Public overview CP - ANIMA Investment Network
Transcription
Public overview CP - ANIMA Investment Network
------- Route ------of Mediterranean - Dairy - Products ---------------------- This publication has been produced as part of LACTIMED project with the financial assistance of the European Union under the ENPI CBC Mediterranean Sea Basin Programme. The contents of this document are the sole responsibility of ANIMA Investment Network, LACTIMED coordinator, and can under no circumstances be regarded as reflecting the position of the European Union or of the Programme’s management structures. LACTIMED aims to foster the production and distribution of typical and innovative dairy products in the Mediterranean by organising local value chains, supporting producers in their development projects and creating new markets for their products. The project is financed by the European Union for an amount of EUR 4.35 million (90%), through the ENPI CBC MED Programme. The European Union is made up of 28 Member States who have decided to gradually link together their know-how, resources and destinies. Together, during a period of enlargement of 50 years, they have built a zone of stability, democracy and sustainable development whilst maintaining cultural diversity, tolerance and individual freedoms. The European Union is committed to sharing its achievements and its values with countries and peoples beyond its borders. The 2007-2013 ENPI CBC Mediterranean Sea Basin Programme is a multilateral Cross-Border Cooperation initiative funded by the European Neighbourhood and Partnership Instrument (ENPI). The Programme objective is to promote the sustainable and harmonious cooperation process at the Mediterranean Basin level by dealing with the common challenges and enhancing its endogenous potential. It finances cooperation projects as a contribution to the economic, social, environmental and cultural development of the Mediterranean region. The following 14 countries participate in the Programme: Cyprus, Egypt, France, Greece, Israel, Italy, Jordan, Lebanon, Malta, Palestinian Authority, Portugal, Spain, Syria, Tunisia. The Joint Managing Authority (JMA) is the Autonomous Region of Sardinia (Italy). Official Programme languages are Arabic, English and French. © Copyright LACTIMED 2015 - No part of this publication may be reproduced without express authorisation. All rights reserved for all countries. Electronic version available on the website: www.lactimed.eu Development and writing: Jeanne Lapujade Graphic design and layout: Inmaculada Ruiz, Jeanne Lapujade Cover design: Mathieu Léger Other contributions: Lauriane Ammouche (dairy sector), Mahjouba Zaiter (Bizerte and Béja), Raffaella Ponzio, Alessandro Marzo and Caterina Di Grigoli (Sicily), Panagiota Sarrou and Dimitra Gaki (Thessaly), Fady Abou Fayad (Bekaa), Marion Kußmann and Nadine Gouda (Alexandria and Beheira) Tunisia : © 2015 Google – Landsat Italy : © 2015 Google - 2009 GeoBasis-DE/BKG Greece : © 2015 Google – Landsat Lebanon : © 2015 Google - ORION-ME - Landsat Egypt : © Google - Basarsoft 2015 - Landsat - 2015 ORION-ME © Armando Rotoletti, p. 22, 25 © Alberto Peroli, p. 24, 25 © Slow Food Archive, p. 24, 25 © www.funkycook.gr, p. 41 CC BY 2.0 - Kirti Poddar, p. 70 © 2015 dynasegyptiancooking.blogspot.fr, p. 70 © 2015 MiddleEastKitchen.com, p. 70 © 2015 mideats.com, p. 71 © 2015 tofo.me, p. 71 © 2015 zamanfrance.fr, p. 71 All pictograms and icons used in this document are under Public Domain and Creative Commons License with an allowed commercial use. These graphic elements come from www.all-free-download.com and www.freepik.com websites. Do you like cheese and dairy products? Did you know that Mediterranean countries have a strong tradition in this field? To discover it, we invite you to go and meet women and men who love their land and want to share it with others. Your journey will take you from Bizerte in Tunisia to Alexandria in Egypt, passing through Sicily, Thessaly and Lebanon. You will hike through pastures, learn how sheep, goats and cows are raised, how Pecorino, Halloumi and Rumi cheeses are made, and taste delicious local specialties. This new way of travelling is called agri-tourism and is experiencing growing success with tourists who have a strong appetite for exchange, discovery and authenticity. It consists of visiting a farm or any agricultural business with an educational and recreational purpose. In fact, it is part of the wider world of rural tourism, which covers alternative accommodation services (rural gest-houses, bed & breakfast, etc.), catering (guest meals, tasting wines and local products, etc.) as well as leisure activities (hiking, outdoor activities, cookery courses, etc.). By offering these types of activities, farmers and other local people can generate additional income, come into direct contact with the consumer and share their love of their job and countryside. For the traveller, it is a chance to rediscover rural life and to get to know farming and craft techniques as well as savouring healthy, traditional cuisine and meeting authentic individuals. The result is a unique and mutually rewarding experience! p. 8 p. 22 p. 38 p. 50 p. 68 Access guaranteed to persons with reduced mobility Accommodation at owner's place On-site restaurant Activity suitable for children Provider reachable online The Bizerte and Béja Governorates, located in the far north of Tunisia and of Africa, occupy a strategic position in the centre of the Mediterranean; a position which has exposed them to many foreign invasions and occupations down through the centuries. Together, they account for approximately 4% of the country’s area (3,750 km² for Bizerte and 3,740 km² for Béja) and 8% of its population (561,700 inhabitants for Bizerte and 306,300 for Béja, out of a total of almost 11 million). The region comprises a wide range of landscapes, including mountainous areas, valleys and green plains . As the region enjoys abundant rainfall and has fertile soil, it emerged as a natural agricultural hub. The Bizerte and Béja Governorates have respectively 55% and 67% of farmable land and 222 and 230 km² of rangeland. Forage and cereal crops are intensely cultivated there. The region also plays a highly-active role in market garden, tree and livestock production. Livestock totals around 87,000 cattle (including 50,900 dairy cows), 257,797 sheep (including 3,000 dairy sheep) and 44,640 goats in Bizerte, and 16,700 pure-bred cattle, 26,100 local-bred cattle, 225,500 sheep and 17,600 goats in Béja. Thanks to its mountainous areas, its valleys and its green plains, the Bizerte Governorate was the perfect environment for developing traditional breeding and for manufacturing typical dairy products, in particular sheep dairy products. Owing to its considerable cattle population (mainly Holstein cattle), and sheep population (exclusively Sicilian-Sardinian), the region is one of the largest milk-producing areas in Tunisia. Goats, whether local, Maltese, Damascene or Alpine breeds, also feature prominently. The prevalence of small-scale farms that favour a family environment is undeniable and indicates a strong sense of tradition. Sheep’s cheese (Sicilian, cooked or fresh, Rigouta, Testouri, etc.) constitutes a significant part of production. Sheep’s milk processing, a technique handed down from father to son, is totally in keeping with regional tradition, and is enhanced with family variants that are closelyguarded secrets. Founded about 3000 years ago by the Phoenicians, the city of Bizerte, due to its strategic location, its port and its channel, has always been coveted by foreign countries. It has been occupied successively by the Greeks, the Romans, the Arabs, the Spanish, the Turks and the French. The entrance to the old port is guarded by the Kasbah to the north and the Ksiba to the south. The Medina was formerly surrounded by ramparts, including the Spanish Fort, which still exists today. Strolling through the area, visitors can admire the Great Mosque, built during the 17th century and can