Ancient Cultural Contacts between Ecuador, West Mexico, and the
Transcription
Ancient Cultural Contacts between Ecuador, West Mexico, and the
ANCIENT CULTURAL CONTACTS BETWEEN ECUADOR, WEST MEXICO, AND THE AMERICAN SOUTHWEST: CLOTHING SIMILARITIES PatriciaRieffAnawalt Clothingstyles, design motifsyand techniquesof clothproductionfound in codex illustrationsand on pottery and extant textilefragmentssuggestdiffusionof culturetraitsfrom the northerncoast of SouthAmericato West Mexico and on into the AmericanSouthwest. The non-mesoamericangarments depictedin a West Mexican sixteenth-centurymanuscriptand on mortuaryfigurinesburiedmorethan *,000 yearsearlierin an adjacentarea findanalogsonly in stylesthat werepresentin Ecuadorfrom1500 B.C. upto the time of Spanishcontact.Clothing and textiledesign motifsrepresentedon figuresfound in the WestMexicanshaft tombsof Ixtlan del Rzo)Nayarit, indicatethat theseparallelsexistedas earlyas 400 B.C. A varietyof otherdata suggestthat intermittentmaritime contactpersistedbetweenEcuadorand WestMexico throughthe interveningperiodand into the sixteenthcentury. El estilo del vestido,los disenosdecorativosy las tecnicasde produccionilustradosen los codices,la ceramica y enfragmentosde teVidossugierenla difusionde elementosculturalesde la costa nortede Sudamericaa la parte oeste de Mexico y al suroestede los Estados Unidos. Los trajesde origen no-mesoamericanoilustradosen un manuscritodel siglo dieciseis,provenientedel oestede Mexico,y los mostradosen figuritasdepositadasen tumbas mas de un milenio antes, tienen analog7asolo con los estilos del vestidopresentesen Ecuadordesde 1500 A.C. hasta el momentodel contactocon los Espanoles.La ropay los disenosdecorativosrepresentadosen las tumbas enforma de tota de Ixtlan del Rlo, en Nayarit,indicanque estosparalelosexistlan tan tempranocomo 400 A.C. Otra informaciondiversasugiere qalehubieronpersistentescontactosmarltimosentre el Ecuadory el oeste de Mexico durantetodo este perlodoy que continuaronhasta el siglo dieciseis. A numberoftraits common to PrehispanicnorthernSouth Americaand West Mexico-probably the resultof seabornediffusion-have been identifiedby variousscholars:shafttombs and mortuary offierings(Kan et al. 1989);ceramic objects and techniques(Evansand Meggers1966; Grove 1981: 391, 1982; Lathrap1966, 1975:53-61; Pina Chan 1989:33-38); metallurgy(Hosler 1988; Hosler et al. 1990); design motifs (Meighan 1969); and language(Swadesh 1967). One can even see evidence for such contactin the extraordinarydistributionof two closely related species of birds, one of which appearsto have been introducedinto West Mexico in ancient times (Haemig 1979). The paintedjay, Cyanocorax dickeyi, is a brightlyhued, blue bird inhabitinga tiny 193-x-32-km range in a mountainousregion of western Mexico, located in the states of Nayarit, Sinaloa, and Durango. It appears nowhere else in North or Central America; its taxonomically closest relative, the white-tailedjay (Cyanocorax mystacalis), is known only in the coastal regions of Ecuadorand northernPeru. These two birds are separatedby a distance of 4,000 km,l making the painted jay's distribution one of the most isolated and unusual in the Western Hemisphere (Haemig 1979). A feasible explanationfor this anomaly is importationvia seabornetrade. To the above list of similaritiessharedby northernSouth Americaand West Mexico, this article adds a furthertrait, clothing. PICTORIALEVIDENCEFOR ECUADOR-WEST MEXICOCONTACT TarascanClothing:Sixteenth Century The investigationwas originallytriggeredby garmentinconsistenciesdepictedin an earlycolonial codex that originatedin the highlandsof West Mexico (Figure 1). The Relacion de Michoacanwas PatriciaRief Anawalt,Centerfor the Studyof RegionalDress,FowlerMuseumof CulturalHistory,University of California,Los Angeles, CA 90024 Latin American Antiquity, 3(2), 1992, pp. 1 14-129. Copyright C) 1992 by the Society for American Archaeology 114 This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions [Anawalt] ANCIENT CULTURALEXCHANGES 115 Figure 1. Map of West Mexico showingareas underdiscussion. compiled