RCU Review: CCRC-Pro 40cc Engine Kit

 RCU Review: CCRC-Pro 40cc Engine Kit More On This Product
Research Airplanes Research Boats Research Cars Research Helicopters Research Engines & Motors Research Radio Equipment Contributed by: Chris Batcheller | Published: January 2009 | Views: 58095 |
RC Universe
Forums: batchelc
Email: [email protected]
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Introduction
Specifications
First Look
Assembly
Photo Shoot
Flight Report
Summary
Contact Information AGAPE Racing and Hobby, LLC
9113 Minglewood
LaneMechanicsville, VA 23116
Jim Willis
Phone: 804-550-9584
agaperacingandhobby.com
E-mail: [email protected] Economical Gas Engine
Easy break in and
starting
Engine ran excellent
with no carburetor
adjustments
Metric size prop shaft
requires a 10mm or
13/64 drill/bit or ream
for propeller
Long exhaust stack
makes the cowling
cutout large
CRRC Pro now offers the "worlds first engine kit". The kit comes full of
individually wrapped parts. Once assembled, you will have a 40cc gas
engine ready to tear up the sky. The advantage of the "kit engine" concept
is that you are not paying for labor to assemble the engine, so you get
more engine for your money. The kit comes with all the parts that you need to assemble the engine
including some tools, sealant and anti-sieze! Assembling the engine is a
fun project that will give you a better understanding to the internals of
your model's engine.
Displacement: 40cc
Bore x Stroke: 40mm x 31mm
Dry Weight: 1300g (2.87 lbs.)
Carburetor: Walbro butterfly type w/pump
Max Output: 3.95HP @ 7200 rpm
Ignition: 4.8v - 6v DC-CDI
Fuel: 93 plus octane (see note in text for oil mix ratio)
Propeller: 18 X 10, 20 x 8, 20 x 10 (Two Blade Propeller)
Assembly manual: http://www.crrcpro.com/GF40I-Manual%20En.htm
Items Needed To Complete
Airframe
4.8VDC - 6VDC 2200 mA Battery
Switch and Switch Mount
Engine Mount Standoffs
Propeller (See below for recommendations)
14mm Combination Wrench or Socket
17mm Combination Wrench or Socket (Propeller Nut)
13/64 or 10mm Drill Bit or reamer (for Hole in Propeller)
Vice
Various hand tools (wrenches, sockets, hammer, see text)
The engine comes packaged in a nice box. Opening the box reveals many
individual packets. Most of the parts are individually bagged and labeled
with part numbers. In some cases the parts are grouped and multiple
parts are in one bag with multiple part numbers. The kit comes with a
metric hex key and a spark plug socket. Jim at AGAPE Racing and Hobby
also includes gasket sealer for the engine case and anti-sieze for the
spark plug. The instructions come printed on large sheets of paper and
include text and pictures. The instructions do reference the part numbers
on the bag, so I found it helpful to spread all the parts out on a big table.
This allowed me to quickly grab the part that I needed when building the
engine. The first step is to clear your workbench and gather your tools! The CRRC Pro 40cc engine is assembled
with a minimum of tools. You will need a 14mm and 17mm combination wrench and some screwdrivers,
a hammer, a vice, some cotton swabs and a cleaner such as acetone or alcohol. A torque wrench is also
recommended. The manufacturer even includes a hex wrench and a spark plug socket. AGAPE Hobbies
also includes sealant gasket maker and anti-sieze with the kit. NOTE:
The process described below is not intended to replace the manufacturers directions. Always
follow the manufacturers directions. NOTE:
As a rule of thumb, all fasteners should have a locking mechanism (lock washer or Loctite)
because vibrations of the engine will loosen fasteners (and probably ruin your day of flying)
without a locking mechanism.
The first step is to assemble the crankshaft. Press the seal on and be sure to pay attention to the
orientation. The propeller adapter presses onto the crankshaft and is held in place with a retaining shaft.
Don't forget the lock washer. The manufacturer provides an extra jam nut so you can tighten the two
nuts together and use the torque wrench to correctly tighten the threaded shaft onto the crankshaft. The rotating assembly goes together quickly. The instructions tell you to lubricate the bearing prior to
installing it. The clips that hold the wrist pin in are easy to lose when installing, so be careful! It's best to
use a hammer with plastic ends to avoid damaging the metal surfaces. Make sure you get the
orientation of the piston right, there is an arrow on the top of the piston head. When installing the
piston rings make sure that the orientation is correct and the open sides of the rings fit between the pin
in the piston. Almost there! Time to install the rotating assembly into the cylinder and install the bottom of the
crankcase. Use the acetone or alcohol to clean the surfaces that the sealant will touch and make sure
they are dry before applying the sealant. Torque the bolts in the classic "X" pattern.
