mango, dark espresso and dark chocolate. Upon visiting
their store, an array awaits you. Sample and taste the many
varieties they offer, and make a note of your favourites, then
bottle and seal your choices on-site. 21 York Street, Stratford.
The Prune and Chef Bryan Steele are presenting a
Stratford Chefs School Honorary Dinner Series. Diners
will enjoy a three-course meal with wine sampling. A
portion of the sales will be donated to the Stratford Chefs
School. This series will be available all season starting after
7:45 p.m., $49.50/A. www.theprune.com
Nick & Nat’s Uptown 21 is hosting a variety of craft
dinners to showcase award-winning local wineries and
microbreweries, June through September. Evenings feature
a multicourse menu paired with beers and wines. For more
information and to reserve your seat, visit www.uptown21.ca.
At “Music at Rundles,” enjoy Songs of Travel by musician
George Meanwell, prior to enjoying Chef Neil Baxter’s
delightful dishes. Offered Saturday and Sunday, July 21 –
August 26. The cost is $55.95/per person and includes postperformance luncheon. www.rundlesrestaurant.com
Slow Food Perth County Pork Roast on Sunday, August 12.
A classic pig roast with all the fixin’s set in Stratford’s Market
Square! Watch for details: www.slowfoodperthcounty.ca.
Langdon Hall is once again hosting its popular Sizzling
Summer BBQ Series this summer. Each Friday, Chef
Jonathan Gushue is joined by co-hosts, including guest
chefs, winemakers, producers, food authors, foodies and
other culinarians. Langdon Hall, Cambridge, 6:30 p.m. to 9
p.m., $69/A, plus taxes and gratuities. Beverages not included.
Reservations required. 1-800-268-1898; www.langdonhall.ca.
Visit Birtch Farms and Estate Winery for fun experiences for
the whole family, such as pick your own apples and pumpkins,
a children’s playground, and a small corn maze. Their winery
features fruit wines and gift baskets made from locally grown
products, as well as tours, tastings and motorcoach programs.
Birtch Farms and Estate Winery, Woodstock, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.,
Mon.–Sat.; 1–4 p.m. on Sundays. www.birtchfarms.com.
NOW OPEN!
CAFÉ OPEN TUES TO FRI, 11-4
SUNDAY BRUNCH, 11-4
AVAILABLE EVENINGS FOR
PRIVATE DINING, WEDDINGS
CORPORATE EVENTS,
ANNIVERSARY DINNERS,
CHRISTMAS & BIRTHDAY PARTIES
theriverroom.ca | 519.850.2287
62
www.eatdrink.ca
Come backstage: walk Stratford’s sensational culinary
downtown and meet the passionate culinary artisans who
work wonders with the best of what grows here and around
the world, all on a delightful tour of the senses. Join your
Flavors of Stratford — Off the Beaten Path tour guide
for a delectable two-hour walking and tasting tour of our
epicurean gems. www.flavorsofstratford.com.
Every Sunday all summer long, join Ruth Klahsen’s son,
Christian, their “Little Prince,” for Artisan Tastings. Taste
some of their best cheese with wines from the Niagara
region and delicious accompaniments. What a great excuse
to visit Stratford! $15/per person. www.monfortedairy.com
This summer, Revel Caffe will be making a short relocation
from their spot on Wellington to 37 Market Place. Their new
place will be larger as well as have an amazing sun-lit patio.
www.revelcaffe.com
The new Savour Stratford Bacon and Ale Trail combines
two of our favourite things. From Beer BBQ Sauce, to pork terrine
wrapped in smoked bacon, to bacon-flavoured toothpaste,
you’ll gain a whole new appreciation of all things bacon on this
self-guided tour. Purchase a $25 (+ HST) trail pass of 5 tickets,
each of which entitle you to a “tasting” of a unique bacon-andale-inspired treat and the chance to speak with Stratford and
area’s culinary stars while visiting unique restaurants and shops.
Offered year-round, Bacon & Ale Trail gift certificates are a fun
gift idea. www.visitstratford.ca/bacontrail
Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival
presented by GE Café Appliances, September 21–23,
2012, is Ontario’s premier culinary event. Celebrating the
creative partnerships between producers and local chefs,
celebrity chefs and renowned cookbook authors will present
innovative and emerging culinary ideas at delicious tastings
and learning events. Free music concerts, artisanal markets
and street theatre all converge in Stratford’s heritage garden
district for a flavourful weekend of fun! Purdy’s Great Lakes Chowder Competition pits 10
Southern Ontario chefs in a challenge to create a chowder
concoction using Purdy’s fresh lake fish. This year’s celebrity
chef is Jonathon Gushue from Langdon Hall. The event is
held every year during Grand Bend Aquafest – an annual
celebration of water, raising awareness around the need to
protect this essential resource. The Chowder competition
celebrates fresh, sustainable, local food. August 12, 2012, 1pm
to 3pm – River Road, Grand Bend.
Pat Foster and Kevin Morrison are excited about contributing
to the rebuilding of Goderich with the June 30th opening of
their new restaurant Pat & Kevin’s on the Square. They
feature smoked meats, deli and even have the old Woolworth’s
diner counter. Located in the former Sweets & Memories
building (which was damaged by the tornado but has now been
repaired), Pat & Kevin’s will also serve Lynn Neitsch’s everpopular gelato, which will be made on the premises.
Taste of Huron is back in 2012 for an extended season
with events from July through October. Food for Thought
Dinners will be presented at various restaurants featuring
food-related discussions and themed menus. At $40.00 per
person (not including beverages, gratuity or service), these
dinners are sure to delight! Dinners will be held at The
Little Inn of Bayfield (July 10), Benmiller Inn (July 24),
Hessenland Country Inn (August 14), Eddington’s of
Exeter (September 11) and The Black Dog (October 9).
On Saturday, September 2, visit the Village Marketplace
(in conjunction with the Goderich Farmers’ Market) to see
a local Chef Challenge, cooking demos, tastings and bring
your kids to the “Touch the Tractor” event! On Sunday,
September 2, check out the Locavore Brunch, a traditional
brunch featuring local foods and a special guest for $20 for
adults and $5 for children under 10. www.tasteofhuron.ca.
To better spread “The Buzz,” eatdrink is now at facebook.
com/eatdrinkmag and twitter.com/eatdrinkmag. Let us
help you get the word out about your business too. We’ll be
retweeting, posting to our Facebook page, and printing all
the news we can fit in this space. Let’s get better connected!
facebook.com/eatdrinkmag
“Locally produced food just makes sense.”
to Lon
FREE DELIVEersRY
over $100, or
don
or Grand Bend for ord
Visit Us At:
Market
Stratford Farmers
t the year
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ou
thr
ay,
urd
Sat
7am to 12pm
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Grand Bend Farm
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twitter.com/eatdrinkmag
Our readers want to know, so send us info about
culinary events, fundraisers, and regional news. With
BUZZ in the Subject line, send to: [email protected].
DelMac Farm
— The Delves Family —
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or visit our website at
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63
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65
BEER MATTERS
beer
matters
Summer Patio Idyll
By THE MALT MONK
W
e are now in the middle of
“patio season,” that longawaited summer institution of
escaping the heat and urban
stresses on a shaded patio with a chilled craft
brew and some tasty summer tucker. Time
thus spent should not be wasted on ordinary
beer or dull food. This is your sacred downtime, so use it to explore the extraordinary
satisfactions of pairing seasonal artisanal
brews with complementary foods. So to help
you get the most out of your precious patio
time, I’ll offer a few appropriate seasonal
recommendations, make some pairing suggestions, and discuss the latest happenings in
the local craft beer community.