between 1539 and 1541 by the SpanishmissionaryFrayJeronimode Alcalaworkingwith Tarascaninformantsand native artists.The documentdealswith the Prehispanicsocial and religious institutions of the Tarascankingdom's ruling class (Freddolino 1973). The clothing shown in the Relacion is distinct from Prehispanicclothing known for all other areas of Mesoamerica(Anawalt 1981). Whereasthe Tarascans'mesoamericanmale neighborsall wore long, wrap-aroundloincloths and rectangularcapes (Anawalt 1981:210), Tarascanmen are shown in short breeches (Figure 2) and tunic-like shirts (Figure 3), often checked (Figure4). Mesoamericanfemales of the centralplateau were modestly clad in long, wrap-aroundskirtsand huipilor quechquemitl(Anawalt 1981:213),but Tarascanwomen are depicted in tight, short, checked skirts worn either with a tiny mini-mantle over one shoulder(see Figure 3) or completely topless. This scanty apparelis particularlypuzzling becausethe Tarascanheartlandis locatedat an elevation of 2,100-2,700 m, wherefrostsarecommon from November to March.The strangenessof Tarascanattiredid not go unnoticedby theirenemies. The Aztecs scoffedat the Tarascanmen for wearingwomen's huipiles,and recordedtheir aberrant attire in several pictorials(e.g., Codex Telleriano-Remensis[CoronaNunes 1964:f. 25v]). These garments,worn by the Tarascansat the time of Spanish contact, were completely unlike those of the rest of Mesoamericabut almost identicalto clothingworn over a thousandyearsearlier This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 116 LATIN AMERICANANTIQUITY [Vol. 3, No. 2, 1992 Figure 2. The Tarascan males' short breeches and tunic-like shirt (from Relacion de Michoacan 1956:158 [lamina XXV]). Courtesy Aguilar, S.A., Madrid. in West Mexico and Ecuador. In the West Mexican case, the Tarascan-like apparel is depicted on mortuary offieringsdiscovered at the bottom of a group of deep-shaft tombs similar to those along the northwest coast of South America (Long 1967) but foreign to Mesoamerica. ARCHAEOLOGICAL EVIDENCE FOR ECUADOR-WEST MEXICO CONTACT Ixtlan del Rlo Clothing: 400 B. C.-A.D. 400 The large, hollow, terra-cotta figurines found at the site of Ixtlan del Rio, Nayarit (see Figure 1) date from associated shell material to 400 B.C.-A.D. 400 (Kan et al. 1989:69), over a millennium Figure3. Tarascanmales' tunic-likeshirt and females'tight, short skirt and mini-mantle. Alse visible are non-mesoamerican basket-handlevessels with teapot spouts (from Relacion de Michoacan 1956:207 llamina XXXVIIl). CourtesyAguilar,S.A., Madrid. This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions ANCIENT CULTURALEXCHANGES Anawalt] : __/12>t:0:Wvls6 W r0002tit:1';it'i00495*;v;n50Xt5a9d;;e;i! 1 17 7t00'ig 00 ' t 00; 0500000 Figure4. In additionto the checkedshirts discussedin the text, this illustrationis also noteworthyfor the presenceof elbowpipesandemphasison smallstools, bothatypicalof Mesoamerica(fromRelacionde Michoacan 1956:11llaminaIIl). CourtesyAguilar,S.A., Madrid. Figure 5. Large clay figure of a female wearing a geometric-patterned skirt, mini-mantle, and multiple earrings. Ixtlan del Rio (400 B.C.-A.D. 400), Nayarit, Mexico (from von Winning 1968:Plate 183). This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 118 LATIN AMERICANANTIQUITY [Vol. 3, No. 2, 1992 Figure6. Large clay figureof a male wearing which hangs a pelvic cover.Ixtlan del Rio (400 multipleearrings,a checkedshirt, and short breeches,from B.C.-A.D. 400) Nayarit, Mexico (fromWestheimet Plate 164). Courtesyof the publisher. C)1972 The al. 1972: PutnamPublishingGroup. before the Tarascanempire flourishedin the high mountains of nearby Michoacan.The Nayarit human effigies are unique among the entire complex of Multiple ringsare worn aroundtheir ears (see FiguresS mesoamericanfigurinesin two respects: and 6) and their clothingis decoratedwith distinctive polychromemotifs. The Ixtlandel Rio females are clad in tight, short,geometricallypatternedskirts(Figure5). These garments often display contiguous,decoratedsquaresthat collectively producea checkeredeffect. Some of the figurinesalso have