Breakfast - Foodservice and Hospitality Magazine

Transcription

LABOUR PAINS
How are foodservice
employers responding
to an HR shortfall?
FROM THE
OTHER SIDE
Find out what hospitality
students really think
of the industry
FRESHLY
SQUEEZED
Breakfast
Consumers flock
to juice bars
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VOLUME 47, NUMBER 1 MARCH 2014
CONTENTS
Features
12 FRESH START
38 SMOKIN’ HOT
The breakfast daypart is booming
as consumers opt to pay more for
premium nosh in the morning
By Liz Campbell
F&H offers tips to sourcing and installing top-notch smokers and barbecues
By Denise Deveau
ILLUSTRATION BY JEM SULLIVAN
26 THE GAP
Faced with a growing labour shortage,
operators have no qualms about bringing on temporary foreign workers and
expanding their recruitment horizons
By Jackie Sloat-Spencer
33 CHANGING OF THE GUARD
Is it time to rethink the way hospitality
graduates are treated in the workforce?
By Bruce McAdams & Mike von Massow
FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM
Departments
2 FROM THE EDITOR
5 FYI
11 FROM THE DESK
OF ROBERT CARTER
41 POURING FOR PROFITS:
44 CHEF’S CORNER:
Juice Bars
Murray McDonald,
Fogo Island Inn, N.L.
FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2014
1
FROM THE EDITOR
For daily news and announcements: @fsworld on Twitter
and Foodserviceworld on Facebook.
CULTURE CLASH
“Plus ça change, plus c’est la même
chose.” (‘The more things change,
the more they stay the same.’)
— Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr
T
“
If finding and keeping
labour is such a big
headache, and if the
same problem exists
today that has existed
for the past 50 years,
perhaps it’s time
to take a different
approach to solving
the problem.
”
2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2014
ake a look back through past
issues of F&H, and it quickly
becomes clear that, despite the
passage of time, some things never
change. Take the topic of labour, for
example. As long as restaurants have
existed in Canada, operators have typically viewed staffing as their biggest challenge (read: headache). Unlike in Europe,
where service has always been considered an honourable profession, and
even a vocation, the opposite rings true
in North America. Sure, thousands of
Canadians enter the foodservice industry, but, for many, it’s a pit stop on the
way to something else. And, whether we
point the finger at low wages forced by
economic necessity, a transient workforce or serious shortages, the reality is
clear: attracting and retaining labour
continues to be problematic.
Still, if finding and keeping labour
is such a big headache, and if the same
problem exists today that has existed
for the past 50 years, perhaps it’s time
to take a different approach to solving
the problem. Granted, the industry has
made great strides in this regard. Today,
more than ever, an increasing number
of young Canadians are enrolling in
hospitality programs, many captivated
by the allure and passion of becoming
chefs. A good number of Canadians are
also perfectly happy to be servers and
bartenders because of the flexibility in
scheduling and the attractive tips. And,
many teenage workers, who look to the
foodservice industry as a place where
they can earn money while attending
school, are perfectly content to work in
the quick-service industry.
To be fair, many operators have
worked diligently to improve their salary packages, especially the bigger chains
and successful independents, which
appreciate that good working conditions
and a variety of perks, namely health
benefits, make for happier, more productive employees. But, for every good
operator who truly cares about his staff,
countless others are guilty of offering
low pay, promoting deplorable working conditions and taking advantage of
their staff. It may be hard to believe this
reality in 21st-century Canada, but low
pay and unattractive work conditions
still plague the industry. And, as labour
challenges persist (see p. 26) and today’s
millennials become more vocal and less
malleable about what they’re willing to
accept in the workforce, the problem
will only intensify. In fact, this month’s
story titled “Changing of the Guard” (see
p. 33) cites a recent University of Guelph
survey that shows a growing number of
hospitality graduates are disappointed in
the state of industry and leaving it.
It begs two questions: why is this the
case, and what are you going to do about
it? If the industry really wants to solve
this age-old conundrum and promote a
hospitable work environment governed
by employers who truly care about their
employees, it’s going to require a huge
paradigm shift. It’s insane to think anything less will work. After all, as Albert
Einstein is reputed to have once pointed
out, “Insanity is doing the same thing
over and over again and expecting different results.”
Rosanna Caira
Editor/Publisher
[email protected]
PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER MITCH KOSTUCH
[email protected]
EDITOR & PUBLISHER ROSANNA CAIRA
[email protected]
ART DIRECTOR MARGARET MOORE
[email protected]
MANAGING EDITOR BRIANNE BINELLI
[email protected]
ASSISTANT EDITOR JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER
[email protected]
EDITORIAL INTERNS DANIELLE SCHALK & JESSICA MAIORANO
WEB COMMUNICATIONS SPECIALIST MAYA TCHERNINA
[email protected]
MULTIMEDIA MANAGER DEREK RAE
[email protected]
GRAPHIC DESIGN INTERN COURTNEY JENKINS
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reducing wastage.
DIRECTOR JIM KOSTUCH
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SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER/U.S.A. WENDY GILCHRIST
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ACCOUNTING ELSIE REDEKOPP
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EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TINA ALEXANDROU
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ADVISORY BOARD
BOSTON PIZZA INTERNATIONAL KEN OTTO
CORA FRANCHISE GROUP DAVID POLNY
CRAVE IT RESTAURANT GROUP ALEX RECHICHI
FHG INTERNATIONAL INC. DOUG FISHER
FRESHII MATTHEW CORRIN
HEALTH CHECK CANADA I HEART & STROKE FOUNDATION KATIE JESSOP
JOEY RESTAURANT GROUP BRITT INNES
LECOURS WOLFSON LIMITED NORMAN WOLFSON
MAPLE LEAF SPORTS + ENTERTAINMENT ROBERT BARTLEY
NEW YORK FRIES & SOUTH ST. BURGER CO. JAY GOULD
SCHOOL OF HOSPITALITY & TOURISM MANAGEMENT, UNIVERSITY
OF GUELPH BRUCE MCADAMS
SENSORS QUALITY MANAGEMENT DAVID LIPTON
SOTOS LLP JOHN SOTOS
THE GARLAND GROUP MANITOWOC FOODSERVICE JACQUES SEGUIN
THE HOUSE OF COMMONS JUDSON SIMPSON
THE MCEWAN GROUP MARK MCEWAN
UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS NORTH AMERICA GINNY HARE
To subscribe to F&H, visit foodserviceandhospitality.com
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MONTHLY NEWS AND UPDATES FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY
A PIECE OF THE PIE
Pizza players are piggybacking on the fast-casual trend
with fresh new store designs BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER
FYI
B
urritos, better burgers and salads may
have dominated
the fast-casual sphere in
the past, but there are new
players in the game as pizza
operators have begun to
take cues from the burgeoning segment to re-capture lost share.
Domino’s Pizza is turning the spotlight to its pizza
artists by rolling out a new
“Pizza Theatre” store format, which execs hope to
incorporate into all stores globally by 2017. “It’s our new open-kitchen image,” describes
Brandon Solano, VP of Store Development for the Ann Arbor, Mich.-based brand. “It will
bring our customers closer to the hand crafting of our food; they will get to see our premium
ingredients and they will have closer interaction with our pizza makers.” The design, which
includes a step-up platform where kids can see the action, as well as kiosk ordering, is part of
a marked effort to better cater to customers who “carry out” their meal, a contingent which
comprises one-third of the company’s business. “It is important because carry out is a growing part of the business, and consumer expectations are higher because of the fast-casual segment,” he adds.
In January, Pizza Hut revealed its next-generation restaurant format, which is beginning
to roll out in locations across the U.S. It features a pizza-by-the-slice program, an upgraded
ordering area with digital menu boards and an open seating area. “It’s important for us to keep
pace with consumer behaviour,” says Doug Terfehr, Pizza Hut spokesperson, of the revamp,
describing the ideal space as “open, simple and accessible.”
Industry analysts say limited-service restos are smart to revamp their offerings to incorporate elements of fast-casual, where possible. “They’re doing it because they almost have to do
it,” emphasizes Bonnie Riggs, restaurant industry analyst for NPD Group, who is based out
of Rosemont, Ill. “In foodservice, there’s a lot of remodels, a lot more upscaling, more premium products and in terms of pizza, it doesn’t surprise me that it didn’t happen sooner.” It’s
reflecting a more discerning customer base, too, she says, adding customers love the appeal
of the innovation, creativity and high-tech nature of fast-casuals. “[Customers] traded down
from casual dining and family dining, and traded up from fast food, and that’s helped drive
the growth of these segments. I think we’re going to see a lot more [restaurants] trying to be
more like fast-casual,” she says, adding “Not all will succeed.”
