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no. 4
2014
creative perspectives on retail lighting solutions
CONNECTED
CONSUMERS
Vivikes found
new identity
INTERVIEW:
Margareta Andersson
involves all senses in retail
COLOURFUL
CREATIONS
LATEST TRENDS
NEW TECHNOLOGY
BEAUTY IN THE ODD
Co-creation
Spark creativity
through co-creation
Retail is about delivering a branded experience,
telling a story, evoke feelings, create needs, meeting
desires or just making shopping a delight. Retail
environments and concepts are often a result of a
collaborative creative process. Retailers, decorators,
architects, lighting designers and product designers
often play an important part in making it come true.
Ideas melt together to a shop concept that hopefully
will inspire the customers and drive the perception of
the brand.
We have dedicated this issue of The Innovator
magazine to stories were co-creation and creativity
have been key success factors.
We will follow Sound Architect Margareta Andersson
and her interesting work with creating retail
experiences by adding sound to retail concepts. A
London trend workshop will give some insight in how
courageous brands work with in-store branding today
and in the future. We will also share with you how
some of our most interesting customers, Vivikes and
Volt, have created extraordinary shop concepts.
At Fagerhult, we are passionate about retail trends
and concepts, creating branded experiences enhanced
by light. Foremost we enjoy the creative process
working together, where collaborative and innovative
minds come together to spark creativity and set the
retail concepts of tomorrow.
Enjoy!
Sofia Rudbeck
Business Area Director
Fagerhult Retail Lighting Solutions
publisher:
Fagerhult Retail AB
Rinnavägen 12 SE 517 33, Bollebygd, Sweden
Phone: +46 33 722 15 00
www.fagerhult.com/retail
editorial:
Camilla Hult, [email protected]
Elin Nilsson, [email protected]
Katarina Styf, [email protected]
Scott Allen, [email protected]
Fran Pearce
graphic design:
cover photo:
Elin Nilsson, [email protected]
Benjamin Vnuk
Vivikes found identity in
harmony and contrasts. //
16
In this issue
NO. 4, 2014
London report: Trends in retail design
What is new and what matters?
4
Colourful opportunities
Create with colours
44
Interview
Margareta Andersson involves all senses in retail
10
Tools for creation
Geometric shapes
48
Finding identity in harmony and contrasts
A co-creation between Vivikes and Fagerhult
16
Enhancing colours
Marathon Rich and Glow
50
Alpha male address
Alfred Dunhill embodies style and innovation
24
Dressing up your brand
Fagerhult Light AgencyTM
52
Up close and personal
The connected consumer
30
Seeing beauty in the odd
On Demand Design
54
Seamless magnificence
The new Stuart Weitzman flagship store in Milan
36
A total image make-over
LaHalle
58
Volt store concept
Two in one
40
The Brand Theatre coming alive
Realising a showroom fashion shop
60
the innovator
x4
london report: trends in retail design
5
London report:
Trends in retail design – what is new
and what matters?
The annual Retail Week SHOP was an insightful event that gathered an expert panel of
distinguished speakers from across the retail industry to share their visions of retail. So,
what are their ideas and thoughts of the near future?
text katarina styf | photo retail week shop, ©istock.com/causamatias
a collection of the retail markets most
knowledgeable minds, such as David
Dalziel, Creative Director at Dalziel &
Pow and Lorna Hall, Head of Retail &
Strategy WGSN, got together to discuss
and share their ideas and thoughts on
trends and new in-store experiences.
the future of retail
We are getting quite familiar with the
idea of larger retail brands executing
big traditional roll out plans, in which
every store concept look the same. Is
this always the way to go? David Dalziel
believes that it is not.
– It is time to do something different. “Urban Outfitters” and “& Other
Stories” are great examples of brands
that have. It is clearly a trend to be undesigned, David explains. Both of the cited shop concepts have
succeeded to capture the essence of
an unconventional, honest and simple
expression with elements of wood,
bare metal runner rails and retro looking luminaires. & Other stories, an
independent brand within the H&M
Group, has their own creative team
that developed a lifestyle concept with
displays that integrate beauty products
and accessories along with clothing.
Necklaces and nail polish are displayed
on simple wooden shelves with corresponding pairs of shoes alongside a
rail of clothes, rather than being neatly
ordered in organised sections. In
& Other Stories products are arranged
pretty much like the way a woman
might assemble her belongings at
home.
– It is all about the story and H&M
is willing to take the risk with this new
retail brand concept. Too many brands
are too flat without any concept. It is
very important to identify the “big idea”
– to find a niche, to be special and have
constant development cooking within
the business, he continues.
Lorna Hall adds that she believes that
it is the consumers that are driving the
trends. How everyday people actually
consume and think will also, evidently,
shape the design and set up of the shops.
– We need a new way of presenting
shop experiences. Clearly there is a need
for new brands with different approaches.
It is about building brands for the future
and pushing out something relevant
and anti–corporate. New brands that
are adapting fast and reinventing are
interesting and inspirational, Lorna
explains.
x6
Lorna Hall, Head of Retail & Strategy WGSN.
the digital impact
That online retail shopping growth is
increasing rapidly is no secret. Just a
couple of years ago people were sceptic
of purchasing online leaving out credit
card numbers, not being able to touch
and feel the products – but now this is
done by routine. As a consequence of
this; either brands chose, or are forced
to close down shops.
– I don’t think brands will need the
same extent of geographical spread as
previously. Therefore I think we will see
fewer but nevertheless better shops as a
consequence, David Dalziel says.
– I also believe that fewer transactions will be done in the shop. The
physical shop is where consumers
gather information and inspiration. It
need to be less functional and more
inspirational, giving people a reason
to shop, selling something you never
thought you would buy. I think it is good
David Dalziel, Creative Director at Dalziel & Pow.
that retailers are being challenged, he
continues.
shop and brand experience, making
it almost look like a grand museum.
Another brand that has its own 24 h
creating a successful retail theatre
Another topic discussed was the one of
how to create a indulging and inspirational retail shop – the perfect retail
theatre. But really, what is a true retail
theatre experience? Paul Brooks, Joint
MD at SFD, were explaining how trends
translate to enhance the shop environment.
