EaglestoneGuide_Rockclimbing

A Climber’s Guide To...
eaglestonerock
overview
Protection is either by chemically fixed bolts or traditional
methods. Abseil stations are positioned atop each of the
major boulders, as indicated on the topographic map on
the next page. The best climbing conditions can be had
during the drier parts of spring and autumn but be aware
that temperatures can sink below zero at night during
these times of year. This crag can get hot during the summer months of the year so should probably be avoided.
the locals
Be sure to pick up an excellent steak pie at Baker’s Hill on
the way out of Perth. Merredin’s French Hot Bread Shop on
Barrack St. offers fantastic cakes and great value - their
bee stings are not to be missed. The Mukinbudin pub, only
20 minutes drive north has quality pub food and cheap
drinks too. The Nungarin Hotel, 15mins away, also has top
notch pizza and counter meals.
camping
Camping is only a couple of minutes walk away from the
climbing, here. Park and camp at the base of the rock,
where a rubbish bin is provided. Bring your own water as
there is none available. Alternatively, you could stay at the
caravan park in Nungarin, approx 15mins away.
eaglestone rock climbing guide
Overview
getting there
If you head out from Perth early on Saturday morning, the 3
and a bit hour drive lands you at Eaglestone with time for a
good day’s climbing. Camp overnight and take advantage of
improved friction in the morning.
Depart Perth via the Great Eastern Highway and head east
until you reach Merredin. Head north to Lake Brown by
following these directions:
1. Turn left off Great Eastern Hwy onto Barrack St.
. Turn left onto Gamenya Av. after 71 metres
3. Turn right at Nungarin Rd. after 1.3km
4. Continue along Railway Av.
5. Continue along Goomalling-Merredin Rd.
6. Bear right at Knungagin-Merredin Rd., continue for
22km
7. Bear right at Cornish Rd., continue for 10km
8. Turn right at Lake Brown South Rd., continue for about
4km until the road bears left sharply. Instead, continue
straight onto the sand track (2wd safe) which winds all
the way around to the back of the rock.
Locality Map
Area Topograph
area listing
1. Bitter Area
2. Terradome Wall
3. Mini Me Boulder
4. Clockwork Orange Area
5. Fidget Gene Area
8
6. Emu Wall
*
7. Wishbone Wall
8. Bad Seed Boulders
7
*
*
*
6
1
*
*
5
2
3
*
4
eaglestone rock climbing guide
1 Bitter Area
2
3
1
1. Bitter (9m, 16, 3BR to DBB, fa:JG Nov ‘05)
Slabby moves continue to pleasant top out to DBB.
2. Juice It Up (13m, 20, 3BR to DBB, fa:MR ‘05)
3. Nudie (13m, 19, 2BR to DBB, fa:KVA ‘05)
2 Terradome Wall
The Terradome Wall can be reached by ascending to the
top of the Mini Me boulder 1m R of MM.
4. 21 Jump Street (10m, 21, 3BR to DBB, fa:KVA ‘06)
A cool, dynamic start up the face past 3BR to belay
station atop the main boulder.
5. Terradome (10m, 26, 2BR to DBB, fa:JG ‘06)
Stick-clip the first bolt to protect hard, crimpy start.
4
5
eaglestone rock climbing guide
3 Mini Me Boulder
6. Whiplash
(12m, 25, 5BR to NB, fa:JG)
7. Ithica –
(12m, 21, 4BR to NB, fa:MR)
8. Project (12m, 4BR, equipped:MR)
9. Jaundice (8m, 14, Trad, fa:SVA)
Take the high road and enjoy some
smooth moves up the top crack. If
anyone is keen enough to solely
use the bottom crack, grovel away.
10. Mini Me (6m, 10, Trad, fa:SVA)
Short but sweet moves on the side
of the Mini Me boulder to ascend to
the terrace.
8
7
6
Terradome
Wall
10
9
Matt on Ithica
eaglestone rock climbing guide
eaglestone rock climbing guide
Kim on Clockwork Orange
4 Clockwork Orange Area
11. Project (20m, 6BR to DBB, equipped:MR)
12. Clockwork Orange (13m, 20, 3BR, fa:KVA)
11
12
5 Fidget Gene Area
13. Spineless Compression
(18m, 23, Trad to DBB, fa:JG, Jul ‘06)
14. Project
(18m, 4BR to DBB, equipped:KVA)
15. Project (18m, Trad + 2BR to DBB)
Start as for Fidget Gene, trend left out
of crack after 5m and continue up fine
crimps to DBB.
16. Fidget Gene – (18m, 23, Trad, fa:KVA)
Eaglestone’s big crack classic. Start in
the obvious overhang and jam whatever
you can in to get up. Take at least two
big cams (new 5 Camalots or similar)
and the rest of your big SLCDs with you
to plug the hole.
15
13
14
16
eaglestone rock climbing guide
6 Emu Wall
17. Capachow (16m, 19, Trad + 3BR, fa:JG ‘06)
Place gear in the spine to protect the lower section of
this climb.
18. Project (18m, 7BR, equipped:AG)
19. You Don’t Know Jack (18m, 17, 6BR, fa:KVA ‘06)
20. Sparrow (18m, 17, 5BR, fa:KVA ‘05)
Start this line from the adjacent boulder pile, throwing
yourself onto the wall to clip the first BR.
21. Levitation (19m, 19, 5BR, fa:JG ‘05)
22. Emu Walking (17m, 21, Trad + 4BR, fa:KVA Jul ‘06)
Terrace most easily gained from the left hand side. Use
small cams in the break to protect top section.
23. Full Throttle – (17m, 25, Trad + 6BR, fa:JG)
Use small cams in the break to protect top section.
23
22
21
17
18
eaglestone rock climbing guide
19
20
21
Steff atop Bitter
eaglestone rock climbing guide
7 Wishbone Wall
24. Fear The Smear
(14m, 21, 6BR to DBB, fa:JG
Jul ‘06)
Smear like you’ve never
smeared before to hit sidepull and crank upwards.
25. Wishbone
(15m, 17, Trad + 5BR, fa:KVA
Jul ‘06)
Mantle onto the break and
protect the next move with
wires or small cams. Head
up the steeper end of the
spine to the face and continuing BRs.
26. Project
(16m, 6BR, equipped:GL)
26
24
25
Jay punishing Whiplash, 25
eaglestone rock climbing guide
10
8 Bad Seed Boulders
27. Cold Nights (10m, 18, 3BR, fa:AG Jul ‘06)
Clip first BR from the gap between two boulders.
Gracefully grovel over the lip to clip 2nd BR, then
continue up face to abseil station atop boulder.
28. Second Chamber (11m, 22, 3BR to DBB, fa:JG ‘06)
Thin and crimpy climbing, tough second clip.
29. Bad Seed (11m, 17, 2BR to DBB, fa:JG ‘06)
Good footwork pays off with a short but enjoyable
ascent to the top of the Bad Seed boulder.
30. Freeballer (8m, 20R, Trad, fa:JG ‘06)
Room for one cam in the gap. Yes, it really is ballsy.
27
28
29
30
11
eaglestone rock climbing guide
Kim pulling some pretty sweet moves on Fidget Gene
padded cell
a padded cell production
brought to you by the letter h
MMVI
designed and compiled by angus griffin with the assistance of
kim and steff van amerongen, jay girdlestone, claire devereux,
matty rogers and glen ludlam