Install Guide 2 Stroke - Motorized Bicycle Canada

PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE INSTALLATION
www.motorizedbicycle.ca
www.grubeeinc.com
2015 YuanDong
GT5A > 66cc / 47 x 38mm bore and stroke:
GT2A > 48cc / 40 x 38mm bore and stroke:
Engine Parts Kit:
Wide mt. / Sq. head angle fire, / 8.8 Allen head bolts:
Wide mt. / Sq. head angle fire, / 8.8 Allen head bolts:
This engine conforms to Canadian Off Road Small – Ignition regulation ORSSIEER
Kit Box Contents:
48cc or 66cc 2 cycle gas engine with dual needle bearing: Black Catalytic exhaust muffler; 2.5L Fuel Tank
plated inside; Drive chain; Chain guard; 44T Wheel Sprocket with 9 hole mounting hardware for 36
spoke wheel; Ball Bearing Chain idler: Push button clutch lever, NT Carburetor. CD Ignition module,
Throttle w/ integral kill switch: Tool kit with extra spark plug & gaskets; Extra mt. block, Extra head gasket:
Step #1. For warranty purposes and future parts reference record the engine serial number found on
the drive sprocket cover and also the engine model and date of manufacture; Save in your records:
Note: This is a “DIY” Do it Yourself Kit: The End User or the Installer becomes the vehicle manufacture
and assumes all laws of the land including any product liability. Do not use or buy this product if you
expect otherwise. Mechanical aptitude and working ability is required to perform this installation. Many “do
it yourself” backyard mechanics will find this project rewarding. A love of small engines is the only
required catalyst for this project. However, installation is sometimes best done by a professional auto or
motorcycle mechanic. WARNING: Do not use a donor bike with front and rear fenders as side struts
can come loose and lodge in wheel spokes causing danger to rider. Frame size should have a 70 degree
included V angle with down-tube of 28 to 38mm dia. and seat tube of 28 to 32mm dia. For sufficient engine
clearance select a bike with a seat tube length of at least 12 ½ inches measured between bottom of top tube
and top of pedal sprocket tube. Using a bike coaster brake only is not recommended as chain can break
leaving no brake at all. Use a bike with front and rear brakes to ensure best stopping ability; Remember, a
quality installation and daily maintenance is paramount to safe usage and long term satisfaction. You may
find many uses for this engine such as power for a stationary machine or for other off road machines. Have
fun and good luck on your motorized project. Happy trails to you from GruBee / China GAS and YD:
STEP #1
Mounting the Engine:
1. The engine mounts in a “Vee” frame. It is best to make sure all 4 engine studs are securely bottomed out
in the engine before mounting. Use a double nut “Jam Nut” procedure to tighten.
2. Consider using Masking or Duct Tape on the front down-tube & seat tube of your bicycle to protect the
paint finish while test fitting the engine to your donor bike. If the distance between the two frame tubes
exceeds the engine mounting span then additional spacers or welded brackets may be required. Mount
the engine to the seat tube first and then fit to the front tube. If frame tube fit is smaller than engine
clamp dia. use hard rubber shims to make fit securely.
1
FRONT
REAR
38mm
Dia.
Step #1. Install engine on seat tube first: Your engine will fit bicycle front down tube of 28 to 38mm dia.
See figure 1. below for example of installation on a bike with bigger tube than 38mm or a wide frame span..
Figure 1.
Bike with wide frame or big down tube: Use ¼” thick 1-1/8” x 2-1/2” steel plate with one hole in the
center for a bolt to go through a drilled hole in tube frame and two holes for cap screws to go into
engine block. Additional spacers maybe required depending on the donor bike. This plate kit is
include in your tool and spare parts bag.
Figure # 1
3. If the rear frame tube from the seat down to the pedal sprocket is too small to fit the rear engine mount, a
rubber shim can be made from an old bicycle rubber inner tube. This also helps reduce engine vibration.
Engine needs to have the carburetor set in a level position. Too much engine tilt can cause chain to hit
the drive cover and engine to not run correctly. It is best to have the drive chain to rear wheel
sprocket be as horizontal as possible with no more than 15 degrees max engine tilt. After the
desired engine location is determined mount the engine to frame. Appling LocTite thread lock is
recommended to avoid loosening due to vibration. Note: All threads are metric.
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Front Mounting Ideas you can make or buy:
a.) Flat Plate with Single U Bolt:
c.) Curved Plate with dual U bolt:
b.) Dog leg plate and single U bolt:
d.) Welded on Pedestal mount design.
d.) Pedestal front mount with rubber cushion for weld on application;
Rubber wrap should also be used to isolate the rear mount on the seat tube if an alum. frame is used.
