galapagos trip - WinWin Vacations

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WinWin Vacations, Your Travel Solution
http://www.winwinvacations.com
GALAPAGOS TRIP
MAY 28-JUNE 9, 2003
Overview of Ecuador
Officially, Republic of Ecuador, Spanish República del Ecuador, country of northwestern South America. It straddles
part of the Andes Mountains and occupies part of the Amazon basin. Lying on the Equator, from which its name derives,
it borders Colombia to the north, Peru to the east and the south, and the Pacific Ocean
to the west; it includes the Pacific island group of the Galapagos Islands, or the
Archipelago de Colón. It is a relatively small country by South American standards,
with an area of 103,930 square miles (269,178 square kilometers), including 100,844
square miles on the South American continent. The border with Peru, as defined by the
Protocol of Rio de Janeiro (1942), is not considered legitimate by Ecuador, and some
of the border markers provided for by that treaty have not been placed. The capital,
Quito, is located in the Andean highlands in the north -central part of the country.
"Ecuador, so tiny on the map of the world, has always possessed the grandeur of a
great country to those who know her well." Albert B. Franklin, Ecuador: Portrait of a
People
Ecuador is one of the 17 mega diverse countries in the world. Its natural wealth in species of plants and animals, many of
them endemic and the only in the world, give the country this special distinction amongst the various travel destinations,
whose potential lays in nature. It is also a culturally rich nation, with many ancient and yet alive indigenous cultures.
Touring Ecuador is a warm sequence of pleasant surprises in all its four natural Regions, namely Highlands, Amazonia,
Coast and the Galapagos Islands. Each one of them is totally different from each other. And it's all within reach,
specially fit for any itinerary, for it will allow the traveler to see more in less time. Starting at the highlands surrounded
by volcanoes and valleys, visits are a continuous discovery of awesome scenery and colorful contrasts. One of the new
and most spectacular adventures on the highlands is the "Condor Walk", a hike through the lakes and high barren plains
of the Antisana Ecological Reserve to watch the mythical Condor, just 45 minutes east of Quito. Another of the new and
attractive spots is the Quilotoa Adventure, one or two days visit to a n extinguished volcano with a lake in its crater.
Travelers can drive, hike or bike and even ride the trails on horseback. The Tigua community nearby will add flavor to
the visit. The Andean train is another option on one, two or three days, for those visi ting the central Andes region or
traveling through Riobamba and on to Cuenca. Two days in Baños, the gateway to the Amazonia is also an important
alternative because it allows the experience of a subtropical and yet colorful town with a very uni! que atmos phere.
Historical monuments, picturesque towns and markets, pre-Columbian architecture, natural parks, scenery, cobble stone
narrow streets, handicrafts, sports and adventure including rafting, climbing, gliding and trekking, are unregimented
opportunities for fun and pleasant experiences.
The new travel options within Ecuador's highlands are innumerable. In addition to Quito - a must on any itinerary- and
other colonial cities along the Avenue of Volcanoes, there are many valuable opportunities and unique places where to
spend unforgettable days.
Sitting on the equator between Colombia and Peru, Ecuador is the smallest of the Andean nations, covering an area no
bigger than Nevada. For all its diminutive size, however, the country is packed with the most s tartling contrasts of
scenery, taking in steaming tropical rainforests, windswept highlands, ice -capped volcanoes and palm-fringed beaches,
all within easy reach of the capital, Quito. It’s a land of bold contours and heightened colors, where you can find yourself
beneath a canopy of dripping vegetation amongst clouds of neon -colored butterflies one day, and in a highland market,
mixing with scarlet-ponchoed indigenes the next. It’s also a country of astounding biodiversity, boasting 1600 species of
bird (more per area than any other South American country), 4500 species of butterfly and over 3500 species of orchid,
to cite just a few examples. Add to this the country’s stunning colonial architecture and diverse indigenous groups, and it
becomes clear why Ecuador is regarded by many as a sort of South America in miniature, offering a pocket -sized
microcosm of almost everything travelers hope to find on this bewitching continent. As if more were called for, its
attractions are triumphantly capped off by the Ga lapagos Islands, whose extraordinary wildlife has gone down in history
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Kristina Trowbridge CTC, MCC, DS
WinWin Vacations, Your Travel Solution, 510 No. 87 th Street, Seattle, WA 98103 USA
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
Wash. Seller of Travel #601433464
for its pivotal role in shaping Charles Darwin’s theories on evolution. Geographically, Ecuador’s mainland divides neatly
into three distinct regions running the length of the country in parallel strips. In the middle is the sierra, formed by the
eastern and western chains of the Andes that surge abruptly into the clouds from the lowlands either side. Punctuated by
over thirty volcanoes, the two chains are joined by a series of high plat eaus at around 2800m above sea level, separated
by gentle transverse ridges, or nudos ("knots" of hills). This is the agricultural and indigenous heartland of Ecuador, a
region of patchwork fields crawling up the mountainsides, of stately haciendas and doz ens of remote communities. The
sierra is also home to many of the country’s oldest and most important cities, including Quito. East of the sierra is the
Oriente, a large, sparsely populated area extending into the upper Amazon basin, much of it covered by dense tropical
rainforest – an exhilarating, exotic region, though under increasing threat from oil -production and colonization. West of
the sierra, the coastal region is formed by a fertile alluvial plain, used for growing tropical crops such as bananas, sugar,
coffee and cacao, and bordered on its Pacific seaboard by a string of beaches, mangrove swamps, shrimp farms and
ports. Almost a thousand kilometers of ocean separate the coastline from the Galapagos archipelago, annexed by
Ecuador in 1832. All this provides a home to some fourteen million people, the majority of whom live on the coast and
in the sierra. They are descendants, for the most part, of the various indigenous populations that first inhabited Ecuador’s
territory, of the Incas who colonized these lands in the late fifteenth century, of the Spaniards who conquered the Inca
Empire in the 1530s and of the African slaves brought by the Spanish colonists. Although the mixing of blood over many
centuries has resulted in a largely mestizo (mixed) population, the indigenous component remains very strong,
particularly among the Quichua-speaking communities of the rural sierra, and the various ethnic groups of the Oriente
such as the Shuar, the Achuar, the Huaorani and Secoya, while on the north coast there’s a significant black population.
