Cartier article Status Magazine 2013

CARTIER
Grand
T
ILLUSION
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Now you see it. Now you don’t. It’s not magic, it’s Cartier.
he legendary maison first played the unusual
role of horological prestidigitator in 1912, when
Cartier unveiled the original mystery clock. It
mesmerized the public by creating the illusion
that the hour and minute hands were suspended in air,
levitating as they turned to indicate the time.
This beautiful deception is accomplished by placing each hand on clear discs that are stacked on top of
one another, like the layers of a cake. Kept out of sight
(behind the chapter ring) are the specially made gear
wheels that line the edge of each disc. They are responsible for rotating the discs so that the “floating” hands
indicate the current time.
In the century that followed, Cartier has continuously refined both the mechanics and aesthetics of the
design to create a rich history filled with ornate mystery
clocks. But this year, as the design entered its second
century, the mystery took an unexpected turn when Cartier introduced the first generation of mystery watches.
The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Double Tourbillon takes the original idea to a thrilling new place by appearing to suspend the tourbillon in the opening on the dial.
Cartier watchmakers worked several years to unravel this mechanical enigma, expanding on the
original mystery clock concept to create something
unprecedented. The result is a novel, hand-wound
movement that is made entirely in-house by Cartier and
certified with the Geneva Seal.
complication. The mystery unfolds before your eyes as
the flying tourbillon not only rotates once every 60 seconds — like a traditional tourbillon — but at the same
time turns so that it orbits the mystery dial once every
five minutes. These dual rotations with two tourbillon
cages are the reason this mechanism is called a double
tourbillon.
To complement this mechanical marvel, watchmakers have crafted a multi-layer dial that reflects the refined design code that unifies Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking Collection. A 45mm platinum case holds it all
together while a blue sapphire cabochon perched atop
the beaded crown adds a finishing touch.
SOLVING THE PUZZLE
Like a mystery clock, the Mysterious Double Tourbillon
utilizes sapphire crystal discs that are integrated into
the gears of the movement. As if by magic, energy generated when the mainspring unwinds travels through
the gear train and powers the first tourbillon cage —
which is actually the lower crystal disc — as well as the
titanium flying tourbillon cage, which is mounted on
the crystal disc above.
This highly technical process unlocks the stunning
visual performance at the heart of this extraordinary
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The tourbillon cage appears to float inside the Rotonde de
Cartier Mysterious Double Tourbillon. The flying tourbillon
not only rotates once every minute, but the entire mechanism also orbits the mystery dial once every five minutes.
A 45mm platinum case houses
the watch’s complex double
tourbillon movement, a Geneva
Seal-certified mechanism made
exclusively by Cartier.
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CARTIER
TREASURED SECRETS
A similar mechanical sleight of hand is
employed to conjure the Rotonde de
Cartier Mysterious Hours.
Determined to channel the spirit of
the original mystery clock, Cartier successfully adapted its design at the firm’s
manufacture in Geneva, where it modified
and miniaturized the complex machine so
that it now fits comfortably on the wrist.
The result is a manually wound movement that faithfully recreates the mystery
clock’s unconventional time display.
As part of this process, Cartier developed new ways to maximize the energy
produced by the movement by reducing
the amount of friction caused by the rotation of the large crystal discs used to
indicate the time. To further optimize
performance, the firm formed gear wheels
around the crystal discs through a highly
As if by magic, the hour and minute hands appear to
levitate in the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hours.
Available in rose or white gold, the 42mm case features
a blue sapphire cabochon on the beaded crown.
advanced micro-fabrication process
that’s used to make complex components
for micro-machines. As a result, the dimensions of the gear wheels are accurate
to the nearest micron, which reduces
their inertia.
Much of this revolutionary design is
kept out of sight, even when viewing the
crescent-shaped movement through the
clear caseback. This subterfuge is a fitting tribute to the company founder Louis Cartier, who preferred to keep the magic behind the mystery clock a secret. It’s
also a subtle reminder that the leadingedge technology found in the Rotonde de
Cartier Mysterious Hours is simply the
means to a beautiful end.
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LEAP FORWARD
A true mark of greatness is the ability to make the
incredible look effortless. This certainly applies to
the way Cartier’s design code naturally evokes timeless style. To appreciate this, look no further than
the Ballon Bleu collection. The case’s flowing outline
and striking blue sapphire crown form a potent
combination of visual hallmarks that make it easy
to understand the design’s immense popularity.
The firm emphasizes the watch’s technical
character with the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Tourbillon with Double Jumping Second Time Zone. As
the name makes clear, there is a great deal going on
mechanically inside the watch.
It’s rare that a flying tourbillon receives second
billing, but this dual-time zone function certainly
provides strong competition. Its modified regulatorstyle display adds to the intrigue. In a traditional
regulator, the hour, minute and second hands are
placed in separate locations on the dial. For this model, the central minute hand is used in conjunction
The 46mm Ballon Bleu de Cartier Tourbillon with
Double Jumping Second Time Zone includes a
C-shaped carriage above the flying tourbillon.
with two separate hour displays. The one with Roman numerals indicates the hour in the traveler’s
home city, while the other, with Arabic numerals,
shows the hour in the destination city.
But rather than being satisfied with this captivating configuration, Cartier goes one step further
by enhancing both hour displays with “jumping”
hands. Unlike most watch hands that advance incrementally, jumping displays snap forward in the
blink of an eye. Look closely through the apertures
in the openwork dial and you can see the jumping
mechanism in action. Those same openings also uncover the perlage that decorates the movement below. Despite the marvels of modern digital photography, it’s impossible to adequately capture its
shimmering radiance.
Production of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Tourbillon with Double Jumping Second Time Zone is
limited to 50 pieces each in rose and white gold.
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CARTIER
IMPECCABLE COMBINATION
Some combinations are so perfectly
matched that they’ll never go out of style.
Cartier puts the firm’s indelible stamp on
one of watchmaking’s classic pairings
with the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual
Calendar Chronograph.
These complications are natural
allies, due mainly to the fact that both
require multiple sub-dials to express
their information. And although it’s a
challenge to maintain legibility when
combining chronograph counters with
calendar displays, it’s one that Cartier
dispatches with its typical élan. The
resulting dial is well proportioned and
intuitive to read, not to mention visually
engaging thanks to the flowing lines of
guilloché below the openwork dial.
A newly designed automatic chronograph
movement powers the Rotonde de Cartier
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. The 42mm
case is available in either rose or white gold.
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The configuration conceals the complexity of the watch’s self-winding movement,
which is produced in-house by Cartier. It includes a column-wheel chronograph with a
vertical clutch, a superior design that eliminates the twitch — observed in the majority
of chronographs — that affects the seconds
hand when starting and stopping the stopwatch function. Equally impressive is the
perpetual calendar’s user-friendly operation,
which is aided by the trio of recessed correctors on the side of the case. These are used to
quickly re-set the calendar displays in the
event that the watch stops.
All of this technology and beauty slips
neatly into a 42mm case that’s available in
either white gold with a silvered dial or rose
gold with a brown dial.
advances the hour hand by one. For instance, if you flew from your home in Los
Angeles to New York City, you would push
the adjustor button three times when you
landed to compensate for jumping ahead
three time zones.
That change is also reflected on the
side of the case, where a window reveals
a rotating disc inscribed with the names
of 24 different cities, one for each of the
world’s major time zones. In fact, there
are two rows of cities listed. This special
feature allows the watch to account for
seasonal time changes. The top row is
used between November and March,
while the other row is referenced during
the other seven months.
The Tortue Multiple Time Zone is
equipped with an automatic movement
made in-house by Cartier and available
in either rose or white gold.
WORLDLY AND WISE
Cartier’s celebrated tortue case may be named
for the slow-footed turtle, but its latest incarnation is definitely made for someone who is
on the move.