LUNCH GRAB
In keeping with the fast-casual
theme, Pizza Hut is tossing more
focus on its food as it seeks to
boost lunchtime traffic, with its
new pizza-by-the-slice program,
which has begun to test in select
U.S. markets. “Lunch is a huge
opportunity for us,” emphasizes
Doug Terfehr, Pizza Hut spokesperson. “Pizza-by-the-slice
provides consumers the quick
inexpensive option they’re looking
for.” Cut from an 18-inch pie and
served at a pizza bar, slices will
range in price from $2 to $3 and
include new, chef-inspired recipes
such as chicken bacon ranch.
PARTNERS IN PIZZA Fast-casual pioneer Chipotle Mexican Grill has announced it’s bringing its fast-casual philosophy to pizza,
by partnering with the U.S.-based Neapolitan pizza concept Pizzeria Locale. Customers can choose from 10 classic pizzas, cooked
in under two minutes, and high-quality sides such as prosciutto, meatballs and even wine on tap. “Opening Pizzeria Locale using a
model similar to Chipotle allows us to make extraordinary pizza, made with high-quality ingredients accessible to everyone,” says
Steve Ells, founder, chairman and co-CEO of Chipotle.
5
FYI
COMING
EVENTS
TOP LOT: (l to r) David
Weaver, Corby Distillers,
Davin de Kergommeaux,
chairman of the judges,
Bill Atwood, Corby Distillers
BEST IN SHOW
Corby’s Lot No. 40 was named the Canadian Whisky of the Year at the fourth annual
Canadian Whisky Awards, held recently at the Victoria Whisky Festival in Victoria.
Distilled at the Hiram Walker Distillery in Windsor, Ont., the top producer uses a
100-per-cent rye grain recipe developed in the 19th century by Joshua Booth, a Canadian
pioneer distiller. “Interest in Canadian whisky is growing tremendously,” said Davin de
Kergommeaux, chairman of the judges. “Export sales of Canadian whisky worldwide were
up 25 per cent in 2013, and the upward trend continues. Canadian whisky producers are
stepping up to the plate with new high-end releases. More small-batch and top-end deluxe
whiskies are available now than ever before.” Other Whisky Award winners included
Alberta Premium Dark Horse (Connoisseur Whisky of the Year Domestic Market), Forty
Creek Heart of Gold (Connoisseur Whisky of the Year Best New Whisky), Masterson’s
Straight Rye Whisky (Gold
medal), Wiser’s Red Letter
(Gold medal) and Crown
Royal Black (Gold medal).
MARCH 2-4: CRFA Show 2014, Direct
Energy Centre, Exhibition Place, Toronto.
Tel: 800-387-5649; email: [email protected];
website: crfa.ca
MARCH 3-5: International Restaurant
& Foodservice Show of New York, Javits
Center, New York. Tel: 203-484-8055;
email: [email protected];
website: internationalrestaurantny.com
MARCH 5-6: North American Summit
on Food Safety, International Plaza
Hotel, Toronto. Tel: 416-944-9200 x200;
email: customercare@strategyinstitute.
com; website: foodsafetycanada.com
APRIL 2-4: SIAL Canada & SET
Canada, Palais des congrès de
Montréal. Tel: 514-289-9669;
website: sialcanada.com
MAY 1: Icons & Innovators Breakfast
Series, Toronto. Tel: 416-447-0888 x236,
website: foodserviceandhospitality.com
For more events,
visit http://bit.ly/HNqE9U
READY,
SET, SIAL
Consumer trends will be front
and centre at the 11th edition
of SIAL Canada, the international food-and-beverage
tradeshow, which will be held
April 2 to 4 at the Palais des
Congrès in Montreal. While
last year’s show, held in Toronto, welcomed nearly 13,000 visitors from across
Canada and the globe, this year’s event is positioned to bring in even more,
with 750 exhibitors (including 350 Canadian companies) and more than 14,000
attendees. Features include Olive d’Or, an olive oil tasting session; La Cuisine
by SIAL, a competition for corporate chefs; The Lab, a pastry event; and SIAL à
Manger, a new project that highlights Montreal’s restaurants, organized in partnership with the Association des Restaurateurs du Québec. In addition, the show
will feature educational sessions that highlight food innovation, ethnic products,
packaging, food waste, health and gastronomy. SIAL Canada will mark the first
celebration of the international brand’s 50th anniversary, which will continue
with SIAL tradeshows across the world, culminating with SIAL Paris in October.
FYI
TWEET A
COFFEE
Starbucks has discovered a new way to
share its brand online (and boost sales)
through Twitter. Starting January, the
company launched its Tweet-a-Coffee program, whereby Twitter users can tweet $5
e-gifts to other users, who can then redeem
them at Starbucks stores. “Starbucks is
a gathering place that creates moments
of connection between people every day.
Tweet-a-coffee is a new way for our customers to connect with friends and followers and share the gift of Starbucks instantly,” said Richard Burjaw, VP of Starbucks
Coffee Canada.
RESTO BUZZ
El Caballito has joined the Toronto tequila
restaurant scene, offering 64 different tequilas
and mescals alongside authentic Mexican
street food, with specialties such as the Tostada
de Atun, made with tuna sashimi, magnolia
sauce, avocado, crispy leeks and a corn tortilla
($5.75)...Edmonton received a new addition to the food scene on 124th Street, with
the opening of Daravara. Helmed by chef
Shane Loiselle, the restaurant and bar offers
an amalgamation of French, Canadian and
American regional cooking, with a pinch of
Latin spice…The Lake House has opened
its doors to Calgary diners in its new location at Lake Bonavista. Head chef Thomas
Neukom’s dishes can be enjoyed in a casual
lounge setting as well as a fine-dining area…
Eggspectation is expanding with a new location in Toronto’s Bell Trinity Square. The restaurant offers dishes such as the Sugar Shack,
with two scrambled eggs, crêpe bretonne,
sliced ham, baked beans and Lyonnaise-style
potatoes ($11.25)...The owners of modern
Chinese restaurant Wild Rice have closed
the doors of the original location at 117 West
Pender St. in Vancouver. The restaurant’s New
Westminster and River Market locations will
remain open.
Opening a new restaurant? Let us in on the
buzz. Send a high-res image, menu and background information about the new establishment to
[email protected].
IN BRIEF
Ontario’s minimum wage is set to rise for
the first time in four years, from $10.25 to
$11.00, beginning June 1...The Atlanta, Ga.based Manufacturers’ Agents Association for
the Foodservice Industry (MAFSI) predicts a
5.5-per-cent growth in Canadian equipment
and supplies sales, including an increase in
equipment (5.7 per cent); supplies (5.3 per
cent); tabletop (3.6 per cent) and furnishings (7.3 per cent)...Cineplex Entertainment
has acquired a 50-per-cent stake in YoYo’s
Yogurt Cafe, a London, Ont.-based self-serve
frozen yogurt chain. Cineplex plans to open
more YoYo’s units in its existing theatres
as well as standalone locations...U.S.-based
Panera Bread Company is expanding in
Ottawa, with the opening of its 13th bakerycafé location in Ontario and first unit in
Ottawa...Toronto-based Mr. Greek has
opened the first of five planned locations in
Kuwait...Etobicoke, Ont.-based Pizza Pizza
has added two new locations in Montreal,
building on its goal to open 10 locations
in Quebec this year...Carl’s Jr. recently
launched its newest location in Abbotsford,
B.C., making it the eighth location in
Canada. This is only the beginning for the
chain’s growth north of the U.S. border as
its operator, Carpinteria, Calif.-based CKE
Restaurant Holdings Inc., has major plans to
expand across Canada in the coming months
and years.
PEOPLE
Imvescor Restaurant Group has reappointed Denis Richard president and
CEO. Roland Boudreau, Gary O’Connor
and François-Xavier Seigneur have also
joined the Board of Directors...JeanPhilippe Miron is the new chef de cuisine at
Montreal’s long-running Globe Restaurant.
The Repentigny, Que. native is a graduate
of l’Institut de Tourisme et d’hôtellerie
du Québec and has previously worked at
Simplé Chic and Au Pied de Cochon...
There’s new leadership at the Louisville,
Ky.-based Yum Brands as the company has
named David Gibbs president of Pizza Hut
in the U.S., and Jason Marker as GM of KFC
in the U.S. Gibbs was previously president
and CFO of Yum Restaurants International,
while Marker was previously CMO for
KFC in the U.S. The company has also
FYI
SUPPLYSIDE
Nick Perpick
announced it has reorganized its business by
combining Yum Restaurants International
and the U.S. individual divisions for KFC,
Pizza Hut and Taco Bell...Nick Perpick
retired in late January as president and COO
of Prime Restaurants Inc. The foodservice
veteran co-founded the first Casey’s Grill •
Bar in 1980 in Sudbury, Ont.