Many of us associate wheat beer with
summer. There are a few seasonal wheats
available on tap from our local crafters that
I encourage you to sample at your local pub,
and also a couple of imports that stand out as
unique and worth seeking out.
The first is Schneider-Weisse Mein
Nelson Sauvin (Tap X). Brewed to celebrate
the 25th anniversary of Holland’s pioneering
craft beer café alliance, Schneider Nelson
Sauvin is a unique creation of Germany’s
longest-operating wheat-beer brewery.
This is a bottle-conditioned (fermented)
Weizenbock or Wheat Bockbier (strong ale;
ABV: 6.9%). Its release represents the launch
of Schneider’s experimental Tap X series.
It’s brewed with a Belgian yeast strain,
which has defined a large part of its unique
character. Such innovative experimentation
is out of this brewery’s historically
conservative brewing tradition, but it shows
that Schneider’s brewmaster Hans-Peter
Drexler is pushing the perceived limits of
what traditional German beer can be. I can
attest to that, having sampled this great
wheat ale several times. I believe it to be the
rock star of the LCBO’s summer imports.
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As the name suggests, the unique Nelson
Sauvin hop from New Zealand is used in
this wheat ale to lend a vinous-fruity and
floral aroma to the beer, evoking aromatic
impressions of citrus, melon, gooseberry
and freshly mowed grass, and a delicate
flavour not unlike Sauvignon blanc grape
skins. A delicate malt sweetness balances
the flavour, while subtle tart fruity notes
Saisons
Among the beers that define
summer sipping, we can’t overlook
the wonderful quenching qualities
of summer Saisons. Saison, the
famous spiced pale ale and the pride
of Wallonian farmstead tables, is a
summer institution in the Frenchspeaking region of Belgium. The style’s
incredible spicy dryness, sparkling bottlefermented character, rounded drinkability,
and thirst-busting qualities have made
it a much-copied summer style for North
American craft brewers. Local crafters have
kegs and firkins of their own rendering
on tap in local cafés, but we are lucky this
year to have an award-winning world-class
artisan Saison available to us through the
LCBO’s seasonal import program.
Local Craft Beer News
Like the Terminator, rebounding from
the ashes of chaos, Milos Kral is back and
he has created another craft beer utopia
following the demise of Gambrinus bistro.
Milos has chosen Gigs Grillhouse (420
Talbot Street at Carling, London, 519-6014447, www.gigsgrillhouse.com) to build his
dream craft and artisanal beer emporium.
He tells me that it is “a work in progress,”
with the promise of expanding draft,
bottle and cask beer selection. I was fairly
impressed
with the
selection I
saw when I
stopped by
Gig’s recently
— 23 taps
Milos Kral
with crafted
offerings from local microbrewers, many
of which were one-off seasonals (obviously
the “no crap on tap” ethic is in play here).
Kral’s beer sommelier expertise will see
round out the beer, thanks to the use of opentank fermentation and top working yeasts.
Suggested pairings: WatermelonTomato Salad, Giardiniera (pickled
vegetables), cold lobster or shrimp,
Parma ham, pasta with white sauces,
creamy ripe cheese, banana cream pie,
and raspberry shortcake.
Schneider-Weisse Mein Nelson Sauvin (Tap X)
Birrificio del Ducato (New Morning) Saison (LCBO # 273706; ABV:
5.8%). This artisanal Saison comes
from Italy’s multi-award-winning
Ducato micro-craft brewery. It is
located in Roncole Verdi, a small
village in Parma County — birthplace
of composer Giuseppe Verdi and also the
source of Parma ham (Prosciutto), Parmigianino cheese, and sparkling wines such
as Lambrusco and Malvasia — a terroir of
simple pleasures, hearty tastes and great
artisanal passion. Ducato’s Giovanni Campari is a radical and visionary brewer. Under
his skill and commitment, Ducato brewery
has excelled in national and international
artisanal brewing competitions,
Continued next page ...
Gigs’ bottled beer selection expand to 80
imported Belgian and Trappist ales and
sought-after microbrews that you won’t
find on LCBO shelves. All this celebration
of fresh crafted beer in a slick upscale café
staffed with friendly informed people. Milos
tells me the Gigs menu will be replaced in
a couple of weeks by one stressing locally
grown ingredients and innovative but
unpretentious bistro/pub fare. There will
be a lunch and dinner menu with daily
specials. Other planned improvements
are to go to multiple cask beer handdrawn engines and a constantly revolving
selection of draft beers. Milos wants the
establishment to become a venue for events
that serve the local craft beer culture, like
brewer suppers, first tastings, and craft beer
pairing/tasting demonstrations.
All I can say after my first visit to Gigs is
that this is already the best on-tap Craft
beer selection west of the big smoke — I can
hardly wait to see Milos improve on that.
winning a surprising number of awards
with their leading-edge brews. Demand for
these edge-pushing brews has created a
lot of demand on the brewery’s
output, and it now exports a large
part of its production.
New Morning Saison is a topfermented pale ale that undergoes
a secondary fermentation in bottle. It draws its inspiration from
Walloon farmhouse Saisons. It
owes its surprising spiciness to
the use of wild flowers, chamomile, coriander, green peppercorn and ginger, and is dry,
yet satisfying, due to a blend
of barley, wheat and rye malts,
with some torrified oats
Birrificio del Ducato
for cereal depth. This
(New Morning) Saison ale’s ingredients bill
suggests exceptionally
floral and spicy aromas, malt depth, and a
finish with a quenching dryness and earthy
herbal bitterness. A consummate warmweather brew.
Suggested pairings: Fish and shellfish,
herb risottos, some varieties of semicured
cheeses, chilled Chicken Marbella, smoked
turkey cold cuts, and berry flans.
Malt Monk’s Taste of the Month
Samuel Adams Spring Lager (LCBO 286625
and on tap at better beer bistros). This is
actually a renamed Canadian version of
Boston Beer Company’s Sam Adams Alpine
Spring lager.
Whatever they
call it, it’s a
great example
of the German
Zwickelbier
style. Fresh,
unfiltered golden lager, full-flavoured and
thirst-quenching. Floral, cereals and citrus
aromas. Creamy mouthfeel, flavours of
fresh-baked bread, toasted cashew, and
honey, with a tangerine-skin citrus-hop
bite to balance, and a smooth dry finish. A
perfect summer patio lager.
THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a
passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in
the dialogue, and you'll find more of his personal impressions of the
beers in this column, at http://maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/.
NEW
SUMMER
MENU!
Enjoy a great selection
of beers on our outdoor
European-style patio!
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Dinner Theatre
122 Carling Street (at Talbot)
519-679-9940
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wine
Simple Pleasures
Summertime Wine Selections
By RICK VANSICKLE
S
ummertime, and
the living is easy.
And so, too, should
your wines be easy
— easy drinking. Most of
us would agree that fresh,
crisp (mainly) white wines
are the key to summer wine
enjoyment. You simply need
wines that chill up quickly in the
ice bucket, are readily available
when friends come calling, and
don’t cost an arm and a leg.
