Newsletter - Emirates Classic Car Club

ECCC
Newsletter
OCT. 2014
volume 1/ issue 5
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Newsletter
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C3 CORVETTE
CLASSIC CAR PRICES SOAR
FIAT 500
HOW TO STORE YOUR CLASSIC
CAR
CURING DEADLY VACUUM
LEAKS
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C3 Corvette
B y t h e en d o f t h e 1 9 6 8
Corvette model year, it became clear
that the public was astonished with
America’s only sports car. While
sales increased by a whopping 25
percent, all was not well with the new
design. An enormous number of quality
issues plagued the first-year C3. On the
plus side, customers loved the
coke-bottle design and neck-snapping
performance but the quality problems
sent an overwhelming number of
vehicles back to the dealership.
Chevrolet put in place a detailed plan
to improve correct many of the issues
for 1969. The new Corvette, while not
perfect, was definitely a better automobile
in its second year.
Several key changes were made to
distinguish it from the 1968 model.
The Stingray name became one word.
The Stingray emblem was placed above
the air vents on the front fenders.
Backup lights were moved from below
the rear bumper and integrated into
the inner taillamp. Outside door
handles were redesigned, eliminating
the need for the additional push button
used in the previous year. Chrome-plated
front grille bars were replaced with
black painted bars. The front fender
vents now included a chrome edge
surrounding them.
lock was moved from the dash panel to the
steering column, and for the first time
included a steering column lock. Door panels
were redesigned to increase much-needed
shoulder room. The steering wheel diameter
was reduced to 15 inches, making it slightly
easier to enter and exit the vehicle. The
passenger side of the dash provided pockets
for maps and other items. Another improvement was the use of an inertia locking seat
belt system that allowed the occupant to
move forward without the seat belt locking
in place.
history. Replacing it was Chevrolet’s 350
cubic-inch small-block. Horsepower in the
327 was advertised at 300, but it actually
produced more. Next up in the small-block
option list was the 350 cubic-inch,
350-horsepower V-8.
Inside, the Corvette received subtle
yet important changes. The ignition
A plethora of power trains was available. The
327 cubic-inch engine, used since 1962, was
For added punch, buyers could drop a
Tri-power setup on top of it, upping
horsepower to 400. And those wanting
pavement-melting performance could
order the RPO L71, solid lifter, high
compression, 435-horsepower big-block.
An optional aluminum head (L89) big-block
was also available.
For those who wanted more, a slew of 427
big-blocks were available. First on the
option list was the single four-barrel,
390-horse version. It was considered the
docile power train of big-blocks, using a
mild cam and low compression.
Racing fans that wanted more had two
additional choices, the L-88 and ZL1. With
its ultra-high-lift camshaft and a 12:1
compression ratio, the L-88 was not a
power train to be driven on the street.
While Chevrolet listed the horsepower at
430, in truth it was believed to have over
500 horsepower. But Chevrolet wasn’t
finished providing lightning-fast
performance for Corvette fans.
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The all-aluminum ZL1 engine was last on
the option list. Light in weight and high in
power, this combination was king of the road.
This engine was also rated at 430 horsepower
but produced much more. However, only
two ZL1 Corvettes were built and today
command an incredible price on the collector
car market.
By the end of the model year and in spite
of a strike that stopped production for
almost two months, Corvette once again
increased sales from the previous year.
Today, the second-year C3 Corvette stands
out as one of the most sought-after sports
cars. The combination of improved quality,
great performance, and continued appreciation
makes it an outstanding investment.
Classic Car Prices Soar
'E-Type Jaguars have tripled in price in three years': Classic cars
are soaring in value - we reveal five with the biggest rises.
Prime E-Type Jaguars have become
unaffordable for many classic car
buyers.
Classic cars are becoming more
popular as investors shun volatile
gold.
Sought after classic cars have soared
in value in recent years according to a
specialist underwriter, with motors from the
1950 and 60s having the most uplift.
Alongside classic cars, there has also been
strong growth in fine art as people move
away from volatile gold.
We are seeing very high prices achieved at
classic car auctions for exclusive marquees
such as Ferrari and Aston Martin, especially
cars from the 1950s with racing provenance
and in exceptional original or restored
condition.
