FuzeSW Program

2014
Food+Folklore Festival · September 12–14
WELCOME TO THE TABLE!
New Mexico is blessed with an abundance of
resources — mostly of the sort not measured by the national “surveys” reported
in the press. Truly, few states are on a par in cultural diversity and offerings (notably
preserved by our own Department of Cultural Affairs). On all things food, the absolute best
experts in their field reside within our state, and are joined by several from without,
be prepared for more than the occasional “ah-hah!” moment.
This year helping stir the pot and giving lie to the “too many cooks in the kitchen” adage
is MIAC / LOA director Della Warrior, whose invaluable insight provided focus on Native
life / foodways. The museum’s curators and Carnell Chosa from the Santa Fe Indian School
helped us establish connections with many Pueblos, among them, Tesuque, Jemez, Santa
Clara, Santo Domingo, Laguna, and Cochiti. Additionally lending their important voices are
a noted Apache chef from Arizona, a Kiowa chef, and a Navajo (Diné) chef from New Mexico.
The heat in the kitchen was not too hot to deter MOIFA director Marsha Bol, big-thinker
marketing director Shelley Thompson, and our very own culinary legend Cheryl Alters Jamison,
from adding their ingredients to the stew. And while not new to FUZE.SW, Deborah Madison
contributed greatly of her time, expertise, and shared her immense and inspiring passion.
This year’s FUZE.SW established a deep and valuable partnership with Dennis Hogan from
the New Mexico Department of Agriculture and continued to strengthen DCA’s bond with the
New Mexico Department of Tourism. In keeping with the conference’s spirit, Dennis locally
sourced all the foods served this weekend.
Graphic design whiz — and sharing our passion for all things food and culture — is Monica
Meehan. She deserves special appreciation; in what deep cazuela resides her incredible
patience? I am also in near-speechless awe of my sous-chef Calliope Shank, a creative
force in her own right, a multi-tasker extraordinaire.
Everyone involved, speakers, sponsors, and especially our new mayor, Javier Gonzales,
from the outset grasped the significance of this year’s theme, “sitting at the same
table”— where New Mexico’s diverse cultures join to find the common ground sustaining us.
Acknowledgements cannot be complete without calling out Charlene Cerny and Charmay
Allred and the work of their tireless volunteer committee.
Cooked up last year to complement the New World Cuisine exhibition, FUZE.SW adds an
extra dimension to our state museums’ outreach with another view of our shared culture
through food. Thank you for attending, be inspired, and let’s hear it for FUZE.SW 2015!
Steve Cantrell FUZE.SW Curator
EVENT COMMITTEE
Charmay Allred Co-Chair
Charlene Cerny Co-Chair
Carnell Chosa
Bill Jamison
Cheryl Alters Jamison
MaryAnne Larsen
Laura Lovejoy-May
Deborah Madison
Carmella Padilla
Laurie Vander Velde
Michael Vander Velde
Robert Vladem
Laura Waller
HONORARY COMMITTEE MEMBERS
Marsha Bol, Ph.D. Director, Museum of International Folk Art
Jamie Clements President / CEO, Museum of
New Mexico Foundation
Javier Gonzales Mayor, City of Santa Fe
Veronica Gonzales Secretary, New Mexico Department
of Cultural Affairs
Della Warrior (Otoe-Missouria) Director, Museum of Indian Arts and
Culture / Laboratory of Anthropology
PROJECT STAFF - NEW MEXICO
DEPARTMENT OF CULTURAL AFFAIRS
Jamie Brytowski Education and Outreach
Steve Cantrell Public Relations Manager
Monica Meehan Graphic Designer
Calliope Shank Logistics and Oversight, FUZE.SW
Shelley Thompson Director of Marketing
and Outreach
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Museum Hill
Most FUZE.SW events will be held on Museum Hill.
Concurrent Panels will be held at various locations in the Museum of Indian
Arts and Culture (MIAC), the Museum of International Folk Art (MOIFA),
and the Laboratory of Anthropology (LOA).
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and Culture
Laboratory of
Anthropology
Museum Hill in Santa Fe is home to two state museums, the Museum
of Indian Arts and Culture and the Museum of International Folk Art,
and to two private museums, the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art and the
Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. The Santa Fe Botanical
Garden at Museum Hill — accessible from the overflow parking area — is now open. At this central destination, some of the city’s finest museums’
exhibit world-class collections of Native American art and artifacts, the
largest collection of folk art in the world, and priceless works from the
state’s Spanish Colonial period. The Museum Hill Café is situated on
Milner Plaza and serves lunch and Sunday brunch with a view.
Museum Hill parking facilities
Parking on Museum Hill is free.
Main and overflow parking lots are available on either side of Camino Lejo.
MONICA MEEHAN
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12
TIME EVENT
7:30 AM BREAKFAST AND REGISTRATION / CHECK-IN Coffee provided by Ohori’s Coffee Roasters
Food provided by Dulce Bakery & Coffee
LOCATION
MOIFA Entry
8:30 AM WELCOME REMARKS Candace Walsh, with Santa Fe Mayor Javier Gonzales,
MIAC / LOA Director Della Warrior (Otoe-Missouria)
MOIFA Atrium
9:00 AM OPENING KEYNOTE MOIFA Atrium
Native American Food Traditions and Identity
Lois Ellen Frank, Ph.D.
9:45 AM FASTALKS The
MOIFA Atrium
New Pueblo Diet
Roxanne Swentzell
It’s
Not all Rats on A Stick
Dody Fugate
Rollin’
Stone: Piki Bread
Wenona Nutima
10:30 AM FOOD BREAK MOIFA Atrium
10:45 AM ART BREAK MOIFA Atrium
Piki Bread Tasting
11:00 AM CONCURRENT PANELS Listening
to Our Ancestors:
Farming Smart in the High Desert
MIAC O’Keeffe Auditorium
Basketry,
Bones, Bladders, and Bark
(Stone and Pottery, too): Indigenous Cooking Utensils
MIAC Classroom
Native
LOA Meem Auditorium
Moderated by Lois Stanford, Ph.D., with Matt Barbour, Richard Ford, Ph.D.,
Terrol Dew Johnson, Roxanne Swentzell
Moderated by Glenna Dean, Ph.D., with Diane Bird, Patricia Crown, Ph.D.
American Food Traditions and Food Identity
Moderated by Lois Ellen Frank, Ph.D., with Freddie Bitsoie, Nephi Craig, Louie Hena
CONTINUED →
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FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12
TIME EVENT
12:00 PM LUNCH The Grandmother’s Lunch
LOCATION
MOIFA Atrium
Enjoy the same traditional Native and Hispanic foods that
these grandmothers (and mothers) serve to their own families.
1:00 PM ART BREAK MOIFA Atrium
1:15 PM KEYNOTE MOIFA Atrium
The Spirit of Food
Nephi Craig
2:00 PM CONCURRENT PANELS Content
Gone Digital:
What Happens When Recipes Are Free?
Or Is the Sky Falling for Cookbook Authors?
MIAC O’Keeffe Auditorium
Corn:
MIAC Classroom
Moderated by Tracey Ryder, with Beverly Cox, Deborah Madison, Tina Ujlaki
The Grain That Sustains Body and Soul
Moderated by Theresa Pasqual, with Diane Bird, Jennifer Fresquez,
Betty Fussell, Wenona Nutima
Not
Just Whistlin’ In the Wind: The Bean’s Rise
From Humble Legume to Southwest Culinary Classic
LOA Meem Auditorium
Moderated by Cheryl Alters Jamison, with Carmella Padilla, Lynda Prim, Walter Whitewater
CONTINUED →
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TIME EVENT
3:00 PM CHEFS’ TASTING Vegan Hominy Corn Harvest Stew
LOCATION
MOIFA Atrium
Chefs Lois Ellen Frank, Ph.D. and Walter Whitewater
4:00 PM CONCURRENT PANELS Contemporary
Native American Food
MIAC O’Keeffe Auditorium
Moderated by Lois Ellen Frank, Ph.D., with Freddie Bitsoie, Beverly Cox,
Nephi Craig, Loretta Barrett Oden
Micaceous
Pottery: How to Cook With and Care For
MIAC Classroom
Moderated by Deborah Madison, with Glenna Dean, Ph.D., Katharine Kagel, Felipe Ortega
Mi
Madre’s Cocina: The Enduring Influence
LOA Meem Auditorium
Moderated by Cheryl Alters Jamison, with Carmella Padilla, John Rivera Sedlar
5:00 PM FOOD TASTING Roasted
Dody Fugate
Cider
MOIFA Atrium
Agave Tasting
Tasting
Jordy Dralle and Michelle Vignery, Santa Fe Cider Works
DINNER 6:00 PM G
reen Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown
Separately ticketed, visit santafe.org/Fun_Food_Event for info.
FUZE.SW
Dine-Around
Pay on your own and reserve your spot at participating FUZE.SW restaurants
SEE PAGE 30 FOR MORE INFORMATION →
Santa Fe
Farmers Market Pavilion
Anasazi Restaurant
La Boca and Taberna La Boca
Restaurant Martín
Terra
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SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13
TIME EVENT
7:30 AM BREAKFAST AND REGISTRATION / CHECK-IN Coffee provided by Ohori’s Coffee Roasters
Food provided by Café Fina
LOCATION
MOIFA Entry
8:30 AM WELCOME REMARKS Max Lehman, with Cheryl Alters Jamison, MOIFA Director Marsha Bol, Ph.D.
MOIFA Atrium
9:00 AM KEYNOTE MOIFA Atrium
Our Appetite for Change — And Its Consequences
Betty Fussell
9:45 AM ART BREAK 10:00 AM FASTALKS MOIFA Atrium
MOIFA Atrium
More
than Guacamole:
The Social History of Avocados
Lois Stanford, Ph.D.
Indigenous
Biotechnology,
Or How Polenta Isn’t Just Italian
Thomas Antonio, Ph.D.
10:30 AM CONCURRENT PANELS Does
Going Local Save Traditional Foods?
MIAC O’Keeffe Auditorium
Moderated by Terrol Dew Johnson, with Emigdio Ballon, Richard Ford, Ph.D.,
Louie Hena, Deborah Madison
How
Do Chefs Define Their Culinary Identity?
MIAC Classroom
Moderated by Tina Ujlaki, with Freddie Bitsoie, Nephi Craig, Lois Ellen Frank, Ph.D.
Talkin’
Taco … Not Taco Bell
LOA Meem Auditorium
Moderated by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, with Gustavo Arellano, Mark Kiffin, David Sellers
11:30 AM LUNCH Food Trucks
MOIFA Parking Lot
The Street Food Institute works with underserved young adults — emerging culinarians — to realize their dreams.
CONTINUED →
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TIME EVENT
LOCATION
12:30 PM CONCURRENT PANELS Navajo
Churro Sheep, Corriente Cattle, and Bison:
History Informs the Modern Rangeland
MIAC O’Keeffe Auditorium
Who’s
Minding the Kitchen?
Gender and the Story of Cooking in the Southwest
MIAC Classroom
Seeds:
LOA Meem Auditorium
Moderated by Tracey Ryder, with Glenna Dean, Ph.D., Betty Fussell,
Deborah Madison, Nancy Ranney
Moderated by Carmella Padilla, with Patricia Crown, Ph.D., Lois Stanford, Ph.D.,
Lynn Walters
The Connection Through Generations
Moderated by Thomas Antonio, Ph.D., with Scott Canning, Richard Ford, Ph.D.,
Louie Hena, Lynda Prim
1:30 PM FASTALKS Don’t
Spit It Out: From Tesguino to Modern Brews
Wine:
The Art, the Food, the Tradition
MOIFA Atrium
Glenna Dean, Ph.D.
