A TANK IS A TANK IS A TANK IS A TANK IS A TANK

Archives Cartier © Cartier
A TANK IS A TANK IS A TANK IS A TANK IS A TANK*
The Tank watch was created in 1917 out of a vision, a solid concept that was the culmination
of a lengthy process of deliberation. Here was an instrument for telling the time that completely
eschewed tradition, turned custom on its head, brought modern design into the ateliers and
took its place as a quintessential model for watchmaking.
It was said that “a tank had stormed Cartier”. As it went on to segue between decades and
straddle the century, this trailblazing watch and its revolutionary form, style and elegance were
to pioneer a decisively modern lifestyle.
*Gertrude Stein.
Tank is a registered trademark of Cartier.
1910S
1917
BIRTH OF A LEGEND: “TANK NORMALE” WATCH
S
quaring the circle... In 1904, Cartier designed a watch specifically to be worn on the wrist:
the very first Santos watch was a gift from Cartier to his friend the aviator Santos-Dumont,
letting him easily check the time whilst in the air. Cartier soon grasped that this invention
would transform the very nature of the watch and overturn the landscape of the watchmaking
business. The wristwatch would become an essential accessory, as functional as it was elegant.
The early years of the 20th century were dedicated to formal research into aligning the circle
(of the hours) with the strap and paring down the design. The ultimate goal was seamless
integration of the lugs and the case as an extension of the strap. The harmonious blending
of these components made the Tank watch simultaneously square and rectangular, an ingenious
feat that was the culmination of years of deliberation and heralded a new era in watchmaking.
The seamless blending of the case and lugs on the “Tank Normale” signalled a unique stylistic
leap forward within the field. The story goes that Louis Cartier himself modelled the design
of the Tank watch on the top view of a tank: the brancards evoked the treads and the case
represented the cockpit of the vehicle.
The prototype of the Tank watch was designed in 1917 as WWI raged, and presented in
peacetime as a gift to General John Pershing, Commander of the American Expeditionary
Force in Europe. The strength of the design lay in its dramatic break with the elaborate curves
fashionable at the time, and the exercise of restraint in its form. It was an instant hit,
and herald of the pared-down trend: clean, crisp lines and defined shapes.
The concurrent release of a jewellery version confirmed the Tank’s trailblazing credentials
for both a male and female clientele, proving that freedom and elegance have no gender.
Production proper of the Tank would not begin until 1919, when six models were manufactured
between 15 November and 26 December; all six were sold by 17 January the following year.
Tank wristwatch - Cartier, 1919
Gold Tank watch with 9-ligne mechanical movement, mounted on a leather strap. The strap lugs are incorporated seamlessly into the case by
overhanging brancards on either side. The dial is in whitened silver with roman numerals. The chemin-de-fer chapter ring is set off by blued-steel
Breguet hands, and the beaded winding crown is set with a sapphire cabochon. Combines all the distinguishing features of the Tank.
Cartier Archives © Cartier
Setting phase on a Tank Divan watch in the Cartier fine watchmaking workshops, 2003.
G. Nencioli © Cartier
Photograph of the Cartier boutique at 13 rue de la Paix, Paris, circa 1915.
Cartier Archives © Cartier
Eccentric dandy and friend of Louis Cartier Marquis Boni de Castellane, wearing a Tank watch with moiré strap. At the same time he still sports
the traditional pocket watch.
© Paul Nadar
1920S
1921
TANK CINTRÉE
C
hoosing between square and rectangle, Cartier favoured
rectangle for one of its first watches, the Tank Cintrée,
created in 1921. The curved form was designed to mirror
the shape of the wrist. In terms of function and style, this timepiece
was a precursor to the Tank Américaine watch of the 1980s.
Design drawing for a watch created for Princess Mdivani, wife of Louis Van Allen, 1935.
Cartier New York Archives © Cartier
Tank Cintrée wristwatch - Cartier London, 1929
Manufactured by Jaeger for EWC. Cartier signature under 12 o’clock.
