Amalfi Coast - Our Trip to Italy

Amalfi Coast – Walks and Hikes
Source: Walkopedia – The World’s Best Walks http://www.walkopedia.net/walks/display-walk.asp?WalkID=568
The Amalfi Coast
Afternoon Sun from Ravello
View from Ravello
Along the Amalfi Coast
Along the Amalfi Coast
Key information: The Amalfi Coast
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Stunning stretch of rugged World Heritage coastline, south of Naples, which commands
constantly breathtaking views of both Mediterranean and mountains.
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Wonderful selection of well-made foot and mule paths connects ancient settlements in an
area not accessible by road until the 19th Century. The 'crown jewel' is probably the
Sentiero degli Dei.
This is an area of antiquity, culture, architecture, religious art, inventive farming and
ferocious natural beauty. It is also a tourist hot-spot with prices that are often as
breathtaking as the landscape. Be prepared to hear your credit card squeal.
Walk summary
The Amalfi Coast has long been inhabited, but only became accessible by road when the
famous Nastro Azzuro was begun in 1815. Until then, even the wealthy city of Amalfi was only
reachable by sea, and the towns, farms and villages strung along this shockingly beautiful
coastline's limestone cliffs were joined by a series of interminable rock-hewn staircases
leading to mule tracks across the upper reaches of the mountains. Fortunately, the efficient
local SITA bus service has rendered the necessity to top and tail most walks with a trek up
and down these, and the tracks form a wonderful network of high, rural, day and half-day
walks collectively known as the Sentieri Degli Dei (also the official name of an individual,
celebrated path) whose views over farms, vineyards, rock-hugging towns and cities and the
vast, ever-changing Mediterranean are hard to beat.
As rewarding as the natural features of this outstanding landscape is one's simple
astonishment at human ingenuity and perseverance, not only in carving out these paths, often
from bare cliff-faces, but in creating the farmhouses, hermitages and terraces that cling like
eagles' nests to the dizzy heights.
A plethora of writers, poets, artists and musicians have visited and been inspired by this
rugged, beautiful coastline: among them the poet Longfellow who, though more commonly
associated with America, was a huge Italophile with a special feel for this area, writing
fulsomely about the local landscape in his idyll, Amalfi.
Best walks include:
 The famous Sentiero degli Dei.
 Around Ravello and a circuit into the hill around it.
 The Pastena/Lone circuit near Amalfi, with fine views over the surrounding area.
 A Sorrento Peninsula circuit.
Excellent local bus services now make it possible to experience the high paths without the
knee-strain of huge flights of stone stairs connecting them to the sea.
NOTE: while well-maintained, some paths are both narrow and little more than ledges carved
into cliffs. Anyone of a nervous disposition would be well-advised to go as far as they feel
comfortable with, and no further.
Sentiero degli Dei
Sentiero Degli Dios
On the Sentiero
Walk of the Gods
Key information: Sentierodegli Dei
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High but (once you are there) relatively gentle path that hugs the cliffy wilderness of the
World Heritage Site Amalfi coast and commands astonishing views of both Mediterranean
and mountains.
Eerie, silent mule track scattered with isolated farms and ruined crows-nest buildings is as
impressive for its evidence of human ingenuity as it is for its natural beauty.
Though the walking itself is moderate (with a total rise of 460ft), the path can be narrow and
hang dizzily over perpendicular drops: not for those prone to vertigo.
Walk summary
The Amalfi Coast has long been inhabited, but only became accessible by road when the
famous Nastro Azzuro was begun in 1815. Until then, even the wealthy city of Amalfi was only
reachable by sea, and the towns, farms and villages strung along this shockingly beautiful
coastline of limestone cliffs were only joined by a series of interminable rock-hewn staircases
leading to mule tracks across the upper reaches of the mountains. The Sentiero degli Dei was
one of these, and its name (which translates as Path of the Gods) is really not hyperbolic. In
an area that would certainly have heard, and quickly received news of, the destructive power
of Vesuvius, and in an area isolated from the hardest reach of Rome, it would be easy to
believe that the upper reaches of the local mountain ranges, and their breathtaking views,
would be the province of a bunch of not-necessarily-benign deities.
The Sentiero degli Dei is the most celebrated footpath of an area riddled with footpaths, and
justly so: its huge, plunging views of the Mediterranean, and the settlements huddled along its
almost-vertical shoreline as far as the island of Capri are almost beyond compare. Now that
buses run to the villages at either end and the knee-straining flog up and down the staircases
to reach it is no longer necessary, this can be a reasonably easy trek (with a 460ft rise along
its four-hour length), and rewarding pretty much every step of the way.
As rewarding as the natural features of this outstanding landscape is one's simple
astonishment at human ingenuity and perseverance, not only in carving this path, often from
bare cliff-faces, but in creating the farmhouses, hermitages and terraces that cling like eagles'
nests to the dizzy heights.
NOTE: while well-maintained, sections of this path are both narrow and little more than ledges
carved into cliffs. Anyone of a nervous disposition would be well-advised to go as far as they
feel comfortable with, and no further.
Around Ravello
Ravello -
Ravello - Afternoon sun
Ravello -
Atrani Belvedere
Ravello -
Key information: Around Ravello
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Ravello: utterly charming ancient town on a crag high above Italy’s glorious Amalfi coast,
packed with churches, former monasteries and fine old houses, many now dilapidated but
some converted into hugely atmospheric hotels.
Wander through the old town, then follow old stone tracks down the hill and around the
contours, through terraced olive groves under the cliffs that protected the old town.
It is very hot in high summer, and very crowded at popular times. Plan your visit carefully.
Walk summary
Delightful, quirky old Ravello on its hilltop, high above the wonderful Amalfi coast, with its
ancient buildings and alleyways often leading to a closed door with a runaway garden
escaping over the adjacent wall, boasts a charming Romanesque cathedral and numerous
churches, former monasteries, palaces and houses.
There is no fixed route for this walk: exploration and discovery are essential to its magic.