– Retail theatre is always evolving, is
dynamic and reflects the brand essence.
True retail theatres have that “wowfactor. They are fun, immersive and grab
the consumer. They tickle all senses and
can include sound as well as scent, they
offer great expertise and they co-create
with others, Paul explains.
As an example of a successful cocreative brand Paul mention Louis Vuitton.
Here art and culture is included in the
museum is Prada. There is a trend
towards luxury retail is becoming
cultural.
Another side of the retail spectacle
that Paul mentions is the “hipster
hero”, “craft revolution” and when
larger brands go “anti-big”. Tesco is one
example buying more authentic brands
to strengthen their brand portfolio;
Topman goes hipster and Hackett team up
with barbers.
Whether it is about a space where you
can polish your beard while shopping
or being invited to produce your own
product, in-store brand theatre is always
evolving. Nevertheless it should always
be engaging, offer great expertise and
inspiration and carry real values and
stories in a 360° experience.
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Mark Shortland, Retail Director at
Fagerhult UK, was invited to discuss
“Maximum impact, minimum cost
in retail store design” at Retail Week
SHOP. Mark talked about enhancing
customers experience with light,
the LED technology, providing
services that add value and that
the best concepts and solutions are
created in close collaboration with
the customer.
"Many brands are
too flat without any
concept. It is very
important to identify
the big idea."
David Dalziel, Creative Director at
Dalziel & Pow.
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Survey:
Which aspects of store design are
important to consumers?
Percentage of consumers citing the following:*
top 7 cites:
Lots of space between displays so I can easily move around 82 %
Clear signage throughout so I can find what I want
71 %
Good views through the store so I can see what I’m looking for
57 %
Products I can easily reach, touch, feel, play with etc.
53 %
Somewhere I feel comfortable browsing for a while
51 %
Similar items/products grouped together, so the shop makes sense
51 %
Bright lighting so I clearly can see the products
50 %
*Source: Retail Week, Interior report; Store design trends 2013: consumer perspectives.
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Interview:
Involving all senses
in retail
An ideal store environment is one that engages our senses. When working with
light, we are constantly developing lit experiences focusing on the visual sense. But
there is so much more we can do to provide the customer with a total brand experience.
Sound design, or directed sound specifically, is an emerging way of giving visitors a
fantastic feeling of the brands identity.
text camilla hult | photo benjamin vnuk, åhléns, mood stockholm: mathias nordgren
to find out more on how it all works,
we talked to Margareta Andersson,
founder of Lexter, a company that specialises in sound and scent design for
public environments. Margareta came
from the advertising world when she
started her first company working with
sound campaigns for Disney content
music for movies, which later lead her in
to her current occupation. – Working with sound content for
advertising campaigns on Disney movies made me think about the opportunity to have Elton John’s voice from the
Lion King at the part of the shop where
they displayed the movie. We tried a lot
of different ways to do it, but in the end
there was no product that could do the
job at that time. Either there was too
much noise pollution from the sound or
there were too many wires, Margareta
explains.
involving all senses in retail
so what is directed sound?
Directed sound is a technology that
enables you to create concentrated
sound for a certain spot; exactly where
you want it. The difference between
directed sound and traditional speakers
is roughly the equivalent to the effect
of a light bulb compared with the light
from a flashlight.
In 2007 Margareta came across the
first technology that could be used
within retail and other public areas
which didn’t create "noise pollution".
And here is where the story of Lexter
begins. Today Lexter offers a holistic
view within sound design, working
with everything from the acoustics of
the room, psychology behind dynamic
sound to branding and sales driven
messages.
Margareta compares the movement
of sound with a glass of water.
Margareta Andersson.
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Mood in Stockholm.
x
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Mood in Stockholm.
"Margareta compares the
movement of sound with a
glass of water. When you
pour it out on a hard surface
it will bounce and spread
over the room. If you pour
it over a soft material it will
not move but softly sink into
the material."
When you pour it out on a hard surface
it will bounce and spread over the
room. If you pour it over a soft material
it will not move but softly sink into the
material. – We record the sound of the premises before we put our sound to it. We
listen to the recording in our studio and
after that we produce what ever it is we
want to do. We need to know about the
“natural” sound before we design ours,
to avoid making it too noisy.
Scent is something food retailers have
worked with for a long time. The aroma
of freshly made cinnamon buns when
you enter the shop will definitely make
the customer at least consider buying
some. Also chocolate, coffee and citrus
are scents that are common within
scent design. But now, even fashion
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Åhléns City in Stockholm.
retailers start to incorporate scent into
shop concepts. Whyred is one brand
that used both scent and sound to
intensify the shopping experience in the
tough competition with e-commerce.
Lexter planned a modern, urban and
unisex type of scent in the Whyred shop.
mood stockholm One of the largest projects they worked
on was an unusual shopping centre
called Mood Stockholm. Part of their
brief was to transform an indoor shopping centre so that the visitors felt like
they were in a city. Crucial to the success
was getting Lexter involved at the
inception of the project so they could
advise the customer about the essential
choices they had to make early on. Sound was an integral part of shaping
the total experience within Mood
Stockholm while equally providing
individual zones, with their own target
groups, a distinct audio articulation. The
aspirational "Desire" zone houses the
exclusive brands reflected by a high-end
glimmering and sparkling sound. Within
the “Wishing” zone the aim was to
recreate a sense of London’s ultra-trendy
Notting Hill with a soundtrack of soft
guitar and someone whistling, while
the more up-beat, fast and electronic
vibe of the Everyday zone offers a more
mainstream staple of everyday clothing.
Combining individuality with consistency was a real challenge; however Lexter
managed to preserve the natural ambience across all areas to avoid it being
evident that the sounds are changing.
The difference had to be incredibly subtle.
more than music
Margareta is very clear on one thing;
they do not work with music in shops.
Their approach is more sophisticated,
encompassing both branding and
psychology.
How does the customer move compared to how we want them to is the
key question you have to ask yourself
when designing with sound. The placement of every speaker and technical
instrument is meticulously calculated.