a matchingcloth band worn either under or over one shoulder. TheIxtlan del Rio males wear, in place of the pan-mesoamericanloincloth, Tarascan-likeshort breeches; some include an oblong, shell-like pelvic cover hangingfrom the waist. Many of these male figurinesare depicted in tunic-like shirts often decorated with a pattern of geometrically decorated squares(Figure6). Theunusual garment styles of the Ixtlan del Rio figurinesappear over a thousand years later among the Tarascansof Michoacan.These dress modes are distinct from anythingelse in Mesoamerica but similar to each other. Clothingevidence suggeststhis apparelderived from the northern coast of South America. Ecuadorian Clothing:1500 B.C.-A.D. 1530 Early depictionsof a SouthAmericanshirtarefoundin the Ecuadoriancoastalprovinceof Manabi (Figure 7). During the Chorreraphase (Late Formative: 1500-300 B.C.), hollow ceramic figurines were producedat the site of Chacras.These pieces display clothing similar in constructionto that ofIxtlan del Rio. A male wears a short shirt and breecheswhose design motifs are decoratedwith This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions ANCIENT CULTURALEXCHANGES Anawalt] Figure 7. 119 Map of the Manabi coast of Ecuador showing sites and culture areas under discussion. zoned punctation(Figure8); a female is clad in a miniscule tight skirt and matchingmini-mantle, both punctateincised (Figure9). Largeclay human figureshave been found at Los Esteroson the coast of Ecuadorin Bahia phase (500 B.C.-100 A.D.) contexts (Lapiner 1976:334). These hollow Los Esterossculpturesoften wear multiple earrings,as do their slightly later Ixtlan del Rio counterparts.A furtherparallel trait is geometricallypatterned,polychromegarments. Los Esteros female figurinesare attired only in decoratedskirts and necklaces;males are clad in short shirts over which are often worn a large,curved pendant (Figure 10). The generalshape and size of these Ecuadorianpectoralsand the pelvic cover that often hangs from the belt of Ixtlan del Rio males (see Figure 6) appearto be identical. This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 120 LATIN AMERICANANTIQUITY [Vol. 3, No. 2, 1992 Figure 8. Clay figure of a male wearing a short shirt and breeclles witll zoned-punctation patterning. Chacras, Chorrela culture (1500-300 B.C.), Manabi province, Ecuador (from Lapiner 1976:Plate 722). Additionalcostume evidence for Ecuadorian-WestMexicancontactappearson a ceramic female figure(Figure11) datingfrom the Late Guangala/EarlyMantenophase (A.D. 700-800) and coming fromManabi province, coastal Ecuador(Olaf Holm, personalcommunication 1989). This figurine wearsa mini-mantle and short skirt patternedin geometricallydecoratedsquares, designs almost identicalto those on the skirt of the Ixtlan del Rio female (see Figure 5). A preferencefor clothingmarkedinto geometricallypatternedgrids continuedin Ecuadorto the timeof Europeancontact. A few fragmentsof cloth from the MilagrQuevedo culture(A.D. 40S SpanishConquest)are still extant (see Gardner1979);one is patternedwith decorated,contiguous squares(Figure12). Similarmotifs appearon the garmentof a personagedepictedon a potteryseal/ stampthat dates from the Mantenophase of coastalManabiprovince(A.D. 70>1530) (Figure13). This propensityfor garmentsdecoratedwith squaresis a recurrenttheme in the long histow of Andeanweaving.Thanksto the ancientpracticeof mummy burialsin the dw sandsof coastalPeru, examplesof checkeredshirts have been found that date back from the Contactperiod Inca to the Paracascultureat the time of Christ. The geometricmotifs most analogousto those of this study arefound on Huari shirts from aroundA.D. 500 (see Lapiner 1976:Plate543) found on the south coastof Peru.However,in none of the Andeanhigh cultureswas the male shirt found in association witheither short breechesor female short skirtsand mini-mantles.Depictions of this combination ofgarmentsoccur only on ceramicsfrom coastalEcuadorwhere,unfortunately, the tropicalclimate rarely permits survival of the textiles themselves. Within Mesoamerica,the tradition of Ecuadorian-styleclothing markedinto squaresis known onlyfor West Mexico, both at Ixtlandel Rio, 400 B.C.