Reading through some of the forums on RC Universe you will see a suggestion to use Loctite 603 on the
bearings. The Loctite 603 is sold at auto part stores and will prevent the bearing from spinning in the
case. If you use Loctite 603, rough the surfaces of the bearings with 200 grit sandpaper and clean them
with brake cleaner. Use the Loctite sparingly, a few drops will do the job. I did not use the Loctite on this
engine because it was not provided in the kit and I wanted to see if spinning bearings would be an issue.
I have not had any issues so far in my testing. The carburetor and velocity stack install with 2 screws after you install the adapter tube. The picture
shows what order the gaskets go in. Next you can install the tube from the carburetor to the crankcase. The anti-sieze is included for the spark plug threads. Don't get any on the electrode and as a rule of
thumb try and keep the anti-sieze away from the last 1-2 threads. When installing spark plug,
remember that it is threaded into aluminum, so don't overtorque it. I would recommend using the torque
wrench any time that you reinstall the spark plug. When installing the crankshaft sensor the plastic plate
can crack easy, so be careful not to overtorque the screws. All up weight came in at 43.9 oz. for the engine, 2.9 for the mount and 4.1 for the ignition module. I
used a template to drill the mounting holes. Be sure to account for any side and down thrust that you
may add, as that will change the ultimate location of the spinner and propeller in relation to your
cowling. If you look at the picture of the electronic ignition module you will notice some fuel tubing between the
ignition lead and the RPM sensor wire on the bottom of the module. I placed some tubing over the nut
that holds the ignition module to the firewall to prevent chafing on either wire. You have to pay extra
attention to vibration with a gas engine. You will also notice the throttle is nonconductive (plastic). This
is an essential for a gas engine. I also have the ignition module battery as far forward as possible
(minimum 6" from the radio gear) to minimize any interference issues. PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
AMSOIL is a manufacturer of oils for many applications. They are known for their high
quality and excellent performance. The oil that was evaluated for this review was the
Saber Synthetic 100:1 Two Stroke Oil. This product is designed to run at leaner ratios
(100 parts gas to 1 part oil verses 50:1 or 25:1). This means less buildup and a cleaner
running engine. The specifications can be found here: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atp.aspx
MSDS for AMSOIL Saber 100:1 Two Stroke Oil: http://www.amsoil.com/msds/atp.pdf
The oil that I used for the first few hours and the first flight of this engine was Homelite
brand at a 50:1 mix ratio. This oil is a synthetic oil with fuel stabilizers and is sold in the
big box home improvement stores where 2 stroke equipment (trimmers and chainsaws)
are. I ran this blend with Exxon Brand 93 Octane gas at a 50:1 mix ratio. Follow the mix
ratio that the oil recommends. If you run the engine at 25:1 to 35:1 with synthetic oil like
the manufacturer recommends the engine will spit large amounts of excess oil out of the
exhaust and the engine will be very hard to start.
Here is what Jim from AGAPE Racing and Hobby recommends:
"It is further recommended that you use a 100% synthetic 2-cycle oil,
mixed in the correct proportion for both break-in and on-going
operation. Amsoil Saber 100:1, for air cooled engines, is an excellent
oil and is appropriate for most applications. It is advisable to use a
richer mix for break-in and then the normal mix for on going
operation. For example, using Amsoil Saber, the break-in ratio should
be 50-60:1. For normal operation a ratio of 80:1 should work well. It
is important to measure the oil carefully. Under no circumstances
should the engine be run without the proper amount of 2-cycle oil in
the fuel."
Here is a side by side test of the Homelite Brand oil and the AMSOIL. Since the engine is
still "breaking in", I followed Jim's recommendation of 50-60:1. These tests were
conducted on the same day, same conditions with the same base fuel to keep variables to
a minimum. Two fuel cans were used with Exxon 93 Octane Gas from the same pump.
This test was done at 68 F temperature,30.04 in Hg pressure with 18x6-10, 18x10 and
20x6-10 Zinger Brand wood propellers. A digital pull-scale and a digital tachometer was
used to take the measurements. The idle was adjusted on the first run and then was not
moved for the duration of the tests. The fuel tank was completely emptied between tests.
Homelite 50:1
Idle RPM
Full Power Static
RPM
Thrust (lbs)
Amsoil 60:1
18x6
1700
7300
18x10
2200
7000
20x6-10
1800
6000
18x6
2000
7300
18x10
1800
7100
20x6-10
1800
6100
14.6
14.4
15.5
14.6
15.1
16.0
I was a bit skeptical that there would be and differences in the data between the two oils.
The results show that the AMSOIL gave consistently better performance with the 18x10
and 20x6-10 propellers and equal with the 18x6-10 propeller. When the engine is fully
broken in and a 80:1 mixture is used I would expect the differences in the Homelite
Brand and the Amsoil Brand to increase. The AMSOIL Saber 100:1 oil performed excellent during my testing. This oil has excellent
lubricity and cleanliness properties to control friction and prevent wear, plug fouling, ring
sticking and exhaust port blocking.