Michele Padberg, Vivác Winery and Red Hot Mama Wines
2:00 PM KEYNOTE Mexican Food’s ‘Dialogue’ with Indigenous Foods
MOIFA Atrium
Gustavo Arellano
2:30 PM ART BREAK MOIFA Atrium
2:45 PM CHEFS’ TASTING MOIFA Parking Lot
MOIFA Outdoor Classroom
Fired Up and Chilled Out
Chefs Juan José Bochenski, James Campbell Caruso, and Andrew Cooper
CONTINUED →
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SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13
TIME EVENT
LOCATION
3:45 PM CONCURRENT PANELS Tex-Mex,
Cal-Mex, Az-Mex: What’s New-Mex?
MIAC O’Keeffe Auditorium
Moderated by Bill Jamison, with Gustavo Arellano, Carmella Padilla, Patricia Sharpe
The
Good, the Bad, and the Ugly: Fried Dough
LOA Meem Auditorium
Moderated by Rob DeWalt, with Nephi Craig, Terrol Dew Johnson,
Loretta Barrett Oden, Walter Whitewater
Guided
Tour of MIAC / LOA’s
Micaceous Pottery Collection
Meet in MIAC Lobby
Dody Fugate
5:00 PM CLOSING REMARKS FUZE.SW 2104 Wrap-up
MOIFA Atrium
Cheryl Alters Jamison
5:15 PM FRITO PIE ‘N’ BREW TASTING ¡Adios, Fuze! MOIFA Atrium
Sample Frito Pies prepared by Santa Fe’s beloved Five & Dime
along with some of New Mexico’s justly famed brew.
DJ Gustavo Arellano spins his 10 favorite immigration songs.
Hosted by Earl Potter, Santa Fe Five & Dime General Store and
Chris Goblet, Beer Ambassador, New Mexico Brewers Guild
6:30 PM DINNER Buffalo Feast
Enjoy delectable dishes featuring New Mexico buffalo, local green and red chile,
and produce from the Santa Fe Farmers Market.
Chef Weldon Fulton, Museum Hill Café
San Juan Youth Buffalo Dancers
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Museum Hill Café
Milner Plaza
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14
TIME EVENT
LOCATION
Museum Hill
10:00 AM – 4:00 PM
FUZE.SW
MarketPlace
This free-to-the-public, day-long family food event is brought to you by FUZE.SW and
Delicious New Mexico. Vendors will offer tastes of and sell New Mexico-grown, produced,
and prepared foods, from jams to empanadas. Enjoy Native American dance performances,
cooking demonstrations, cookbook signings, a green chile roast, tours of the Santa Fe
Botanical Garden, food trucks, and more activities that everyone will relish.
Other partners include Cooking with Kids, The Food Depot, Georgia O’Keeffe Museum,
and Native Seeds / SEARCH
SPECIAL THANKS
A BIG NEW MEXICO-SIZED THANK YOU TO DENNIS HOGAN AND THE NEW MEXICO DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.
Chef Juan José Bochenski
Jennifer Fresquez
Paul Margetson
Jason Silverman
Stephanie Cameron
Dody Fugate
Marja Martin
Chef James Campbell Caruso
Weldon Fulton
Candace Tangorra Matelic
Simon Charitable Foundation,
Steven H. Simon and Bear Nash
Lynn Cline
Honey Harris
Maxine McBrinn
Chef Andrew Cooper
International Folk Art Foundation
Doug Patinka
RoseMary Diaz
Irrational Pie
Earl Potter
Anna Farrier
Tom Ireland
Vicki Pozzebon
Corey Fidler
Cheryl Alters Jamison
Bob Ross
Damien Flores
Max Lehman
Daniel Quat
Chef Lois Ellen Frank
Shirley Lujan
Santa Fe Art Institute
Deborah Madison
Santa Fe Indian School
John Stafford
Luci Tapahonso
Doris Valdez
Jodi Vevoda
Candace Walsh
Chef Walter Whitewater
Janey Zimmer
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SPEAKERS AND PRESENTERS
Thomas Antonio is a botanist and science coordinator at the
Institute of American Indian Arts in Santa Fe, New Mexico. He obtained
a Ph.D. from the University of Oklahoma studying tropical plants and
has a B.S. and M.S. in botany from Miami University in Ohio. Antonio
is active in the Native Plant Society of New Mexico and is the author of the book
The Sunflower Family in the Upper Midwest.
JOHN GILHOOEY
Diane Bird (Santo Domingo Pueblo) is currently
employed as an archivist at the Museum of Indian Arts and
Culture Laboratory of Anthropologyin Santa Fe. She has served
as head archivist with the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the
American Indian Cultural Resources Center Archives in Suitland, Maryland; adjunct
instructor at the Institute of American Indian Arts; and archival workshop instructor
for the Falmouth Institute. Bird is a member of the New Mexico Historical Records
Advisory Board and the New Mexico Humanities Council.
Gustavo Arellano is the editor of OC Weekly, an alternative
newspaper in Orange County, California; author of Orange County:
A Personal History and Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America;
and lecturer with the Chicana and Chicano Studies Department at
California State University, Fullerton. He writes “¡Ask a Mexican!,” an award-winning,
nationally syndicated column. Arellano is a lifelong resident of Orange County and
is the proud son of two Mexican immigrants, one of whom was illegal.
Matthew J. Barbour is the manager of Jemez Historic Site
(Giusewa Pueblo / San José de los Jémez Mission), in Jemez Springs,
New Mexico. He obtained his B.A. and M.A. in anthropology from the
University of New Mexico. Barbour is a regular contributor to the Red
Rocks Reporter and Sandoval Signpost newspapers. He has published more than 100
nonfiction articles and monographs on the archaeology and history of the American
Southwest. In 2012 and again in 2014, Barbour was awarded the City of Santa Fe
Heritage Preservation Award for Excellence in Archaeology.
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DOUGLAS MERRIAM
Emigdio Ballon, of Quechua decent, was born in Cochabamba,
Bolivia. He earned his B.S. in agriculture at the University of Saint
Simon in Cochabamba, Bolivia, and his M.S. in plant genetics in
Colombia. He studied for his doctorate at Colorado State University.
As a plant geneticist he has specialized in research on quinoa and amaranth grains and
has published many articles about his work in South and North America. Ballon is
currently the director of agriculture at the Pueblo of Tesuque, where he manages
Tesuque Farms, for which he received a Piñon Award in 2010. He is also involved with
indigenous organizations that stress the importance of seed saving and promote the
revival and continuation of traditional crops, both nutritional and medicinal.
Freddie Bitsoie (Diné), is the owner of FJBits Concepts,
a firm that specializes in Native American food ways. He has traveled
the country, making presentations for organizations and companies
such as Kraft Foods, the College of Holy Cross, Yale University,
and the Heard Museum, in Phoenix. Bitsoie has been featured in and also contributes
to Indian Country Today. He also has been featured in Native Peoples Magazine and Arizona
Highways. He hosts his own show, Rezervations Not Required; and made a guest
appearance on famous Italian chef Lidia Bastianich’s show, Lidia Celebrates America.
He won the Native Chef Competition at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the
American Indian in 2013. Bitsoie attended the University of New Mexico, majoring in
cultural anthropology with a minor in art history before attending culinary school.
Today, he is one of the most sought-after and renowned Native American chefs and
Native foods educators in the country.
In the words of Cheryl Alters Jamison, Argentina-born
Juan José Bochenski arrived at the Inn of the Anasazi
in late 2011 as Executive Chef with “global sophistication and
a great résumé,” where he has embraced contemporary Southwestern
fare, fusing Spanish and European with a mix of New Mexican.
Scott Canning has been working in botanical gardens since
1989, first at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden in sales and marketing from
1989 until 1992, when he moved to Albuquerque to take over a small
landscaping business from a friend. He also worked at Plants of the
Southwest until 1994, when he moved back to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden as a curator
of the greenhouses, specializing in Mediterranean-climate plants of the world. In 1998
Canning became the rosarian for the BBG’s Cranford Rose Garden, comprising 5,000
plants of some 1,500 varieties. In 2001 he moved to Wave Hill, a public garden and
cultural center in the Riverdale section of the Bronx, famous for its fantastic variety of
plants and gardens. He was director of horticulture there for thirteen years before moving
back to New Mexico, where he became the horticulture and special projects director for
the Santa Fe Botanical Garden in April 2014. Canning is passionate about ornamental
horticulture, vegetable gardening, New Mexico’s native plants, and restoring old houses.
James Campbell Caruso has been nominated
five times for the prestigious James Beard Award for “Best Chef
of the Southwest.” He is the chef and owner of La Boca and Taberna
La Boca restaurants in Santa Fe, acclaimed by the New York Times,
Food Network, Travel and Leisure, and Esquire. Caruso is the author of España: Exploring
the Flavors of Spain and El Farol: Tapas and Spanish Cuisine. His recently opened outpost
in Albuquerque’s historic Hotel Andaluz is MÁS, offering fresh reinventions of traditional
Spanish cuisine.
ith more than twenty years of experience around the world,
W
Andrew Cooper’s résumé pays tribute to everything from
the classic to the avant-garde. A graduate of the esteemed Culinary
Institute of America, Cooper brings more than twelve years of Four
Seasons experience to his role as executive chef at Four Seasons Resort Rancho
Encantado Santa Fe. As the executive sous-chef at Four Seasons Resort Hualalai,
in Hawaii, he recognized the importance of sustainable cooking, and as senior sous-chef
at Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village, in southern California, he mastered the
nuances of healthy cooking.
JUDY DEHAAS
Beverly Cox is the food editor of Native Peoples Magazine and
a former food editor and director of food styling for Cook’s Magazine.
She holds a Grand Diplôme from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and
apprenticed with Gaston LeNôtre. Cox has written thirteen cookbooks,
including Spirit of the Harvest: North American Indian Cooking, winner of the James Beard
and International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) cookbook awards in 1992;
and Spirit of the West: Cooking from Ranch House and Range, winner of the Julia Child
IACP award in 1996. Her books Spirit of the Earth: Native Cooking from Latin America and
Eating Cuban: 120 Authentic Recipes from the Streets of Havana to American Shores were
IACP cookbook award finalists.
Nephi Craig (White Mountain Apache) is the
executive chef at the Sunrise Park Resort Hotel with fifteen years
culinary experience in America and around the world. He worked at
The Country Club at DC Ranch and Mary Elaine’s at The Phoenician,
among many other renowned restaurants and hotels. Craig is also the founder of the
Native American Culinary Association, an organization/network that is dedicated to the
research, refinement, and development of Native American cuisine. For two years he
helped prepare a Native American–themed menu for the James Beard Foundation at the
James Beard House in New York City and has served as head chef in Sao Paulo, Brazil,
for the United States Consulate and for four international tasting dinners in London, UK;
Cologne, Germany; and Osaka, Japan. Craig is an enrolled member of
the White Mountain Apache Tribe and is half Navajo.
Patricia L. Crown, A.B., University of Pennsylvania;
and Ph.D. in anthropology, University of Arizona, is Distinguished
Professor of Anthropology at the University of New Mexico. She
identified the first prehispanic cacao (chocolate) north of the Mexican
border in ceramics from Chaco Canyon. Crown was awarded the Excellence in Ceramic
Research Award by the Society for American Archaeology and (jointly with Suzanne
K. Fish) the Gordon Willey Award by the American Anthropological Association.
Glenna Dean former New Mexico state archaeologist, holds
graduate degrees in archaeology and botany, and trained as an
archaeobotanist, someone who studies the interactions of people
with plants as preserved in archaeological sites: charred seeds,
broken plant parts, pollen grains, basketry, sandals, and other textiles made of plant
fibers. Working with soil samples from prehistoric agricultural fields, she made the first
identification of pollen grains from cotton plants in the Abiquiu area, certain evidence
that cotton was grown at high elevations 800 years ago without visible means of
irrigation. Later, Dean became associate director and then executive director of the
Northern Rio Grande National Heritage Area, Inc., where she worked to continue area
traditions and heritage through community development and sustainable tourism.