The space between the speakers has to
be exact; you can achieve more than you
think by adding sound design, such as
changing the visual expression.
åhléns city Another large project Lexter have been
highly involved in is Åhléns City.
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Åhléns City is of Stockholm’s largest
department stores. Across the bottom
floor there are several areas targeting
different type of customers. These
areas are not separated by walls,
which increase the risk of a high noise
level. The new beauty department
spans 2500 m2 which presents a great
challenge since it is not only a shopping
venue but also a place where people
work.
Within the beauty section there are
a number of departments each with a
different target group and needs. The
cosmetics and skin therapy area necessitated a “feel good”- atmosphere where
the familiarity of sound was paramount. – A cheerful, flowery, timeless pop is
playing, in combination with the commercial tune for the department store. On the opposite spectrum the Creative Make-up section wanted a more
up-beat ambience with a lot of attitude.
With no physical break between the
two areas, there had to be an invisible
border, avoiding an unappealing mash-
up of the sounds.
The café situated on the same floor
had its own sound design with a distinct
Parisian feeling. The objective was to
make the visitor get a touch of France
and a feeling of being outside. There is a
harmonica playing and you can hear the
sound of horse and carriage. To increase
the feeling of being outside the sounds
are designed so they appear to be coming from the street or a café next door.
Lexter has worked with more direct
sales driven messages in supermarkets
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Mood entrance in Stockholm.
where the sound is sales message-focused on a specific area where there is
a sales campaign. If the sound spreads
beyond the targeted areas the result of
the campaign could be compromised or
it could have a negative impact in other
areas of the store.
– A roaming cow is a great sound
when selling milk, but maybe not the
message you want to have when the
customer is at the meat section, Margareta says.
– When working with beverages we
have measured a 60 % increase in sales
with sound design featuring cans open
and ice dropping down in a glass, Margareta continues.
all about timing
Timing is another important consideration. There should be the right
sound level for the specific time of day.
Monday mornings are usually slow and
weekends busier. Than there is a possibility combining audio with a customer
counting system it is possible for the
volume to increase automatically. Lexter
has developed a system where the shop
assistant can control volume and create
playlists for different zones of the store.
And everything can be handled by an
app on the smartphone.
It is central that sound, lighting and
interior cooperate and complement
each other to create the ultimate brand
experience. If this is achieved the customers want to stay longer, shop more
and when they leave they take with
them a total experience of the brand.
x
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Finding identity
in harmony and
contrasts
Inspired by two words; harmony and contrasts, a creative collaboration between
the fashion brand Vivikes and Fagerhult produced a radical change of the Vivikes
identity and two stores in Oslo received a new warm and calm make-over.
text elin nilsson | photo tone tønseth and trude westby
the development of the new Vivikes
shop concept was just like completing a
puzzle. By sketching the right personality for each store, in regards to both the
interior and lighting, all the pieces fell
into place, creating a fantastic shopping
experience for the modern woman.
warmer colour and contrasts
– We felt there was a need for a
change, something drastic to renew
ourselves. Just as fashions change
during seasons we want our stores to
follow trends in a flexible way. So we
made a U-turn, the old white and clean
interior were replaced with a completely
new personalised concept of warmer
colours and contrasts, says Anne Gro
Fjeldheim, Creative Director and Buying
Manager at Vivikes, that is a part of the
Norwegian Varner Group.
Vivikes is one of Norway’s leading
finding identity in harmony and contrasts
fashion chains, focusing on making the
modern woman look fabulous. They
have 67 shops throughout the country
and two of them situated in Oslo
became targets for the new look.
inspirational collaborations
The inspirational process is very
important for the project group at Vivikes
when they develop new concepts. They
contacted Fagerhult's Key Account
Manager Kristian Renström to contribute
with lighting ideas at the early stage of
the project.
– Vivikes is really a partner that values
quality and they see the importance
of lighting. At the beginning we began
with a blank paper and focused on
creating puzzle pieces of identity carriers that we added together to create
the right atmosphere. In Vivikes case it
became all about harmony and cont-
rasts, says Kristian.
Fagerhult and Vivikes worked closely
together over a three month period,
creating and trying ideas together, from
first thoughts to the finished concept.
– We enjoyed working with Fagerhult.
They were a good creative lighting
partner and came with many ideas and
functioned as a good sparring partner
during the process, says Anne Gro.
light gives the atmosphere
The two stores in Oslo are now furnished with a warmer interior, copper elements, big crystal crowns, LED-lines, and
a lot of personalised interior, like photo
frames, neon signs and a special made V
that attracts the visitors from outside.
Fagerhult usually approaches a
project in two parts; the important
functional lighting, such as contrasts
and adequate general lighting.
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"The lighting played
an important role
when creating the
atmosphere."
Anne Gro Fjeldheim, Creative Director
and Buying Manager at Vivikes.
Anne Gro Fjeldheim.
x
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Sketches from the creative process.
"A special LED-framed
cage was placed in the
middle of the store to define
the shapes of the interior."
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And the identity, how lighting can
enhance the brand’s character.
– Vivikes new concept became a great
combination of both, says Kristian.
– We are really pleased with the
result, especially the lighting that
plays an important role in creating the
atmosphere. The stores have a warmer
cosier feel but with the accent light you
really get adequate illumination over
the clothes. It became very successful.
The atmosphere encourages you to stay
and walk around in the store, says Anne
Gro.
The accent light was provided by a
track mounted Marathon spotlight
equipped with LED. Supplied in a black
finish, its discrete design blended seamlessly into the black ceiling taking away
none of the focus from the interior.
An equally subtle integrated light
solution, Diva II, was used to give dimension to the shelves, illuminating the
clothing underneath and adding depth
to the store by lighting up the walls.
The light agency and lighting department team at Fagerhult also created a
special LED-framed cage placed in the
middle of the store to define the shapes
of the interior.
The final result at Vivikes in Strömmen.
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Vivikes in Sandvika.
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"The contrast is
created by the
mix of integrated
discrete lighting and
really eye catching
solutions."