Sparks, Md.-based Mcw Company celebrates
its 125th anniversary with a new campaign,
Flavour of Together, which invites culinary
professionals from across the globe to share
stories about how food and flavour plays
a special role in their lives...Landsberg am
Lech, Germany-based Rational, celebrated
its 40th year in business. Dr. Günter Blasche
left his post as the chairman of the Board
of Rational AG and will be replaced by
Dr. Peter Stadelmann...C.W. Shasky has
debuted its new 4,000-sq.-ft. Culinary &
Mixology Solutions Centre in Oakville, Ont.,
complete with a new commercial kitchen,
mixology centre and two conference and
dining rooms...Tom Dickson, CEO of the
Orem, Utah-based Blendtec company, is
advancing hands-on learning by donating $1
million towards a children’s science museum
in Utah, scheduled to open in spring...
Chicago-based Flat Tech Inc. offers a solution for wobbly tables with its new table
bases that align using a hydraulic system...
Waterloo, Ont.-based Piller’s Simply Free
Smoked Breakfast Ham was named the Best
New Fresh Packaged Meat by Consumers, as
part of the 2014 BrandSpark New Product
Awards...Franklin Park, Ill.-based American
Metalcraft has released its modern interpretation of the old-fashioned milk bottle for
foodservice that can be used to pour juices,
teas and even beers...Vancouver mixologist
Lauren Mote is expanding her Bittered Sling
line of bitters and extracts with the addition
of Kensington Dry Aromatic and Malagasy
Chocolate.
OBITUARY: John Schmied, former chairman and national president of what is today
known as the Canadian Culinary Federation,
died in January. Schmied served as president of the federation from 1968 to 1969
and was a member of its Team Canada; he
also contributed to two books about the
foodservice industry, including the Canadian
Menu Manual, produced in partnership with
Kostuch Media Ltd.
Ontario
Hostelry
Institute
Chefs
Supplier s
Hotelier s
Educator s
Media
Restaur ateur s
Ar tisans
Students
2014
OHI
GOLD
AWARDS
DINNER
CALLING EVERYONE TO THE TABLE.
Excellence – Passion – Achievement – Success. These words embody the mandate of the Ontario Hostelry Institute. Each of these
attributes is difficult to achieve in any industry and the Hospitality, Foodservice and Tourism industry is no exception. Every year the Ontario
Hostelry Institute ensures that these attributes do not go unnoticed by acknowledging and celebrating these achievements at the Annual
OHI Gold Awards Dinner. The OHI Gold Awards are awarded to individuals in our industry who exemplify passion, achievement, success
and whose commitment to excellence enhances not only the industry but also the image of Ontario and Canada among thousands of diners,
travelers and vacationers year after year.
Come to the Table and join us to celebrate these amazing men and women on Thursday, April 24th, 2014 at the Four Seasons Hotel
in Toronto. Partake in the celebration of this continuing legacy. Tables and tickets are available for purchase at www.theohi.ca
or by calling 416-363-3401.
Ontario Hostelry Institute 300 Adelaide Street East #339 Toronto ON M5A 1N1 Tel: 416-363-3401 Fax: 416-363-3403 www.theohi.ca
FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER
UNCHARTED
WATERS
Foodservice brands need to innovate when expanding into
global marketplaces, which are dominated by local cuisine
E
daily restaurant visits.
Following in second
place is McDonald’s,
which is ubiquitously
seen as a global brand,
capturing 10 per cent of Canada’s daily restaurant use.
The main reason for the popularity in
domestic restaurants may be the local population’s desire for its native cuisine. After all,
every country has its own top 10 list of most
consumed items, such as buns and soybean
milk in China; sushi, miso and rice balls in
Japan; doughnuts in Canada; tapas in Spain;
and bacon in Great Britain.
Of course, select menu items have transcended borders and are commonly found
at restaurants in countries around the globe.
For example, coffee is popular in most
very day there are more and more
stories about foodservice brands
expanding globally, as favourable
trade agreements between countries open
the door for growth. But, international
growth is more difficult than it appears,
since the global market remains dominated
by restaurants that are local to the country
in which they operate.
According to NPD’s Global CREST survey — which tracks consumer restaurant
behaviour in 12 countries around the world
— global restaurant brands account for
less than 10 per cent of market share. As
such, domestic chain restaurants capture
the vast majority of restaurant visits in most
countries. In Canada, Tim Hortons is a
Canadian-made success story, having grown
to earn 27-per-cent share of the country’s
Global restaurant chains capture less than
10-per-cent share of the global foodservice market
86%
84%
91%
94%
93% 88%
92%
93%
98%
90% 82%
Domestic
S.A
.
Ru
18%
U.
ia
10%
ss
ly
2%
Ita
in
7%
Sp
a
nc
e
8%
Fra
rita
tB
Gr
ea
Ge
in
y
an
pa
n
12%
7%
rm
6%
Ja
da
na
ia
Ca
tra
l
Au
s
9%
Ch
16%
14%
ina
Global Chains
countries; beef burgers are among the top
10 foods consumed at restaurants in every
country, except Italy and China; french fries
are among the top 15 most consumed items
in every country, except China; leaf salad is
enjoyed in nearly every country; and pizza is
top-ranking internationally with the exception of Asia.
And now ethnic cuisines are slowly gaining popularity, too. Major ethnic cuisines
can be found almost everywhere — sushi is
prevalent in Moscow, London and Chicago,
noodle bars have emerged in Europe and
North America, and consumers in most
countries enjoy French, Italian, Chinese,
Indian, Tex-Mex and Spanish.
Nonetheless, ethnic foods are rarely
among the top menu items ordered in
restaurants worldwide, save a few exceptions. For example, the British are more
likely to order Chinese and Indian foods at
restaurants than a traditional roast or fried
fish as a result of a shifting ethnic population. In the U.S., Mexican food is one of
the most consumed menu items, while in
Canada, over the past five years, Asian food
continues to be one of the fastest-growing
menu items.
Overall, since consumers around the
world generally prefer their native cuisine,
operators looking to expand globally should
learn the dynamics of the local population
in which they wish to operate and adjust
their menus accordingly. l
Robert Carter is executive director, Foodservice Canada, with the NPD Group Inc.
He can be reached at [email protected] for questions regarding the latest trends
and their impact on the foodservice business.
11
FOOD FILE
Fresh
Start
D
r. John Harvey Kellogg promised cornflakes were a quick
and healthy start to the day
when he launched the revolutionary
breakfast food in 1895. Years later, in
1975, McDonald’s rolled out the Egg
McMuffin and breakfast changed.
Perhaps it was its portability that
catapulted the breakfast sandwich into
the culinary stratosphere. After all, busy
The breakfast
daypart is booming
as consumers opt
to pay more for
premium nosh
in the morning
BY LIZ CAMPBELL
commuters often eschewed breakfast for
grab-and-go coffee. Suddenly they could
grab a seemingly healthy meal on the
go. Nutritionists pushed the message —
breakfast is the most important meal of
FOOD FILE
the day. The breakfast sandwich was born.
“Breakfast sandwiches and coffee are
both on the CRFA’s ‘What’s Growing’ list,”
says Garth Whyte, president and CEO of
the Canadian Restaurant & Foodservices
Association (CRFA). “It appeals to two ends
of the spectrum — the time pressed and
those who want a good breakfast.”
Not surprisingly, sandwiches are the
top-selling breakfast item at Tim Hortons.
“Mornings are a very busy time for many
people. QSR breakfast guests are looking
for convenient locations, fast and accurate service, delicious and portable food
and beverage offerings,” acknowledges Julie
Unsworth, director, Category Brand, Food,
for Tim Hortons. “We also know many
guests are trying to eat healthier. We provide
a wide variety of breakfast options, including many better-for-you choices like our
new Turkey Sausage Breakfast Sandwich
($3.29). All of our breakfast sandwiches are
always made fresh to order.”
But, breakfast is evolving across dayparts.
Since 2007, annual breakfast/brunch occasions have grown by 159.7-million visits.
And, although breakfast/brunch accounts
MORNING MEAL: Tim Horton’s Biscuit Egg
and Ham breakfast sandwich is one example
of the popular grab-and-go morning meal
sandwich option; Cora Breakfast and Lunch
offers innovation with its Ode to Oatmeal
for only 15 per cent of total restaurant traffic, it has been responsible for 56 per cent of
visit growth in the foodservice industry during the past six years, (growing every year).
“QSR chains have been the most impactful
driver of the breakfast growth trend. Their
share has grown from 62 per cent to 71 per
cent from 2007 to 2013,” explains Robert
Carter, executive director, Foodservice, with
NPD Group Canada. “While motivators for
breakfast are convenience, habit and time
crunch, it seems loyalty, craveable items and
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FOOD FILE
SIZZLING EATS
Breakfast menus across the country
are sprouting decadent options.
Here are a few we found:
SWEET & SAVOURY: Calgary’s Sweet Life restaurant offers customers indulgence and sustenance with
dishes such as the popular Bacon’eh’tor (above, left) and the Regular Joe (above, right)
BACALAO, ST. JOHN’S, N.L.:
Partridgeberry-Apple Belgian Waffles
are crispy on the outside and tender
on the inside. They’re served with
quality have been a strength for FSR.”
Cora Mussely Tsouflidou figured that out
26 years ago. “Place a good breakfast in front
of people, and they love it,” she has said. At
Cora, there are more than 100 offerings, so
there’s something for everyone, and most
come with beautifully cut fresh fruit.
“We have some decadence of course, but
we focus on health. It’s top of mind for our
customers,” says David Polny, EVP of Cora
Breakfast & Lunch, a chain with 130 locations across Canada. And loyalty continues
to drive sales.
But as breakfast thrives, other dayparts
are losing customers. The breakfast meeting seems to be replacing lunch and dinner
— it’s cheaper, faster and perceived as less
self-indulgent. According to NPD, lunch
and supper together contribute to only 10
per cent of incremental traffic gains, and
FSR traffic is still trending down this year.
The solution for many operators has been to
begin serving breakfast. The CRFA’s Whyte
points to a number of restaurants and pubs
that are now serving weekend brunch, daily
breakfast and even all-day breakfast. For
example, Toronto’s Barque Smokehouse
serves a breakfast Benny with brisket or
warm partridgeberry-cranberryapple compote and whipped cream
($13, plus $3 for local sausages or
bacon).
TWISTED FORK, VANCOUVER:
The Bacon frittata is filled with
thyme-roasted cherry tomatoes,
zucchini, caramelized onions, brie
and fresh basil. It’s served with
fresh greens and sweet corn relish
($13.50).
LE PASSÉ COMPOSÉ,
MONTREAL: The poached duck
egg with duck confit is served with
butternut squash, parmesan, chives,
INGREDIENT OF THE MONTH: MAPLE SYRUP
Nothing says local and Canadian like authentic maple syrup. Canada
is the largest producer in the world of this natural sweetener that’s an
excellent source of important nutrients such as zinc and manganese.
Maple syrup is graded based on colour and clarity. While the provinces can differ in their grading systems, in general, the top grade
(usually designated no. 1) includes Extra Light, Light, and Medium;
No. 2 is usually Amber; and No. 3 includes Dark or any other ungraded category. The darker
syrups are usually produced later in the season and tend to have a stronger flavour, are more
nutrient-dense and may be thicker in consistency. Many real maple lovers prefer these though
they may not be as clear and golden. Maple syrup is expensive but perceived to offer added
value by customers who are generally willing to pay more for the real thing. Traditionally served
with the usual breakfast fare of French toast, waffles and pancakes, it’s a treat served with
bread pudding and even oatmeal. It also pairs well with proteins and many vegetables, adding
a touch of sweetness to other menu offerings.
white port sauce and potato wafers
(one egg, $17; two eggs, $23).
ISAAC’S WAY, FREDERICTON:
Gourmet French toast is stuffed with
fruity cream cheese, fried in egg and
drizzled with apple or blueberry coulis. It is served with a side of bacon
or ham and made with sourdough or
multigrain bread ($9).
JOY BISTRO, TORONTO: The
48-hour braised beef short rib hash
is served with winter vegetables,
deep-fried duck egg and white
truffle hollandaise ($14.81).
FOOD FILE
SUPPLYSIDE
For operators who can’t cook their
breakfast from scratch, there
are other on-trend options. At the
Illinois-based Sara Lee Foodservice
Ltd., a Division of Hillshire Brands,
Jimmy Dean’s FullyCooked Breakfast
Sandwiches offer “vari
“variety, plus fool-proof
food safety,” as a
breakheat-and-serve break
fast option. Meanwhile,
the Jimmy Dean Fully Cooked
HOT INNOVATION: Halifax’s Coastal Cafe offers innovative offerings such as its Huevos Rancheros
with three fried eggs on cheesy tostadas with guajillo rancheros sauce, Mexi veg, guacamole, salsa
and mole crema
trout from their smoker, barbecue hollandaise and cornbread ($14).
This upsets operators such as Tony
Cappellano, an owner and major stakeholder
of the thriving Boom Breakfast & Co., a
10-year-old chain with four corporate loca-
tions in Toronto. “Everybody’s jumping on
the breakfast bandwagon,” he says, pointing
to coffee shops and even pizzerias that have
joined this daypart. “We’re successful, but we
have to constantly rethink what we’re doing.
Some of the chains are offering a price point
Breakfast Sausage is made with fresh
lean pork, with no fillers or artificial
flavours.
FOOD FILE
“
OUR FOOD
IS HEALTHY,
ORGANIC AND
APPROACHABLY
UPSCALE. I THINK
THAT’S THE REAL
BREAKFAST
TREND.
”
— STEVE EWING,
YOLKS, VANCOUVER
and speed that is hard to beat. But, we offer
more personable service than most chains.
Our focus is local, freshly made food — and
we’re working on speed.”
While speed is patently important, it seems
Gooodd
Fdo
rink
the
&
l
festiva
Cappellano is right about the food. Freshly
made pancakes and waffles, handmade hollandaise and Canadian maple syrup are helping to sell breakfast.
Two years ago, Steve Ewing started Yolks,
a food truck in Vancouver, which serves
80 to 150 breakfasts daily during the week,
and 120 to 300 breakfasts on weekends.
More recently, he opened a much-anticipated
36-seat restaurant, which served 200 covers
on opening day. That quickly expanded to
42 seats and now averages 300 covers on a
Sunday. His simple menu takes the breakfast
sandwich to the next level. Free-range eggs
are the base for a build-your-own sandwich
that could include double-smoked bacon
and real, homemade hollandaise sauce. Daily
specials might include anything from pork
belly to duck confit served atop eggs. Yolks’
version of hash browns are made with potatoes soaked in fresh lemon juice and served
with homemade ketchup for dipping. The
waffles are made from scratch. “Our food is
TRIED AND TRUE: The McCoastal
Sandwich is a favourite at Halifax’s
Coastal Cafe, despite its $12 price tag
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FOOD FILE
healthy, organic and approachably upscale,”
says Ewing. “I think that’s the real breakfast
trend.”
At the other end of the country, Mark
Giffin’s Coastal Café in Halifax follows the
same formula. While the restaurant only has
20 seats, the team manages to serve up to 190
covers in one shift. And, Coastal consistently
wins Best Breakfast accolades.
The McCoastal Sandwich (no points for
guessing the origin of this name) is a top
seller and while it rings in at a considerably higher price than the average breakfast sandwich, $12 buys you two fried eggs,
house-made cured maple sausage or locally
cured maple bacon, Havarti and red wine
onion compote in an English muffin, served
with homemade hash or salad. “High quality
ingredients and attention to detail is what
brings people back,” says Giffin, who saw a
niche in the breakfast market about six years
ago and used his fine-dining training to create an upscale offering.
Nonetheless, he recognizes the need for
indulgence, even at breakfast. Another top
seller is the Durty Bird — two fried eggs,
Habanero Buffalo chicken, bacon and guacamole in an English muffin served with hash
or salad ($13).
Nataliya Babenko will tell you indulgence is the reason for her success. The chef/
owner of Sweet Life in Calgary did a careful
analysis of what people want. “Bacon and
eggs,” she asserts. “But they want a backsplash of something sweet, like a waffle or
maple syrup. I couldn’t believe the success
of our Bacon’eh’tor.” Her top seller combines smoked maple bacon, double vanilla
ice cream, dulce de leche, chocolate sauce and
maple syrup on a hand-made Belgian waffle
($11.95).
The only challenger for top spot on her
menu comes from Regular Joe: a Belgian
waffle topped with two scrambled eggs, and
smoked maple bacon or all beef breakfast
sausage, served with warm maple syrup
Food is our passion.
People our most valuable asset.
Trust our currency.
($11.95). These sell better on weekends, but
Sweet Life is busy daily with sales growing
exponentially.
While NPD’s Carter suggests most people
are really looking for healthy breakfast offerings, anomalies abound. One need only look
at the current craze for ‘cronuts’ in their various incarnations. Croissants deep fried and
sugar-coated are hardly healthy fare. And, at
Yolks, the line-ups for the Friday breakfast
special — fried chicken and waffles with
maple syrup — are legendary.
This Southern U.S. classic might seem
supremely unhealthy, but Yolks’ Ewing
brines and adds panko crust to boneless,
organic chicken then fries at a very high
temperature so little oil is absorbed ($11.75).
“We serve real maple syrup, too,” he adds,
“so we take the trashiness out of it.” While
it isn’t low calorie, perhaps it has enough
redeeming features to make it appealing to
those who want to indulge.
In fact, this particular Southern specialty
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is making its way on to many Canadian
menus. At Montreal’s SuWu, a breakfast of
French toast and blueberry sauce comes with
fried chicken ($12). And, at Toronto’s Drake
Hotel, chicken with herb waffles, maple
syrup, crème fraîche and Niagara cherry jam
($15.95) gets raves.
And, what about price? “We offer a $5.99,
two-egg breakfast that includes coffee,” says
Boom’s Cappellano. “It brings people in
and keeps us top of mind.” And, of course,
customers might decide to get Boom’s topselling Bennies ($10.49 to $11.89) instead.
“There’s a perception that breakfast is a
cheap meal,” says Cora’s Polny. “Our clientele comes back, because we offer value
on the plate, and there’s no compromise on
quality.” Quality and service brings customers back despite an average price of about
$10 a plate.
In fact, while that QSR take-away breakfast sandwich costs under $5, in the FSR
breakfast market the full plate price seems to
have settled around $10 to $15
across Canada. How much will
Canadians pay? At The Coastal,
says Giffin, “We served butterpoached lobster with our eggs for
$30, and we sold out.”
So, while Canadians are cutting back their restaurant spending, they may see breakfast as a
lower priced dining-out alternative, especially on weekends.
“They might not go out for dinner on Sunday night, but they’ll
go for brunch,” says the CRFA’s
Whyte. “It can be a family occasion, too.” At brunch, speed and
price are replaced with upscaling
and top-notch service.
But whether it’s for breakfast
or brunch, offering customers something
unique and freshly made seems to be the
mark of success across the country. Yolks’
Ewing sums it up: “The one trend that will
keep growing is that customers want real
food made by humans, not machines. Adding
water to powdered mixes just doesn’t cut it
anymore.” l
LABOUR
The
Gap
Faced with
a growing
labour shortage,
operators have
no qualms
about bringing
on temporary
foreign workers
and expanding
their recruitment
horizons
I
t’s every kitchen manager’s nightmare — starting
a shift with a bare-bones
staff, realizing the missing
hands in the kitchen will
slow down preparation
times, dull service standards
and perhaps send frustrated
customers to the door.
BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER
ILLUSTRATIONS BY JEM SULLIVAN
LABOUR
The labour shortage is increasingly becoming a problem for restaurant operators across the country.
According to the Ottawa-based
Canadian Tourism Human Resource
Council, Canada will deal with a
long-term labour deficit of more than
136,000 full-time workers in the restaurant industry by 2030.
Jordan Romoff, operating partner at
the Toronto-based hospitality search
firm Lecours Wolfson, is concerned.
“We expect 2014 will be a year of
heightened competition for market
share across all foodservice segments.
Sourcing, securing and retaining top
talent will be the biggest challenge and
the most important ingredient for success in the coming year.”
EAST VERSUS WEST
Despite the desperate need for
Canadian-grown labour, foodservice
operators are increasingly turning to
“
WE EXPECT 2014
WILL BE A YEAR
OF HEIGHTENED
COMPETITION FOR
MARKET SHARE
ACROSS ALL FOODSERVICE SEGMENTS. SOURCING,
SECURING AND
RETAINING TOP
TALENT WILL BE
THE BIGGEST
CHALLENGE.
— JORDAN ROMOFF,
LECOURS WOLFSON,
TORONTO
”
the government’s Temporary Foreign
Worker Program to fill the gaps in
their kitchens. Case in point: in 2012,
213,573 temporary foreign workers
were admitted to Canada, almost twoand-a-half times as many as in 1995,
according to the October 2013 report
“Economic Implications of Recent
Changes to the Temporary Foreign
Worker Program,” by Christopher
Worswick, a professor at Ottawa’s
Carleton University.
Unsurprisingly, the use of temporary foreign workers is becoming
common in booming industries, where
foodservice attendants are abandoning their jobs for higher-wage gigs in
Newfoundland’s offshore oil industry
or Alberta’s energy and construction
sectors. “The labour shortage situation
is most acute in Prairie provinces, and
with the Temporary Foreign Worker
Program it’s no surprise close to 90 per
cent of all temporary foreign workers
that are in our industry are in Alberta,
Saskatchewan and Manitoba,” says
Mark von Schellwitz, VP, Western
Canada for the Canadian Restaurant
and Foodservices Association (CRFA).
Jay Gould, president of Torontobased New York Fries and South Street
Burger Co., says his franchisees in
Alberta are depending on a foreign
workforce to stay afloat. “Commerce is
doing very well in Alberta, has been for
years, and as a result, there are pretty
good job opportunities. When that
happens, it’s a little harder for us to
attract — at reasonable rates — decent
staff,” he says. “In Alberta, we’ve been
sponsoring people from mostly the
Philippines for probably five or six
years now. And, that’s our operators
doing that. My guess is perhaps 25 to
30 per cent of our workforce in Alberta
has been sponsored at some point,”
Gould adds.
Recently, the CRFA has been successful in lobbying the Alberta government to allow for restaurant owners to
nominate foreign workers permanently. In September, for a limited time,
the government announced employers
could apply to permanently fill up
to 20 per cent of the workforce with
people hired through the pilot Alberta
Immigrant Nominee Program.
Across the country, foodservice
operators in Newfoundland are dealing with similar problems. Luc Erjavec,
VP, Atlantic Canada for the CRFA,
says kitchen workers are leaving in
droves for higher wages. “Particularly
in Newfoundland, with the boom in
the economy, there’s a shortage of
cooks, and it’s [creating] competition
between a lot of new establishments
in Newfoundland, and there are some
pretty big camps up in Labrador that
are paying top dollar, and people tend
to go there,” he says.
It’s an issue that’s also affecting Moncton, N.B.-based Imvescor
Restaurant Group, which owns
franchised and corporate full-service
restaurants Pizza Delight in Atlantic
Canada as well as Mikes, Scores and
Baton Rouge in Quebec and Ontario.
“In particular markets, more so
Labrador, it’s been extremely challenging. It’s not a matter of retaining
people there. It’s been a matter of getting applicants in, because there’s just
no one to hire,” says Amber Coggan,
chief compliance officer, All Brands
and brand leader, Pizza Delight. After
being forced to reduce hours of operation in Labrador, the company turned
to the temporary foreign worker
program, which she says has created a
chain of referrals from its temporary
labourers and a growing community of
internationally born workers. “They’ve
had really good success with the workers they’ve brought in,” she says. “We
end up getting people [referred] that
they know or are related to them to
come over in the future.”
However, it’s an onerous task to
bring on a new employee through
the program. To apply for a Labour
Market Opinion (LMO), the operator
must demonstrate they’ve exhausted
all possible avenues to employ
Canadian workers, such as posting
help ads at Aboriginal employment
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LABOUR
centres or seniors’ centres. And, there’s
a $275 application fee per position,
plus recruitment costs, finding suitable and affordable accommodation
for the successful applicants as well as
return transportation at the end of the
employment contract.
TICKING TIME BOMB
STAFF SHUFFLE
Despite declining union memberships,
strife between unions and restaurants
is still making the news. Recently,
Toronto-based Richtree Markets was
brought to the Ontario Labour Relations
Board (OLRB) by Unite Here Local 75,
a union representing approximately
40 workers who were laid off after
Richtree’s Toronto Eaton Centre location closed last January. The company
opened a new, 18,000-sq.-ft. location
about 50 metres away inside the mall
and hired new (non-union) staff. The
Labour Board ruled in favour of the
laid-off workers. “I am not persuaded
that in the circumstances of this case,
the union’s bargaining rights should be
extinguished by a move of some 50
metres across the corridor of the mall,”
read the decision by Bernard Fishbein,
OLRB chair. A representative from
Richtree did not respond for a request
to comment, but an earlier release
defended the company’s position. “The
thought that we were hiring associates
in the new restaurant at lower rates of
pay is simply not true. To the contrary,
we have hired over 200 local Toronto
job seekers at extremely competitive
rates. A majority of the jobs for which
we have hired are very different than
those in our previous location.” Teferi
Zemene, a Unite Here Local 75 leader
and volunteer union organizer, noted
the new precedent. “Hospitality workers
are often immigrants, minorities and
people of colour. We come to Canada
to work for a better life for ourselves
and our families,” he said. “The Board’s
decision today means more workers
have a chance to achieve the dream
that brought us to this country.”
Another one of the biggest labour
hurdles to overcome is what Lecours
Wolfson’s recruitment consultant
Robbie Bishop calls “a demographic
time bomb.” He says: “Our population
isn’t growing fast enough to accommodate our human resources requirements. In the near future we won’t
have enough workers to fill each slot.
And, to complicate this even further,
many of our well-trained, experienced
people are moving to other segments,
such as the retirement industry, or
they’re leaving our industry for higher
wages and better hours.”
QSR operators are feeling the pain
from the decline in young people looking for their first jobs. “The Canadian
born-and-raised, they don’t much
love the QSR industry, and they’re not
making hundreds of dollars a week
or perhaps more in tips,” Gould says,
alluding to the extra money made in
full-service serving positions. “As an
industry we could do a better job of
marketing the many opportunities in
the hospitality industry.”