The heat of summer is tempered
somewhat by wines high in acidity (this
means refreshing), fruit laden, and generally
low in alcohol (because we tend to sip more
often when it’s hot outside).
You don’t have to look far for wines
that fit the requirements of refreshing.
Ontario’s cool climate wines seldom
lack the acid needed to make crisp
Rieslings, juicy Pinot Gris, or those
lovely herbaceous Sauvignon Blancs, all
of which are staples for summer sipping.
Ontario also produces some interesting
and refreshing rosé wines, especially the
dry and slightly off-dry styles, which are a
nice alternative to white wines.
I’ve rounded up a few favourites of mine
that are now available at the LCBO/
Vintages.
Pinot Gris: This wonderful variety is
finding a home in Ontario vineyards.
The wines made from Pinot Gris are
generally quite fruity, with apple and
melon flavours, and have a bit more
substance to them than Riesling. Here
are two to try:
Fielding Estate Pinot Gris 2011 ($22,
Vintages) — Fielding has the most complete Pinot
Gris program in Niagara, with three tiers: Rock Pile,
the “Estate” Pinot Gris, and the entry-level Gris.
This Estate Gris is gorgeous, with a nose of poached
pear, peach and tropical fruit. It’s lush
and fruity on the palate, with broad and
succulent flavours and a citrus kick on
the finish.
Malivoire Pinot Gris 2011 ($20,
Vintages in July) — A ripe and bold
nose of perfumed melon, blood orange,
peach, ripe summer apples, and an
interesting note of fennel. It’s very
friendly on the palate, with ripe orchard fruits
balanced out by zesty citrus notes.
Riesling: Nothing says crisp,
refreshing summer wine like Riesling.
The key for this grape is balance. As long as
the wine has enough acidity to balance out
the sweet notes, you will find this variety
a perfect companion for summer deck
sipping. Here are four very different styles
to choose from:
Fielding Estate Riesling 2011 ($19, Vintages) — This
was picked early (to retain the acidity) and finished at
22 grams/litre of residual sugar. It shows vivid lime,
citrus and peach on the nose. The flavours range from
grapefruit and lime to peach and subtle minerals,
with a hint of sweet honey, all balanced by good
acidity.
Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Two
Vineyards Riesling 2010 ($18, Vintages) — A
lime bomb on the nose with touches of tangerine
and fresh-cut apples. Quite tart on the palate, in
a refreshing style that delivers quince and lemonlime flavours.
Henry of Pelham Reserve Off-Dry Riesling
2009 ($16, Vintages) — A great example of an off-dry
style Riesling from the quality Short Hills Bench in
Niagara. The nose shows mineral-wet stone, apple,
citrus, and lanolin notes. The sweetness on the palate
is nicely balanced out by racy acidity and reveals ripe
grapefruit and citrus, peach and mineral. This will age
and improve for five or more years.
Rosewood Estates Natalie’s Sussreserve Riesling
2009 ($15, Vintages) — Sussreserve is a style that uses
unfermented Riesling grape juice that’s added back just
Continued on page 70 ...
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before bottling, which increases complexity and natural
acidity. The end result is a lighter style of wine (less alcohol)
with citrus-lime, grapefruit and lanolin aromas on the nose.
It has a zesty entry on the palate with bright apple-citrus
fruits and juicy peach flavours.
Rosé: For those who
like a little more oomph
in their summer wines,
rosés offer a refreshing
palate with fruit that
goes beyond the apples
and citrus-peach notes
of most summer whites.
Think cherries and
strawberries and even
some darker fruits. Rosés are also useful in
matching with a variety of foods. Here are
two to enjoy:
Fielding Estate Rosé 2011 ($16, Vintages) — Crafted
from Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot and made
in a refreshing and dry style. The cherry and strawberry
aromas carry to the palate in a beefy-tasty style that should
do well on your front porch.
Malivoire Lady Bug Rosé 2011 ($16, Vintages) — In
eatdrink 4 875 x 3 935.pdf
4/12/2012
many ways, this
is the signature wine for Malivoire, and
one
of the most easily recognizable labels in Vintages stores with
that distinctive lady bug crawling along the label. Winemaker
Shiraz Mottiar is quick to point out that the grapes that go
into this rosé (Cab Franc, Pinot Noir and Gamay) are grown
for that purpose and not as an
afterthought or as a place to put
red wine in off-vintages. The style,
he says, is “to be fresh and forward
on the palate and crisp.” It has
some weight, which gives it the
potential to match well with many
foods. It’s a wonderful rosé with
cherry-cranberry fruit and a bit of
earthiness and fresh herbs on the
nose. The palate reveals meaty
red fruit flavours, good acidity,
touches of fine herbs and small dark berries, and just a hint of
sweetness. Nicely balanced bistro-style rosé.
Other Whites: Some other good summer
whites include Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked
Chardonnay, and a few interesting blends.
Mike Weir Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($15, Vintages) — As
with all Weir wines, profits go to the Mike Weir Foundation,
which helps support children in need. This nice, little SB
2:48:40 PM
shows racy gooseberry, grapefruit and zesty citrus on the
nose. A bit of tropical fruit emerges on the palate with good
vibrancy through the finish. A fine SB at a great price.
Coffin Ridge Into the Light White 2011 ($17, winery
only) — A crazy blend of Geisenhiem, Riesling, L’Acadie Blanc,
Frontenac, Frontenac Gris,
La Crescent and Prairie
Star from this winery
located near Owen Sound.
I mention it here because
this is such a gorgeous
winery to visit in the
summer, and the owners
have dedicated themselves
to an interesting portfolio
of quality wines. This one
is a nice off-dry treat for
summer. Notes of peach,
green apple, citrus and
some tropical fruits on the nose. It’s off-dry on the palate, but
not overly so, with juicy peach, mango, grapefruit and zesty
citrus notes. It flows effortlessly down the hatch.
Coffin Ridge L’Acadie Blanc 2011 ($20, winery only)
— What a delicious and refreshing white. The nose is
classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with lime, grapefruit,
gooseberry, herbs and grassy notes. It’s pure and clean on
the palate with zesty citrus through the finish. Nice.
Rosehall Run SZ White 2011 ($15, Vintages) — A blend
of seven grapes, this white is a great bargain wine with an
expressive nose of fresh fruit, including peach, citrus and
apple. It’s slightly off-dry on the palate but balanced by
decent acidity. It’s vibrant, clean and refreshing, with apple,
citrus and lime flavours. From Prince Edward County.
Pondview Unoaked Chardonnay Sur Lie 2010 ($17,
Vintages) — A nose of green apple and lemon-lime. It’s
quite dry on the palate with mouth-coating apple fruit and a
touch of nuttiness to go with bright acidity.
Vineland Estate Chardonnay Musque 2010 ($18,
Vintages) — This variety is more aromatic than its cousin
Chardonnay and shows an impressive nose of pear, melon,
and pretty summer flowers, with just a hint of refreshing
lemon zest. It’s clean and ripe on the palate, with pure and
generous sweet fruit flavours that linger on the finish. A
delicious white for summer sipping.
Southbrook Connect White 2011 ($15, LCBO) — The
white Connect is made from 100% Vidal grapes from estate
and grower certified organic fruit. It’s a low-alcohol wine
(9%) and shows lovely peach, citrus and fresh tropical fruits.