Mount your engine as low as possible in the frame with the chain top side horizontal as possible:
Chain Wheel Sprocket Installation:
The Drive Chain Sprocket has a 36.9 mm dia. center hole and mounts on axel hub on the left side of the
rear wheel against the spokes dish side in. The sprocket must fit over the hub in a perpendicular plane with
the axle. This insures that your rear chain sprocket spins true with the rear bike wheel. *NOTE: On some
older bike axle hubs like on coaster brake models it may be required to slightly enlarge the sprocket center
hole to obtain a flush, and concentric fit next to the spokes. This is best done on a engine lathe by a
professional machinist.. . It is also recommended that the rear wheel be re-spoked to 12 ga. spoke wires to
insure long life. Most any Bike shop can do this operation for you. Applying thread adhesive and equal
tightening of the sprocket bolts. This keeps the chain sprocket true with axle and free from wobble while
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spinning. With bike upside down spin wheel and check sprocket for wobble. The chain can jump off the
sprocket if the sprocket installation is done incorrectly
1. For kit sprocket installation, locate sprocket on axel hub with curved side next to spokes, shinny side in.
If not pre sliced, cut the rubber isolator ring between holes in order to fit INSIDE the spokes and around the
axle. Install the split steel retainer plates next to the rubber isolator and insert 9 bolts.
2. Secure with 9 bolts compressing the chain sprocket to the spokes. Note: Rubber isolators may be needed
on both sides of sprocket for chain alignment.
3. The Chain Sprocket on the Wheel must align within 1/2 cm to the Chain Sprocket on the Engine.
4. The wheel chain sprocket is mounted with teeth-out and dish-in next to spokes. SEE FIG. #2
Place Sprocket’s bright chrome side inward next to spokes with dished side outward:
5 Steel
plates:
9 - 4.8
grade M6
bolts with
lock nuts
2 rubber
cushions.
Figure #2 - 9 slot - Chain Wheel Sprocket mounted concave dish side inward:
You will need to decide how to best place the rubber cushions; either on each side or on
one side of wheel spokes.
Below are some Kit Options available from your dealer:
Model #2 HD axle kit:
Wheel sprockets:
2.5L Chrome Tank
MotoCross Poo Poo Pipe
Chrome engine parts available:
POO POO PIPES
415HD Chain
Dual brake cable throttle
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HD axle kits w/ Drum or Disc brake:
Pre-installed in Wheel Rims.
Frame with built in gas tank
The drive chain can be easily shortened to the correct length. Special tools are required to remove and
replace the master link when shortening the chain by removing links. Ideally, both your pedal drive chain
and your engine drive chain should have the same tension.
A. Remove left rear cover plate from engine. This is the plate next to and under the clutch swing arm.
B
C.
D.
E.
F.
B. MASTER LINK
Your engine may come with a standard bike chain or with a Heavy Duty 415 chain depending on how it
was ordered by your dealer. Engine drive sprockets are different depending on chain size. The 415
chain uses a wide drive sprocket and the std. bike chain uses a narrow one. A 415 chain will work with a
narrow sprocket but a std. bike chain will not go over a wide drive sprocket. Note: Install chain with
master link clip on outboard side of the primary drive sprocket teeth. ( Note: wide tires larger than 2.125
may rub on a wide 415HD chain: )
Use supplied spark-plug wrench to turn engine crankshaft sprocket to feed chain around it. Do not pry
sprocket with a screwdriver or similar object.
Fit chain, measure and remove excess links to assure proper length. Be sure master link connection rides
on the inboard side of the primary drive sprocket or interference of link and sprocket can occur. Proper
chain length is when top chain has ¼ inch to ½” deflection with the bottom side of the chain loop tight.
Chain tension adjustments can be made by pulling rear wheel back if frame has straight slot wheel drop out.
If both chains can be adjusted equally then installing chain idler on the wheel strut may not be necessary.
At installer’s discretion the chain idler can be installed on either the pedal chain or engine drive chain.
Install supplied chain safety guard by attaching to engine and wheel axle struts.
Ignition Coil and Engine Kill Switch installation
A) Mount CD ignition coil on bike frame, close enough to attach coil wire to spark plug. Mount as far away
from exhaust pipe as possible to avoid heat damage to semiconductors in CDI module.
B) Attach CD ignition coil wires to same identical color coded wires coming from engine.
C) Install Engine Kill Switch Wire on throttle to white wire coming from engine. Install the other wire with
eyelet to a good frame ground not on paint. This will ground ignition and stop the engine when the kill
button switch is activated.
D) Route all wires away from engine exhaust heat. Secure wires with a plastic tie straps.
E) Be sure to remove the threaded collar from the Spark Plug before installing plug wire terminal.
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*!WARNING! Operation of engine without stop or kill switch installed could result in personal injury
if an emergency stop is required! The only alternate non recommended way of killing the engine is by
releasing the clutch lever with bike brakes on and engine at slowest idle.
Catalytic muffler;
Throttle with kill swt.
CDI ign.
NT Carb. Black AC.
Warning: In order to maintain engine warranty and to stay within engine emission standards set
forth by Canadian ECA do not change muffler or carburetor. Replace with original OEM parts only.
