sihh 2015 daring creativity

Transcription

SIHH 2015
DARING CREATIVITY
It is as an artist and craftsman that Cartier has approached the creation of watches for the 2015 edition of the Salon International
de la Haute Horlogerie.
How can the three most prestigious Fine Watchmaking complications be combined within one extra-flat self-winding movement
of only 5.49 mm? How can the amplitude of a tourbillon’s rotation be showcased and minimalist skeletonising be used to reveal
the concealed part? What jewellery style should be given to the first feminine day/night complication? Is it possible, on a watch,
to transform the centuries-old technique of filigree, an artistic craft practised by Portuguese goldsmiths, using precious materials?
Such are the questions of style and technique that Cartier’s master watchmakers resolve in a show of daring and expertise,
drawing on the array of craftsmanship of a Maison oriented towards challenges and innovation.
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fine watchmaking collection
Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication watch
p.03
Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon Skeleton watch
p.09
Crash Skeleton watch
p.13
Rotonde de Cartier Reversed Tourbillon watch
p.17
Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar watch
p.21
Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Double Tourbillon watch
p.25
Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton Sapphire watch
p.27
rêves de panthères day/night complication
p.29
ballon bleu de cartier vibrating setting
p.32
metiers d’art watch collection
Ronde Louis Cartier watch-Filigree Panthers Motif
p.35
Tortue watch-Panther Stone Mosaic Motif
p.37
Rotonde de Cartier watch-Damascene
p.38
Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch-Granulation and Engraved Mother-of-Pearl
p.39
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T H E M OST C OMP LE X
OF A L L C ART IE R WAT C HE S
ROTONDE DE CARTIER GRANDE COMPLICATION WATCH CALIBRE 9406 MC
Laziz Hamani © Cartier
The Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication watch is an incredible feat of watchmaking. 578 components, 5 years of
development, 15 weeks of production at the Manufacture, 10 weeks of decorating and finishing and 5 weeks of assembly. The
result is measured in millimetres. A thickness of 5.49 mm for a self-winding mechanical movement that brings together three
of the most prestigious Fine Watchmaking complications: a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon.
Of all Cartier watchmaking creations, this timepiece is the most complex. Equipped with the self-winding calibre
9406 MC, this “Poinçon de Genève”-certified timepiece combines the elegance of a platinum case with the excellence of
an extra-flat skeleton movement.
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Three complications for a major challenge
Combining the mechanisms of a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and a flying tourbillon requires unique expertise
at the crossroads of several different crafts. The Manufacture’s watchmakers devoted themselves to the design of a
rich and pure chime, to the analysis of comprehensive time measurement and to the quest for perfect timekeeping.
The minute repeater: a visible, clear and precious sound
The minute repeater function is considered one of the most prestigious complications in Fine Watchmaking: behind
its magic and its complexity it transports the reading of time into the world of sound and enables the wearer to hear
the time on demand.
Cartier focused its ultra-creative passion for watchmaking on the calibre 9406 MC’s minute repeater, endowing
it with two remarkable features. On the one hand, the minute repeater is prominently displayed on the dial, with
gongs and hammers in full view. On the other, its inertia fly-wheel is freed of its upper bridge, making it truly “fly”.
These two creative elements are complemented by a technical approach that involved adopting the type of watchmaking
mechanism known as “all or nothing”. This essential development makes it possible to avoid partial activation of the
minute repeater, thus avoiding an inaccurate acoustic indication of the time.
The technical knowledge acquired by Cartier watchmakers, including most notably the study of acoustic harmonics
and tonalities, has allowed them to combine the nobility of a platinum case with the richness of a unique sound that
is at once clear and precise, pure and soft.
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The flying tourbillon: between gravity and lightness
The flying tourbillon on the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication watch is located at 12 o’clock and represents
a signature feature thanks to the delicacy of its design.
From a technical point of view, this tourbillon boasts a titanium carriage that, thanks to its lightness, optimises
timekeeping by countering the effects of gravity.