Kristian Renström,
Key Account Manager at Fagerhult
The all-important dressing rooms also
got a special made solution where a
tiny little LED strip with good CRI was
integrated behind the mirrors to create
a smooth ambient vertical light on the
observer.
– These are the features that make
the difference. The contrast is created by
the mix of integrated discrete lighting
and really eye catching solutions with
a design element that enhance the
interior. We used the spotlights to create
interest and curiosity around the store,
says Kristian.
Dressing rooms in Strömmen with discrete LED stripes behind the mirrors.
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Crystal chandelier ad pieces of jewellery at the store in Sandvika.
pieces of jewellery
One of the most central element in the
store is the crystal chandelier that adds
a distinct touch of glamour as a centrepiece of jewellery.
– These features add identity. Vivikes
want to be flexible and add personality
to each store and by adding just a few
features you can create the personality
and still find a cohesive brand, Kristian says.
Some of the characteristic pieces
will now be brought into Vivikes next
project.
– Our new concept resulted a great
change and at the same time it was very
cost effective. We are now heading for
the next project and will continue to
think further, looking for inspiration and
finding exciting solutions in the future,
Anne Gro concludes.
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"By adding just a few
features to each store
you can create the
personality and still find a
cohesive brand."
Kristian Renström, Key Account Manager, Fagerhult.
The illuminated V creates interest from the entrance.
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alfred dunhill – alpha male address
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"The idea was to have a home of the brand
so the shop feels domestic in character as
seen by the very fact that it is a door off a
courtyard and not shop front."
David Murdoch, Architect.
Alpha male address
Since 1893, Alfred Dunhill has been committed to "advancing the pursuit of male
indulgence". Bourdon House, the first of its Homes in London, Hong Kong, Shanghai
and Tokyo, embodies the brand’s mix of masculine style and innovation.
text fran pearce | images alfred dunhill
there are very few brands that succeed
in being both exclusive and inclusive but
since 1907, when it opened its first store
in St James’s, the aristocratic corner
of London affectionately nicknamed
"clubland", Alfred Dunhill has achieved
precisely that, by supplying ingeniously
conceived and fashioned accoutrements
to the grown-up, well-heeled and
worldly male. It combines a sure-footed
masculinity with refinement and
innovation, all yours for the price of a
beautifully cut sports coat or a handrolled cigar purveyed in an atmosphere
of calm and competence, dark wood
and deep polish – the very essence of
the gentlemen’s club.
Alfred Dunhill, the man, was 21 when
he took over the family harness and
saddlery business in 1893, two years
before George Lanchester built the first
British car. As the new age of motoring
began, he launched Dunhill’s Motorities
offering "everything for the car, but the
motor" even including a pipe that could
be smoked in an open-topped vehicle. The gloves-to-gadgets emporium soon moved into other areas of
contemporary maledom, from fishing
rods, cricket kit and golfing gear, before
moving into "Avorities" – accessories
and outfits for the new "aeroplanist".
In an age of technological progress
and curiosity, Dunhill was a crafty
eccentric, in the best sense of both
terms. In 1908 he set up his own patent
development company and is credited
with the adjustable passenger mirror
among other inventions. In 1922, for
example, Alfred applied for a patent on
an interior light for bags – legend has
it – to enable his wife to apply lipstick
with ease during the ballet.
Its male-orientation nothwithstanding – and unlike many of the
hide-bound institutions of his own
era – Dunhill’s emporium was never for
men only. Today, Alfred Dunhill Limited
has more than 180 stores and over 3500
wholesale points of sale around the
world, and is part of Richemont, one of
the world’s leading luxury goods groups,
whose other brands include Cartier,
Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget, Vacheron
Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC and
Montblanc.
a hybrid concept
The core values of the brand – masculinity, luxury, functionality and innovation – are reflected in the most recent
development of the brand: The Homes
of Alfred Dunhill, a hybrid store-cumclub concept representing the "third
dimension of luxury", the experience,
and embodying the heritage of Alfred
Dunhill himself.
The company calls the Homes its
most ambitious and exciting project to
date. There are four, in London, Hong
Kong, Shanghai and Tokyo. They are
intended to provide the pinnacle of
Dunhill service in a distinctively superior
retail environment distinguished by
services that include bespoke tailoring,
barber’s shops, fine wine cellars, bars
and restaurants, screening rooms and
spas.
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First among equals is Bourdon House,
formerly the London residence of the
Duke of Westminster, a Grade II-listed
Georgian building, in the heart of
London’s Mayfair. In Hong Kong, the
Home is spread over the floors of the
prestigious Landmark Prince's Building
built in 1897 and once home to the
Hong Kong Club.
The Alfred Dunhill Shanghai Home
in Luwan District, is in a magnificent,
perfectly restored, 1920s, neoclassicalstyle villa in the former French concession, surrounded by a beautiful English
garden.
By contrast, Dunhill’s Tokyo Home
on Ginza Chuo Street in the heart of
the city, is distinctly modern but is still
equipped with an elegant lounge area
overlooking the street and a traditional
barbers.
elegant georgian character
For obvious reasons, Bourdon House
is the most "British" of the homes. It
was built in 1723 and is a fine illustration of Georgian architecture, which is
characterised by proportion and balance
and widely held as the epitome of good
taste: elegant, much copied but seldom
surpassed. The Duke of Westminster
used it as his townhouse from 1917
to 1957. Over time it was altered and
extended but since its acquisition by
Alfred Dunhill it has undergone painstaking restoration under the direction of
architect Aukett Swanke.
Specialised craftsmen worked carefully to restore its character and charm.
The carved cornices, wood panelling
and reinstated antiques are redolent
of its past with noble materials from
marble and mahogany to mosaic floors
and hand-painted wallpaper sharing a
home with high-tech sounds systems
and cinema.
Aukett Swanke also replaced a
modern extension with a single-storey,
"contemporary glass dining room delicately slotted into the courtyard; "a jewel"
situated within a distinguished historic
setting". Style and craft shot through
with innovation might equally describe
Bourdon House’s refurbishment, the
Dunhill brand or the man himself.
Alfred Dunhill in London.