>>>To engine
>> To Lever on Handlebar
Longer lever for 2015
Rev. Push button Clutch lever: All GT5A have longer clutch arms; Clutch cable end locks in lever handle.
Clutch cable installation and adjustment:
A) Install clutch lever to left side of handlebar and attach cable end barrel into lever slot hole.
B) Squirt oil down the cable sleeve: Route clutch cable through the ball-mount on motor with the big spring
around the cable jacket and ahead of the ball mount. The big spring serves as a cable heat shield.
C) Insert cable wire through small spring and route through clutch arm and attach brass cable-end and
screw. Adjust cable tension to allow very slight play in arm. Handlebar clutch lever must be in the
released or outward position to complete this operation.
D) Activate lever a few times, and check clutch arm for slight free play: About 1/16” engine clutch arm
free play is required with the handle bar lever in the released in what is called clutch engaged
position or the engine will fail to start if cable is too loose or if too tight. Re-adjust as required.
E) Basics of clutch operation: The handlebar lever pulls the cable that moves the engine clutch arm. In turn
the clutch arm pushes a rod through the motor that pushes the clutch plate out. ( similar to a car clutch.)
Releasing the handle bar lever engages the clutch and provides engine torque to the drive chain or to start
the engine. The clutch friction allows engine to start, and also transmits engine torque to the drive chain.
When the bike is in the pedal mode the handle bar clutch lever is locked inward in the catch notch. The
bike then operates in default as it would without any engine. Periodic clutch adjustment is necessary to
maintain efficient operation *NOTE: Cut off excess cable from clutch arm, before operation, to avoid
possible interference with pedals, chain, your legs, etc.
See Figure #4.
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Clutch arm:
Clutch cable Note brass screw lock at the end;
Note that lever is parallel with side
of engine when clutch is engaged.
Figure #4 If Clutch cable is not adjusted correctly the engine will not start. Check for slight clutch
cable arm free play with handle bar lever released which would be in the clutch engaged position.
Be sure to check all nuts and bolts on Engine and end of muffler for proper tightness.
Carburetor and Throttle Installation
OPTIONAL NEW STYLE THROTTLE
with kill switch:
Kill switch; one wire goes to white wire
from engine and the other to frame grd.
Drill small hole in handle bar for pin lock.
Install CDI module on down tube as far away from engine heat as possible.
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Blk. wire from engine to Blk. of CDI
Blue wire from engine to Blue of CDI
For CDI Color code is very important:
Like to Like.
Two kill switch wires can go to either of the remaining 2
empty holes of the CDI terminals: Color code not important.
1. First install Blue & Black wires from engine magneto to same color CDI wires.
Warning: Do not hook up backwards or damage will occur to the CDI.
2. Next install the throttle handle kill switch wires into the 2 remaining open holes of the
2 CDI wire terminals.
3. Push the clear rubber protectors over the twin connections and tape with black
electrical tape.
4. The remaining white wire from the engine is not needed unless you want to run a small
wattage 6V headlight but it’s not recommended as it will rob engine ignition power so
is really best to tape this wire up securely or just snip it off at the engine exit plug.
5. To keep water out of the magneto box use a heat shrink tube over the wire sheathing
and seal exit plug with RTV.
White
330 to 360
ohms
Ensure all bullet
connectors are
soldered on good.
New style 4 hole magneto
The “Magneto” is the heart of the ignition system and is activated by rotation of a permanent
magnet rotor. When a N/S magnetic flux field rotates past the magneto coil an induced
voltage is sent to the CDI via blue / black wires so as to fire the spark plug at the right time.
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When installing a new magneto sand off
varnish from back side to ensure a good ground
path.
Remove varnish here
Old style 6 hole magneto
Engine firing timing is not adjustable; Position of p/m rotor is fixed to ensure correct timing.
If engine does not fire at start up check all connections. Check if kill switch has an unwanted
ground. Make sure magneto has a good ground and not insulated by varnish.
This engine is made in compliance to all applicable standards for model year 2014
under the Canadian Off–Road Small Spark Ignition Engine emission regulation for
engine family EJCYS.0661YD if 66cc and EJCYS.0481YD if 48cc.
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10
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NT Carburetor installation
Unwrap throttle from carb. Install carb. on intake tube and choke lever on handlebar.
Old style NT & New style Speed Carburetors
Use this procedure for attaching throttle cable to carburetor slide valve:
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The small stop on the cable wire end slides through the long groove on the slide valve. Early slide
valves were made of brass and later ones are made of black plastic. Beware that there are 2 sizes of black
plastic slide valves. The one best to use with the 66cc is 14.95mm in dia. but has to have an appropriate
carb. housing to accommodate the larger valve.
Note: Speed Carburetors have fuel
shut off valve and bowl drain petcock;
Also these carbs. have larger 14.95mm
throttle slides and outlet openings
than found in X brand carbs. The
square red or black Air Cleaners are
interchangeable with small white or
black round versions.
.