'E-Type Jaguars, which have always held their
price well even during the recession are now
becoming almost unaffordable for many
buyers.
Former glory: The Jaguar E-Type is one of the finest cars to come from Britain
Prices have risen from 187,000 AED-250,000
AED a few years ago soar to the 750,000
AED mark for prime mid-1960s examples.
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While fine art, classic cars, vintage wine and precious stones have all broadly
enjoyed rising values in the past 12 months, gold has not fared so well.
Back in May 201vv3, it was trading at around 5200 AED per ounce, but today’s
price is now 4700 AED. At its highest point in August 2011, prices reached 7200
AED. As a result, people are turning to alternatives.
Here are five classic cars that have grown in value the
most in recent years and top end examples will be the
those in the best condition.
Jaguar E-Type
Price now: 750,000 AED
Price 2011: 250,000 AED
One of the most iconic and sought after
British cars to ever, the E-Type frequently
tops polls as most beautiful motors of all
time. Assembled in Coventry between
1961 and 1975, as with all of the cars in
this list, the better condition and older
the vehicle, the higher the price.
3,400 E-Types are currently licensed on
British roads – slightly higher than the
figure ten years ago, while nearly 1,000
have a SORN, meaning they are off the
road.
Aston Martin DB5
Sport Saloon
Price now: 2,000,000 AED
Price 2011: 873,000 AED
The DB5 will always be associated with
a number of James Bond films, including
Sean Connery in Gold finger in the 1960s
all the way to the most recent spy flick,
Skyfall, starring Daniel Craig.
There are 276 licensed on British roads – a
figure that has remained pretty static in the
last ten years, while 45 have a SORN.
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Bentley S2 Continental
Flying Spur
Price now: 440,000 AED
Price 2011: 275,000 AED
The Bentley S2 was made between
1959 until 1962. The above example was
part of an auction from singer Elton
John, who had it since the 1970s - it sold
for £67,500 in 2001.
Plymouth Hemi Cuda
Price now: 13,000,000 AED
Price 2011: 10,000,000 AED
The Plymouth Barracuda is a
two-door car that was manufactured by
the Plymouth division of the Chrysler
Corporation from 1964 to 1974. The
first-generation Barracuda, a fastback
A-body coupe based on the Plymouth
Valiant, had distinctive wraparound back
glass and was available from 1964 to 1966.
The second-generation 1967 to 1969
Barracuda, though still Valiant-based, was
heavily redesigned. Second-generation
A-body cars were available in fastback,
notchback, and convertible versions. The
1970 to 1974 E-body Barracuda, no longer
Valiant-based, was available as a coupe and
a convertible, both of which were very
different from the previous models. The final
model year for the Barracuda was 1974.
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Austin-Healey 3000 Mk
III Phase II Convertible
Price now: 250,000 AED
Price 2011: 140,000 AED
These quirky little two-seater cars were
built in Abingdon in the mid-1960s - the
third generation Austin-Healy 3000 has
gained the most value and statistics show
just over 17,000 were built.
This motor has won the heart of many a
motor enthusiast and as a result, good
examples have become highly sought
after.
Classic Car Tips
Don’t forget if you are looking to buy a classic car, give it all the checks you
would if you were buying a ‘standard’ car. This includes:
- Looking at all paperwork and documentation.
- Taking it for a road test to check for any faults, especially in the engine.
- Checking essentials such as lights, tires and suspension is up to scratch.
- Importantly for a classic car is looking for signs of rust and other wear and
tear around the bodywork.
- Investigating how much insurance would be for the car, to make sure you
are not quoted sky-high prices which would make the motor uneconomical
for you to drive.
Beyond that you ideally want to seek the advice of owners' clubs and get a specialist to look
round the car for you, especially if it is a very expensive one.
Fiat 500
The 1960 Fiat 500 was available
as a sedan, sport sedan, Bianchina coupe,
and a Jolly sedan. Pricing ranged from
$1,100 - $1760. The parking lights were
now positioned under the headlamps.
Power was from a two-cylinder
overhead-valve engine that displaced
479cc and produced 17 horsepower. A
sport version was available, displacing
499cc and offering 21 horsepower. The
engine was mounted in the rear and
powered the back wheels. The wheelbase
measured 72.4 inches.in its second year.