Begin at the Belevadere of the Villa Cimbrone Hotel, on a rocky ledge on the edge of the old
towns with its astounding views along the Amalfi coast. Wander back along old lanes and
streets to the middle of town, then wind through the dilapidated outskirts, on old flagged paths,
down the steep northwestern slopes. Contour around the southern hillside, through terraced
olive groves, passing subsiding cottages, all under the cliffs that protected the old
town. Rejoin bigger thoroughfares (steep, but wider paths) on the southeastern side, and
clamber back to the old town. Find a bar with a grand view for the cooling drink and leisurely
contemplation that you will richly deserve.
Pastena-Lone Circuit
Pastena-Lone Circuit
Lone
View of Amalfi from Lone
Key information: Pastena-Lone Circuit
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Lovely three-hour circuit through the lower levels of the hills west of Amalfi, a stunning
stretch of rugged World Heritage coastline south of Naples, which commands constantly
breathtaking views of both Mediterranean and mountains.
This is a moderate-level path, with a height gain of 820ft, whose views of the Med through a
terraced sea of citrus groves, vineyards and wild flowers, has changed little since
Longfellow penned his 1875 poem, Amalfi.
An area of antiquity, culture, architecture, religious art, inventive farming and ferocious
natural beauty. It is also a tourist hot-spot with prices that are often as breathtaking as the
landscape. Be prepared to hear your credit card squeal.
Walk summary
Amalfi is, itself, an extraordinary city, having succeeded in thriving (it appears in Boccaccio's
1471 work, Decameron) despite, for most of its history, only being accessible to the outside
world by sea. Cradled in a river-valley valley above its natural harbour, its rulers have been
surprisingly influential on Italian history for people so cut off from its centres of power. Though
it has been possible to access the outside world via the famous Nastro Azzuro road for 150odd years, the coast the city dominates still has a wonderful sense of isolated
otherworldliness.
A plethora of writers, poets, artists and musicians have visited and been inspired by this
rugged, beautiful coastline: among them the poet Longfellow who, though more commonly
associated with America, was a huge Italophile with a special feel for this area, writing
fulsomely about the local landscape in his idyll, Amalfi.
Starting at the far side of the road tunnel on Amalfi's western edge, this is a lovely pastoral
walk which leads, firstly, upwards (the highest point is 820ft from the start) via rock-hewn
steps and good paths, past series of fine chapels and into the foothills of the Lattari
mountains, and returns gently downhill (with a detour for those who want a glimpse of
something more rugged) along a higher level of the same coast back to the starting point. A
lush paradise of citrus and olive, vines and wildflowers whose terraces, climbing up above the
blue Mediterranean, are a moving history lesson in their own right.
Sorrento Peninsula
Key information: Sorrento Peninsula
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Churches, long sea views to Capri and ancient remains in a popular Roman imperial
holiday spot.
Long-established footpaths lead through delightful villages and the elegant old town of
Massa Lubrense, with a choice of length and the option to drop down to the sea for a
leisurely lunch.
Sorrento and its peninsula, though not officially part of the Amalfi coast, suffer from the
same congestion in their tourist hotspots. This footpath furnishes a lovely opportunity to get
away from the crowds.
Walk summary
Less rugged than the Amalfi Coast to which it leads, the Sorrento peninsula, which lolls out to
form the southern edge of the Tyrrenhian Sea and the Bay of Naples, is also rather more builtup. Nonetheless, this a tongue of land still has its share of wide-open spaces and stunning
views, particularly when you reach its eastern coast with its outlook towards the island of
Capri, off whose magnificent cliffs the Emperor Tiberius used to chuck inconvenient
houseguests from his various villas. This and the Bay of Naples in general, are the scene of a
good deal of Italy's more modern international history, fought over by Brits and Spaniards and
Turks in the age of colonisation; Capri was briefly British territory until they were besieged and
driven out by the King of Naples in 1808. Sorrento is a fine medieval city more recently
suburbanised and turned into a Mediterranean leisure resort; but it absolutely validates a
decent visit and is an excellent jumping-off point for the vast range of must-see walks and
sites that crowd this area.
Like the Amalfi coast, much of the peninsula was criss-crossed until relatively recent times
with paths and mules-tracks that formed its main means of communication, and, despite the
area's increased population, a good number of these paths remain intact. Well-maintained
paths lead from village to village, with new, dreamy vistas of the azure Mediterranean opening
up at every turn.
We have two particular suggestions (described in more detail under Routes below): a semiurban circuit (2h 30m) through and around the elegant old town of Massa Lubrense and its
coast, and a two-hour extension which winds out and back through gorgeous, unmechanised
farmland to the village of Termini. Both are easy, and both afford a series of spectacular views
out over the Mediterranean to the island of Capri.
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Our Favorite Hikes & Walks on the Amalfi
Coast
Source: http://www.amalfihome.com/walks/index.html
The whole Amalfi coast is hiker’s paradise. The entire peninsula of Sorrento is criss-crossed with
ancient walking paths leading over the rocky landscape from one hamlet to the next. With hiking
you experience breathtaking views down to the always present sea as far as Capri, interestinglyshaped rocks, mountains and traces of hundreds of years of cultivation and a climate which is
favorable for hiking the whole year. You walk on paths already in use for many centuries, often
carefully built with stone steps and well maintained. In the time before cars these were the
lifelines - beside the transport by boat - between the villages especially up in the mountains. They
were the base for communications and the transportation of goods, which was mainly the role of
women. Today they serve for pleasure only. I mean of course only the paths.
Many other excellent hikes are described the guidebook available in English from Julian Tippet. If
you are a passionate hiker you may want to buy the booklet before you leave for the Amalfi coast.
See there also the recommendations regarding equipment.
If you want to see good pictures from different hikes with maps.... see the excellent web site from
Giovanni Visetti. He is a walking tour adviser and also organizes hiking tours. Groups of young
people that are nature lovers organize ecological walks for interested tourists to rediscover the
origins of the earth and the sea. Tel. 081 8089613 or 339 6942911. For a local hiking guide ask
the tourist agency in Praiano.
La Madonnina - Marina di Praia – Praiano
Marina di Praia seen from the sea
View to the east
View down
This is a nice walk to see and discover the beautiful valley and port of Praiano Marina di Praiano.