-A.D. 400, and amongthe sixteenth-century Tarascans.Similar garment types and geometric designs are not found in other mesoamerican This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions ANCIENT CULTURALEXCHANGES Anawalt] 121 Figure 9. Clay figure of a female wearing a short, tight skirt and matching mini-mantle, both patterned with punctate incising. Chacras, Chorrera culture (1500-300 B.C.), Manabi province; Ecuador (from Lapiner 1976: Plate 723). cultures of any period. The styles occurredearlier in South America and were dominant in the Andeancultures,supportingthe view that the Ecuadoriandress mode diffusedfrom south to north. The thousand-yearspan of Ecuadoriangarmentstyles in West Mexico suggestsone of two things: eitherthe same attirepersistedin the culturethroughoutthis periodor repeatedEcuadoriancontacts served to reintroducethe same type of apparel. While archaeologicalevidence for continuity of these clothingstyles has yet to be discovered,therearedata testifyingto continuedculturalexchange. Hosler's(1988) researchon similaritiesin metallurgybetweenWest Mexico and Centraland South America demonstratescontacts from the south in A.D. 800 and again in A.D. 1200 and 1300. In addition, ethnohistoricalaccounts from both Ecuadorand West Mexico testify that such contacts were taking place in the sixteenth century. ETHNOHISTORICALEVIDENCE FOR ECUADOR-WESTMEXICOCONTACT Ecuador:Sixteenth Century That the Indian tradersof the Ecuadoriancoast had the navigationalskills and oceangoingcrafts capableof long-distancetrade is well documented(see Edwards1965). Jijon y Caamano(1941:II: 91-92, 101) suggeststhese navigators-whom he identifiesas the Mantenoand Huancavilca-were organizedinto a "leagueof merchants"on the Manabicoast, specificallyin the regionof Calangone wherepresent-daySalangois now located (see Figure7). His conclusionis reachedthroughanalysis of Contactperiod accounts;among the best known are the reportsfrom 1525 involving Bartolome This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 122 LATIN AMERICANANTIQUITY [Vol. 3, No. 2, 1992 Figure 10. Joined clay figures of a male wearinga short shirt and curvedpendantand female wearinga geometricallypatternedskirt.Bahiaphase(500 B.C.-A.D. 100),LosEsteros,Manabiprovince,Ecuador.Courtesy DenverArt Museum. Ruiz, navigatoron FranciscoPizarro'sinitial voyage along the northwestcoast of South America (de Oviedo y Valdes 1945; de Samanos 1844). In the course of the Spaniards'exploration,they encountereda large balsa-woodraft belonging to local merchantsplying the Ecuadorianlittoral to exchangeworkedluxurygoods for raw shells, almost certainlySpondylusprinceps(see Marcos 1977-1978). This mollusk was a principalitem in the active Ecuadoriantradewith the Andean high cultures(Paulsen 1974). As discussedbelow, the resultingculturalinteractionapparentlyalso includedthe transferof certainPeruvianclothingstyles, design motifs, and techniquesof textile production. The conquistadorsdescribedthe well-workedgoods producedby the Ecuadoriantraders'confederationof commercialvillages, includingdetails regardingtheir cloth and clothing.The Indians are said to have kept "sheep."These llama and/or alpaca are reportedto have been shearedonce a year, producing"wool"-i.e., camelid fibers-of various colors, some dyed in varyingshades of red, blue, and yellow. The yarns were woven into textiles decoratedwith figuresof birds, animals, fish, and groves of trees. Women's skirts and "capes worn under the shoulder"are mentioned, as well as male breechesof diverse colors and men's richlyworked"wool" shirts(de Oviedo y Valdes 1945:221;de Samanos 1844:197). WestMexico: Sixteenth Century Ethnohistoricalevidence from West Mexico confirmsthat merchantsfrom the south reachedthat section of Mesoamerica.A 1525 accountreportsthe periodicappearanceof distantsoutherntraders This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Anawalt] ANCIENT CULTURALEXCHANGES 123 Figure11. A femalefigureof the Guangala/Mantenophase(700-800 A.D.) of coastalEcuadorwearsa short, ffght,decoratedskirt with motifs almostidenticalto those of the Ixtlan del Rio figurine(see Figure5). Courtesy Museo BancoCentraldel Ecuador,Guayaquil. Figure 12. A textile fragmentdisplaying a checkeredpatternwith repeatingdesigns within each square. Milagro-Quevedoculture(400 A.D.