embroidering - Creative Machine Embroidery

presents...
Tutorials for
embroidering
difficult fabrics
2
3
4
Tutorials for
embroidering
difficult fabrics
Certain fabrics are difficult to embroider without knowing proper designs and
stabilizers to use. This e-book will teach you suitable fabric/design/stabilizer
combinations for four difficult-to-embroider fabrics.
Included in this e-book are four tutorials from our regular column “Material
World,” including “Vinyl,” “Wool,” “Terry Cloth” and “Sheers.” Each article
discusses appropriate thread, needles, designs and stabilizer to use with each
fabric, common uses and tips for working with the fabric and, most importantly,
how not to embroider the fabric!
With these four tutorials, you’re sure to be a fabric master in no time. Happy
stitching!
Colleen Exline
Associate Editor, CME
Colleen Exline
Associate Editor, CME
TABLE OF CONTENTS
“Material World: Sheers”
Ruth Cox................................................ PAGE 3
2 “Material World: Terry Cloth”
Ruth Cox.................................................PAGE 7
3 “Material World: Wool”
Cheryl Stranges......................................... PAGE 11
4 “Material World: Vinyl”
Ruth Cox................................................. PAGE 14
Material World
fabric fun
Sheers
by Ruth Cox
Add elegant designs to lightweight sheer fabrics to
liven up your spring wardrobe and home décor.
Types
Sheers encompass a variety of transparent or semiopaque fabrics and fibers, such as pure silk chiffon,
polyester organza and nylon tulle. Some sheers are
available with beautiful iridescent or metallic finishes.
While most sheers are suitable for embroidery, the
stiffer varieties are the easiest to work with.
Uses
Sheers are ideal for making eveningwear, elegant
daywear, bridal wear, dance costumes and special
occasion garments. Soft sheers, such as silk chiffon,
are used for blouses or flowing dresses. Stiff sheers,
such as organza, are ideal for overlays and look nice
with coordinating or contrasting satins and silks.
Use organza when making corsages and appliqués.
Use tulle when making bridal veils or overlays for
bodices. As a general rule, choose loose, simple
styles with minimal seams. For fitted garments,
use sheers as overlays with a sturdier fabric, such
as satin.
beginning of each seam to prevent the fabric from
tangling in the machine throat plate. Position a
piece of tissue paper along the fabric wrong side
for smoother stitching, if necessary.
• Use French seams, or, for curved seams, zigzag
stitch close to the stitching line and carefully trim
away the excess fabric. Choose a hand-rolled,
machine stitched or serger rolled hem. For bridal
veils, stitch a serger rolled hem over a nylon fishing line to create a beautiful fluted effect. Use
organza as sheer interfacing for buttonholes.
Thread
Use silk thread for silk chiffon and all-purpose
thread for manmade fibers. Decorative thread
works well on the serger for rolled hems. Rayon
thread is ideal for embroidery because it’s lustrous.
Iridescent metallic thread is lovely for eveningwear
and is typically softer than traditional metallic
threads in both color and texture.
Tips
Needles
• While stitching, hold the fabric slightly taut to
help it glide smoothly through the machine and
eliminate puckers. Hold the thread ends at the
Use the smallest needle possible to avoid damaging
the fabric. Size 9 or 11 needles are ideal for most
sheers.
3 CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY
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Laundry Care
Designs
Most pure silk fabrics are washable, but test-wash
a scrap of silk first to make sure the water doesn’t
mar the fabric. If the scrap isn’t damaged after
washing, hand-wash the fabric to eliminate shrinkage. Hand-wash finished projects and hang them to
dry. Use fabric softener to soften natural fibers and
eliminate static in manmade varieties. Use a cool
dry iron on the silk setting.
Look for designs that are lightweight and have
open areas. Designs with low stitch counts and
small satin stitch areas work best. Avoid dense
designs with heavy fill stitches or complex,
multi-colored layers.
Stabilizer
Use temporary stabilizer to maintain the fabric
transparency and lightness. Water-soluble stabilizer
is the easiest to use because it rinses away completely. Use it as a topper on lightweight sheers to
help prevent the fabric from slipping in the hoop.
Water-soluble stabilizer is available in a variety of
weights for special applications, such as embroidering lace or shaping freestanding corsages or
appliqués. Fusible varieties are also available and are
particularly useful for hooping silk or slippery fabrics.
Use fusible water-soluble stabilizer when creating
transparent layered petals or butterfly wings.