From an aesthetic point of view, the complete absence of the upper bridge enhances the rotation of the calibre 9406
MC’s “flying”» tourbillon.
The perpetual calendar: requires setting once every 100 years
This complication indicates the date, automatically recognising not only whether a month has 30 or 31 days, but also
the month of February - even in leap years, which occur once every four years.
Taking into account both calendar and astronomical time, this calendar is designed to provide for the lag inherent in
the Gregorian calendar, which dictates that a year contains 365.25 days. It therefore requires adjustment once every
four years, whereas the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication watch only needs adjusting once every 100 years.
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The specific features of an extraordinary watch
A play of transparency
The Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication watch plays with transparency in a myriad of different ways, thanks
to its precious openwork dial in 18-carat gold and its masterfully skeletonised movement.
The skeletonisation of the calibre 9406 MC allows the observer to measure the beauty and complexity of this prestigious
movement, on which the minute repeater, perpetual calendar and flying tourbillon are fully apparent.
These three complications contain a significant number of skeletonised components, an aesthetic approach that is
especially challenging at the level of excellence required to obtain the “Poinçon de Genève”. On this movement, the
chamfering on the bridges, the drawing on the flanks, the setting of the jewels and the polishing on the countersinks
is even more important as they are immediately visible.
As for the openwork dial, it forms a harmonious arrangement of the three grand complications, displaying the
perpetual calendar’s counters (the date, days, months and years), the flying tourbillon and the minute repeater’s gongs
and hammers.
The minimal dimensions of an exceptional calibre
With a thickness of 5.49 mm, the calibre 9406 MC boasts incredible fineness and elegance, making the technical
prowess of is composition all the more exceptional.
Cartier’s watchmakers revisited the interactions of these three complications watch so that the gear trains and racks,
star-wheels and snails are housed in a space of just a few millimetres, designed with a thorough, inventive and creative
approach to watchmaking.
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High-speed self-winding
The calibre 9406 MC gets its energy from a platinum micro-rotor with “guilloché” and “Côtes de Genève” finishing. The
innovative construction of this two-level micro-rotor enables a reduction in winding speed while limiting energy loss.
The prestigious “Poinçon de Genève”
The Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication watch is certified “Poinçon de Genève”. The self-winding calibre 9406
MC is assembled and set in the Maison’s Fine Watchmaking workshops, which are located in Geneva, just above the
Cartier boutique at 35 rue du Rhône. Its finishes have been executed according to the standards of excellence set
down by this celebrated seal of watchmaking quality.
From its design to its final assembly, the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication is the ultimate expression of
exceptional craftsmanship perfected by Cartier’s master watchmakers.
By combining the three most prestigious Fine Watchmaking complications in an extra-flat self-winding movement,
and by making this technical prowess visible with incredibly fine skeletonisation, Cartier reaffirms its leading role as
a creator of watches boasting ambition and excellence.
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Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton watch
Minute repeater, flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, skeleton,
self-winding calibre 9406 MC, certified “Poinçon de Genève”
45 mm case in 950‰ platinum
Beaded crown in 950‰ platinum set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Baton-shaped, apple and hammer hands in blued steel
Black alligator skin strap
Double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Case thickness: 12.6 mm
Crystal and case back in sapphire
Water-resistant to 3 bar (~30 metres)
Self-winding mechanical Manufacture movement, calibre 9406 MC.
Minute repeater, flying tourbillon
and perpetual calendar complications, skeleton
578 parts including 47 jewels
Casing-up diameter: 15 ½ lines, i.e. 35 mm
Total diameter: 39.3 mm
Movement thickness: 5.49 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations / hour
Power reserve approximately 50 hours
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A WEIGHTLESS ROTATION
ROTONDE DE CARTIER
ASTROTOURBILLON SKELETON WATCH CALIBRE 9461 MC
Created by Cartier in 2010, the Astrotourbillon has been the subject of a great deal of watchmaking research
since its very conception. Thanks to this watch with its spectacular dial, it today stands as one of the emblematic
watchmaking complications of the Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection.