A longtime Santa Fe resident, Rob DeWalt began writing
professionally after eighteen years as a cook, chef, and restaurant
consultant. For eight years he served as a writer and food editor for
Pasatiempo, the award-winning weekly arts and culture magazine
published by the Santa Fe New Mexican. A 2013 Edible Santa Fe Local Hero Award nominee
for his food writing, DeWalt participated in the inaugural FUZE.SW festival as a panel
moderator. He is currently working as a freelance writer and editor for local and national
print and web publications, including a monthly food column for the Santa Fe Reporter.
Richard Ford had a long and distinguished teaching career at
the University of Michigan in anthropology and botany. His research
interests include ethnobotany from an ethnoecological perspective,
paleoethnobotany, subsistence patterns, plant-management
techniques, origins of domesticated plants, prehistoric agricultural systems in Mexico
and the southwestern United States, archaeology of the Archaic, and rock art. Ford
engages in applied ethnobotany through work with various Indian Pueblo nations in the
Southwest. As one of the preeminent ethnobotanists working today, he has contributed
significantly to the understanding of how Native peoples in North American managed
and utilized medicines, plants, foods, and cultural symbols.
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SPEAKERS AND PRESENTERS
SEAN C. CASEY
Jennifer Fresquez’s love and interest in food and
agriculture began with her family business, Monte Vista Organic
Farm, in Española. She is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of
America and the University of New Mexico. Fresquez has worked
as a personal chef, food marketer, works in her family business as a farmer, and — among her many volunteer pursuits — serves on the board of Cooking with Kids.
Dody Fugate is a researcher and curator at the Museum
of Indian Arts and Culture/Laboratory of Anthropology in Santa Fe.
She has an M.A. in archaeology from the University of Arizona as well
as one in museum management. Fugate is a member of the Phi Kappa
Phi Honor Society. She has been a longtime member of Native Seed SEARCH and has
done research in ethnobotany. Fugate was born into a southwestern family and has
spent her life researching and writing about the people and history of the region.
Betty Fussell is the author of eleven books, ranging from
biography to cookbooks, food history, and memoir. Over the last
fifty years, her essays on food, travel, and the arts have appeared
in scholarly journals, popular magazines, and newspapers as varied
as the New York Times, the New Yorker, the Los Angeles Times, Saveur, Vogue, Food & Wine,
Metropolitan Home, and Gastronomica. Fussell’s memoir, My Kitchen Wars, was performed
in Hollywood and New York as a one-woman show by actress Dorothy Lyman. Her most
recent book is Raising Steaks: The Life and Times of American Beef, and she is now
working on How to Cook a Coyote: A Manual of Survival in NYC.
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Louie Hena (Tesuque Pueblo) is a renowned
permaculture design consultant, Rio Grande and Rio Chama river
guide, and an educator on traditional land management systems.
He helped organize the Traditional Native American Farmer
Association, the New Mexico Acequia Association, and the Indigenous Food and Seed
Sovereignty Alliance. Hena has developed tribal environmental programs in several
communities, represented New Mexico’s tribes to the EPA, developed the Native
Cultures Feast and Float, and is the coauthor of A Tradition of Farming: Northern Rio
Grande Pueblo Lessons of Land Stewardship and Sustainable Agriculture. He is adept
at making the connection between local food and local energy, and as a member
of the tribal council for the Pueblo of Tesuque, he led initiatives that resulted in a solar
system at the Taytsugeh Oweengeh Intergenerational Center at the Pueblo of Tesuque.
DANIEL BARSOTTI
Lois Ellen Frank (Kiowa) is a Santa Fe–based chef,
author, Native foods historian, culinary anthropologist, and
photographer. Her book Foods of the Southwest Indian Nations, featuring
traditional and contemporary Native American recipes, won the James
Beard Award in the Americana category. Frank received her B.A. with honors from the
Brooks Institute of Photography in Santa Barbara, California; her M.A. in cultural
anthropology from the University of New Mexico; and her Ph.D. from the University
of New Mexico. Frank is a featured instructor at the Santa Fe School of Cooking,
an adjunct professor of ethnobotany at the Institute of American Indian Arts, and has
taught classes on diabetes at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center and the Institute of
American Indian Arts. Frank is widely published, her cookbook The Taco Table won the
Arizona Glyph Book Award in 2010 for best new cookbook and has written for Native
Foodways, New Mexico Magazine, Guest Life New Mexico, and Edible Santa Fe. In 2008
she started a Native American cuisine catering company, Red Mesa.
Cheryl Alters Jamison and
Bill Jamison are among the nation’s most lauded
writers, with four James Beard Awards, an International
Association of Culinary Professionals award,
and numerous others. Often called “America’s outdoor cooking experts,” they are among
the country’s foremost authorities on barbecue and grilling. The Jamisons also have
written extensively about southwestern foods in books, including The Border Cookbook:
Authentic Home Cooking of the American Southwest and Northern Mexico. Their Tasting New
Mexico: Recipes Celebrating 100 Years of Distinctive Home Cooking was an official project of
New Mexico’s centennial year. Cheryl is contributing culinary editor for New Mexico
Magazine and writes a monthly column and regular blog called “Tasting NM.”
Terrol Dew Johnson is a Tohono O’odham basketweaver and
health advocate. He co-founded Tohono O’odham Community Action
(TOCA) in 1996, a nonprofit community-development organization that
operates a basketry cooperative and farms and sells Native foods.
The Tohono O’odham tribe has the highest rate of adult-onset diabetes of any ethnic group
in the world. TOCA’s Tohono O’odham Community Food System provides traditional desert
foods to tribal members as a way of combating the disease and promoting health and
sustainability. Johnson is the publisher of Native Foodways magazine which covers the
community organizing, culinary innovation, and cultural significance of Native foods.
He is also a founding board member of the Native American Food Sovereignty Alliance.
Katharine Kagel is the founder, owner, and executive chef
of Café Pasqual’s. She has authored two cookbooks: Cooking with
Café Pasqual’s and Spirited Recipes from Café Pasqual’s and was
nominated by the James Beard Foundation as Best Chef: Southwest.
Kagel was the guiding founder of the Food Depot, Santa Fe’s food bank, and she is
involved with Kitchen Angels, the group that delivers free hot meals to Santa Fe’s
homebound. Café Pasqual’s received the James Beard Foundation America’s Classics
Award. Café Pasqual’s Gallery features handmade mica cookpots in the Jicarilla Apache
style from New Mexico potter Felipe Ortega and others.
KITTY LEAKEN
KITTY LEAKEN
Mark Kiffin James Beard Foundation Best Chef of the
Southwest, 2005, owns The Compound Restaurant, whose menu
features seasonal, regional ingredients that combine New World
influences with the style and flavors of the Mediterranean.
He opened Zacatecas Tacos+Tequila in 2012, a real taquería, featuring Mexican recipes
that have been handed down from generation to generation. Beginning in 1990, Kiffin
partnered with owner Mark Miller at the famed Santa Fe–based flagship Coyote Café.
During his eight-year tenure at Coyote Café, he coauthored three books with Miller:
Coyote’s Pantry, The Great Salsa Book, and The Indian Market Cookbook. Kiffin cowrote his
fourth cookbook, The Steak Lover’s Companion (HarperCollins), with Fred Simon,
president and CEO of Omaha Steak International.
Loretta Barrett Oden (Potawatomi Nation) is a nationally known chef who began her passionate relationship
with food as a small child at the side of her mother, grandmothers,
and aunts and partnered with her son, the late chef Clayton Oden,
to open the Corn Dance Café — the first restaurant to showcase food indigenous to the
Americas. She has been featured nationally on programs including Good Morning America
and The Today Show, and in the New York Times and National Geographic Traveler.
Oden served as a guest chef in the Robert Mondavi Great Chefs Series and the 2006
Taste Celebration in Napa and on Barbara Pool Fenzl’s PBS series, Savor the Southwest.
She was the host of an Emmy Award–winning five-part PBS series, Seasoned with Spirit,
a culinary celebration of America’s bounty combining Native American history
and culture with delicious, healthy recipes inspired by indigenous foods.
DOUGLAS MERRIAM
Deborah Madison, chef and author, was the founding chef
of Greens Restaurant in San Francisco, a former cook at Chez Panisse,
and pastry chef at Café Escalera in Santa Fe. She is the author of
twelve cookbooks, including Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone and most
recently Vegetable Literacy: Twelve Plant Families in our Kitchens. Madison’s books have
garnered both national and international awards, including a James Beard Award. She
has lived in the Santa Fe area for the past twenty-three years, where she writes and
gardens and offers small dinners and classes at her Galisteo home.
Michele Padberg was born and raised in Taos, New Mexico
and now resides in Dixon, New Mexico. She is one of the owners of
Vivác Winery and Creative Director for Red Hot Mama Wines.
An Executive Sommelier, Padberg teaches wine classes and is the
host of Great Grape TV and Wine Revolution Media. Her wine education and certifications
come from the International Wine Guild. With her extensive knowledge of fermentation
and taste profiles, Padberg created her own cheese company — Kissable Cheeses — and is now Vivác’s in-house fromagère.
JACK PARSONS
Wenona Nutima (Tesuque Pueblo) learned to farm
from her parents. She watched her mother cook various recipes and
observed her dad process corncobs into posole. Nutima received her
B.A. from New Mexico State University in hotel, restaurant, and tourism
management. Recently, her focus is on becoming proficient in piki making, an artisanal
blue corn bread, called buwa yaweh (“bread peeled away”) in Tewa, that is applied by
hand to a hot cooking stone. In 2011 she collaborated with New Mexico State University’s
College of Agricultural, Consumer, and Environmental Sciences. The NMSU Extension
for family and consumer sciences also sought traditional recipes for MyPlate,
the USDA’s nutritional resource guides. Nutima attended Terra Madre, a gathering
of food communities, three times as a “Slow Food” delegate with the US and
indigenous delegations.
Felipe Ortega is a traditional yet innovative micaceous clay
cookpot potter from the Ollero band of Jicarilla Apaches. Ortega,
credited for resurrecting the Jicarilla Apache mica utility ware
tradition, believes the Jicarilla Apaches first taught the coil-andscrape method of pot making to the Pueblos of New Mexico. Because of him, micaceous
clay utility ware making and use is alive and thriving today. He has taught around the
world and locally, and at his own pottery, Owl Peak Pottery. Ortega is a devoted
mica-ware cook and bread baker for many of the northern New Mexico Pueblos’ feast
days. He holds a degree in linguistics and classical languages from Duns Scotus College
and a M.A. in biblical theology ministry from Oblate College. Café Pasqual’s Gallery
exclusively represents Ortega (as well as many other potters he has taught).
S anta Fe native Carmella Padilla is an award-winning
journalist and author who has written numerous books, articles
and essays exploring intersections in art, culture and history
in New Mexico and beyond. Her books include: The Chile Chronicles:
Tales of a New Mexico Harvest; The Work of Art: Folk Artists in the 21st Century; El Rancho de
las Golondrinas: Living History in New Mexico’s La Cíenega Valley; and Low ‘n Slow: Lowriding
in New Mexico. Padilla is editor and co-author of Conexiones: Connections in Spanish
Colonial Art and a contributor to Spanish New Mexico: The Spanish Colonial Arts Society
Collection. She is a recipient of the 2009 New Mexico Governor’s Award for Excellence
in the Arts and the City of Santa Fe’s 1996 Mayor’s Award for Excellence in the Arts.
15
SPEAKERS AND PRESENTERS
LAURA PASKUS
A rchaeologist Theresa Pasqual (Acoma Pueblo) is the director of Acoma Pueblo’s Historic Preservation Office.