Keep leftover watersoluble stabilizer in an
airtight bag or jar to use
as a brush-on starch
or to shape
lace.
If the fabric is nonwashable but can withstand
a medium heat iron setting, use heat-removable
stabilizer. It’s available in either a linen-type, which
disintegrates into brown dust, or a clear plastic-type,
which melts away without sticking to the iron.
Maneuver the iron tip between all stitching areas
to completely remove the stabilizer.
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Tulle
Tulle is a great base for embroidery, as it’s strong
and crisp and supports stitches. The fabric works
well with lightweight lace designs because it adds
a layer of support to stitches, remains transparent and maintains the open appearance of lace
embroidery. Attach colored tulle as an appliqué to
coordinating chiffon, which, by itself is too delicate
to embroider. Embroider the design on the tulle and
trim around the design edge once the embroidery is
complete. Use invisible thread in the needle and
coordinating bobbin thread, and stitch the tulle
to the chiffon using a small tricot stitch.
CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY 4
Organza
Organza is another great base for embroidery because it’s crisp but lightweight. It’s
available in a variety of colors and looks nice
over satin. Make 3-D flowers using organza
and a water-soluble stabilizer and topper.
• Stitch several circular or petal shape designs on the organza using a satin stitch
border in various sizes.
• Once the embroidery is complete, remove the fabric from the hoop and carefully trim around the design edges.
• Place each design in water, leaving a small
amount of stabilizer residue in the fabric
for shaping.
• Stitch the design layers through the
center to secure. Hand sew beads to the
flower center, if desired.
How NOT to
Embroider Sheers
Avoid dense designs when embroidering
sheers, as needle penetrations will tear the
delicate fabric because it can’t support the
weight of the finished design. When using
dense embroidery designs, the fabric loses
its lightness, softness and beauty. Use a topper to prevent the fabric from slipping in the
hoop. Use simple, delicate designs that
complement the fabric.
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When digitizing
designs to embroider
on sheers, use short
stitch lengths and
reduce the design
density.
Silk Chiffon
Silk chiffon is the most difficult sheer to embroider
because it has a soft hand and is easily damaged
during embroidery. Choose simple designs with low
stitch counts for best results. Always embroider
designs on a fabric scrap first. Use water-soluble
stabilizer and a topper to protect the fabric during
embroidery and when trimming jump threads.
DESIGNS
Basket of flowers: Janome, #1002, Heirloom collection, design #2;
janome.com
Bow: Sue Box, Everlasting collection, Heart Bow; suebox.com
Pink flower: Brother, Innov-ís Project Book; (877) 276-8437, brother-usa.com
Rose: built-in design from Janome 11000SE; janome.com
Rose with lace border & small flower: Brother, #SA329, design card 29,
Lace collection; (877) 276-8437, brother-usa.com.
cme ma g . c o m
CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY 6
Material World
fabric fun
Terry Cloth
by Ruth Cox
Terry cloth is cuddly, cozy and great to snuggle up in. When it comes to
selecting embroidery designs, bright and bold styles are the way to go.
Terry Types
Terry cloth is a warp pile fabric traditionally made from 100% cotton,
although modern variations may
contain synthetic elements. The
fabric contains loops on both sides,
giving it a soft texture and making it comfortable
to wear. Classic terry cloth is woven and stable,
but versions containing Lycra are also available
for sportswear. Expensive terry cloth varieties,
such as French terry, typically have closer weaves
and plush, dense textures. Hemp terry cloth is
also available and is an eco-friendly option.
Ideal Uses
Terry cloth has a natural absorbency, making it
suitable for bathrobes, beach jackets, sportswear,
towels, children’s wear, soft toys and diapers. It’s
also appropriate for casual garments, such as
pull-on trousers, T-shirts and loose jackets. The
fabric is easy to sew and wear, making it ideal for
simple projects.
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Tip
Sewing Tips
Wash and tumble-dry terry cloth several times
before cutting to remove any surface finish and to
shrink the fabric. After laundering, cut the fabric
using large shears or a rotary cutter. Most terry cloth
varieties can be cut without nap, but check the fabric to see if the loops naturally fall in one direction.
Terry cloth ravels, so serge raw edges before sewing.
Because the fabric is thick, use glass-top or flowerhead pins and sew using long machine stitches.
Choose simple patterns with minimal seams and
closures, such as kimono-style robes.
Use water-soluble
toppers to prevent
hoop burn.
Needles
Use a standard size 12 needle for general sewing
and embroidery. Use a size 14 metallic needle when
using metallic thread.