You pass the tower and get a first impression about the nice town of Praiano. It takes about 1,30
hours but you can shorten it by returning after you have reached the tower. The photo on the left
shows Marina di Praia seen from the sea.
At the exit of the villa you turn left and walk along the Amalfitana. Looking back you have a
breathtaking view to the coast. You pass the tunnel and then decent down to Marina di Praia, the
port of Praiano. From there the fishermen go fishing with their traditional rowing boats, which you
can watch from the villa every morning. Here you also find a couple of restaurants - they are the
closest to the villa. Now continue the walk taking the path on the right side of the bay. You can
walk around the cliff below the tower, but the path has here a dead end in front of the Africana a
discotheque built into a natural cave - open only in summer. To continue go back to the
restaurant La Pirata. There you use the path which leads up to the tower, which is today used as
a studio by the artist Paolo Sandulli. It’s worthwhile to visit him. See the culture section. From the
bottom of the tower you have a nice view on the coast to the east and west.
Now you can return home the same way and finish your short exploration. To go there and return
will take about one hour. To continue the tour to the center of Praiano, I recommend to take with
you the plan of Praiano, which you find in the villa. It’s easier to follow the plan than to follow my
description. The walk gets a bid harder now as it heads up the hill to the center of Praiano (about
180 m, 550 ft above sea level. Most of the time you use now century old stone stairs which
connect the different levels of the village. You reach the center at the church of San Genaro.
From there you have a nice view down to the coast. Now I recommend not to return the same
way you came but go to the east there is a path which leads you down to the Amalfitana.
La Madonnina - Marina di Furore - Punta Tavolo
Marina di Furore
Marina di Furore
Before sunset
This walk leads you to the Fiordo di Furore and then up into the wild romantic ravine to Punta
Tavolo and back. In minutes you are far away from the busy Amalfitana and in the middle of
unspoilt nature. You pass an old lime kiln. From the Punta you have a nice view down to the sea.
It takes about 1,30 hours from the villa to Punta Tavolo. The highest point is 215 m (about 650 ft)
above sea level.
Description: At exit of the villa you turn right and walk along the Amalfitana. Nice views down to
the sea and to some villas below the street. Then you reach Fiordo di Furore. The people claim
that it’s the only fjord south of Norway. Anyway, it looks great and you see the charming former
fisher homes. Read more about the industrial and movie history in the excursion
section. Now pass the bridge and take the path which starts immediately at the end of the bridge
and leads you first a few meters down and then up into the wild romantic valley with rich
vegetation.
Rare plants are found there which were left over from the time glaciers covered nearly whole of
Europe. You pass an old lime kiln mill which is renovated. The path gets less comfortable as
some steps are quite steep. But don't give up. The landscape is amazing. Steep rocks, green
vegetation. The path turns then right and reaches after some zig zag the edge of the valley. From
there you have a nice view down to the sea. To return you use the same path.
La Madonnina - Praiano- Convento di San Domenico - La
Madonnina
View form Monastero San Domenico
Inside San Domenico
You walk through the old alleys of Prainano and then continue the nice walk to the monastery
which was built around 1599 a/c. You can visit an interesting old church (if it’s open). From the
monastery you have the most wonderful view (see the photo on the right) possible down to the
coast as far as Capri (see the photo) and on the way back you have a similar excellent view east
to Conca di Marini. It takes about 1,5 hours to go there. (30 min when taking the car as far as
possible). The highest point is 364 m (about 1039 ft) above sea level.
Description: To go there you can save energy by taking the car to Praiano, there at a fountain
on the right side a road leads up the mountain. Soon you see the indication San Domenico, follow
it till you reach the end of the street and hopefully find a place for parking your car. Even if you
don't like to walk its worthwhile to go there and enjoy the view down to the sea. From there you
can see the monastery up in the mountain and you need 30 minutes to reach it.
When you prefer to walk turn left at the gate of the villa, follow the Amalfitana, go through the
tunnel, then before passing the bridge, there is a path which leads up the valley. At a crossing
you take path in the direction to Praiano. When you reach the village center with the church
continue to go in western direction then you reach a street, follow it. At the next crossing you see
an indication to San Domenico, follow it till the end of the road, where you can already see the
monastery and the path leading there. The path is well maintained.
La Madonnina - Fiordo di Furore - Sant Elia - Marina di Praia - La
Madonnina
Fiordo
View to Praiano
Farmhouse
Cactus
Amalfi coast toward west
The path on the other side of the
valley
Explore the area above the villa with a nice walk with beautiful views down to the sea and up to
the mountains. This takes about 2-3 hours. The highest point is about 250 m (about 750 feet)
above sea level. Combine it with a lunch in either Marina di Praia or Marina di Furore.
What we do most of the time is to start at about 11 am from the villa. Then we reach Marina di
Praia at lunchtime and take there, our well-deserved lunch.
I recommend the path only for experienced hikers. I don't think it’s dangerous but the path is
narrow and at one or two passages you may need the support of your hands. If you want to avoid
this you may return after having reached Sant Elia.
Description: At the gate you turn right and walk along the street till you reach Fiordo di Furore.
You take the path which starts at the western side of the bridge and which leads you up to the
church of Sant Elia. If you feel you deserve already a drink you can do it in the 5 star Furore Inn
Hotel with swimming pool, SPA...
Continue your walk level towards the West. You see the indication Sentiero del Agave in Fiori
(path of the Agave in flowers). The 2 hours to Marina di Praia indicated there are largely
exaggerated. Soon you will see a plate with a nice poem. I liked it very much therefore I want to
give you an idea what it says by translating the beginning of the poem. (Sorry for my lousy
English but I hope you get the sense what the poem wants to tell us.
"Here where time seems to have become to a standstill. To give the mortals the gift of being
immortal, here where rumors are felt like imperfection of silence ........"
From there the path follows the terraces which were used to be cultivated. You walk towards the
valley, cross it and on the other side of the valley you pass a lonely farm house without access to
the street. Below the farm house you take the path down to Marina di Praia. It’s well indicated
with a sign. If you would continue the path you would reach Praiano.