-Spanish Conquest),Los Rios province,Ecuador.CourtesyMuseo Banco Centraldel Ecuador,Guayaquil. This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions LATIN AMERICANANTIQUITY [Vol. 3, No. 2, 1992 124 Figure 13. A pottery seal/stamp showing a personage wearing a garment decorated with an elaborate checkeredpattern.Mantefio-Huancavilcaculture(A.D. 700-1530), Manabi province,Ecuador(fromEdwards 1969:Figure5). CourtesyJ. C. Kelley. in the port of Zacatulaat the mouth of the Rio Balsas in West Mexico (see Figure 1) to exchange "exquisitethings"for local goods (de Albornoz 186v1884:63-64). On occasion, the merchantsare reportedto have remained for five or six months, until good weather and calm seas permitteda safe returnto their southernhomeland.West (1961:133-134) speculatesthat these navigatorshailed from either Panamaor coastal Ecuador.Extanttextile evidence favors the latter. TEXTILEEVIDENCEFOR ECUADOR-WESTMEXICO-AMERICANSOUTHWESTCONTACT In the diffusion of South American clothing traits, West Mexico appearsto have served as the conduit betweenEcuadorand the AmericanSouthwest,as loom-woven textile fragmentsdisplaying ancient Andean weaving techniquesattest. Gauze Weaves Supplementary-Weft Gauze weaves-openwork fabricsmade by crossingwarp yarnsin the course of weaving (Birrell 1974:253)-have great antiquity in Peru, dating back to Chavin weavers in B.C. 900 (Rowe and Bird 1982).Thanksto the recoveryofthree central-coastgauzelooms-two attributedto the Chancay culture(A.D. 110s1420)-the Prehispanictechniquefor creatingdecorativegauze weaves is now far better understood.The intact woven cloth on all three of the archaeologicallooms displaysthe same distinctive technique (Figure 14): plain gauze weave with supplementary-weftthreadsinterlacing over and under each group of two crossingwarps(Rowe and Bird 1982). The supplementary-weftweave producesa patternon fabricthat, when viewed only in fragment form, often appearsto be embroidered-decorative threadsadded with a needle to finishedclothrather than woven. Several scholars have misidentified supplementary-wefttextile fragmentsas embroideries(Rowe and Bird 1982:29), includingKent (1983:189; Plate 15) when she analyzeda gauze piece from Dyke Ranch, Montezuma's Castle, Arizona. Recently a number of fragments deemed embroideriesby Kent have been reexaminedand found to be supplementary-wefttextiles (Lynn S. Teague, personalcommunication 1991). Analogous fragmentsalso have been recovered in coastal West Mexico. A group of cotton textiles associatedwith copper bells was found in 1961 by a local inhabitant of Chametla,Sinaloa. Among these were seven fragmentswoven in the supplementary-weftgauze This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions SVefis Anawalt] 125 ANCIENT CULTURALEXCHANGES .ffi: ! . ffi s 0 .'..:sy^ t Supplementary $ ¢ Weft Figure 14. Diagramof a supplementary-weft gauze weave(after Teague l991:Part 2, Chapter3, Figure 15). technique.When discussingthese pieces, Pang(1975:306) used the term "brocadedgauze,"referring to the decorativeeffectachieved by the supplementaryweftsbeingaddedduringthe weavingprocess. Pang (1975:301) dated these gauze fragmentspost-A.D. 1000, whereasMastachede Escobar(1971: 85) suggestedpost-A.D.700-900. In view of Hosler's(1988) contentionthat the initial introduction of metallurgyin to West Mexico was around A.D. 800, the earlierdating may be feasible. Alternating- Warp Float Weave An additional ancient Andean weaving technique furtherlinks the American Southwest, West Mexico, and South America.The traditionof loom-woven warppatterningdates back in the Andes at least 4,500 years(Rowe 1977:6).Of these weaves, the alternating-warpfloat is among the earliest and remains the only Prehispanicweaving technique still extant along the Ecuadoriancoast