finewines

Transcription

finewines

thewinesociety.com/finewines
HARVEST HOME
The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden produce for the red carpet of the harvest festival and, if they’re
serious about it, pickling, bottling and preserving it all for posterity. It’s the bottling, in particular, that interests us at The Society,
and when it comes to grapes, it’s one form of self-sufficiency we can’t possibly encourage. With so many experts on hand in this
List alone, from Austria to Australasia and a prime collection of Fine Wine Champions to be unveiled, we humbly suggest members
sit back and admire our hand-picked harvest instead. Bringing it home is, of course, our speciality. Janet Wynne Evans, Fine Wine Editor
CHAMPAGNE BOIZEL: A FAMILY JEWEL 3
We are privileged to take our pick of the archives of a family
marque in its fifth generation. Included is a special-edition mixed
case of three vintages of Joyau de France, literally the jewel in the
Boizel crown.
4
Our regular dip into the communes of Bordeaux this time takes in
the right bank, the Médoc and the northern tip of Graves, with six
clarets all ready to drink now.
SMALL WONDERS:
FINE WINES AT £20 AND UNDER 5
UNVEILED! FINE WINE CHAMPIONS 2015
GUEST GRAPE: PINOT NOIR 9
A veritable treat, especially for lovers of chardonnay, syrah, claret
and new world cabernet, but the premium end of The Society’s
2015 blind-tasting marathon has something for everyone. Three
mixed cases sum up the high points, with ample opportunity to do
some personal mixing and matching.
A VIN FOR ALL SEASONS TALES OF THE UNEXPECTED 13
14
16
It’s all in the bouquet, says buyer Sarah Knowles, who presents a
carefully curated collection from Australia’s original ‘State of
Excitement’. Making her case are Mac Forbes, Sandro Mosele of
Kooyong, Gary Mills of Jamsheed and Julian Castagna of Beechworth.
17
Standing serene in the face of the world’s ongoing passion for exotic
new world sauvignon, this grand old Pouilly property is still the last
word in quiet elegance.
2
To order
22
A ‘last word’ about fine wines with something of a story about
them. Some refuse to fit in boxes, others break the mould
completely and yet others are relatively normal, but brand new
discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way!
‘Quality can’t be added in the cellar,’ is one of many memorable
observations by the late Johnny Hugel, and the grand cru vineyards
behind a bottle of Jubilee are wholly apparent in the glass if not on
the label. Marcel Orford-Williams presents a selection of gold
standards and rarities from a long-standing Society friend.
LEGENDS OF THE LOIRE: CHATEAU DE TRACY 20
The bounty of autumn drives the second of our seasonal fine wine
and food features, with a cross-section of bottles from this List
selected specifically with game, roots and autumn fruits in mind,
plus a rather radical cheeseboard option.
Whether or not it rains, it still pours like a dream and it’s made in
Northamptonshire! Opt for the original Dry or walk on the wild
side with the Elderflower, Rhubarb or Sloe varieties and if you can’t
decide, go for the mixed case. Indian summer cocktails start here.
VICTORIAN VALUES:
SPOTLIGHT ON AUSTRALIA’S BOUTIQUE STATE 19
We make no apologies for the generous helping of pinot noir in this
List. It reflects the benefits of spadework, rather than guesswork in
the world outside Burgundy, though Burgundy is included too.
A mixed case offers a truly international selection taking in Italy’s
Adige Valley, Tasmania and Oregon.
The most popular of all Fine Wine List features combines effortless
class on the palate with corresponding ease on the wallet. The
Wine Society Buying Team shows its mettle in yet another grand
tour for the exploration-minded, from Bulgaria to New Zealand
and back again to Hungary, pausing in the Costa del Sol for a glass
of muscat!
ALSACE GRAND MASTERS: HUGEL 18
‘Wine is better when nature is all around it,’ says Jean-Marc Vincent,
whose wines made their Society debut in 2008. We catch up with
one of southern Burgundy’s most thoughtful and passionate
winemakers.
COMMUNING WITH CLARET:
PESSAC, SAINT-JULIEN AND SAINT-EMILION SPIRIT OF THE AGE:
WARNER EDWARDS ENGLISH GIN BURGUNDY PROFILE:
DOMAINE JEAN-MARC VINCENT, SANTENAY thewinesociety.com/finewines
How to use this List
l Wines
are listed by theme and then by price
l Drink
dates are given as a guide to maturity and ageing
potential
l For
further information about any of the wines please contact
Member Services on 01438 741177
l Fine
wines too limited in quantity to be listed may be
found in the fine wine section of The Society’s website at
thewinesociety.com/finewine
01438 740222
CHAMPAGNE BOIZEL
A FAMILY JEWEL
Evelyne Boizel is the fifth generation of her family to run
this Champagne house in the heart of Epernay. Her
husband Christophe Roque makes the wine and son
Florent sells it around the world. Delicacy and lightness of
touch describe the house style. Earlier this year The Wine
Society was given the rare opportunity to taste through a
selection of Boizel’s museum wines, encompassing older
vintage Champagnes and including several mature wines
from the house’s prestige Joyau range. The best of these is
offered below: naturally stocks are rare so we recommend
early ordering. Pierre Mansour
M-CH461 Boizel Brut Réserve NV
£27 bottle £135 per six
6 for 5 price
A charming and chic brut Champagne which is the perfect aperitif and the perfect
introduction to the fine, delicate quality of Boizel. The blend, from as many as 50 different
vineyards including many premiers and grands crus, is dominated by 55% pinot noir with
30% chardonnay and a little pinot meunier. 12%
M-CH1891 Boizel Rosé Brut NV
The secret to this deliciously full and fruity pink Champagne is the addition of red wine
from very ripe pinot noir to the final blend. 12% £35 bottle
M-CH3071
Boizel Grand Vintage 2007 Real finesse here. The 2007 vintage is elegant and creamy in texture. A stylish vintage
Champagne which is 50% pinot noir, 40% chardonnay and 10% pinot meunier.
Now to 2022. 12%
£45 bottle
M-CH2211 Boizel Brut Millésimé 2002 Boizel made a brilliant 2002 vintage which combines weight and charm to perfection.
Mostly pinot noir with a third chardonnay and a small amount of pinot meunier, this has
depth and purity of flavour. Drink this year. 12% F ind the food connection in A Vin for all
Seasons on page 21.
£49 bottle£294 per six
M-CH2981 Boizel Joyau de France 2000
Only made in the best years, Joyau spends a minimum of ten years ageing on lees. The
distinguished 2000 is graceful, mineral and biscuity, showing wonderful savoury flavours
from the time on lees, and gentle, integrated bubbles. Drink this year and next. 12%
£65 bottle
Boizel Joyau de France 1995
M-CH3081 A beautifully aromatic vintage Champagne, disgorged in 2013 and tasted by The Wine
Society in 2015. It flows effortlessly across the palate and is lovely now to 2020. 12%
M-CH3091
The complex, fully mature 1989, is integrated and smooth with intricate notes of nuts,
toast and honey. This dry, mature Champagne would work really well with scallops or
veal. Now to 2017. 12%
BOIZEL JOYAU DE FRANCE
VERTICAL CASE
£175 per six
6 for 5 price
£270 per six
£390 per six
£229
A very special limited-edition case from Boizel’s archives, packed in wood at the property and
including notes by Evelyne Boizel. Drink or store for the next 12 months.
A three-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:
ref M-MX15146 For advice
thewinesociety.com/advice or
01438 741177
3
COMMUNING
WITH CLARET
SAINT-EMILION, SAINT-JULIEN &
PESSAC-LEOGNAN
It’s hard to find three communes that showcase more
effectively the diversity of Bordeaux. Saint-Emilion, on the
right bank, combines the fragrant red-fruit charm and
suppleness of merlot and freshness of cabernet franc. SaintJulien has muscle tone to rival that of Pauillac, but tempered
by a layer of lush upholstery. Pessac-Léognan demonstrates
the upstanding but generous side of cabernet sauvignon. All
these fine ambassadors for their respective communes are
ready to drink, with time in hand. Joanna Locke MW
The pretty town of Saint-Emilion
M-CS7351 Château Puy-Blanquet, Saint-Emilion 2009
£14.95 bottle
Long popular with Society members, Puy-Blanquet has 20 hectares of vines in the
commune of Saint-Etienne-de-Lisse planted with 75% merlot, 15% cabernet franc and
10% cabernet sauvignon. The wine is mostly aged in vat, with 20% in partly new barrels.