Satined gold curved case, satined and polished gold brancards. Beaded winding crown, one sapphire cabochon. Leather strap, folding buckle in
yellow and pink gold.
White curved dial with illuminated Arabic numerals, inner chemin-de-fer chapter ring. Luminescent skeleton-type hands.
The following inscription is engraved on the underside of the case: Felix from Fred ’29.
The Tank watch bought by Fred Astaire in 1929 has been part of the the Cartier Collection since 1988.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
1920S
1922
TANK CHINOISE
N
ot for the first time – and certainly not the last – Cartier
spotted inspiration in the arts of other cultures and
borrowed features for use in jewellery and watchmaking.
The watchmaker-jeweller was expanding its fields of interpretation
and inspiration to Islamic art and India.
The 1920s saw exceptionally refined objects – vanities, bracelets,
powder boxes and pendants – fashioned from precious materials
sourced in China and adorned with mythological motifs.
The Tank Chinoise watch was created in 1922 at the height of this
craze. The totally original form of the piece was inspired by the
architecture of Chinese temple porticos. In counterpoint to the
brancards, two horizontal bars straddle the watch face and slightly
protrude on either side, mimicking the interplay of interlocking
lintels left in full view. The balance of the forms shifts and re-centres
on the square. In its devotion to clean, pared-down lines, Cartier
saw geometry as intertwined with the perception of beauty.
THE TOTALLY ORIGINAL FORM OF
THE PIECE WAS INSPIRED BY THE
ARCHITECTURE OF CHINESE
TEMPLE PORTICOS
Tank Chinoise wristwatch - Cartier, 1930
Satined and polished gold case, polished gold brancards and horizontal bars. Beaded winding crown, one sapphire cabochon. Leather strap, ardillon buckle.
Cream square dial with Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer chapter ring. Blued-steel Breguet hands.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
Nécessaire case, Chinese decorative motif - Cartier Paris, 1927
Onyx, gold, platinum, sapphire and emerald cabochons. Carved emerald plasma. Round 8/8-cut and rose-cut diamonds. Sculpted carved coral, coral cabochons.
Red, ivory, black, green and yellow enamel. Original design. Gold interior with a mirror and lipstick case.
N. Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier
1920S
1922
TANK LOUIS CARTIER
T
he Tank Louis Cartier was an unapologetic choice of the
rectangular form. The watch is distinguished by soft angles
and the distinct roundness of the tops of the lugs.
This piece fastidiously embodies the marked contribution made by
Louis Cartier to the modern style later known as Art Deco:
the proud, taught lines of the square and rectangle are softened,
and the geometry of corners is relaxed.
Rudolph Valentino in Son of the Sheik, a film by American director George Fitzmaurice, 1926.
The actor wears a Tank watch.
© United Artists Associated/Sunset Boulevard Collection
Tank Louis Cartier wristwatch - Cartier, 1925.
Cartier signature under 12 o’clock. Satined and polished platinum case. Beaded winding crown, one sapphire cabochon. Folding buckle in white gold.
White dial with Roman numerals. Blued-steel Breguet hands.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
Tank Louis Cartier wristwatch - Cartier Paris, 1944
Manufactured by Jaeger. Cartier signature under 12 o’clock, Swiss under 6 o’clock.
Satined and polished gold case, polished gold brancards. Beaded winding crown, one sapphire cabochon. Leather strap, ardillon buckle.
White rectangular dial with Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer chapter ring. Blued-steel bâton hands.
E. Sauvage © Cartier
Portrait of Louis Cartier (1875-1942) by Emile Friant.
The eldest of three Cartier sons, Louis Cartier took charge of management of the boutique at rue de la Paix when it opened in 1899.
Cartier Archives © Cartier
1920S
1928
TANK À GUICHETS
W
ith the advent of the train and automobile, speed was
everything: the dial symbolised modernity. Louis Cartier
based the aesthetic of the Tank à Guichets on
a watchmaking complication, the jumping hour. In these perfectly
pared-down watches, the glass, dial and hands were replaced by
plaques pierced with apertures that displayed segments of the discs,
one indicating the hours and the other minutes.