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– The idea was to have a home of the
brand so the shop feels domestic in character as seen by the very fact that it is a
door off a courtyard and not shop front,
says architect David Murdoch.
– Having an exclusive club next to
it enhances the brand and this has
carried over well to the Far East. There
is a synergy that I think has been very
successful, he continues.
Alfred Dunhill in Shanghai.
evokes the exclusive
In a suitably understated way, the
emporium at Bourdon House is reached
via an outdoor terrace and through a
stone arch with a simple sign above. The
retail aspect, which is open to the public
covers three floors. The ground floor is
home to the Dunhill emporium offering
the most recent collection of menswear,
leather, accessories, gifts, gadgets and
gizmos.
The second floor reflects Dunhill’s
approach to personalisation, luxury and
exclusivity with rooms for bespoke tailoring and custom menswear and leather.
In addition to a spa with two treatment
rooms and a traditional gentleman’s
barber, this floor also houses an elegant
museum displaying pieces from the
brand’s archives and vintage leather
items. The basement, meanwhile,
accommodates a subterranean private
cinema, a lounge area serving food and
drinks and a cellar bar.
The remainder of the building is
dedicated to an invitation-only members’ club with lavish bedroom suites
and a dining room, whose atmosphere
and privacy are so sacrosanct that no
pictures or details of it are made public.
Though not an all-male preserve,
Bourdon House evokes the exclusive
and inclusive, the pursuit of masculine
indulgence and Alfred Dunhill’s own
legacy summed up in his motto: "It is
not enough to expect a man to pay for
the best, you must also give him what
he has paid for."
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up close and personal
31
Up close and
personal
Once associated with wealth and privilege, personal
shopping is now very much in the mainstream with a
range of brands and department stores offering it as
a free-of-charge value added service.
text fran pearce | photo burberry, estimote, images courtesy: selfridges
the latest evolution of the concept
is pushing things one step further,
bringing together the on- and offline
worlds to create the ultimate personal
shopping experience.
connected consumer
The real world, human contact involved
in personal shopping is a big part of
its appeal but personalisation is also
a growing feature of online shopping.
Whether the real world and online
experience compete or complement
one another is open for debate but
e-commerce consultancy Amaze
predicts that retailers who emerge out
of the changing landscape will do so
through using a mix of the online and
offline experiences for the consumer
– making shopping more convenient
and easier, whether online, in-store
or through mobile applications. Chief
strategy officer Rick Curtis said:
– The wave of digital and technological innovation that is sweeping across
the high street is creating a shopping
environment with the connected consumer at its heart. For those brands that
want to keep ahead of the curve and
build a seamless customer experience,
the very real benefits of "connected
retail" are now here for the taking.
cross-selling
The omnichannel concept – selling
across multiple channels and devices,
often to the very same customers –
has taken a particularly strong hold in
Europe and the USA according to a 2013
retail forecast by professional services
company PwC.
In recent years, real world retailers
have suffered at the hands – or should
that be digits? – of e-commerce as
a result of the practice known as
"showrooming", where customers
touch and try products in-store but buy
on-line. However, by paying heed to
advice to make the best of both worlds
retailers can also take advantage of the
reverse trend known as webrooming:
researching on the web but buying
in-store and it is growing among a very
important demographic group.
generation z
Shoppers currently aged 14–19 , the
so-called Generation Z, will eventually
make up about 40 per cent of consumers in the USA, Europe and the BRIC
countries. Their typical shopping patterns involve researching fashions on
the web, creating a digital scrapbook
and online price-checking but they also
treat store visits as group excursions.
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32
Hence a flurry of predictions by retail
and e-commerce analysts at the start of
2014 centred on trends whose common
theme was the need to provide a more
personal shopping experience, whether
on the high street or online.
technology "democratise"
Digital technology has the potential to
provide retailers with new insights that
will enable them to tailor the "bricks
and mortar" shopping experience to
the individual shopper’s needs and
preferences and, in essence, to "democratise" personal shopping, delivering
personalised products and interactions
through a process that has been dubbed "me-tailing". For example, social
curation communities such as Pinterest
where "pre-customers" post galleries of
their favourite fashion items not only
provide pre-purchase inspiration for
other buyers but also highlight trends in
customer tastes, providing retailers with
a level of information impossible with
traditional market research and directly
affecting stock-buying.
In the "multichannel" world, shops
are often selling across a variety of technology platforms to the same people
and using every means at their disposal
to "get close to the customer". As an
example of the cross-over between the
digital and the "real", menswear retailer
Topman offers a personal shopping service provided on the premises by human
advisors, supplemented by fortnightly
trend talks on Facebook to answer
customers’ style questions.
Burberry piles on the "retailment" at
its flagship store on Regent Street with
acoustic events featuring band such
as The Kaiser Chiefs, and a "digitallyenriched" shopping environment that
includes mirrors that turn instantly
to screens displaying product-specific
content.
33
Burberry's flagship store on Regent Street, with acoustic
events featuring band such as The Kaiser Chiefs.
x
34
Selfrige's lounge area.
Estimote produces personalised micro-location based notifications for retail stores.
"A further trend forecast for the near
future is the emergence of the "likeable
expert", a member of the in-store whose
job is not to sell but to offer advice, solve
problems and build relationships."
35
The "likeable expert".
hypertargeting
Hypertargeting is another online
technique that has moved in-store, in
part spurred by the arrival in 2013 of
Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) devices such
as Apple’s iBeacon, an indoor tracking
device built into its operating systems
and devices that communicates with
customers’ smartphones. The idea is
that the shop’s system registers when
specific customers arrive and reminds
them of their shopping lists, or previous
purchases, as they reach the appropriate
part of the store.
Geofencing, a mobile-phone technology used to alert parents when children
wander off or a car goes missing, is also
being used to tell stores when individual
customers are close and send them
intelligently targeted texts relating to
in-store promotions. These systems also
tell staff to bring goods ordered on the
Internet to the counter ready for collec-
tion, thus cutting queues.