Always attractively fresh, accessible and charming, it is especially rich and generous in this
fine vintage. Now to 2019. 13.5%
£179 dozen
M-CM16751 Château Ferran, Pessac-Léognan 2010
£17 bottle
Not to be confused with Château Ferrande in the wider Graves, this smart property was
owned and planted in the 18th century by local boy and eminent philosopher Charles de
Secondat de Montesquieu. Family owned for five generations now, it has benefited from
generous and good investment, and the wines are delicious. A merlot-dominated blend
with about a third cabernet, this is harmonious, supple claret, already approachable and
showing the class of a terrific vintage. Now to 2020. 14%
£204 dozen
M-CM12981 Hortevie, Saint-Julien 2008
£21 bottle£252 dozen
The vines of this ‘châteauless château’ adjoin those of Ducru-Beaucaillou, and the Borie
family, proprietors of the latter, acquired it in 2006 along with the Terrey-Gros-Caillou
estate of which it formed part. There is still no château, either on the property or the
label, but considerable polish has been added to what was already a consistently good
wine. The blend is 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. Delicious already, its sweet
fruit and solid foundation promise a good, long life. Now to 2024. 13%
Château Tertre Daugay, Saint-Emilion 2007
£21 bottle
M-CS9441 An historic classed growth property with a commanding position and fine terroir, since
bought by Domaine Clarence Dillon (Château Haut Brion et al) and renamed Château
Quintus. A silky and charming Saint-Emilion showing real finesse and pedigree in this more
forward vintage. Now to 2018. 13%
£252 dozen
M-CM12401 Château Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien 2007
Owner Jacques Merlaut has invested significantly in this estate which is superbly placed on
the inland plateau of Saint-Julien. Accounting for almost three-quarters of the blend,
cabernet is the driving force here, with a fifth merlot and a dash each of cabernet franc
and petit verdot. We were delighted to discover in 2007 one of the best recent vintages
for this château. This is powerful and full with extra finesse and freshness of fruit and bags
of flavour, just opening up now, but with ten years in hand. Now to 2025. 12.5%
M-CM12411 Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan 2007
A great estate owned for many years by the Sanders family, but sold in 1998 to American
Robert Willmers, who employs Véronique Sanders, granddaughter of the previous owner,
to manage the domaine. Willmers has totally rebuilt the cellars and improved selection in
the vineyard and the wine is finer than ever. Always long on finesse, this elegant blend of
70% cabernet sauvignon, 26% merlot and 4% cabernet franc has the beautifully rounded
fruit of a forward and very charming vintage. Delicious now, and for some time to come.
Now to 2023. 12.5%
4
To order
01438 740222
SMALL WONDERS
FINE WINES AT £20 AND UNDER
Small Wonders is perhaps the most eloquent expression of The Society’s fine wine focus, not on big names, collectible labels or
investment potential but on super quality and genuine excitement, wherever our buyers find it.
It always results in an eclectic mix which this time includes two very different sauvignons, two contrasting rieslings and a stunning
Tuscan vermentino. Among the reds, Bulgaria, Lebanon and Greece join Spain and there is plenty of varietal variety from Bordelais
cabernet franc to Kiwi syrah. For dessert, build up from the gentle charms of a late-harvest Tokaji to Telmo Rodríguez’ remarkable
unfortified muscat from the Costa del Sol, of all places. All these delights are to be had at £20 or under – in some cases well under.
Small wonder that these are the Fine Wine List’s more visited pages.
WHITE
M-PW5101 Niepoort Dócil, Vinho Verde 2014
£10.95 bottle
What
to
do
when
a
Small
Wonder
is
also
a
Champion?
The
obvious
answer
it
to
celebrate with a chilled glass of it. The latest vintage of Dirk Niepoort’s masterly vinho
verde replicated the success of the 2012 before it, winning its place with ease. Based on the
loureiro grape, it’s youthful and fragrant, with a cool poise that makes it very gastronomic.
Drink this year and next. 11% See the rest of our Fine Wine Champions on page 9.
£131 dozen
Vermentino Solosole, Poggio al Tesoro 2013
£11.50 bottle
M-IT19931 A
great
find
from
Tuscany
and
a
stunning
example
of
the
vermentino
grape
with
its
floral
and fruity perfume of white flowers, apricot and tropical fruits. The vines grow in Bolgheri,
on south-western slopes. The sparkling Tyrrhenian sea is nearby, and prestigious
neighbours include Ornellaia. From such an idyllic location comes a full, yet fresh white
with plenty of zip, the perfect foil for spicy Thai dishes. Now to 2017. 14.5%
£138 dozen
Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014
£13.50 bottle£162 dozen
M-NZ7791 This boutique sauvignon almost needs no introduction, such is its popularity. For members
who have yet to sample it, it’s made by Ivan Sutherland and James Healy in an elegant,
almost old world style that nevertheless packs enough of the passionfruit and ripe-pear
notes that sing of Marlborough. Tight in structure and long on the finish, it’s one of The
Society’s most sought-after Kiwi sauvignons, and very much a Small Wonder in terms of
value. Now to 2018. 13.5%
M-SP10201 Fefiñanes Albariño, Rías Baixas 2014
£13.95 bottle
This historic bodega was the first to bottle a single-varietal albariño, back in 1928. The
wines here are every bit as elegant as Juan Gil, the current Marqués de Fefiñanes, whose
atmospheric cellars in the heart of Cambados are bordered by some of the oldest, most
gnarled albariño vines in Galicia. This albariño always stands out in blind tastings for its
focus and structure, its vibrant, peachy fruit and mineral zip. Now to 2017. 12.5%
M-AU17711 Geoff Weaver Lenswood Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2014
A fine example of the elegance that can be achieved in South Australia with low-yielding
sauvignon blanc and a cool spot. In this case that spot is Lenswood in the Adelaide Hills,
where the unirrigated vines are planted on fairly barren soils and have to dig deep for
nutrients. The result is great concentration that expresses itself in deceptively gentle
grapefruit and lemon flavours lifted by fresh acidity. A restrained and very sophisticated
sauvignon with a refreshingly modest degree of alcohol. Drink now and next year. 12%
£167 dozen
M-GE8691 Josephshöfer Riesling Spätlese, von Kesselstatt 2008
Strategically placed between two great vineyards, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Graacher
Domprobst, and owned outright by von Kesselstatt, Josephshöfer comprises fewer than
four hectares of prime Mosel slate and delivers mouthwatering rieslings. After seven years
in bottle this is just coming into its own with lovely fresh bloom to the bouquet and full
rounded palate. Ethereal enough to enjoy as an aperitif, it also has the stuffing for roast
pork, especially the crackling. Now to 2023. 7.5%
For advice
01438 741177
5
SMALL WONDERS
WHITE
M-LO11231 La Pucelle de Romorantin, Henry et Jean-Sébastien Marionnet 2013
Cuttings from one of the oldest vineyards in France – romorantin vines planted in 1850 –
have blossomed into healthy young vines, producing their first crop in 2010. The wine
has the rapier backbone of acidity typical of the grape, here with a citrus tang and long,
mineral aftertaste. Savour it with luxurious seafood like oysters or Dover sole, or try it
with a goat’s cheese tart. Quite extraordinary, and long-lived too. Now to 2023. 11.5%
Rainer Wess Loibenberg Riesling 2012
£19.50 bottle
M-AA1661 Straddling the Danube in a most picturesque way, the Wachau valley is prime winegrowing as well as tourist territory. Within it lies Loibenberg, where Rainer Wess’s
vineyard is at 450m above sea level, on steep slopes. The soil is poor and thin, forcing
the vines to drill into the bedrock. The warmer 2012 vintage has produced riesling in a
broader style with ripe lemon, pear and white pepper on the palate, and notes of peach
as the wine opens up in the glass. Perfect charcuterie wine. Drink now and next year. 13%
SMALL WONDER
WHITES CASE
£234 dozen
£88
Drink now or store for the next 12 months
A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the
following wines:
Vermentino Bolgheri Solosole Poggio al
Tesoro 2013
Fefiñanes Albariño, Rías Baixas 2014
Geoff Weaver Lenswood Adelaide Hills
Sauvignon Blanc 2014
La Pucelle de Romorantin, Henry et
Jean-Sébastien Marionnet 2013
Rainer Wess Loibenberg Riesling 2012
Niepoort Dócil Vinho Verde 2014
ref M-MX15154
DESSERT
M-SP8701 MR Mountain Wine, Málaga 2010 50cl
Produced by Telmo Rodríguez from vineyards at 700m in the hills behind the bustling
resort, this is world-class unfortified muscat, pale yellow in colour with a seductively heady
bouquet, luscious, honeyed palate and a finish as fresh as a mountain stream. It has a very
particular affinity with pear-based desserts. Drink now and next year. 13.5% 50cl
Find the food connection in A Vin for all Seasons on page 21.
M-HU941 Royal Tokaji Late Harvest Pure Furmint 2013 50cl
A modern take on Tokaji, with fragrant, honeyed aromas of healthy grapes and natural
sweetness tempered by lovely fresh fruit acidity. Try this with figs, fresh or baked with
a drop of honey or a strawberry gratin topped with cream and brown sugar and
caramelised under the grill. It makes a delicious aperitif too. Now to 2019. 10% 50cl
6
To order
01438 740222
RED
M-CB4071 Château de Pitray Cuvée Cabernet Franc, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 £11.95 bottle£143 dozen
Château de Pitray is not only owned and run by the de Boigne family, it’s also their home.
It’s always been a good and consistent source of delicious and long-lasting claret, and this
rare monovarietal bottling, exclusive to Society members, reflects the exceptional quality
of cabernet franc in the otherwise challenging 2011 vintage. Fuller and fleshier than a Loire
cabernet, this is fresh but round and brambly, with fine, supple tannins. Now to 2020. 14.5%
M-LO11351 Chinon ‘Pierre de Tuf’, Domaine de la Noblaie 2012
Young Jérôme Billard trained with Moueix in Bordeaux and California, and later in New
Zealand, before returning to the family’s Loire estate with a fresh outlook but a great
respect for the integrity of Chinon’s grape, cabernet franc, working organically, reducing
maceration time and handling the carefully selected fruit more gently. This fine cuvée is
vinified in an ancient limestone vat then matured in double barriques, all of which Jérôme
believes softens Chinon’s sometimes gruff exterior. Fragrant, richly berried and silky, and a
fine advertisement for sustainable viticulture. Now to 2018. 12.5%
Leeuwin Siblings Margaret River Shiraz 2012
M-AU17681 New from Leeuwin, with whom we associate premium bottles for very special occasions,
the Siblings range is for more relaxed enjoyment and, as such, a perfect Small Wonder.