Stabilizer
Bound seams and edges that use quilt-wt.
cotton fabric are better alternatives to serged
seams and provide a neat way to tame the fabric
pile without adding bulk. To prevent seams from
creeping, use an even feed foot. Faced hems and
facings made from contrasting cotton fabric work
well as does salvaged ribbing from waistbands,
cuffs and neckline trims. When making buttonholes,
place a layer of water-soluble stabilizer over the
fabric before stitching. Use a twin needle when
topstitching hems.
One layer of tear-away stabilizer is usually sufficient, as it won’t shift in the hoop or stiffen the
embroidery. Some manufacturers provide special
hoops for handling bulky fabrics. For small items
that are difficult to hoop, such as infant wear,
use an adhesive-backed tear-away stabilizer.
Hoop the stabilizer, score the release paper
with a pin and remove the paper from the hoop
center. Smooth the fabric onto the adhesive surface and embroider the design. Tear away the
stabilizer once stitching is complete.
Pressing
Topper
Use a steam iron on a high heat setting. Tumble-dry
to give the fabric a nice, fluffy texture.
Use a single layer of water-soluble stabilizer as a
topper to create smooth and even stitches that sit
proudly on the fabric surface. Hoop the stabilizer
and fabric; embroider. Once embroidery is complete,
tear away the stabilizer. Remove any remaining
stabilizer with a wet cotton swab or sponge.
Thread
Choose polyester thread for embroidery, as it will
withstand frequent laundering at high temperatures
and won’t fade when biological detergent is used.
Polyester thread has a nice luster and is available in
a wide variety of colors, such as fluorescent shades,
making it perfect for baby and children’s wear.
Rayon or metallic thread may be used for luxury
items that require occasional laundering.
cmemag.com
Laundering
Terry cloth is easy to launder and wears well. Use
a biological detergent for white or pale colors. Add
fabric conditioner to the final rinse and tumble-dry
for maximum softness.
CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY 8
Embroidery Designs
Choose designs that provide good fabric coverage
and won’t get lost in the fabric pile. For designs that
contain weave, satin or textured stitches work well
and stand proud on the fabric surface. Avoid dainty
or delicate designs, as they will get buried in the
fabric pile. Choose designs that have distinct shapes
and clear outlines.
Textured embroidery designs that contain heavily textured stitches, such as candlewicking or
crewel-type stitches, are great because they correspond well with the fabric texture. The featured
folk-style design below is comprised of chain and
satin stitches, which provide good fabric coverage.
The featured sunflower design on page 18 includes
candlewicking and very close set stippling and
satin stitches, providing a 3-D effect that also
works well with the fabric texture.
Satin appliqués add a luxurious touch to items
and work particularly well with plush fabrics. Use a
topper between the terry cloth and appliqué fabric
to create a nice smooth surface and clearly visible
border stitches. Use temporary spray adhesive to
hold the appliqué fabric in place. Once stitching is
complete, tear away the excess stabilizer around
the design border. Quilting cottons are also a good
choice for appliqués, as they wear well and are
easy to launder.
Monograms work particularly well when stitched
over toppers because they create sheen from parallel rows of satin stitches, providing a good contrast
to the matte fabric surface. Monograms also control
the fabric bulk without adding unnecessary weight.
To create a traditional three-letter monogram, place
the surname initial in the center, the first initial on
the left and the middle initial on the right.
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Tip
Designs that have
satin outlines, such
as fluffy clouds or
cute sheep, work well
for children’s wear.
How NOT
to Embroider
on Terry Cloth
When working with terry cloth, never forget
to use a topper and avoid designs that contain
myriad running stitches, such as quilting or redwork styles. The more the fabric is worn and
washed, the worse the embroidery design
will look because the stitches will get buried
beneath piles of fluffy loops. The featured
embroidery design A is completely lost in the
terry cloth but can be clearly seen on the
smooth linen B. Always look for designs that
have clear outlines and solid blocks of color
to guarantee professional looking results.
A
Designs with weave stitches are great for children’s wear. Weave stitches provide good fabric
coverage, while the shading and running stitch
detail ensure that the design will be clearly visible.
For infant and children’s items, choose small designs so the fabric will retain most of its softness.