As in many parts of Latin America, social and economic divisions between indigenes, blacks, mestizos and an elite class
of whites remain deeply entrenched, exacerbated here by a slew of recent economic and political c rises. And yet, even as
poverty and unemployment increase, as their national currency is lost to the US dollar and their political leaders
continually fail to tackle the country’s problems, the overwhelming majority of Ecuadorians remain resilient, remarka bly
cheerful, and extremely courteous and welcoming towards visitors.
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Geography
Ecuador is one of the most environmentally diverse countries in the world, and it has contributed notably to the
environmental sciences. The first scientific expedition to explore the Amazon basin, led by Charles -Marie de La
Condamine, departed from Ecuador; the renowned naturalists Alexander von Humboldt and Charles Darwin used
Ecuadorian research to help establish basic theories of modern geography, ecology, and evolutionary biology. Ecuador
has a deeply ingrained cultural heritage, the first agricultur al villages and ceramic production of the Americas being
associated with what is now coastal Ecuador. Quito came to be the northern capital of the Inca Empire, the largest
political unit of pre-Columbian America. Economically, Ecuador has become known for the fabrication of (erroneously
named) Panama hats and the production of bananas, cocoa (chocolate), shrimp, oil, and gold. Since 1979 Ecuador has
been a relatively stable South American democracy, although it has encountered many of the economic ills typi cal of the
region.
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The Andes Mountains divide the country into three main physical regions: the Costa (coastal region), the Sierra
(highland region), and the Oriente (eastern region, also called the Amazon region). The Costa is composed of lowlands
that extend eastward from the Pacific Ocean to the western edge of the Andes and rise from sea level to an altitude of
1,650 feet (500 meters). Running north south, small coastal mountain ranges —the Colonche, Chindul, and Mache
mountains—rise to 2,600 feet. Between these coastal ranges and the Andes, interior valleys are mantled with silt deposits
left by rivers that largely drain into the Gulf of Guayaquil. Puná, in the gulf, is the major island. The western and central
ranges of the Andes bordering the Sierra constitute the country's highest and most continuous mountain chains. Many
peaks are volcanic or snow-covered; these include Cayambe, 18,996 feet (5,790 meters); Antisana, 18,714 feet (5,704
meters); Cotopaxi—the world's highest active volcano—19,347 feet (5,897 meters); Chimborazo, 20,702 feet (6,310
meters); Altar, 17,451 feet (5,319 meters); and Sangay, 17,158 feet (5,230 meters). The two ranges are connected at
intervals by transversal mountain chains of volcanic origin. Between the transverse mountains a re large, isolated valleys
or basins, called hoyas, which are named for the main river running through them. The Oriente begins with the eastern
spur of the central range, which extends to the border with Peru. This region is crossed by the eastern —and least
important—cordillera of the Andes, also composed of three sections: the Cordillera de Galeras, which includes the
northern mountains and such peaks as Reventador (11,434 feet) and Sumaco (12,759 feet); the Cordillera de Cutucú,
which borders the Upano valley and includes the central peaks; and the Cordillera del Cóndor to the south, which borders
the Zamora valley. Beyond this eastern cordillera, to the east, is the Amazon basin, extending below 900 feet.
Culture and People
Ecuador, as discussed above, is a country of great ethnic diversity and great contrasts of wealth and poverty. People
identify more with their region or village than with the country as a whole, although the government has attempted to
nourish a sense of pan-Ecuadorian national identity. At a minimum the country may be divided into a dozen or so major
folk-cultural regions: norteño mestizo, northern Quechua, central highland mestizo, Quiteño urban, central Quechua,
Cuencano mestizo, Lojano mestizo, southern Quechua, Esmeraldeño black, coastal mestizo-mulatto, Shuar (Jivaro), and
Amazonian Quechua. Numerous smaller or more localized cultures also exist, and there are two culturally mixed areas in
the Santo Domingo and northeastern Oriente frontiers. The most prominent and representative groups are the central
highland mestizos and coastal mestizo-mulatto mixed culture.
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Climate and Clothes
Because Ecuador lies on the Equator, most of the country, except in the Sierra, experiences humid tropical climates. T he
Oriente is influenced throughout the year by an unstable maritime tropical air mass, while the Costa is subject to greater
variations associated with seasonal movements of the intertropical convergence zone and the cold Peru Current. Local
convectional processes dominate the weather in the higher parts of the Andes. The Oriente experiences fairly continuous
and abundant rainfall and high temperatures. The Costa generally has a wet season in the first half of the year and a
relatively dry one in the second half. In some years, warm water collects off the coast, causing the weather phenomenon
known as El Niño; this can result in torrential downpours that cause devastating ecological damage on the coast and
occasionally even in the highlands. In the Sierra, rains reach a maximum during the equinoxes; there is a long dry season
from June to September and a shorter one from December through January. Ecuador has a small area of truly dry climate
at the Santa Elena Peninsula along the southern coast, with annual rainfall decreasing from 40 inches (1,000 millimeters)
near Guayaquil to only 4 inches at Salinas. In the highlands, annual rainfall decreases toward the centers of the canyons
and valleys, sometimes dropping below 20 inches or even below 10 inches. Most of the country, however, is humid,
receiving more than 20 inches of rain a year. The southern coast and the highlands receive 30 to 80 inches. The wettest
areas, the northern coast and the Oriente, receive 120 to 240 inches of rain. Both the Costa and the O riente regions are
warm, temperatures varying only slightly among the seasons; much wider differences occur between day and night.
Average daytime high temperatures range from 84° to 91° F (29° to 33° C), while nighttime lows fall to between 68° and
75° F (20° to 24° C). As elevation increases, temperatures drop fairly predictably at a rate of about 9° to 11° F (5° to 6°
C) for every 3,300 feet. Pleasantly temperate climates occur between elevations of 2,600 and 6,600 feet. At higher
elevations, frost is a possibility, especially in areas of flat relief and during cloud -free nights of the dry seasons. Above
elevations of 11,800 to 12,500 feet agriculture becomes increasingly difficult because of the shrinking growing season
and increasing frost hazard, and above about 16,400 feet the peaks are snowcapped.