This soft, velvety Western Australian shiraz has echoes of the Rhône, with abundant
blackberry and plum aromas lifted by pepper and anise and balanced by fine acidity.
Now to 2018. 14%
M-SP10481 Tomàs Cusiné Geol, Costers del Segre 2012
Crafted with typical precision by Spanish rising star Tomàs Cusiné, this is an impressive blend
of cariñena, merlot and cabernet from Costers del Segre in Catalunya. A powerful, yet
supremely elegant and beautifully scented red of depth and complexity. Now to 2022. 14.5%
M-LE701 Château Ksara 2011 Ksara’s main estate wine, made from cabernet sauvignon (60%), merlot (30%) and petit
verdot (10%), is exceptional in 2011. Fragrant, spicy and plummy, this has lovely lush fruit
and is beautifully balanced. A wine made in the claret style but with a Lebanese twist.
Now to 2020. 13.5%
M-SP10601 Valderiz, Ribera del Duero 2010 £16 bottle£192 dozen
Tomàs Esteban and his family manage 60 hectares of vineyard in Roa, the prime area in
Ribera del Duero for growing grapes. This 100% tempranillo is a modern blockbuster red
with layers of fruit and a powerful, bold finish. Its time in new French and American oak
has endowed it with a polished, sensuous feel. The 2010 was awarded the top accolade of
‘Outstanding’ by Decanter magazine. Now to 2021. 14.5%
M-SP8601 Domaines Lupier El Terroir Garnacha, Navarra 2009 Young couple Enrique Basarte and Elisa Úcar are behind this new wine from very old
vines, dating back to 1903. These were painstakingly selected using SIGPAC (a Spanish
vineyard-mapping programme) in what can be considered a work of viticultural
archaeology, and produced just 40,000 bottles of beautifully structured and layered
Spanish garnacha with serious, complex flavours. Decant an hour or two before serving.
Now to 2019. 14%
£16 bottle
£192 dozen
M-NZ8381 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2013
The Gimblett Gravels of New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay add the insulating benefits of stony,
alluvial soils to the cool, oceanic climate. The area is relatively small and sought-after. This
delicious North Island syrah demonstrates why, with notes of blackcurrant, pepper and
leather on the nose and palate, a lick of oak from a stint in partially renewed French
barriques and a striking freshness that keeps it perfectly balanced. Now to 2019. 13%
Mount Koinga Central Otago Pinot Noir 2012 M-NZ6891 A joint project between The Society and Paul Pujol of Prophet’s Rock, this members’
exclusive is a fine-flavoured and silky single-vineyard New Zealand pinot from
well-insulated, free-draining soils in the warm Pisa sub-region of Central Otago.
Exuberantly ripe and succulent, but elegant and smooth. Now to 2017. 13.5%
For advice
01438 741177
7
SMALL WONDERS
RED
M-IT17891 Montefalco Sagrantino, Scacciadiavoli 2007 £18 bottle£216 dozen
The sagrantino grape is a true Italian original with heaps of flavour and attitude, and when
handled well, as in this bold and generous Umbrian red, both mighty and impressive. The
splendidly ripe 2007 vintage delivers rich layers of mulberry fruit to cover the natural
tannin. Ageing in barrel and bottle has encouraged complexity, adding hints of chocolate,
coffee and autumnal scents. The alcohol level is perfectly in balance. Now to 2020. 15.5%
Earth and Sky Naoussa Thymiopoulos 2012
M-GR871 Earth and Sky is made from 40-year-old xynomavro bush vines, grown in central Macedonia
by Apostolos Thymiopoulos. He hates agrichemicals and synthetic fertilisers, and loves the
world’s great reds, from Barolo to Burgundy. This stunning and sophisticated wine has a
gorgeous bouquet of fragrant red fruits, strawberry and violet, and a seductively sweet but
structured palate reminiscent of the Côte de Nuits. Now to 2021. 14%
Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore, Zenato 2010 £20 bottle£240 dozen
M-IT19311 Between casual Valpolicella and meditational Amarone lies the ripasso style, wherein the
former is added to the remains of the dried grapes pressed for the latter. A second
fermentation ensues and the result is a supercharged Valpolicella of gorgeous richness and
body. The blend is majority corvina, aged for 18 months in large oak casks and it’s a finer
bottle than many a much pricier Amarone. To set it apart, Zenato choose to call it ripassa,
the female of the species clearly having more finesse. Now to 2018. 14%
Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
M-US5691 Bright blackcurrant and mocha notes on the nose and an intense black-fruit and vanilla
core define this Sonoma cabernet, with ripe, chewy tannins and pure fresh acidity
keeping its exuberance in check. This wine has elegance as well as power, which should
allow it to age beautifully if you can resist its youthful charms. Now to 2025. 14.5%
£20 bottle
Melnik Noble Logodaj 2008
Making its debut in Small Wonders, Bulgaria’s indigenous melnik grape shows its class and
ability to age in this ripe and multi-layered red from the Struma valley, close to the Greek
border. Lovely mature fruit, overlaid with hints of chocolate and black pepper and the
mellowing effects of a year in wood, make this, in buyer Sebastian Payne’s words, an
‘eye-opener’. Drink now and next year. 14% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15153.
SMALL WONDER REDS CASE
£82
Drink or store to 2016
A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:
Melnik Noble Logodaj 2008
Château de Pitray Cuvée Cabernet Franc, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011
Leeuwin Siblings Margaret River Shiraz 2012
Tomàs Cusiné Geol, Costers del Segre 2012
Chateau Ksara 2011
Montefalco Sagrantino, Scacciadiavoli 2007
ref M-MX15153
8
To order
01438 740222
£240 dozen
FINE WINE CHAMPIONS
The Buying Team’s annual quest for instant gratification this year
encompassed a record number of wines (almost 700) all tasted blind
without fear or favour, in order to pinpoint perfect readiness to
drink at any price. For our premium bottles, whose drink windows
must approximate a plateau of pleasurable stability, somewhere
between screeching teenage angst and declining powers, the exercise
is especially useful.
Our 15th Fine Wine Champions reveal that chardonnay rules yet
again, though riesling put up a magnificent showing too, that there’s
never been a better time to enjoy syrah, and that Bordeaux and new
world cabernet are on a roll. Our men of the match are below, with
three mixed cases to relish. Some wines that are very limited in
stock are reserved for these in the interests of fair distribution.
WHITE
M-LO11831
The Society’s Exhibition Sancerre 2014
The sauvignon blanc tasting sessions are among the last, and probably the most taxing of
the Champions campaign. European tank samples are often surly, and there’s a lot of acid
about (not just in the wines). It’s very gratifying to find an Exhibition bottling that’s not
merely sociable but disarming. This classic and refined sauvignon blanc comes from the
Loire’s Central Vineyards and the super-reliable Franck Laloue, whose wines are good even
in lesser vintages, and really shine in good Loire years such as 2014. Now to 2018. 13%
M-PW5141
Anselmo Mendes Contacto Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2014
Looking at the three vinhos verdes on this year’s Champions’ podium, it seems incredible
that this wine first arrived on our shores as unauthentically sweetened spritz for simple
quaffing. The elegant flint and precision of this bottling by Anselmo Mendes is a world
away. The grape is alvarinho, given added structure and body by extended ‘contacto’ with
the grape skins. The 2013 vintage was a Champion last year, so an impressive record.
Now to 2018. 13%
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis 2012
M-BU54701 Domaine Fèvre is no stranger to Wine Champion success and this year it didn’t even need
to be a premier cru to score top marks in an outstanding field. The panel adored the classic,
steely minimalism of this village wine with remarkable length and depth for its place in the
Chablisian scheme of things. Lithe, lemony and expressive. Now to 2020. 12.5%
M-AR3201 Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2012 £18 bottle£216 dozen
A roaring victory for this thrilling Argentine chardonnay, from a selection of the best vines
of an outstanding vineyard that lies at 1,450m in the foothills of the Andes. Tropical and
rich but also pure and focused, with admirable length of flavour, it will be even better for
20 minutes in a decanter before serving, to develop the flavours. Now to 2017. 14%
M-NZ7531 Prophet’s Rock Central Otago Riesling 2010
A first Champions success for Paul Pujol’s aristocratic South Island riesling, stylistically
inspired by his stint as winemaker at Kuentz-Bas in Alsace. We especially admired its
evolved flavours of intense lime, the result of a long, warm slow-ripening autumn, its racy
acidity and modest alcohol. Beautifully mature. Now to 2018. 12%
Cloudy Bay Marlborough Chardonnay 2012
£22 bottle
M-NZ7581 The sauvignon always gets all the press, so bravo for the excellent, if overshadowed
chardonnay produced by this legendary Kiwi estate. Up against some stiff competition, it
opened its account with exuberant bursts of citrus and apple, and a flash of toasty vanilla,
denoting some perfectly judged barrel ageing. Crisp, mouthwatering acidity and a lovely
underlying minerality kept it on a tight and elegant leash. Lovely. Now to 2018. 13.5%
£264 dozen
Domaine Marc Colin, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Créots 2012 £27 bottle
M-BU54931 Our chosen Côte d’Or Burgundy comes from a vineyard tucked away in a valley behind
the grand cru Le Montrachet, and is some considerable way behind the latter in terms of
price. Saint-Aubin always offers value for money, but think of this one more as a baby
Puligny as, indeed, many of the panel did before sight of the label, bewitched by the malic,
fragrant aromas, tightly knit palate and touch of very classy barrel. Now to 2017. 13.5%
£324 dozen
For advice
01438 741177
9
FINE WINE CHAMPIONS
DESSERT
M-BW4062 Half bottle of Château Raymond-Lafon, Sauternes 2010
£13.50 half bottle £162 dozen
This
near-perfect
Sauternes
continues
to
impress,
both
in
comparative
tastings
of
the
vintage, and now in the more exacting conditions of Wine Champions. If it lacks the
kudos of premier cru, having arrived on the scene a whisker too late for the 1855
Classification, it is every inch the first-growth on the palate. The blend is four-fifths
semillon with sauvignon blanc. Spicy, aromatic, luscious and fine with wonderful length of
flavour. Now to 2035. 13.5% Find the food connection in A Vin for all Seasons on page 21.