DESIGNS
Appliqué: Pfaff, #385, Endless Lace; (800) 997-3233, pfaff.com or (800) 358-0001,
myembroideries.com
Bunny: Built-in design from the Janome 11000; (800) 631-0183, janome.com
Folk art: Brother, SA345, memory card #45, Fancywork; (877) 276-8437,
brother.com
Monogram: Built-in design from the Janome 11000; (800) 631-0183, janome.com
Redwork: Brother, SA365, memory card #65, Redwork; (877) 276-8437,
brother.com
Sunflower: Built-in design from the Janome 11000; (800) 631-0183, janome.com
cmemag.com
B
CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY 10
Material World
fabric fun
Wool
by Cheryl Stranges
Wool is a versatile fabric that’s available in a
variety of weights, textures, colors and blends.
Embroidery looks striking on wool. It’s the perfect
fabric for making warm winter wearables.
1
2
• Wool is available in a variety of
types and blends, including:
3
4
5
6
7
11 CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY
1. Boiled Wool: Boiled wool is
shrunk and felted in boiling
water. It’s often used for hats,
scarves and coats.
2. Cashmere: Cashmere is made
from the Kashmir goat and is
durable and has a soft hand. It’s
typically used to make sweaters
and scarves.
3. Felt: Felt is a nonwoven cloth
that’s made by matting, condensing and pressing woolen
fibers. It’s commonly used to
make hats.
4. Flannel: Flannel is a woven fabric made from loosely spun yarn.
It’s often used to make blankets.
8
9
Types
5. Merino: Merino is made from
the Merino sheep. Merino is
often deemed the softest and
most luxurious wool variety,
and is typically used to make
coats and sweaters.
6. M
ohair: Mohair can be irritating
against the skin and is often
blended with wool to make
garments, such as skirts, coats
and sweaters, more comfortable.
7. Sweater/Jersey: This is a stretchy knit fabric that’s often made fom wool or cotton
fibers. It’s commonly used to
make sweaters.
8. T
weed: Tweed is a heavyweight
fabric that’s homespun and
slightly felted. It has a rough
texture and is commonly used
to make coats.
9. Worsted: Worsted wool is made
from smooth yarns that are
combed before spun to remove
short, brittle fibers. Worsted
wool is smooth and durable and
has the ability to retain shapes
and creases. It’s often used to
make trousers, pleated skirts
and sports jackets.
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Content
Needles
Sewing Tips
• Wool is absorbent, comfortable
and wrinkle- and stain-resistant.
It has an affinity for dye and is
comfortable and warm against
the skin. Wool is often used for
winter garments, such as coats
and scarves.
• Install a new needle before
sewing. Use a sharp 90/14 for
mediumweight varieties or a
100/16 for heavyweight varieties.
Test-stitch on a fabric scrap to
ensure the stitching is satisfactory. Adjust the machine tension,
if necessary.
• Use welted or flat fell seams for
a professional look. Overcast
stitch or serge-finish seams.
When serging heavyweight
wool, lengthen the stitch to
accommodate the fabric loft.
Test-stitch on a fabric scrap
to find the optimal stitch
length.
Thread
• Use a cover stitch or chain
stitch for decorative stitching.
• Sheep are sheared to make
most wool varieties; however,
the Kashmir goat is used to
make cashmere and the Angora
goat is used to make mohair.
Use
• Use wool to make suits, blazers, pants, skirts, blankets, hats,
mittens, scarves, hats, socks,
softies and more. Wool is durable and holds its shape, pleats,
and creases well.
• Polyester embroidery thread gives
a sheen similar to that of rayon,
but is more economical (C).
• Use decorative threads, such as
metallic or variegated, to give
designs a unique look (D).
Stabilizer
• Many wool varieties suffer from
hoop burn, so use adhesive stabilizer. Adhesive stabilizers are
also helpful when embroidering
difficult-to-hoop items, such as
a jacket collar.
C
A
B
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• Cotton embroidery thread gives
designs a matte look (A). Rayon
embroidery thread gives designs
a lovely sheen (B).
D
CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY 12
E
F
How NOT to
Embroider Wool
Don’t
Do
• If the chosen wool variety has
stretch, choose an adhesive
cut-away stabilizer because it
won’t stretch the fabric during
embroidery.
• Use water-soluble stabilizer when
the design wrong side will be exposed, such as on an unlined jacket.
Only use water-soluble stabilizer
when working with washable
wool varieties. Some wools are
treated with a resin finish, allowing them to be washed without
shrinking. Use a water-soluble
topper to prevent stitches from
sinking into the fabric nap.
• Use a topper to prevent stitches from
sinking into lofty fabric naps.