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The creation and evolution of the Astrotourbillon
In 2010, Cartier offered a new vision of traditional tourbillon design with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon
watch. For the first time, this complication was no longer limited solely to its function, which consists of guaranteeing
better timekeeping and reducing the effects of gravity, but instead was fully incorporated into the aesthetics of the
watch. Indeed, unlike classic tourbillons which rotate around their own axis, the Astrotourbillon is distinguished by its
elongated cage that enables the balance to make a complete circle of the dial in a minute, thus marking the seconds
and evoking a star.
In 2012, on the back of research led by the innovation programme responsible for the ID One and ID Two concept
watches, which explore, among other areas, the performance of materials never before seen in watchmaking, Cartier
decided to use carbon crystal for the Astrotourbillon, thus making it the first Cartier movement available for purchase
to benefit from this incredible technical advancement.
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2014: The very essence of the Astrotourbillon
It is as a sculptor of shapes that Cartier has approached this new interpretation of the Astrotourbillon. Entirely laid
bare, disentangled from all other mechanisms in order to move into the foreground, it has been entirely rethought
and created according to the strictest rules of proportion, harmony and balance. Behind lies an aesthetic intention, a
daring creative stance that aims to highlight the movement’s structure so that it “disappears” behind the imposing
XII and VI on the dial – a true Cartier signature. Freeing up this space allowed the Maison’s watchmakers to showcase
the Astrotourbillon in all its majesty and increase the amplitude of its rotation.
The XII and the VI: a Cartier watchmaking signature
Entirely skeletonised, the main plate of the 9461 MC movement rests on just these two Roman numerals. In this unique
architecture, these bridges powerfully structure the calibre, defining its appearance and supporting the construction.
A weightless rotation for the Astrotourbillon.
This architecture is aerial both in terms of its structure and its tourbillon cage. In fact, its elongated form enlarges
the amplitude of its trajectory and evokes a celestial body travelling through space. At the crossroads of technical
progress and a daring artistic vision, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon Skeleton watch embodies the Maison’s
ambitions: at once creative and innovative, from both a technical and aesthetic perspective, it is at the heart of the
great challenges met by Cartier Fine Watchmaking. Today it has accomplished the double feat of reducing the
movement to an almost sculptural form and generously enlarging the orbital trajectory of this unique complication:
the Astrotourbillon.
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Rotonde de Cartier
Astrotourbillon Skeleton watch
47 mm case in 18-carat white gold
Beaded crown set with a sapphire cabochon
Sword-shaped hands in blued steel
Black alligator-skin strap
Double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Sapphire case back
Limited series of 100 numbered pieces
Calibre 9461 MC
Mechanical Manufacture movement with manual winding 9461 MC
Astrotourbillon complication with rotation of the cage in one minute
233 parts, including 23 jewels
Casing-up diameter: 16¾ lignes, i.e. 38 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve of approximately 48 hours.
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CARTIER: A SCULPTOR
OF MOVEMENTS
THE CRASH SKELETON WATCH, CALIBRE 9618 MC
1967: The year that a legend entered Cartier’s watchmaking repertoire with the accidental and joyous appearance
of the Crash watch.
2014: With the Crash skeleton watch, Cartier creates one of its first shaped movements: the calibre 9618 MC,
the first of the Mechanical Legends. The collection meets a doubly high standard by regarding shape as the common
denominator between the case and its movement.
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The birth of a legend
Created in 1967 in Swinging London, the Crash watch expresses the sparkling, carefree spirit of an era that was all
about complete freedom. The unlikely design of this watch could only have been conceived by Cartier, the great maker
of shaped watches. Passionate and in touch with the spirit of the times, it sought to create a unique watch that would
capture the joyous burst of rebellion and pop culture that shook up the conformism of the time.
How was it really created? A client entrusted a damaged Cartier watch to the head of the London subsidiary. Immediately
captivated by this never-before-seen design, he decided to incorporate its folly into the vocabulary of Cartier’s watch
shapes. With its asymmetrical dial, the Crash watch very soon became a collector’s watch, produced in very limited
editions. Its shape became legendary and its name was argued over by an informed elite for whom it represented
a seventies underground icon. The legend took hold.
