Eating Up the - Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance

Transcription

Eating Up the - Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
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From Taquerias to Taverns,
a Road Foodie Discovers Dishes
Worth the Drive
by BRIGIT BINNS
Get lost with the
road foodie … she’s eating up
the West Coast!
Eating Up the
CH APTE R 1
CHAPTER 2
CHAPTER 3
C H A PT ER 4
Southern California
Northern California
Oregon
Washington
ROUTE 1 / 162 MILES
10
ROUTE 4 / 75 MILES
72
ROUTE 7 / 166 MILES
138
Vamos a Texcoco (Vista)
12
Sea Chest Oyster Bar and Seafood
Restaurant (Cambria, CA)
74
New Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro
(Talent, OR)
140
Pickled Fish (Long Beach)
204
78
Vita Cucina (Crescent City, CA)
146
Mill 109 Restaurant and Pub
(Pacific Beach)
210
Sebastian’s Store (Old San Simeon)
Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn (Big Sur)
84
Redfish (Port Orford, OR)
152
Ocean Crest Resort (Moclips)
216
ROUTE 5 / 96 MILES
88
ROUTE 11 / 109 MILES
Osteria Stellina (Point Reyes Station)
90
222
The Marshall Store (Marshall)
96
Michael’s Seafood & Steakhouse
(Port Angeles)
The Casino Bar & Grill (Bodega Bay)
102
Alder Wood Bistro (Sequim)
228
Franny’s Cup & Saucer
(Point Arena)
108
Sweet Laurette Cafe & Bistro
(Port Townsend)
234
The Olympic Timberhouse Restaurant
(Quilcene)
240
Like stumbling upon a winning lottery ticket, finding an unexpectedly delicious restaurant is one of
life’s great bonuses. In Sunset Eating Up the West
Coast, readers ride shotgun with author and “Road
Foodie” blogger Brigit Binns and her dog, Stella, as
they seek out more than 75 of the best neighborhood
cafes, steakhouses, diners, upscale eateries, breakfast
joints, and dives that the West Coast has to offer.
Part cookbook, part travelogue, Eating Up the West
Coast features the most scenic routes from Southern
California north through Washington State,
and venues that every foodie dreams of. Readers
discover what makes each eatery worth stopping for,
from roadside cafes to grand mountain inns, and are
treated to original restaurant recipes, plus local highlights from each of the 12 routes that make up this
gastronomic tour.
MORE THAN DISHES AND DRIVES…
Meet the chefs,
whose culinary
creations range
from ahi fish
tacos to truffled
cheese tortelli,
and enjoy their
kitchen tales
Hit the road
with Sunset,
the nationally
recognized
authority on
Western culture
Experience the
beauty that
people everywhere come
to see, from
National Parks
to roaring Pacific
Ocean views
ROUTE 6 / 168 MILES
112
Circa 62 Restaurant (Little River)
114
Mendo Bistro (Fort Bragg)
120
Woodrose Café (Garberville)
126
ROUTE 12 / 80 MILES
Oink and Moo Burgers and BBQ
(Fallbrook)
16
Apple Alley Bakery (Julian)
22
ROUTE 2 / 103 MILES
26
The Ranch House (Ojai)
28
Sides Hardware and Shoes (Los Olivos)
34
Bell Street Farm (Los Alamos)
40
Jocko’s Steakhouse (Nipomo)
46
ROUTE 9 / 91 MILES
ROUTE 3 / 93 MILES
50
The Ribcage Smokery (Pacific City)
Seaside Café & Bakery (Shell Beach)
52
Pier 46 Seafood (Templeton)
58
The Range (Santa Margarita)
64
ROUTE 8 / 153 MILES
Moonstone Grill (Trinidad)
130
ROUTE 10 / 101 MILES
202
220
246
Braeburn Restaurant
(Whidbey Island, Langley)
248
158
Sharkbites Cafe (Coos Bay)
160
Local Ocean Seafoods (Newport)
166
Otis Café (Otis)
172
176
178
Blackbird (Nehalem/Wheeler)
184
188
A’Town Bistro
(Anacortes, Fidalgo Island)
252
Castaway’s Restaurant & Tiki Bar
(Cannon Beach)
194
The Oyster Bar
(Chuckanut Drive, Bow, WA)
258
Astoria Coffeehouse & Bistro (Astoria)
Stop
12
406 Bell Street,
Los Alamos,
CA 93440
323-251-2865
www.bellstreetfarm.