Entry & Exit
Ecuador requires a valid passport from all travelers, as well as proof of return to your home country or onward journey,
though this is rarely checked. At this time no yellow fever vaccination is required. Citizens of most nations can stay in
Ecuador for up to 180 days per year. Immigration officials will stamp either 60 or 90 days in your passport when you
enter. If you know you need more than 60 days, be sure to tell them before they stamp your passport. Also, if you want
to stay longer than 90 days you will have to get an extension or obtain a visa. To learn more about visas, see our
immigration section and/or check with your local Ecuadorian consulate or your embassy in Ecuador for details p ertaining
to your citizenship.
Health
Health considerations in the Developing World, especially in tropical areas, differ substantially from those that travelers
face in North America and Europe. South American travelers need to be particularly cautious with respect to what they
eat and drink and to insect bites. Hepatitis A and Typhoid Fever are the two most common diseases transmitted through
food and water. Yellow Fever and Malaria are the most common diseases transmitted by insects. As tempting as it may
look, it's best to avoid food cooked by street vendors. EcuadorExplorer.com's health section provides an overview of
these and other medical considerations for those traveling in Ecuador. In addition to reading the information we provide,
you may want to consult our recommended reading list, which includes a number of excellent web sites and books on
staying healthy abroad. Health is always an issue of concern for people traveling abroad. Most travelers stay healthy
throughout their journeys and return home as fit as ever. You have little to worry about if you educate yourself and take
sensible precautions.
Wednesday May 28: Depart Seattle & Arrive Quito, Ecuador
We’re flying American Airlines using our Alaska miles. … ! in First Class! Yes!
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Flight: American 2908; Departing: Seattle/Tacoma 6:09 am
Arriving: Dallas at 11:48 am; Cabin: First
Flight: American 1916; Departing: Dallas at 1:26 pm
Because of bad weather in Miami of severe thunder and lightning, we had to wait 1½ hours before taking off fro m
Dallas.
Arriving: Miami at 5:30 pm; Cabin: First
When we arrived in Miami we had to wait another hour for a gate. Finally we arrived at gate A -14 and had to make it
over to gate E-5. We were already too late, but everything was delayed by now. We couldn ’t have had a longer stretch of
ground to cover in Miami! Boy, did we run!
Flight: American 931; Departing: Miami at 7:10 pm
We departed Miami 2 ½ hours late. By the time we arrived in Quito it was after midnight.
Arriving: Quito at 10:10 pm; Cabin: Busin ess
Our guide Tomas Palma and his driver Segundo were patiently waiting for us at the airport to drive us to our hotel. It
was so nice not to have to worry about that.
QUITO
Up until the time of the Spanish Conquest in 1532, the territory known as Ecuad or today was part of the Great Inca
Empire, known as Tahuantinsuyu. The city of San Francisco de Quito was founded on the ruins of the northern capital of
this empire, established a century before this time, although the occupation of the site dates back t o much earlier. As the
capital of the province of Pichincha and the Episcopal See, San Francisco de Quito became the seat of royal audiences in
1563. This gave it political power over the other cities and villages under its protection. By the end of the 16 th century,
Quito was a crossroads for artistic influences and its art school was created. The layout of the city, which dates to that
period, has been maintained to this day. A precursor of other South American colonies, Quito proclaimed its
independence in 1809. Until 1830, it was incorporated, along with Venezuela, into Great Columbia, and served as capital
of its southern region. The city has since expanded beyond the limits of its 19th - century colonial nucleus.
SWISSOTEL
12 de Octubre # 1820 y Luis Cordero, Quito – Ecuador
5 Star
Modern Building
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Located in a residential and commercial area, only 15 minutes from Quito International Airport.
ROOMS:
Deluxe - 250 Rooms. All rooms are fully air-conditioned with cable TV, computer docking, mini-bar, in-room safe and
voice mail. We got beautiful rooms on the 6 th and 7th floor with a view of the Cotopaxi Volcano.
Junior Suite - separate dining area, 1 1/2 bathrooms and King-size or double beds.
Business Suite - has a separate sleeping and living area and 1-1/2 bathrooms. King-size or double beds and good view to
the city.
Executive Suite - located on the 12th and 13th floor, with a separate sleeping and li ving area, 2 full baths and upgraded
amenities, fax machine, mini-bar, stereo and Jacuzzi. King-size or double beds are available. In the Executive Floor
Lounge it is served breakfast, tea and in the evening drinks at the open bar and hors d'oeuvres.
2 Presidential Suites - the Cayambe and the Cotopaxi Suite, both located on the 13th floor with a view to the City or the
volcano. A meeting room for up to 10 people, fully equipped kitchen/bar, Jacuzzi and sauna.
FACILITIES: 3 Restaurants, 2 bars, penthouse club, business center, casino, indoor and heated outdoor pools, Jacuzzi,
sauna and steam room, racquetball, squash, and gym.
Boutiques, travel agency, car rental, beauty salon, florist, and 24 - hour medical assistance, conference facilities, and
banquet rooms.
This is the best and most elegant in Quito with very good food, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World.
Thursday May 29: Explore Quito
Tomas and Segundo show us their city today. We spent the day exploring this charming Andean capital, desig nated by
UNESCO as a World Heritage site. It is undeniable that Tomas loves his city. He shows us around with passion and
pride. First of all, we get an overview from Guapulo lookout above the Machangara River, a splendid viewpoint of the
city; it’s valleys and volcanoes. Hotel Quito is located here on the edge of the cliff. Tomas knows the city’s geography
history in detail.
It is evident to me that Quito is a delicate blend of Indian and Spanish cultures.
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During our full day of exploration, we first stop at the Basilica, the Notre Dame of Quito. This church is unusual because
of the gargoyle figures around the outside walls depicting the animals from the Galapago s.
We continue to the Independence Plaza, flanked by the Presidential Palace, the Municipal Building and the Archbishop’s
Palace and to the Church of San Francisco, one the of great religious buildings of the New World with impressive façade
and atrium and gilt interior a Baroque influenced by Moorish style, with the winged Virgin of Quito at its main altar. We
visit dazzling gold-covered La Compañía Church and San Francisco Cathedral around the Independence Plaza, St.