browse the shops in the souks. Founded by the Phoenicians, Utica was only really mentioned in texts once Carthage came into existence. At that time, it had a port and a large fleet of ships. After the destruction of Carthage, it enjoyed sustainable prosperity. The main remains existing today date back to this period. Ghar el-Melh, which was Utica’s outer-port during the Roman period and the main port for privateers during the 18th century, has now become a quiet fishing village. To the north lies the Raf Raf plain, its market garden crops, its vines and its magnificent beach. Ichkeul National Park, located 25 km southeast of Bizerte, is listed as a Biosphere Reserve, a RAMSAR site and is recognized as world heritage by UNESCO. It comprises a 90 km2 lake, marshes and the Jebel Ichkeul Mountain (511 m). Every winter, it is a stopover point for 200 to 400,000 migrating birds. Furthermore, the Park is home to over 200 animal and 500 plant species. Local inhabitants have maintained a rural lifestyle, based on agriculture and craftsmanship. The Mogods are a range of mountains stretching from Sejnane to Rass al-Koran and peak at 500 m. The massifs are covered with oak forests and undergrowth. During the Arab invasions, the Berbers sought refuge there and developed traditional agriculture and craftsmanship. This well-irrigated region is composed of rich natural heritage, including the Jebel Chitana - Cap Négro National Park. Cap Négro still preserves remains from the trading post founded in the 16th century by the Royal African Company. Typical dairy products on offer are mainly cheeses (Rigouta, Testouri), milk-based beverages (Raieb and Lben), as well as traditional butter, yogurt, etc. The top-selling product is still milk (for which consumption has increased by over 10% over the last 10 years), followed by yogurt, which is increasingly in-demand and more and more diversified and, finally, cheese, whose share remains low. Cheese has one of the lowest consumptions for Mediterranean countries, especially in rural areas. 4 major categories of cheese exist: fresh cheeses in brine, cow’s milk and/ or sheep’s milk-based products; pressed cheeses, Gouda and Saint-Paulin types; processed cheeses; cheese specialities, veined cheeses and soft cheeses with bloomy rind among others, which are still marginal. Refreshing drink made from fermented milk served with traditional dishes such as couscous. Ancient recipe. Customarily churned with a goat kid’s skin. Sometimes served with pieces of butter. Traditional butter made from cow’s milk after extracting the Leben. Method inherited from pastoral traditions. Cooked fermented clarified butter made from Zebda arbi. Used in cooking or for pastries. Typical hand-moulded cream cheese made from cow’s milk from the village of Testour (north Tunisia). Sometimes flavoured with pepper or parsley. Soft cheese made from cow or sheep milk and whey. Soft cheese made from raw Sicilo-Sarde sheep milk. Can then be preserved in brine, dried and grated. Rounds of cooked cheese made from Sicilo-Sarde sheep milk. Fermented Sicilo-Sarde sheep milk. Matured cheese from Béja made with Sicilo-Sarde sheep milk and moulded into 2kg rounds. Rigouta from Beja is an artisanal whey cheese made entirely from Sicilo-Sarde sheep milk. The presence of this breed in Tunisia is an illustration of centuries-old exchanges across the Mediterranean. To optimise the production of various cheeses, producers use the whey by-product to make rigouta by adding fresh milk. Rigouta is set in perforated cylindrical pots of 0.6 to 1.5 litres. It is very popular in Tunisia and can be eaten as is but also used in many of regional dishes. This distinctive cheese, which can also be made from sheep milk, is very popular. The method for making Rigouta from cow milk has not changed. The technique for transforming sheep milk is passed down from father to son, giving it a strong regional identity. However each producer adds their personal touch and subtle nuances to enhance their own Rigouta. 1. "La petite Suisse" 2. Henchir Dheb 3. Tunisiaecotourism.com Image © 2015 Google - Landsat 4. Amina Najar Baccouri’s farm 5. Atka and Zied Ben Youssef’s farm 6. Ali Mastouri’s farm Visit around an organic dairy cattle breeding farm Adel Maiz was born in Ghar el-Melh, a village located 23 km from the farm. He arrived in Switzerland at the age of 17, where he pursued studies in mechanical design engineering and then worked there. In 2002, he decided to return to Tunisia as he missed his country and wanted his children to become familiar with the culture. He purchased 8 ha of land, situated 9 km from Utica and, in 2003, began cultivating legume crops and breeding. In 2010, he turned to organic breeding, with the help of the Abel Garnier Association for Environmental Agriculture. His collaborator Khawla Ben Salem, senior agri-food technician, manages the farm and is responsible for milk processing. "La petite Suisse" has been welcoming visitors since 2009 and proposes the following activities: Breakfast, including milk, butter, fresh cheese, eggs and honey from the farm, accompanied by traditional bread made by a local woman; Visit: stable, cattle livestock (around fifteen Holstein, Montbéliard, etc. cows), crops (barley, durum and ancient wheat, sulla), beehives, olive trees and hen house; Participation in evening milking; Demonstration of processing milk into yogurts, butter, cheeses, etc.; Visit to a goat breeding farm, thirty kilometres from “La petite Suisse”; Salad and grilled-food catering (depending on the season); Accommodation for up to 4 persons (2 bedrooms on the first floor of the farm). La petite Suisse Mateur Road Km 9 from Utica 7060 Bizerte Distance from Bizerte: 25 km Tunis: 30 km Béja: 110 km Mob: (+216) 23 037 539 (+216) 20 274 395 [email protected] Ferme "La Petite Suisse" en mode agriculture intégrée 9:00 - Sunset Upon reservation Rates (per person) Visit + Tasting = 7 € Breakfast + Visit + Lunch = 23 € Night + Breakfast = 23 € Night half-board = 32 € Best season Spring and autumn Gift ideas Dairy products (milk, butter, yoghurt, Ricotta, "La petite Suisse" tomme and delight, camembert, mozzarella), wild honey, free range eggs and chickens, seasonal fruits and vegetables Nearby accommodation Henchir Dheb (see opposite page) Al Alia Tel: (+216) 24 909 904 Nearby attractions and activities Utica ruins Ghar el-Melh fishing village and its 3 Turkish forts Bizerte, the old port, the Kasbah, the Spanish Fort, the Great Mosque Relaxation and gastronomy at the "Golden Farm" Jan Demeulemeester is a Belgian artist and painter who has been attracted to Arab countries, their natural light and their culture since childhood. In 2005, he settled in Tunisia and married Leila Derouiche Rafrafi, a Tunisian woman who worked in the hospitality sector. In 2007, they purchased a derelict old farmhouse on agricultural land where 200 olive trees, 60 pomegranate trees, 25 orange and lemon trees, as well as a few fruit trees were planted, surrounded by small-scale agricultural and livestock holdings. In 2009, they began renovating the farm using authentic materials, then decorated it with old furniture and contemporary works of art. In 2013, they opened their Henchir Dheb guesthouse; the name was written on an old notarial deed of the property and means the Golden Farm. The guesthouse comprises 3 double bedrooms designed around inner courtyards, a spacious living room with a fireplace, and a patio overlooking a magnificent garden with swimming pool. Meals are prepared with fruits and vegetables from the kitchen garden, meat from local breeders or fresh fish from Bizerte. Henchir Dheb hosts family meals and receptions in its living area or on the patio, around the swimming pool, or on one of its terraces. Jan and Leila also organize lunch-concerts. They invite their guests to visit neighbouring farms and to purchase their products (free-range chickens and eggs, cow’s milk, vegetables, etc.). Jan, who previously worked as a tour guide in Tunisia, knows the country well and is never short of