La Madonnina - Praiano - Colle la Serra - Nocelle (in the upper
part it is the famous "Sentiero degli Dei")
View down to the sea
The valley and mountains
Flowers
Marina di Praia
Look back to the lonely
farmhouse
This hike is definitely the most spectacular hike of the whole peninsula of Sorrent and one of the
most beautiful in the world. From Colle la Serrva to Nocelle it follows the famous "Sentiero degli
Dei" - the walk of Gods. Not exaggerated, it’s really spectacular. Wonderful views down to the
always present sea including the isle of Capri on the horizon. From Praiano you also have a view
in the other direction to the eastern part of the peninsula. You pass fantastic rock formations, see
old traces of farming.
You walk on your own or join a guided tour - in this case ask the travel office for information.
Description: The "normal" way to walk the Sentiero degli Dei is starting from Agerola/Bomerano
then you go to Colle la Serra, then to Nocelle or further to Montepertuso and Positano. To go to
Bomerano you take a bus (buy tickets before in a bar). You go to the bus stop in Marina di Praia.
You turn left when you leave the exit of the villa, walk about 400 m (1200 ft) directly after the
tunnel is the bus stop. Take the bus in the direction of Amalfi/Salerno. Tell the bus driver that you
want to go to Agerola as you have to change the bus before Amalfi. At the end of the walk in
Nocelle or Montepertuso or Positano you take a bus back to Praiano. This includes quite some
driving with the bus. An alternative is to take a taxi to Bomerano and return from the end point by
bus or again taxi.
Therefore we prefer either to walk from the villa to Nocelle or further to Positano and then take
the bus back to Praiano or start from Positano/Nocelle or walk down to the villa. For the first
alternative you better have a reasonable good physical condition as you have to climb about 580
m (1700 ft) altitude. Partially the path is quite steep. In the other direction -assuming you start in
Nocelle - the path is till Colle la Serra mostly flat and then you have to walk down to sea level.
When you want to walk down you go to the bus stop in Marina di Praia. Check the bus
connections by reading the bus timetable or calling the Praiano tourist office (see info section).
There are frequent connections between Positano and Praiano but only few from Positano to
Montepertuso and less to Nocelle. Tell the bus driver that you want to go to Montepertuso. He will
tell you when you exit the bus (in Positano) and take the next one to Montepertuso or
Nocelle. Then you follow sign posts or the description in Tippets guide till you reach Colle la
Serra. There you leave the Sentiero degli Dei trail and follow the path down to Praiano. As an
alternative you can also choose to descend to the monastery San Domenico, which you see
below. The path starts before you reach Colle la Serra, is not marked and sometimes a bid rough.
If you are not an experienced hiker I would not recommend it. But it’s a nice alternative. In any
case you have spectacular views and arrive at the road in Praiano. There you walk towards the
east and down to reach finally the villa. It takes about 3 hours from Nocelle to the villa and a bid
more the other direction. Good hikers can of course walk to Nocelle and go back to the villa, or
start in Positano, its always beautiful.
If you start from the villa, turn left at the exit, then walk through the tunnel and then just before the
bridge take the path which starts there and leads you to Praiano. In the village walk higher till you
reach the highest street. Better take the plan of Praiano with you which you find in the villa. The
path starts with a stair which goes through a building then through olive gardens up the hill. See
description in Tippets guide: Praiano to Colle la Serra. For the start/finish in Positano there are
different alternatives, see the Tippet guide.
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Hikes by Giovanni Visetti
Source: http://www.giovis.com/
1. Path of the Gods-- from Bomerano or Praiano > Colle Serra > Nocella
There is some confusion about the definition Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods):
some people use this name for the route Santa Maria del Castello, Forestale, Capo Muro,
Bomerano; others, having scruples, add “Alto” (high) and then call the itinerary Bomerano >
Nocella: Sentiero degli Dei “Basso” (low).
Personally I follow the tradition, saying that the real one goes from Bomerano to Nocella, and
I'm also convinced that this is the one most deserving of its name the Path of the Gods; in
particular the part between Grotta Biscotto and Nocella, that is extremely interesting and scenic
from beginning to end.
I suggest walking this trail westward in order to have better views of the Amalfi Coast, all the
way to its extremity, with the island of Capri in the background.
You can reach the pass of Colle Serra (580m) either from Praiano or from Bomerano (630m).
From Praiano you can also choose to meet the Sentiero degli Dei about 500m downhill from
Colle Serra, via the Convent of San Domenico.
If you walk up from Praiano, it's worth walking a couple of hundred metres towards Bomerano,
beyond Colle Serra, as far as the pinnacolo.
Leaving Colle Serra you can choose between two routes of the same length (1,5km):
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higher option: from the saddle go up past a limekiln and then an abandoned
building a little higher than 600m; afterwards go down till you meet the lower trail
at an altitude of 545m;
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lower option: from the saddle go down to the junction with the mule track coming
from Praiano (there is a fountain on the left), turn right and walk level and then
downhill till you reach a fork (520m). The path on the left goes down to Praiano
via Convento di San Domenico, the one on the right goes to Nocella.
From the point where the two trails meet each other the vegetation totally changes and you
leave the grassy terraces (once cultivated) where you can often see goats and sheep grazing
and enter an area rich with oaks, chestnuts, strawberry trees and bushes of heather, rosemary
and rock roses.
Following a winding route, with several ups and downs, you cross the imposing Vallone
Grarelle and reach the tiny village of Nocella (440m). From here you can walk down to the
Amalfi Drive at Arienzo (over 1500 steps) or continue to Montepertuso walking first along a
concrete path and then an asphalt road.
Elevation and Distance along Path of the Gods Hike
Maps of Hiking Trail - Path of the Gods
Source: http://www.wandermap.net/en/route/1414066-sentiero-degli-dei/
Route: From Bomerano 5.47 km
Photos along Path of the Gods Trail
2. Valle delle Ferriere -
lower trail: from Pontone to Amalfi
Only a few SITA buses going from Amalfi to Ravello and Scala go to Pontone (266m, hamlet of
Scala). You'll therefore probably reach this village on foot from Ravello or Scala (both are easy
to follow and well-kept itineraries).
Leave the square taking the mule track above the fountain, walking by the trattoria Antico Borgo.