There are privacy concerns with
hypertargeting technology but alternatives exist. For example House of Fraser
has a less intrusive virtual queuing
system for "click and collect customers"
who use in-store terminals to notify the
store that they have arrived. Customers
receive a text when their order is ready.
upcoming arrivals
This year will see the arrival and (hopefully) swift and satisfied departure of
the click and collect customer at many
more locations. In the UK, initiatives
include a drive-through collection
service at Selfridge’s claimed to take as
little as three minutes; supermarket
click and collect branches at London
Underground stations and the launch
of the Streethub, a service designed to
help shoppers reserve goods – mainly
fashion and homeware – at local,
independent stores using their mobiles
or laptops.
A further trend forecast for the near
future is the emergence of the ‘likeable
expert’, a member of the in-store whose
job is not to sell but to offer advice, solve
problems and build relationships: in
effect, a personal shopping assistant on
demand, for every customer, "connected" or otherwise.
The most recent Best Retail Brands
report from the analyst Interbrand
points out that “companies in search
of growth can take their cue from consumer expectations; bring the online
shopping experience into the bricks and
mortar store and bring personal service
back. Studies continue to show that
the brands which invest in trained and
motivated store associates comman
higher margins and greater loyalty."
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36
stuart weitzman – seamless magnificence
37
Seamless
magnificence
Stuart Weitzman has opened its innovative 3000 square
foot, flagship store in Via Sant´Andrea, one of the most
recognisable shopping streets in Milan. The boutique
is the hundredth Stuart Weitzman store globally and is
designed by the renowned architect Zaha Hadid, who has
created a remarkable fluid and playful design of seamless
magnificence.
text elin nilsson | photo zaha hadid architects
x
38
39
at the forefront of style and design,
the Stuart Weitzman brand is encapsulated by the fluid shapes and integrated
lighting within their Milan store. An
ideal blend of function and ergonomics,
the space is defined by an innovative
experimentation with materials and
construction techniques. The displays
and seating are created by fiberglass in
rose gold, using a technique similar to
those used in boat manufacturing. The fluid landscape creates curiosity
together with the freestanding modules
that function as both seating and as a
way to showcase the shoes.
– The design is divided into invariant
and adaptive elements to establish unique relationships within each worldwi-
de location; yet also enable every store
to be recognized as a Stuart Weitzman
space, explains Zaha Hadid.
The co-creation between Zaha Hadid
Architects and Stuart Weitzman is a
step towards making the brand entering
recognition worldwide and additional
flagship stores are now planned for
Hong Kong, Rome and New York.
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40
volt – two in one
41
Two in One
Volt is different than other concepts since they have decided to split up their shops in two distinctive parts. One
part is called Magazine and it displays more suits and
shirts. The other part is called Library where more relaxed
outfits are presented.
text camilla hult
volt – two in one
x
42
volt – two in one
43
the volt brand target fashion conscious young men who are confident
in their style and know what kind of
clothing they want. The stores want to
inspire and offer clothing and footwear
for both casual and dressy occasions.
Library should bring to mind an antique English library with an old-fashioned design – the feeling of quality. The
lighting solution is a mix of mediumbeam and narrow-beam spotlights
with a strong focus on pendants and
decorative lighting. Authentic materials
in chandeliers and table lamps in brass
and green glass contribute to the correct genuine feeling.
– We have worked hard to develop
many different fixtures that create
ambience to highlight the fine furnishings and decor, Erik Torstensson Lighting Designer at Fagerhult explains.
The Magazine part is more modern.
This solution is dark and luxurious with
sharp contrasts and the decorative
lighting is more austere in its design.
Both solutions have a dynamic lighting
and when walking from one part to the
other the change in the lighting solution
should just be a smooth transition, and
not two totally different experiences.
volt – two in one
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44
colourful opportunities
45
Colourful
opportunities
We all need light to see, to perceive the interior and feel the atmosphere. When LED
entered the retail lighting industry it gave lighting designers a great tool of new
colour spectrums with dynamic light. Any environment comes to life when playing
with colour and contrasts – and it makes you the artist!
text elin nilsson
dynamic light
Using a palette of colours makes the
lighting an attraction itself. Colour
filters are on their way out, replaced
with LED luminaires equipped with the
ability to shift the light colour without
the need for extra lamps, filters and
fixtures.
By mixing light in a variety of colour
temperatures and contrasts the
possibilities are endless. Rather than
embarking on a big renovation project
with brushes and paint, dynamic light
allows you to change the environment
and define the architectural structure by
altering the colour of the light instead,
transforming the appearance of steps,
ceilings or a white wall.
With an extra touch of the same
colour of light you can also enhance
the existing colours within the interior.
Or why not replace the traditional
white with saturated coloured light to
enhance the store.
Blue light is truly an accent colour,
often used by ambulances and police
cars to navigate through traffic, but it
is also a regular feature on the stage,
illuminating theatre and concerts.
– Blue is one of my favourite colours.
It is very common to use blue as a
background colour on stage as it creates
a great contrast when you put warmer
colours on the actors and musicians
faces. I think it would be interesting to
apply this in retail, something happens
when you mix cold and warm light, and
you can use it when presenting items
on a shelf or illuminating a wall, says
Anders Strömberg, Concept Development Manager at Fagerhult.
This spring you can look out for the
new tuneable white Marathon spotlight; “Marathon Dynamic”. With this
fixture you can tune in any white colour
from 2700 K to 6500 K but also control
more saturated colours such as red,
blue, yellow and purple.
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46
researching dynamic light
Based on the thoughts and ideas of
adaptive lighting Fagerhult is involved in
a lighting study with the Finnish hypermarket Anttila in Uleåborg. Investigating three different lighting scenarios,
the goal of the study is to increase
knowledge in how dynamic lighting can
attract customers, draw attention to
certain products and impact on customer navigation through the store.
tuneable white
Tuneable white allows you to change
the colour temperature of white light
with one luminaire and one light source.
But why is this a good thing? Within
retail this actually offers many possibilities to enhance different types of
merchandise.
For example, it is a great way to show
what clothing looks like during the different hours of the day in a dressing room.
You can also let the colour temperature
in a shop window mirror that of the
sun’s as it evolves throughout the day.