Be sure to check carb. air cleaner attach screws for tightness before installing engine:
Air cleaner screws coming loose and entering engine is not covered by warranty;
( Note component positions in pictures; Needle clip is factory set in second slot: )
The spring is placed inside the cylinder slide and is compressed when the throttle is twisted. Be sure it is
seated all the way inside the cylinder. The spring then forces the throttle to return. For this to work properly
the throttle must twist freely on the handle bar in both directions prior to the cable being installed.
A) Install twist grip throttle on right side of handlebar end. On some handle bars it may be necessary to
ream out the handle ID to fit the bar so that the throttle will twist freely. It never hurts to add a few
drops of light wt. oil to let trickle down the cable inside the full length of sheathing.
B) After installing cable inside the carburetor you are ready to mount it on engine intake tube and tighten
clamp screw. Mount engine so carburetor sets as level as possible.
1. Note: Factory Sealed Air /Fuel ratio screw. Factory set by turning adjustment screw to closed
position and then opened ¾ turns outward or less than 1 full turn before it was sealed with epoxy.
2. Jet Needle: Carb. comes with clip set in position #2 from the top. Different positions may be
required to make your engine run correctly depending on altitude above sea level and fuel economy
desired. If a more rich gas mixture is required you can move the jet pin “pac man” clip to the next
lower position notch.
Fuel Tank installation
A) Attach fuel petcock to tank. Use Teflon tape to seal threads. Careful not to strip threads.
B) Mount tank on bike top crossover frame with two supplied brackets and nuts.
C) Attach fuel line from tank to carburetor. Best to use USA made fuel line like GoodYear SAE 30-7
4.8mm obtained from local automotive stores like AutoZone. Factory supplied clear plastic line gets
hard over a period of time. *NOTE: Filters are contained in the petcock and in the carburetor inlet. If
engine runs poorly clean the valve filter as residue from the tank may have clogged it.. It is highly
recommend that a tank liner coating be applied inside the tank before installation. This product is called
Kreme and is available from motorcycle dealers;
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D) Good idea to use a rubber strip to
cushion the tank on top tube.
IMPORTANT: PLEASE READ THIS:
Gas and Oil Mixture for Fuel ratio
The engine is a 2 cycle design, therefore, a gasoline/oil mixture is necessary. During the break-in period (1st
2 tanks of fuel ), the ratio is 16 to 18 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. After the break-in period, the ratio can
increased to 25 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. *NOTE: Synthetic 2 Stroke Oil can also be used to insure
proper engine lubrication. Consult your WD dealer for his recommendations for your country and area.
!WARNING! Remember safety first: Wipe up any spilled fuel. NEVER fuel a hot engine or
smoke while fueling. This could result in sudden fire, personal injury. Always move your motorized
bike at least 10 feet from any fueling area before attempting to start it. Never leave the tank fuel cap
off after fueling as rain water will contaminate the fuel and cause engine failure.
MAINTENANCE SECTION
# 1. How to Adjust Clutch if signs of slipping or squealing are encountered :
A)
B)
C)
D)
E)
F)
G)
H)
Disengage clutch by pulling handle bar clutch lever inward and lock into catch lock.
Remove right side engine clutch cover and remove small locking screw on center *Clutch Adjust Nut.
Pull clutch arm on left rear engine inward. Back off *Clutch Adjust Nut ¼ turn counterclockwise.
Release clutch lever and check for slight clutch arm 1/16” free-play on opposite side of engine. Readjust
*Clutch Adjust Nut as required to get required 1/6” clutch arm free play.
Tighten *Clutch Adjust Nut on clutch plate clockwise until just snug.
Then re-install small locking screw in outer edge of *Clutch Adjust Nut .
Good idea to place a small gob of grease at gear mesh area. Use grease sparingly! Then replace cover.
Squirt light grade oil down clutch cable sheathing to reduce friction and make for easy lever pull.
*Clutch Adjust Nut
2. Carburetor
Depending on dusty riding conditions, clean air filter every 5 to 20 hours of operation by removing the filter
cover to access the screen and element. Wash element with a degreasing agent such as Simple Green™ or
Purple Stuff™. Be sure element is completely dry before re-assembly. IMPORTANT: If engine runs
poorly clean tank shut off value filter and if that is not the problem check for a clogged up muffler.
MAINTENANCE SECTION Continued:
#3. 3 pt. Spark Plug
Remove spark plug and inspect for excess carbon build up. Clean, re-gap to .0.036” of an inch if necessary.
Check plug after every 20 hours of operation. New spark plugs are available from your selling dealer. Be
careful using aftermarket spark plugs as heat range and threads differ greatly. An extra plug is included:
When replacing the spark plug in an Angle Fire head it’s best to use a 3 point electrode spark plug P/N
Z4JC to ensure total combustion. ( Ask your selling dealer for it by part number. )
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#4. Exhaust system
After 50 hours of operation check exhaust pipe for excessive oil and carbon build-up. If muffler is clogged
your dealer has a replacement. Make sure attaching nuts are tight and no exhaust leaks are occurring. Be
sure to use supplied support strap to secure exhaust muffler to a solid anchor point on bike frame or engine.