It’s fruity and fleshy on the palate with ripe flavours for
everyday drinking.
Enjoy!
RICK VanSICKLE is a freelance wine writer who lives in
Niagara. He publishes a website (www.winesinniagara.com)
dedicated to Niagara wines and can be reached at winesniagara@
gmail.com.
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culinary education
Food Philanthropy Gets Down to Earth
Giving and Growing at The London Food Bank
By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD
G
ood food shapes so many
different aspects of our lives,
from the joyful anticipation of
seasonal favourites, like tasting
fresh strawberries sinking in
their own syrup and slicing
a beefsteak tomato still
warm from the sun, to the
satisfaction of fresh baking
or a home-cooked meal.
In these stressful times,
popular cookbooks brim with
promises of “comfort food” or
“just like your mama used to
make,” offering up a culinary
panacea for our troubled
spirits.
But imagine the stress of
suddenly being unable to feed yourself —
or your children. These are dark economic
times for many, as more and more people
are being affected by
layoffs, single parenting,
and the gritty challenge of
making dollars stretch.
For 25 years, the London
Food Bank has been
helping people to bridge
that gap with dignity.
Through the generosity of
volunteers and donations,
the Food Bank gives aid to
7500 people each month —
and this is a conservative
figure, since it doesn’t
include other agencies
throughout London that are assisted by
the food bank, such as St. Paul’s Daily
Bread, The Salvation Army, and Men’s
Mission, just to name a few. An even more
startling figure is the 1.41 million pounds
of food that was collected and distributed
in 2008. This amount represents $3.06
million worth of food.
Fresh foods, too
As we approach the most bountiful time of
the year for fresh fruits and vegetables, the
London Food Bank has teamed
up with the Community
Harvest movement and three
outstanding locations: Covent
Garden Market, Western Fair
Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market,
and Masonville Farmer’s
Market to share the bounty.
Like many clever ideas, this
one is a simple but appealing
concept: Come out and
support local merchants,
farmers and suppliers — and
at the same time buy a few
extras and donate them to the
Food Bank on the spot.
Josh Chadwick of the London Food Bank
is excited about the program and keen to
get the word out. “People
can get excellent produce,
support local growers,
and help the food bank all
at the same time. It’s like
the complete circle.” Josh
adds that the fresh fruit
and vegetables provide a
pleasant gathering point
at the Food Bank (where a
mini-market atmosphere
is often created with the
donations) and is very
much appreciated.
The London Food Bank’s
blog describes a poignant conversation
overheard between a young son and his
father at the grocery store. The child asks
for a can of tuna to have with the bread
they are buying but he is told to return it
to the shelf as they can’t afford it. Their
two other items are apples and a packet of
ramen noodles.
www.eatdrink.ca
For anyone interested in a more
hands-on approach, Community Harvest
has also teamed with London’s version of
Plant-a-Row, Grow-a-Row. This popular
program encourages participants to
plant a row of extra veggies in their own
garden, with the food bank specifically in
mind. Many people find this especially
rewarding. (Plus, so much zucchini, so
little time!) And when you’ve harvested
your donation, you can drop if off at
the same spots: Covent Garden Market,
Masonville Farmers Market, or The
Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans
Market, where it will be happily received
and distributed. (London Plant-a-Row,
Grow-a-Row also has a very good Facebook
page full of newsy updates and feel-good
stats about the program.)
Food is vital to our everyday way of life,
so let’s take the opportunity to help others
where we can. A single head of broccoli is not
much more than a toonie but makes a huge
difference to a family of four who is struggling. And, thanks to everyone mentioned
here, donating has never been easier.
73
For more information see the
London Food Bank’s excellent and
informative website:
www.londonfoodbank.ca
Masonville Place Farmers’ Market
1680 Richmond Street North, London
www.masonvillefarmersmarket.ca
Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market
www.londonsfarmersmarket.ca/
Covent Garden Market
www.coventmarket.com
Community Food Advisor Program
London Community Resource Centre
255 Horton Street, London
519-432-1801
www.lcrc.on.ca/community_food_advisor.html
SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD is a freelance writer who
also works in the London Public Library system. She lives in
London with her teenage sons and a floating population of dogs
and cats. Read more of Sue’s work at www.womenspost.ca
74
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books
Putting it All on the Table
The Table Comes First: Family, France, and the Meaning of Food
by Adam Gopnik
Review by DARIN COOK
A
dam Gopnik is an American
essayist who has made a career
of writing about France, most
notably in his best-selling
memoir, Paris to the Moon. His latest book,
The Table Comes First: Family, France,
and the Meaning of Food (Alfred A. Knopf,
2011, $29.95), tackles one of France’s most
endearing subjects — its cuisine. Gopnik
introduces his topic by writing, “More
people talk about food now — why they eat
what they eat and what you ought to eat,
too — than have ever done before.” And
he’s not referring to dieters droning on
about calorie counts and trans-fat content.
These are the foodies, the chefs, the
locavores, and the cookbook authors who
have cropped up since food has taken on
such a central role in cultural media.
Gopnik’s approach to food is highly
cerebral and scholarly, referencing many
philosophers and food writers and delving
into numerous aspects of eating. The
concept of taste, he writes, is very personal:
“If you
don’t like
Brussels
sprouts, I
can argue
you into
trying
them, but
I can’t
argue you
into liking
them.” But
it is still an
argument
worth
having,
he insists,
Adam Gopnik
to prove that we can
like certain food so
passionately that
we want everyone
to share it with
us. Recipes are
another personal
touch to cooking,
even though they
are rarely our
own. Although
most of the recipes
we use come from someone else’s
cookbook or are handed down from a
relative they serve as starting points to
create our own narrative in the kitchen.
At the other end of the dining spectrum,
from preparing a meal for your family
from a treasure trove of favourite recipes,
is to be treated like a guest of honour by
being served a chef’s creations at a fine
restaurant. Gopnik traces the origins of
restaurants to his beloved Paris in the
years straddling the French Revolution,
most notably in the Palais Royal building
across from the Louvre. Opening with
wine or spirits, ending with coffee or tea,
and eating several courses in between,
Paris gave us the first restaurant “scene,”
and the buzz about the food through the
words of gastronomic journalists was just
as important as the food itself in spreading
the word that a culinary revolution was
underway.
Gopnik also tackles trendy topics by
conducting his own experiment in localism
in the chapter entitled “Near or Far?” He
spends some time eating only food grown
and raised in his New York neighbourhood.
(When not in France, Gopnik resides in
New York, and believes one must try in
all circumstances to prove the value of
localism.) “We live in a food world where
everything is possible,” Gopnik writes.
But that doesn’t necessarily make it right,
he continues to say, because “where
every thing is possible, little registers.
To return to a world of limited choices
— these Brooklyn eggplants, this Staten
Island pepper — was to once again force
the flower of invention, to make the cook,
even one of limited powers, think again,
act more resourcefully, invent rather
than imitate.” Gopnik sees localism as
more of a stimulant for a chef because
of its narrowness, rather than being
overwhelmed by the swathe of global
food offerings.