Follow the main path (on the map itinerary B) passing a couple of steep stairways on your right
(the first leads to Minuta and the second to the higher trail) and about 100m ahead, just past an
archway, you'll come to the steps going down to Amalfi. During Christmas time locals set up an
original nativity scene alongside the paths meeting at this junction.
Continuing towards the inner part of the valley go down a few more steps before starting the
gentle ascent to the saddle (309m), the highest point of this excursion. You will walk through
lemon groves on narrow terraces and under grape-vines growing on bowers over the path.
From there go steeply down the recently limestone paved path; past the rivulet you'll walk mainly
on the level until you reach a small stone cabin belonging to the aqueduct. Go past it and just a
few meters uphill take the steps down to the left; a couple of hundred meters further on you'll
come to the Ferriera (iron mill). Passing under the archway of the ancient aqueduct you'll get to
the banks of the Canneto brook.
The descending trail in front of the archway follows the left bank and will lead you to Amalfi
passing several more ruined buildings.
Before that you can also take a detour (a short loop) going up by the side of the river bed until
you approach a small bridge. A little further upstream is the fenced off area of the Riserva
Integrale (preserved area). Don't cross the brook but turn right walking back along the millrace
that used to convey the water to the mill and is now filled up with earth. By the archway (from
where water used to fall with sufficient force to move the forge) leave the duct and walk back
down some dilapidated steps.
The descent to Amalfi is very interesting for its ruined buildings (some paper mills, a limekiln, an
old power plant), for its views and (nearer to the town, where the path is paved) the
characteristic lemon groves. The imposing buildings you can see across the lower part of the
valley were also paper mills.
In Amalfi there is an active mill still producing hand-made paper and an extremely interesting
Paper Museum; don't forget to visit the Cathedral and the Cloister of Paradise.
Maps of Hiking Trail along Valle delle Ferriere
Route Pontone to Amalfi: 5-6 Km 340 M
Photos along Valle delle Ferriere
3. Valley of the Mills-
higher trail: from Pogerola to Scala (Campidoglio, Minuta or
Pontone)
You can reach Pogerola (307m, hamlet of Amalfi) using your car, by bus (SITA line
Amalfi>Pogerola) or on foot from Amalfi along an easy and well-kept path, although entirely in
ascent and with a lot of steps (on the map it is marked C as it is the final part of the itinerary
S.Lazzaro > Amalfi).
Before you leave Pogerola you might consider going to the outlook where the castle once was.
At the beginning of our ascent (in the map path A) towards the inner part of the valley you pass
by the Trattoria Rispoli and then keep going uphill for a couple of km.
Along the path you'll pass by some old and ruined country houses (466m) built on the very
edge of the cliff offering fantastic views. After a walk of about 200m through a chestnut wood
you'll come to the C.A.I. trail (red/white signs). Keep going straight along the hillside whilst the
path going up on the left leads to the Acquolella spring and Monte Molegnano before
continuing to Monte Murillo (on the map path C).
The trail sometimes becomes narrow with some short ascents and descents; you'll pass by a
couple of pretty high waterfalls, often dry in the summer and finally you reach the ford across
the Rio Canneto (454m).
Once past the brook (generally you will be able to jump over without getting wet) the path
becomes wider and, a short initial ascent, it remains at an altitude of around 500m almost to
the end of the excursion. Due to it being west-facing this side of the valley has a lot fewer trees
and consequently more extensive and spectacular views.
Keep following the red/white signs for a while but leave them when they start going steeply up
towards Castello. Your itinerary continues along the wide path alongside the Ceraso aqueduct.
Shortly before reaching the big yellow tank you'll come to a fork (505m); down to the right leads
to Pontone. From there you can choose whether to go straight to Amalfi, down lots of steps in
just a quarter of an hour, or take a longer route through the Valle dei Mulini (lower trail).
Straight ahead the path to Scala continues going gently up around Punta d'Aglio; walk through
a short tunnel bored in the limestone and then through a pine wood (drinking water fountain)
and finally you'll be in sight of the hamlets that form the commune of Scala.
Just after the pine wood, on both sides of the trail you'll see well-kept gardens and orchards
and the first houses.
The long steep flight of steps going down on your right will lead you to the hairpin bend of
Minuta (420m); straight ahead the path goes to Campidoglio (485m).
Maps of Valley of the Mills (Upper Trail)
Photos of Valley of the Mills (Upper Trail)
4. Torre dello Ziro -
Scala > Pontone > Torre dello Ziro > Atrani
You can reach Pontone (266m - hamlet of Scala), using your car, by bus (SITA line
Amalfi>Ravello) or on foot from Ravello along an easy and well-kept path.
After a short visit to this tiny village, leave the square passing through the archway of the
ancient clock and bell-tower, turn right and a few meters further on cross the road to get to the
paved path on the other side.
Keep on walking down the steps which pass partly under the buildings with the old aqueduct
running alongside. At the end of the descent you'll come to a fork: down to the left the path
leads to Atrani, straight on goes to Torre dello Ziro.
Go up a few steps and after about 20 metres take the left fork to the long flight of steps that
zig-zags up to the entrance gate of the walled area of the "Castello" and Torre dello Ziro.
As soon as you come inside the walls, just a few steps further up, you'll get to the first lookout:
up on the other side of the valley you can see Villa Cimbrone while at your feet the brook
Dragone flows towards Atrani.
Now you start going down passing a horrendous concrete structure and you'll soon reach the
clearing in the saddle between the hill with the Castle and the one where the gate is.
There are several paths inside this walled area and the following is the itinerary I consider the
best: from the clearing take the steps down to the left along an easy path through the pine
trees. After a few minutes you'll reach a fork, keep walking downhill. You'll come back here
later and you'll take the other path (uphill) to reach the terrace with the column. All the way
down to Torre dello Ziro there are no more forks.
After a due pause around the Tower and the crenelated rampart on the left, walk back up to the
fork and there turn left. A straight stretch will take you to a saddle; keep going in the direction of
the sea and after 100m along a level path you'll reach the terrace with the column.
Another pause and then go back to the saddle, pass the path on your right (the one you have
just walked up) and walk straight to the next fork. Going straight down you can shortcut to the
first saddle by the horrible construction; up to the left you can reach the top of the hill where
you can still see some ruins and the old cisterns. Follow the main path between the cisterns
(left) and the ruins (right) and walking down the mule-track (very high stone steps) around the
hill you'll get to the clearing in the saddle.