• Test-stitch the chosen fabric and
stabilizer combination to ensure
satisfactory results. Remove the
stabilizer or topper, following the
manufacturer’s instructions.
• Don’t hoop delicate wool varieties,
such as cashmere or Merino, as the
fabric can easily suffer from hoop burn.
Designs
•D
on’t launder wool because it
can shrink the fabric (unless using a
washable variety). Dry-clean instead.
• Never iron wool directly because the
heat can scorch the fabric.
• Don’t use chlorine bleach during laundering because it will permanently dye
the fabric.
• Don’t use dense designs on lightweight
wool varieties, as the combination will
cause design distortion.
13 CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY
• Choose designs depending
on the fabric weight. Use less
dense designs with lightweight
varieties. Alternatively, use
denser designs with heavyweight varieties.
• Needle-felt wool yarn in open
design areas for added interest (E).
• Use designs that have cross
stitches for a homespun flair (F).
Care
• Most wool varieties should be
dry-cleaned, as washing can
cause the fabric to shrink and
lose color and softness. If washing is necessary, wash the fabric
in lukewarm water. Rinse to
remove the detergent in cool
water. Place the garment on a
flat surface to air-dry.
• Never tumble-dry wool because
heat can shrink the fabric.
• Steam-press wool on a low-heat
or wool setting, if applicable.
Use a press cloth and press
from the fabric wrong side.
Designs
Berry/Leaf Vine: Husqvarna Viking, #167, Traditional Quilted Blocks & Borders; (800) 446-2333,
husqvarnaviking.com
Border: Husqvarna Viking, #117, Mega Borders;
(800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
Cross Stitch Flower: Husqvarna Viking, #191, Thread
Velvet; (800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
Felted Flower: Husqvarna Viking, #182, Felting Art;
(800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
Lettering: Built-in designs from the Designer
Diamond sewing/embroidery machine;
(800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
Snowflakes: Husqvarna Viking, #110, Happy Holidays; (800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
Source
Husqvarna Viking provided the stabilizer and the
Designer Diamond sewing/embroidery machine:
(800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com.
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Material World
fabric fun
Vinyl
by Ruth Cox
Vinyl fabrics are both pretty and practical and great to use
when making fun fashion accessories or home décor items.
Types
Sewing Tips
Vinyl is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or
polyurethane and typically has a knitted or woven
backing. Vinyl can be used as a synthetic alternative
to leather and is available in a variety of finishes,
ranging from matte to shiny, and in interesting animal prints, such as snakeskin. Vinyl backings are
made of cotton, flannel or muslin. Clear vinyl without backing is also available. Select vinyl that has a
sturdy backing to support embroidery designs. Vinyl
is available in a variety of weights, making it suitable for both fashion and home décor items.
Vinyl fabric damages easily due to needle penetrations. Use a size 75/11 needle and medium to long
stitch length. Substitute weights or tape for pins.
Use a PTFE or roller foot, as most vinyl fabrics have
a sticky surface that won’t feed smoothly through
the machine using a standard machine foot. To store
vinyl, place tissue paper between fabric layers or roll
the fabric over a cardboard tube. When sewing, don’t
press open seams. Topstitch or use flat fell seams for
a professional look. Bound buttonholes and zip closures also look nice. Glue or topstitch hems.
Oilcloth is similar to vinyl and has a shiny surface.
Both vinyl and oilcloth are waterproof, stain-resistant
and ideal for projects that require easy cleaning.
Ideal Uses
Use vinyl when making table runners, place
mats, picnic and toiletry bags, bibs, seat covers or aprons. Vinyl doesn’t stretch, so use it for
nonconforming garments, such as vests or skirts.
Vinyl is also suitable for bags or belts and as trim
for fashion garments.
14 CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY
Pressing
Don’t press vinyl because it’s heat sensitive. If
working with vinyl that has a cotton knit or flannel
backing, press lightly from the fabric wrong side on
a low-heat setting using a press cloth. Always testpress a fabric scrap first before pressing the
intended fabric.
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Thread
For general sewing, use all-purpose or polyester
thread. Monofilament thread may be used when
working with clear vinyl. Polyester or rayon thread
is ideal for embroidery. Use metallic thread sparingly, as metallic needles are likely to perforate
the fabric.
Laundering
Clean vinyl surfaces using a mixture of warm water
and liquid detergent. Use a sponge to apply the
cleaning agent. Wipe off the moisture using a soft
cloth; dry flat.