suggestions for cultural and natural visits. Best season From April to October Gift ideas Fruits (pomegranates) and garden vegetables (potatoes, onions, fennel, carrots), cow's milk, free-range eggs and chicken from surrounding farms Nearby attractions and activities Trekking close to the house Bizerte, the old port, the Kasbah, the Spanish Fort, the Great Mosque Ichkeul Lake (National Park recognized as world heritage by UNESCO) Utica ruins Ghar el-Melh fishing village and its 3 Turkish forts Raf Raf beach Henchir Dheb Menzel Bourguiba Road then at the milestone km 21 Agricultural road on the left 7016 Al Alia (Bizerte) Distance from Bizerte: 18 km Tunis: 60 km Béja: 110 km Tel: (+216) 24 909 904 (+216) 21 243 536 [email protected] Henchir D'heb www.chambresdhotesbizerte.com All year-round Upon reservation Rates (per person) Night + Breakfast = 75 € / double room Meal = 15 € (light meal) / 25 € (full menu) An ecotourism agency located in the Bizerte region In 2007, Aymen Louhichi created Tunisiaecotourism.com, one of Tunisia’s first ecotourism agencies. He is supported by two associates and, based on visitor group size, by local guides. Tunisiaecotourism.com proposes several circuits in the Bizerte region: One-day circuit in Sejnane Trek of 8km and 200 m of elevation (2h) in the Mogods, a range of mountains between Sejnane and Nefza, covered with oak forests and peaking at 500 m; Arrival at Ahmed Chir’s farm around 11am: tasting experience, including tea, locallyproduced goat’s cheese, and Tabouna and Mlaoui breads cooked on-site, farm visit (field crops, Damascene goat breeding, cheese and butter production) and exhibition and sale of artisan products and aromatic plants; Second part of the trek over 4.5 km and 400 m of elevation (2h), and wild boar hunting. One-day circuit through the Ichkeul National Park Trek through the marshes then onto the north-west slope of the mountain to discover the fauna and flora of the Park, listed as a Biosphere Reserve (200 to 400,000 migrating birds during winter), a RAMSAR site and recognized as world heritage by UNESCO Ecomuseum visit; Tasting and sale of local products: honey, cheese, olive oil, tea (prepared with aromatic plants from the Park), traditional Tabouna and Mlaoui breads; Lunch in natural surroundings or at the home of one of the Park’s inhabitants. Aymen Louhichi can organize other circuits for one or more days, upon request. Tunisiaecotourism.com 57 avenue Hassen Nouri 7000 Bizerte Distance from Tunis: 65 km Béja: 110 km Tel: (+216) 20 580 620 (+216) 24 442 444 [email protected] Tun Ecotourism www.tunisiaecotourism.com Every day 7:00 – 18:00 Upon reservation Rates (per person) Variable depending on the circuit Circuit in Sejnane = 75 € Best season Spring and autumn Gift ideas Goat cheese, honey, aromatic plants, essential oils and ceramic products (pottery from Sejnane) Nearby accommodation Dar El Janna Guest House (Dar El Jana Beach) Tel: (+216) 29 10 11 12 Dar El Kasba Guest House (Bizerte Medina) Tel: (+216) 24 99 08 41 Nearby attractions and activities Bizerte, the old port, the Kasbah, the Spanish Fort, the Great Mosque Discovery of the Tarentaise cattle dairy farming Amina Najar Baccouri, an agricultural engineering graduate, grew up in Tunis. She began her farming activity, in 1990, on land that she rented before going on to purchase land from the State in 1998 and launching an integrated agricultural development project, which comprised field crops and Tarentaise cattle breeding. Amina has been a member of the Tunisian Organization of Tarentaise Cattle Breeders (GERT) since its inception. The GERT totals around thirty breeders who are convinced of the value of this race for cattle breeding in Tunisia. The Tarentaise has the advantage of being a race that is bred for both dairy and meat purposes, and has a great ability to adapt to feeding and climate changes. Down through the years, the GERT imported from France three herds of around a hundred head of heifers and reintroduced this race in Tunisia. The organization is currently working on the promotion of Tarentaise meat and milk. Wishing to pass on the love of her job, Amina has been welcoming groups of young people and enthusiasts to her home since 2004. As such, they have the opportunity of taking part in the various activities on the farm: the breeding of 70 Tarentaise cattle (milking, looking after, feeding, etc.), field crops (forage, prairies, pasture land), viticulture (grape harvesting at the end of August). Amina also invites guests to visit her stables where she breeds 80 Arab Thoroughbreds and to visit neighbouring sheep-breeding farms. And, last but not least, she organizes workshops on manufacturing Sicilian type fresh cheese and milk jam. She can accommodate 2 persons, in basic conditions, in her cattle farm. Best season All year-round Spring for breeding End of August for grape harvesting Nearby accommodation Hôtel SPA (Mateur) Rue de Rabat Tel: (+216) 72 47 56 33 Nearby attractions and activities Ichkeul National Park (Biosphere Reserve, recognized as world heritage by UNESCO and RAMSAR site) Joumine Dam Oued Zitoun geysers and waterfalls Bizerte, the old port, the Kasbah, the Spanish Fort, the Great Mosque Amina Najar Baccouri Chegaga Road 7030 Mateur (Bizerte) Distance from Bizerte: 40 km Tunis: 60 km Béja: 65 km Mob: (+216) 98 673 201 [email protected] Groupement des Éleveurs de la Race Tarentaise All year-round Upon reservation Rates (per person) Variable depending on the activity and the number of participants Visit to a sheep breeding farm in the Béja mountains The Ben Youssef family have been Sicilian-Sardinian sheep breeders for generations in North Béja, an area that is characterized by its highland pastures, the abundance of its fresh water sources and a mild climate from February to October. In 2007, Zied teamed up with two members of his family and established “From Art Béja”, Béja’s artisanal cheese dairy. To ensure they have an adequate supply of milk, the associates grouped their herds together in 2010 and created “The Three Farms”. The semi-intensive breeding combines natural pastures and concentrated feed, mainly produced on the farm. The ewes are hand milked morning and evening. The cheese dairy produces fresh Sicilian cheese, mature cheese, ricotta, yogurt, butter and sheep whey, which are sold via a store in Béja and another in Tunis. Seeing their customers’ curiosity, Zied and his wife Atka have been offering since 2012: Breakfast with dairy products and other typical products from their farm; Visit around the Sicilian-Sardinian sheep breeding farm (between 80 and 250 head of sheep, depending on the year) and participation in afternoon milking; 2-3 hour treks in the surrounding area of the farm; Demonstration of processing 20 to 40 litres of milk into fresh cheese and ricotta; Catering with traditional dishes like “Birzguen” (sweet couscous with meat) and “Ftet” (semolina flatbread with lamb) or grilled food and salads; Accommodation for up to 4 persons (2 bedrooms in the farm). Zied and Atka Ben Youssef Farm Km 16 on Béja-Nefza Road Béja North Best season From April to October "La Ferme" Outlet Avenue Habib Bourguiba 9000 Béja (Béja) Gift ideas Sheep yogurt, butter and whey, Sicilian cheese from Beja, ripened cheese "The Three farms", ricotta, olives and honey from the farm, Tabouna bread, "Graeif" flatbread from Béja Distance from Tunis: 120 km Bizerte: 110 km Mob: (+216) 96 136 326 (+216) 98 628 983 [email protected] Trois fermes Trois fermes - Béja [email protected] All year-round Upon reservation Rates (per person) Breakfast + Visit + Trek = 9 € Light menu = 12 € Typical menu = 18 € Night + Breakfast = 30 € Nearby attractions and activities 2-3 hour treks in the surrounding area of the farm (maps with trails made available) in a landscape that includes mountains, water sources, etc. Sidi Salem and Sidi El Barrak dams Amdoun, Thibar and Teboursouk forests Cap Serrat beach and lighthouse Tabarka and its fishing port Discovery of the Jebel Chitana-Cap Négro National Park A native of Nefza, Ali