It doesn’t help that supervisory
staff and assistant managers are also
becoming more difficult to staff,
because they are a transient pool of
workers. “[They’ll] move to other QSR
positions or other low-skilled retail,
manufacturing
and administrative positions on
a regular basis,” says
Michael Perrin, human
resources manager, New
York Fries and South Street
Burger Co. He explains:
they’re motivated by hourly
rate, hours of operations,
working conditions, employ-
ment location and potential or perceived advancement opportunities.
At Vancouver’s Glowbal Restaurant
Group, which operates eight concepts,
including Glowbal Grill Steaks & Satay
and Black + Blue, Emad Yacoub, president and CEO, rethought his recruitment and employee development plans
after applying for LMOs and placing
ads in the U.S. “I had to approach it
differently than everybody,” he said.
“I worked on creating a management
training school program in our company. For example, trying to get somebody at a level that’s going to fit my
restaurants is very hard — but take a
hostess and mould her for six months,
[have her] shadow a general manager,
and I am going to have a great junior
manager,” he says, adding that his
management training program sees up
to two graduates every six months.
He took it a step further by partnering with local culinary schools and
making donations to their program in
the form of cooking appliances or uniforms and then training the students
in his kitchens. “By doing that we get
flocks of students from the school, and
it’s easier for us to train them and get
them to the level we need,” he says.
Glowbal also offers a six-month
cooking school, which culminates in a
cook-off where the winner receives a
three-month mentorship with Yacoub.
But, the development doesn’t end in
the kitchen; Yacoub picks up the tab
for servers interested in getting their
sommelier certificate with one caveat
— they have to commit to a year
of employment with the restaurant
group.
OUTSIDE THE BOX
The government is placing more
under-represented groups in the
workforce by channelling funds
into human resource programs. For
example, in November, the CRFA
and the Canadian Federation of
Independent Business partnered with
March of Dimes Canada’s Accessible
Biz Connections program, which helps
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LABOUR
“
CULINARY
SCHOOL
ADMINISTRATIONS
SUCH AS GEORGE
BROWN COLLEGE
IN TORONTO
ARE TRYING TO
ENCOURAGE
THEIR STUDENTS
TO EXPAND THEIR
CAREER OPTIONS.
”
integrate people with disabilities into
the workplace. The program, which
launched in Atlantic Canada, Alberta,
Saskatchewan and Manitoba, helps
operators find workers based on skills
and experience, and provides a wage
subsidy for up to a year. “We’re also
working on a pilot project in Alberta
to try and do more matchmaking
for under-represented groups to the
industry,” adds the CRFA’s
von Schellwitz.
In the meantime, culinary school
administrations such as George Brown
College in Toronto are trying to
encourage their students to expand
their career options. “Grads need to
figure out what part of the industry
they really want to join; there are now
so many different opportunities,” says
Lorraine Trotter, dean of the Centre
for Hospitality and Culinary Arts.
“There is an opportunity to be a chef
in a retirement living facility, in food
product development; there are opportunities in emerging industries, and
those industries and segments of the
industry offer different lifestyles and
different values.”
Moving forward, operators must
hire creatively, advises the CRFA’s
Erjavec. “Here in Nova Scotia, we’re
working closely with the community
services to try to get people on social
assistance … into the workforce;
other employers are working with
First Nations communities. They’re
working with immigrant associations
to look for workers. I spoke to a guy
from Cape Breton — they’ve turned to
international students at the university
to fill labour shortages. Necessity is the
mother of invention. There’s no one
simple magic bullet to labour shortage,
and operators are exploring
them all.” l
LABOUR
CHANGING
OF
THE
GUARD
Is it time to rethink the way hospitality
graduates are treated in the workforce?
BY BRUCE MCADAMS & MIKE VON MASSOW
T
he hospitality industry could be
losing a generation of future leaders. It’s not that there’s a shortage
of passionate young people, but we’re
not treating our future managers differently than the transient employees we
use in front-line positions; as a result,
many of them are leaving the industry.
To solve this problem, leadership development needs to be strategic and specific
to the people we want to promote. We
can’t take for granted that bright and
ambitious young people want to manage
our businesses.
Case in point: last year two students
from the University of Guelph’s School
of Hospitality and Tourism Management
in Ontario conducted a research project
examining their peers’ perceptions of the
industry as an employer. The students,
Lindsay Barron and Matthew Azevedo,
were in their graduating semester and had
completed year-long co-op placements
at resort hotels in Western Canada. With
their academic careers winding down,
both wondered what their future career
held for them. Initially, they were keen
to pursue a future in hospitality management — Azevedo most likely in foodservice and Barron in accommodation.
But, four years later, although Barron
was still determined to find a career in
the industry, Azevedo had decided his
future lay elsewhere. Regardless of their
final career objectives, the duo was determined to address and document issues
that concern students and recent graduates from hospitality programs across
the country. They hoped their research
would encourage industry leaders to create a more supportive, complementary
and mutually beneficial relationship with
their employees.
The following article presents Barron
and Azevedo’s findings, followed by the
school faculty’s experience with students
and recent grads.
33
LABOUR
THE STUDENT PERSPECTIVE
For their research, Barron and Azevedo
interviewed approximately 150 hospitality students from colleges and
universities across Canada. Students
were asked 30 questions about earning
potential, compensation and work-life
balance. Below is an excerpt from their
research paper:
“
Respondents were asked to
reflect on the following statement: “The
earning potential of the hospitality
industry appeals to me.” The findings
show a decline in positive feelings
about earning potential as the students
approached graduation and full-time
employment in the industry.
When asked to list what they dislike
about the industry, one respondent
stated: “The number of hours management has to work and the difference in
pay between managers and servers.”
Respondents were also asked to rate
their feelings about the statement “The
compensation for work is fair in the hospitality industry.” Fifty-two per cent of
the first- and second-year respondents
surveyed agreed or strongly agreed
that compensation for work is fair. Thirdand fourth-year respondents had a
more divided perception as only 28 per
cent agree or strongly agree with the
statement. And, the perception among
recent graduates shifted further as only
16 per cent agreed, while 0 per cent
strongly agreed with the statement.
In a preceding question, respondents
were asked to list the two qualities
they liked least about the hospitality
industry. This open-format question did
not require respondents to explicitly list
two separate items. Overall, the word
“hours” was mentioned 54 per cent
of the time. Perhaps more telling is a
breakdown by year: first- and secondyear students mentioned “hours” in 42
per cent of the responses, while thirdand fourth-year students mentioned
the word 56 per cent of the time, and
recent graduates mentioned it 71 per
cent of the time.
”
50%
“The earning potential of the hospitality
industry appeals to me”
40%
30%
20%
1st - 2nd Year
10%
3rd - 4th Year
Recent Grads
0%
Strongly
Agree
50%
Agree
Neutral
Disagree
Strongly
Disagree
“The compensation for work is fair
in the hospitality industry”
40%
30%
20%
1st - 2nd Year
10%
3rd - 4th Year
Recent Grads
0%
Strongly
Agree
Agree
Neutral
Disagree
Strongly
Disagree
THE FACULTY PERSPECTIVE
It’s understood hospitality students
don’t always graduate into the industry,
and that fact isn’t exclusive to North
America. In 2008, researchers from
Griffith University in Australia found
that one-third of its hospitality students
didn’t pursue a career in the industry upon their graduation. When the
researchers examined why, a disturbing fact was noted: almost all of the
students made their decisions based on
the work experiences they had while
attending college.
Meanwhile, industry leaders across
Canada often discuss the increasing
difficulty they have recruiting and
retaining staff and management personnel. In fact, the university’s 2012
study of Canadian foodservice executives shows 64 per cent of operators
felt ‘attracting, retaining and motivating
top talent’ was one of the greatest challenges facing their organization.
Interestingly, research shows the
LABOUR
millennial generation has its own set
of unique values and attitudes, which
translate to a new set of work expectations. “This group has largely been
taught by their baby-boomer parents
to be independent-minded, to question authority and negotiate with their
parents and teachers rather than listen
to authority,” says additional research
conducted by Sean Lyons, a professor
at the U of Guelph in the HR faculty.
“They’re the product of the self-esteem
parenting movement and have received
a lot of positive attention throughout
their lives.” One would think this kind
of attention would have purely positive long-term effects, but Lyons has
also noted negative results, such as an
“extremely high sense of self-esteem
that’s not rooted in achievement or
proven success.”
This point was driven home recently by a graduate of the U of Guelph
hospitality program. After managing
a restaurant for two years, she said: “I
don’t want to be a part of someone
else’s journey; I want to be on my own
journey.” This young woman who had
been looking to switch from operations
into a support function realized both
jobs were hard to secure, and she left
the industry entirely. This solution may
A NEW PERSPECTIVE
Former University of Guelph
students Lindsay Barron and
Matthew Azevedo surveyed their
peers and recent graduates from the
school’s hospitality programs about
opportunities in their field. Below are
impactful quotes from the project.
“I have realized that to
move up the ladder I am going
to have to take pay cuts and
work ... longer hours with
less compensation for more
responsibility. I am still
pursuing a career in the
industry, but I worry I may
burn out quickly.”