FINE WINE CHAMPION CHARDONNAYS CASE £109
Drink now or store to 2017
A six-bottle case containing two bottles each of the following wines:
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis 2012
Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2012
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2012
ref M-MX15147
RED
M-AU16961 Tahbilk Nagambie Lakes Central Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Tahbilk’s whites are frequent Champions, but this year the estate’s cabernet made its
mark with one of the very best wines we tasted in a highly competitive new world
section. No shortage of black-fruit seductiveness on the palate, but discreet cedary
undertones and long, fine tannins signal the presence of a serious mouthful. Decant an
hour before serving to maximize the pleasure. Now to 2018. 13.5%
M-SP9951 The Society’s Exhibition Rioja Reserva 2008 £12.95 bottle
There is always a Rioja on the podium and this year was no exception, with an Exhibition
label to boot. The Society’s Exhibition wines are designed to reflect the subtleties of a
defined region, and, as in this case, an established ageing protocol. Made for us at La Rioja
Alta, it’s matured for five years before release, longer than the rules require. A traditional
wine from a cooler vintage, displaying intense, vivacious fruit and a silky texture.
Benchmark stuff. Now to 2018. 13.5%
£155 dozen
Domaine de Bellene, Clos Bardot Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir
£12.95 bottle£155 dozen M-BU48871 Vieilles Vignes 2010
A complete charmer of a Burgundy, from a very well-situated vineyard in Comblanchien,
adjacent to the Nuits commune of Prémeaux. Youthful but ready, and brimful of attractive
black-cherry fruit, held in check by ripe tannins. Drink this year and next. 12.5%
Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône Villages l’Authentique, Domaine Delubac 2009 £16 bottle
M-RH37491 One of the prime spots of the southern Côtes, Cairanne is rich in Champion potential. In
this year’s excellent turn-out for syrah, the Delubacs’ flagship cuvée, with 50% in the blend –
the rest is grenache – blew us all away with its rich, exuberant fruit, opulent, but in complete
harmony with fine tannins and vital acidity. Persistent and impressive. Now to 2020. 15%
£192 dozen
M-CS6821A Château de La Dauphine, Fronsac 2007
£17 bottle
A blend of 80% merlot with 20% cabernet franc, La Dauphine is a perennial hit with
members. We can report from the Champions front line that the 2007 is absolutely
perfect now – deliciously mature, sumptuous in texture and packed with pure, dark-red
fruit, lifted by delicate acidity. We felt justified in extending the drink window to 2018. 13%
£204 dozen
Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, Domaine Combier 2012
M-RH36951 You have to hand it to Maurice Combier (and we did, this year) who, for many years was
considered quite mad for going organic. He wanted his wine to stand out from the crowd
and it still does under the management of son Laurent. This is northern Rhône syrah at its
dark, fruity, savoury best, oozing finesse as well as flavour. It showed like a dream on the
day and will surely continue to do so on many more days to come. Now to 2019. 12.5%.
10
To order
01438 740222
M-AR3141 Zaha Red Blend Mendoza 2011
£20 bottle
We all marvelled at the star quality of this Argentine blend of 78% malbec and 22%
cabernet from the high, cool vineyards of Altamira in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. ZaHa, to spell
it correctly in the Huarpe language, means ‘heart’ and this has a huge and generous one
that deserves a top-notch prime rib. Now to 2022. 14%
£240 dozen
M-CE7591 Gandolini Las Tres Marias Vineyards Maipo Andes Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 £23 bottle
A Champion for the second year in a row, and still only in its maiden vintage, Stefano
Gandolini’s finely wrought cabernet is a poster boy for the Maipo Valley and the finesse
and complexity of the new Chile. Considered the Médoc of Chile, its alluvial soils provide
essential drainage and insulation. Three exceptional vineyard sites combine to produce this
opulent and complex red, a blend of 90% cabernet with cabernet franc, petit verdot and
petite sirah. Even better now than it was a year ago. Now to 2026. 14%
£276 dozen
Marquise d’Alesme, Margaux 2009
M-CM16391 The second wine of third growth Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker bewitched us all over
again in this outstanding Bordeaux vintage. For the second year running, it delivered all
you’d expect from a Margaux of distinction: subtle, fragrant nose, smooth, silky palate and
satisfying length. A real charmer and perfectly ready. Now to 2018. 13.5%
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mourre de Perdrix, Domaine de Charbonnière 2009 £29 bottle
M-RH37591 A heartwarming Châteauneuf from a sun-drenched vintage has a clear advantage in a cold
tasting room in the dead of winter. Perhaps not surprisingly, the panel awarded this top
marks, but not out of gratitude. A blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre, this rich, fullbodied single-vineyard red will be perfect with the first of the game. Now to 2024. 15.5%
£348 dozen
M-BU47481 Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin en Pallud 2009 £42 bottle£504 dozen
An immediately unanimous Champion that won maximum points from all present.
‘Proper job!’ ‘belter!’ and ‘sumptuous’ were all words deployed to describe this perfect
Côte de Nuits Burgundy from a lovely vintage and tiny plots of older, lower-yielding vines.
Impeccably behaved with abundant forest fruits overlaying its complexity and undoubted
focus. Job done. Now to 2020. 13%
Château Ferrière, Margaux 2002
£45 bottle
M-CM15721 Not only the surprise standout wine of a comparative tasting of classed growths of the
vintage, but a clear Champion in two separate blind sessions! With true, fine, cedary
Margaux bouquet and impressive cabernet class and length of flavour, this has really started
to blossom, and will continue in fine fettle for the next five years. Now to 2020. 13%
£540 dozen
M-CM13581 Château Phélan Ségur, Saint-Estèphe 1996
£47 bottle
That this beautifully balanced claret has reached a plateau of perfection was apparent to all,
both at the initial claret sessions and the final taste-off in this year’s Champions campaign.
The fine fruit of a great cabernet year, now mature and silky, is much in evidence with just
over half of the blend, and the merlot provides richness and charm. A super Saint-Estèphe
of depth, power and finesse, and a joy to drink now and next year. 12.5%
£564 dozen
Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux-Saint-Jacques £75 bottle£900 dozen
2009
It was a cracking vintage (Champions and calendar) for this Domaine. Maume’s Lavaux is
nothing short of magnificent: focused, integrated and long, full but never flashy, with sousbois flavours really coming through on the nose and deep black-cherry fruit on the palate.
‘A fine autumn day in a glass,’ as one taster summed it up. Now to 2022. 13.5%
M-BU47491
M-RH25431 Hermitage Rouge, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave 2007
£135 bottle
It’s hard not to spot the breathtaking finesse and complex layering of a Chave Hermitage
in a blind tasting. The surprise was how delicious this vintage is now, just at the beginning
of its drink window – ‘not merely stirring but ready,’ as one taster put it. Such discoveries
are, of course, the point of Wine Champions. This delivers lovely notes of Provence herbs
and black olives, overlaying enormous depth and concentration. Now to 2028. 14%
Three bottles only per member.
Undurraga TH Las Gaviotas San Antonio Pinot Noir 2012
Achieving Championship status in a first vintage is a fair achievement by any standards, and
– see Gandolini’s Tres Marias above – a Chilean speciality. Locking horns with Burgundy,
New Zealand and other seasoned practitioners of this tricky grape, this beautifully crafted
and very serious pinot noir scored highly for its cherry-fruited concentration and fine,
mineral edge. Now to 2018. 14% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15156.
For advice
01438 741177
11
FINE WINE CHAMPIONS
RED
Max, Stellenbosch 2008 A blind-tasting triumph for ace winemaker Miles Mossop, whose Bordeaux-inspired blend
of cabernet sauvignon with roughly equal shares of petit verdot and merlot impressed
with its plush fruit and impressive length. The wine is named in honour of Miles’ son
Maximilian. A real Cape classic, gorgeous now, and with plenty of time in hand. Now to
2020. 14% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15156.
Saint-Joseph Tilde, Domaine Pierre-Jean Villa 2011
Pierre-Jean Villa’s career took off at Clos de Tart, and he still keeps a hand in Burgundy
as well as running a boutique estate in the northern Rhône. His main focus is Saint-Joseph,
a commune that performed impressively in this year’s Wine Champions. This supple,
well-judged expression of 40-year-old syrah vines is a lovely compote of easy-going
red and black fruit with poise and class that persisted to the finish. Now to 2021. 13%
Available only in the mixed case M-MX15156.