Mastouri is the Chairman of the Local Organization for Agricultural Development and Fishing. His family has been farmers, breeders and beekeepers for several generations in the Jebel Chitana-Cap Négro National Park. Aware of the Park’s vast natural and cultural wealth, Ali set himself the objective of exploiting its potential by developing organic fruit, vegetable and honey production and commercialization, as well as proposing agritourism and ecotourism offers. Since 2005, he has been proposing activities to discover the Park’s fauna and flora, traditional practices and culture, as well as its animal and plant production: Participation in farming activities (milking the animals, extracting honey, harvesting the vegetables and wheat, extracting essential oils, etc.); Hikes in the Park and environmental education; Sea trip with traditional fishermen; Tasting the farm’s organic products; Sale of home produce and visit to the weekly market; Catering with traditional dishes from the region prepared with seasonal fruits and vegetables; Accommodation with locals (4 to 6 persons in his family home + 8 to 10 persons in neighbouring farmers’ homes). Best season Spring and autumn Gift ideas Dairy products (raw milk, traditional butter and butter extract), honey, free range chicken and eggs, fruits and vegetables Nearby accommodation Alrawabi Hotel (Nefza) Route de Bizerte Avenue de la République Tel: (+216) 78 470 576 Phenix Hotel (Béja) Avenue de la République Tel: (+216) 78 450 188 Nearby attractions and activities Jebel Chitana-Cap Négro National Park Sidi El Barrak dam Cap Serrat beach and lighthouse Tabarka and its fishing port Ali Mastouri Cap Négro Road - Km 16 9010 Nefza (Béja) Distance from Béja: 55 km Bizerte: 100 km Tunis: 170 km Tel: (+216) 20 965 195 [email protected] Mastouri Ali All year-round Upon reservation Rates (per person) Visit + Night full-board = 45 € Visit + Tasting + Traditional meal = 23 € The largest island in the Mediterranean at 23,327 km², Sicily is situated between the tip of the Italian boot and Cap Bon in Tunisia. It is surrounded by the Ionian, Tyrrhenian and Mediterranean seas and comprises mainly valleys (62% of the land area) and mountains (24%). In the space of just a few kilometres, its stunning landscape ranges from the heights of Mount Etna, Europe’s highest volcano at 3,330 metres, to small sandy coves. North of Mount Etna, on the other side of the Alcantara Valley, rise the Sicilian Apennines, the island’s main mountain range. Running parallel to the Tyrrhenian coast for a distance of 200 km, it is an extension of the Calabrian Apennines. With its rich and fertile soils, geographical situation and favourable climate, Sicily is perfectly suited to agriculture. With more than 1.7 million hectares of farmland, it boasts vast expanses of natural pastureland (making it the third most important region in Italy, with 76% of its livestock grazing), exceptionally high quality fodder, very diverse wildlife and sizeable herds of sheep and goats (the second most important region in Italy). Successive waves of foreign domination by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Angevins and Aragonese, made their mark on the landscape in the form of new crops and left traces in habits and lifestyles in the region and in food and cooking in particular. © Armando Rotoletti Milk and cheese production in Sicily dates back to the Greco-Phoenician period, and some products can be traced back to pre-Hellenic times. Livestock products were, for a long period of time, the only currency used between different peoples - an ancient tradition which endowed Sicily with the vast array of cheeses it boasts today. Cow’s milk (mainly from the Friesian and Brune des Alpes breeds, which are preferred due to their high milk yield) is most popular. Sheep’s milk (particularly from the Pinzirita and Comisana breeds) has been experiencing a slight decline, whereas the production of goat’s milk (breeds such as Maltese, Girgentana, etc.) and buffalo’s milk is steadily rising. A well-organised and effective dairy industry exists alongside more typical and traditional agricultural production, which has been long-established in the generous soils of Sicily. The westernmost section of the Sicilian Apennines, the Madonie Mountains, with their many springs, provide water for the city of Palermo. The island’s second highest peak, Pizzo Carbonara, reaches a height of 1,979 m. Its rich heritage is embodied in its many palaces and hilltop churches. Although it covers only 40,000 hectares, the park is home to a very large number of animal and plant species. The Park Centre in Petralia Sottana and its branches in Petralia Soprana and Castelbuono provide information on places of interest, activities and accommodation. An extension of the Madonie Mountains to the east, the Nebrodi Mountains are characterised by gentler slopes and rounded summits and are dominated by Monte Soro (1,847 m). Created in 1993, the Natural Park covers an area of 85,000 hectares and boasts the biggest oak and beech forests in Sicily (approximately 50,000 ha). It is home to a wealth of wildlife, including vertebrates and invertebrates. The relatively wild natural surroundings offer countless possibilities for outdoor activities and fpr discovering rural culture. The Park Centre is in Caronia and there are branches in Sant’Agata Militello and Cesaro. Covering an area of 1,570 km² and reaching an altitude of 3,323 m, Etna is Europe’s highest active volcano. Its south face is strewn with heaps of volcanic rock, whilst the north-eastern slopes are covered with lush vegetation. Established in 1987, the Park boasts many species of trees, mammals and birds, as well as various fruit crops. A walk along the signposted paths provides an opportunity to enjoy all that this rich and complex area has to offer. The Park Centre is in Nicolosi. Agritourism, which is highly developed in Italy, is one of the best ways of getting up close to nature and discovering local culture, traditions and cuisine. Sicily has a large number of agritourism attractions, both on the coast and inland. This guide showcases activities designed to enable visitors to learn about Sicily’s typical dairy production. Sicily produces a diverse range of topquality products thanks to the remarkable organoleptic properties of its milk. These products draw their character from their regional grounding, native animal breeds and traditional knowhow. Indeed, Sicilian dairy production wins renown for its large variety of working methods, raw materials – for example some cheese makers use vegetable rennet such as fig sap – and key products, whether made from cow’s milk (Caciocavallo, Provola dei Nebrodi or delle Madonie, Tuma Persa, etc.), sheep milk (Maiorchino, Pecorino Siciliano, Piacentinu Ennese, Canestrato), goat milk (from the Girgentana goat breed), or combinations of these (mixture of whey from cow, sheep or goat cheese). All in all, a windfall for Italian consumers: currently over 90% of the country eats cheese at least 2 to 3 times a week! Pressed cheese made from raw whole sheep milk. A sprinkle of saffron is added to the cheese before it is pressed into reed baskets forming a cylindrical shape. Bright yellow dotted with black peppercorns. © Alberto Peroli Hard semi-cooked cheese made from cow’s milk or a mixture, clotted in a wooden vat then hand-pressed. Sometimes flavoured with black pepper, Bronte pistachios, rosemary, etc. © Slow Food Archive Dairy product obtained from the whey of cow, sheep, goat or buffalo milk. Some varieties are dry cured, aged (Ricotta salata), smoked (Ricotta affumicata) or baked. Hard cheese made from raw sheep milk. Cylindrical cheese made from fresh, whole milk and clotted with lamb rennet. Pale-yellow rind, semi-hard. Retains the pattern of the reed baskets it is moulded in. © Slow Food Archive Hard cheese made from sheep and raw cow’s milk. Cylindrical amber-coloured cheese that browns as it matures. Pale-yellow hard paste. © Slow Food Archive Soft cow’s milk cheese. Created by chance