com
Don’t
miss
dish
Roast
Chicken
Salad with
Rosemary
Croutons
and White
Bean
Hummus
BELL STREET
FARM
Los Alamos
$
Jamie Gluck has come full circle. His dad
owned the pre-Puck California classic
French restaurant, Etienne’s, but Jamie
bugged out to attend art school, and then
became a successful art designer in the
fashion industry. Fast-forward about
twelve years, when Jamie and his husband John Wentworth (an exec at CBS
Studios) bought a weekend home in
the then-backwater-esque town of Los
Alamos. “We just loved it,” he says,
“two days felt like four.” Picnic choices
were slim, so the two packed delectable
lunches for winery visits, then were
overrun by jealous folks dining from
Trader Joe’s bags. The two saw an unmet
need and, inspired by Zuni Café, Joan’s
on Third in L.A., and countless fantastic
French bistros, conceived and rather
quickly executed what Jamie calls a
“French restaurant masquerading as an
American cafe.” The backwater phase of
Los Alamos is clearly over, if the appreciative crowds at Bell Street are any
indication. “I am truly my father’s son,”
Jamie says with a sense of wonder. “I’m
absolutely dedicated to the fullest concept of hospitality.”
Farm Salad
SERVES 4
1 HOUR
I’ve been having a love affair with the quirky
little town of Los Alamos since I accidentally
discovered it during a gas stop back in 2009.
Sleepy and frontier-like, its popularity and
development got a small boost from the film
Sideways, but it will never be as polished and
presentable as it’s rich sister, Los Olivos.
(To me, that’s a GOOD thing.) The arrival of
the excellent and stylish Bell Street Farm cements
its rep as a bona fide worth-stoppin’-off-the-101
destination. But it still doesn’t detract from the
sleepy charm.
1.
Preheat the oven to 350°. Scrub the beets, wrap in a sheet
of foil, and bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until tender when
pierced with a knife. Cool, peel, and slice thinly.
2.
make candied walnuts: Line a baking sheet
with parchment paper. In a medium saucepan, combine
the sugar, water, bitters, and pepper over medium heat.
Stir constantly until the sugar has dissolved, then
simmer, swirling occasionally, until the bubbles turn
amber and break very slowly, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove
from the heat and add the walnuts; stir to coat the nuts
evenly. Spread onto the parchment and let cool. Chop
coarsely.
3.
In a large bowl, combine the lettuce, arugula, sliced
beets, and sliced apple. Add the vinaigrette and toss to
coat all the ingredients evenly. Divide the salad evenly
among four plates. Top with the candied walnuts and
crumbled blue cheese.
PER SERVING 685 cal., 70% (479 cal.) from fat; 14 g protein; 54 g fat
(9.1 g sat.); 42 g carbo (4.8 g fiber); 672 mg sodium; 21 mg chol.
42 / Southern California: Route 1
4 baby beets,
ends trimmed
Candied
walnuts
1 cup (4 oz.) walnuts,
roughly chopped
1/2
cup sugar
1/2
cup water
2 dashes Angostura
bitters
1/4 tsp. ground black
pepper
Pale inner heart of
1 head butter lettuce,
torn into bite-size
pieces
2 cups (2 oz.) wild or
baby arugula leaves
1 medium Granny
Smith apple,
scrubbed, quartered
and cored, and very
thinly sliced
3/4 cup Bell Street
Vinaigrette
(page 43)
4 oz. Point Reyes
Blue Cheese or other
creamy blue cheese,
crumbled
Roast Chicken Salad
with Rosemary Croutons
and White Bean Hummus
SERVES 4
ABOUT 25 MINUTES
At Bell Street Farm, the rotisserie chickens are
lovingly dusted with the mysterious Middle
Eastern perfume of zaatar spice, a blend
containing sumac, cumin, thyme, rosemary, and
black sesame seeds. Ideally, season a pastureraised chicken with zaatar spices and roast to
crispy perfection in your home oven. Or, use the
best-quality rotisserie chicken you can find.