To get out you have to follow the same route and if you are not going back to Pontone at the
above mentioned fork turn to the right and walk down to Atrani. The path is just one and after
you have crossed the brook keep going downhill along well maintained paths on the left side of
the valley.
In a few minutes you'll get to the fascinating maze of narrow streets that is the centre of Atrani.
Maps of Torre dello Ziro
Photos of Torre dello Ziro
5. Convento di San Nicola- from Ravello to Minori via Sambuco and San
Nicola
From the square of Ravello (359m) start going towards Monte Brusale (o Brusara) and then
walk past the cemetery to reach the main road leading to the Valico di Chiunzi.
Cross the road and keep going along another asphalt road (dead end, so no traffic) that will
lead you to the hamlet of Sambuco with the Valley of Minori always on your right.
At the end of this road (372m) you'll find the unpaved path that in about one hour will take you
to the Convento di San Nicola. The itinerary is mainly level and there are only a few short
ascents, which are never steep.
A few metres ahead you'll cross the rivulet and start walking towards the sea. From the
moment you reach the watershed between the valleys of Maiori and Minori (saddle of
Mandrino, 441m - where the ruins of a building are) the views become more extensive and
more interesting.
Keep going towards San Nicola passing the left side of a hill and after 300m you'll come to a
fork. Take the left one to go to the Convent (300m away); later you'll take right one to descend
to Minori or Maiori.
After a due pause to enjoy the views (climb the knoll - 483m - by the side of the building for a
wider panorama), go back to the fork and turn left. The path is mostly composed of long flights
of steps in good condition descending along the ridge or hillside overlooking Minori.
In less than one hour you'll reach (127m) the path linking Maiori and Minori and, turning right,
in about 10 minutes down a few hundreds steps you'll get to the pleasant sea-side village of
Minori.
At the end of this walk of about 9 km don't forget to visit the Roman maritime villa (free
entrance) and the Cathedral of Santa Trofimena. You also have the chance of swimming from
the sandy beach.
Maps of Convento di San Nicola
Photos of Convento di San Nicola
6. Positano, Montepertuso e S. Maria del Castello
Capo d'Acqua, Tese, Valle Pozzo, Forestale
Due to its strategic position on the pass, S. Maria del Castello (670m) has for centuries been
the only point of transit between Vico Equense and Positano both for people and for goods.
The only other choice was to circumnavigate the peninsula sailing as far as Punta Campanella.
Nowadays it is an important crossroads for hikers.
The Alta Via dei Monti Lattari passes through this saddle and you can also reach:
-
Monte Faito, Conocchia and the Molare (climbing the southern slope),
-
Bomerano (both going up to Capo Muro and then down via Paipo, or descending to
Nocelle and then up along the Path of the Gods),
-
the Sorrento area across Monte Comune and Monte Vico Alvano,
-
Positano at the foot of the rocky cliff where Santa Maria del Castello lies.
Between the ridge and Positano four itineraries that have been used for centuries still exist.
Two of them go down to Corvo (the junction between the Amalfi Drive and the road to
Montepertuso) and the other two via Montepertuso and then Grado. They are all pretty easy
and well maintained except for Valle Pozzo.
6a. Positano to Montepertuso and S.Maria del Castello via
Capodacqua and Tese
The trail of Capo d'Acqua is not very popular with hikers also because the descent begins
almost one km west of S. Maria del Castello, branching off the main itinerary 00 going towards
Monte Comune. The path ends at the Amalfi Drive, only a few meters away from the
Montepertuso junction.
Le Tese itinerary is without doubt the most frequently walked and also the one in best
condition. The gradient is pretty steady and relatively gentle (between Corvo and the pass
there are almost 500m difference of level). This mule track too starts west of S. Maria del
Castello, but only a couple of hundred meters away.
From Montepertuso the suggested itinerary to go down to Positano is the one shown on the
map.
Leave the small square walking by the restaurant "il Ritrovo" and before you reach the parking
area turn left. After a few meters you'll cross the road and take the steps on the other side.
Follow them all the way down and when you finally come to a T-junction go left. Reach the
Amalfi Drive, cross over and on your left you'll find another shortcut (steps down, of course) that
will lead you to Positano.
6b. S. Maria del Castello to Montepertuso via Valle Pozzo and
Forestale
The trail of Valle Pozzo starts instead about 500m north of the church at the end of the level
stretch of the road to Moiano and Vico. From that bend the shortcut down to Moiano and the
path to Capo Muro, Forestale e Molare (00) also start.
From the junction (660m) walk down through the chestnut wood, enter the narrow valley and
follow it till you reach the water cisterns. There you can:
- turn left and get to Montepertuso along a pleasant path mainly level;
- turn right and after a short climb get onto the Tese itinerary;
- go straight down to the road, but then you must follow it all the way up to
Montepertuso or down to Corvo as there are no other shortcuts.
The fourth and last choice is the longest and also includes a higher climb before descending to
Montepertuso. This itinerary (via Forestale) is mostly used by hikers going to Nocelle and the
Path of the Gods or those ones coming from there and going to the northern slope.
Follow the main path 00 to the fork Conocchia / Capo Muro, a few meters uphill from the
Forestale (763m) stone building. Go down there and continue along the steps to the road
Nocella - Montepertuso a few meters east of this village.
If you need to go to Nocella, you can take a minor path that for a short while follows the ridge
and then goes down left and reaches the road about 300m away from the bridge across the
Vallone Porto.
Maps for Hike - Positano, Montepertuso e S. Maria del Castello
Photos for Hike - Positano, Montepertuso e S. Maria del Castello
Videos to Sample Walks and Hikes along Amalfi
Coast
Links to YouTube Hikes on Amalfi Coast by Giovanni Visetti
Source: http://www.giovis.com/
Fic' 'a Noce - Valle delle Ferriere
Valle delle Ferriere e Valle dei
Mulini
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qoBW4sywGw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL_PoVAUFTk&feature=
youtu.be
da Positano a S. Maria del Castello
al chiar di luna
Path of the Gods, Sentiero degli
Dei, Walk of the Gods
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hBPkN8MA5w
Baia di Jeranto (pomeriggioafternoon)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VHx3E59KBw&feature=
youtu.be
Nerano - Jeranto (mattinamorning)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecm_daNX5zo&feature=
youtu.be
Termini, Tore di Sorrento,
Malacoccola, Monte di Monticchio,
Spina, Termini.