Acoma is known as the oldest continuously inhabited community
in North America and, because of its elevation, is often referred to
as “Sky City.” A tireless advocate, Pasqual has dedicated her career to protecting what
matters most to the people of the pueblo, including Mount Taylor, a cherished resource
that rises into the piercing blue of the desert sky right outside her office.
Tracey Ryder cofounded Edible Communities, Inc., the nation’s
largest publishing company dedicated to the local foods movement,
in 2002 with her partner, Carole Topalian. Currently publishing
eighty-five magazines across North America, each title is regionspecific and focuses on the farmers, fishermen, chefs, and food artisans from each
area. The company’s first book, Edible: A Celebration of Local Foods, was published
in 2010, and four community-based Edible Communities cookbooks were published
in 2012 and 2013. Ryder has worked as a journalist, marketer, and graphic designer
for the culinary, tourism, and agriculture industries for nearly thirty years. She is a
regular speaker at conferences and events in the culinary and publishing fields.
S hortly after arriving in Santa Fe forty-three years ago,
Earl Potter ate his first Frito pie at Woolworth’s lunch counter.
In 1997 Woolworth’s closed. Potter’s wife, Deborah, insisted that they
could save the dish and its location. They joined Woolworth’s manager,
Mike Collins, to create Five & Dime General Stores. The company now has nine stores
in seven states. Lorraine Chavez, who cooks more than 30,000 of F&D’s world-famous
Frito pies each year, would not dream of letting Potter near the stove!
T he Ranney Ranch, owned and operated by the Ranney family since
1968, is a cow-calf operation in the high mesa country of central
New Mexico. In 2003 the ranch introduced intensive rotational grazing
and water harvesting techniques and has witnessed a remarkable
regenerative response on the land even during the recent drought. Nancy Ranney
has developed the AGA (American Grassfed Association) and AWA (Animal Welfare
Approved) certified grassfed program for the Ranney Ranch. She is a board member
of the Quivira Coalition and president of the Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance.
16
BONCRATIOUS
Lynda Prim has worked in the Southwest as an anthropologist,
farmer, educator, farm advisor, and advocate in sustainable organic
agriculture for over thirty years. Her efforts in agriculture are
dedicated to promoting and advancing the values and keys to
sustainability found in traditional, organic, and small-scale farming. Prim’s work
to conserve and distribute the endangered genetic diversity of crop plants for
high-altitude, arid lands began when she was farm manager at the High Desert
Research Farm at Ghost Ranch in Abiquiu, New Mexico, from 1986 to 1993. That work
has come full circle to her current work as farm manager of the Native Seeds / SEARCH
Conservation Farm in Patagonia, Arizona.
G rowing up in Santa Fe, John Rivera Sedlar’s first taste of
Latin cooking was in the kitchens of his mother, aunts, and beloved
Grandma Eloisa, fueling his drive to become a chef. His quest for
“something more” led him to apprentice with legendary chef Jean
Bertranou at L’Ermitage in Los Angeles. Acclaimed for his inventive twist on the foods
served at his restaurants, Chef Sedlar has taken his knowledge of and passion for Latin
food history and traditions to develop the concept for Museum Tamal, the first-ever
museum to be devoted to the history and culture of food in the Latin world. In 2011
he was named “Chef of the Year” by Esquire magazine. In 2012 and in 2013, he was
nominated for “Best Chef Pacific” by the James Beard Foundation..
David Sellers, Street Food Institute program director,
began his culinary career twenty years ago while living in New
Hampshire and completing a B.A. in philosophy from Plymouth
State University. Sellers started as a baker in an all-organic bakery,
where he developed a deep appreciation for sustainable, local, from-scratch cooking.
These pillars became the basis of his cooking philosophy. He moved on to cook in
San Francisco and then Santa Fe, where he spent ten years as chef of the venerable
Santacafé. He then opened his own restaurant, Amavi, to critical acclaim, where both
the cuisine and the wine focused on the Mediterranean region. Most recently Sellers
turned his culinary exploration to New England, where he spent four years as the chef
of Maxfish, delving deeply into the world of fish and farm-to-table dining. Regional
cuisine and teaching have always been his top priority. He has traveled extensively
in Europe and the Far East researching local cuisines..
Roxanne Swentzell (Santa Clara Pueblo), sculptor and contemporary Pueblo artist, comes from a family
of renowned potters and sculptors. After building her own house,
she was inspired to create Flowering Tree Permaculture Institute,
using the house site to test and showcase sustainable living systems. Flowering Tree
teaches classes on: farming and gardening in the high desert climate with low water
use; understanding micro-climates; composting and seed saving; animal husbandry;
how to butcher, store and cook meats; sheep shearing and wool spinning and weaving;
cheese making; harvesting honey; creating ecosystems of ponds with fish and plants;
adobe and straw-bale construction; mud plastering; solar energy; and water
catchments. Swentzell loves to find new / old ways to do things. She participates in
her Cultural Pueblo Dances and community, loves being a grandmother, but privately
wishes that she had three more of herself so that she could get more done in a day.
Lynn Walters is the founder and executive director of Cooking
with Kids, Inc., an award-winning nonprofit organization that works
to improve child nutrition by engaging elementary school children
in hands-on learning with fresh, affordable foods from diverse cultural
traditions. Prior to founding Cooking with Kids, Walters was a restaurateur in Santa Fe
for seventeen years. She is currently a Ph.D. candidate in health communication
at the University of New Mexico.
Sarah Wentzel-Fisher is the editor of Edible Santa Fe,
the assistant director of membership and community outreach at
La Montañita Co-op, and the New Mexico field organizer for the
National Young Farmers Coalition. Twice a week she works at the
Alvarado Urban Farm in downtown Albuquerque with the Veteran Farmer Project.
In her free time Wentzel-Fisher visits farms and ranches (she highly recommends this
activity), experiments in her kitchen, and keeps chickens in her backyard.
LOIS ELLEN FRANK
Lois Stanford is associate professor of cultural anthropology in
the Department of Anthropology at New Mexico State University. She
earned her B.A. in anthropology at the University of Oregon and her
Ph.D. in cultural anthropology at the University of Florida. Her
research in Mexico has focused on food production and social change. She is the author
of two forthcoming books: La Cocina Abierta: A Culinary History of Mexico; and The
Avocado’s Tale: Binational Integration of the Avocado Industries of Michoacán and California.
In southern New Mexico, she conducts applied research on food security, food
sovereignty, and food justice in the colonias of Doña Ana County and serves as president
of the Board of Directors for La Semilla Food Center, a nonprofit organization that works
to build a healthy, self-reliant, fair, and sustainable food system in the Paso del Norte
region of southern New Mexico and El Paso, Texas.
Tina Ujlaki began her career at Food & Wine in 1985 as an
assistant editor, and she was named Executive Food Editor in 1999.
In her many years at the magazine, she has worked with some of the
most respected food writers and chefs, including Julia Child, Jacques
Pépin, Marcella Hazan, Paula Wolfert, Daniel Boulud and Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
Ujlaki oversees the Test Kitchen and all the other food editors, as well as the recipe
content for the magazine, books and the website. She’s a longtime member and
cookbook awards judge of the International Association of Culinary Professionals.
A graduate of the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor Ujlaki holds a Grand Diplome d’Etudes
Culinaire from La Varenne in Paris, where she worked as a stagiaire.
KATE RUSSELL
Patricia Sharpe grew up in Austin and earned her M.A. degree
in English from the University of Texas at Austin. She taught English
and Spanish and written historical markers at the Texas Historical
Commission, before joining Texas Monthly in 1974. Initially, she edited
the magazine’s cultural and restaurant listings and wrote a consumer feature called
“Touts.” Eventually she focused exclusively on food. Her humorous story, “War Fare,”
an account of living for forty-eight hours on military MRE’s (Meals Ready to Eat),
was included in the anthology Best Food Writing 2002. Many of her stories appear
in the 2008 University of Texas Press collection, Texas Monthly on Food. In 2006 her story
about being a restaurant critic, “Confessions of a Skinny Bitch,” won a James Beard
Foundation Award for magazine food writing. She coordinates all the magazine’s stories
on iconic Texas foods, including barbecue, Mexican food, tacos, steaks, and dishes
from small town cafés. Sharpe has contributed to Gourmet, Bon Appétit, Saveur, and the
New York Times. She writes a regular restaurant column, “Pat’s Pick,” for Texas Monthly.
Walter Whitewater (Diné), born in Piñon, Arizona,
teaches with Chef Lois Ellen Frank (Kiowa), at the Santa Fe School
of Cooking and is the chef de cuisine at Red Mesa Cuisine, LLC,
a Native American catering company ancestral foods with a modern
twist. Whitewater has appeared on numerous TV cooking shows, including Bobby Flay’s
Southwest Cuisine and The Secret Life of Southwestern Food. In 2009 he was the first
Native American chef awarded the James Lewis Award by the BCA in New York to honor
cultural awareness in the kitchen. Whitewater has taught widely about the recipes and
foods based on the ancestral Native American diet. In 2011 he was the first Native
American chef to cook at the James Beard House. Whitewater has just started the
reintroduction of Navajo-Churro sheep into his family’s flock.
17
RECIPES
Three Sisters Sauté
with Sage Pesto
Carmella’s Baked
Chicken Flautas
Ranney Ranch
Grassfed Brisket
LORETTA BARRETT ODEN, FROM COOKING
LIVE, “WILD WILD WEST: NATIVE AMERICAN
CUISINE”
CARMELLA PADILLA
NANCY RANNEY
These are very easy and very yummy. I always make
them with my own cooked chicken, but you can use
store-bought roasted chicken in a pinch. Much of it is
according to taste and preference — how much chile you
want to include, how creamy or not you want them to be,
how full you want them to be.
For the sauté:
1 lb zucchini squash,
cut bite-size or thinly julienned
3 T olive oil
1 cup heirloom beans, cooked
2 ears frozen sweet corn, thawed and drained
1 cup chopped ripe Roma tomatoes
salt and pepper
1/3 cup sage pesto, recipe follows
For the pesto:
1 cup pine nuts
3 lb brisket
2–3 onions, sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 bay leaves, crushed
1 tsp freshly ground coffee
2 tsp salt
1 whole chicken
1 pint sour cream
(use more if want creamier flautas)
1 small onion, chopped small
2 tomatoes, quartered
1 cup chopped fresh roasted green chile
(use more or less according to taste)
1 cup (or more!) red wine
2 dozen blue corn tortillas
1/8 tsp pepper
1/8 tsp thyme
Sear brisket on all sides in hot Dutch oven. Remove
and sauté onions and garlic. Add the brisket with the
remaining ingredients, cover, and simmer for 3 hours.
Turn brisket occasionally. After 1 1/2 hours add some
carrots, potatoes, turnips, or other root vegetables.
1 1/2 cups fresh sage leaves, firmly packed
grated Monterey jack cheese (optional)
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
garlic salt (to taste)
1/2 cup olive oil
olive oil or canola oil for frying tortillas
1/4 cup garlic, chopped
Boil chicken until cooked. Drain and cool. Discard skins
and shred chicken. (Store-bought roasted chicken,
skinned and boned, can also work if you’re in a hurry.)
Homegrown Greens
Place shredded chicken in bowl, add sour cream, onion,
chopped chile, and garlic salt. Mix well to achieve a
moist consistency.
My favorite food in the world is fresh, homegrown greens:
1 tsp salt
1 lemon, juiced
1 T fresh, mild goat cheese, optional
To make pesto, toast pine nuts in a dry sauté pan or in a
350-degree oven on a sheet pan. Combine all ingredients
in a food processor or blender and process until smooth.
Rinse and trim squashes, julienne on a mandoline using
the skins for a pasta effect or cut into bite-sized chunks,
or use whole baby squashes.