A) To remove inside catalytic exhaust insert loosen the retaining screw on end cap and remove.
B) Pull cap and baffle out of pipe. Note: Some catalytic inserts are welded in and cannot be removed. If
you need a replacement muffler contact your dealer. 2010 to 2014 models have an air shield welded on
the outside of muffler again per EPA rulings. This insures hot run so catalysis can clean the exhaust.
C) Clean with degreaser, rinse and dry. Re-assemble: File muffler attach flange to have smooth flat surface.
D) Always use a new exhasut gasket and good idea to use double nuts on muffler attach studs;
*NOTE: Excessive periods of low speed operation, idling or leaving fuel petcock in the “on” position during
shut down periods may cause the muffler to become clogged with unburned fuel.
#5. Drive Chain: 410 is standard and HD 415 is an option.
Every time bike is ridden check the tension of the drive chain by:
A) Rolling to bicycle forward to remove slack from the bottom of the chain.
B) Find the center and push downward on the top of chain while measuring the deflection.
C) Tighten chain if deflection is more than ½ inch.
#6. Head Bolts Tighten all fasteners after each five hours of operation. Most important to check
Cylinder head bolts : Tighten in a X pattern to 10 ft/lb using a torque wrench. A two piece cylinder and
head design engine requires head bolts be kept tight. Important: Check head bolts before each and every
long ride, vibration can cause them to loosen and blow a head gasket. Caution: Do not over torque or head
bolts may break off. ( Twisted or broken head bolts due to over tightening is not covered by warranty. )
#7. Right side gears: Remove cover plate and keep small amount of heavy grease on gear train.
Do not over grease as leaks will occur and also may adversely affect clutch operation. Regular
greasing if required will help reduce gear wear and keep gear train quiet.
#8. Left side drive: Routinely pack grease in the shaft hole behind 10T sprocket and also in cover
hole. This will also help deduce noise.
Items, tools and extra service parts in tool kit; Typical Engine ID plates:
General Information
Obey all traffic regulations. Always wear a helmet while riding. Remember that you are riding a motorized
bicycle and other traffic may not be able to see you. Never operate your motorized bicycle on a pedestrian
through way or sidewalk while the engine is operating. Never operate your motorized bicycle in an unsafe
manner. Check local and state laws before riding on streets & wear a helmet.
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ENGINE STARTING & OPERATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: PLEASE READ THIS:
Gas and Oil Mixture for Fuel ratio
The engine is a 2 cycle design, therefore, a gasoline/oil mixture is necessary. During the break-in period (1st
gallon of fuel), the ratio is 18 parts gasoline to 1 part 2 cycle oil. After the break-in period, the ratio is
increased to 25 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. The engine crankshaft bearings are lubricated from the oil in the
gas mix. A rich break in mixture ensures bearings will not cease. !WARNING! Remember safety
first: Wipe up any spilled fuel. NEVER fuel a hot engine or light a cigarette while fueling. This could
result in sudden fire, personal injury. Always move your motorized bike at least 10 feet from any
fueling area before attempting to start it. Never leave the tank fuel cap off after fueling as rain water
will contaminate the fuel and cause engine failure.
Step #1. After filling tank with the correct oil/gas mix open the tank fuel valve. Fuel line is in the open
position when the small lever is pointed down. Move choke lever to the on position. This is the small lever
at the end of the choke cable All the way Up the choke is on. All the way Down the choke is off. Move
progressively downward to off position during engine warm up period.
Engine Starting procedure for Lever Clutch Models:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Pull the handlebar clutch lever inward, to disengage the engine from the rear wheel.
Pedal; (down hill if possible for first start)
A mid frame or rear wheel bike stand is helpful to start the engine in place.
Let out the clutch lever all the way out and continuing to pedal. The result is a direct engine hook up
via the friction clutch with the rear wheel via chain and sprocket. The engine will now start
spinning, Pedal until motor starts. Accelerate slowly at first..
5. Twist throttle to increase speed, reverse twist throttle to decrease speed. To stop,
disengage clutch and apply brakes. To accelerate, pedal and release clutch while opening throttle.
6. Adjust choke to the smoothest engine running position.
7. After warm up push choke lever all the way down. If engine races too fast, or too slow,
pull clutch lever and lock in the notched catch, stop and adjust engine rpm.
8. If the rpm needs adjusting, turn the idle adjust screw (left side of carburetor) in or out
slowly to obtain the proper idle speed of about 1400 rpm +/- 100 rpm
To correctly break the engine in, Do not exceed 15 mph or 30 min. continual running
for the first 50 miles during engine brake in. Engine will have 15 to 20% more power after break in.
9. To stop the engine, push Kill switch and turn off gas valve at tank. Turning off the gas will prevent
fuel from being siphoned from tank. Warning Note: Never leave the tank gas valve in “open” position”
when engine is not running or the bike is in storage.
10. After or before each ride check all mounting fasteners, including hd. Bolts, axle and brakes.
11. Warning Note: Engine lock up or piston seizure due to improper gas / oil mixture will not be
covered by factory warranty. This the responsibility of the owner / operator to make sure the
gas and oil is mixed correctly. It is recommended that a temp gauge be installed on the handlebar
sensing off an engine head bolt. Should the engine temp. approach 250C let idle for 1 minute and shut off to
cool. Shutting off an engine ran too hot can seize the piston to the cylinder wall.
YuanDong SkyHawk mfg. > ENGINE WARRANTY POLICY:
Proper use and maintenance is required for the continued enjoyment of your Bike Engine. This
product has been manufactured to strict quality control standards. For product warranty policy contact
your selling dealer. Warranty approval is subject to dealer inspection and only the defective part or parts
will be replaced, not the complete kit or engine. Only the defective part or parts should be returned to the
selling dealer for warranty replacement consideration. Your dealer may require you to obtain his
authorization first before returning defective parts. Include description and picture of failure with as many
details as possible. Note: Seized pistons due to improper gas / oil mix or shipping damage due to carrier
neglect is not warranty. Using gas with more than 10% ethanol causing engine to run hot and seize up is not
warranty. Hooking up CDI wires backwards causing a failure is not warranty! Observe color code when
installing these wires from engine to the CDI module. Work sober and ride safe.
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When replacing the spark plug in an Angle Fire head it’s best to use a 3 point electrode spark plug P/N
Z4JC to ensure total combustion.
If present be sure to remove the threaded collar
from plug before pressing on plug wire terminal.
All attempts are made to do this at the factory
before shipment but sometimes they forget to do it.
OPTIONAL COMPONENTS
Chrome parts for engine dress up are available from your selling dealer;
Long & Short expansion chamber racing exhaust
Improved catalytic muffler for 2010 /
2014 EPA requirements with twice the
size of palladium insert plus an outside air
shield;
Two psc. STREET POO POO PIPE
available in dealer service parts.
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Wanna Pedal?
Just pull
pins and
you can pedal
freely.
Motorized
Bike:
>2The
ProShop
Way:
Wanna Motor? just stick’em back in.
Like a 4 stroke purr instead of the wingding sound of a 2 stroke then why not build a
4 cycle bike using a Huasheng 49cc engine and a GruBee 4G T belt transmission?
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Should you be lucky enough to find a dealer who has one of our GT2 special bikes made for
motorizing you can’t go wrong. These bikes have thicker frames along with GruBee HD axles with
hub mounted sprockets utilizing a 3 brake system or for 2015 Disc brakes and built in gas tank.
GT2A frames w/ rubber mt. are now available
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Hot setup!
SkyHawk built in gas tank
frames now with disc
brake capability!
“New for 2015”
GTA-150 DB
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22
2.5 liter gas tank
plated inside to
help reduce rust
from occurring;
4
44T REAR WHEEL
Drive Sprocket
23
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SECTION SUR L’ENTRETIEN
# 1. Comment ajuster la pédale d’embrayage en cas de patinage ou couinement :
A) Débrayez la pédale d’embrayage en tirant la manivelle vers l’intérieure et verrouiller.
B) Enlevez le moteur droit et le couvert de la pédale d’embrayage et dévissez l’écrou de verrouillage au
centre qui se nomme « Clutch Adjust Nut »
C) Tirez la manivelle de la pédale d’embrayage du moteur arrière de gauche vers l’intérieur. Ajustez
l’écrou un quart de tour dans le sens antihoraire.
D) Libérez la manivelle de façon à vérifier s’il a un petit jeu d’environ 1/16eme de pouce de l’un ou l’autre
cote du moteur. Sinon réajustez l’écrou de façon à en créer un.
E) Resserrez l’écrou sur le couvert de la pédale d’embrayage dans le sens horaire jusqu’à tant qu’elle soit
solide.
F) Replacez l’écrou de verrouillage sur le bord de la pédale d’embrayage.
G) Il serait une bonne idée de placer un peu de graisse sur le maillage. Utilisez avec modération! Replacer
le couvert.
H) Aspergez de l’huile de qualité légère sur le câble de la pédale d’embrayage pour réduire la friction et la
tension.
I) #2. Carburateur
L’Agence nationale de protection de l'environnement ordonne que la vis de mélange soit scellé avec de la
colle époxy au moment de la confection pour éviter la manutention. Le filtre aura besoin d’être nettoyer a
tous les 5 à 20 heures tout dépendant la condition des routes utilisées. Ceci se fait en enlevant le couvert
pour avoir accès aux filtres et éléments. Lavez l’élément avec un agent dégraisseur comme Simple
GreenTM ou Purple StuffTM. Assurez-vous que l’élément est complètement sec avant de réassembler.