in modern times (Hagino and Stothert 1984:22-24). The alternating-warpfloat (Figure 15) involves skippingone of the regularinterlacingsof threadsin a plain weave in orderto producea three-span float in the warp on one side of the fabricand in the weft on the other (Rowe 1977:53). An archaeologicaltextile exhibiting the alternating-warpfloat weave was found in West Mexico. A copper-preservedpiece of loom-woven cotton cloth was discovered in 1960 by looters in a cave Warps Interlacing 1:1 W Warps Interlacing 1:3 o Wefts Figure 15. Diagramof an alternating-warpfloat weave (after Teague l991:Part 2, Chapter3, Figure 10). This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 126 LATIN AMERICAN ANTIQUITY [Vol. 3, No. 2, 1992 near Campo Morado, in the Rio Balsas Basin of Guerrero.This undated fragmentrepresentsa weaving technique unlike any other reportedto date from PrecolumbianMesoamerica (Johnson 1964:532-533) and is a specialvariantof warp-patternweave "[where]the designgenerally depends upon the alternatearrangementof contrastingcolors in the warp set-up." This techniquewas used by the ancient Peruvians(Johnson 1964:532-533) and was also known to weavers in the American Southwest. In discussingtextiles of the prehistoricSouthwest,Kent (1957:532-535) refersto the alternatingwarp float weave as producinga patternwhere the design is built up by warp floats on the surface of the cloth. There is no evidence of this particulartechniqueanywherein the Southwestuntil after A.D. 1300, when it turns up in the present-daystate of Arizona at Tonto National Monument, a site that contains furtherSouth American-WestMexican parallels. AmericanSouthwesternClothing.A.D. 1000-1400 The American Southwest had developed weaving skills in a variety of complex techniques by A.D. 900, following the introductionof domesticated cotton by A.D. 500 and the mesoamerican backstraploom slightlylater. Owing to this area'sdesertclimate and dry-cave preservation,at least 2,000 textile remains have survived (Kent 1983). Evidence suggeststhat in these arid lands men were wearingAndean-stylecotton tunics (Kent 1983:71,221-225). Fourvirtuallycomplete southwesternshirtsdatingbetweenA.D.1000 and 1400 are known, two made of painted plain weave, two of single-elementfabrics. The best-known of these garments was found in a cave in Tonto National Monument. The tunic-like shape of this cotton-fibershirt appearsonly in West Mexico and South America. Its constructionmethod, however,is a nonloom techniquecalled sprang-the manipulationof a set of parallel yarns-that appears to have originatedin South America,where it has been found in Peruviansites datingback to 1100 B.C.Today sprang is also presentin Mexico, Guatemala,Colombia, Guiana, and Venezuela(Kent 1983:70-71). A detailedanalysisof the Southwest'scotton-basedtextile assemblagerecentlyhas been completed by Lynn S. Teague (1991). Her researchsuggests that the prehistoric southwesternphenomenon does not representa locally derived tradition but ratherwas introducedfrom West Mexico. The costumeevidence bears this out. Although the mesoamericanbackstraploom was used throughoutMiddle WestMexico-and playeda decisive role in the developmentof clothingin the America-including AmericanSouthwest, its diffusionwas not accompaniedby the full mesoamericancostume repertoire. Southwesternmen didnot wear the pan-mesoamericanwraparoundloincloth and simple cape, but instead wore closefittingbreech coverings and tunic-like shirts. Two of the latter, constructedof loom-woven plain weave, resemble the male garments of West Mexico. The archaeologicalpresence of this nonmesoamericanapparel(Kent 1983:221-233) suggeststhat the backstraploom arrivedin the AmericanSouthwestby way of West Mexico. The mutual reinforcementof dress modes and weaving technology suggeststhe possibility of a pathwayof culturalexchangebetweenSouthAmericaand the AmericanSouthwestwith WestMexico theinterlinkingchannel. Riley (1987:86-87) describedevidence for Prehispanic trade routes to the northfrom coastalWest Mexico. He basedhis argumenton evidence of Indiantraders from Culiacan beingfound