Termini, Campanella, San
Costanzo - panorami su Jeranto,
Capri
Monte Vico Alvano e sella di Arola
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Is4N1gtzxI&feature=youtu.be
Monte Comune (Monti Lattari,
penisola sorrentina / costiera
amalfitana)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG328EKdRKU&feature
=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDye_XVzs6M&feature=
youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXPClXOhqNg&feature=
youtu.be
`
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHlPVNATn5I&feature=y
outu.be
=====================================
Amalfi Coast Hikes
Source: http://www.summerinitaly.com/guide/from-theheights-of-ravello-to-the-sea-in-minori
From the Heights of Ravello to
the Sea in Minori
This fantastic route – designed to be walked in
one hour - will lead you to the wonderful sea in
Minori, passing through the Valley of Sambuco
(small hamlet nearby Ravello) with a little
change of direction to admire the beautiful
convent of St Nicola.
Once arrived in Sambuco, from Ravello (Piazza Fontana) - easy hill trek along an asphalted road
-, walk downhill through a large and comfortable path, flanking a low wood, until you get into an
ancient but still intact pretty church, once hermitage of Augustinian friars.
The convent of St Nicola – 486 metres above the sea level – located on top of a jutting hill,
overlooking the Valleys of Minori and Maiori. According to the legend, during the storms, the local
fishermen could sight just the light of the convent of St Nicola, as landmark.
The area is marked with fences and a wide alley will get you to marvellous chestnut woods and
an old paved path, partly flanking Sambuco, partly canalized into the village of Minori.
You will be fascinated by that stunning landscape of lemons and vineyards! Pass through a
farmer village and follow the ancient flight of steps down to Minori.
The magic position make this itinerary just ideal to admire the magnificent promontories of Lattari
Mountain. Beware of the last stretch, it is quite steep!
Walk of Gradillo
The splendid Walk of Gradillo is an ideal outing
for both expert hikers and simple nature lovers.
From spring through autumn, it provides
gorgeous scenery in the cliff-side hills above the
Amalfi Coast. The easy itinerary starts at the
picturesque village of Praiano, which is along
the famous Amalfi Coast Road that goes from
Salerno to Positano. Praiano is between the
town of Amalfi and Positano.
The lovely Piazza San Luca is the starting point.
Take some time to admire the views and pay a
visit to the church which has beautiful majolica
tilework, and is dedicated to the patron saint of
Praiano, St. Luke. Go down to Via Duomo passing under the arch between the church and the
bell tower, as far as Piazzetta Moressa. Continue along to the small church of St. Thomas to
reach a charming overlook with a lovely view of Marina di Praia and Torre a Mare. You'll walk
among beautiful villas, reaching a crossroads where you have two choices - turn right and go to
the beach, or turn left and reach Furore, Bomerano and Agerola (the mythical Path of the Gods).
If you prefer the path of Scogliera di Praia (nicknamed "place of the heart"), you will reach Marina
di Praia, one of the loveliest seaside resorts of the Amalfi Coast, which is also reachable by sea
by renting one of the many boats available from the nearby port of Amalfi.
If you'd rather enjoy a geological oddity, then you will not be disappointed by the marvelous Fjord
of Furore, an unusual natural rocky inlet complete with ridges and coastal landscapes that
crosses the most fascinating places of the Gulf of Salerno.
Walk of the Gods
No matter how old you are, whether keen on hiking or not, the Path of Gods, set in breathtaking
natural beauty, is a must for anybody who wants to deeply explore the marvels of the Amalfi
Coast.
So, if you are in perfect health, do not hesitate...
Just go!
Bomerano, small village close by Agerola, at
the foot of the mountains between Sorrento and
Amalfi, is the starting point for excursionists
(especially German and Anglo-Saxon), that run
across the "Sentiero degli Dei" (the Path of
Gods) towards Arienzo di Positano (about 1 Km
far from Positano).
The Path of Gods crosses, halfway up the hill,
one of the most spectacular and wild gorges of the Amalfi Coast. Once reached the small village
of Nocelle, you will have two options:
o
continue towards Montepertuso, where the path plunges along an ancient paved
alley to the historical centre and gorgeous sea in Positano;
o
take the bus line Nocelle-Positano.
The name, quite rhetorical, is due to some aerial exposed stretches (made much more
comfortable thanks to recent layouts), the magnificent views of the sea and splendid hamlets of
Vettica Maggiore and Furore located just below the path. From above you'll admire, impending
over the sea, the extremely steep and wild noses of "Sant'Angelo a Tre Pizzi", the highest summit
of the Sorrento Peninsula.
In spite of the name, the Path of Gods is an extraordinary monument to the work and exertion of
the Man that, throughout the ages, has been able to colonize even the most impracticable places
on the Amalfi Coast.
Today the path is still used by farmers, woodsmen and shepherds, as it touches old vineyards
clung to the mountain: the species of grape cultivated in the area is called "ped'e palomma" (the
most ancient vine in Campania)
Beside the path, you'll find caves and terraces dropping from the cliffs to the sea and deep
valleys. The caves host pens, folds, depots and other constructions. Of the vertical faces, with a
dolomitic look, overlooking the path, you'll admire their elegant glides, peregrine and kestrel
falcons, coming out their aeries.
You should depart from the main square in Bomerano: arriving there by car, you might be better
parking on leaving the village, towards Furore. Once there you'll find a road sign to Positano,
Praiano and Furore. You should start making your way towards the town of Furore.
After an asphalted street, you have to continue through the bizarre rocky cliffs of Grotta del
Biscotto. Here you’ll need a camera if you want to capture the magnificent scenery and
mesmerizing views of Capri and the Bay of Naples.