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In the name of creative freedom
Today, it is not simply the case that Cartier has subjected to radical transformations, but the entire movement which
finds itself transformed, “crashed” in order to sit within the concave form of the case.
As a sculptor of shapes, Cartier used this watchmaking material to model it: the constraints both served as the guide
and offered resistance, they were the source of discoveries. The entire movement was rethought. Pushing technical
prowess and achievement yet further, the dial is completely skeletonised, covered with oversized Roman numerals that
reveal the movement beneath. They provide the support for the calibre.
This aesthetic choice firmly places this watch in the world of Fine Watchmaking because the skeletonised movement
ranks among the most emblematic complications. Through the transparent case back, the gear trains of the
calibre 9618 MC with manual winding can be admired.
Fine Watchmaking and controlled extravagance
The calibre 9618 MC is not a traditional movement that has simply been modified to adjust to the shape of the case.
It was designed from the outset as an openwork movement, conceived by watchmakers to achieve the best effect in
terms of arrangement and aesthetics. The result is spectacular. The plates are sculpted and the entire movement has
become the watch’s dial.
Due to its design and the skeletonising of the plates, the movement displays a large number of surfaces. On the
Crash skeleton watch, all these surfaces have benefited from a Fine Watchmaking finish: satin-finishing of the steel
components, and Roman numerals with chamfered and polished flanks.
By adapting the arrangement of the Crash skeleton watch’s movement to its case, Cartier reaffirms its identity as an
artist and creator. Its ever pioneering daring and freedom surpass and enhance the scope for expression of its Fine
Watchmaking creations.
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Crash skeleton watch
Skeletonised bridges forming Roman numerals,
calibre 9618 MC
Case: 950/1000 platinum
Dimensions: 28.15 mm x 45.32 mm
Crown: beaded crown in 950/1000 platinum set
with a blue cabochon sapphire
Crystal: mineral glass
Case back: sapphire
Hands: blued-steel, sword-shaped
Strap: grey alligator skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding clasp
in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 3 bar (~30 metres)
Mechanical Manufacture movement with manual winding,
calibre 9618 MC, hours and minutes complication
with skeletonised bridges forming Roman numerals
Casing-up dimensions: 17¼ lines x 9½ lines, 37.9 mm x 20.2 mm
Total dimensions: 38.5 mm x 21.2 mm
Thickness: 3.97 mm
Number of jewels: 20
Number of parts: 138
Balance: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 3 days
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FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION
FOR A WATCH WITH STYLE
ROTONDE DE CARTIER REVERSED TOURBILLON WATCH, CALIBRE 9458 MC
Make a clean break with the past to give total freedom to new ideas and develop them: for Cartier, Fine Watchmaking
is pure exploration, with each creation a blank page in its own right.
The originality of this mode of expression is captured in the Rotonde de Cartier Reversed Tourbillon watch
with mystery and the perfect mastery of the space contained within the dial which showcases its reversed tourbillon.
By freeing up the space on the dial, by limiting the functions to just the hours, minutes and seconds, by concentrating
the calibre beneath minimalist bridges, Cartier’s watchmakers have enabled the flying tourbillon to be majestically
displayed, creating, with the Rotonde de Cartier Reversed Tourbillon watch calibre 9458 MC, a radiant and graphic
timepiece with incredible aesthetic power.
The challenge surrounding the form as well as the content of the watch led Cartier to condense the movement into
the narrow space provided by the bridges.
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A burst of radiance
The luminous dial of the Rotonde de Cartier Reversed Tourbillon watch upholds the tradition of guilloché work,
of which the radiating motif is one of the Maison’s great signatures.
Ever since Pierre Cartier’s first journeys to Russia and the discovery of Fabergé’s creations, guilloché work has been
carried out at the Cartier workshops. The metal is engraved with lines and dots, creating a geometric design. It can
then be enamelled or left unadorned. At Cartier, the inspiration for guilloché work draws on a variety of motifs: rays
engraved from a central point for dials, frames and small clocks and moiré or scale motifs for desk sets and pens.