in the Yaqui area as well as the archaeologicaldiscovery of southwesterngoods in Jaliscoand Sinaloa. A memory of this trade-in operation when the Spanish arrived-was still extantin the 1880s when Lumholtz traveled throughthe Michoacan highlands.He reportedthat in"formertimes" Tarascanmerchantsjourneyedas farnorthas the state of New Mexico (Lumholtz 1973:II:368). DISCUSSION To the argumentfavoringEcuadorian-WestMexican culturalexchange,this article has added an additionaltrait, clothing. Similarities in garment styles and weaving techniques between coastal Ecuador,West Mexico, and the American Southwest lend credence to the linguistic hypothesis This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Anawalt] ANCIENTCULTURALEXCHANGES 127 proposed by Swadesh (1967:92-93) for an ancient link between Quechua, Tarascan,and Zuni. Nonetheless, puzzling questions remain conceIning the reasons for this contact, the items being traded,and why these tradingforaysweregoingon with WestMexicoratherthanothermesoamerican populations. The combined languageand garment similarities suggest that Ecuadoriankin, or adopted kin, may have been permittedto remain in the West Mexican villages for up to six months at a time and that these northeIngroupswere probablyoriginallytradingcolonies of southeInmerchantswho then stayedon permanently.They thus would be the same linguistico-ethnicgroupand, hence, wear the same clothing. Repeated trade would have maintained contact-preventing "genetic drift"and kept the West Mexicansfrom becomingacculturated"Mesoamericans."The Ecuadorian-West Mexicanparallelsin ceramics,metallurgy,design motifs, burialpractices,dressmodes, and weaving techniquesarguefor more than strongties of trade between these two distant groups. Acknowledgments. Many colleagueshave contributedto this investigation;I am indebtedto them all. Elizabeth Boone provided the initial incentive. Olaf Holm, director, Museo Antropologicodel Banco Central, Guayaquil,Ecuador,made his collections available,and suppliedneeded photos and detailed information,as did Robert Stroessner,Latin Americancurator,Denver Art Museum. Betty J. Meggers,National Museum of NaturalHistory, SmithsonianInstitution,Washington,D.C., kindly permittedme to examine the Ecuadorian Los Rios textile fragmentsand also lent assistancewith an early draftof the manuscript.Lynn Teague,curator of archaeology,ArizonaState Museum,generouslyallowed the use of unpublisheddata and interpretationsand drew the textile diagramsshown in Figures 14 and 15. Al Stendahl helped in obtaining informationon the publishedarchaeologicalfigures.Other helpfulcolleaguesinclude JonathanBatkin,FrancesBerdan,Guillermo Cock, Alana Cordy-Collins,ChristopherDonnan, Alan Grinnell,David Grove, BridgetHodderStuart,Thomas Howell, ClementMeighan,Phil C. Weigand,Gordon Willey,and the anonymousreaders.ElizabethP. Benson's assistancein Ecuadorwas appreciated,as were Susan Einstein'sphotographs,KathleenO'Reilly's maps, and Lisa Chisholm'sresearchcompetence. REFERENCESCITED Anawalt,P. R. 1981 Indian ClothingBefore Cortes:AIesoamericanCostumesfrom the Codices.University of Oklahoma Press, Norman. Birrell,V. 1974 The TextileArts:A hIandbookof Weaving,Braiding,Printing,and OtherTextile Techniques.Schocken Books, New York. CoronaNunes, J. (editor) 1964 Codex Telleriano-Remensis.In Antiguedadesde Mexico, basadas en la recopilacionde Lord Kingsborough1:151-337. Secretariade Hacienday Credito Publico, Mexico, D.F. Crossin, R. S. 1967 The BreedingBiologyof the TuftedJay. In Proceedingsof the WesternFoundationof Vertebrate Zoology 1:265-300. de Albornoz, R. 1864-1884 Carta del contador Rodrigo de Albornoz a Su Magestadando cuenta de los ultimos sucesos occurridosen Nueba Espana. . . 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NOTE ' The insert on Figure7 shows the distributionsof the paintedjay (Cyanoxorax dickeyi) and the white-tailed jay (Cyanocorax mystacalis). Received July S, l991; accepted January 6, 1992 This content downloaded from 136.159.235.223 on Tue, 1 Oct 2013 19:55:44 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions