Cartier article Status Magazine 2014

CARTIER
Upon request, a lapis lazuli disc
emerges from behind the dial to
cover the tourbillon and recreate the
current lunar phase. Production of
the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and
Moon is limited to just 50 pieces.
Fly Me To The MOON
Cartier shines with a rare combination of watchmaking artistry
and aptitude that comes along once in a blue moon.
BY SCOTT HICKEY
T
he celebrated Parisian firm introduced one of the
year’s most intriguing watches with the Rotonde de
Cartier Earth and Moon. A marvel both inside and
out, this limited edition (50 pieces) strikes an ideal
balance between the brand’s technical expertise and its inimitable style.
Lapis lazuli provides a vibrant blue backdrop against
the white gold that forms the layered dial. The Cartier aesthetic figures prominently throughout as exhibited by the
Roman numerals stretching out around the chermin de fer
(rail-track) minute scale that circles the stylized globe at the
top of the dial. Nestled inside is a rotating 24-hour display
for the watch’s GMT function, which is advanced by pushing the top button on the side of the 47mm platinum case.
The other button controls the timepiece’s signature feature — an on-demand moon phase indicator. The brand’s
new in-house movement tracks the lunar cycle internally,
but only displays it when requested. That alone qualifies as
an impressive horological feat. Cartier being Cartier, however, found a way to push the boundaries even further.
Fully in keeping with the brand’s unconventional take
on this traditional astronomical complication, the rotating
disc normally used to indicate the moon’s phases has been
replaced by a spinning tourbillon. But how does it work?
When the button is pushed, a lapis lazuli disc swings out
from behind the numeral IIII and in front of the tourbillon
to precisely recreate the shape of the illuminated moon in
the night sky.
The view of the Cartier-made movement is equally impressive. The bridges are sculpted to form an intricate web
that looks like stars twinkling around jewel bearings. That
celestial aura is amplified by the extensive hand finishing,
which produces a brilliant show when light bounces off the
multitude of beveled edges.
Produced exclusively by Cartier, this beautifully finished
movement includes a tourbillon, on-demand moon
phase indicator and a second time zone function.
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CARTIER
CIRCULAR TIME
At the same time that Cartier is taking the moon
phase display to new heights, it’s also shaking up
another classic complication with its groundbreaking reinterpretation of the perpetual calendar in the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire.
The display encompasses three concentric
circles centered around a flying tourbillon cage.
Each circle represents a different aspect of the
calendar, starting with the day on the innermost
ring, then the month and finally the date on the
outside. Each tier features a blue window-shaped
hand that highlights the pertinent calendar information. In addition to being distinctive aesthetically, the arrangement is more conducive to rapid
readability than the relatively small sub-dials
typically used for perpetual calendar watches.
Conceived and produced by Cartier, the movement that makes the Astrocalendaire’s concentric
display possible also includes a number of performance enhancements designed to improve the
experience of owning a perpetual calendar. Without a doubt, perpetual calendars are amazing
machines that diligently calculate the irregular
lengths of months and leap years. However, one
must be careful when adjusting the calendar,
because a correction made late in the evening can
damage the caliber.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire’s unconventional perpetual
calendar display uses concentric circles that surround the flying
tourbillon. This limited edition (100 pieces) is available in a 42mm
platinum case.
The Astrocalendaire’s movement avoids this troublesome
issue by using a gear train-based calendar system instead of
one that relies on springs and levers. This allows the watch to be
adjusted at any time — forward or backward — using the crown
instead of the tiny corrector buttons on most perpetuals. This
particular feature will come as great relief to anyone who’s ever
accidentally gone past the date when adjusting their perpetual.
When that happens, the best way to get your watch back on
track is to let it wind down so the actual date can catch up to the
date on your watch.
Presented in a 45mm platinum case, the Rotonde de Cartier
Astrocalendaire will be offered in a limited series of 100 numbered pieces.
The white gold case of the Tank Louis
Cartier Sapphire Skeleton forms a
rectangular frame (30 x 39.2mm)
around the minimalist movement.
The Roman numeral-shaped movement is black with gold edges that
match the Tank MC Two-Tone Skeleton’s rose gold case (34.5 x 43.8mm).
The titanium case (38.7 x 47.4mm)
is coated with black ADLC, giving
the Santos-Dumont Skeleton
Carbon a bold, modern look.
DECORATIVE ARTS
Skeleton movements are the horological equivalent of a fine
minimalist sculpture where all the superfluous elements have
been removed to reveal the artwork’s essential nature. Cartier’s adept artisans excel at carving the metal plates and bridges of a watch movement into dynamic forms that double as the
timepiece’s aesthetic and structural foundation.
The Tank Louis Cartier Sapphire Skeleton provides a
vivid example of the maison’s deft mastery of this rare art
form. The angles of the white gold case offer a geometric
counterpoint to the circular bridge and round components
contained within. To achieve this impossibly airy abstract
design, Cartier uses a plate made from transparent sapphire crystal to give the movement additional strength. Using clear material as a structural element is nothing new for
the brand. In fact, Louis Cartier used transparent discs to
create the original mystery clock more than 100 years ago.
The Tank MC Two-Tone Skeleton adopts an angular
theme for its sculpted movement. The firm’s familiar Roman
numerals are rendered in black with a brushed finish, which
is balanced by the polished rose gold edges that outline the
display. The subtle addition makes the whole design pop visually and also complements the shapely proportions of the
Tank MC case.
In contrast, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Carbon
radiates a decidedly more technical style than either of the
aforementioned timepieces. Inspired by a watch Cartier
made in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the square
case is crafted from titanium and coated with black ADLC, a
material that is virtually impervious to scratches. Crafted
entirely by Cartier, the movement’s skeletonized bridges
form Roman numerals that have been rhodium plated to
project a refined, anthracite sheen.
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CARTIER
SIZABLE ACHIEVEMENTS
This year Cartier expanded its offerings in the round Rotonde de
Cartier case with the Small Complications collection, a savvy new line
that focuses on functionality.
The first is the Rotonde de
Cartier Second Time Zone. It
comes with a classic silvered guilloché dial in a 42mm case and is
available in either rose gold or
stainless steel. The brand will also
offer a limited edition version (200
pieces) in a white gold case paired
with a dapper blue dial.
Produced by Cartier, the watch’s
automatic movement includes a
novel interpretation of the second
time zone function. Rather than use
a traditional round display or a
GMT hand, designers instead chose
a 12-hour retrograde-style display.
The sun or moon depicted in the
window at 3 o’clock ensures that
the wearer knows if it’s a.m. or p.m.
in the second time zone. Set with a
blue cabochon, the crown is also a
pusher that advances the retrograde hand.
The other model included in the
new Small Complications collection
is the Rotonde de Cartier Power
Reserve. It too comes with a silvered guilloché dial, but in a slightly
smaller case (40mm) that’s also
available in either rose gold or steel.
Additionally, a white gold version
with an elegant gray guilloché dial
will be produced in a limited run of
200 pieces.
The watch is equipped with a
manually wound movement that’s
finished exquisitely with traditional decorative techniques indicative
of fine Swiss watchmaking. In terms
of function, the watch includes a
date aperture near the top of the
dial and a réserve de marche gauge
near that bottom that indicates the
status of the 40-hour power reserve.
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Left: This white gold
Rotonde de Cartier Power
Reserve is a limited edition
of 200 pieces.
Above & left: A retrograde-style display is
employed for the Rotonde
de Cartier Second Time
Zone’s signature function.
The white dial is offered
in either a steel (shown)
or rose gold case. The
white gold version with
a blue dial is a limited
edition of 200 pieces.
The Calibre de Cartier Diver combines the
safety features of a true dive watch with
the style you expect from Cartier. The
42mm case comes in steel, rose gold, or
a version that combines both metals.
UNDERWATER OVERACHIEVER
Swimming against a strong tide of expectation, Cartier defied conventional wisdom this year and conquered a new
frontier with its first dive watch. The Calibre de Cartier
Diver combines style with safety in a rugged timepiece that
epitomizes amphibious chic.
Make no mistake, this watch was designed to perform
at a high level in an extremely harsh environment. Water
resistant to 300 meters, the Diver meets or exceeds the strict
international standards required for all dive watches. The
ADLC-coated bezel used to measure your dive time only
turns in one direction, making it impossible to overestimate
how much air is left in your oxygen tanks. And when the
bezel turns, it clicks loud enough that you can hear it underwater to ensure you know it’s moving.
Another important safety feature is the luminous material
applied to the bezel and hour markers, which ensures that the
watch is legible even in the darkest waters. For added protection, the small seconds display is luminous as well, which allows a diver to quickly see if the watch is running. In fact, one
of the coolest things about this watch can only be seen in the
dark. With the lights out, the large Roman XII glows brightly,
a clear reminder that the watch on your wrist is a Cartier.
Thankfully, function doesn’t trump form in the Calibre
de Cartier Diver. The 42mm case is just 11mm thick, which
is unusually svelte for a true dive watch and certainly
enhances its wearability on land.
Cartier offers three versions: A dressy rose gold model,
a sporty stainless steel edition and a stylish hybrid that
mixes steel with rose gold highlights. Each one comes on a
hypoallergenic, black rubber strap that is lightweight and
comfortable. In addition, Cartier also offers bracelets that
match the steel and bi-color models.
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CARTIER
REFINED BRILLIANCE
Cartier embodies the notion that fashion fades, but style
lives on forever with jewelry and watch creations that
have defined timeless elegance for more than 150 years.
The new Ballon Blanc de Cartier collection takes
its inspiration from the same spirit of sophisticated
style by combining the brand’s recognizable design
codes in a watch that dazzles with a spectacular bracelet that features more than 9 carats of bezel-set
diamonds.
Available in either white or rose gold, the 30mm
pebble-shaped case is reminiscent of the Ballon Bleu.
Unlike its cousin, however, the Ballon Blanc de Cartier
uses a diamond to decorate the crown, which has been
shifted to the 4 o’clock position. Even more diamonds
cover the bezel, which circles the mother-of-pearl flinqué
dial and blued-steel sword-shaped hands.
Also available in rose gold, the Ballon Blanc de Cartier
has glamour to spare thanks to an incredible bracelet
that boasts a gleaming constellation of bezel-set
diamonds.
The firm expands its wildly popular
Ballon Bleu de Cartier collection this year
with two gem-set, bi-color models that put a
fresh spin on this modern-day classic. Both
versions accentuate the beautiful juxtaposition created by pairing warm rose gold with
cool stainless steel.
The first is presented in a 36mm case
and is powered by an automatic movement.
Brilliant-cut diamonds cover the rose gold
bezel and are used as hour markers on the
guilloché dial. A mix of polished and satin
finishes gives the gold and steel bracelet a
dynamic look. The next model is similar, but
with a few key distinctions. Its case is smaller at 33mm and comes on a steel bracelet.
Another difference is the dial, which uses
Roman numerals to indicate the hours.
Automatic-winding movements power both of
these steel and rose gold Ballon Bleu de Cartiers.
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Newly redesigned, Cartier’s famed Tortue case is available in
white or rose gold and can be set with diamonds. The flexible
bracelet is composed of flat links that glow with a satin finish.
ART FORM
Among the maison’s most significant contributions to watchmaking has been its
successful expansion of the idiom’s visual
vocabulary with beautiful shapes. From
the angular Tank and oval Baignoire to the
surrealistic Crash, the brand has never
shied away from redefining the idea of
what a watch can look like.
One shape in particular has an especially rich history. Round cases were the
norm in 1912 when Louis Cartier unveiled
the Tortue, a tortoise shell-inspired design that helped set watches free from the
confining circular form. Cartier revisits
that trailblazing shape this year with a
newly redesigned Tortue. The curvilinear
outline remains, but the soft, rounded profile of the past has been replaced with a
crisp edge that projects a more contemporary character.
The medium-sized Tortue case (39 x
31mm) is offered in either white or rose
gold, and its bezel can be set with brilliant-cut diamonds (1.5 carats). Light
dances on the dial’s undulating waves of
fine guilloché, which is bound at the edge
by Roman numerals. The brand’s signature style informs the overall look, including the gorgeous bracelet. Exquisite finishing ensures its flat links feel soft
against the skin as they wrap the wrist in
a precious-metal embrace. ¨
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