FINE WINE CHAMPION REDS CASE £88
The Society’s Exhibition Rioja Reserva 2008
Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône Villages l’Authentique, Domaine Delubac 2009
Undurraga TH Las Gaviotas San Antonio Pinot Noir 2012
Tahbilk Nagambie Lakes Central Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Max, Stellenbosch 2008
Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, Domaine Combier 2012
ref M-MX15156
WORLD-CLASS FINE WINE CHAMPIONS CASE
Château de La Dauphine, Fronsac 2007
Zaha Blend Mendoza 2011
Gandolini Las Tres Marias Vineyards Maipo Andes Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Marquise d’Alesme, Margaux 2009
Saint-Joseph Tilde, Domaine Pierre-Jean Villa 2011
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mourre de Perdrix, Domaine de Charbonnière 2009
ref M-MX15157
12
To order
01438 740222
£142
SPIRIT OF THE AGE
WARNER EDWARDS GIN
Time was, gin was gin but it’s no longer that simple. The battle of the brands rages unabated and Mother is not so much ruined as
spoiled for choice. How relaxing to find two young distillers who believe in retaining that simplicity. We’ll never know the winning
formula of herbs and spices that Siôn Edwards and Tom Warner have hit upon in their Northamptonshire distillery but we don’t
need to. The crisp, clean lines of Harrington Dry are a breath of fresh air and there’s none of that reducing of alcoholic strength
to keep costs down. Sitting comfortably in the sweet spot between effete and export-grade outrageous, they make their mark.
The flavoured gins will pep up any number of classic cocktails. Mark Buckenham
M-LR121
Warner Edwards Harrington Sloe Gin 70cl A base of Harrington Dry, blushing furiously with hand-gathered sloes for some of the
most glamorous, fruity purple-tinged summer-evening cocktails imaginable. Serve a
measure in a flute, topped with dry sparkling wine, Tom Collins style, with lemon and
soda or with dry white vermouth in a shameless pink Martini. 30%
£29 bottle £348 dozen
Warner Edwards Elderflower Infused Gin 70cl £32 bottle £384 dozen
M-GN181 Made in small vintage-dated batches from English and Welsh elderflower and spring water,
this lovely muscat-scented gin is delicious ice-cold with a little sparkling elderflower, a
wafer-thin cucumber ribbon and a little mint. Cool and classy. 40%
Warner Edwards Victoria’s Rhubarb Gin 70cl M-GN171
Harrington Dry blended with gently pressed rhubarb juice and a pinch of sugar for
a perfectly piquant, distinctive gin. The royal connection here is the provenance of
the rhubarb, a Crown Estate, where it’s grown, as it would have been in a Victorian
potager, entirely without agrichemicals. An exotic but very British slant on a gin and
tonic, but rhubarb and ginger get on famously, so try this in a classic gin and ginger beer
cocktail too. 40%
M-GN141 Warner Edwards Harrington Dry Gin 70cl
£32.75 bottle
Hints of elderflower, ginger and spices lift this smooth, rich, handcrafted gin. Serve simply
with tonic and a slice of lime, shake into a Martini or stir into a proper home-mixed fruit
cup that really cheers. 44%
£393 dozen
THE WARNER EDWARDS
COLLECTION
£89
A three-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following:
Warner Edwards Elderflower Infused Gin 70cl
Warner Edwards Victoria’s Rhubarb Gin 70cl
Warner Edwards Harrington Dry Gin 70cl
ref M-MX15145
For advice
01438 741177
13
ALSACE GRAND MASTERS
FAMILLE HUGEL, RIQUEWIHR
If quality can’t be added in the cellar, as Johnny Hugel observed, cellars can
certainly have secrets, and none more so than the labyrinth beneath the
headquarters of Maison Hugel, in the heart of Riquewihr. Below, we list
some of them.
Hugel are important vineyard owners, especially among the top sites in
Riquewihr, and it is these great vineyards, such as the Schoenenbourg, that
are behind some of Alsace’s greatest wines. At Hugel, these were originally
labelled Réserve Exceptionnelle, subsequently Réserve Personnelle and,
from 1989, ‘Jubilee’, to mark the house’s 350th anniversary.
This year the Hugel family decided to add to the range a new riesling which
will help redefine the potential that exists in Alsace for making fine wine. It
comes from a specific Schoenenbourg plot and is called Schoelhammer. In
this List, we present the very first vintage, along with some mature wines
from the 2011 and 2009 vintages and a number of rare nectars for which
this noble house is justly famous. Marcel Orford-Williams
RED
M-AL8641 Pinot Noir Jubilee, Hugel 2009
Marc Hugel has reduced the amount of barrel ageing in his reds and as a result, they are
less tannic and much more attractive. The Jubilee comes from Hugel’s own vines in
Riquewihr. Concentrated, very rich and full-flavoured. Now to 2018. 14%
M-AL8651 Pinot Noir Jubilee ‘Les Neveux’, Hugel 2009
£32 bottle The older generation in the family never quite believed in pinot noir and this cuvée
exists almost as a wager from the younger generation of nephews to prove a point.
From a specific plot in the limestone-rich Pflostig vineyard, Les Neveux appears only in
exceptional years: 2009 is its third vintage since 1990. It is very concentrated, yet without
any harsh tannins. Instead there is just a huge amount of very ripe fruit. Outstanding.
Now to 2020. 14.5%
£384 dozen
WHITE AND SWEET
M-AL10171 Riesling Tradition, Hugel 2011 £14.95 bottle ‘Tradition’ is an estate riesling, much of it coming from the Schoenenbourg vineyard
overlooking Riquewihr. Very ripe and full-bodied in 2011 yet for all that perfectly balanced,
dry with a salty, mineral flavour. Now to 2020. 14% £179 dozen
M-AL9031 Riesling Jubilee, Hugel 2009 £21 bottle Jubilee Riesling also comes from Schoenenbourg, but from older vines on better-exposed
slopes. The 2009 vintage was marked by a hot summer and so naturally the wines are fullbodied and full-flavoured with remarkable concentration. Poised and refined with good
ageing potential, this is a fine, beautifully poised riesling which will benefit from another
year in bottle. Now to 2022. 13.5%
£252 dozen
Pinot Gris Jubilee, Hugel 2011 £21 bottle M-AL10191 Fragrant, very rich and wonderfully concentrated pinot gris from older vines within the
Sporen and Pflostig vineyards, combining fruit from clay and limestone soils. A wonderful
wine with roast goose, so keep some back for the end of the year. Now to 2022. 14.5%
£252 dozen
14
To order
01438 740222
M-AL7751 Gewurztraminer Hommage à Jean Hugel 1998 £25 bottle Another beauty from the Sporen vineyard, where the grapes were picked at a very high
degree of ripeness that would have been declared ‘vendange tardive’ in any other year.
This is a selection of the best vats, made by the 12th generation of the Hugel family to
mark the late and legendary Johnny Hugel’s retirement. With a touch of noble rot, this is
very rich and full-bodied, mature but still vibrant. Perfect wine for Munster cheese, in fact.
Drink this year and next. 13.5%
£300 dozen
M-AL10861 Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2007 £33 bottle A rich, luscious late-harvest gewurztraminer from an outstanding vintage. This is where
the Hugels come into their own, taking full advantage of their plot of vines at the heart of
the grand cru Sporen, which stands opposite Schoenenbourg. Now to 2022. 12.5%
£396 dozen
Riesling Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2009 M-AL12501 Late-harvest styles from the riesling grape are rare, the result of perfect conditions and
the development of noble rot. This is full, complex with definite yet not overwhelming
sweetness. Not a dessert wine but rather a wine to drink with fish or poultry served in
creamy sauces, or, of course, on its own. Now to 2025. 12.5%
M-AL12521 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2008
Stunning late–harvest pinot gris, combining sweetness and tangy freshness. Truffle and
caramel with a touch of butterscotch. A tarte tatin beckons. Now to 2025. 13.5%
Riesling Schoelhammer, Hugel 2007
£60 bottle M-AL12511 Hugel’s new flagship riesling, of which fewer than 5,000 bottles were made from 30 rows
of old vines planted on a historic part of the Schoenenbourg slope. Dry, mineral and
incredibly complex, this is perfect to drink now but will of course keep for many more
years to come. Now to 2025. 13%
£720 dozen
Gewurztraminer Sélection des Grains Nobles, Hugel 2007 £109 bottle M-AL8491 Perhaps the ultimate expression of gewurztraminer. Made from individually picked berries
and in very limited quantities, this is very sweet and luscious, yet also incredibly refined.
A painstaking process but the results are breathtaking. Now to 2020. 11.5%
£1308 dozen
HUGEL JUBILEE CASE £119
Pinot Noir Jubilee, Hugel 2009
Pinot Gris Jubilee, Hugel 2011
Riesling Jubilee, Hugel 2009
ref M-MX15149
HUGEL FAMILY NECTARS CASE £119
A three-bottle case of rare late-harvest wines containing one bottle each of the following:
Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2007
Riesling Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2009
Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2008
ref M-MX15150
For advice
01438 741177
15
VICTORIAN VALUES
AUSTRALIA’S ‘STATE OF EXCITEMENT’
Melbourne was recently voted ‘World’s Best City to Live In’ by the Daily Telegraph, and a feeling of optimism and opportunity is also
evident in Victoria’s vineyards. In a new generation of passionate winemakers, Mac Forbes leads the charge for us, pushing boundaries
with elegant pinots and rieslings of incredible finesse. Sandro Mosele continues his painstaking study of the subtly varying terroir of the
Kooyong vineyard, sculpting some of Australia’s finest chardonnays. Jamsheed’s Gary Mills has taken old-vine single-vineyard syrah to
another level of intricacy. New to The Society is Beechworth producer Julian Castagna. Decanting these wines for an hour or two will
focus the heady perfumes I now associate with Victoria. Sarah Knowles
WHITE
M-AU17371 Mac Forbes RS7 Strathbogie Ranges Riesling 2014
This thirty-something year old vineyard is planted at 600m, on decomposing granite soils.
A long, slow ripening delivers minute quantities of ethereal riesling with a refreshingly
modest alcohol level and classic aromas of lime and lemon. Off-dry yet crisp and racy.
Now to 2022. 12.6%
M-AU17831 Kooyong Farrago Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2012
Farrago is a tiny vineyard, less than half a hectare, planted on pebbly clay and ironstone
soils that deliver concentrated, complex wines. This is multilayered chardonnay, defined by
its minerality and linear structure but deceptively effortless to drink. Now to 2018. 13.5%
Kooyong Faultline Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2012
M-AU17841 Faultline, the largest Kooyong plot, produces finely textured chardonnays with a rich apple
and wet-flint fragrance and lemony acidity. Sandro believes this wine takes off after five
years, but decanting will help fast-forward the flavours. Now to 2020. 13.5%
RED
M-AU17391 Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013
Mac’s Yarra pinot packs strawberry and rhubarb on the nose, very perfumed and bright.
Cherry and white-pepper spice develop on the palate, overlaying fine tannins and a fresh
finish. Now to 2019. 13% Find the food connection in A Vin For All Seasons on page 20.
Jamsheed Moonambel Syrah 2012
M-AU17301 A homage to the northern Rhône, from 40-year-old vines grown in Victoria’s Pyrenees
region. A high proportion of fruit is whole-bunch fermented in old oak, with wild yeasts.
A swathe of flavours, from cassis to flint to black pepper, is given elegance by fine acidity
and ripe tannins. Now to 2020. 13.8%
M-AU17311 Jamsheed Yarra Valley Yarra Glen Syrah 2012
Gary makes this wine from a small vineyard plot in the Yarra Valley that has an outcrop of
granite. The wine has elegance and precision, sour-cherry and blackberry notes, fine
tannins and a refreshing spicy finish. Now to 2019. 13%
M-AU17141 Adam’s Rib Castagna The Red Beechworth 2010
Made by Julian Castagna’s son Adam, this full-bodied shiraz-nebbiolo blend has a meaty,
blackberry-and-pepper nose and long, rich, concentrated palate underpinned by ripe
tannins, yet retains wonderful freshness. Now to 2024. 14% Low stock.
M-AU17381 Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013
High in the Upper Yarra Valley, Woori Yallock delivers cool, elegant pinots of precision and
intensity, defined by fresh redcurrant and cranberry flavours. Delicious already, this will
keep for a good while yet. Now to 2020. 13.1%
VICTORIA SPOTLIGHT CASE
£155
Mac Forbes RS7 Strathbogie Ranges Riesling 2014
Kooyong Farrago Mornington Peninsula
Chardonnay 2012
Kooyong Faultline Mornington Peninsula
Chardonnay 2012
Jamsheed Moonambel Syrah 2012
Jamsheed Yarra Valley Yarra Glen Syrah
2012
Adam’s Rib Castagna The Red
Beechworth 2010
ref M-MX15151
16
To order
01438 740222
LEGENDS OF THE LOIRE
CHATEAU DE TRACY, POUILLY-FUME
The Estut d’Assay family’s imposing château and fine 32-hectare estate sit at
the heart of the appellation with which this name is synonymous. Leading
consultant and sauvignon expert Denis Dubourdieu now guides winemaking
here and his influence is demonstrable in the increased purity, raciness and
lifted aromatic profile of the wines. From Princes Ermites, a real bonne affaire
for fans of the taut, restrained, linear style of the domaine, to the
concentration and complexity of the special parcels, 101 Rangs and Haute
Densité, this is sauvignon blanc at its most poised. Joanna Locke MW
M-LO11261 Pouilly-Fumé ‘Les Princes Ermites’ 2013
If Château de Tracy can be said to have a second wine, this is it, ripe, fragrant and
balanced, and an excellent buy for lovers of fine sauvignon blanc. Now to 2017. 13%
£13.50 bottle 162 dozen
M-LO10601 Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2011 The challenging conditions of 2011, in particular its cool, wet summer, are not apparent
here. Poised and racy, but with plenty of stuffing. A lovely sauvignon nose, infused with
citrus and blackcurrant leaf leads into a richness on the palate, perfectly offset by fresh
acidity. Now to 2018. 13%
Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2012 £19 bottle £228 dozen
M-LO10871 Spring
was
the
dampener
in
2012,
but
a
long,
warm
dry
summer
and
a
harvest
that
took
place almost a month later than in 2011 has produced a stunning wine. Ripe and
concentrated with layers of citrus and stone-fruit flavours, always kept in check by that
trademark raciness. Now to 2019. 13%
M-LO11431 Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2013 £19 bottle A smaller crop, strictly selected, and still very youthful at this stage but with the promise
of a delicious blend of floral and spice notes waiting to evolve and a long, savoury finish.
Again, that seam of acidity guarantees an enjoyable evolution. Leave it in peace for a year
or so to get the process underway. 2016 to 2020. 13%
£228 dozen
Haute Densité du Château de Tracy 2012 £54 bottle M-LO11441 From vines planted at more than twice the usual density here, this exceptionally
concentrated sauvignon is raised in wooden barrels for nine months, with full lees contact.
It has a wonderful palette of white-fruit aromas and flavours culminating in a long, racy
finish. Now to 2020. 13%
£648 dozen
M-LO11451 101 Rangs, Château de Tracy 2012 £69 bottle The eponymous 101 Rows are planted on clay-and-flint (silex) soils at the summit of the
Tracy vineyard. Average vine age is 60 years. The grapes are very strictly selected and just
15% of the wine is matured for nine months in 500-litre oak barrels, the rest doing their
time in tank with extensive lees contact. A discreetly toasty note underlies the
concentration of this prestigious cuvée which, though rich and spicy, finishes dry and long.
Now to 2020. 13%
£828 dozen
CHATEAU DE TRACY VERTICAL CASE
£112
Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2011
ref M-MX15148
For advice
01438 741177
17
BURGUNDY PROFILE
JEAN-MARC VINCENT, SANTENAY
Of all the domaines in Burgundy we buy from, this is one for whom I have the utmost
admiration and respect because of the sheer hard work of Jean-Marc Vincent and his
wife, Anne-Marie. Jean-Marc, after living in Alsace, returned home to Santenay to take
back the family vineyards developed by his grandfather. A superb 1947 red Santenay
made by his grandfather inspired Jean-Marc, and gave him an insight into the huge
potential of the region. I was lucky enough to taste it in 2010 and it was still a vigorous,
magnificently rich and powerful wine.
There really is no magic in Burgundy. Excellent wine is made from low yields of well
looked-after vineyards by people who care and have a huge capacity for much hard
work. Jean-Marc aims for yields of 35hl/ha for his reds and 45/hl for his whites, very low
indeed for these modest appellations. The definition you can always taste in the wines
here is especially marked in 2012, a superb vintage of limited yields, concentrated fruit,
ripe tannins and lovely freshness. Toby Morrhall
Jean-Marc Vincent and his antique plough
WHITE
M-BU55721 Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Les Potets 2012 £25 bottle£300 dozen
I was astonished by the quality of this wine when I first tasted it. It is fine and firm with
excellent length of flavour and one of the best village white Santenays I have ever tasted.
Now to 2018. 13%
M-BU55751 Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Premier Cru Beaurepaire 2012 Ripe, succulent premier cru chardonnay with a seam of lemony freshness to balance the
ripeness. Now to 2018. 13%
Jean-Marc Vincent, Puligny-Montrachet Corvée des Vignes 2012
Appealing floral, honeysuckle-scented Puligny with a fresh, mineral palate and good length of
flavour for a village Puligny. Now to 2020. 13% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15152.
RED
M-BU55671 Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay 2012 Gorgeous ripe, balanced Santenay from this lovely 2012 vintage, replete with all the
elements to produce satisfying red Burgundy. Now to 2021. 13%
£25 bottle
Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Premier Cru Beaurepaire 2012 M-BU55711 A lovely hillside vineyard making quite soft and forward wines, rich and ripe yet with
enough substance for maturing well in bottle. Now to 2021. 13%
Jean-Marc Vincent, Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Bretterins 2012 When Jean-Marc first started making this wine it was on the dry side. But many changes
to viticulture, yield, date of harvest and vinification have transformed the wine into a
delicious, balanced mid-weight Burgundy with attractive intensity and freshness of flavour
marking its character rather than out-and-out power. Still a baby. 2017 to 2021. 13%
Available only in the mixed case M-MX15152.
JEAN-MARC VINCENT
EXPLORATION CASE
£169
Drink from 2017 or store to 2018
A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.
ref M-MX15152
18
To order
01438 740222
£300 dozen
PINOT NOIR
MUSE, MINX OR MINEFIELD?
All three words have been used to describe pinot noir, by growers, critics and consumers alike. Yet, as the number of pinots in this
edition of the Fine Wine List demonstrates, there has never been a better time to fall in love with this most seductive of grapes as
the world outside Burgundy begins to flex its muscles. New Zealand’s Otago is an established success and The Society has, for
many years, championed Hofstätter in northern Italy’s Adige Valley. In Oregon, a state with a long, if erratic history of pinot
growing, Eric Lemelson is rock solid. More recent revelations have been cool-climate Tasmania and the warmer south of Germany.
We dare not leave out Burgundy, of course. Sample them all in the mixed case.
M-US5821 Lemelson Thea’s Selection Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2012
The Society has championed Eric Lemelson’s fine Oregon pinots for many vintages now.