Augustine Convent and its Sala Capitular, its colonial patio, cloisters, coffered ceilings and the vast coll ection of
paintings showing the life of St. Augustine.
That’s a lot of churches, Whoa!
It feels good to get back into the car for the drive by the impressive Parliament Building, whose stone mural records
Ecuador’s history, and the modern Legislative Palace. Then we will drive up Panecillo Hill for a breathtaking bird’s eye
panoramic view of Quito and the surrounding Andean Mountains.
The Madonna of Quito overlooks and protects the city from up here. She can be seen from all around. We’re lucky with
the weather as it is a gorgeous day and we can see all 14 volcanoes surrounding the city. 5 are active today. The
indigenous people are always trying to sell you their beautiful wares.
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For lunch it’s off to the Crater Restaurant, located on the rim of Pululahua Volcano outside the city. This is a spectacular
setting. The clouds move in and out of the crater quickly, obscuring the farms inside, then exposing them again. It’s
fascinating to observe nature while having a fantastic lunch of typical Ecuadorian traditional native cuisine. I especially
love the salsas, the corn nuts, the shrimp, ceviche mixto and the avocadoes.
After lunch, we drive through the ghost town of Cali Cali to the original Equatorial Monument constructed in 1936, now
located at a forgotten village, where an imaginary line becomes reality. It’s lots of fun to stand in one spot with the body
uniting the North and South hemispheres simultaneously, right on the Equator. Ecuador is named after the equator it
straddles. The true equator is not where the original monument is. With modern equipment, the scientists have
discovered that the line is 400 meters away.
We visit this monument at the Inti-Nan Folk and Solar Museum for a fun afternoon. Here the history of Ecuador comes
to life. This exclusive Solar Museum was featured in Sky & Telescope Magazine, July 1999.
Here we find unusual cosmographic, archaeological and climatological research equipment, highlighting Molteni’s
“solar chronometer” built in 1865.
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Here we can easily balance an egg on a nail, at least Jan could, for which she receive d a certificate.
The theory of which way the water runs on either side of the equator was clearly demonstrated, but Tom still doesn’t
believe what he saw with his own eyes. Is it pure random? Maybe so, why don’t you try it yourself?
.
How to shrink a human head is explained in detail.
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On the road back into Quito, we stop to admire Volcano Cayambe with snow on top. We also see Cotopaxi and Antisana
volcanoes. It’s a gorgeous day.
Olga Fisch Gallery and Folklore Studio
Then we stopped to visit one of the main galleries of contemporary artists featuring original paintings, reproductions,
originally designed jewelry, ceramics, ornaments and more, designed by world renowned Ecuadorian artists. Our visit is
to Olga Fisch’s Folklore Studio & shop, which features her celebrated rugs, reflecting her sensitivity for design and
quality workmanship. She has been instrumental in motivating the inner pride and spirit of the finest artisans marking a
milestone in Ecuadorian popular art.
Hungarian artist and a collector per excellence, Olga Fisch immigrated to Ecuador in 1939 and soon recognized the vast
potential of the folk artisans of Ecuador. She was a humanist visionary, whose main attribute, in her own words, was to
"know how to recognize quality in a work of art". She began workin g with indigenous artisans throughout the country
drawing upon the artists´ visions of their natural world and helping them to refine their artistic expression to bridge the
gap between folk art and traditional fine art.
Each of Folklore Olga Fisch tapestries is hand-woven and made with 100% lamb's wool. Although these pieces have a
particular design, each tapestry is one of a kind.
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Colonial Quito changes for tourism
Colonial Quito's future is tourism. Along with this statement, both the Municipality and t he Corporación Metropolitana
de Turismo are working not only on the restoration and opening of so many, up to now literally "hidden treasures" of
colonial art and architecture, but also to improve the quality of environment and services such as food, lodgi ng,
information and security. The recent inauguration of the lighting system on various squares such as Santo Domingo and
San Francisco and the opening of trendy bars and restaurants such as Bar El Templo and Restaurant Mea Culpa are
precisely what shows these efforts which have been largely applauded by the local community, by tour operators,
hoteliers and in general, the national tourism industry.
This evening a special dinner was planned for us at Tropical Cuisine Restaurant and included in our package. I dined on
delicious freshwater shrimp in coconut sauce.
OSWALDO GUAYASAMIN
Unfortunately, we did not get to visit the museum of Oswaldo Guayasamín. He was born in Quito on July 6, 1919, the
son of a Native father and a Mestiza mother. Proud of his backgrounds, he creates trustingly a portrait of the human and
social differences as criticism towards the reality that we live in nowadays in our society.
Oswaldo Guayasamín dedicated his entire life to painting, sculpting, collecting and fighting the injusti ces of life. His
death on March 10th, a day of national strikes by indigenous (whom he spent his life supporting) and other sectors of
society, was a great loss to Ecuador. He was one of our national treasures.
All of Guayasamín's paintings or sculptures evoke an immediate reaction. The strong colors, often disturbing images and
forceful themes are meant to make the patron stop and take notice. Since early in his career, Guayasamin used art to fight
against the cruelty of life, violence and injustice. "The Dead Children", which is a group of naked cadavers, was based
on a brutal memory of when a childhood friend and others were gunned down by a random bullet.
From then on, Guayasamín would continue to use his paintings and sculptures to combat "cruelties and injustices of a
society that discriminates against the poor, the indigenous, the afro -Ecuadorian and the weak" explains the Guayasamín
Foundation. He never belonged to a political party, but rallied in support of Castro and against the "abuses and
aggressions of powerful and imperialistic countries". Sadly, the Ecuadorian Embassy had just convinced him to do an
exhibit in the United States, when he died in Baltimore from a heart attack.
The Guayasamín Foundation was created to showcase his most important works. It includes a collection of pre Colombian sculptures (3,000 pieces), colonial art (800 pieces) and his contemporary pieces (250 works). In the
contemporary gallery his most forceful works from 1964 to 1984 are exhibited. The Nazi invasions, the concentration
camps, Hiroshima, Vietnam, the "CIA sponsored invasions of Panama and the Dominican Republic", and the tortures
and genocide by the dictators of Latin America are all expressed through his eyes and on his canvases.
