1910 #20 Costume de Quatier – Maitre -

1910 #20 Costume de Quatier – Maitre -- Sailor Suit
For this suit, 10 patterns are needed. It is composed of a dress without sleeves, or skirt
sewn onto a bodice, and of a jacket with a sailor collar.
You will make, this week the dress. You will prepare the collar and the sleeves. We
will finish the suit next week.
Fig.1. – This is the whole suit finished.
Fig.2. – Patron du col [Pattern of the collar]; it is on the straight thread on three sides.
Fig.3 and 4. – Devant et dos du gilet [Front and back of the bodice]
The front is pointed out to you three quarters. Trace the pattern until the dotted line
which passes just through the middle of the front and place it on the fabric folded double,
putting the dotted line edge to edge with the fold of the fabric.
The pattern of the back will also be placed on the fabric folded double, or on two
pieces placed wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side.
The back and the front are joined together by the shoulder seams (a) and those of the
sides (b, c).
The bodice is closed at the back by snaps. It is decorated in front with small soutache
or very narrow velvet. It is better to sew on this ornament before assembling the back
and the front, because the ends of the soutache or velvet will go in the seams; this will be
neater.
The anchor which is at the top of the page was enlarged intentionally, in order to be
able to be useful to your mothers for a suit for a child. For the doll, you will take the
model of the small anchor which is drawn on the sleeve, where it is more novel to place
it.
Fig.5. – Manche de la vereuse [Sleeve of the jacket]. It is made from only one piece.
The pattern will thus be placed on the fabric folded double, the dotted line put edge to
edge with the fold of the fabric, which one will not have to cut. The sleeve is closed by
the seam d c. The anchor is embroidered before closing. It is more convenient. The
embroidery is made in buttonhole stitch except for the rope which will be made with the
cordonnet stitch [overcastting stitch].
Fig.6. – Jupe plissee [Pleated skirt]. – The engraving is divided in two parts: pleating
in the course of execution is on the left; the shaded parts come back in under the white
part. The part of the engraving which is on the right shows you the pleating finished.
Notice that the pleat which must be in the middle of the skirt takes up double the surface
of that which is taken up by the knife pleats on the right and on the left of the pleat of the
middle.
For this suit, you will choose a little light wool, or flannel, or serge – if however you
have the choice of materials. It is understood that you will never show yourselves
demanding and will take what your mothers will be able to give you.
As colors to choose, navy blue recommends itself; you can also make this in white or
red wool – [with] small gilded buttons. We will finish, moreover, the suit in the next
issue.
Translation copyright 2010 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com