Once passed over the ruins of a farmhouse, go down to the valley floor, walking along vineyards
and continuing until the foot of a craggy rock, over which the member of Napoli CAI (Club of
Italian Alpinists) have placed a tombstone, in memory of Giustino Fortunato (the economist who
named the Path). At few metres uphill you will find the pass of Colle La Serra (580m), leaving on
the left side a path to Praiano, and on the right an wonderful itinerary marked by the Italian Hiking
Federation.
It takes roughly 45 minutes from Bomerano: you can stop here and go back, if you are not
determined to finish the whole journey... but if you are in good healthy conditions, we strongly
suggest you to carry on. You won't regret the choice!
Following a winding route, with several ups and downs, cross the imposing Vallone Grarelle and
reach the tiny village of Nocelle (440m).
From here you can walk down to Montepertuso, rather than passing an ancient lane to reach
Positano, where you will finally cool down with a drink in one of the marvellous cafés or decide to
hike up your overdraft in the town’s chic shops ;-)
P.S. Staying in Praiano you will be able to choose between two options:

walk towards the Path of the Gods: in Praiano you will find a path going up to the
Convent of St Domenico. When you reach the convent, just continue walking up to until
the junction with the Path of the Gods. From the junction, you should go on westwards to
Positano (going across a 500 metres high slope;

you can alternatively get the Sita bus to Amalfi and stop at the fork to Agerola, then take
the bus to Agerola. Stop in Bomerano (a few metres before Agerola) and ask for direction
to Sentiero degli Dei. Once there you will find signs indicating the route to Nocelle... be
ready to enjoy the most beautiful panoramas of your life!
=====================================
Two Fantastic Day Hikes on the Amalfi Coast
Source: http://frugalfrolicker.com/amalfi-coast-italy/
Now’s about the time I pat myself on the back
for having my trusty analog journal to keep
diligent track of my every move and thought
during my 5 weeks traveling solo in Italy in
May/June 2007. Thanks to this journal, I’m able
to relive my adventures – and rewrite them in
blog form! (slowwwwly but surely).
I’m happy to report that my travel writing has
drastically improved since then, while my
feistiness and rationality have remained intact. I
mean… did I really write this?
My days on the Amalfi coast were punctuated by hill treks, bookended by croissant breakfasts
and pizza dinners (apparently sans bread). My carbo-loading was completely necessary, since I
was tackling two half-day hikes and, you know, needed that energy.
Amalfi and Positano are the two main towns on the coast, the latter being more touristy and
expensive. I was based in Atrani, a village very close to Amalfi that I found far less crowded, yet
conveniently located. Being in or near Amalfi is ideal for taking on the two hikes I did: Valle delle
Ferriere and Sentiero degli Dei.
Valle delle Ferriere
Amalfi to Pontone (3-4 hours, easy)
Note: The start and end of this walk aren’t entirely obvious – or at least they weren’t in 2007. I
recall not knowing how far back to go to reach the trailhead and thinking I had passed it, then not
being able to tell at the end which random little side street downhill led to the main road vs.
someone’s home. All part of the adventure, I
say!
To start this walk, head inland up the main
street in Amalfi. Past all the shops, you’ll soon
find a steep set of stairs that you’ll take up into
the hills. This is the least fun and most
exhausting part of the walk, but once the ascent
is over the rest of it is a breeze. Straight off the
stairs you’ll reach the small village of Pogerola,
a fantastic place to reward yourself with a
snack or
drink
with a
view.
The trail
continues inland along the mountains, weaving in and out
of woods, past streams and the occasional waterfall, and
constantly opening up to sweeping views of the valley and
coast. My only companions were the occasional flocks of
goats passing by, goatherder in tow. Glorious!
The second half of the walk leads away from Amalfi toward Ravello and Scala, through villages
with homes nestled amidst terraced gardens and lemon groves, and views of the Mediterranean
TO DIE FOR. I could have hung out (dined, slept, lived, whatever) here forever and ever amen,
that’s how stunning this part of the Amalfi coast is.
Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods)
Praiano/Bomerano to Positano (4-5 hours, moderate)
Note: The start of the walk in Praiano is very tricky to find, and the long initial hike uphill is no
joke, so be sure to bring a map and plenty of water! I… did not. Alternatively, you could start the
hike at a higher elevation, if you can find a way to get to Bomerano (by public transport, it
requires 2 buses).
To get to the trail, you can
take the train from Amalfi to
Praiano. If you heed my
advice above and bring
detailed directions and/or a
map, it won’t take you 45
minutes of fumbling around
in town to find the starting
point like it did for me. The
trail begins just above the
Convent of St Domenico.
As in the Valle delle Ferriere
hike, the Sentiero degli Dei
starts with an uphill trek from Praiano – except here, you have 1000+ steps to climb. Yeah, like I
said – no joke. I felt like I’d inadvertently signed up
for boot camp on my holiday as I sweat through my
clothes ten times over.
But then you turn a corner and catch your first
glimpse of Positano, and suddenly you forget the
hell you just went through to get to this point. And
you KNOW you’d do it again if it meant you could
take in this view one more time:
Sentiero degli Dei is less wooded than Valle delle
Ferriere, providing constant views of the coast as
you inch closer to Positano. I wasn’t mad about it.
As I approached the village of Nocelle I was intent on grabbing lunch and letting my legs recover
(or more like letting my sweat dry), but would you believe that I somehow ended up leaving town
via 1700 stairs down to Positano instead? Winging it and consequently getting hopelessly lost
proved to be a running theme during this Italy trip. 7 years and many trips later, I still have the
same style of traveling, albeit with a slightly better sense of direction.
So… about those 1700 steps downhill. You’d think it’d be a breeze, but steep declines are often
more uncomfortable than steep ascents. I could push my screaming thighs uphill, but there wasn’t
much I could do to remedy my shaky knees going downhill.
Which hike should you do?
If you can only do one, I’d recommend Valle delle
Ferriere. It’s easier to get to/from, easier to walk, is less
trafficked and has more varied scenery. Sentiero degli
Dei is more demanding, but it carries more bragging
rights and the views are more dramatic.
No matter what you decide to do, be sure to get out and
enjoy the Amalfi coast from every which vantage point!
You could do worse than those yielded by these two
hikes.