He owns a number of plots in the Willamette Valley, all organically farmed. Thea is not a
vineyard, but a selection of wines from each of them, artfully blended and designed to
express the subtleties of the vintage. This won’t disappoint, with dense notes of spiced red
berries – cranberry, redcurrant, strawberry – which will develop further with time or
decanting. Now to 2020. 14% Low stock.
M-NZ7521 Prophet’s Rock Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011
£25 bottle
Paul Pujol’s pinots come from Bendigo, a warmer, drier sub-region of Central Otago. They
tend to be full but firm, with a sleekness about them. The 2011 vintage had its moments
weather-wise, but a perfect end to the ripening process resulted in a fresh, aromatic,
elegant pinot, packed with delightful cherry and berry flavours and subtle truffle notes
beneath. Great wine for game, says Paul who also recommends decanting it to overcome
what he calls a certain shyness on first acquaintance. Now to 2020. 14%
£300 dozen
M-IT17271 Barthenau Vigna S Urbano, Weingut J Hofstätter 2010
£36 bottle
Though this part of Italy’s Adige Valley put the Tramin in gewürztraminer, it’s Hofstätter’s
beautifully crafted pinots that lift the region into the fine wine sphere. The mature
Barthenau vineyard lies on a cooler slope, where pergola training promotes good
circulation and longer ripening for added complexity. In the fine 2010 vintage, this is
especially good: velvety, sensuous and very long. Now to 2020. 13.5%
£432 dozen
Marienglas Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs, Weingut Aldinger 2012 £36 bottle
M-GE8631 Confusing Stuttgart with the Côte de Nuits seems unthinkable until you taste this silky,
gorgeous pinot noir. Marienglas is an old-vine plot at the heart of Untertürkheimer Gips,
an outstanding site in the Neckar Valley that takes its name from an exceptionally pure
form of gypsum that was mined here for use in religious paintings (‘Mary’s glass’). The
wine is exceptionally pure too, beautifully scented, finely textured and long on the palate.
Now to 2019. 13.5%
£432 dozen
Domaine Henri Gouges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Clos des
M-BU40231 Porrets-Saint-Georges, 2006
Add to the Gouges style – based very much on the deferred pleasure principle – the
leisurely evolution of the 2006 vintage and even Job might be challenged. The wines are
worth the wait. At nine years old, this still shows the structure of its commune but has
begun to display its softer, more sociable side. Typically firm still, but with plenty of
upholstery, this is a wine for lovers of classic Nuits. Now to 2017. 13%
£444 dozen
£37 bottle
Wineglass Bay Tasmania Pinot Noir, Freycinet Vineyard 2008
M-AU13791 Geoffrey Bull’s Freycinet Vineyard is in a sheltered spot on the east coast of Tasmania,
close to the aptly named Wineglass Bay. It has a track record of producing complex wines
that age very well. Made by Claudio Radenti, this is very serious pinot noir, gently
extracted and matured for a year in French barrique, with black-cherry, earthy flavours,
velvety tannins and outstanding length. Members should note that it must be labelled and
offered in the UK as ‘Wineglass Bay Pinot Noir’ for legal reasons, but it’s the same
gorgeous pinot, considered by locals as Australia’s very finest. Now to 2021. 14%
PINOT NOIR GRAND TOUR
£189
A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.
ref M-MX15155
For advice
01438 741177
19
A VIN FOR ALL SEASONS
FINE WINE FOR AUTUMN FOOD
As fresh and green turns into ripe, mellow and fruitful, it’s time to turn up the volume in the glass for the arrival of game, wild
mushrooms and earthy roots. In the second of our seasonal features we assemble some perfect partners from this List for lingering
sunny days, occasional nips in the air and the reliably heady flavours of autumn. Janet Wynne Evans, Fine Wine Editor
THE ALLOTMENT AND BEYOND: BEETS AND WILD MUSHROOMS
M-AU17391 Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013
Since it emerged from the domination of killer pickling vinegar, beetroot has been much
easier to match with wine which now just has the challenge of its sweet earthiness to
meet. ‘Beetroot’ is a tasting note that often pops up in youthful pinot noir. Mac Forbes’
Victorian beauty has the perfect balance of bright, berried fruit and fresh acidity and is just
hitting its stride. It will even cope with a dash of good and mature balsamic or sherry
vinegar, also delicious with roasted beets. Now to 2020. 13% Read more about this wine in
the Victoria Spotlight on page 16.
Château Bouscaut Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 2008 £29 bottle M-BW3521 Autumn in Bordeaux brings unfeasibly large ceps. These regal mushrooms should be
cooked very simply, with just a little butter, salt and fresh parsley, and a mellow white
Graves is the perfect foil. This one blends a generous 65% semillon, from an outstanding
harvest for the grape, with 35% sauvignon blanc. 40% is fermented in new barriques for a
subtle lick of oak that gives the fruit a chance to shine. Now to 2018. 13.5%
Read more about this wine in Tales of the Unexpected on page 22.
£348 dozen
THE FISH COUNTER: BREAM, BASS AND THE CALL OF THE WILD
M-SA10041 Fable Mountain Vineyards Jackal Bird, Western Cape 2012
Bream is extensively farmed now, but the call of the wild in late summer through to
the end of the year, is irresistible. Its stronger, gamier character blends well with
Mediterranean flavours – garlic, fennel, olives and Provence herbs – and a Rhône-inspired
white is perfect. In addition to the familiar southern varieties grenache blanc, roussanne
and viognier, this Cape star benefits from a high percentage of chenin blanc which makes
it even more versatile. Drink this year and next. 13% Read more about this wine in Tales of
the Unexpected on page 22.
Domaine Marc Colin, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Créots 2012
£27 bottle M-BU54931 Nothing beats the firm flesh and delicate flavour of wild bass. Simply grilled or fried with a
little butter and lemon, or poached and served with a classic butter sauce, it demands,
and deserves a patrician white Burgundy, and a Champion to boot. This pocket Puligny
from underappreciated Saint-Aubin will do it. Now to 2017. 13.5% Read more about this
wine in Fine Wine Champions on page 9.
20
To order
01438 740222
£324 dozen
THE BUTCHER’S HOOK: GAME ON
M-IT17891 Montefalco Sagrantino, Scacciadiavoli 2007
Come the Glorious Twelfth, what better match is there than Burgundy for the first of the
grouse? Chianti, says the River Café, where they braise the bird in it, adding thyme and
lavish amounts of butter and oil. Never again will grouse taste dry, and the deep-puce
sourdough crouton that absorbs all the juices is almost the best bit. Almost better with
the finished article is Umbria’s authentic and mighty sagrantino grape. Now to 2020.
15.5% Read more about this wine in Small Wonders on page 8. Find the grouse recipe at
thewinesociety.com/grouse
M-US5691 Roast pheasant and good claret make as happy a match as grouse and Burgundy.
However, if you braise your brace in red wine – advisable for older and potentially tougher
birds – you’ll be adding a few serious mushrooms, caramelised shallots and sweet roots.
For these, something gutsier and warmer is perfect. Strong by name, velvety and elegant
by nature, this Sonoma star brings a welcome touch of the Golden State to leaden latesummer days. Now to 2025. 14.5% Read more about this wine in Small Wonders on page 8.
SEASONAL DESSERTS: LATE SUMMER BERRIES, APPLES AND PEARS
M-SP8701 MR Mountain Wine, Málaga 2010 50cl
£12.50 bottle £150 dozen
The mate of choice for an autumnal crumble of sweet, ripe pears and sharp Bramley
apples. This fresh, naturally sweet muscat from the hills above Picasso’s birthplace is pitchperfect. If you like a pinch of cinnamon or nutmeg in your crumble, the wine will bring
these out too. Drink this year. 13.5% The 2013 follows. Read more about this wine in the
Small Wonders section on page 6.
M-BW4062 Half bottle of Château Raymond-Lafon, Sauternes 2010
The simultaneous sweetness and acidity of raspberries and blackberries and the dark
rasp of blackcurrants, demand a really focused dessert wine for a summer pudding. Step
forward a luscious, top-class Sauternes like this one, a semillon-rich blend with all the
honey, spice and raciness we expect. Try making your summer pudding with thickish
slices of brioche, which will work even better with the wine. Now to 2035. 13.5%
Read more about this wine in the Fine Wine Champions feature on page 10.
£13.50 half bottle
THE AUTUMN CHEESEBOARD: A CELEBRATION OF PLENTY
M-CH2211
Boizel Brut Millésimé 2002 £49 bottle £294 per six
Autumn is peak season for cheese lovers. The bloomy and washed rinds are on a second
wave which will continue until November. Artisanal goat’s milk cheeses will all soon play
second fiddle to a new generation of hungry kids so seize them now. Hard cheese made
from last year’s fragrant pasture are beginning to flex their muscles while the long-termers –
Cheddar, Mimolette, old Gouda – are tastier than ever after a second year’s maturation.
Champagne works its magic with all of these. Acidity, salt and butterfat, the three most
strident components of cheese, are met head-on by a prime fizz, which matches the first,
absorbs the second and cuts through the third like a well-honed rapier. Add the toasty fruit
of a mature vintage bottling like this beauty from Boizel and do, please, try this at home!
Drink this year, 12%. Read more about this wine in the Champagne Boizel feature on page 3.
FINE WINE AUTUMN DINING CASE £132
Château Bouscaut Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 2008
Domaine Marc Colin, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Créots 2012
Fable Mountain Vineyards Jackal Bird, Western Cape 2012
Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013
Montefalco Sagrantino, Scacciadiavoli 2007
ref M-MX15158
For advice
01438 741177
21
TEN TALES OF
THE UNEXPECTED
A relaxing glass of something familiar when the sun
hits the yard-arm is one of life’s undoubted pleasures,
but it’s good to push a few boundaries, occasionally.