after an incomplete fermentation of a Canestrato, the cheese’s surface is covered in Penicillin-type natural mould that gives the thin rind its green-grey colour. White, soft and compact paste. © Slow Food Archive Stretched curd cheese made from cow’s milk. Cheese made from raw whole milk clotted with lamb or goat kid rennet. Parallelepiped, smooth, thin, hard rind, pale yellow to straw-coloured, browns as it matures. Also comes in a smoked variety. © Armando Rotoletti Stretched curd cheese made from raw cow’s milk. The Cacciocavallo paste is kneaded according to traditional methods (accuppatina) into a oblong. Hard, smooth, pale-yellow rind with ivory white paste. Variants with butter and lime. Hard cheese made from cow’s milk. Raw milk clotted with goat kid rennet. Cheese moulded then left to age for 8 to 10 days before reaching an ochre colour that darkens during the “cappatura” (preservation in olive oil and ground pepper). Soft, light paste. © Slow Food Archive Caciocavallo Palermitano is traditionally made from the remarkable milk of Cinisara cows. This breed of cows produces very little quantities of milk that is remarkably fragrant and rich in fat thanks to the typical vegetation of the mountain scrubland around Palermo. © Alberto Peroli The rectangular stretched curd cheeses are aged in cool, natural cellars on wooden shelves. After maturing for a year, the Palermitano offers a long-lasting flavour, with hints of citrus, sage and straw, accompanied with a subtle spicy endnote.. 1. Invidiata 3. Fattoria Fabio 2. Kalat Scibet 4. Fratelli Borello Image © 2015 Google - 2009 GeoBasis-DE/BKG 5. Asilat 7. Fattoria Vassallo 6. Girgentana tour 8. Massaria Ruvettu Dairy farm visit and accomodation in the Madonie Park A qualified agricultural engineer, Sandra Invidiata grew up in Collesano, in the heart of the Madonie Natural Park. On the death of her parents, she decided to take over the family estate and set up a livestock farm and dairy-processing facility. She makes original cheeses and other products from organic cow’s milk. Keen to teach people about her work and her region, she has been welcoming visitors for over ten years. She offers many different activities: Farm visits and tasting of organic cheeses made on the farm; Educational farm for schools and groups (animal care and feeding, milking, dairy processing, cheese ageing, packaging); Accommodation in 3 detached cottages a few kilometres from both the farm and Collesano; Buffets featuring local produce available (for groups of 20 or more); Cheese making workshops and pottery classes; Half-day nature and culture tours: Gibilmanna Sanctuary, Piano Battaglia, Piano Zucchi, towns and villages in the Madonie Natural Park, Cefalu, etc. Azienda Agricola Zootecnica Invidiata Contrada Santa Anastasia 90016 Collesano (PA) Distance from Cefalu: 30 km Palermo: 66 km Catania: 161 km Tel: (+39) 0921 661536 Mob: (+39) 328 4723440 [email protected] Azienda Agricola Invidiata All year-round Upon reservation only Rates (per person) Visit / Educational farm + Tasting = 6 € Buffet lunch = 15 € Accommodation = 25-30 € Best season Spring and autumn Gift ideas Ricotta, Provolla delle Madonie, mature Canestrato and Primo Sale cheese, raw cow’s milk, Badda di Polizzi beans Restaurants in Collesano Casale Drinzi Contrada Drinzi Strada provinciale 9 Tel: (+39) 0921 664027 La Lanterne Via Isnello 76 Tel: (+39) 339 8881837 Nearby attractions and activities Madonie Regional Natural Park Starting points of hiking routes close to the farm Castle and churches in Geraci Siculo Discovery and trekking with Ragusano donkeys Situated in Calascibetta, near Enna, Stefania Greco’s farm covers 10 hectares and offers magnificent views of Mount Altesina and Mount Etna. Descended from a long line of olive growers, Stefania took over the family estate in 1999 and introduced Ragusano donkeys, a hardy breed indigenous to Sicily. She is currently rearing around twenty donkeys which graze freely in the pastures. The milk produced is sold directly to consumers or is used to make cosmetics in a laboratory in Pachino, in the province of Syracuse. Therefore, Stefania Greco offers a range of creams and soaps made with donkey’s milk and plants -some wild and some grown on the farm. In partnership with the Madonie Outdoor association, based in Petralia Soprana, she Donkey’s milk also offers trekking expeditions of between 1 and 7 days in the is very rich from a Madonie Mountains. The donkeys accompany the walkers and nutritional (it is carry their belongings, camping or birdwatching equipment, or similar to human small children. Treks between Calascibetta and the Madonie milk) and dermatoMountains can also be arranged during the transhumance period. logical point of view. Best season Spring and autumn Gift ideas Fresh Donkey’s milk, donkey’s milk soap and face cream, plant-based soaps and body oils Accommodation and restaurants in the Madonie Mountains Casale Villa Rainò (Gangi) Contrada Rainò Tel: (+39) 0921 644680 Nearby attractions and activities Madonie Regional Natural Park Gangi, winner of the 2014 Most Beautiful Village in Italy competition Opportunities to explore paths through the wheat fields between Gangi, Sperlinga, San Mauro Castelverde and Geraci with Madonie Outdoor Kalat Scibet Farm c/da Casalotto, Manna 94010 Calascibett (EN) Distance from Catania: 80 km Palermo: 113 km Treks with Madonie Outdoor around Petralia Soprana Mob: (+39) 333 7110266 [email protected] [email protected] Kalat Scibet www.madonieoutdoor.it Farm: All year-round (7:30 - 20:00) Treks : April - October (upon reservation) Rates (per person) Variable depending on the circuit and the formula Farmhouse fare and cheese-making Founded in the 1990s, deep in the Nebrodi Mountains, Fattoria Fabio has, over the years, grown to become an educational farm. However, it has lost none of its human dimension and traditional character. Having started out in market gardening, the Fabio family then began rearing local Galatese and Rocca del Castra sheep, both endangered breeds, along with Camosciata goats and dairy cows. A cheesemaking facility was added in the 2000s. The cow’s, goat’s and sheep’s milk is used to make typical local cheeses. Keen to pass on its enthusiasm for the beauty, craftsmanship and traditions of the Nebrodi Mountains, Fattoria Fabio has been welcoming visitors for over ten years. Young and old alike can meet the animals and explore the farm’s fields, help to care for the animals, and watch the cheese-making process (from milking to ageing). Visitors can then sample the goods in a tasting session or as part of a full meal. The menu includes a starter (a selection of cheeses, deli products, fried antipasti, and cooked vegetables), a first course (from a choice of 4 pasta dishes), a second course (lamb, mutton or braised Nebrodi black pork), fruits and a dessert. Fattoria Fabio has been listed in the Slow Food ‘Osterie d’Italia’ guide since 2005-2006 and the ‘Ristoranti di Sicilia’ guide since 2013. The family speak Italian, English, French and German. Fattoria Fabio Contrada Sciara (Baccì) 98070 Galati Mamertino (ME) Distance from Messina: 110 km Palermo: 160 km Catania: 200 km Tel: (+39) 0941 434042 Mob: (+39) 389 1628966 [email protected] Fattoria Fabio www.fattoriafabio.it All year-round Upon reservation only Rates (per person) Cheese-making + Tasting = 10-15 € Full menu = 25-30 € (including demonstration) Best season Spring and autumn Gift ideas Cheese (Provola dei Nebrodi, Canestrato, Ricotta) and other products from the farm and the local area Nearby accommodation B&B Il Palmento (Galati Mamertino) Vico Abate Crimi, 6 Tel: (+39) 388 3558951 Agriturismo Il Vignale (Longi) Contrada Pado Tel: (+39) 339 8881837 Nearby attractions and activities Nebrodi Regional Natural Park Village of San Marco d’Alunzio Hiking routes from Alcara Li Fusi to Rocche del Crasto and from Portella Scafi to Portella Femmina Morta Discover the culinary specialities of the Nebrodi Park Situated in the northeast of the Nebrodi Natural Park, the Borellos farm is a showcase