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Since 1996, Guayasamín had been working on a life long dream, the creation of "The Chapel of the Man" a 6,000 square
foot mural that could rival the Cixtine Chapel. It was meant to be a history of "Our from pre -Colombian times to the
present. This masterpiece was declared to be by UNESCO a "'cultural priority". Sadly, Guayasamín was not able to
complete this dream of America"
Pablo Neruda described Guayasamín as "One of the last crusaders of imaginativeness. His heart is full of creatures,
earthly pain, oppressed people, tortures and signs. He expresses his all and everything into painting. Fashions pass
through his head like flimsy clouds. He has no fear of them". As Guayasamín rests in peace, he will be remembered for
all this and more - for his political beliefs, his creativity, his courage and his dedication. While Ecuador is being torn
apart, his art will unite us for one thing - to mourn his passing.
Friday May 30: Travel north to Otavalo Country
Calderon, Cotacachi, Peguche and San Antonio de Ibarra
This morning, we get an early start and Segundo steers the car down the Panamericana Highway north via Calderon. T he
road descends in a series of sweeping views towards the village of Guayllabamba, set in a fertile river valley. The new
Quito Zoo is located here. Avocados and cherimoya fruits grow well here and are sold at road stands along the highway.
We cross the equator again, marked by a large concrete globe as we make our way towards Otavalo. It’s just two hours
drive to the north of Quito through spectacular rolling green valleys and backdrops of snow-capped mountains. Vulcan
Cayambe is clearly visible today. Th is is Ecuador’s third highest peak and also the highest point in the world through
which the equator directly passes.
Along the way, we learn about the rose industry in Ecuador. We see fields and fields of roses growing under plastic
cover. It’s a major export to the entire world, especially for Valentines.
Soon we arrive at Cayambe, home of the bizcochos, twice baked biscuits made of corn and queso de hoja, a l ocal cheese
resembling mozzarella. This is dairy country.
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The Panamericana climbs from the Pichincha Province to the Imbarura Province, a region known for its indigenous
inhabitants and pretty lake district. Laguna de San Pablo is the largest of these lakes, which makes for a spectacularly
beautiful view with the Imbarura Volcano behind it.
This area is dotted with small villages inhabite d by the Otavaleno Indians. We continue driving through some of these
villages and arrive at Laguna de Cuicocha, part of the much larger Reserva Ecologica Cotacachi -Cayapas. This huge
reserve protects western Andean habitats ranging from Vulcan Cotacachi d own to the northwestern coastal lowlands.
Laguna de Cuicocha is an ancient, eroded volcanic crater that is famous for its deep lake, which reminded me a little bit
of Crater Lake in Oregon complete with Wizard Island. The islands in the middle are lava domes. The water, which
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filled the caldera is 200m deep and supports minimal life. Cuicocha was very active in the last 15,000 years and had its
last big eruption around 3000 years ago with lava streams covering the area of present -day Cotocachi town and Quiroga.
We hiked up the trail from the road right inside the entrance. Segundo drove around to pick us up at the visitor center.
The view from the rim of the deep blue lake with the extinct Vulcan Cotacachi behind it is impressive. A path follows
the edge of the lake and we hiked up to the top of a nearby mountain on the rim. Cuicocha Lake happens to be situated in
one of the most dramatic settings in Ecuador. The t rail loops around the crater and it takes about 4 -6 hours to circle the
whole thing. The view is breathtaking from here and so was the climb! up to 10,300 feet. We walk along it for only 45
minutes and were able to see Otavalo, Cotacachi, Cayambe, and all the volcanoes of Imbabura Province.
This is my favorite spot in the Otavalo area. Cuicocha formed about 3,000 years ago when the crater of the volcano
collapsed onto itself during an eruption. The crater was covered with snow and when the snow melted, this lake was
born. When the Incas came here, they thought that the island in the middle looked like a cuy (guinea pig), hence the
name Cuicocha (guinea pig lake). You can take a motorized boat ride out to the island in the middle of the lake --you'll
see tortora, the reed used in this area for making baskets and floor coverings, ducks and a primary forest.
Cuicocha Crater Lake offers incredible Andean cloud forest scenery. A profusion of flowers grow here, including many
different kinds of orchids, which attract hummingbirds. The scenery is splendidly rugged and we were looking for the
elusive condor, which lives in this area. Spectacle bears are also seen here occasionally.
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Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
By now, it was getting late and we were also getting hungry after the trek up the mountain. We drove through the town
of Cotacachi, a sleepy little pueblo with incredible vistas. From here, you can see the snow-covered Cayambe and the
lush green mountains in the distance. But no one comes here for the views because Cuicocha is only about 10 min. up the
road and offers the best views in all of Imbabura Province). Cotacachi is famous for its leather stores that line Avenida
10 de Agosto. The quality varies widely, but if you search hard enough, you are bound to find some great bargains. We
will come back here later when the shops are opne. Right now everyone is taking lunch and siesta.
Tomas has reservations for us at Hosteria Chorlavi for lunch. Located on the outskirts of Ibarra, known as the “White
City,” it possesses the courtly ambience of colonial architecture, surrounded by spacious recreation grounds. It has its
own charm with courtyards, flower gardens, good food and good service. Life is very peaceful here.
Hosteria Chorlavi combines a historic hacienda with additional rooms decorated in the colonial fashion. There is a
swimming pool, gardens and a popular restaurant. There are a t otal of 53 rooms, all with private bathrooms, color TV
and double beds.
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Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
After a delicious lunch and a walk around the gardens, we visited the wood -carving village of …
SAN ANTONIO DE IBARRA
Off the main road between Otavalo and Ibarra, San Antonio de Ibarra is well known and has in recent years received
world acclaim for its woodcarvings. Cedar wood is abundant in Imbabura Province.
The town and the main square as well as the main road are lined with shops, galleries and boutiques selling wood
figurines in almost every shape and size that you could ever imagine. The carvings vary from small boxes to large human
figures to pieces of modern art. They are all beautifully hand-painted. The best stores are on the main street, 25 de
Noviembre. I stopped in at Galería de Arte Gabriel Cevallos and Pájaro Brujo. I bought some figur es of the animals and
birds that I hope to see in The Galapagos.