For the Rotonde de Cartier Reversed Tourbillon watch, Cartier has combined sunray guilloché with the shine
of white gold. This is an inspired combination because non-rhodium-finished white gold is a wonderful source of light.
The graphic motif thereby radiates all the more, creating an array of beams of light. Depending on the position
of the dial, the rays capture and enhance the reflections in a broad range of sparkling colours.
The eye immediately understands the hierarchy of different ways to read the dial because within the case of this
Rotonde de Cartier watch everything makes sense. The radiance of the guilloché, the sophisticated arrangement of
the flying tourbillon and the bridges, the half-curve of the seconds aperture and the signature presence of blued-steel
hands that complete the ensemble.
Fully mastered, the refined space of the dial stripped of numerals boasts a range of signature Cartier features: a
Rotonde de Cartier case that is today the emblematic shape of the Maison’s Fine Watchmaking creations, a cabochon
sapphire on the winding crown, the Cartier C indicating the seconds numeral.
To reinforce the dial’s graphic identity and enhance the perspective of the guilloché, the dial is arranged off centre,
proving that watchmakers are not slaves to symmetry. Thus, nestled in the hollow of the seconds aperture, the flying
tourbillon, the centre of this entire composition, beats like a heart.
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Liberty under strict surveillance
Whether it is a tour de force or a demonstration of elegance, this Reversed Tourbillon calibre, carefully developed
in the Cartier Manufacture’s workshops, displays all the symbols of a watchmaking tradition with an established
and renewed heritage.
Cartier chooses to reveal to the eye what often remains hidden. This construction is both aesthetic and very technical
and led the watchmakers to pay particular attention to the finishing of its 167 components. As for all Fine Watchmaking
movements at Cartier, the component parts making up this mechanical movement with manual winding, equipped
with a 52-hour power reserve, are all hand-finished.
Each of the movement’s parts received a specific finish: chamfering on the bridges, drawn flanks, polished screw heads
and Côte de Genève decoration, the parallel ridges of which echo the guilloché on the dial. This array of highly
regulated finishes that meet the criteria for obtaining the “Poinçon de Genève” are a testament to careful work
carried out with respect for tradition.
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Rotonde de Cartier Reversed Tourbillon watch
Flying Tourbillon, calibre 9458 MC.
Certified “Poinçon de Genève” watch.
© Cartier
Case: 18-carat white gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Crown: beaded crown in 18-carat white gold set
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Hands: blued-steel, sword-shaped
Strap: black alligator skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding clasp in 18-carat white gold
Mechanical Manufacture movement
with manual winding,
calibre 9458 MC, flying tourbillon
Casing-up diameter: 16¾ lines, i.e. 38 mm
Total diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 5.58 mm
Balance: 21,600 vibrations / hour
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours
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FOR A NEW VISION
OF THE ANNUAL CALENDAR:
KEEPING IT SIMPLE
ROTONDE DE CARTIER ANNUAL CALENDAR WATCH CALIBRE 9908 MC
Designed to offer watch lovers a complication featuring optimal functionality, the Rotonde de Cartier Annual
Calendar watch calibre 9908 MC is the expression of a new balance between tradition and modernity - the signature
of the Cartier Manufacture.
This complication prioritises readability and operation because the movement requires setting just once a year.
Thanks to the innovative construction of its contemporary display, the calibre 9908 MC of the Rotonde de Cartier
watch offers a new approach to the annual calendar, a complication that has been part of the Cartier repertoire
since 2012.
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The elegance of simplicity
For the Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar watch, Cartier chose to incorporate a mechanism directly into
the plate of the calibre 1904 MC.
Traditionally, a basic calendar, in other words a mechanism that displays the date via an aperture or the tip of a hand,
must be manually adjusted at the end of every month. While simple to carry out, this adjustment is nonetheless tedious
and is frequently forgotten.