Heat oil in a large sauté pan. Add squash and sauté for
1 minute, then in succession, tossing and stirring with
each addition, add beans, corn, and tomatoes, then add
the sage pesto, stirring gently to distribute evenly.
Salt, only if needed, and serve immediately. Serves 6.
Fry tortillas very lightly in oil (do not let get crisp) so
they can be easily rolled. Place tortillas individually
between paper towels to drain excess oil and cool.
Fill each tortilla with heaping spoonful of chicken
mixture and roll to approximately 1 1/2-inch diameter.
(Use less mixture if you want less-fat flautas. Fuller
flautas may require more chicken mixture.)
Place flautas seam side down, side by side, into glass
baking dish. Spread thin layer of sour cream and light
dusting of grated cheese on top.
Bake flautas at 350 degrees until warmed through,
approximately 20 minutes. Serve individually in whole
portions for best presentation. Makes about 2 dozen.
18
SCOTT CANNING
I peel a clove of garlic, split it into two halves, and rub
a large salad bowl with the garlic, crushing the clove as
I rub to release the essential oils. Toss the garlic pieces
or reserve for another recipe. Pour into the prepared
bowl enough extra virgin olive oil for the size of the
salad, drizzle it down the sides of the bowl to catch the
fresh-squeezed garlic juice. Whisk in seasoned rice
wine vinegar to make a nice, creamy emulsion. Toss this
simple dressing with your fresh greens, and enjoy.
The dressing can be played with, adding toasted sesame
oil or ume plum vinegar for a more complicated flavor.
Wonderful additions include chopped fresh or dried
cherries or apricots; walnuts, pecans, or pine nuts can
be sprinkled over the greens. Especially indulgent is
topping the greens with coarsely grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese; or feta, blue, or goat cheese crumbles.
Chard, Ricotta, and
Saffron Cakes with Basil
DEBORAH MADISON, FROM VEGETABLE
LITERACY: TWELVE PLANT FAMILIES
IN OUR KITCHENS
These cakes can serve as a tidy little nibble for a
pass-around, made slightly larger for a first course,
or larger still for a main course. They’re light enough
that you can still serve them with a dollop of crème
fraiche or creamy yogurt cheese and a cluster of micro
greens or small basil leaves. A mixture of chard and beet
greens works well too. If you prefer spinach, you’ll need
at least two pounds.
Enough chard and beet greens to make
12 cups leaves, minus the stems
2 pinches saffron threads
2 T boiled water
1 cup white whole-wheat or spelt flour
1 tsp sea salt
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
2 large farm eggs
1 cup ricotta cheese
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 T slivered basil leaves
3/4 cup milk
3 T olive oil or ghee for frying
To Finish: Thick yogurt or crème fraiche,
basil leaves or microgreens
Wash the chard leaves and cook them in a covered pot
in a little water until they are wilted and tender. Chard
will take longer than spinach and possibly beet greens
and you want them tender, but not overcooked, about 5
minutes. Keep an eye on them and taste them frequently
once they’ve wilted. Also make sure the pot doesn’t dry
out. When they’re done, put them in a colander and set
them aside to cool and drain. Cover the saffron threads
with 2 tablespoons boiling water.
Mix the flour with the salt and baking powder in one
bowl. In another bowl, mix together the ricotta, cheese,
eggs and milk. Add the steeped saffron threads and the
water, then whisk in the flour mixture. Returning to the
greens, squeeze out as much water as possible, then
chop the greens finely and stir them into the batter.
Made-to-Order
Summer Sweet Corn Soup
with Farmers Market
Vegetable Relish
Coat a non-stick skillet with olive oil, ghee or butter.
To taste for salt, cook a spoonful of the batter on both
sides, then taste. If it needs more salt, now is the time
to add it. Then make your cakes, small or larger cakes
as you wish. (There should be about 4 cups of batter.)
Cook over moderate heat until golden on the bottom,
about 2 minutes, then turn the cakes once, resisting any
urge to pat them down, and cook until the second side
is also well-colored, two minutes more. Serve each cake
with a spoonful of yogurt cheese and a garnish of basil
or micro greens. Makes 12 3-inch cakes.
3 ears sweet corn, shucked and cut off the cob
2 scallions, white part only, thinly sliced
MARK KIFFIN
1–1 1/2qt light vegetable stock
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
to taste
1/4 cup cream, optional
Bring vegetable stock to a simmer, add corn and
scallion, season. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and
return to a simmer for 5 minutes. Add cream now if
using. The corn should be tender but still sweet and not
starchy. Place in blender and puree at high speed until
completely smooth and slightly foamy. For a thinner
consistency, strain. Adjust seasoning and serve hot.
For the vegetable relish: I like to see what looks the
best at the market: zucchini, yellow squash, peas, green
beans, or baby onions. Then pan roast with a little whole
butter and a touch of vegetable stock and finish with
freshly chopped basil or parsley. Serves 4.
19
RECIPES
Zucchini, Corn, and Green Chile Fritters
with Pimentón Cream
ROB DEWALT
For the fritters:
2 medium zucchini, coarsely shredded
kosher salt (to season)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 ears’ worth fresh corn kernels
1/2 cup roasted green chile, chopped
ROB DEWALT
1/2 cup dry masa harina
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp baking soda
3/4 cup buttermilk
1 large egg, beaten
vegetable oil, for frying
For the cream:
1 tsp pimentón, red chile powder,
green chile powder, or chipotle powder
1 1/2 cup sour cream, yogurt, or Mexican crema
Preheat a cast-iron skillet filled 1/3 with oil to 350
degrees. Toss the zucchini with 1/2 tsp salt in a bowl;
let stand 20 minutes. Wrap the zucchini in a kitchen
towel and squeeze dry. Blend dried-out zucchini with
corn, chile, garlic, buttermilk, and egg.
Mix the flour with baking soda and masa harina.
Add in batches to wet ingredients.
Scoop the batter 1/4 cup at a time into the oil and cook
until the fritters are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per
side. Be careful not to crowd the pan. Drain fritters on
paper towels and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve
warm immediately or keep warm in a 250-degree oven.
Cooled fritters can be frozen for up to a week. Reheat in
a 300-degree oven after defrosting.
For the cream: Add pimentón to sour cream and stir
well. Let sit for an hour in the fridge before serving
with hot fritters.
20
Edamame Wild Rice Salad
THOMAS ANTONIO
Matt’s Meatballs,
Beans, and Peaches
MATTHEW BARBOUR
wild rice
1 can black olives (quartered)
1 lb hamburger
1 cup shelled edamame beans
1 large can of pork and beans
1 1/2–2cups cherry/grape tomatoes
(cut in half on a bias)
2 cans of peaches
1–2 cups cashews
(whole or slightly chopped, whichever you prefer)
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 bunch kale (lacinato preferred),
destemmed and sliced in thin strips
Bragg’s amino acid
Super easy and cheap to make. Cook 1 cup wild rice in
4 cups of water to your liking. Slice olives and tomatoes
and place in a large mixing bowl. Add edamame beans.
Sauté onion and place in bowl with olives, tomatoes,
and edamame. Sauté kale. When done add about
1 teaspoon Bragg’s to kale and stir in. Add kale to
bowl. Strain cooked wild rice and add to bowl. Add the
cashews last and gently mix all ingredients together.
Last step is to arrange avocados, pinwheel-style, around
the top of the salad.
1egg
1 chopped onion
mustard
catsup
garlic
oregano
brown sugar
salt and pepper
Mix hamburger with some mustard, catsup, garlic, onion,
egg, salt, and pepper. Form into balls and brown. You
can also use store-bought, precooked meatballs for the
authentic twenty-first-century experience.
In a pot, combine meatballs along with canned peaches
and pork and beans. Set on range top and cook on low
heat. Simmer for at least 1 hour, adding brown sugar,
mustard, salt, and pepper as desired. For the best
product, put it in a crockpot and let it cook all day.
Serves 6 to 8.
Southwest Corn Chowder
FREDDIE BITSOIE
5 ears fresh corn, kernels removed,
or 1/2 lb frozen
1 small onion, small dice
3 russet potatoes, small dice
1 garlic clove, minced
parsley, chopped
2 bacon strips, diced
4 ounces heavy cream
salt and pepper
fresh thyme
bay leaf
1 red bell pepper, small dice
1 Hatch green chile, small dice
32 oz chicken or vegetable stock
Place bacon in pot and render fat.
Sweat onion, thyme, bay leaf, chili, red pepper, and green
chile in bacon for 30 minutes slowly. Do not burn.
Add corn and garlic into pot and sweat for about 10 more
minutes. Add stock and bring to boil, then add potato.
They should cook in about 10 to 15 minutes.
Grandma Catherine’s
Tepary Bean, Roasted Corn
and Wheat Berry ‘Boshol’
TERROL DEW JOHNSON
Torrejas de Quinoa
(Quinoa Griddle Cakes)
BEVERLY COX, FROM SPIRIT OF THE EARTH:
NATIVE COOKING FROM LATIN AMERICA
My grandma would make this stew for family gatherings
and feast and festivals when they would kill a cow. It
was a rare thing to have it. I really like the wheat berries
in the stew because they puff up and get chewy and I
love the texture. The meat from a freshly slaughtered
cow also adds a really rich flavor to the stew.
Torrejas are often served for breakfast or sent along
with schoolchildren to eat as a midmorning snack.
Though they are often made with leftover quinoa,
they are so good that it’s worth preparing quinoa
just to have torrejas!
2 cups cooked quinoa
My grandma, Catherine Pancho and her husband,
Alexander, were traditional farmers from the village
of Cowlic on the Tohono O’odham Nation. They grew
traditional tepary beans, 60-day corn and squash
watered only by the monsoon rains.
1 cup grated carrot
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
This stew uses not only traditional foods, but also beef
and wheat that were introduced by the Spanish in the
1700’s and were quickly adopted by the indigenous
ranchers and farmers. Both of these ingredients find
their way into this stew — the wheat in the form of
wheat berries. There are many variations of this bean
and roasted corn stew — referred to locally as posole,
posol and boshol — and everyone has their favorite. This
one is mine.
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Remove thyme and bay leaf, then take 1/3 of the soup
and place in blender (try to get as much potato as
possible, but not all).
4 quarts water
3 tsp salt
1 cup dried, roasted, whole corn kernels
Puree until smooth and the starch of the potato thickens
puree. Combine back into soup. Add cream only to
smooth out color of the soup. Makes one gallon.
1 cup brown tepary beans
1 cup white tepary beans
1/2 cup whole-wheat berries
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
2 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon salt
1/4–1/3 cup all-purpose flour
2 to 4 tablespoons canola or other mild oil
In a mixing bowl combine quinoa, carrot, onion, parsley,
eggs, salt, pepper and 1/4 cup of the flour. Toss together
to combine thoroughly. Add more flour if needed to hold
the mixture together.
Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a nonstick or well-seasoned
skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. In batches,
spoon heaping tablespoons of the quinoa mixture onto
the preheated skillet. Using a spatula, flatten each
spoonful to form a 3 1/2 to 4-inch patty. Fry the torrejas
for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until golden brown.
Brush skillet with more oil as needed. Serve hot or at
room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.
1 lb beef short ribs or oxtails
For stove top: Put water, salt, corn, beans and wheat
in a large pot. Bring to a boil, cover. Reduce heat and
simmer anywhere from 2 to 5 hours or until corn and
beans are tender. If using meat, add after the stew has
been cooking for one hour.
For crockpot: Put water, salt, corn, beans and wheat
in a large crock pot. Cover and cook on high for 6 to 8
hours. If using meat, add 1 hour before end of cooking
time. Serves 6 to 8.