Throughout the book, Gopnik has
inserted snippets passed off as emails,
in which he engages in a strange
correspondence with dead cookbook
author, Elizabeth Pennell, as a way to
channel his culinary talents with a kindred
spirit. He has high opinions of Miss Pennell
(I dare say, a culinary crush) and views
her as “the first to see the cookbook as a
literary form — a thing worth saving and
collecting, analyzing and writing for its
own sweet or savoury sake.” He calls her
“the rare kind of food writer who makes
you digress, turn from analytical scrutiny
to ardent fantasy.” Gopnik’s own style
takes these types of twists and turns in his
one-way communication with this dead
cookbook author; one particular discourse
being a comparison between rice pudding
and the guitar playing of Keith Richards.
How does this idea even form into a
coherent discussion, you may ask? In a way
only Gopnik can realize.
Even amongst these unusual diversions,
the book’s ultimate message is that food
is important, but it is the family and
friends who gather around the table to
share it that matter more. Gopnik writes:
“The table comes first in the sense that its
drama — the people who gather at it, the
conversation that flows across it, and the
pain and romance that happen around it —
is more essential to our real lives, and also
to the real life of food in the world, than
any number of arguments about where the
zucchini came from, and how far it had to
travel before it got here.”
DARIN COOK works and plays in the locality of ChathamKent and regularly contributes to eatdrink.
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August 10, 11, & 12, 2012
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Three Days – Five Venues
Grand Bend Legion and Optimist Youth Centre,
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Highlights include
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Water Acknowledgment Ceremony,
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• Oakwood Inn
• Mossop Media
• Philip Schmidt Outdoor Photography
The Great Lakes
Chowder Competition
Judging led by Chef Jonathan Gushue of Langdon Hall
Sunday, August 12, 1–4pm @ River Road Gallery, Grand Bend
76
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cookbooks
Rob Rainford’s Born to Grill
Over 100 Recipes from My Backyard to Yours
by Rob Rainford
Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL
I
f you’ve ever watched Rob Rainford
on his former TV show License
to Grill, you will know that Chef
Rainford is, in fact, born to grill. Now
he proves it in his new book, Rob Rainford’s
Born to Grill: Over 100 Recipes from My
Backyard to Yours (Rob Rainford; Appetite
by Random House; May 2012: $29.95).
Rainford demystifies the grill for those of
us who have always thought that BBQ was
just about lighting it up and hoping for the
best. He simplifies things by teaching us
there are really only two ways to cook on
the grill; low and slow or high and fast. He
offers many options to infuse maximum
flavour into the food, using marinades,
rubs and even a flavour injector.
He explains how to control the heat of different areas of the grill, giving outdoor cooking the same versatility and predictability
as the stove in our kitchen. How hot should
the grill be? Use the five-steamboat rule to
check. According to the chef, if you can hold
your hand over the grill to the count of “five
steamboat,” it’s the right temperature. Hotter than that and you will scorch the food.
Rainford loves to entertain at the Toronto
home he shares with his wife and daughters,
and this passion for sharing food and fun is
apparent in every page. Born to Grill mixes
and matches 100 of his favorite recipes into
twenty complete menus for a party every
weekend. Most of the recipes in this new
book are designed to serve a group of eight
or more, with fairly large portions. Rainford
may come from a fine-dining background,
but he is unpretentious about his food. He
invites the reader to change portions, leave
out ingredients they don’t care for, and
really make the recipes their own.
Born to Grill showcases what Rob calls
the “Rainford Method” for his recipes. His
goal is to break down recipes into their
simplest form
to make them
accessible to
professional and
amateur cooks
alike. He uses
photos at various stages of the dish, not
just the finished product, so we know when
we’re on the right track as we’re cooking.
His grilling methods work equally well
using a gas or charcoal grill, and he gives
instructions for the best use of both.
Rainford takes the backyard barbeque
and demands much more of it than just
burgers and steaks. His approach is a more
refined version of grilled food that still has
a casual family-style appeal.
The recipes in Born to Grill have an
international flavour inspired by the chef’s
travels as well as his Jamaican roots. The
flavours of Manila, Singapore and Kuala
Lumpur give an Asian influence to many
dishes. North African offerings include
lamb koftas and cinnamon-scented rice.
Rainford shares a recipe for Jerk Shrimp
Inferno, a fiery dish that can be served as
an appetizer or a main course and is sure to
please either way. Double the Jerk Marinade
for use on other meats. It’s that good.
Rainford prepares the hearty, meaty
dishes you’d expect to find in a book about
outdoor grilling, but he also does lighter
fare deliciously. From quiche to quail, fish
to fruit, stock to salad, the chef proves it’s
about more than just red meat. He shows
off the versatility of the grill by preparing
bread, biscuits and a classic Italian pizza
made on the barbeque.
And make no mistake, he offers us
amazing steak and burger recipes, too.
With so many delicious options, you’ll be
tempted to stretch the barbeque season out
until well past summer.
www.eatdrink.ca
77
JENNIFER GAGEL is a freelance writer and can be reached at [email protected].
Recipes courtesy of Rob Rainford, from Rob Rainford’s Born to Grill (Appetite by Random House, 2012)
Jerk Shrimp Inferno
The beauty of this recipe is that you can serve the
shrimp as an appetizer or an entrée. Either way,
it takes no time at all for the shrimp to cook, and
they’re guaranteed to be a hit! To serve the shrimp
as an appetizer, thread them onto soaked wooden
skewers before grilling, or simply arrange the cooked
shrimp on a platter.
1¾ cups (450 mL) Jerk Marinade
60 medium shrimp (16/20) count, peeled and
deveined (about 3 lb / 1.5 kg)
Canola oil for greasing
JERK MARINADE
¾ cup (185 mL) white vinegar
½ cup (125 mL) orange juice
¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil
¼ cup (60 mL) soy sauce
1 lime, juiced
1 tbsp (15 mL) dried thyme leaves
1 tbsp (15 mL) ground
allspice
2 tbsp (30 mL) garlic powder
1½ tsp (7.5 mL) dried red
chili flakes
1½ tsp (7.5 mL) dried ground
sage
1½ tsp (7.5 mL) freshly
ground black pepper
1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt
¾ tsp (4 mL) ground
cinnamon
¾ tsp (4 mL) ground nutmeg
1 cup (250 mL) chopped
onion
3 green onions, chopped
1 Scotch bonnet chili,
seeded and chopped
Blend all ingredients together in
a food processor until smooth.
Makes 1¾ cups (450 mL)
1 Combine the Jerk Marinade
and shrimp and marinate
for 15 to 30 minutes.
2 Fire up your charcoal or
preheat your gas grill.
You need a medium-high
grilling temp of around 350º
F (180º C). Prep the grill for
cooking over direct heat. Oil
the grate with canola oil.
3 Remove the shrimp from
the marinade and shake
off the excess. Place the
shrimp on the grill in an even layer. Cook for 2
to 4 minutes, turning once halfway through, or
until shrimp turn from grey to pink in colour.
Makes 8 appetizer servings or 4 main-course servings.
TIP: For an authentic West Indian entrée, serve the shrimp on a
bed of fluffy rice. Add some colour and flavour by stirring some
chopped parsley and finely diced shallots and sweet red pepper
into the rice during the last 5 minutes of cooking.
To continue this simple theme, open up a bag of fresh Asian slaw
and toss it with your choice of bottled light-tasting vinaigrette.
78
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Charcoal-Grilled Salt-and-Pepper Prime Rib Steak
This is one of my family’s favourites. Be generous with both the salt and
pepper here because they’re the only two ingredients you have to play with.