As for the annual calendar, it only requires one manual intervention per year. Throughout the year, the date automatically
changes from 30 to 31 days as the days and the months are displayed. However, once a year, the watch must be manually
set when the date changes from the 28th or 29th February to 1st March.
On the Manufacture calibre 9908 MC of the Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar watch, Cartier crafted a large
date display at 12 o’clock with two independent numerals. To simplify its operation even more, the watchmakers
designed a mechanism that allows all the information (day, date and month) to be managed via rapid turning
of the winding crown to adjust the calendar’s different indications. This simple setting system, devoid of any kind
of correcting device on the case, offers maximum ease of use. Three adjustments are therefore possible: the winding
of the movement, time setting and date setting.
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Highlighting a signature display
The ingenious and innovative arrangement of this calendar’s different functions allowed Cartier to optimise the
readability of the dial and thus display all the calendar’s indications in a far more accessible manner.
The dial can be read in three ways: the large date, the circle of days around which a red indicator turns, the month
aperture and the hours, which are shown by the progress of the blued-steel hands above black transfer Roman numerals.
Re-centred around strong graphic features, the dial boasts a “sunray” guilloché design in its centre that radiates
elegance. This Maison signature highlights and accentuates the volume and 40 mm diameter of the watch.
The Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar watch exists in two versions: a version in 18-carat pink gold on a leather
strap, which follows in the great tradition of Fine Watchmaking, and a contemporary version with a grey dial and an
alligator-skin strap that shakes up Cartier’s classical style codes with its material and matt finish.
Is it its range of functions, the great clarity of its dial that enables immediate reading of the time, or its elegance? The
perfect level of hand finishing on the Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar watch confirms its place in the circle of
Cartier Fine Watchmaking creations.
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Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar watch, 40 mm
Annual calendar with day indicated by a hammer-shaped hand
and month indicated by a disc, large date at 12 o’clock,
calibre 9908 MC
Case: 18-carat pink gold
Diameter: 40 mm
Crown: beaded in 18-carat pink gold set
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Hands: blued-steel sword-shaped
or hammer-shaped with a red tip
Strap: brown alligator skin
in 18-carat pink gold
Case: 18-carat white gold
Diameter: 40 mm
Crown: beaded in 18-carat white gold set
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Hands: blued-steel sword-shaped
or hammer-shaped with a red tip
Strap: matt black alligator skin
in 18-carat white gold
Mechanical Manufacture self-winding movement,
calibre 9908 MC, annual calendar with day indicated
by a hammer-shaped hand and month indicated by a disc,
large date at 12 o’clock
Casing-up diameter: 11½ lines, i.e. 25.6 mm
Total diameter: 30 mm
Thickness: 5.9 mm
Balance: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 48 hours
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ROTONDE DE CARTIER MYSTERIOUS
DOUBLE TOURBILLON WATCH
Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Double Tourbillon watch,
calibre 9454 MC, certified “Poinçon de Genève”
45 mm case in 18-carat pink gold
Beaded crown in 18-carat pink gold set with a sapphire cabochon
Dial white, guilloché, silvered open-work grill with sunray effect,
black transferred Roman numerals
Brown alligator skin strap
Double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat pink gold
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Mechanical Manufacture movement with manual winding
calibre 9454 MC
Mysterious Double Tourbillon
242 parts including 25 jewels
Casing-up diameter: 15½ lines
Total diameter: 35.5 mm
Movement thickness: 5 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations / hour
Power reserve approximately 52 hours
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TANK LOUIS CARTIER SKELETON
SAPPHIRE WATCH
Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton Sapphire watch,
calibre 9622 MC
30 mm x 39.2 mm case in18-carat pink gold
Beaded crown in 18-carat pink gold set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat pink gold
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Mechanical Manufacture movement with manual winding,
calibre 9622 MC
Skeleton sapphire
159 pieces including 21 jewels
Cased-up dimensions 11½ lines x 11¾ lines, i.e. 26 mm x 26.3 mm
Movement thickness 3.6 mm
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve approximately 3 days
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A DREAM OF FEMININITY
R Ê V E S D E P A N T HÈR E S W A T C H
DAY/NIGHT COMPLICATION CALIBRE 9916 MC
A timeless subject of artistic watchmaking expression at Cartier, the dreamlike panther enters the decoration – at once
diurnal and nocturnal – of a Day/Night movement that belongs to the great tradition of the Maison’s complications.