21
RECIPES
Western Apache Seed Mix
NEPHI CRAIG
Authentic Chaco Canyon
Exfoliating Treatment
Dried Apple Pie
GLENNA DEAN
PATRICIA CROWN
This is a mix of seeds from the Pre-Reservation
Ancestral Apache Diet. It is a critical piece of our identity
and speaks to health and resiliency as we continue to
forge de-colonial culinary pathways toward solutions in
health and wellness in Western Apacheria.
1 cup dried white corn
1 cup sunflower seeds
1 cup pine nuts (piñons)
1 cup pumpkin seeds
kosher salt to taste
Each ingredient must be prepared separately
and combined.
Parch the corn in a heavy skillet over high heat, stirring
constantly until the corn cracks and is golden brown.
Do not burn. Toast the sunflower seeds for 10 minutes
at 350 degrees or until golden brown. Toast the pine
nuts in a 350-degree oven for 10 minutes or until
golden brown. Do not burn. Toast pumpkin seeds in a
350-degree oven for 10 minutes or until golden brown.
Remove and allow the seeds to cool. Combine all seeds
and season with salt to taste if desired. Place the cooled
mixture in a tall Mason jar and place in a high place of
honor to display.
There are many variations of this seed mix. This recipe is
basic and easy to replicate with seeds readily available in
markets. Independent study will allow the eater to discover
more combinations of this protein-packed combination of
seeds that revitalize Ancestral Taste and health.
As you snack on this seed mix, please think about PreReservation Indigenous Health and regional dominant
flavors. Although this mix can be made year round,
historically, spring, summer, and autumn were spent
gathering and cultivating these seeds to be consumed
in winter time while telling stories and playing string
games with the family at home. We share this recipe in
the hopes that we Re-Member our ancestral taste and
food relatives.
22
Best with home-grown, home-dried apples.
I’m an archaeologist, not a chef, so I thought I’d share
my professional secret for keeping that youthful glow
you so often see on archaeologists. For a truly authentic
experience, be sure to turn off any air conditioning at
least three days in advance — room temperature should
be around 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
For the pie:
1/4 tsp nutmeg
5 lb block of sandstone
1/2 pound dried apples
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 cup small twigs of your choice
2 T lemon juice
1/2 cup pollen — should include herbes de Chaco
(sage, amaranth, chenopodium) — don’t be afraid to experiment!
1 T flour
1/4 cup ants — seed harvester or fire ants
provide the most authentic experience
Optional: add minced crockery to taste.
For a tropical experience, add a pinch of chocolate and a
soupçon of finely ground macaw feathers.
Grate block of sandstone into large mixing bowl. Do not
use pregrated sand as this is too rounded to have the
proper effect. Make sure all grated sand is equivalent in
size. Alternatively, you may put sandstone in sieve under
running faucet and wait 200–300 years for erosion to do
the work for you! Be sure sand is completely dry before
proceeding to next step.
Add all other dry ingredients to mixing bowl and mix well
with your hands. Spread completely combined mixture
onto flat surface and allow to rest for at least one hour
at room temperature. Try not to let the ants escape.
Place a chair on one side of mixture and a strong fan
on the other. Face the fan so that you are looking
straight into it and turn it on to roughly the speed of
canyon winds in spring (50 mph is a good starting point
for the novice). Close your eyes and breathe deeply!
The ants may bite, but that’s an important part of the
experience — those itchy red welts will fade in a week or
so, leaving your skin clean and clear. Rinse. Repeat for
up to 10 hours.
Enjoy! Your friends will want to know how you got that
archaeologist’s glow.
Single pie crust
10-inch deep-dish pie plate
For the topping:
1 stick butter
1 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup brown sugar
Almost cover apples with water in pan, simmer until soft
(about 30 minutes). Fish out apples and transfer to large
bowl. Add remaining ingredients to the water in the pan,
bring to boil while stirring continually. Mix thickened
sauce with apples in bowl.
Cut butter into oats with pastry cutter; mix in flour and
sugar. If the mixture makes a single mass, add more
oats until the mixture breaks up into pieces.
Roll out the single pie crust and fit to the deep-dish pie
plate; bring up edges and flute to help keep topping in
place. Spoon apples and sauce onto the crust and cover
with crumbled topping. Bake 40 minutes at 425 degrees
(6,000 feet elevation) or until pie begins to bubble.
Chocolate and Piñon Torte
LOIS ELLEN FRANK
The Feast Day is one of the biggest celebrations of the
year among the Indian pueblos of New Mexico. To honor
their patron saints, the people of each pueblo gather
together. They attend mass in the morning and hold a
procession into the plaza, where an altar houses their
patron saint. After Mass, dressed in ceremonial clothing,
ancient traditional dances begin and are offered at
various times throughout the day. Members of the
pueblos, relatives, visitors, and tourists often view these
dances. Each pueblo has different rules, and I suggest
that you check with the specific pueblo you are visiting
for guidelines on dress and ethics.
After Mass, many of the women return home to set up
for the day’s feast, which they have been preparing for,
in most cases, for days and set the special dishes up on
their tables with chairs crowded around them. On each
table is a variety of salads, stews, meats, homemade
breads, and of course desserts, both traditional and
modern dishes.
This recipe is my adaptation of some of the tortes I
sampled at different pueblos, and I serve it a lot in my
catering company, Red Mesa Cuisine. I like to serve
it with two sauces: a peach sauce from locally grown
farmer’s market peaches from the Velarde Family’s farm,
and a hand-harvested prickly pear fruit syrup. You can
decorate the entire torte and set it out with the sauces
for a buffet, or you can slice it and plate it individually
for your guests. Either way, it’s a wonderful dessert.
1 cup raw piñon nuts
(walnuts or pecans may be substituted)
2 T blue cornmeal
2 T unsalted butter
9 oz semisweet chocolate
6 egg yolks
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/4 cup confectioner’s sugar and
2 T blue cornmeal for decoration, optional
Grease and flour a 9-inch round cake pan. Preheat the
oven to 350 degrees.
In a food processor, grind the piñon nuts to a very moist
nut butter. Add the blue cornmeal and blend again for
about 30 seconds, just long enough to combine.
In a double boiler over medium-high heat, melt the
butter and chocolate together, stirring occasionally so
that they melt and blend together evenly. Add to the
piñon mixture in the food processor and blend about 1
minute until smooth.
Beat the egg yolks, sugar, and vanilla together in
a bowl, and add to the other ingredients in the food
processor. Blend again until smooth. Always add the
egg mixture last. Otherwise the eggs will curdle from
the heated chocolate.
Pour the batter into the prepared greased pan and pat
down with your fingers until evenly spread in the baking
pan. This is a thick batter, and you will be able to handle
it. Bake approximately 10 to 12 minutes, depending
on your oven (convection works well for this torte) or
until the cake springs back when the center is touched.
Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool
before decorating. This is a dense torte, and to me it
resembles dense, very moist brownies. I like it very
moist, which is why I only cook it for 10 to 12 minutes; if
you desire a crisper torte you can cook it slightly longer.
When the torte has cooled, after 20 to 30 minutes,
remove it from the pan, and then be creative for the
decorating process. You can do individual stencils
on each slice or decorate the entire torte. To make
the southwestern motif pictured, cut a stencil out of
cardboard. First dust the cake with confectioner’s sugar
using a medium sieve, lightly tapping the sides and
moving it in a circular motion around the surface
of the torte. Then, carefully holding the stencil as
close to the torte’s surface as possible without touching
it, sprinkle the blue cornmeal through a sieve over the
exposed areas. Carefully remove the stencil without
disrupting the design. For a finishing touch, place a
few piñon nuts at the corner of each stenciled triangle.
Serves 12 for dessert.
LOIS ELLEN FRANK
During the afternoon, as the dances are going on in
the plaza, relatives and visitors drop in and enjoy what
foods each household has to offer, express their thanks,
and leave to go back to the dances. People drop in
throughout the day to taste the fine foods at many
different houses. It is a festive day filled with warmth
and friendliness.
23
RECIPES
Carne Adovada
BILL AND CHERYL ALTERS JAMISON,
FROM THE 50TH ANNIVERSARY RANCHO
DE CHIMAYÓ COOKBOOK
We love the Jaramillo family’s version of this fiery
northern New Mexican specialty.
8 oz (about 25) whole dried
New Mexican red chile pods
4 cups water
1 T canola or vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 T diced yellow onion
1 T crushed chile pequin
(dried hot New Mexican red chile flakes)
1 tsp garlic salt
1/2 tsp crumbled dried Mexico oregano
3 lb thick boneless shoulder pork chops,
trimmed of fat and cut into 1- to 2-inch cubes
(if you plan to use the meat in burritos,
cut it into the smaller size pieces.)
Shredded romaine or iceberg lettuce and — in season — diced tomato
Warm the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.
Add the garlic and sauté until just golden. Immediately
remove from the heat.
Break the stems off the chile pods and discard the
seeds. It isn’t necessary to get rid of every seed, but
most should be removed. Place the chiles in a sink or
large bowl, rinse them carefully, and drain.
Place the damp pods in one layer on a baking sheet and
toast in the oven for about 5 minutes, watching carefully
to avoid burning them. The chiles can have a little
remaining moisture. Remove them from the oven and let
cool. Break each chile into 2 or 3 pieces.
24
Purée in a blender half of the pods with 2 cups of the
water. You will still be able to see tiny pieces of chile
pulp, but they should be bound in a smooth thick liquid.
Pour into the saucepan with the garlic. Repeat with the
remaining pods and water.
Calabacitas Rancheras
Stir the remaining sauce ingredients into the chile sauce
and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Simmer for
30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The sauce will thicken,
but should remain a little soupy. Remove from the heat.
Cool to room temperature. Stir the pork into the chile
sauce and refrigerate overnight.
garlic, diced
The next day, preheat the oven to 300° F. Oil a large,
covered baking dish.
Spoon carne adovada into the baking dish. Cover the
dish and bake until the meat is completely tender and
sauce has cooked down, about 3 hours. Stir once about
half-way through. If the sauce remains watery after 3
hours, stir well again and cook uncovered for about 15
minutes more.
Serve hot, garnished with lettuce and tomato if you
wish. Serves 6 to 8.
DODY FUGATE
5 small summer squash, sliced or cubed
1 medium onion, diced
3 ears of fresh sweet corn
2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped coarsely
1–2 cups cooked red or pinto beans
2 roasted, peeled, and chopped green chiles
or one-half of a small can of Hatch green chiles.
Remove seeds.
1 cup grated sharp cheese
Cut the kernels off of the corn and sauté a few seconds
in whatever grease you like. Butter is best. Add and
sauté the onion until soft. Add squash and continue until
it is also softening. Add chiles and lower the flame, cook
slowly a few minutes. Add the beans and stir lightly to
warm. Add the tomatoes and cook until soft and warm
but not mushy. Add cheese and mix lightly until melting
but not stringy.
Spicy Hot Jerky Bites
BETTY FUSSELL
Of course men have preserved meat by drying or
smoking for as long as men have fashioned stone and
bone into weapons for stripping flesh from animals in
order to eat them. Using salt to additionally flavor and
preserve was easily accomplished by men on the run,
whether in the Old World or the New. Even our English
word “jerky” resonates with the ancient Quechuan word
charqui after Spanish conquistadors discovered and ate
the jerked llama meat natively prepared in the Andes
of Peru. Jamaican “jerk” suggests a melding of Old
and New since today their jerk is made with a mix of
European spices like cinnamon and nutmeg added to
native super-hot chiles, then smoked over a barbacoa
of green branches of wood from the Jamaican pimento
tree, which resembles allspice.
But most of us city folk, wherever we are, buy our
jerky — beef, venison, buffalo, bear, alligator — nicely
bagged for us in stores. As convenience-store jerky has
become ever more available, however, quality varies.