Engine Break In
All engines require a break in period to allows the internal engine parts to wear in correctly. The break in
procedure for this engine is simple. The instructions tell you to run the engine for 5 minutes at low
throttle, then stop and check for loose fasteners and components. Then to run the engine 4 times at 30
minutes each, allowing the engine to cool between each engine run. The two-hour break in period will
also allow you to become familiar with the engine and see if there are any engine related problems
(chafing, radio interference, etc.). I completed the break in at 50:1 oil/gas mix ratio with 93 octane gas.
The engine will continue to break in as you fly it. Be sure to treat the engine carefully when flying by
applying throttle gently and limit acrobatic maneuvers. You will probably need to lean the carburetor out
after the first few flights. It is important not to run it rich for two long or you will wash away the carbon
deposits that give the engine more power (buildup on the top of the piston increases compression ratio).
The CRRC Pro 40cc engine was tested on a Cermark 1/4 Scale Pitts
biplane. The all up weight came in at a bit over 12 lbs. Even with the
smallest propeller the thrust to weight ratio was more than 1. Since the
engine was still breaking in, I limited the flights to mild aerobatics and
general pattern work. As you can see on the video I am using a heavy arc welders glove to
start the engine. Starting the engine is not hard, but you do need to
exercise caution around the propeller. Choke the carburetor and turn
the ignition on. The choke is applied by closing the throttle and pulling
the choke lever on the carburetor. Flip the propeller until the engine
"pops". Then move the throttle to un-click the choke and flip the
propeller until the engine starts. Above 70 degrees the engine would
often start in 1-2 flips. When it was colder (like in the video) the engine
would require 5-6 flips. If you don't flip the propeller hard enough when
starting, it may start backwards. If that happens, shut the ignition off
and restart the engine. The engine ran out of the box without any adjustments to the
carburetor. After the break in I did adjust the throttle stop slightly.
Depending on the propeller the engine will idle at 1700-2000 rpm. You
can hear the engine start to "4-stroke" during some of the fly by's on
the video. This is a sign that it is time to start leaning the carburetor
out. The engine ran excellent in flight. If you are making the transition to
gas power from glow power, you will like the reliability and ease of
operation that the gas power gives you. There is no need to adjust
needle valves each time you go to the field and the fuel is much more
economical. Click Below to View the Videos: 3.2 MB
24.4 MB
I found the CRRC Pro 40 engine to be a great value and a reliable engine. Assembling the engine was
easy and gave me first hand knowledge of the inner workings of this engine. I found this to be a great
first gas engine experience as the support that I received from Jim at AGAPE Racing and Hobby was top
notch. CRRC Pro 40 cc Engine and AMSOIL:
AGAPE Racing and Hobby, LLC
9113 Minglewood Lane
Mechanicsville, VA 23116
Jim Willis
Phone: 804-550-9584
www.agaperacingandhobby.com
E-mail: [email protected]
Special Thanks to Jake Ordonez Comments on RCU Review: CCRC-Pro 40cc Engine Kit
Posted by: I-fly-any-and-all on 01/19/2009
Profile Awesome! I recently acquired that same plane at a swap meet for $40 barely used! should fly great by looking at your
videos!
Posted by: Brokenprop on 01/20/2009
The supplied instructions are very entertaining. Lots of fun to assemble.
Profile Posted by: dragnbye on 01/20/2009
i love the idea of building it your self great job hope more catch on Profile Posted by: JohnVH on 01/21/2009
How much is it?
Profile Posted by: batchelc on 01/22/2009
Contact Jim at www.agaperacingandhobby.com for pricing. Profile Posted by: elderair on 01/31/2009
Profile Jim Willis at Agape is a great person to deal with and I can verify that this engine is a very nice and complete unit.
Mine is assembled and bench ran teriffic and will be going on my 74" Extreme Flight Yak 54. Thanks Agape!
Posted by: RichardGee on 02/17/2009
Great article. I wish it had included the price.
Profile Posted by: RC-Deity on 02/17/2009
Profile Posted by: batchelc on 02/17/2009
Profile Too bad that I know Mr RC-Deity is actually an old co-worker who does not fly R/C airplanes at all. Have fun Jason! Posted by: mcadamsp on 02/18/2009
Profile Imagine that. You go to the website and it sends you to the ebay store that has no products but says there will be
more on 02/19, but you can not find the price anywhere
more on 02/19, but you can not find the price anywhere
Page: 1 2 > The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply
generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in
products like the one featured in the review. EMAIL THIS ARTICLE OR CHECK OUT THESE OTHER GREAT REVIEWS!
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