Or why not create contrasts and do the
opposite, have a warm colour when it
is colder light outside and vice versa. By
shifting light contrasts no environment
gets boring.
Flexibility with colour temperature is
also a good advantage when illuminating food at supermarkets and grocery
stores. Fagerhult’s latest additions for
those applications are the spotlights
Marathon Rich and Marathon Glow.
They are especially developed to illuminate and enhance different groceries.
Read more about them on page 50–51.
47
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48
Zone Evo
Tools for creation
The language of points, lines, angles and curves composes the basics of geometrics. When illuminating a retail area there is a wide variety of options for
the lighting; do you want it to be strictly discrete or breathtaking? To make
it easier to identify which tools to use for creation, Fagerhult have developed
their latest spotlights based on these basic geometric shapes.
text elin nilsson
a spotlight characterised by a clean
and conical shaped housing and
equipped purely with LED is the latest
evolution to the retail range. Zone Evo
comes in three different sizes and
mounting options, and the segmented
MIRO reflector technology makes it
extremely efficient with excellent visual
performance. Another geometric expression, the
tools for creation
square, is represented in Sync, a spotlight that distinctly contrasts with the
others due to its angular design.
Available in three different sizes
Marathon’s cylindrical shape and clean
design makes it a spotlight ideal for any
setting. The new additions Marathon
Rich and Marathon Glow are furnished
with carefully chosen LED modules,
making them a perfect choice when
illuminating and enhancing the colours
of different groceries.
– These three options, a cone, a
square and a cylindrical flair, enable
you to select a shape associated with
the shape of your project, says Mathias
Oskarsson, Product and Application
Manager at Fagerhult.
49
Sync
Marathon
"Cone, square and
cylindrical flair. Select
shape from a wide palette
of products."
Mathias Oskarsson,
Product and Application Manager
at Fagerhult.
tools for creation
x
50
marathon rich and glow
51
Marathon Rich and Glow
Enhancing colours
Fagerhult’s new additions of spotlights, Marathon Rich and Marathon Glow are
equipped with tailor-made LED modules which makes them a perfect choice when
illuminating and enhancing colours of different groceries or fashion items.
text camilla hult
marathon rich and glow were initially
developed for the food market where
there historically has been a need for a
light source that could render colour in a
way that would make the groceries look
tasteful. But it has been proved that
both Rich and Glow are suitable also for
other areas within retail.
With a special developed LED module
you will get quality light with low energy usage compared to the old coloured
lamps and filters. It is also important
to remember that any colour you want
to enhance in the displayed food needs
to be one of the colours that the light
source can render in a good way. marathon midi led rich
This version is tailor-made and tested
for the fish and meat sections in the
store. The spectral qualities of the LED
module enhance both warm red tones
but also cool tones. This functions for
both red fish and seafood, such as salmon and shrimps, but also ice and silver
skinned fish types.
Marathon Rich has a great colour
rendering in blue and red colours so it
will be successful where you would like
to enhance these colours.
and cheese it is possible to combine
spotlights with general light, making
it suitable to illuminate groceries that
radiate similar colours.
In dressing rooms there are often
a wish to have a warm tone to reflect
what the skin would look like in sunshine. Marathon Glow will also make tree
furniture look good with a nice finish.
marathon midi led glow
This version is tailor-made for the fruit/
vegetable and bread/cheese section and
is equipped with a LED module that is
specifically selected and tested for illuminating such foods. The LED module is
strong in the warm coloured spectrum
and brings out the warm red tones in
the groceries. When accenting bread
marathon rich and glow
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52
Dressing up
your brand
The physical shop is the perfect brand-carrying
platform for retailers. Glamorously stylish, considerately
enchanting or daringly edgy – there are unlimited
possibilities.
text camilla hult photo cecilia selvén
fagerhult's department The Light
Agency offer customers guidance and
advice on how their lighting solution
can compliment or enhance their
brand’s personality. Both the lighting
design and the idiom and features of
the fixture contribute to the communication of a retailer’s brand values.
Whether you have a clear sense of
direction or a general impression,
Fagerhult offers the ability to transform
the feeling you want your customers
to experience through the lighting
solution.
A broad range of products, coupled
with the possibility to make special
adaptations (Fagerhult O.D.DTM) offers
the fagerhult light agency™
the best possible tools for an optimised
solution.
After ideas are generated together
with the customer, a complete lighting
solution with suitable products, light
sources and colour temperatures are
presented. Life Cycle Costs that compares the new lighting installation to the
old one can be presented. By doing this,
a pay-off time can be calculated and
also how much maintenance cost and
energy consumption will decrease over
time.
Each brand has its own personality
and Fagerhult makes an effort of getting to know the brand values and the
characteristics of it.
53
the fagerhult light agency™
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54
Seeing beauty
in the odd
It is not always a bad thing to be the odd one out. Actually, why
be like everyone else when you can be something that stands
out? Fagerhult believes it is important to be able to show your
brand’s true personality. That is why we offer Fagerhult O.D.DTM
– Fagerhult On Demand Design. A collaboration to invent a
concept luminaire according your wishes.
text elin nilsson | photo cecilia selvén
fagerhult o.d.dTM
55
fagerhult o.d.dTM
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56
The clothing company Cubus wanted a special solution
of a lighting fixture for their new jeans assortment.
Fagerhult created a box of metal, and an outside
of canvas fabric with a magnet function, so that
the messages on the front could be changed. Cubus
wanted a visible fluorescent lamp with blue light
and the metal chain holding it up contributes to the
industrial feeling.
This red luminaire dot in the ceiling was created
together with the clothing company Dressmann to
add a piece of identity and signage to their store
ceilings.
any product ideas and concepts which
are ideal for specific customers or
venues but are not within the existing
range are handled by the Fagerhult
O.D.D M department. The team consists
of colleagues from across the Fagerhult
Group in China, Belgium and Sweden
– all with different expertise but with
the same passion to find the optimal
solution.
Lars Gärdebäck, Technical Application
Manager and Johan Lemaitre, Concep-
fagerhult o.d.dTM
tual Product Design Manager, both work
with solving customer specific products.