The steak can be grilled over either charcoal or gas, but
my preference is charcoal for this one.
1 onion, sliced
3 cloves garlic
2½ lb (1.25 kg) bone-in standing prime rib steak
Canola oil for greasing
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper to taste
1 Combine the olive oil, onion and garlic in a
resealable plastic bag. Add the steak and place in
the fridge for 4 hours.
2 Fire up your charcoal grill and prep the grill for
cooking over indirect heat. You need a mediumhigh temperature of around 350 to 400º F (180 to
200º C) to grill the steak. For gas grills, preheat the
grill to medium-high, then turn off one burner to
achieve indirect heat. Oil the grate with canola oil.
3 Remove the steak from the bag and season
generously with salt and pepper. Sear both sides
of the prime rib steak, then move the steak to the
cooler part of the grill to finish cooking. To get
an internal temperature of 125º F (52º C) for rare
meat, it should take just under 1 hour. Remove the
steak from the grill and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Lemon-and-Herb Grilled Onion Rings
2 tbsp (30 mL) red wine vinegar
2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped fresh thyme
2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tbsp (15 mL) finely grated lemon zest
4 sweet onions, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) slices
4 red onions, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) slices
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
to taste
1 Whisk together the oil, vinegar, lemon juice,
thyme, rosemary, parsley and lemon zest until
well combined.
2 Spread the onions in a single layer on a baking
sheet. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Drizzle the oil mixture evenly over the onions.
Cover and marinate in the fridge for 2 to 4
hours.
3 Fire up your charcoal grill and prep the grill
for cooking over indirect heat. You need a
medium-high temperature of around 350º
F (180º C) to grill the onions. For gas grills,
preheat the grill to medium-high then turn off
one burner to achieve indirect heat.
4 Place the onion slices over indirect heat. Cook
for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until well marked
and slightly softened.
5 Arrange onion slices on a serving platter and
serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Grilled Cornbread
½ cup (125 mL) butter
2⁄3 cup (160 mL) granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 cup (250 mL) buttermilk
½ tsp (2 mL) baking soda
1 cup (250 mL) extra-fine cornmeal
1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour
½ tsp (2 mL) kosher salt
Local beef, pork & lamb
preferred by top chefs!
Visit our retail outlet & cook
like a chef at home!
1 Fire up your charcoal grill and prep the grill
for cooking over indirect heat. You need a
medium-high temperature of around 350º F
(180º C) to grill the cornbread. For gas grills,
preheat the grill to medium-high, then turn off
one burner to achieve indirect heat.
!
W
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2 Grease a 9 x 5-inch (2 L) loaf pan.
3 Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Remove
from heat and stir in the sugar. Whisk in the
eggs until well combined.
4 Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the
buttermilk and baking soda until well combined.
5 Stir in the cornmeal, flour and salt until mostly
combined with only a few lumps. Pour the
batter into the prepared pan.
6 Place the pan on the cooler part of the grill and
close the lid. Cook for 30 to 40 minutes or until a
wooden skewer inserted into the center comes
out clean. Let the cornbread cool for 5 minutes
in the pan on a wire rack, then turn out of pan
and serve warm, cut into slices.
Makes 8 servings
Gently Packed Lamb, Beef, Pork &
Bacon Burgers.
Seasoned & Unseasoned
Great for the BBQ!
Hensall, Ontario.
Just off Hwy 4, 45 minutes north of London.
Open six days a week.
519-262-3130
www.metzgermeats.com
80
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cookbooks
La Tartine Gourmande
Recipes for an Inspired Life
Written and Photographed by Béatrice Peltre
Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL
I
like to dive right into a cookbook. I
don’t read the jacket, I completely
bypass the introduction — instead I
flip straight to the pictures and start
looking for recipes I’d like to try.
I had spent a very pleasant hour with
Béatrice Peltre’s first cookbook, La Tartine
Gourmande: Recipes for an Inspired Life
(Roost Books, 2011; $35), soaking up her
gorgeous photography and enticing
recipes, before I realized they are glutenfree and mainly vegetarian, with some fish
and prosciutto thrown in.
It’s a testament to the strength of the
recipes in this book that it’s not marketed
as a gluten-free cookbook. She uses food as
her artistic medium and her breathtaking
photography skills to illustrate the story of
her life.
Peltre began her love affair with food as a
child in the French countryside, where she
was allowed to eat as many garden peas as
she shelled, or more, to encourage her to
appreciate vegetables. Somewhere between
studying engineering and English, and while
travelling from France to Crete, Denmark
and New Zealand, she tried vegetarianism
and started experimenting with glutenfree flours,
while adding
international
flare to the
native dishes of
her youth. She
couldn’t stop
talking about
food to anyone
who would
listen and so
started a blog,
Béatrice Peltre
www.
latartinegourmande.
com, which
met with wild success.
She’s now an extremely busy international
food photographer, stylist and writer, with
contributions in premier publications the
world over.
La Tartine Gourmande (tartine
because she loves those open-face French
sandwiches so much, and gourmande
because it perfectly describes her) is a tour
of life with Peltre, where food is central.
Everything is fresh and seasonal, and the
variety of recipes covers the range of her
life. Some are involved and require that
you pay attention to the fine details, such
as soaking the onions in water to mellow
them before using in the Fingerling Potato
Salad. The Cumin and Parsley-Flavoured
Cheese Gougères are light savoury puffs,
well worth the two-step cooking process,
and are best accompanied by a glass of
champagne. Others are quick preparations,
such as the Raspberry, Lime and Coconut
Milk Creams, a quick dessert with gourmet
results that is impressive enough for
company. The use of almond meal instead
of flour complements the berries so well
that I think I’d prefer this version.
Peltre seems to not only have a keen
eye for the fresh, natural beauty of food,
but also a cheerful and hopeful way of
looking at the world, which comes through
beautifully. Mouthwatering photos for
every recipe will make you want to try
them all. It’s almost incidental that they
are healthy and good for you, as they are so
flavourful and satisfying.
JENNIFER GAGEL is a freelance writer and can be reached
at [email protected].
www.eatdrink.ca
81
Recipes courtesy of Béatrice Peltre, from La Tartine Gourmande (Roost Books, 2011)
Fingerling Potato Salad with peas, radishes and quail eggs
You can add French mustard to the vinaigrette for a dressing that is more piquant.
I sometimes also add fresh marinated anchovies and black olives.
Serves 4
2 tbsp (25 mL) pine nuts
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
Sea salt
12 quail eggs (use 4 chicken eggs if you cannot find quail eggs)
1 cup (130 g; 4½ oz) shelled green peas (fresh or frozen)
1½ lbs (675 g) organic fingerling potatoes
4 French pink breakfast radishes or regular pink radishes, thinly sliced
1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped chives
2 tbsp (25 mL) chopped flat-leaf
parsley
2 tbsp (25 mL) chopped basil
Pepper
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:
Sea salt and pepper
1 tsp (5 mL) French Dijon
mustard
3 tbsp (40 mL) lemon juice
1⁄3 cup (80 mL) olive oil
1 Toast the pine nuts in a frying
pan over medium heat for 2
minutes, or until lightly coloured
and fragrant. Set aside to cool.
2 Soak the onion in a bowl of cold
salted water for 20 minutes.
Drain and pat dry.
3 Boil the quail eggs for 3 minutes.
Drain and rinse under cold water
to stop them from cooking.