Eric wanted to buy a large life size carving of Don Quijote, The Ingenious Knight Don Quixote of La Mancha but
decided not to after much debating back and forth. I think he should have. Oh well!
The Union Artesanal de San Antonio de Ibarra at the end of Parque Calderon has a collection of artist shops where
visitors can view the works in progress. Classes on woodcarving are also offered though advance reservations are
required.
Ibarra, "the White City", is
the provincial capital.
Although the city was
completely destroyed by an
earthquake in 1868, it still
preserves its colonial
architecture, of white
painted houses with red tile
roofs. Several of the cities
churches are worth visiting
including Santo Domingo
with its religious art
collection, San Agustin
and the Basilica de La
Dolorosa.
COTACACHI
Just northwest of Otavalo is Ecuador’s leather capital of Cotacachi. This small town has every possible creation made
from leather possible. Cotacachi’s main street, 10 de Agosto is lined with store after store of anything you might want in
the way of leather - leather jackets, leather skirts, leather hats, leather bags, leather briefcases, leather toys, leather
purses, leather, leather, leather. Prices vary with quality. I couldn’t resist a beautiful purse in one of the stores here. I also
purchased a great shawl for my sister, made of beautiful leather squares of gray hues, crocheted together into a large
triangle. Cotacachi has an attractive main plaza. The elegant and romantic Hosteria La Mirage, a member of the
exclusive Relais & Chateaux is located here.
From jackets, hats, belts,
wallets, purses, shoes,
backpacks and briefcases to
works of art these leather goods
are both good in quality and a
good bargain. There is an
abundance of products allowing
you to find what you are
looking for at an excellent
price.
____________________________________________________
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
Cotacachi hosts the Festival of St. John each June 24 th. This festival illustrates the influence of the Spanish and
Catholicism on the indigenous people of Ecuador. Before the arrival of the Spanish the indigenous people worshiped the
sun and celebrated its movement. Festivals filled the country each equinox and solstice. A large festival occurred every
year on June 21st celebrating the summer solstice. The Spanish established a new series of festivals to alleviate fears and
concerns about local uprisings when eliminating the local festivals.
We arrive at Hacienda Pinsaqui in the late afternoon.
Hacienda Pinsaqui: "Three Centuries of History"
What a beautiful place! We checked in and got the best rooms. Time to go
exploring. In the heart of Ecuador's lake district, the Hacienda Pinsaquí, rich
with centuries of history, invites you to become part of its magic, romance and
legends. Hacienda Pinsaquí is ideally situated at the base of Imbabura Volcano,
just north of the world-famous Otavalo market and only two hours from Quito,
the charming capital of Ecuador. This location also allows easy access to the
region's many attractions such as the Lakes of San Pablo, Cuicocha, and
Mojanda, as well as the white colonial city of Ibarra and local handicraft
villages. Cotacachi is just a few kilometers up the road, where the main street is
lined with shops selling belts, jackets, bags, vests, and more.
San Antonio de Ibarra, renowned for its handmade woodcrafts and stone sculptures is situated just fifteen minutes from the
world famous market town of Otavalo. San Antonio is ideal for travelers searching for authentic artesanias.
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Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
Enjoy the comfortable surroundings of Hacienda Pinsaqui as you relax among gardens and explore historic antiques. Five
generations of the Freile-Larreas family have maintained ownership and care for the Hacienda. It is an enchanting place to
stay amidst historic antiques and the 200-year old gardens with a pond and roaming llamas. Each room is unique and has a
character all of its own. There are 16 suites with fireplaces that comfortably accommodate up to 5 people. Within the
rooms you will find sheepskin rugs, heavy blankets and pieces of traditional art. Most rooms have a view overlooking the
lovely gardens behind the Hacienda.
Aside from being an enchanting place to stay in the Lake District of Imbabura, the hacienda is complete with special
services including an elegant restaurant, a den with a large fireplace, and patios with a view of the Imbabura Volcano.
There is a historical chapel, a restaurant featuring Ecuadorian and international cuisine, The Terrace snack bar, an
underground bar with a cozy atmosphere and fireplace and a small l ibrary with books in Spanish, English and German.
Services include national and international phone service, internet access, room service, laundry service and live Andean
music during lunch hour. The colonial hacienda was originally constructed in 1790, a nd spectacularly restored after an
earthquake that shook the region in 1867. The building originally housed a textile workshop, employing nearly 1000 local
weavers and spinners. In the late 1800's, the unique creations of these workers became international ly renowned, when the
"bayetas", a special fabric typical of Pinsaqui, arrived at the World's Fair in Chicago.
During the 1800's, the hacienda served as an important political point for notorious guests such as Simón Bolívar. General
Bolívar used to reside here during his military expeditions back and forth between Ecuador and Colombia, finding a special
peace and tranquility, more than a hundred years ago. During the period when Gabriel García Moreno was President,
Ecuador was having serious international conflicts with its neighboring country, Columbia. After many ill attempts at
peace, on December 30th 1863, a treaty between Ecuador and Colombia, the Treaty of Pinsaquí, was signed here. To this
day, the Hacienda retains the character and authenticity of its earlier times, making for a unique experience. This one of a
kind Hacienda is perfect for out-door enthusiasts, travelers looking to relax, antique collectors, families, and more!
____________________________________________________
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
Since then, the last five generations of the family Freile-Larrea have maintained ownership and care of this historic Hacienda.
The beautiful estate greets you with its white stone gates, and continues to impress with well kept yards, fountains, cool
mountain breezes, and a picturesque landscape. Upon entering the bright buil ding, you are welcomed by decorated walls and
the homely smell of burning fireplaces. If you admire antiques, history, or beautiful things, the hacienda will delight you. An
abundance of its fine art, furniture and sculpture comes from Spain. The great gra ndfather of the Hacienda served as an
Ambassador to Spain and his experiences there influenced the decoration of the hacienda. Pay attention to the impressive
chandeliers, marble floors, framed newspaper clippings from the early 1800's and the wonderful ar omas of fresh flowers and
plants. The tradition of the Hacienda remains strong in the live lunchtime musical events. Local native people ( Otavaleños)
come to the Hacienda and entertain listeners with their traditional music and warm characters, intimately sharing their
culture, through verse and instruments, with the guests. When groups of guests are staying at the Hacienda, the owners
provide a special treat. In the early evening, all of the guests are invited to the bar area for a welcome drink. Once all of the
guests have gathered, the owner rides a stallion into the bar and tells a personal story detailing the history of the hacienda.