The collection below embraces the new, celebrates
differences and avoids the obvious. We would neither
buy nor recommend any of these wines if we didn’t
think them very good indeed. We urge members to
put down that nice, relaxing glass and get some in!
Kevin Judd producing excellence at Greywacke
WHITE
M-NZ7541 Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013
Members already lap up Kevin Judd’s delicious Greywacke sauvignons and there’s nothing
in his pinot gris to scare the horses, but imagined associations with mass-produced pinot
grigio and all-too-real ones with icky, oversweet, clumsy new world versions of the grape
have made drinkers needlessly skittish. Weighty but balanced, off-dry but mouthwateringly
racy and fragrant but not overpowering, it’s the perfect foil for both spicy Thai and salty
Chinese cuisine. Drink this year and next. 14% Low stock.
Tyrrell’s Stevens Hunter Semillon 2011
M-AU17451 The intriguing thing about the warm Hunter Valley is its ability to produce poised, longlived semillons of terrific concentration and very modest alcohol. The style is unique:
waxy, lemony, becoming toasty with age and progessively honeyed. Tyrrell’s semillons
practically enjoy World Heritage status, so we are delighted to secure a UK exclusivity on
this single-vineyard wine, usually sold only at the property. It’s a bit far to go, even for an
explorer, so seize this opportunity to try its intense citrus flavours and lifted mineral notes
at home with roast chicken. Now to 2020. 11% Low stock.
M-SA10041 Fable Mountain Vineyards Jackal Bird, Western Cape 2012 £20 bottle £240 dozen
The original Tulbagh Mountain Estate is safe in the hands of its new American owners,
evidenced by smart new labels and a palpable step-up in quality. This blend of Swartland
chenin blanc with grenache blanc, roussanne, chardonnay and viognier has the feel of a
heady Rhône white but with cool Loire precision, and it’s already garnered five stars in the
influential Platter guide to South African wines. A Jackal Bird in the hand is an invaluable
standby that can cope with virtually any dish you care to serve it with. See below for its
equally intriguing red stablemate. Now and next year. 13% Find the food connection in A Vin
For All Seasons on page 20.
M-LO8191 Sancerre, Les Culs de Beaujeu, François Cotat 2008
When is a Sancerre not a Sancerre? When it’s from Cotat. Not for this highly individual
domaine the familiar gooseberry allure and fleeting lifespan of your average sauvignon
blanc. This is not a wine of the moment, but of years. It responds to decanting and is often
at its best several days later. So, it will come as a relief to members that this is the most
forward of Cotat’s three distinct crus, which also include Monts Damnés and Grande
Côte. Now nine years old, it combines intriguing richness on the palate with a thrilling,
rapier-like finish. Serve with luxury seafood this year and next. 13.5%
M-BW3521 Château Bouscaut Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 2008
There is nothing remotely odd about good white Graves, just the fact that so few people
drink it. At its most elegant, with a good wallop of ripe, blossomy semillon and the
discreet lick of an expensive barrel, it’s a delicious alternative to white Burgundy, often
at a less exalted price. The story here is the outstanding quality of semillon in this vintage
and the generous amount of it in the blend (65%, with sauvignon). The château favours it
with ripe Comté cheese. Now to 2018. 13.5% Find the food connection in A Vin For All
Seasons on page 20.
22
To order
01438 740222
RED
M-AU18111 Mazza Tempranillo 2010 £19 bottle £228 dozen
If tempranillo in its Spanish guise has palled, try the Aussie version. It had to happen, and, in
the hands of Iberiophile David Mazza, it’s not only working, but winning medals. This is his
seventh vintage, from vines grown in the Donnybrook region of Geographe in Western
Australia. With complex strawberry aromas and notes of leather and savoury spice on the
palate, this is very fine indeed, and its producer one to watch. Now to 2023. 14%
Fromm La Strada Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013
M-NZ8201 Marlborough, but not quite as we know it. Fourth-generation Swiss winemaker Georg
Fromm has been at work here since 1992, taming the exuberant fruit character that
defines the region’s wines, and aiming for a more restrained, European style. Three
distinctive single vineyards are bottled as such, but also contribute to the Strada blend.
This is a model of subtlety, balance and almost Burgundian elegance, and similarly suited to
game and wild mushooms now, perhaps duck later in the year and prime beef at any time.
Now to 2019. 13.5%
Fable Mountain Vineyards Night Sky, Coastal 2011
£20 bottle M-SA10011 The aptly named Night Sky is a Cape tribute to Châteauneuf, a gorgeous blend of 60%
syrah, 25% mourvèdre and 15% grenache that seems to coat the palate in velvet. Syrah
and mourvèdre are sustainably farmed on the original Tulbagh Mountain estate, while the
grenache is sourced from carefully chosen parcels in Swartland to contribute that dark,
fruit-cake southern-Rhône feel. A supremely elegant red with layers of black-fruit charm
and unmistakeable finesse on the finish. Now to 2018. 14.5%
£240 dozen
M-SP10301 B de Basilio Izquierdo, Rioja 2008
Breaking news of a coup for buyer Pierre Mansour! Basilio Izquierdo, revered head of
winemaking at CVNE, makes a very small amount of exquisite Rioja under his own label
which he has made available exclusively to The Society. The blend is 62% tempranillo, 34%
garnacha and 4% graciano, and just 350 cases were produced in 2008. Smoky, muscular,
rich and elegant, and crafted with food in mind, this is something very special. Decant an
hour before serving. Now to 2023. 13.5%
Quinta do Vesuvio, Douro 2011
M-PW4981 Members are already au fait with the allure of Douro table reds made from classic port
varieties, but it’s not every year that both tourigas (nacional and franca) achieve perfection.
It remains for the Symington family, owners of Vesuvio, to ensure that this harmony and
cooperation are reflected in the wine, which is especially supple and concentrated, but
beautifully fresh. A mere 1,200 cases were produced and not all of them ended up in
Stevenage. So snap up this exquisitely perfumed and refined red without delay but resist
opening it for a while if you can. Now to 2025. 14%
TALES OF THE UNEXPECTED CASE
£129
Château Bouscaut Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 2008
Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013
Tyrrell’s Stevens Hunter Semillon 2011
Fromm La Strada Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013
B de Basilio Izquierdo, Rioja 2008
Mazza Tempranillo 2010
ref M-MX15159
For advice
01438 741177
23
SERVICES
KEY
Members’ Reserves: optimum wine storage
Please refer to the main List for full descriptions
This purpose-built, temperature-controlled facility offers members access
to ideal storage conditions at one of the UK’s most competitive rates.
White Wines:
l Optimum storage at a steady average temperature of 13°C with
appropriate humidity of 65%
l An annual rental charge (currently £7.92 per dozen) that includes
VAT and insurance at replacement value
bone dry, eg. Muscadet
a little fuller than bone dry or with lower acidity
dry but rich or lighter and sweeter
medium dry, usually demi-secs
l Mix your own case for storage, or store pre-mixed cases
medium sweet, the driest of the pudding-style wines
l Remove a few bottles of a full case stored in Reserves and leave the
remainder to mature further
-
l View your stored wines online with updated drink dates
l Free
UK delivery when you are ready to receive your wines
thewinesociety.com/membersreserves
Vintage Cellar Plan – the simple and affordable way
to create a cellar of fine wine
Choose from a range of plans and then let The Society’s buyers do the
rest, using their expertise to seek out exceptional parcels of wine for
your future enjoyment. thewinesociety.com/vintagecellarplan
dessert grade sweetness eg. Sauternes
Alcohol levels
Alcohol percentage by volume is indicated for each wine or spirit. Occasionally
there will be slight variations from the published figure. Alcohol levels are only
a guide to a wine’s fullness; other factors such as tannin and extract in red wines
also contribute to overall impression of weight and the note on the wine
should make this clear. Units of alcohol are increasingly printed on wine labels.
A UK unit of alcohol is simply measured by multiplying alcohol by volume.
Thus a standard 13% 75cl bottle of wine will contain 9.7 units of alcohol.
volume %
Units per standard bottle
14.5
10.9
14
10.5
Fine Wine Advisers – here to help
13.5
10.1
Please contact the Fine Wine Advisers for help with wine selection,
food matching and any other wine-related subject. Visit thewinesociety.
com/advice or call 01438 741177 to find out more.
13
9.75
The Society’s Fine Wine List
Please note that many of these wines are available only in limited
quantities and will be sold on a first-come first-served basis. Prices are
correct at the time of publication, but The Society reserves the right to
amend them at any time during the life of this List.
12
9.0
11
8.25
10
7.5
9
6.75
The UK government
recommends that
men do not regularly
exceed 3-4 units
a day, and that
women do not
regularly exceed 2-3
units a day. It also
recommends that
pregnant women do
not drink alcohol.
Please refer to the main List for details on ordering from The Society.
Please note:
lM
embers wishing to store mixed cases in our Reserves facility are advised to take
note of the drinking windows highlighted in the wine note of the wines included in it.
lO
ur Stevenage Showroom doesn’t hold stocks of all the fine wines listed, so
pre-ordering is recommended.
Uncork with confidence
The Wine Society is a mutual organisation, so our members’ satisfaction
is paramount. If, for any reason, you haven’t enjoyed a wine we want to hear
about it and will happily offer a credit, a replacement or a refund.
thewinesociety.com/promise
This offer is open until Sunday 15th November, 2015 while stocks last.
FNAUG15

finewines

Transcription

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