IMPORTANT: Si le moteur ne sonne pas bien, nettoyer le filtre de la vanne d’arrêt.
#3. La fiche à 3 points électrodes (P/N Z4JC) pour étincelle accrue et durée de vie utile.
Retirez la bougie and cherchez un excès de charbon. Nettoyez et replacez en assurant une ouverture de
0.036” d’un pouce si nécessaire. Revérifiez à tous les 20 heures d’opérations. Les bougies sont disponibles
chez votre distributeur. Évitez les bougies après-vente, la gamme de chaleur and le filetage diffère
grandement. Une bougie supplémentaire est incluse.
#4. Système d’échappement
Après 50 heures d’opération, vérifiez pour un excès d’huile ou charbon dans le tuyau d'échappement. Si le
silencieux est bouché, remplacer le. Assurez-vous que les écrous d’attachement sont serrés pour éviter des
fuites. Les sangles de support incluses devraient être ancrées à un point solide sur le cadre du vélo ou le
moteur.
A) Pour enlever l’encart catalytique, desserrer la vis sur le capuchon and enlevé.
B) Retirez le capuchon et le baffle du tuyau. Note: Quelques encarts catalytiques sont soudés et ne
peuvent être enlevés. Dans ce cas un nouveau tuyau d’échappement peut être acheté de votre
distributeur.
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C) Nettoyez avec du dégraisseur, rincer et sécher. Réassemblé: Limer le tuyau et rattacher le rebord à la
surface lisse.
D) Toujours utilisez un nouveau joint d'échappement et des écrous doubles sur les goujons du moteur.
*NOTE: Des périodes excessives de fonctionnement à basse vitesse, de marche au ralenti ou laisser le
robinet de carburant ouvert lorsque le moteur n’est pas en marche pourrait causer un blocage de carburant
dans le tuyau d’échappement
#5. Chaîne de transmission: la 410 est standard et la HD 415 est optionnelle.
A chaque fois que la bicyclette est utilisée, vérifiez la tension de la chaine de transmission:
A) En roulant la bicyclette afin d'enlever le mou de la partie inférieure de la chaîne.
B) Trouvez le centre et poussez vers le bas sur le sommet de la chaîne tout en mesurant la déviation.
C) Serrez la chaine si la déviation est supérieure à 1/2 pouce.
#6. Boulons à tête
Serrez toute la visserie après chaque tranche de cinq heures de fonctionnement. Les plus importants sont les
boulons de culasse: serrez dans un modèle d’un X à 10 pi / lb avec une clé dynamométrique. Un moteur à
deux cylindres et culasse nécessite les boulons à tête doivent être bien ferme en tout temps. Important:
Vérifiez les boulons de tête avant chaque long trajet, les vibrations peuvent les amener à se desserrer et faire
sauter un joint de culasse. Attention: Ne pas trop serrez les boulons, ils peuvent briser. (Boulons à tête
torsadés ou cassés a force de serrage excessif ne sont pas couverts par la garantie.)
#7. Engrenage latéral de droite:
Enlevez la plaque de couverture et garder une petite quantité de grosse graisse sur le train d'engrenages. Ne
pas trop la graisser ceci peut causer des fuites et peuvent également nuire au fonctionnement de la pédale
d'embrayage. Le graissage régulièrement aidera à réduire l'usure et le bruit du train d’engrenage.
#8. Engrenage latéral de gauche: Insérez de la graisse régulièrement dans le trou du fût derrière le
pignon 10T et aussi dans le trou de bague du couvercle. Cela permettra également de réduire le bruit.
Un autocollant "certifié de L'ANPE 2015"; articles, outils et pièces de rechange supplémentaires dans
la trousse à outils; plaques d'identification typiques du moteur.
Informations générales
Assurez-vous de respecter tous les règlements de la circulation. Portez toujours un casque de sécurité lorsque
vous roulez. N'oubliez pas que vous êtes monté sur un vélo motorisé et les autres véhicules motorisés
peuvent ne pas être en mesure de vous voir. N’utilisez jamais votre bicyclette motorisée sur une voie
piétonnière ou sur le trottoir pendant que le moteur est en marche. Vérifiez les lois locales et de l'État avant
de rouler dans les rues.
DÉMARRAGE DU MOTEUR ET PROCÉDURE DE FONCTIONNEMENT
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IMPORTANT: S'IL VOUS PLAÎT LIRE CECI: mélange de gaz et d’huile : rapport proportionnel
Le moteur est une conception à deux temps, donc, un mélange essence / huile est nécessaire. Pendant la
période de rodage (1er gallon de carburant), le mélange est 18:1 ou 2 gaz-huile. Après la période de rodage,
le mélange augmente à 25:1 gaz-huile. Les paliers de vilebrequin du moteur sont lubrifiés avec l'huile dans le
mélange de gaz. Une pause riche en mélange assure que les roulements ne saisiront pas.