There is also a unique opportunity to sit upon the horse for a picture.
We were wandering around the gardens enjoying the flowers and the birds when we saw this beautiful bird in a tree.
Horses have been the family's big passion over the decades, a passion, which can clearly be seen at the hacienda, from the
paintings on the walls to the small show jumping area in pa rt of the garden. As a traditional hacienda family, the Freile Larrea will make your stay a wonderful one.
The restaurant is beautifully decorated with white stonewalls, deep blue curtains, historic art and huge windows facing
the breathtaking landscape. The restaurant, which caters for both vegetarians and meat eaters alike, offers 3 meals per
day, ranging from soups and sandwiches, to more elegant dishes including fish, meat, and pastas. Try the typical
Ecuadorian soups, the fresh fish and rich desserts. Here I had the best meal I was to have in all of Ecuador.
____________________________________________________
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
In the underground bar, enjoy the cozy atmosphere created by a burning fire and family regalia. Admire the historic
equestrian equipment; from worn leather saddles to dusty horse show medals - this room is blazing with history. Sip one
of the fine wines, or enjoy a cup of coffee by the fire, whilst browsing the photos, certificates, and plaques which all
attest to the tradition of the hacienda.
If you are looking to catch up on your favorite novel, or simply want to relax
and enjoy the solace of the surroundings, the hacienda is ideal. There are
multiple fireplaces by which you can read a book or chat with friends, simply
enjoying the tranquility. Take time to walk around the grounds, following the
carefully marked paths into hidden courtyards, or to the small pond, as you
enjoy the intense scent of flowers that lingers in the air. Around 6 p.m., head
down the walking trail behind the hacienda to catch a glimpse of the
spectacular sunset peeking out from the clouds surrounding Imbabura
Volcano.
Outdoor enthusiasts will delight in the variety of activities to keep you busy on
a cool Andean afternoon. Notorious for its equestrian services, guests can horseback ride with a guide on trails that wind
through the hills as far as the Imbabura Volcano. Well-trained horses allow riders of all levels to have an exciting and
memorable adventure. Mountain bikes are also available for rent, just let the staff know in advance how many your
group will need. All hiking, biking, and riding can be done with a guide who will be able to take you through a variety of
trails.
The nearby town of Otavalo, population 20,000, is world renowned for its marvelous indigenous market. Throughout the
week, there is an abundance of traditional weavings and handicrafts to be found. Besides the market, many of the local
stores offer souvenirs and crafts typical of the region. Get there before 10 am in order to get the most out of the trip,
before the arrival of overwhelming crowds.
Saturday May 31: Otavalo Market Day
OTAVALO
Otavalo as a town is nothing spectacular. But its huge Saturday market (smaller, more user friendly markets operate
Wednesday through Friday as well) is its “raison d’etre”. Here we meet local villagers who create a variety of textiles
carrying on the tradition of their ancestors who developed these skills long before the arrival of the Spanish. One of the
most beautiful and culturally diverse regions in Ecuador is the area inc luding and surrounding the town of Otavalo,
world famous for it's Saturday Indian market, which dates back to pre-Inca times.
____________________________________________________
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
The market is a very colourful occasion and is considered as one of the best in all of South America. Indians in
traditional dress come from surrounding villages to sell and buy their goods. Otaveleño men sport calf-length white
trousers, rope sandals and reversible blue/grey ponchos and wear their hair in long ponytails. The women wear
colourfully embroidered blouses, long black skirts and shawls, golden necklaces and bracelets of blown-glass beads.
Otavalo is located at an altitude of 2500 meters, and has a population of about 30,000.
The handicraft market is the
highlight for most tourists. The
market is piled high with colorful
ponchos, woolen goods and
exquisite jewelry. Visitors are able
to bargain for carpets, blouses, vests,
jackets, hammocks, ceramics,
paintings, jewelry, hats, musical
instruments as well as a variety of
other locally made goods. The
shopping bargains can be
irresistible!
The animal market on Saturday is an experience of its own. We started here early, before the crowds arrived from Qu ito
on the day-tours. What a feast for the eyes!
The market place for the larger animals is at the western edge of the town beginning at 6:00 a.m. until noon, when
thousands of Indians come into town to buy and sell their wares. By 6am the market is already alive with squealing pigs
and clucking chickens, horses, goats and sheep.
By 9am the square is a feast of colours: cloth-like ponchos, thick blankets, woollen tapestry with pictures of llamas and
Indian scenes, panama hats, hand-knitted sweaters and long patterned belts. Bargaining at the market is elevated to
something of an art. In the surrounding streets vegetables, fruit and grain is sold to the locals. But look at the variety of
agricultural products and tropical fruits. It’s worth seeing.
Otavalo Indian Market is South America’s most unique Indian Fair. You will ac tually discover that there are three
markets rolled into one. At dawn, the market square at Poncho Plaza gets busy as the stallholders set up their display. On
another square is a collection of ‘kiosks’ and stands offering a wide variety of textiles (rugs, ponchos, jackets, wall
hangings), woodcarvings, clothing (including the recent addition of a limited array of T -shirts), sweaters and the famed
"Panama Hat" in addition to jewelry & curiosities. The produce market is in the center of town. The products ar e to
supply the villagers with their groceries for the week. Produce stands have an awe -inspiring collection of fresh fruits and
vegetables. There is the typical produce one might see in a supermarket but at a closer look you can see a variety of
tropical fruits, corns and more than 50 types of potatoes from tiny ones the size of grapes to large one the size of a loaf of
bread.
____________________________________________________
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
As you stroll along its cobblestone streets, you will see Otavalo Indians wearing blue ponchos and white trousers with
long-braided hair. The vendors will usually accept U.S. dollars; expect to bargain! It is expected that you will haggle for
price and this is part of the fun. Never accept the original price offered and expect to pay approximately 1/3 less.