White bean hummus
1 (15.5-oz.) can cannellini
beans, drained and well rinsed
1 clove garlic, minced or
pushed through a press
2 tsbp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2
tsp. minced fresh rosemary
1/4
tsp. fine sea salt
1/4
tsp. ground black pepper
PER SERVING 1,265 cal., 59%
(740 cal.) from fat; 77 g protein;
84 g fat (16 g sat.); 50 g carbo
(7 g fiber); 1,430 mg sodium;
201 mg chol.
Bell Street
vinaigrette
1.
make the hummus: In the bowl of a food processor,
combine the beans, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, rosemary,
salt, and pepper; process until very smooth. Add 2 to
3 tbsp. water, to make a nice dipping consistency. Divide
the purée among 4 small ramekins and set aside.
2.
make the vinaigrette: In a jar, whisk or shake
all the ingredients until emulsified. Vinaigrette will
separate; shake again just before serving.
3.
make croutons: Preheat oven to 350°. In a bowl,
toss the torn bread with the olive oil; season with salt and
pepper. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake until golden
brown, 18 to 20 minutes, tossing occasionally.
4.
to assemble: Working quickly, in a large bowl,
combine the vinaigrette and croutons. Toss to coat all
the ingredients thoroughly. Toss in the lettuce. Divide
among four plates and top each serving with two pieces
of chicken. Place the ramekins of hummus on the side,
for dipping the chicken pieces.
NOTE
3 tbsp. red wine vinegar
1/3
cup canola oil
1/3
tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1/2
tsp. Dijon mustard
1/2
tsp. fine sea salt
1/4
tsp. ground white or
black pepper
To easily cut a roasted chicken into serving pieces, use a good
pair of kitchen shears: Cut each breast crosswise into two
pieces, keeping the wing attached to one piece if desired; cut
the thighs from the drumsticks, keeping as much meat from
the backbone with the thigh as possible. Discard the
backbone or save in the freezer for stock.
8 oz. crust-less French
baguette, torn into bite-size
pieces (about 4 cups)
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt and freshly
ground black pepper
3 to 4-lb. chicken, warm,
cut into 8 serving pieces
2 heads butter lettuce, pale
inner hearts only, pulled gently
into bite-size pieces
43 / Southern California: Route 1
On
On The
The
Road
Hiking
Trails
around
Ojai
OJAI
Just south
of the Los Padres
National Forest,
Ojai is an idyllic
inland refuge from
the busy coast,
and hiking trails
range from easy
to challenging,
along creekbeds
and through
citrus and avocado
groves to mountainous peaks—
always with
excellent views.
You may even see
some Chumash
pictographs.
Choose from the
Shelf Road Trail,
Pratt Trail Loop,
and Last Chance
Trail.
Roast Pork Sandwiches
with Apple-Jicama Slaw
and Pickled Onions
On
On The
The
Road
1.
make the slaw: In a large nonreactive bowl, whisk
together the vinegar, sour cream, mayonnaise, salt, sugar,
and parsley. Add the jicama and apple and toss to mix. Cover
and refrigerate for 1 hour, to allow the flavors to marry.
2.
Remove the pork from the refrigerator and let stand for
1 hour at room temperature, so it will cook evenly. In a bowl,
combine the garlic, shallots, herbs, fennel, salt, pepper, and
1 tbsp. of the olive oil. (Alternatively, combine whole garlic
and shallots with herbs and remaining ingredients in a
mini-prep, and pulse to a chunky paste.) Rub this mixture all
over the pork, working it into all the nooks and crannies.
3.