Cartier played around with the layout and form of the apertures,
and with the positioning (at 12 o’clock or 3 o’clock) and style of
the winding mechanism: sapphire cabochon, fluted or notched and
flat crown. With restraint a priority, brushed platinum or gold were
generally used to give a matte appearance.
American pianist, composer and conductor Duke Ellington wearing a Tank à Guichets watch.
© F. Driggs Collection/Magnum Photos
Tank à Guichets wristwatch - Cartier Paris, 1928
Satined and polished gold case. Notched and flat winding crown at 12 o’clock. Leather strap, folding buckle in yellow and pink gold.
Time displayed through two apertures, Arabic numerals for the hours, chemin-de-fer chapter ring with every fifth numeral in Arabic numerals.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
1930S
1932
TANK BASCULANTE
I
n the design of pocket watches and wristwatches alike, watchmakers sought to protect
the fragile glass component. This concern became all the more prominent in the 1930s
as it became increasingly fashionable to play sports. The Tank Basculante watch created
in 1932 featured a case that pivoted lengthwise within an articulated framework; the integrated
winding mechanism was positioned at 12 o’clock. The time could be displayed or masked at
leisure. The Tank Basculante watch incorporated a complex design, based on a series of
drawings, upon a set of interlocking forms.
TANK ASYMÉTRIQUE (1936)
T
he Tank Asymétrique watch turned the aesthetic of the early days of watchmaking on
its head. The entire balance of the watch was shifted, with 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock
moving into the corners and the winding mechanism placed at 2 o’clock. The watch
may be taken to express the contradictions of an era, its aspirations for change or its rebellion
against set rules. The 1963 version was named the Tank Oblique.
Actor Gary Cooper wearing a Tank Basculante watch, circa 1940.
© Rue des Archives/RDA
Basculante reversible sliding watch - Cartier Paris, 1936
Cartier signature at 12 o’clock, France at 6 o’clock.
Satined and polished gold rectangular case pivoting about the 6 o’clock/12 o’clock axis within a satined and polished gold frame. Notched and flat
winding crown at 12 o’clock. Hooked lugs, leather strap, folding buckle in yellow and pink gold.
Rectangular grained silver dial, inner chemin-de-fer chapter ring. Blued-steel Poire hands.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
Tank Oblique wristwatch - Cartier London, 1963
Satined and polished gold case. Octagonal winding crown, one faceted sapphire. Leather strap, folding buckle in yellow and pink gold.
Cream-coloured lozenge dial, rotated 45 degrees, with alternating Arabic numerals. Blued-steel bâton hands.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
1940S
1940
T
he Tank watch acquired a prime position on the international stage with the growing
influence of the silver screen in the 1940s. Countless actors, writers and artists chose
to wear this watch, each in their own individual fashion, in a show of perfect elegance.
ClarkAstaire
Fred
Gable wearing a Tank watch.
© Photo
Image
ofDR/Sunset
Clark Gable
Boulevard
used with
Collection
permission of the Estate of Clark Gable.
© Collection Sunset Boulevard.
1950S
1952
TANK RECTANGLE (BROAD MODEL)
T
he Tank Rectangle (broad model) brought opulence to the
1950s in no uncertain terms. The generous forms of the
watch, boasting a gold dial to match the gold case, manifest
an unapologetically classic style.
American actor Stewart Granger wearing a gold Tank Cintrée watch featuring a strap with seven
interlocking rows, circa 1954.
© MGM/Sunset Boulevard Collection
Tank Rectangle wristwatch (broad model) - Cartier Paris, 1952
Manufactured by Jaeger. Cartier signature under 12 o’clock, Swiss Made under 6 o’clock.
Satined and polished gold case, polished gold brancards. Octagonal winding crown, one faceted sapphire. Leather strap, folding buckle in yellow and pink gold.