Otavalenos barter in silence, which is a marked contrast to the raucous noise of other markets I have been to in Istanbul,
Egypt, Papeete or Mexico, just to name a few of the most fun markets on earth.
The Otavalo Indians are distinctive and can
be spotted anywhere in the world. The men
wear their hair long and braided under a
black trophy hat; they have white, calflength trousers and blue ponchos. The
women’s colorful costumes consist of
embroidered blouses, shoulder wraps and a
plethora of colored or gold beads. Quechua
is their first tongue and Spanish their
second.
They are noted weavers, and the town of
Otavalo is the nucleus for more than 75
scattered Otavaleno communities, each a
weaving center. They are also noted traders
and travel extensively in search of new
markets.
The Otavalo Indians are the most ambitious and prosperous craftsmen and merchants of Ecuador. The vendors with
ponchos and hats, native to their region come from miles around on foot, riding on donkeys, carts and trucks. Whether or
not there is a fiesta, the town plaza fills up with animals, flowers and vegetables on one side and pottery, beads, tin -ware
and weaving on the other side.
We really enjoyed shopping here at the market. Tomas and Segundo let us loose for a few hours and we all dispersed.
Jan and I didn’t get very far, stopping at every stall to begin with and bargaining with the merchants. It was so much fun.
Eric and Tom got all the way down to the church and over to the vegetable and fruit market too.
I thought I bought a lot of stuff. I even had to get a bag to carry everything in. Still, I’m sorry I didn’t get more.
Everything seemed so reasonable priced. I was simply in a shopper’s paradise. The colors still shine in my mind.
____________________________________________________
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
PEGUCHE
Our next stop is the weaver’s village of Peguche. Tomas wants to show us a typical Otavaleno home. He has chosen to
visit with an old lady and her deaf and mute son. People are drying their corn on straw mats outside their homes. They
live very simple, but they are rich because they own more guinea pigs than they can count. We didn’t feel right about
taking their picture. Here is one of the guinea pigs, which they trade and eat and also use for m edicinal and many other
purposes. It’s a holy animal to them. They run free all over the floor. It was very dark inside the home.
Peguche is a small town to the northeast of Otavalo and one of the wealthiest towns in the Otavalo Valley. Peguche is
known for its weavers. Just off the main square behind the church, the Cotacachi-Pichamba family has a shop with
excellent quality tapestries.
They create detailed tapestries, rugs, blankets, bags and clothing, which are shipped through out the world. The
immaculate houses, foreign cars and the hum of weaving machines in the background signify their success. Here we visit
Tejidos Mimahuasi, which is the home of the village’s most famous weaver Jose Maria Cotacachi.
Neighboring Agato has a more traditional approach to weaving than Peguche. Chickens, pigs and small children line the
dusty road into the town’s central plaza made of dirt and rock. The town’s traditional appearance reflects their attitude
towards life and weaving. The town’s people continue to weave in the same manner their families have for centuries.
____________________________________________________
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
Eric purchased a beautiful Alpaca sweater here and Tom got me a white Alpaca woolen cape for my upcoming birthday.
It’s very quiet here today, since it’s Saturday and everyone is at the market in Otavalo.
Peguche is also famous for its musical instruments.
Jose Cotacachi's folklore shop
just off the main plaza sells
locally made goods and works
as the town’s unofficial host
offering information, history,
and will provide tours of the
weaving shops for those who
ask.
The Andrango-Chiza family works out of the Tahuantinsuyo Weaving Workshop near the center of town. Miguel
Andrango runs the shop and welcomes visitors explaining the various techniques including several looms including the
back-strap loom and the Telaros de Español a larger loom that requires the coordinated use of both the hands and feet.
Miguel’s goods are in heavy demand and can only be purchased at his workshop. Courses are also offered during the
summer months for people interesting in learning the craft.
Segundo knows a shortcut through the jungle and some indigenous villages on the way to lunch at San Pablo Lake. We
have a chance to see the people bathe and wash their clothes in the rivers and streams. What a treat!
____________________________________________________
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247
Tomas has chosen the Hosteria Puerto Lago restaurant for our lunch today. It’s located right on the San Pablo Lake with
a view of Volcan Imbabura straight ahead. What a location! The food here is also very good and the service impeccable
too.
San Pablo Lake is surrounded by Indian villages and sits at the base of Imbabura, the mountain for w hich the province
was named. The three highest peaks in the province, Cotacachi, Imbabura, and Fuya Fuya are visible from Otavalo on a
clear day, and can be climbed without technical expertise or equipment, although a guide is well advised for Cotacachi.
It’s been such an enjoyable trip so far and we haven’t even been to the Galapagos yet! We return to Quito via
Tabacundo. The scenery is varied from Swiss Alpine with farms climbing up the sides of volcanoes and pine forests
growing at 12-14,000 feet. Then the climate changes to arid and dry. The road climbs steep ravines in the Andes
mountains as small villages dot the road along the way. It’s so beautiful.
CALDERON
Just 32 km north of Quito is the small town of Calderon, famous for its "bread dough dolls". The main street is lined with
shops where local artisans create a number of figurines from a mixture of flour and water or Marzipan and preservatives
giving them firmness and resistance to insects and durability. Shops have been set up where you can see t he dolls created
and purchase finished work. The colorful and complicated figures come in a variety of shapes and sizes including
animals and nativity scenes.
The origin of the dolls has been traced back to the practice of making edible figures of bread dough created for All
Saints’ Day. A cross was placed across the chest of the figures in red, green and black colors and placed in cemeteries as
offerings to the hungry souls. Over the years the different types of figures began to appear. Today the various dolls are
inexpensive and make an excellent souvenir of the area. They have become hugely popular as a souvenir, especially the
Nativity Set. You can also still see them in the Indian cemeteries on All Soul's Day.
We make a brief stop here and visit one of the shops. I simply didn’t feel like shopping anymore, so I didn’t get
anything. Oh well!
We will overnight at the Swisshotel.
____________________________________________________
Phone 206-297-7179, Fax 425-696-0247

galapagos trip - WinWin Vacations

Transcription

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