Lars Gärdebäck is a former electrician,
lighting designer and even a teacher in
Lighting Design at Jönköping University.
His expertise in the technical and electronic issues is complemented by Johan
Lemaitre who has studied design and
has extensive experience of luminaire
product design.
– Some clients have a great knowledge of light and the technical facts, while
some need guidance toward an even
better, optimised product or solution
than the one they initially had in mind.
We can assist in either of these two
scenarios, Johan explains.
Retail chains want to stand out; they
do not want to have the exact same
luminaires as the competitor next to
them at the high street. Luminaire
design is not only about vision today, it
is about branding.
57
The dressing room is the place where many purchase
decisions are made. And it also offers a unique
opportunity to stand out and make a difference.
This solution is inspired by the make up room mirror,
connecting it to the feeling of preparing for a true
stage entrance.
"Luminaire design is not
only about vision today, it is
about branding."
fagerhult o.d.dTM
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58
An O.D.D collaboration
La Halle – a total
image make-over
La Halle is one of the brands of the French Vivarte group, which also have
brands like Naf Naf and Kookai within its portfolio. Traditionally La Halle was
associated with budget shopping but now they wanted to raise their image.
text camilla hult
to transform their profile from budget
outlet to a trendier alternative for
women required a significant change. A
more fashionable product collection had
to be complemented by a new visual
image and interior to both complement
and signify their re-positioning.
Their existing interior and lighting
was similar to those used with a
1000 m2 supermarket, lit predominately
by general lighting which created a
bright yet flat space. The new, revamped
interior is made from wood to create a
trendier and more enjoyable feeling.
In the middle of shop there is a
lounge area with large armchairs for the
visitors to relax. One of the main focal
points is a specially created “bag bar”
where a wide assortment of bags are
la halle – a total image make-over
showcased for customers to explore and
experiment with different styles. A night
sky full of stars was replicated within
their event space, using a mixture of
different coloured small LEDs spread
across the ceiling which, like the walls, is
painted black.
cooler lighting
Their vision for lighting of the new
concept focused on providing a cooler
light on the ceiling and walls; contrasting spotlights with T5 tubes in a colour
temperature of 4000 kelvin. In the dressing room the light is warmer to create a
more comfortable and homely feel.
To realise the lit effect, La Halle
wanted a luminaire that was discrete
and sophisticated but they couldn’t find
the exact match within the Fagerhult
standard range. Working in close collaboration, La Halle and Fagerhult's O.D.D
department adapted the Crossroad
spotlight in LED to their exact requirements for accent lighting, with the
general provided via a custom solution
called Bridge.
Fagerhult O.D.DTM (On Demand
Design) is a service which offers retailers
a custom-made product tailored to
their design preference or to address a
specific need. La Halle appreciated this
flexibility to create a non-mainstream
solution that was both personal to them
yet equally discrete.
59
la halle – a total image make-over
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60
the brand theatre coming alive
61
The Brand
Theatre
coming
alive
The small town of Bollebygd in Sweden is
where Fagerhult's retail heart is situated.
There has always been a passion to inspire
customers here and a strong tradition in
educating both staff and visitors. The showroom has been updated continuously and
a large number of visitors have entered the
bright and spacious building to get a journey
through the world of lighting.
text camilla hult | photo cecilia selvén | illustrations industriromantik
x
62
63
there is not only a great knowledge
within lighting here. Fagerhult has
always held great pride in the process
of creating a lighting solution that
matches the customer’s brand and
appeals to its target group. This was
something Fagerhult had to get across
to their customers why The Brand
Theatre Experience was created. The
Brand Theatre Experience is Fagerhult's
book where two fictional brands are
described focusing on an analysis of
the brand, what trends to consider and
examples of how they create a concept.
A fashion shop was created with 3D
imagery and it was named Twenty Once
Denim. At the same time the showroom
needed something new and fresh and
the 3D renderings and ideas for the
showroom became a parallel process.
In September 2013 Twenty Once
Denim became a real and very important part of the Fagerhult showroom.
– It gives us wonderful opportunities
to display and demonstrate different
feelings and moods of lighting, but
most of all it is a great way to play with
lighting, says Anders Strömberg, Concept Development Manager at Fagerhult.
All the lighting is controllable with
iTrack and LED spotlights. Pre-set scenes
make the light wonder around the shop
display emphasising different items.
– This is something that has proven to
be something very positive among our
visitors. People tend to stay longer and
find it more interesting when the light is
moving around.
It is possible to control the light with
sensors illuminating a path for the
customer and also to experiment with
different light levels, colours, accents
and general lighting and colour temperatures.
– For us the most valuable thing is to
be able to sit in our shop, talk to the customer and together try out what kind of
lighting they prefer in very easy way. We
can get a feeling for what our customers
like and the process of coming to a great
result is much easier, Anders continues.
Visitors at the Fagerhult premises are
very varying. Customers from all over
the world come to see the premises.
From architects, designers, lighting
designers to retailers and installers.
There is also a large interest from
students to come and increase their
knowledge about light. Art-schools,
lighting educations and visual merchandisers frequently visit Bollebygd and
leave with more knowledge about how
light effect us, motivated to learn even
more. A constant development of the
showroom is a necessity and makes it
interesting for customers to come back
for more inspiration.
Anders Strömberg,
See the realisation of Twenty
Ounce Denim on the next page.
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64
Ideas...
Rendering of the social area and
dressing room in the shop.
The wall area.
65
A variety of ways to illuminate a retail wall is showcased at the new showroom.
...come
to life.
The social area in the store becomes a place for creative meetings.
x
66
Come visit!
Collect new ideas and knowledge in a unique light experience center.
Welcome to our showroom in Bollebygd, Sweden.
Go to fagerhult.com to find out how to book a visit.
visit showroom
get a preview
retail main office: Fagerhult Retail AB, Rinnavägen 12, SE 517 33, Bollebygd, Sweden, Phone: +46 33 722 15 00, www.fagerhult.com/retail
www.fagerhult.com

— 5.2MB

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