It’s sold as snack food, but it’s a lot more costly than a
candy bar. Now that hard times have come, we might
take another look at how easy it is to make jerky at
home, even though it is a truly slow food, requiring
nature’s time if we live in a high sun belt, or a low oven’s
time if we don’t.
Few of us will be able to follow Edward Abbey’s advice
to marinate thin strips of beef in chili and beer and pin
them to a line in the hot sun for 24 hours before you
pack them in your bag and march into the wilderness
to eat. Gone are the days of chuckwagon jerky in the
mid-nineteenth century, when the cook cut a killed steer
into 1-by-3-inch strips to hang on ropes stretched from
posts, with a smudge fire beneath to keep off the flies.
And gone are the Spanish fiestas at California missions,
where beef strips were dipped in hot brine flamed with
red peppers, then hung over rawhide lines to make what
they called carne seca.
But just how dry (how seca) do you want that meat?
There are infinite degrees of dry — brittle, chewy,
leathery—not to mention hot, sweet, salty, sour, and
smoky, depending on what you use for a marinade and
how long you choose to dry. What you want is heat low
enough to evaporate moisture but not high enough to
cook the meat, plus good air flow around each piece. An
Arizona desert at noontime is about right, but lacking
that, or a dehydrator, simply set the heat as low as you
can in your oven; you can even prop the oven door open
if needed with a wooden spoon. Which also helps air
circulation. A temperature around 130 to 140 degrees is
good. You’ll get the best air circulation by spacing strips
1/2 inch apart directly on the oven racks, with a piece of
foil on the bottom for drips. How long? If you cut those
slices as thin as you can (1/8–1/4 inch) by freezing the
meat before slicing, and if you marinate those slices 8 to
12 hours in the refrigerator, they should dry well in your
oven for about 5 hours. Every oven is different. If you
want the strips still a bit bendable rather than brittle
crisp, check after 4 1/2 hours. I happen to like them
crisper, so I leave them in longer. Try it out and see what
you like. You’ll want to cool the meat thoroughly before
putting it in freezer bags and keeping it either in the
freezer or refrigerator, where it should keep a number
of weeks.
Use a really lean cut of meat, like flank steak, or some
part of the round — top, eye, or bottom. I used an
inexpensive 2 1/2-pound eye of the round roast. My two
oven racks would have accommodated a 3-pounder cut
in slices, but no more. Cut off any external fat and freeze
the meat before slicing in order to cut it as thin as
possible across the grain. Then cut the slices in 1-inch
wide strips.
2 1/2 lb lean beef, cut in strips
For the marinade:*
3 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 small onion, chopped (1/3 cup)
2 T sea salt
2 tsp black pepper, ground
1 T cumin, ground
1/4 teaspoon hot chile pepper
(like cayenne or chiltepin), ground
1 T chipotle chile pepper, ground
1 T ancho chile pepper, ground
2 tsp smoked paprika
1 cup stout or other dark beer (Brooklyn Brewery’s
Black Chocolate Stout was perfect)
Put all the marinade ingredients in a blender and
process until relatively smooth.
Put the sliced meat in a bowl and pour on the marinade.
Mix well with your hands so that each slice is glazed
with the marinade. Cover the bowl tightly (plastic wrap
is good) and refrigerate for about 8 hours or overnight.
Turn on the oven to its lowest heat (130 degrees is
good). Place slices 1/2 inch or so apart on both oven
racks. Place foil on the bottom of the oven to catch any
drips. Prop oven open with handle of wooden spoon. Let
slices dry in the warm oven about 5 hours. Remove and
let slices cool thoroughly before storing them in baggies
and refrigerating.
*This is a very hot and spicy marinade, good for people
who love their buffalo chicken wings hot and spicy.
That’s the way I like them — as a thirst provocative for
beer. If you want to turn down the flavorful heat, just
use less pepper of all kinds, but particularly the hot
kind like cayenne. Think of this as snack food instead
of trail food, and visions of a frosty cold one will soon
dance in your head.
25
RECIPES
Fried Green Tomatoes
TRACEY RYDER
This is a great recipe in the early fall, especially in Santa
Fe, where our growing season can be shortened by an
early frost. Having a delicious use for all of the unripe
tomatoes left on the vine makes the coming of winter
all that much easier to take!
2–3 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup buttermilk
2 large eggs
1 cup self-rising flour
1 cup yellow cornmeal or polenta
2 T turbinado sugar
1 T sea salt (or bacon salt,
or any other smoked salt you have on hand)
1 T freshly ground black pepper
1 T hot smoked paprika
First, set up a dredging station of three pans:
Pan 1: The all-purpose flour;
Pan 2: The buttermilk with two large eggs whisked in;
Pan 3: The remaining ingredients: self-rising flour,
yellow cornmeal or polenta, turbinado sugar, sea salt
(or other salt), freshly ground black pepper, and hot
smoked paprika.
Then slice the green tomatoes about 1/2 inch thick. This
thickness allows for a crispy crust and tender interior.
Heat peanut, grapeseed, or other high-heat oil to 350
degrees in a frying pan, about 1 1/2 inches deep.
Dredge the tomato slices in the flour, then the
buttermilk mixture, making sure that the entire slice
is covered in liquid. Finally, dredge the slices in the
seasoned flour, making sure that all surfaces are
covered. Place in the frying pan, taking care not to
crowd. Fry till crispy and golden brown on each side
and remove to a rack to drain. Repeat.
I love using them on BLTs, but they are great
eaten cold as well.
26
Street Food Institute
Pork Tacos
DAVID SELLERS
Parmesan Asparagus
PATRICIA SHARPE
1 bunch or more fresh asparagus,
as needed, fibrous ends cut off
24 oz pork shoulder,
roasted and shredded from the bone
good olive oil
Parmesan cheese (the real stuff, not in a box)
or Pecorino Romano, grated
6 oz red cabbage sliced thin
12 oz chile arbol salsa (recipe follows)
6 oz queso fresco or Cotija cheese, grated
2 limes sliced into wedges
12 cilantro sprigs for garnish
12 fresh, 6-inch corn tortillas
For the salsa:
10 tomatillos, husked and rinsed
8 dried arbol chiles
5 cloves garlic
juice of 3 limes
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
kosher or sea salt
coarse-ground black pepper
This is a quick, easy recipe for a potluck.
Everybody loves it.
Grill, steam, or quickly boil asparagus until barely al
dente. Remove from heat and immediately plunge
into a cold- or ice-water bath to stop cooking. Pat dry.
Put on a large platter and drizzle with oil and sprinkle
with other ingredients to taste (don’t be stingy with
the salt and cheese). Toss (I use my hands; distributes
the seasonings more evenly). Serve.
2scallions
salt and pepper to taste
Tzirita de Cilantro o
Yerbabuena (Spearmint)
LOIS STANFORD
2 T canola oil
3 T granulated sugar
Toss the tomatillos and scallions in the canola oil and
season with salt and pepper. Grill on a hot grill until well
blackened. The tomatillos will just be starting to break
down and look like they are going to pop. Transfer to a
bowl and reserve. Toast the arbol chiles and the garlic in
a dry sauté pan until starting to blacken but not burned;
they should be very fragrant. Transfer the arbol chiles
to a bowl of warm water and let stand for 10 minutes.
Remove the chiles from the water and puree in a food
processor with the garlic until it forms a paste. Combine
the other ingredients and season to taste. If it is too
thick, thin it out with a little bit of the water the chiles
were rehydrating in. It should be pretty spicy.
Warm the tortillas on a flat top grill or dry sauté pan.
Sauté the pork until crispy. Garnish the tacos with the
pork, arbol salsa, cheese, and shredded cabbage.
Top with a cilantro sprig and a slice of lime. Serves 6.
Makes a fresh salsa. A recipe from the Purépecha
(Tarascan) communities of Michoacán, Mexico.
2 lb dry chile seeds
(guajillo, ancho, and / or mulato)
1 large onion
2 bunches fresh cilantro or spearmint
2 1/2 oz tomatillos
1 lb chilacayote (Malabar gourd) seeds
(may substitute pumpkin seeds)
coarse kosher salt
Toast the chile and chilacayote seeds on a hot comal
or griddle. Grind the onion, tomatillo, toasted seeds,
and fresh cilantro or spearmint with salt (to taste).
Traditionally ground on a metate, or use a blender
for ease.
Serve with fresh, hot tortillas and fresh white cheese.
Chicken with Spinach Sauce
LYNN WALTERS
I learned to make it from my dear friend and teacher
whose method for teaching cooking is to lay out
ingredients in proper proportion, then to work together
to prepare and share the food.
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken,
washed and cut into 1-inch pieces
5 cloves garlic, minced
2 tsp lemon juice
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp curry powder
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon salt
Kale Salad
SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER
My two favorite ways to prepare kale are in a smoothie
with a banana and yogurt, or in a salad, raw. This kale
salad recipe also works deliciously with chard or another
sweet, leafy brassica of your choosing.
1 large bunch kale (10 to 12 big leaves),
stemmed and roughly chopped
2–3 cups boiling water
1 apple, cored and diced
1 carrot, grated
1/2 cup sunflower seeds
(sesame seeds will do in a pinch), lightly roasted
1/4 cup dried currants
juice of one lemon
1/4 caup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon sugar
pinch of salt and pepper
Rinse the kale and remove the leaves from the stalks
by running a sharp knife up the stalk where it meets the
leaf. Lay the leaves one on top of the other, then roll
them up together — this will make them easier to chop.
Slice the roll into 1/4-inch or smaller slices. Put the kale
into a pot and pour the hot water over it, then put a lid
on the pot and let the leaves wilt for about a minute.
This procedure will soften the kale and remove some of
the bitterness, while keeping a fresh texture and taste.
Cube the apple into 1/2-inch pieces. Grate the carrot.
Toast the sesame seeds in about 1 T of olive oil in a
frying pan over low heat. Drain the water from the kale.
In a salad bowl combine the veggies, fruit, and seeds.
In a Mason jar combine lemon, sugar, olive oil, salt, and
pepper. Put a lid on it and shake vigorously to emulsify.
Pour the dressing over the salad and toss. Add a little
additional grated carrot or sunflower seeds to the top
to garnish.
1 T sesame oil
1 tsp black mustard seed
1 T peeled and minced fresh ginger
2–3 jalapeños, seeded and minced
1 chile piquin, optional
2 bunches spinach, washed well and chopped
1 1/2 tsp salt, or to taste
1/4 cup heavy cream, optional
Put the chicken in a stainless steel bowl. Add the garlic,
lemon juice, spices, and salt. Mix to coat the chicken.
Cover and refrigerate at least 60 minutes, or overnight.
Pour the oil into a large, heavy-bottomed pan and put over
medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the black
mustard seeds and sauté just until they pop and turn gray.
Add the ginger, jalapeños, and chile piquin, if using, with
1/2 tsp salt. Sauté until fragrant and lightly browned. Add
the spinach, cover, and cook until it has wilted. Remove
from heat and blend with the remaining 1 tsp salt and a
little water until smooth.
Using the same pan, sauté the marinated chicken until
lightly browned and tender. Pour the sauce over the
chicken. Stir in the cream, if using. Taste for salt and
spice. Serve over basmati rice. Serves 4.
27
RECIPES
Locally Raised Organic
Lamb-Stuffed Green Chiles
with Garden Fresh
Tomato Purée
WALTER WHITEWATER, © LOIS ELLEN FRANK
This recipe, an adaptation of stuffed green bell peppers,
combines many southwestern regional ingredients. It
is a favorite of my cooking classes here in Santa Fe, as
well as many guests for whom I have prepared this dish.
What makes this dish so delicious is the locally raised
lamb I buy at the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market from Antonio
and Molly Manzanares of Shepherd’s Lamb. I also use
fresh tomatoes in the puree, which I grow myself or buy
at my local farmer’s market when they are in season.