A complete and tangible vision of time measurement that resembles a jewellery dream lulled by a precious sky that
changes from starry night to shining sun.
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The figurehead of an incredible watchmaking journey, the panther, over the years, has ventured from one movement
to another, sometimes skeletonised, sometimes oscillating, giving rise a creative repertoire to which the latest Rêves
de Panthères watch belongs.
The famous feline appears for the first time in a pack, surrounding a fabulous disc: a graphic, feminine and jewelled
interpretation of one of Cartier’s most recent Fine Watchmaking movements.
Driven by the self-winding calibre 9916 MC, the sun and the moon take turns indicating the time, appearing and
disappearing in an alternating astral display, a magical spectacle observed by the three panthers.
Entirely pavé-set with diamonds, this celestial watch is an ode to Cartier’s emblematic animal. On the Rêves
de Panthères watch, their silhouettes spotted with black lacquer mark the timeless aesthetic with their enchanting trace.
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Rêves de Panthères watch
© Cartier
42 mm case in rhodium-finish 18-carat white gold set
with brilliant-cut diamonds
Beaded crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond
Sword-shaped hand in blued steel
Dial in rhodium-finish 18-carat white gold set
with brilliant-cut diamonds.
Dark-blue alligator-skin strap
Folding buckle in rhodium-finish 18-carat white gold set
Sapphire case back
Calibre 9916 MC
Self-winding mechanical movement 9916 MC
Day/Night complication
240 parts, including 36 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve of approximately 48 hours
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A R EV OLUTIONARY
NEW S E T T I NG T HAT MAKE S
T HE D I A M O ND S SC INT ILLATE
BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER VIBRATING SETTING WATCH
Cartier’s long and illustrious history allows the jeweller to draw on more than 160 years of jewellery expertise.
It is a craft elevated to great Art by the daring and style of its creations and by ambitious designs that constantly
stimulate technical innovation.
Throughout its history, Cartier has created surprises, broken with tradition and challenged accepted truths while
strengthening its expertise.
Why not use platinum? How do you adjust a bracelet to hold the watch as close as possible to the wrist? Is it possible to
make the watch hands float freely? The answers are found in the Garland style, the folding clasp and the mystery clocks.
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With the invention of a revolutionary setting, Cartier starts
a new chapter of its watchmaking and jewellery history
There are many links between jewellery and watchmaking, with discoveries shared and developed within the two fields.
At the end of the 19th century, the so-called “trembling setting” technique was introduced, enabling Cartier to let
its diamonds move freely without restraint. Today, this has inspired Cartier’s ground-breaking Vibrating Setting,
an utterly feminine and modern creation.
Diamonds that scintillate on the wrist like never before
This magical version of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch is designed to reveal the energy within the diamonds.
It sparkles with brilliance yet radiates a gentle softness. The Vibrating Setting is truly revolutionary. Cartier has made
several patent applications for this ingenious invisible system which brings precious stones to life and makes the
diamonds gleam and pulsate like the beating of a heart.
The effect is amazing, like a wave of light in a constant state of change. It is the magical feeling of wearing a piece
of living jewellery that throbs with the natural vibrations of the diamonds.
This captivating version of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch is fitted with the extra-thin movement 430 MC, a true
insider’s secret for women who recognise beautiful watchmaking.
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Ballon Bleu de Cartier 42 mm Vibrating Setting Watch
Mechanical movement with manual winding, calibre 430 MC
Limited edition of 20 individually numbered timepieces
42mm case in rhodium-finish 18-carat white gold set
Fluted crown set with a sapphire cabochon
Dial in NAC-treated 18-carat white gold set
Bracelet in rhodium-finish 18-carat white gold set
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A WORK OF ART AND GOLD LACE
RONDE LOUIS CARTIER FILIGREE WATCH
Nils Herrmann © Cartier
Created in the new Maison des Métiers d’Art on site at La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Ronde Louis Cartier Filigree watch
reinvents the centuries-old technique of filigree using a figurative, precious approach. A creative heritage method
that is testament to Cartier’s mission to perpetuate forgotten crafts and expertise such as granulation in 2013.