The Tortue Multiple Time Zone delivers
one of the most elegant expressions of a world
time watch that you’re likely to find, thanks to
the case’s tailored lines and the “sea” of blue
lacquer that delineates the multi-level map at
the center of the dial.
When traveling, a retrograde hand — which
doubles as a day/night indicator — shows
the home time on a 12-hour arc. Meanwhile,
the central hour and minute hands show the
local time in the destination city. Adjusting
this display is surprisingly straightforward.
Pushing the button located above the crown
The Tortue Multiple Time Zone not only indicates the
hours in two different time zones simultaneously, but
also has the ability to account for seasonal time changes.
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CARTIER
GOING STRONG
The broad shoulders of the Calibre de
Cartier case have carried the firm’s message of masculine style with a sporty
edge since it debuted in 2010. This year,
Cartier introduced a new dimension to
the potent design with the addition of a
chronograph movement that is made entirely at its state-of-the-art manufacture.
To power the Calibre de Cartier
Chronograph, the firm enlisted a column-wheel chronograph movement that’s
found in several men’s models, including
the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. In fact, Caliber 1904CH MC is so popular that Cartier watchmakers have dubbed it “The Module.”
In the world of chronographs, column-wheel designs occupy
a special place. They require a great deal more time to produce, but
the extra effort ensures a highly precise and robust mechanism.
Cartier added other performance enhancements to the movement,
including a vertical clutch that improves energy efficiency and ensures the watch does not exhibit the fluttering seconds hand typical in
most chronographs.
Beyond its superior mechanics, the Calibre de Cartier Chronograph is a truly handsome timepiece both inside and out. Dedicated
artisans finish the automatic movement by hand, including the traditional côtes de Genève decoration that adorns the bridges and winding
rotor, both of which are visible through the clear caseback.
Its 42mm round case continues the Calibre de Cartier collection’s
aesthetic code, which is defined by contrasting metal finishes. Several
variations were unveiled this year to inaugurate the Calibre de Cartier
Chronograph collection. Among the standouts are models in rose gold
and stainless steel, as well as one design that features both metals.
The Calibre de Cartier Chronograph
introduces a new complication to the
firm’s line of sports watches. The 42mm
case, which comes in a variety of metal
combinations, is equipped with Cartier’s
column-wheel chronograph movement.
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Following its debut last year, the
Tank Anglaise collection expands its
palette with new, alligator-skin straps in
bold colors, like fuchsia pink and aubergine purple. These fresh hues complement the watch’s distinctive case, which
seamlessly incorporates the crown into
the vertical bar on the right side of the
case. Available in a range of sizes, the
Tank Anglaise comes in yellow, white or
rose gold and can be set with rows of
diamond pavé.
Through the refined elegance of these
designs for ladies, along with its technical achievements in the realm of men’s
watches, Cartier proves that its hardearned success is no illusion. ¨
The Tank Américaine shows
off a new bracelet design with
smooth metal scales made to look
like snakeskin. The bracelet is
offered in white or rose gold and
can be set with diamond pavé.
SHAPING THE FUTURE
Among its countless gifts as a watchmaker, Cartier is supremely
adept at eliciting strong emotional responses through its masterful
use of shaped cases, from the oval Baignoire to the amorphous
Crash watch. High atop this list sits the ever-popular Tank. The power of this classic design stems partly from its flexibility, which has
inspired several interpretations over nearly a century. And while
they all exhibit their own individual personality, none has altered
the integrity of the original design.
The list grows again this year as Cartier introduces new members
of the Tank Américaine and Tank Anglaise families.
First is the Tank Américaine, which is instantly recognizable
by the rectangular outline and gently curved profile of its case, a
sleek design that comes in a range of sizes that can be decorated
with diamonds. The Tank Américaine now charms with a new snakelike bracelet that wraps its smooth scales around the wrist. This
serpent-skin motif is available in white or rose gold versions, both
of which can be set with diamond pavé.
Alligator-skin straps in stunning
new colors enliven the Tank Anglaise
collection. Here, a glossy fuchsiacolored strap is paired with a white
gold case set with diamonds.
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