Shell the eggs and cut each in
half (quail eggs are slightly more
delicate than chicken eggs,
so go slow). If you use chicken
eggs, increase the cooking time
to 6 minutes. Once shelled,
quarter them.
4 Boil the green peas in salted
water for 3 minutes. Drain and
rinse them under cold water to
stop them from cooking and let
them cool.
5 Steam the potatoes for about 15
minutes, until they are cooked
through. Drain and let them
cool slightly, then peel and cut
them into ½-inch slices.
To prepare the vinaigrette:
6 In a small bowl, combine the ingredients in the
order listed. Whisk together to emulsify.
7 In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, onions,
peas, eggs and radishes. Dress with the
vinaigrette, herbs, and pine nuts, and season
with sea salt and pepper. Toss well and serve.
Note: If you make the salad ahead of time, you
might need to add a little more oil before serving.
82
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Cumin and Parsley-Flavoured Cheese Gougères
If you prefer to make a more traditional, and nongluten-free gougère, you can substitute 1 cup allpurpose flour for the quinoa flour and cornstarch.
Makes 18 gougères
½ cup (120 ml) whole milk
½ cup (120 ml) water
½ teaspoon (2 mL) sea salt
Pinch of pepper
6 tbsps (85 g; 3 oz) unsalted butter, diced
½ cup plus 1 tbsp (75 g; 2½ oz) quinoa flour
1⁄3 cup (40 g; 1½ oz) cornstarch
4 large eggs
5½ oz (150 g) grated cheese, such as Comté,
Beaufort, cheddar, Emmentaler, or Gruyère
1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tbsp (15 mL) cumin seeds
1 Make sure to have all the ingredients ready
before you begin, as it is important to work
quickly once you start.
2 Preheat the oven to 420º F (215º C). Prepare 2
baking sheets by covering them
with parchment paper; set aside.
3 In a pot, combine the milk,
water, sea salt and pepper
with the butter and bring to a
boil. Once the milk reaches the
boiling point, pour the flour and
cornstarch into the pot and stir
vigorously with a wooden spoon
until the mixture pulls away from
the sides of the pot.
4 Remove from the heat and let
the dough rest for 2 minutes. Add
the eggs, one at a time, stirring
quickly and waiting for the first
egg to be incorporated before
adding the next. The dough will
be smooth and elastic.
5 Add three-quarters of the grated
cheese and the parsley, and
stir until the ingredients are
incorporated. Scrape the dough
into a pastry bag fitted with a
wide plain tip and pipe into 1½-inch mounds
onto the baking sheets, with 2 inches between
them. Top each puff with the rest of the cheese
and the cumin seeds.
6 Place the gougères in the oven and bake for 10
minutes, then reduce the heat to 350º F (180º
C). Bake for 10 to 15 more minutes, until the
gougères are golden brown in colour. Remove
from the oven and let cool slightly before
eating. If you make them ahead of time, warm
them for 5 minutes in the oven at 350ºF (180º C)
before serving.
ED Note — For a more relaxed preparation, skip the pastry bag and
use a heaping teaspoon and a wet fingertip to shape the dough. It
is important to cook them to golden brown as in the photo or they
will collapse. If they are cooking unevenly, rotate the baking sheets
when you lower the temperature.
Raspberry, Lime and
Coconut Milk Creams
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this summer!
83
If you like desserts with a tang, then these limeflavoured creams are for you. Not only because the
dessert is full of zest, but also because it’s quick to
prepare and looks gorgeous when served in a glass.
Serves 4
four small glasses or ramekins
Unsalted butter, for the ramekins
7 oz (200 g) raspberries
2 large eggs
1⁄3 cup (80 g; 2¾ oz) blond cane sugar
Juice and finely grated zest of 1 organic lime
1½ tbsp (20 mL) butter, melted
1 cup (235 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
2 tbsp (25 mL) almond meal
2 tbsp (25 mL) cornstarch
Confectioners’ sugar, to dust (optional)
1 Preheat the oven to 350º F (180º C).
2 Butter 4 glasses (such as small 1-cup water
glasses) or ramekins and arrange threequarters of the raspberries in the bottoms of
them.
3 In a bowl, beat the eggs with the sugar until
well incorporated. Stir in the lime zest and juice,
the melted butter, and the coconut milk. Beat
in the almond meal and cornstarch. Divide this
lime cream among the glasses and add the rest
of the raspberries.
Cool & Serve Square Tray
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Apple Cider & Garlic Vinaigrette
4 Place the creams in the oven and bake for
25 minutes, or until the flan is set. Let cool
and serve at room temperature, dusted with
confectioners’ sugar, if using.
ED Note — Blond cane sugar is unrefined
sugar, cane sugar, or crystallized cane juice.
Regular white sugar can be substituted.
Salad
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Jill’s Tab
“When food matters,
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the very best to your table.”
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toll free 1.888.772.9994 • Hensall, ON
Available at Jill’s Table, Kingsmills, Remark Fresh Market & Bradshaws (Stratford)
84
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food writer at large
A Big Night Birthday
By BRYAN LAVERY
Y
ou may recall “Big Night,” one of the
great food films of all time. The plot
revolves around the preparation of an
elaborate multicourse feast centered
on timpano (a form of timballo, an intricate
multilayered pasta dome that differs from
region to region, and is also known as a tortino,
satu or bomba). At the heart of the film lies the
unquestionable truth that genuine gastronomic
pursuits are always labours of love.
On four separate occasions, I have recreated
this voluptuous feast, most notably as a fundraiser for the local Slow Food chapter a decade
ago. About a year ago, my eatdrink colleague
Jane Antoniak requested that I prepare the “Big
Night” for her upcoming special birthday celebration this April. It was something that Jane
had been thinking about for a long time. She had
heard about my “Big Night” celebratory dinners
but had never been able to attend.
At first I hesitated, then capitulated. It is hard
to resist this kind of challenge, even knowing
that the evening would surely be a pressure
cooker. The planning was lengthy. The commercial kitchen at the London Training Centre was
booked, but we soon realized that despite its
exceptional facilities it would not accommodate
Jane’s growing festivities.
I coerced my colleagues, uber-chefs Alicia
Hartley and Gary Rowsell to assist me with
the culinary gymnastics required to prepare
the meal. The evening commenced when
fifty of Jane’s family and friends arrived at the
On Lounge, setting the
Onyx
stage for an evening of
camaraderie and culinary
acrobatics. A table was
laden with charcuterie
sourced locally from
Metzger meats and
other antipasti; Ontario
wines and pre-dinner
aperitifs were poured.
Matthew McKenzie
expertly
settled
Jane and her
guests around a large
mom Betty
U-shaped table, which
had individual place cards instructing guests
where to sit. The kitchen
was immediately
transformed into a hub
of motion. Delicate,
steaming-hot
consommé enhanced
with slices of carrot
and Italian parsley
was ladled into
bowls and served.
Following a spectacular juggling act
of pans, we produced in unison a trio of
delicate, creamy risotti. One was flavoured
with fresh spinach and basil, another with
San Marzano tomatoes, and the third with
saffron and three artisanal cheeses. These
were ladled onto large platters to simulate the
three equal vertical bands of the Italian flag.
As in the film, we had poured our souls into
each course, lavishing care and attention on
the cooking to make sure the risotto was both
creamy and al dente.
