1913 #2 Winter Coat -- Manteau d`Hiver

1913 #2 Winter Coat -- Manteau d’Hiver
This overcoat, in view of the cold season gaining, has to be made out of thick wool;
however, if you do not have, to make it, [other] than a lighter cloth, you will make it
warm as well by lining [or doubling] it.
Six patterns are needed: moitie du devant [half of the front], moitie du dos [half of the
back], moitie de la manche [half of the sleeve], moitie du col [half of the collar], du
parement [of the facing or cuff] and of the martingale [half-belt].
The first thing to do is to trace and cut out the patterns.
Devant [Front]. – Take a rectangle of fabric, on the straight-thread on its four sides,
and having 20 centimeters in height and 10 and a half in width. Place the pattern on top
while observing that this pattern must be placed, compared to the straight-threads of your
fabric, as it is on the gray background relative with the lines of the framework of the
drawing. Failing to observe this point, the front would not hang well.
Cut all around the pattern without you [having] to worry to leave additional fabric for
the seams: these are included in the line of the drawing. Place this front on another
rectangle of cloth having the same height and the same width as the first, and take care
that these two layers are wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side,
without which you would have two fronts for the same side.
If I did not say to you, at this time, to place the pattern of the front on the fabric folded
double, it is [because] that we [are] supposed to make use of a thick wool and that it is
better, in this case, to cut out one front first, then the other. But if you have a lighter
fabric, you will cut out the two fronts at the same time.
Dos [Back]. – The pattern is given in half. After having traced and cut it out, you will
place it on the fabric folded double while putting the dotted line bearing these words
“milieu du dos, etc.” [middle of the back, etc.] edge to edge with the fold of the fabric.
Cut out all around except for the side of the dotted line which will be to make the middle
of the back. Open your fabric: you have, in hand, the back from only one piece.
Manche [Sleeve]. – The pattern is in half, but with an indication of variant of which I
will speak at the time.
Place the pattern on the fabric folded double while placing the dotted line edge to edge
with the fold of the fabric. Then, you will remove, on one side only of the sleeve, the
little tongue of fabric which is enclosed at the top, between the exterior outline and the
line crossed with small strokes.
This side indented will make the underside of the sleeve. Open your fabric you have in
hand, a sleeve of only one piece. Place it on a piece of fabric, while taking care that its
middle follows the straight-thread of this piece and that the two fabrics are wrong side
against wrong side or right side against right side, and cut out the second sleeve by
following the contours of the first.
Col [Collar]. – Trace the pattern and place it on the fabric folded double by putting its
dotted line edge to edge with the fold of the fabric.
Parement et martingale ou patte du dos [Facing/cuff and half-belt or fastening of the
back]. -- These are bands on the straight-thread having the height indicated by the pattern
but double the length. [Editor: Note that you will be cutting out two half-belts that will
overlap in the back. The overlap will be held in place by two buttons.]
Assembly. – The fronts are joined to the back by the shoulder seams b c and the side
seams e f.
The sleeves are mounted around the armhole by placing the point d of the sleeve
(seam of the crook of the arm) to the point d accompanied by a small arrow of the
armhole in front.
The facings [cuffs] and the collar of our model are out of striped silk. This is more
stylish. However one can make them very well out of silk satin, plain velvet and also out
of the same cloth as that of the coat.
One lines them with a light silk or a little sateen. Failing this, one can take colored
lawn, because it is necessary to make with what one has and to never torment anyone to
obtain what one does not have.
The collar is mounted around the neckline. One places its point m (milieu) at the
point m of the back of the coat. The points of the collar a a must arrive at the points a of
the fronts.
The half-belt is placed on the back, at the height of the waist, are two buttons. It is
intended to tighten the fullness of the back.
The coat is closed by snaps. One puts, on the side which crosses over the other, two
ornamental buttons.
Translation copyright 2011 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com