You can use a variety of fresh tomatoes. I’ve made this
tomato puree with fresh Roma tomatoes, red plum
tomatoes, little yellow pear tomatoes, and green and
red zebra tomatoes, all of which taste wonderful. See
what is available in your own area. For a spicier flavor,
cook the stuffed chiles a bit longer in the oven, since
the longer they cook, the more spiciness from the chiles
goes into the lamb stuffing.
For the chiles:
12 firm New Mexico green chiles (mild),
or if you want no heat, use an Italian
red sweet pepper
1 T cooking oil
2/3 cup finely chopped sweet white onions
1 cup adobe bread crumbs (see note)
2 ripe tomatoes, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
1/2 tsp dried thyme or 1 tsp fresh
2 bay leaves
2 T chopped fresh tarragon
28
1 T olive oil
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 small sweet white onion, chopped
1 1/4 lb local organic tomatoes, coarsely chopped
To make the stuffed chiles, fire roast, peel, and seed the
chiles, keeping them whole for stuffing. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat and
sauté the onions about 4 minutes, until translucent.
Add the ground lamb and brown for approximately 10
to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning
and mashing it into small pieces with a slotted spoon
or potato masher. Drain off any excess fat and add the
tomatoes, garlic, salt, pepper, and herbs. Stir. Add the
breadcrumbs. Stir again. Decrease the heat and simmer
another 5 minutes. If the mixture is too dry, you may
need to add homemade stock or water so that it is moist
and able to be nicely stuffed inside each chile. Remove
from the heat and let cool.
Slice the chiles lengthwise, spread them open on a work
surface, and generously stuff each chile with the lamb
mixture. Place the stuffed chiles on an oiled baking pan
with the open side down and set aside. The chiles will be
reheated right before they are served.
To make the tomato puree, heat the oil in a saucepan
over medium-low heat. Add the onions and sauté until
clear, approximately 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and
LOIS ELLEN FRANK
1 1/2 lb ground lamb
For the purée:
sauté for another 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and cook
another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent
burning, until the excess liquid evaporates. The sauce
will reduce and thicken. At this point you can place the
sauce into the blender and blend until smooth. Then
run the sauce through a fine sieve to remove any of the
skins that are not blended, or you can serve the sauce
as it is (some of the students in my cooking classes
preferred this sauce in its more rustic state). Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the stuffed
chiles in the baking dish in the oven and heat until hot,
about 10 to 15 minutes. Serve immediately with the
tomato puree. Garnish with sour cream, if desired.
Serves 6 as an entrée or 12 as an appetizer.
Note: Adobe bread is yeasted oven bread made in New
Mexico at many of the Indian pueblos. If you cannot get
adobe bread, you can use any nonsourdough yeasted
bread to make these breadcrumbs. To make the crumbs,
use day-old bread that is hard or fresh bread that has
been toasted in the oven. Place into a food processor
and process until the breadcrumbs are finely ground
without being completely ground into a powder. I like to
make the chunks of bread small (approximately 1/4 inch)
because the peppers are not large and I don’t want bread
crumbs too large for the chiles. My rule is, the smaller
the object to be stuffed, the smaller the breadcrumbs.
Use as instructed in the recipe.
Green Chile and Pork Stew
KATHARINE KAGEL, FROM COOKING WITH
CAFÉ PASQUAL’S: RECIPES FROM SANTA FE’S
RENOWNED CORNER CAFÉ
This is the classic thick stew of northern New Mexico,
but of course there are as many recipes as there are
Norteños (northerners). This recipe is from my dear friend
Greg Powell. a native son of Santa Fe, whose palate is
unsurpassed. Lamb, chicken, or game may be used for
the meat—whatever is on hand is fine to use. There is
a lot of chopping and dicing, as well as a long cooking
process, so be prepared for about a 4-hour commitment
that will give you a delicious and nourishing reward for
your effort, not to mention the sweet cooking aromas
that will fill your kitchen. The quantity given is large,
because the cooking time is long and it only seems flair
to create extra. It freezes well and may be kept for up to
2 months. Use the best quality pork butt you can find.
1/4 cup olive oil
2 yellow onions, diced
4 carrots, peeled and diced
4 stalks celery, diced
4 cloves garlic, pressed
1 tsp dried oregano
1 T ground cumin
2 lb pork butt
5 quarts chicken stock (you can get low-sodium,
organic stock in quart cartons from the grocery)
1 cup fresh corn kernels,
cut from 1 to 2 ears of corn
3 lb russet potatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks
(no need to peel)
16 fresh New Mexican or Anaheim chiles,
fire-roasted, stemmed, peeled, seeded,
and cut into 1/2-inch squares (2 cups),
or 1 ounce dried green chiles,
rehydrated and chopped
3/4 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
12 corn or whole-wheat tortillas, warmed
KITTY LEAKEN
In a lidded, 8-quart, heavy pot, over medium heat, add
the olive oil and let it heat For a moment. To the pot add
the onion, carrots, celery. garlic, and oregano. Sauté the
vegetables, uncovered, until the onions are translucent.
Put the cumin into a dry pan over low heat and toast it
for 1 minute, stirring frequently until it is fragrant, and
then add it to the stew pot. Cut the pork in half and add
it to the pot, followed by 3 quarts of the stock. Cover
the pot, bring to a boil, uncover, skim oFf any foam,
and then turn down the heat to medium-low. Simmer
gently, uncovered, over medium-low heat until the meat
is tender, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. (You may need to add
1 quart of the remaining stock at this point if too much
has evaporated.)
Transfer the pork to a bowl, leaving the stock in the pot.
Skim any oil from the top of the stock and discard. When
the meat is cool enough to handle, shred the meat, then
coarsely chop it with a cleaver so the shreds are no more
than 2 inches long. Return the meat to the stockpot and
add the corn, potatoes, chiles, and the remaining 1 quart
of stock. Cook until the potatoes are Fork-tender, about
30 minutes. Add the salt and pepper. Always serve this
stew with warmed tortillas. Serves 12.
29
DINNER DINE-AROUND
Show your FUZE.SW badge on Friday night at our FUZE.SW Dine-Around partner
restaurants to enjoy special menu offerings. Reservations are recommended!
t er
ov
al
Café
waPasqual’s
nd
s
llo
rri
Ce
ti
by
or
as
shel
de
an
Restaurant
Martín
Municipal parking (fee required) apit
ol
va r
ga
s
d on g
teo
h at t
g a l is
ad
Ro
man
s. c
a s pa r
fiel d
o
er
ot
Chef Juan José Bochenski is offering a
Free Special Appetizer with your
purchase of a two-course, à la carte meal:
reet
Four Empanadas of Your Choice
· B uffalo with Ground Buffalo, Onions, Peppers
· C aprese with Mozzarella, Tomatoes, Basil
· H umita Corn and Green Chile with Corn,
Asadero Cheese, Green Chile
· T inga with Chicken, Chipotle Peppers,
Tomatoes, Caramelized Onions
il
Alameda St
a
ce
fe t r a
rg
pa l a
a n ta
e z um
va
Inn of the Anasazi
c any
o ld s
mon t
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sa
t
tree
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dalu
Gua
s
es
pr
ex
er
de
ec
m
Anasazi Restaurant spotlights New
Mexico cuisine, infused with fresh seasonal
and regional ingredients.
rc y
ce
gar
azt
t er
b au
ma
pl a
nn
hin
nus
sco
r al
ru
La Boca and
Taberna La Boca
hed
il
to Terra
10 miles
c at
ra
e
oln
l in c
id a n
sher
on
de
ia
re ad
to I-25
pl ac
a
plaza
a gua fr
santa fe
depot
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t
ch ap el le
nci
mc kenzie
fo
ur
i
wa
fr a
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fer
jef
jo hn s
san
fed e
in
so
n
iff
sta ab
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wa s
gr
cat ron
n
eo d
gto
Pas
on
state capitol
Paseo de Peralta
to Museum Hill
Visitor information Anasazi Restaurant
Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi
113 Washington Avenue · 505-988-3030
RosewoodHotels.com/en/
Inn-of-the-Anasazi-Santa-Fe
One-way street
Downtown parking facilities
Parking rates and hours are posted at each municipal lot. Prices may vary for weekdays,
weekends, and special events. Rates are generally $0.90 per half hour.
Ol
Old
Peco
s Tr
ail
Cer
rrill
ca
os R
m
in
o
oad
co
rr
al
es
to Downtown Plaza
· Water Street Parking Lot Entrance on Water Street.
· Sandoval Municipal Parking Garage Entrance on San Francisco Street.
cord o
va
a r men
ta
· Saint Francis Cathedral Parking Lot Entrance on Cathedral Place.
es
· Santa Fe Community Convention Center Parking
on
in
p
no
mi
Underground parking garage entrance on Federal Place, across from the Post Office.
ca
On-street metered parking is $0.50 per half hour, Monday – Saturday from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM.
to I-25
30
ca min o le
d
Sa
nt
a
Fe
santa fe
botanical
garden
jo
Camin
o Lejo
wheelright
museum of the
american indian
Museum of
International
Folk Art
Tr
ai
l
museum
of spanish
colonial art
museum
hill café
Museum
of Indian Arts
and Culture
Laboratory of
Anthropology
La Boca serves award-winning tapas, wine
and sherry. Taberna La Boca is a space
to enjoy, tapas, draft beer, wine, and sherry in a
more casual Spanish-style tavern environment.
Chef James Campbell Caruso will be serving
a Chef’s Tapas Surprise with your
selection from the many menu offerings at
both restaurants.
La Boca
72 W Marcy Street · 505-982-3433
LaBocaSF.com
Taberna La Boca
125 Lincoln Avenue · 505-988-7102
LaBocaSF.com
Restaurant Martín serves progressive
American cuisine, featuring Southwestern and
Asian influences and French technique.
Chef Martín Rios is offering a
Free Seasonal Soup with
your purchase of a two-course meal.
Restaurant Martín
526 Galisteo Street · 505-820-0919
RestaurantMartin.com
Terra diners enjoy thoughtful cuisine that
offers inventive interpretations of classic
Southwestern dishes and regional influences,
made with organic, locally sourced ingredients.
Chef Andrew Cooper is offering a
Free Starter of Your Choice
with your purchase of a two-course meal.
Terra
Four Seasons Resort
Rancho Encantado Santa Fe
198 State Road 592 · 505-946-5700
FourSeasons.com/SantaFe/dining/
restaurants/Terra
LARRY MUY YUM
Hotel Santa Fe
The Hacienda
& isSpa is
Hotel Santa Fe
A hotel can be as distinct as the land it calls home.
TRUE
Hotel Santa Fe The Hacienda & Spa,
owned by the Picuris tribe, is the only
venture of its kind in the United
States. The tribe originally settled
in the area nearly 800 years ago,
and today the hotel is a testament to
their enduring spirit. Filled with Native
American art and accents, the hotel
offers a unique cultural experience
that equals the many treasures that
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32
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EVENT PARTNERS
HotelSantaFe.com
NMDA.NMSU.edu
IndianArtsAndCulture.org
NewMexico.org
InternationalFolkArt.org
DeliciousNM.com
EdibleSantaFe.com
CookingWithKids.org
CCASantaFe.org
RosewoodHotels.com
NewMexicoCulture.org
MuseumHillCafe.net
ElPalacio.org
CafeFinaSantaFe.com
NewMexicoTradition.com
OKeeffeMuseum.org
DulceBakery.com
LaBocaSF.com
MuseumFoundation.org
DruryPlazaSantaFe.com
NativeSeeds.org
OhorisCoffee.com
RestaurantMartin.com
SimonCF.org/site/SFI
SantaFeBotanicalGarden.org
VaraWines.com
VivacWinery.com
FourSeasons.com
35