“I [have] realized the effect
industry hours could have on my
marriage and future family.”
x
seem foreign to older generations, but
operators who are employing young
people need to understand their perspective. It’s impossible to change the
thoughts and beliefs of a generation, so
hospitality veterans have to change their
cultures and expectations.
Extend the millennial’s focus on self
to a leadership context and other issues
arise. Not only are young people mostly
concerned for their own well-being,
but being a ‘leader’ does not often
appeal to them. Leadership ratings are
at an all-time low, as millennials have
grown up during a period of increased
exposure to the shortcomings of politicians, CEOs and athletes who were
once role models. Ultimately, the idea
of being a leader or manager of a work
team no longer drives students to the
hospitality industry; in many cases it’s
not even on their radar. Couple that
with the fact that restaurant employees
lose the opportunity to make tips —
ultimately taking a pay cut to become
a manager — and it’s hardly a surprise
there is a dearth of young leadership in
the industry.
That said, it’s common for hospitality students to be given early supervisory
or management jobs while still at school
or in a co-op placement, although many
who have had these opportunities often
feel taken advantage of and unsupported. In one case, a student explained how
she had been promoted to a supervisory
role but was forced to continue working
part-time as a server to earn tips to subsidize the low pay. Unfortunately, it’s
an accepted reality in many segments
of the restaurant industry that workers should earn less money and work
longer hours before they can gain more
responsibility.
NOW WHAT?
The industry’s struggles to attract and
retain top young talent is hardly a new
problem. But, what is new is the context
in which we operate. As an industry,
we have created and learned to adapt
to continuous turnover, which makes
us dependent on a new workforce. But,
it could be dangerous to count on millennials to meet the industry’s employment needs without understanding
what motivates them. It’s a small generation, with different attitudes and
expectations, leading to potential staffing challenges if the employment situation doesn’t improve.
With that in mind, the industry
needs to work on staff retention, especially if fewer young workers are choosing to remain in the industry. This
means treating each employee and new
entrant — especially those who are considering a career in the industry — as
an asset. In a labour-intensive industry
that relies on people to sell products,
it’s necessary to adapt a new approach
in the management of our greatest and
most precious asset, our people.
When it comes to menu items,
inventory systems, service delivery and
other tangible concepts, the foodservice
industry is innovative. So, it’s important to apply that same creativity and
innovation to new job designs, compensation systems and expectations. To
effectively do this, we need to acknowledge the severity of the issue and work
together to solve it as an industry. We
need to view this research as a wakeup call, which will remind us to treat
hospitality students well, engage them
and show them what’s great about our
industry. Our future, after all, is in their
hands. l
Bruce McAdams and Mike von Massow
are assistant professors at the School of
Hospitality and Tourism Management at
the University of Guelph in Ontario. They
can be reached at [email protected]
and [email protected].
EQUIPMENT
SMOKIN’
HOT
F&H offers tips to sourcing
and installing top-notch
smokers and barbecues
BY DENISE DEVEAU
T
here was a time when
only a handful of
smokehouses populated the urban landscape.
Today, as demand grows
for hearty delicacies such as
pulled pork, beef brisket and
slow-cooked ribs, smokers
and barbecues are becoming
mainstays.
Almost everyone who
smokes or barbecues food is
extremely passionate about it.
David Neinstein, chef and coowner of Barque Smokehouse
in Toronto, has even spent
time training in the U.S. and
judging BBQ Pit Masters
competitions. He respects the
nuances between the terms
barbecuing and smoking.
“Barbecuing is to smoke in the
classic South American tradition sense. That is, to
use indirect heat,” he says.
“What a lot of people call
barbecuing is actually grilling. The main difference is
you have a direct heat source
underneath the grill.”
Neinstein has two smokers — one at his restaurant
and another at his commissary
location (both in Toronto).
At Barque, he has a Southern
Pride SPK-500 (500-lb. capacity), a combined wood-burning and gas-fired unit that
weighs about a ton and rotates
food rotisserie-style throughout the day and overnight. His
catering division has an SPK850 model, which is cheaper
but longer and thinner. “I was
trained on it,” he says. “It’s
one of the smarter smokers
available.”
To Neinstein, the most
important feature on his
smoker is the thermostat that
allows him to set a timer and
desired temperature, which is
maintained within 5°F to 8°F.
“I can put food in at night
and go home after setting a
standard 225°F temperature.
Once the wood burns out, the
gas-fired burner will continue
to heat it. The internal gauge
determines if more heat is
needed as the wood burns,”
he says.
Once cooking is complete, the smoker switches
to a 150°F “holding pattern” — just hot enough to
keep bacteria from growing
but low enough to prevent
the meat from continuing to
cook, Neinstein explains. This
feature is invaluable, because
it means there doesn’t need
to be someone on site to add
wood or monitor the machine
THE HARDWARE:
Danny Kleinsasser
(right), owner of
Danny’s Whole Hog
BBQ & Smokehouse
in Winnipeg, uses
a combination of
stationary and portable smokers; (left)
The 2014 Broil King
Imperial XL features
two independent
ovens and six independent burners
for airflow changes.
The smoker is so integral
to Barque’s operation that
real estate for the restaurant
was scouted with the equipment in mind. “We landed on
a location that had a double
door that opened wide. That
was important, because [the
product] comes as a big box
— about 6x6x6 feet — that
can’t be disassembled and
reassembled. We were able to
roll it in. I’m told others have
had to remove a front window or use a crane to get one
in,” says the businessman.
It was also possible to vent
directly onto the roof due to
the 20-foot ceilings. “If we
had another couple of floors
on top we would have had to
vent outside, which can be
cost-prohibitive. If you were
in a building with six storeys
or more, it could cost tens
of thousands of dollars for
the venting alone,” Neinstein
says.
Once the unit was
installed, Neinstein called
an engineer and fire inspectors to ensure it met safety
requirements. It needed
a straight chimney with a
ventilated duct, a hood with
enough suction to draw the
air to the roof and a built-in
fire suppression system (in
this case, it’s built into the
smoker).
The chef estimates the
equipment, delivery, installation and hood mechanism
cost $30,000, plus an additional $4,000 to $5,000 for
venting. “That’s about what
you’d spend on a wood-fired
pizza oven from Naples,
[Italy],” he notes.
Neinstein has also worked
with smaller units, including
a Traeger electric wood-pellet
unit ($700 to $1,500). “It’s
SUPPLYSIDE
Below is noteworthy smoker/
barbecue equipment:
Southern Pride’s new SRG-400
is a gas-fired, wood-burning,
stationary rack smoker that can
be loaded/unloaded from the
front or back. It fits through a
standard 36-inch doorway and
under a standard depth hood.
Bradley’s new two-rack smoker
is compact and uses convection
oven heating, so it can smoke for
up to six hours. Bisquettes are
available in 12 flavours.
Fast Eddy’s by Cookshack
FEC120 is a wood-burning,
pellet-fired smoker. It features
an electronic control system for
setting smoke cooking time and
temperature and holding temperature. It has a capacity
of 150 lbs. and 15 sq. ft. of
cooking space.
The newly designed 2014 Broil
King’s Imperial XL features two
independent ovens, providing
more than 1,000 sq. inches. of
cooking space. It features six
independent burners (rated at
60,000 BTU output), a 15,000
BTU stainless-steel rear rotisserie
burner and a 10,000 BTU
side burner.
not insulated, so it’s more
for general home cooking.
Cookshack also makes an
electric box model that works
off pellets. And, Bradley produces smaller units that can
be as small as two-feet tall by
one-foot deep, which makes
them great for small restaurants,” Neinstein says.
Danny Kleinsasser, owner
of Danny’s Whole Hog BBQ
& Smokehouse, Buck’s Sports
Lounge, catering operations
and a commissary in the
Winnipeg area, has a combination of stationary and
portable units from Southern
Pride. He’s always been a
EQUIPMENT
big proponent of investing in quality equipment
sourced through meticulous research. “You can
have the best barbecue
sauce and spices in the
world, but that has to go
hand-in-hand with the
right equipment with the
right temperature control,” he says.
When researching a
new piece of equipment,
Kleinsasser considers
service and maintenance.
“I don’t want to buy
something if I can’t get
overnight service,” he
explains, adding that easy
installation is important.
“We were given the blueprint, and all we needed
to do was get an electrician to install it. It only
took a day,” he says.
Of course, smokers
also need complementary
equipment. Barque has a
Winston Industries CVap
holding oven ($3,000) to
prevent meat from drying
out. Other must-haves
include a vacuum sealer,
immersion blenders, spice
grinders and mixers for
creating rubs and sauces.
But, smoking isn’t
always the favoured
choice when it comes to
cooking over a flame. For
Peter Wright, owner of
Guerilla Gourmet Corp.,
a Mississauga, Ont.-based
provider of outdoor event
cooking demonstrations,
grilling is the way to go,
despite the fact his gigantic, specially appointed
Extreme BBQ Trailer has
a dedicated space for a
smoker. “Smokers take
far too long when you’re
at a festival or event,” he
explains.