The next course was timpano, the film’s
penultimate dish. We had prepared three, “two
heirs and a spare.” Meticulously assembled in
advance, it was a days-long process of sauce
and meatball-making that required hours of
groundwork and assembly by Gary and me, and
then additional baking.
Timing and kitchen-to-table flow was
paramount, and it was like balancing on a
tightrope, given the constraints of a single
oven. The unmoulding required an over-thehead balancing act to flip both the timpano
and platter. In order to accomplish this feat,
Gary had to not only act like a contortionist
but had to rehearse it several times to ensure
the timpano would unmould effortlessly and
remain intact. During one rehearsal, part of
the timpano slid down the back of Gary’s neck
and brand-new chef’s jacket. He remained
unfazed, and after several deep breaths and
numerous determined sharp knocks on the
side of the bowl, the next timpano emerged
from its giant bowl unscathed. The result was
visually stunning.
Far more dramatic in appearance than
previous versions, the timpano’s sturdy drum-
www.eatdrink.ca
85
shaped crust had been meticulously filled with
multiple layers that comprised: several types
of pasta and salumi, tomato sauce, béchamel,
homemade meatballs, mozzarella, provolone,
Parmigiano- Reggianno, cured olives, roasted
red peppers, pesto, and hard-boiled eggs, with a
final layering of flavouring of pesto and sauce.
Serving the Industry since 1944
To add to the razzle-dazzle of the evening,
the timpano paraded around the dining room,
OUR
which resulted in deafening applause and
flashing cameras and cellphones.
In the film you only catch a hint of the next
course, so improvisation and the constant
refocusing of the kitchen’s attention were
required. I was circulating with Jane’s guests
while Chef Hartley put the finishing touches
on two whole wild salmons that she had
infused with fennel. The salmon was then
presented to the guests on large platters.
Bowls of asparagus marinated in fresh lemon
and anchovies followed.
After a brief interlude, a whole, crispycooked pig, which had been spit-roasted
is about to start.
by area butcher Gerhard Metzger and
transported to London by Jane’s friend
Connie, emerged from its hot box. It
was assembled on a platter, garnished
Come in and see the
and paraded around the dining room to
abundant fanfare.
Returning to the kitchen, we spread the pig
out on the kitchen counter and realized to
our dismay the pig had not been completely
boned. Removing the bones from a pig is a
complicated butchering process; successfully
accomplished, it is a true adventure in
Complete lines of equipment, cookware,
cookery. We were in a hurry but miraculously
china,
234glassware,
William St.,stainless
London steel
managed to split the pig from loin to belly,
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ax: 519-432-0904
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then carved delicious pieces of meat which
were quickly plated and finished with a rich
pomegranate and honey butter sauce.
The evening’s self-indulgence was topped
off by a special birthday cake made by Jane’s
friend Eleonore, followed by overflowing
platters of cheese, nuts and fruit. It was
nearing eleven before the moveable feast
made its way to Jane’s home. The Onyx was
transitioning into its nightclub persona. The
evening surpassed all our expectations and
was the “Big Night Birthday” Jane had wanted
for a long time.
234 William St., London
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SHOWROOM
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86
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the lighter side
Going Gluten-Free
By JUDY J. THOMPSON
A
s one gets older, body parts start
letting you down. They wear out
like an old mixer. My doctor suggested a special diet. I cocked an
eyebrow at her. “What kind of diet?” Visions
of bland boiled eggs danced in my head.
She suggested, “A gluten-free diet?” I
groaned. All the cookies, fluffy bread,
and pasta dishes, not to mention
the tasty desserts I was quite
partial too, wavered in my mind
and vanished, leaving only bread
crumbs for me to follow if I chose
not to attempt this diet.
My doc had left me with the words
“a new challenge.” I asked myself, “How
hard could this be?” Doubt popped up like
warm toast, pointed a browned finger and
laughed outrageously.
So started my adventures in the glutenfree world. My first challenge was to find
wheat-free food, which had me venturing
outside my grocery store comfort zone and to
the aisles of g-free products at more upscale
stores. My first experience with gluten-free
products was akin to a cat hacking up a fur
ball. Let’s put it this way — have a glass of
something to drink after every bite. Preferably something with alcohol, because by the
time you’re done you’ll want to stick a sharp
knife in your eye for just agreeing to this.
I muddled my way through overpriced,
dry, crumbling products, bringing on a
rant the size of our fair city about how
manufacturers take advantage of specialdiet consumers, and how we have to pay
through the nose in order to survive!
Every time I discovered a new glutenfree item, anticipation made me salivate
like a dog waiting for a tasty morsel of food.
My taste buds were waving their arms with
a “shove it in, baby” attitude. They were
wanting something delicious, but each
time it was a flat failure, like an egg soufflé
falling in the oven.
One day I noticed an ad for gluten-free
products in the flyer of my neighbourhood
grocery store. Oh joy, oh bliss — and on sale! I
rushed to the store, light of heart, and nearly
kissed the clerk who showed me where these
products were. Craving, my new best friend,
rolled around my mouth in merriment as
I dreamed of pancakes drenched in maple
syrup and cake with frosting! Yummo!
And the products finally lived up to my
expectations. After the engorging,
Craving and I laid on the couch in a
sated slumber.
Eating in a restaurant was a mix of
anticipation and dread. It ended up
with me crying into my food, adding a
touch of salt. I could barely eat anything
on the menu besides salad, which now had
me making gagging noises. Throughout
this gluten-free year, I discovered that some
restaurants are starting to serve g-free
entrees. Pizza was the one thing I longed for.
I found Pizza Pizza, Boston Pizza and P-ZAPie all have wheat-free crusts.
Then I discovered three small glutenfree café/bakeries, Jubilee Kafe on South
Street, Healthy Creations on Springbank
Drive, and Organic Works on Wellington
Street. Angels from heaven sang as halos
of light beamed on these buildings. Bread,
pasta, cereals, scones, cookies and more
lined the shelves. I lovingly touched these
products and nearly cried. But the icing on
the cake of this discovery was the desserts:
brownies, cheesecakes, pies and cupcakes.
And the cherry on top of the whipped
cream was gluten-free butter tarts — I
thought I had died and gone to big g-free
heaven. My mouth was now a salivary river.
As soon as I got home, I tore into a butter
tart. Craving and I swooned as my taste
buds fell to their knees in contentment.
Doubt left, burned, while Frustration was
fried. Craving and I did a thumbs-up.
JUDY J. THOMPSON is a freelance writer and resides in
London with her husband, Victor. She has two children, Heather
and Matthew, and works in a local bookstore.
Masonville Farmers’ Market
SE Corner of Richmond St. &
Fanshawe Park Rd.
Open Every Friday & Saturday
8am to 2pm. From May to Oct.
Western Fair Farmers’ &
Artisans’ Market
Dundas St. East at Ontario St.
Open Every Saturday
Select Vendors Open On Thursdays
8am to 3pm. All Year Round.
519-438-5942
More Reasons To Shop Locally • www.londonsfarmersmarket.ca
NEW
SUMMER
MENU
NEW
WINE
LIST
COCKTAIL
LOUNGE
NOW
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SHADED
COURTYARD
PATIO
458-460 King Street · 519-434-7124 · www.aubergerestaurant.ca

A Winning Recipe at Abruzzi

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