Preheat the oven to 450°. Place a large heavy flame-proof
roasting pan over medium-high heat on the stovetop until it
is very hot (about 2 minutes); add the remaining tbsp. oil to
the pan. Place the pork fat-side down in the pan; reduce the
heat to medium-low and sear until deep golden brown, 4 to
6 minutes total, turning over once or twice. Turn the pork fat
side up and poke a heatproof meat thermometer into the
thickest part of the meat, not touching the bone. Transfer to
the oven with the thermometer facing the glass oven door
and roast for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°
and roast for 30 minutes more. Now, turn off the oven but do
not open the door. Leave the pork in the turned-off oven for
35 to 45 minutes, monitoring the temperature through the
door-front; it should reach 150° to 155°. (If it does not, return
the heat to 325° for 5 minutes more.) Remove from the oven and
let rest for 10 to 20 minutes. (For the full Bell Street effect,
make the sandwiches right away with warm pork; reheating it
slightly if necessary, but do not allow it to dry out.)
4.
to serve: Hollow the top and bottoms of the rolls slightly
with a fork, reserving the crumbs for another use. Carve
the pork across the grain about ¼ inch thick. Lay 3 or 4 slices
on the base of each roll and cram some of the slaw into the
hollowed-out roll tops. Top the pork with some of the pickled
onions. Sandwich the two halves together without losing
any of the filling, and compress firmly. Repeat to make the
remaining rolls.
MAKES 6 SANDWICHES, WITH SOME PORK LEFTOVER
2 HOURS; STANDING TIME 1 HOUR
Part of the immense appeal of Bell Street Farm is the
attention to detail in sourcing ingredients; quite a
feat for a tiny shop-front in a really tiny town. But
Jamie Gluck and his partner didn’t come to Los
Alamos to relax; they came to make something
beautiful, tasty, and community-oriented. I urge you
to borrow a page from Jamie’s book and find a source
of sustainably raised pork, preferably from a
heritage breed. Your taste buds, your friends—and
the planet—will thank you.
Full of Life Flatbread
LOS AL AM OS
Owner Clark Staub revolutionized the
(then-nonexistent) dining scene in this tiny
town when he opened his temple of local,
farm-to-table and wine-friendly cuisine
(with a great bar and huge wood-burning
oven). He’s now been joined by some
other fabulous eateries, but I still consider
him the reigning king of coolness.
Apple -jicama slaw
2 tbsp. white vinegar
2 tbsp. sour cream
2 tbsp. mayonnaise
1/4
tsp. fine sea salt
1/4
tsp. sugar
1/2
cup loosely packed fresh
flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely
chopped
6 oz. jicama, thoroughly peeled
and cut into fine matchsticks
(about 21/2 cups, firmly packed)
1 eating apple such as Fuji,
peeled, cored, and cut into fine
matchsticks
3 lbs. boneless pork shoulder
(Boston butt), trimmed
6 cloves garlic, peeled and
minced
2 medium shallots, minced
Spines from 3 sprigs fresh
rosemary, minced
1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp. ground fennel seed
2 tsp. fine sea salt
1 tsp. ground black pepper
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
To serve
6 ciabatta rolls, split
6 small, pickled onions, sliced
(page 222)
PER SERVING 621 cal., 28% (174 cal.) from fat; 55 g protein; 19 g fat (5.1 g sat.);
56 g carbo (3.9 g fiber); 3,175 mg sodium; 84 mg chol.
21 / Southern California: Route 1
WO R D FROM BR IG IT
You won’t find a better
breakfast or burger in
the tri-cities region !
75+
Restaurants
Brigit Binns is a cookbook author, food
blogger, and culinary instructor who
lives and works in the wine country of
Central California. She is lucky enough
to have turned her passion for food and
the outdoors into a career, authoring
and co-authoring more than 26 cookbooks, and contributing to many more.
Aside from working with culinary
greats such as Joachim Splichal,
Michael Psilakis, and Ryan Farr,
Brigit’s blog Road Foodie has been
named by the Huffington Post as one of
the “Best Food and Drink Websites.”
125+
Recipes
200+
Stunning
photographs
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