When selecting a
barbecue, he checks the
proximity of the grill to
the heat source, capacity
and construction. “There
are commercial grills that
have terrific capacity for
around $2,500 to $3,500,”
he says. “Crown Verity is
a good one, and it’s easy
to find. It has capacity
options, ranging from 30
to 100 inches. Vermont
Castings went bankrupt,
but you can still find
units, because they’re so
popular. Broil King also
has some great grills.
One of my favourites is
a two-cover design, so
you can cook fish on one
and burgers on the other
and never the twain shall
meet.”
As far as heat sources
go, “You can’t beat the
speed and control you get
with propane or natural
gas,” Wright says, adding
that he cooks with charcoal when he has time,
when he’s producing a
gourmet menu or when
he’s trying to achieve a
certain taste.
Overall, Wright doesn’t
look for fancy functions
when sourcing a barbecue. “Electronic starters
or thermometers are
the things that go first.
Any professional will
have a meat thermometer anyway. The most
important thing to look
for is a stainless-steel or
cast-iron construction or
a combination of both.
Stainless-steel is great for
quickly cooking food like
vegetables [that] don’t
stick much. For authentic
carnivore stuff, I go oldschool and use cast iron,”
he says.
The better the barbecue, the better the temperature control. “If you
go cheap, you will have
to replace it more often,”
Wright advises. “You’re
better served buying
something that will throw
big amounts of heat, control [temperatures] and
stand the test of time.” l
POURING FOR PROFITS
CHEERS
TO GOOD
HEALTH
Consumers are paying
big bucks for nutritious juice
BY JENNIFER FEBBRARO
I
n a culture obsessed with
celebrity diets, it’s easy to see
why juice bars have become
so popular. Case in point, media
outlets have reported that pop
icon Nicole Richie does a weekly
juice cleanse — for health purposes only, of course. And, Us
Weekly revealed supermodel
Naomi Campbell just finished a
10-day juice cleanse.
Whether or not the celeb
news is completely accurate,
there’s no mistake that the
Canadian juice market is growing exponentially every year, and
operators are searching for a
competitive edge.
The 2013 Technomic
“Canadian Chain Restaurant
Report” reveals Booster Juice,
Jugo Juice, Orange Julius and
Freshly Squeezed appear on the
Top 200 list of top-earning franchises in Canada, with Booster
Juice ranked as the highestearning juice bar at number 34
and Jugo Juice a distant second
at 82. “Consumers are more
concerned than ever with making healthy choices,” explains
Kelly Weikel, senior consumer
research manager at Technomic,
a Chicago-based research firm.
“And, juicing as well as juice
cleanses are trends helping the
marketplace thrive.”
Case-in-point: Liquid
Nutrition, a five-year-old,
Montreal-based franchise, with
16 units worldwide, recorded
a 33 per cent jump in sales
from 2011 to 2012. Chantal
Chamandy, co-founder, says
juicing is the way of the future.
“Juicing is here to stay. The reality is people do not consume
enough vitamins, because they
don’t eat enough raw vegetables,” she explains.
At Liquid Nutrition, between
$6 to $10 worth of fruits and
veggies are squeezed into a
16-oz. cup. “Our specialty bladeless juicing machines operate
by compressing the juice out of
the vegetables,” says Chamandy.
“You get pure juice — no filler
products such as water or any
other liquids.” The juice bar
offers a range of “functional
beverages,” such as Inspire, a
juice designed to fight toxins
and cleanse the intestines, liver
and kidneys. It’s made with
cucumber, celery, lemon and
kale ($5.95/12-oz).
Customers are indeed willing
to pay a premium for quality.
Just ask the staff at Fraser Valley
Juice & Salad in Vancouver, a
35-year mainstay. “Customers
complained a little when we
raised the price of juices by 10
per cent,” two years ago due to
inflation, explains Janice Lam,
store manager, but whatever the
complaints, it didn’t keep them
away. Bestselling juices at Fraser
Valley include ginger, mint and
orange; beet, celery and carrot;
and tropical juice (orange, kiwi,
pineapple, strawberry) — each
16-oz glass costs $7.95. The
current bestselling single flavour juices are organic orange
($6.25/16-oz) and organic carrot
($7.50/16-oz).
When asked about trends,
Lam laughs. “People always
[ask] if a fruit or vegetable is
organic,” she says. Either way,
sales prove customers across the
country believe the healthy elixir
is worth every nickel. l
GREENIFY YOUR JUICES
The next big trend in juicing is the elimination of fruits. “You can make a delicious, green juice without a
single fruit,” enthuses Chantal Chamandy, co-founder of Montreal’s Liquid Nutrition franchise, explaining that
a drink can be made with kale, celery and parsley. Vancouver’s Fraser Valley Juice & Salad also offers customers the option to ‘greenify’ fruit juices by adding a hearty serving of Greens-Plus. Virtually all juice bars
in Canada now offer the option of adding a shot of wheat grass to beverages. “We see it simply as ‘risk
prevention,’” explains Chamandy, of the trend propelled by a wide demographic of old and young informed
consumers. Meanwhile, Jugo Juice’s line of Veggie Smoothies includes one or two fruits to make the vegetables more appetizing.
41
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43
CHEF’S CORNER
ROCK
STAR
Murray McDonald takes
inspiration from his ancestors
to make old Newfoundland
delicacies new again at the
Fogo Island Inn
G
rowing up in rural Newfoundland, Murray McDonald’s
ultimate dream was to be a rock star and travel the world. “I
spent my high school years playing guitar and scraping by in
school,” he laughs. “I had tattoos, long hair, nine guitars, two amps
and attitude.”
But, when his rock star dreams fell flat, McDonald realized becoming a chef would give him an opportunity to see the world while
honing a new craft. Eager to share his love of food, and inspired by
traditional Newfoundland recipes, he moved to P.E.I. to attend The
Culinary Institute of Canada at Holland College.
After graduation, McDonald took jobs in P.E.I. and Ontario before
succumbing to the travel bug and moving to Bermuda. From there,
he cooked his way to many international destinations in the Cayman
Islands, the Cook Islands, New Zealand, China and Mexico before
returning to home soil as executive sous chef at the Fairmont Pacific
Rim, Vancouver in 2010.
But, approximately two years ago, McDonald stumbled across an
opportunity to take all that he had learned in his travels back home
to Newfoundland to work at Fogo Island Inn, which has since been
named one of “Canada’s Best New Restaurants” of 2013 by EnRoute
magazine. “To travel the world and make your way back home is
interesting,” he muses. “If anyone had told me six years ago that I
would be back in Newfoundland, cooking Newfoundland food and
winning awards for it I would have laughed,” he adds.
BITS & BITES
Favourite ingredient: “Salt cod; it
brings me back to my childhood.”

Favourite
kitchen tool:
“At the end
of the day,
all you need
is heat and
knives, and
you can cook
great food.”
But, that’s exactly what happened. While working at the Fairmont
Pacific Rim, McDonald heard about plans to build the Fogo Island
Inn. Intrigued, he emailed the inn, inquiring about an executive chef
position. “The job was never advertised,” McDonald recalls. “I sent
[the email]; four hours later they called me, and here I am.”
Since joining the hotel team in 2012, McDonald has embraced
the Fogo Island Inn’s philosophy of honouring the long-standing
traditions embedded into its community, and he’s incorporated that
mindset into his culinary mandate.
More than just a source-local ideal, the dishes served at the inn’s
restaurant make use of products traditionally used in Newfoundland
cuisine. The chef cans vegetables as well as preserves and includes wild
game on his menu; foraging also plays a significant role in providing
ingredients for the restaurant. For supper, the kitchen team prepares
a five-course, set menu, which changes daily ($95). In the past, guests
have enjoyed salt cod cakes, beef pudding and cod as well as a dish
playfully named “a caribou and what it eats,” made with caribou,
caribou moss, partridgeberry, mushroom and sorrel.
And, the thirty-something chef is looking forward to creating
more, as the hotel will soon house an on-site root cellar, heated greenhouses and gardens. “We’re trying to go back to the old way of how
people [here] lived. I’m really inspired by cooking techniques and
things that are passed down through the generations,” he explains,
adding: “If food doesn’t have a history, it has no soul.” ●
Culinary inspiration:
“My mother and my
grandmothers.”
Favourite culinary destination:
“New Zealand. I loved the food there.”
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX FRADKIN
BY DANIELLE SCHALK
Tonight, serve an evening
they’ll remember forever...
Tonight they are yours. To enchant. To delight. To wow.
Only Mirabel offers the consistent and exacting quality
shrimp you demand from sustainable sources worldwide.
Bring them back with a meal they’ll remember.
1.800.387.7422 highlinerfoodservice.com

Breakfast - Foodservice and Hospitality Magazine

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