for local cuisine. The trattoria opened in the 1970s and then, ten years later, the business diversified into livestock farming, market gardening, arboriculture and olive growing to enable them to offer top-quality, fresh local produce. Their livestock consists of Nebrodi black pigs, Girgentana goats, Cinisara cows and other endangered animal species, all of which roam free over an area of 100 hectares. The Nebrodi black pig is a hardy indigenous breed which feeds mainly on acorns and roots and sleeps in dry-stone pigsties. Its delicious meat is cooked in the restaurant or is processed to make local deli products. The farm also has a cheese-making facility where Provola dei Nebrodi, Canestrato and Ricotta cheese and other typical dairy products are made. Minuta olives (a rare variety) are also grown and pressed to make a refined oil. The farm produces 99% of the ingredients used in the restaurant and these are also on sale in the adjoining shop. For over 15 years, the Borello family have been offering their customers the chance to learn how these products are made. They have recently been awarded educational farm status . Best season Spring and autumn Gift ideas Cheeses (Provola, Ricotta and Canestrato), Nebrodi Black pork meat and products and other local produce Nearby accommodation La Sorgente Hotel (Sinagra) Contrada Santa Lucia, 4 Tel: (+39) 329 5969102 Azienda Ponte Due Archi (Raccuja) Contrada Gridà Tel: (+39) 3287182465 Nearby attractions and activities Nebrodi Regional Natural Park Bosco di Malabotta nature reserve Medieval village of Montalbano Elicona Cathedral and caves in Novara di Sicilia Milazzo Castle and the Sanctuary of St. Anthony of Padua Trattoria F.lli Borrello Contrada Forte 98069 Sinagra (ME) Distance from Messina: 66 km Catania: 105 km Palermo: 166 km Tel: (+39) 0941 594844 [email protected] Trattoria F.lli Borrello www.trattoriaborrello.it Lunch and dinner Closed: Wednesdays (except August) and early July Farm: upon reservation Rates (per person) Full menu = 20-25€ Visit + Lunch/Dinner = 30€ Tasting = approx. 10€ Educational farm + Lunch = 10-20€ Discover an endangered breed of goat Descended from the Markhor goat native to Afghanistan, the Girgentana is believed to have been brought to Agrigento by the Greeks in 500 BC and, later, taken further afield by the Arabs in 800 AD. This is probably how Agrigento got its name. During the 1970s, goat breeders, who up to that time had sold their fresh milk to their customers at their homes, were prohibited from taking their animals into the villages. As a result, the Girgentana goat population fell from 60,000 to just a few hundred at the turn of the century. In 2002, a Slow Food Presidium was set up to protect this endangered breed. This led to the founding, in 2007, of the Association for the Protection and Promotion of the Girgentana Goat. The group now has a membership of 13 breeders. To raise public awareness of the Girgentana goat, the association has created a 100 kilometre long discovery tour (it can be covered in 1 or several days), which includes the following: Visit to the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, where 5 Girgentana goats have been reintroduced (panels and brochures providing info about the trail are available here); Opportunity to meet and learn about various breeds of goat such as Girgentana, Comisana, Barbari, Maltese and Ionian at Calogero Contino’s farm in Favara; Farm visit, meal and accommodation at Fattoria Vassalo in Licata (right-hand page); Demonstration of how Girgentana goat’s milk cheese is made using lactic acid bacteria or animal or vegetable rennet at the Giacomo Gati dairy in Campo bello di Licata; Visit to Canicatti to meet Giovanni Fazio, the man who saved the Girgentana breed by taking over the last remaining herd, which had belonged to his father; Stroll through the pastures with the youngest breeder in Joppolo Ganciaxio. Starting point Valley of the Temples Strada Panoramica dei Templi 92100 Agrigento (AG) Distance from Palermo: 160 km Catania: 170 km Mob: (+39) 336401734 [email protected] www.capragirgentana.eu Valley of the Temples: Everyday 8:30 - 19:00 Other activites: Upon reservation only Rates (per person) Valley of the Temples = 5-10€ Prices vary for other activities of the tour Best season Spring and early summer Gift ideas Girgentana goat’s milk cheese specialities (Robiola, Caciotta, Fiorita, Minnuzze Ficu) from Giacomo Gati in Campo Bello di Licata Nearby accommodation Fattoria Vassallo in Licata (see opposite) Fattoria Mosè (Agrigento) Via Mattia Pascal, 4a Tel: +39 0922 606115 Nearby restaurants Fattoria Vassallo (see opposite) Fattoria Mosè (Agrigento) Via Mattia Pascal, 4a Tel: +39 0922 606115 Farm retreat and introduction to organic stock farming Former director of the Agrigento branch of the Regional Directorate of Agriculture and secretary of the Association for the Protection and Promotion of the Girgentana Goat, Ignazio Vassallo set about restoring the family farm in 2002, converting it into an ethnographic museum featuring period objects and agricultural equipment. The business is now managed by his children Salvatore, Laura and Federica. Covering approximately 45 hectares between the towns of Licata, Palma di Montechiaro, Naro and Camastra, it has about twenty Girgentana goats, hens, rabbits, along with vineyards, olive groves and almond trees, etc. There is also a dairy processing facility, where cheese and yogurt are made, and demonstrations and workshops are organised. Fattoria Vassallo was the first farm in Sicily to be awarded educational farm status and it regularly welcomes school groups who come to learn about agriculture. The farm’s own produce is used to prepare delicious local dishes, which can be enjoyed in the spacious restaurant. The Vassallo family also offer accommodation. Best season Spring and early summer Gift ideas Yogurt, Girgentana goat’s milk cheeses (Robiola and Caprini) and other farm products (wine, extra-virgin olive oil, almonds, cereals, etc.) Nearby attractions and activities Girgentana tour (see opposite) Valley of the Temples in Agrigento Church of Santa Maria dei Greci Scala dei Turchi cliffs Torre Salsa nature reserve Fattoria Vassallo Contrada da Volpara 92027 Licata (AG) Distance from Agrigento: 33 km Catania/Palermo: 130 km Messina: 227 km Tel: (+39) 092223947 Mob: (+39) 3204430490 [email protected] Fattoria Vassallo www.fattoriavassallo.it Continuous and flexible working hours to meet the needs of visitors Rates (per person) Demonstration = 10 € Sample of 7-8 cheeses = 20 € Night (3 persons) = 70 € Donkey-themed activities at the foot of Mount Etna When her baby son was diagnosed with a severe allergy to cow’s milk, Ketty Torrisi was advised to feed him donkey’s milk. So amazing were the results, that she decided to buy some donkeys and rear them to provide milk for her son. Realising that other women face the same problem, Ketty then increased the amount she produced and set up Asilat. The farm currently has around a hundred donkeys, produces approximately 30 litres of milk a day and regularly supplies about 60 families with milk. It has been open to visitors since 2002. The following activities are on offer: ‘Milky Way’ Tour: farm visit with an opportunity to sample donkey’s milk, sweets and liqueurs made from it; Educational farm (groups of 20 children or more): a fun way to learn about farm activities; Brunch (groups of 8-20 persons): farm visit and opportunity to sample a buffet of typical local dishes; Donkey trekking (groups of 8-20 persons): half-day treks (9:30 - 12:00) in the Baron Nicolosi forest (zone B in the Etna National Park), followed by a farm visit and an opportunity to taste donkey’s milk. Asilat - Ketty Torrisi Via Miscarello-Salice, 41 95100 Giarre (CT) Distance from Catania: 30 km Taormina: 30 km Messina: 70 km Mob: (+39) 333 5275920 [email protected] Asilat srl www.asilat.com Tuesday - Sunday 9:30 - 13:00 / 15:30 - 18:00 Upon reservation Tarifs (par personne) ‘Milky Way’ Tour = 6-8 € Educational farm = 5 € Brunch = 22 € Donkey