Rectangular satined gold dial with Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer chapter ring. Gold-plated bâton hands.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
1960S
1960
MINI TANK ALLONGÉE
T
he Tank watch underwent a makeover in the 1960s and
was given smaller, feminine cases. The dainty Tank Allongée
took pride of place, and the range expanded to include the
Mini Tank Louis Cartier. The brancards of the small Tank Allongée
and Mini Tank were set with diamonds, honouring the jewellery
variations embarked upon by Louis Cartier in the 1920s.
THE SMALL TANK
ALLONGÉE AND
MINI TANK WERE
SET WITH
DIAMONDS
Tank Allongée wristwatch - Cartier London, 1974
Cartier signature at 12 o’clock, London under 6 o’clock.
Satined and polished gold case, polished gold brancards. Beaded winding crown, one sapphire cabochon. Leather strap, ardillon buckle.
Cream rectangular dial with Roman numerals. Blued-steel bâton hands. Archived at Cartier under the name Elongated JJC Tank;
JJC are the initials of Jean-Jacques Cartier, son of Jacques Cartier.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
Tank Allongée wristwatch - Cartier London, 1974
Cartier signature at 12 o’clock, London under 6 o’clock.
Satined and polished gold case, polished gold brancards. Beaded winding crown, one sapphire cabochon. Leather strap, ardillon buckle.
Cream rectangular dial with Roman numerals. Blued-steel bâton hands.
Archived at Cartier under the name Elongated JJC Tank; JJC are the initials of Jean-Jacques Cartier, son of Jacques Cartier.
E. Sauvage © Cartier
Yves Montand and Simone Signoret on the beach at La Baule, 1959.
© Keystone-France
1970S
1977
TANK MUST DE CARTIER
VERMILION AND BURGUNDY DIAL
T
he 1970s saw Cartier infuse its timepiece collection with
modernity and elegance.
In 1972, the spotlight was placed on the Louis Cartier range
with new solid gold watches fitted with leather straps. In 1977,
at the height of Must de Cartier period, a new collection of vermilion
watches paid tribute to the form of the Tank Louis Cartier.
Solid dials stripped of numerals were steeped in understated tones,
evoking the precious materials of the world of jewellery: onyx,
coral, ivory, lapis lazuli, tortoiseshell and garnet. Yet in spite of
these exciting new choices of colours and materials, these pieces
remained faithful to the spirit of the Tank Louis Cartier watch.
In a final flourish of glittering refinement, the crown was adorned
with a sapphire cabochon. An instant hit all over the world,
this collection enjoyed unrivalled success.
Andy Warhol, serious collector of
Tank watches.
© Arnold Newman/Getty Images
Tank Must de Cartier wristwatch - Cartier, 1977
Must de Cartier signature at 12 o’clock, intertwined double C and Swiss at 6 o’clock.
Satined and polished vermilion case, polished vermilion brancards. Beaded winding crown, one blue spinel cabochon. Leather strap, folding buckle.
Rectangular coral-coloured lacquer dial. Gold bâton hands.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
Montre-bracelet Tank Must de Cartier - Cartier, 1977
Must de Cartier signature at 12 o’clock, intertwined double C and Swiss at 6 o’clock.
Satined and polished vermilion case, polished vermilion brancards. Beaded winding crown, one blue spinel cabochon. Leather strap, folding buckle.
Rectangular coral-coloured lacquer dial. Gold bâton hands.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
1980S
1980
TANK AMÉRICAINE
D
esigned in 1987 and launched in 1989, the Tank Américaine
watch followed in the footsteps of the Tank Cintrée,
borrowing its curved case while updating the design with
a more compact rectangular form and rounded brancards.
A wonder of watchmaking craft and style, this watch takes a playful
approach to geometry, alternately decisive and gentle, with straight
lines and curves, round edges and angles. The Tank Américaine
was the first Cartier watch to offer a curved water-resistant case.
This solid, generous watch is unapologetically beautiful. Another
feature was the new folding buckle that allowed the strap length
to be precisely adjusted to the wrist size, replacing the mechanism
employed by Cartier since 1910.
The power and elegance of its elongated, slightly arched form
made this watch a classic. In its display of strength, the piece may
be considered a tribute to the Tank watch presented to General
Pershing.