The ancient art of filigree appeared in Egypt in earliest antiquity. Its invention is attributed to the Sumerians in
around 3000 B.C. before being developed in India, Tibet, Greece and Iran and much later in Portugal where it reached
a new level of excellence.
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As diaphanous as lace, filigree is a technique of goldsmithing that uses gold or silver wires soldered together in order
to create an openwork grid with a desired motif.
For Cartier, the challenge consisted not only in adapting it to the restrained dimensions of a watch case but also
elevating this craft by opting for a very precious selection of jewellery materials such as gold, platinum and diamonds.
The craftsmen of the Maison des Métiers d’Art worked with beaten gold and platinum micro-wires that required
specific equipment specially created on site. Twisted, rolled, curled and cut into little rings, these wires were assembled
using the “openwork” filigree technique that allows the elements to be attached on the sides but not to the base.
Over a month of work was required to create this lacework watch that is home to a pair of panthers whose
black-lacquer-spotted coats are literally woven from fine filigree elements of gold and platinum set with diamonds.
Sovereigns draped in brocade, the two panthers look at each other with their cut-to-measure emerald eyes. This delicate
feline tête-à-tête is set against the background of a starry sky and surrounded by a middle pavé-set with diamonds,
which is partly covered by the motif.
This exceptional work of art brings together numerous kinds of craftsmanship, from gemstone-setting to goldsmithing,
from jewellery-making to watchmaking, from engraving to lacquering. A thousand actions that give Cartier’s emblematic
animal a rare preciousness with a balance, grace and absolute refinement that are as ethereal as the finest lace.
Ronde Louis Cartier XL watch, filigree panthers motif
Limited series of 20 numbered pieces
42 mm case in 18-carat yellow gold set
Beaded crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond
Apple-shaped hands in 18-carat yellow gold
Dial in 18-carat yellow gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds,
filigree panthers motif in 22-carat yellow gold
and 950/1000 platinum, with emeralds for the eyes
Dark-blue alligator-skin strap
Folding buckle in 18-carat yellow gold set
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PANTHER STONE
MOSAIC MOTIF
LARGE MODEL TORTUE WATCH
Large Model Tortue watch, panther stone mosaic motif
Case 18-carat pink gold, set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Eight-sided crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond
Apple-shaped hands in blued steel
Dial 18-carat pink gold, panther stone mosaic motif, onyx mosaic
spots and nose, green stone mosaic eyes
Black alligator skin strap
Folding buckle in 18-carat pink gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds
37 /1 /
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DAMASCENED
PANTHER MOTIF
ROTONDE DE CARTIER 42 MM WATCH
Rotonde de Cartier 42 mm watch, damascened panther motif
42 mm case in 18-carat pink gold
Beaded crown set with a sapphire cabochon
Apple-shaped hands in gilded steel
Dial 18-carat white gold, damascened 22-carat yellow,
pink and white gold, panther motif, lacquer spots and nose, onyx
Folding buckle in 18-carat pink gold
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ORCHID GRANULATION
AND ENGRAVED MOTHER-OF-PEARL MOTIF
BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER 42 MM WATCH
Ballon Bleu de Cartier 42 mm watch, orchid granulation and engraved mother-of-pearl motif
Self-winding mechanical movement
42 mm case in 18-carat yellow gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Fluted crown set with a sapphire cabochon
Sword-shaped hands in gilded steel
Dial 18-carat yellow gold, 22-carat yellow gold granulation, orchid motif in engraved mother-of-pearl,
18-carat yellow gold flower petals covered in red enamel
White alligator skin strap
Folding buckle in 18-carat yellow and pink gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds
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sihh 2015 daring creativity

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