trekking = 15€ Best season Spring and autumn Gift ideas Donkey’s milk and cosmetics (soap, creams, tonic lotion, make-up remover) Nearby accommodation Barone di Villagrande (Milo) Via del Bosco, 25 Tel: (+39) 095 7082175 Nearby restaurant 4 Archi (Milo) Via Francesco Crispi, 9 Tel: (+39) 095 955566 Nearby attractions and activities Etna National Park Etna Wine Route Walks above the Bove valley and on Mount Sartorius Seaside resort of Taormina Discover the sheep and cheeses of the Belice Valley Built in the early 18th century, Massaria Ruvettu is situated 600 metres above sea level, on the slopes of Mount Adranone and the Mount Genuardo and Santa Maria del Bosco nature reserve. Surrounded by forests, vineyards, olive groves, meadows and pastures, it enjoys sweeping views of the Selinunte coast, Lake Arancio and the small town of Sambuca. It is managed by Melchiorre Mangiaracina and his family, who believe in cutting out the middlemen, and prefer to take charge of the whole production process themselves. They breed Valle del Bellice sheep (along with horses, donkeys and other farm animals), produce Pecorino Siciliano PDO and Vastedda della Valle del Belice cheese and run the restaurant which adjoins the farm. The sheep spend all year in the pastures, returning to the farm only for milking, and are fed on fresh herbs or hay grown on the farm. Since 2010, the Mangiaracina family have offered visits to the cheese-making facility, including a demonstration of the different stages in the cheese-making process and an opportunity to sample hot Ricotta, Vastedda del Belice PDO and Pecorino primo sale cheese. Guided tastings featuring their cheese and locally produced wines can also be arranged. Finally, Massaria Ruvettu has a spacious restaurant, where diners can enjoy traditional and authentic Sicilian fare. Best season Spring Gift ideas Cheese (fresh sheep’s milk Ricotta, Pecorino primo sale, Pecorino Siciliano PDO, Vastedda della Valle del Belice) Accommodation in Sambuca di Sicilia La Regina Di Adrano Contrada Adragna Tel: (+39) 338 205 4646 Massaria Ruvettu Contrada da Galluzzo 91016 Adragna Sambuca di Sicilia (AG) Distance from Palermo: 80 km Agrigento: 90 km Trapani: 90 km Mob: (+39) 338 1894990 [email protected] Don Giovanni Contrada Pandolfina Tel: (+39) 0925 942511 Massaria Ruvettu www.ruvettu.it Nearby attractions and activities Mount Genuardo and Santa Maria del Bosco Nature Reserve Hiking (10 km of signposted routes) Santa Maria del Bosco Abbey Everyday Upon reservation Rates (per person) Tasting = 10-15 € Full menu = 25-30 € A historic region of Greece, Thessaly has a coastline on the Aegean Sea and is situated between Macedonia to the north and Epirus to the east. It has a population of 750,000, covers an area of 14,037 km² and is divided into 4 prefectures: Karditsa, Larissa, Magnesia and Trikala. Its capital, Larissa, is ideally situated between Athens and Thessaloniki. The great central plain is surrounded by impressive peaks such as Mount Olympus, the Pindus range, Mount Othrys and Mount Pelion. It has access to the Aegean Sea through the Tempe Gorge and the Gulf of Volos. A highly diversified agricultural sector grew up in the Thessaly basin in classical times. At that time, wheat and livestock were the region’s main assets and a vital commodity. Thessaly was also known for its horse breeding and cavalry units. Today, the region produces olives, vines, almonds, lentils and fruits, but cereals remain the main crops. This region alone accounts for 9.5% of the entire country’s farms (more than 76,500). The agricultural tradition and a good communications network encouraged the development of food processing industries. Thessaly is extremely proud of its cheesemaking tradition, a legacy of the nomadic and semi-nomadic origins of a large proportion of its breeders and cheesemakers. Pastureland is vital to the breeding industry and livestock consists mainly of small ruminants. The dairy industry is also important in the region and traditional products made from sheep’s and goat’s milk, including the most iconic, Feta PDO and traditional yogurt, are increasing in demand. Although goat farming is in decline, sheep farming, on the other hand, is flourishing in response to ever-growing demand. Dairy farming has declined somewhat but has become more efficient and profitable. Thessaly is a key player in the dairy industry, accounting for almost 20% of the country’s milk production and more than 30% of all its Feta cheese! The preservation of traditional cheesemaking techniques, passed down from generation to generation, infuses the local cuisine, which is inextricably linked to the region’s identity. The smallest of the four prefectures, Karditsa occupies the southwestern part of the region. Its capital shares the same name. The terrain is semi-mountainous and reaches an altitude of over 2,000 m on Mount Agrafa, at the southernmost tip of the Pindus range. The region boasts a rich biodiversity and varied landscapes. Lake Pastiras is a designated Natura 2000 protection area which attracts tourists interested in flora and fauna and outdoors pursuits enthusiasts. The mountain villages, with their inns and traditional festivals, have lost none of their authenticity. Larissa covers an area of 5,412 km² in the northwest of the region. Mounts Olympus, Kissavoa and Mavrovouni rise to the north. To the east, the prefecture has 34 km of coastline and magnificent beaches on the Aegean Sea. The central area consists of a vast plain, drained by River Pineios, on whose banks the lively town of Larissa grew up. Mount Olympus, dubbed the Parthenon of Greek nature, is the country’s highest peak and. It has been classified as a national park since 1938 and is home to several endangered species. Situated to the south of Larissa, Magnesia covers an area of 2,646 km², two thirds of which is mountainous. Its lush natural environment is complemented by myriad beaches and coves. The home of the Centaurs in the Iliad, the Pelion Peninsula is surrounded by the Pagasetic Gulf and the Aegean Sea. Volos, the Argonauts’ departure point for their quest for the Golden Fleece, is now the main port for the Sporades. To the south stands Mount Othrys (1,760 m), famous for its narrow canyons. Trikala covers an area of 3,384 km² in the northwest of Thessaly. Most of the terrain is mountainous or semi-mountainous. The main mountain range, the Pindus, is covered in forests, where deer, wolves and bears still roam. The prefecture boasts 3 Natura 2000 protection areas: Aspropotamos, Koziakas and Meteora. Each year, the Meteora attract large numbers of visitors, who come to marvel at these monasteries which appear to be suspended in the sky. Greece produces a large range of dairy products, cheeses in particular. Out of the 84 PDO products, 21 are cheeses. One of them is exclusively made in Thessaly: the Graviera Agrafon. Yogurt (cow, sheep or goat) is also one of the many traditional dairy products made in Thessaly, along with butter, creams, rice pudding, and more. There are five main types of Greek cheese: cheese in brine like classic Feta and Mpatsos; soft cheese like Galotyri and Kopanisti; semi-hard cheese like Kaseri; hard cheese like Kefalotyri; low in fat whey cheeses like Anthotryo and Mizithra. Although several cheeses, such as Feta, are produced in several regions the richness of the Thessaly pastures gives them unique organoleptic properties. Cheese is an essential part of Greek cuisine, making Greece the largest consumer of cheese in the world (around 30 kg per annum and per capita)! White to yellow, soft to semi-hard cheese with or without holes; aged three months. Rich aroma, pleasantly delicate and slightly sour to taste. Cheese made from sheep and/or goat milk. Fresh or ripened, semi-soft to semi-hard conical or spherical, dry and white cheese. Fresh variant less sharp and creamier. Semi-hard to hard white cheese made from sheep and/or goat milk in brine. Also eaten fried to release its full aromas. Rind-less, generally cylindrical cheese made from whole sheep and/or