ATTENTION! N'oubliez pas la sécurité en premier: Essuyez tout déversement de carburant. NE
JAMAIS alimenter un moteur chaud ou allumer une cigarette pendant le remplissage. Cela pourrait
provoquer un incendie soudain ou des blessures corporelles. Toujours déplacer votre vélo motorisé
d’au moins 10 pieds de toute zone de ravitaillement avant de tenter de le démarrer. Ne laissez jamais le
bouchon du réservoir de carburant ôté ceci pourrait laisser entrer l’eau de pluie qui peut contaminer
le carburant et endommager le moteur.
1ere étape : Après avoir remplis le réservoir avec le bon mélange gaz/huile, ouvrez la vanne du réservoir de
carburant. La conduite de carburant est ouverte lorsque le petit levier est orienté vers le bas. Déplacez le
levier de starter sur la position « on », c'est le petit levier à l'extrémité du câble de starter. Déplacé jusqu’en
haut, le starter est « on », jusqu’en bas, le starter est « off ». Déplacez progressivement vers le bas à la
position hors tension pendant que le moteur se réchauffe.
Procédures de démarrage du moteur de modèle « levier d’embrayage »
1. Tirez la manivelle de la pédale d'embrayage vers l'intérieur, pour débrayer le moteur de la roue arrière.
2. Pédalez; (vers le bas d’une colline si possible pour le premier démarrage)
3. Un cadre moyen ou une béquille de roue arrière serait utile pour démarrer le moteur en place.
4. Laissez la manivelle de pédale d'embrayage ouverte et continuez à pédaler. Le résultat est un branchement
direct de moteur avec la roue arrière via le frottement de la pédale d’embrayage par l'intermédiaire de la
chaîne et du pignon. Le moteur va commencer à tourner, pédalez jusqu’à tant qu’il démarre. Accélérez
lentement pour débuter...
5. Tourner l’accélérateur vers le haut pour augmenter la vitesse, torsion inverse pour diminuer la vitesse.
Pour arrêter, désengagez la pédale d'embrayage et utilisez les freins. Pour accélérer, pédalez et relâchez la
pédale d'embrayage lors de l'ouverture du papillon de gaz.
6. Ajustez le levier de starter sur la position où le moteur sonne le plus doux.
7. Après le réchauffement, poussez le levier de starter à fond vers le bas. Si le moteur s'emballe trop vite, ou
trop lentement, tirer la pédale d'embrayage et verrouiller le levier dans la prise crantée, arrêter et réajustez les
RPM du moteur.
8. Si les RPM du moteur ont besoin d’être réajusté, insérez or desserrez la vis de ralenti régulateur (côté
gauche du carburateur) lentement pour obtenir la bonne vitesse de ralenti d'environ 1400 tours par minute + /
- 100 RPM. Pour roder le moteur proprement, ne pas dépasser 15 MPH ou 30 min. de fonctionnement
continu pour les 50 premiers miles. Le moteur développera plus de puissance après avoir été rodé.
9. Pour arrêter le moteur, poussez l’anti-démarreur et éteignez robinet de gaz au niveau du réservoir. Fermer
le gaz évitera que le carburant soit siphonné du réservoir. Avertissement: Ne jamais laisser le robinet de gaz
du réservoir en position "ouverte" lorsque le moteur n'est pas en marche ou le vélo est en entreposage.
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10. Après ou avant chaque départ vérifier toutes les vis de montage, y compris les boulons de tête, les
essieux et les freins.
11. Avertissement: le verrouillage du moteur ou une saisie du piston dû à un mauvaise mélange gaz /huile ne
seront pas couverts par la garantie du fabricant. Cette responsabilité du propriétaire de s'assurer que le gaz et
l’huile soient mélangés correctement.
YuanDong SkyHawk mfg. > POLICE DE GARANTIE DU MOTEUR:
Une utilisation et un entretien correct sont nécessaires au bon fonctionnement de votre moteur de
vélo. Ce produit a été fabriqué selon les normes strictes de contrôle de qualité. Pour la politique de
garantie du produit contactez votre distributeur. Approbation de garantie est soumise à l'inspection
du fabricant et seule la ou les pièces défectueuses seront remplacées, non pas le kit complet ou le
moteur. Seule la ou les pièces défectueuses doivent être retournées au distributeur à fins d'examen de
remplacement sous garantie. Votre distributeur pourrait avoir besoin de votre autorisation avant de
retourner les pièces défectueuses. Inclure une description et une photo de l'échec avec autant de détails
que possible. Remarque: pistons saisis dues à un mauvais mélange gaz/huile ou de dommages causés à
la négligence transporteur n'est pas garantie.
Lors du remplacement de la bougie dans « Angle Fire Head » il est préférable d'utiliser une fiche à 3
points électrodes (P/N Z4JC) pour étincelle accrue et durée de vie utile.
Ne pas retirer le bouchon fileté
Nouveau pour 2015 > Bougie va plus cap de laiton fileté existants.
Ne pas déboucher en laiton.
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