Stabilizer
Hoopless stabilizing methods work well when embroidering vinyl, as they prevent the fabric from
creasing or stretching.
• Hoop a piece of adhesive stabilizer. Score the stabilizer to expose the adhesive. Position the vinyl
over the stabilizer; finger-press to secure. Embroider the design. Once the embroidery is complete,
gently tear away the excess stabilizer around the
design perimeter, being careful not to tear the
fabric. If adhesive stabilizer isn’t available, use
tear-away stabilizer and adhere the fabric using
temporary spray adhesive.
large or dense to embroider on clear vinyl, embroider the design on a coordinating piece of fabric.
Once the embroidery is complete, position the
vinyl over the embroidered fabric and baste within
the seam allowance.
Embroidery Designs
Use embroidery designs with low stitch counts.
Vinyl stretches, causing dense designs to pucker
the fabric. Vinyl that has a shiny surface, such as
oilcloth, is difficult to embroider because puckers
are extremely noticeable. Use embroidery software
to reduce the design stitch count by changing the
amount of underlay stitches or altering the stitch
density and length. Use heavyweight vinyl when
embroidering dense designs. Avoid designs with
dense satin stitch columns, as the stitches will
perforate the fabric.
Heavyweight Vinyl
Heavyweight vinyl is relatively easy to embroider.
Use water-activated adhesive stabilizer.
For the featured sample (below), heavyweight
vinyl was used because it has a sturdy flannel
Or use water-activated adhesive stabilizer.
• H oop the stabilizer and moisten the adhesive
surface using a sponge. Position the vinyl
over the stabilizer; finger-press to secure.
Embroider the design. Once the embroidery is
complete, remove the stabilizer following the
manufacturer’s instructions.
• When embroidering clear vinyl, use medium- to
heavyweight water-soluble stabilizer. Adhere the
fabric to the stabilizer using temporary spray adhesive. Embroider the design. Once the embroidery
is complete, wash away the stabilizer following the
manufacturer’s instructions. If the design is too
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CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY 15
Laminated Cotton
Laminated cotton (below) has a sturdy backing and
is easy to embroider. Use adhesive stabilizer to prevent
visible needle penetration marks.
backing. The horse design was originally digitized
as an appliqué, but the appliqué fabric was eliminated, allowing the background fabric to be visible.
The open space between design areas helped
prevent the fabric from stretching.
For the featured sample (above), metallic thread
was used because the fabric has a sturdy cotton knit
backing and the design has a low stitch count.
How NOT to
Embroider Vinyl
Avoid heavyweight designs because the
fabric will stretch in every direction, causing
puckering. Shiny fabrics will make perforations extremely visible. Avoid hooping vinyl
because the hoop will stretch the fabric, resulting in creases that are difficult to remove. The
featured design is too dense for the fabric and
caused fabric perforations and design distortion.
16 CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY
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Hoop one layer of adhesive stabilizer. Score the stabilizer to expose the adhesive. Position the fabric over the
stabilizer; finger-press to secure. Float a layer of tearaway stabilizer underneath the adhesive stabilizer
for extra support.
Lightweight Vinyl
Lightweight vinyl (above) has a textured surface and
soft nonwoven backing. Use adhesive stabilizer for
easy embroidery.
Oilcloth
Oilcloth (below) is difficult to embroider because
the fabric stretches and has a mesh backing that
doesn’t adequately support designs.
Clear Vinyl
Clear vinyl (above) is difficult to embroider because
it stretches, puckers and perforates during embroidery. Use heavyweight water-soluble stabilizer and
a small design with a low stitch count.
DESIGNS
Bee: Pfaff, #387, Magnificent Florals; (800) 446-2333, pfaffusa.com
Dog & Monogram: Built-in designs from the Janome Memory Craft 11000;
janome.com
Doll: Included with Janome Digitizer Pro software; janome.com
Horse: Brother, #25, Horse; (877) 276-8437, brother-usa.com or
sewingmachine-sales.co.uk
Oriental: Janome, #1015, Oriental Collection; janome.com
Sunflower: Brother, #49, Folk Art (text added using the Janome Memory Craft
11000); (877) 276-8437, brother-usa.com or (800) 898-0893, icanhelpsew.com
SOURCE
Fabric.com provided the vinyl fabrics: (888) 455-2940, fabric.com.
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CREATIVE MACHINE EMBROIDERY 17
NS
8
FAB DESIG
ERY
20 EMBROID 25 OVER
DAY
GREAT MOTHER’S
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