César wearing a Tank Américaine watch.
“I like wearing my Tank, I’d feel completely naked without it. This watch has a physical, sensual, and most importantly
tactile dimension. I’m always touching it, playing with it, without even looking at it, I look at it with my fingers.”
© Arnaud Baumann
Tank Américaine wristwatch - Cartier, 1993
Cartier signature under 12 o’clock, Swiss under 6 o’clock.
Curved satined gold case, satined and polished gold brancards, water-resistant to 30 metres. Octagonal winding crown, one faceted sapphire.
Leather strap, ardillon buckle.
White curved rectangular dial with Roman numerals, Cartier secret signature hidden in one stroke of the VII, inner chemin-de-fer chapter ring.
Blued-steel bâton hands.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
1990S
1996
TANK FRANÇAISE
T
he Tank Française watch, launched in 1996, updated
the classic Tank legacy of the parallel-set lateral
brancards, Roman numeral dial, chemin-de-fer
chapter ring, bâton hands, and a fluted winding crown
decorated with a sapphire cabochon. In a bold departure, the
curved case was set in a chain-link bracelet.
Featuring bevelled brancards, concave curved links and a curved
form, the case and bracelet blend into a single continuous entity,
seamlessly merging line, volume and material. The chosen finishes
toughen the lines of the watch, creating an all-new Tank.
The shape and corrugated edges of the bracelet recall the design
of the treads of armoured tanks.
As functional as it was stylish, boasting seamless lines, this
archetypal wristwatch was a true feat of design.
Setting phase on a Tank Française Rivière watch in the workshop, 1996.
© M. Feinberg/ABC
Tank Française wristwatch, small model - Cartier, 1995
Cartier signature under 12 o’clock, Swiss Made under 6 o’clock.
Curved satined and polished gold case, polished gold brancards, water-resistant to 30 metres. Octagonal winding crown, one sapphire cabochon.
Polished gold chain-link bracelet, triple folding buckle in yellow and pink gold.
Square grained silver dial with Roman numerals, Cartier secret signature hidden in one stroke of the X, inner chemin-de-fer chapter ring. Blued-steel bâton hands.
N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
"If all tanks were made by Cartier, we would have time to live in peace!” French designer
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s tribute to the Tank watch in Le Figaro Madame in 1994.
Tank Française wristwatch, small model - Cartier, 1995
Cartier signature under 12 o’clock, Swiss Made under 6 o’clock.
Curved satined and polished gold case, polished gold brancards, water-resistant to 30 metres. Octagonal winding crown, one sapphire cabochon.
Polished gold chain-link bracelet, triple folding buckle in yellow and pink gold.
Square grained silver dial with Roman numerals, Cartier secret signature hidden in one stroke of the X, inner chemin-de-fer chapter ring.
Blued-steel bâton hands.
E. Sauvage © Cartier
2000S
1910S
1910S
1917
1917
2002
BIRTH
BIRTHOFOFAALEGEND:
LEGEND:“TANK NORMALE” WATCH
“TANK NORMALE” WATCH
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hands.
Scratch-proof
sapphire
crystal.
Water-resistance:
30
metres
/is100
/by3 by
bars.
Breguet
Breguet
hands,
hands,
and
and
the the
beaded
beaded
winding
winding
crown
crown
is
set
is set
with
with
a sapphire
a and
sapphire
cabochon.
cabochon.
Combines
Combines
all the
all the
distinguishing
distinguishing
features
features
of the
of the
Tank.
Tank.
Self-winding
movement,
calibre
Cartier
120,
hours,
minutes
seconds
functions.
Cartier
Cartier
Archives
© Cartier
Cartier
© Cartier
J.L Archives
Drigout
©
Setting
Setting
phase
phase
on on
a Tank
a Tank
Divan
Divan
watch
watch
in the
in the
Cartier
Cartier
finefine
watchmaking
watchmaking
workshops,
workshops,
2003.
2003.
G. Nencioli
G. Nencioli
© Cartier
© Cartier
2012