goat milk. Light fragrance, delicate butter flavour. One of the oldest cheeses produced by Thessalonian traditional methods. Made from sheep and/or goat milk and aged for two months. Soft, malleable texture (spreadable), rind-less, fresh and creamy. Sharp, refreshing, pleasant flavour and aroma. Made from the whey of sheep, goat and/or cow’s cheese. Fresh or aged, rind-less spherical cone cheese. Slightly tangy cheese made from sheep and/or goat cheese. Lumpy or smooth yoghurt texture. Very low in salt. Cheese made from sheep and/or goat milk in cylindrical moulds. Rich, creamy aroma, slightly salty with spicy notes. Fresh, smooth and creamy cheese made from sheep and/or goat milk, almost like yogurt. Made at the end of summer when the milk is very rich. Pleasantly salted and very slightly sour. Spreadable fromage blanc with a slightly lumpy texture. Ancient cheese from the Elassona’s mountains made entirely from goat’s milk. Light, long-lasting salty and slightly sour flavour. The number one of Greek cheeses, Feta is made from sheep and/or goat milk left in brine and produced exclusively in Macedonia, Thrace, Epirus, Thessaly, Central Greece, Peloponnese and on the island of Lesbos. The breeds of animals that produce the milk have adapted to the region and feed mostly on natural vegetation, which gives the cheese its characteristic flavour, particularly in Thessaly with its rich biodiversity. Feta is a soft cheese aged for at least two months. It has a pleasant, slightly sour flavour and a strong aroma. It can be eaten on its own, as part of a meal or with fruits. It is also used to prepare pastries and traditional dishes. Organic Feta is also produced from organic milk. Feta has been held the European GPI label since 2002. The animals’ fodder of wild grasses, flowers and herbs means they produce one of the creamiest and most flavoursome milks in the world. It has notes of thyme, marjoram and pine. Feta is frim, compact and crumbles easily. It is rind-less and full of minute holes. Both goat and sheep versions have a salty tang and are rich in flavours that evoke the pasture. 1. Kissas dairy 2. Amarantos dairy © 2015 Google - Landsat 3. Voskos cooperative Visit a family-run dairy in Mouzaki The Kissas dairy is a family business. In 1969, the father set up a small dairy in the 1,000-metre high village of Petrochori. The milk was heated in cauldrons over a wood fire to produce Feta cheese and other traditional dairy products. To meet growing demand, Kissas first extended his dairy and later, in 2005, relocated to new premises in Mouzaki, where he can produce up to 20 tonnes per day. His son then took over as manager. The equipment is now more modern, but Kissas still produces with respect for tradition and a passion for dairy products. Keen to transmit their passion to visitors, the family offer the following activities: Tour of the dairy and its small museum of traditional implements; Visit to milk suppliers (particularly a traditional farm in the mountain village of Elati); Opportunity to help collect milk on the dairy’s refrigerated lorry; Tastings featuring cheese, Tsipouro brandy and locally produced wines; Buffets, featuring cheese and other local produce. Kissas is also involved in a project to restore Patlias’ traditional sheepfolds on the mountains above Petrochori for use as accommodation for hikers. Kissas Petrochori Karditsa Branch 43060 Mouzaki (KA) Distance from Larissa: 80 km Thessaloniki: 245 km Vólos: 138 km Tel: (+30) 24450 41470 [email protected] Fetakissas www.kissas.gr Monday - Saturday 7:30 - 17:00 (on reservation) Max. 20 persons Rates (per person) Visit + Tasting (1h) = 3 € Best season From May to August Gift ideas Feta, Greek yogurt, Tsilafouti (salted liquid yogurt) and Graviera Agrafon Nearby accommodation & restaurants Keramario Hotel (Drakotrypa) Traditional tavern and guesthouse Tel: (+30) 24450 61470 Megdovas Hotel - Zarnavalos Restaurant (Kalyvia Pezoulas) Tel: +(30) 24410 92377 Nearby attractions and activities Plastiras Lake Climbing and paragliding sites in Porti Hiking, motocross and jeep trails starting from Petrochori Hike from Karamanoli to Mount Boutsikakis (2114 m) through pastures Cheese tasting with a view of the Meteora Situated opposite the Meteora in Kalambaka, the Amarantos dairy gets its name from a village in the Pindus Mountains, where Grandfather Paidis, a breeder, set up a small dairy to process the milk from his herd. In 1997, his son Theodoros took over the dairy and stepped up production. In 2001, he relocated the business to a more modern building in Kalambaka. A genuine family business, the dairy is currently run by Theodoros, his wife and his two sons. They get their goat’s and sheep’s milk from around thirty small breeders, whose animals graze on pastureland all year (except when the ground is covered in snow). The dairy processes between 30 and 40 tonnes of milk a month, and even more between March and June. The Paidis family offers tours of the dairy and visits to the farms with which they work. During the tour, visitors can see the whole process for making Feta PDO, Kaseri PDO, Manouri PDO and Kefalotyri, and can sample and buy these cheeses. One of the sons, Nikolaos Paidis, also organises tasting sessions in the Zythorycheio bar in Kalambaka. Finally, the Paidi family can organise tastings in collaboration with other local businesses which make deli products, jam, fruits, etc . Best season Spring and early summer Gift ideas Cheese: Feta PDO, Kaseri PDO, Manouri PDO and Kefalotyri Nearby accommodation Patavalis Guesthouse (Kastraki) Tel: (+30) 24320 22504 Nearby restaurant Taverna Gardenia (Kastraki) Tel: (+30) 24320 22504 Nearby attractions and activities Kalambaka and its cathedral Village of Kastraki Suspended monasteries: St. Nicholas Anapausas, Great Meteoron, St. Stephen Hiking and climbing in the Meteora Amarantos dairy Theodoros Paidis 42200 Kalambaka (TR) Distance from Larissa: 82 km Vólos: 139 km Thessaloniki: 229 km Tel: (+30) 2432075206 [email protected] greekcheeseamarantos www.greekcheese-amarantos.gr Year-round (on reservation) (15 participants maximum) Rates (per person) Visit and tasting at the cheese dairy = free Tasting with a beer at the bar ’Zythorycheio’ = 4 € Meet young goat and sheep breeders in Livadi Set up by a group of fifteen young breeders in 2007, the Voskos cooperative is based in Livadi, a hilltop village perched at an altitude of 1,200 m facing Mount Olympus. Blessed with a pleasant climate and fertile soil, the region is home to almost 60,000 goats. The members of Voskos work together to resist the trend of urbanisation around Livadi and the economic and social crisis which is gripping the country, and to offer customers fresh dairy products based on local resources and traditions dating back to the time when the region was known as Great Wallachia. The breeders’ milk is processed in a dairy in Dolichi, below Livadi, where it is made into a wide range of typical local cheeses: Feta PDO (plain or with olive oil and herbs from Mount Olympus), Voskotiri, Myzithra, Kefalotyri and Graviera. Voskos’ manager is breeder’s son Anastasios Antwniou. Dynamic and passionate about his work, he is married to a young Canadian woman of Greek origin. The cooperative welcomes visitors to the dairy and offers tours of its farms. Its products can be purchased directly from the dairy or from the main shop in Livadi. The shop also sells other typical local products. Voskos Dairy: Xirolaki - Dolichi 40200 Elassona (LA) Shop: Livadi Olympou 40002 Elassona (LA) Distance from Larissa: 74 km Vólos: 133 km Thessaloniki: 116 km Tel: (+30) 24930 41341 [email protected] Voskos www.voskos.gr Every day (except Sunday in Autumn) Dairy: 8:00 -15:00 Shop: 9:00 - 21:00 Rates (per person) Free visits Best season Spring and summer: high lactation Autumn: birth of the animals Gift ideas Typical cheeses (Feta PDO plain or with herbs from Mount Olympus, Voskotiri, Myzithra, Graviera, Kefalotiri) and other local products (wine and spirits, olives, honey, pasta, Trahanas, etc.) Accommodat