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The Fiat 500 was introduced in 1957 as a
successor to the Topolino model. (Topolino
means 'mouse'). The designer was named
Dante Giacosa, an individual who would
later become an automotive legend for his
contributions to the industry. The 500 was
a two-seater, rear engine, utility car that was
built as an economical means of transportation void of luxury items or sports-car
intentions. It featured a 479cc overhead
valve engine mated to a four speed gearbox.
With 13 horsepower the 500 never set any
land speed records. It had a top speed of 85
km/h.
To help improve the performance of the
500, Carlo Abarth offered bolt-on aftermarket parts and accessories. These additions
helped with increasing the horsepower and
performance of the engine as well as improving
the handling and making the vehicles more
fun to drive and competitive on the streets.
In 1957, the 500 received 2 extra horsepower,
bringing the total to 15. Wind-up windows
were now standard.
From 1958 through 1960, Fiat offered a
Sport version. These Sport versions offered
a 21 horsepower engine, and a one piece
roof. The standard 500 version had a
fold-back sunroof. In 1965, the 500F lost its
suicide doors in favor of the more popular
hinged doors. The horsepower rating was
once again improved and now offered 19. The
top speed was 95 km/h.
From 1969 through 1975, a Lux version was
offered. This featured full carpeting and
plastic revised dashboards. In 1975 production
of the Fiat 500 ceased. 3.6 million examples
had been produced during its life span. In
2004, Fiat created a concept car that was
similar in design and style to the Fiat 500. It
was called the Fiat Trepiuno and featured
front wheel drive.
With more than four million produced
during its twenty-year production run, the
tiny Fiat 500 was something to behold. Easy
to spot by its rounded egg-like body, the Fiat
500 filled a need for utilitarian transportation
for the Italian masses when it was introduced
in 1957. The post-war European market
needed an affordable option, and the
rear-engined Fiat 500 was just the solution.
The rear-engine design was taken from the
Volkswagen Beetle and proved popular
enough to be adopted by several other
carmakers.
The designer behind the 500 was Dante
The 500 endured a successful life span due to it economical size, excellent fuel economy, easy to repair, styling, competitive
price, and city-friendly driving characteristics. Due to its small size, it was easy to navigate and drive in the small, Italian streets.
Thanks to its short wheelbase and length, the vehicle could maneuver easily into cramped parking spaces.
Giacosa, who was famed for being one of
the greatest designers in Fiat's history who
not only dealt with the car design, but also
had a big hand in the engineering. A cheap
and practical town car, the Nuova (new) 500
was debuted in July 1957 and is considered
one of the first city cars and lasted until
1960. Giacosa was extremely motivated to
construct a car that packed more into a
smaller space and he did this by making the
engine mount at the rear side. It featured a
smaller two-cylinder engine than all newer
models, and produced just 13 bhp. The
Nuova featured a fabric roof that folded
entirely back to the rear of the car, similar to
the Citroën 2CV. It was one of three models
that came with 'suicide doors'. A stylish
Sport version of the Nuova came with a
special red stripe and more power in the
engine.
With kart-like handling, the four-seat 500
was powered by an air-cooled 479cc flat
twin, which eventually was boosted to 499cc
that gave 18 bhp. With a top speed of
55mph, the 500 was an incredibly popular
and practical vehicle of choice throughout
Europe. Weighing at only 1,100 pounds, the
500 had a wheelbase of 72.4 inches, a length
of 116.9 inches, a width and height of 52.0
inches. The 500 had a Cx (aerodynamic
resistance coefficient) of 0,38, which was
quite impressive for the era.
The 'D' replaced the original Nuova in 1960.
Similar in appearances to the car it replaced,
two differences set the models apart: the
engine size and the roof. The D came with
an up rated 499 cc engine that produced 17 hp
as standard and continued to be used until
the end of the L in 1973. The roof for the
D didn't fold back as far as the Nuova, but
it that earlier roof was available as the
'Transformable'. The D also came with
'suicide doors'. Torino Motors assembled
the 500D in New Zealand and it was locally
dubbed the 'Fiat Bambina'.
The 500 was offered as the 'Giardiniera'
station wagon variant in addition to the
two-door coupe in 1960 until 1975. The
wagon had the standard engine laid on its
side, an additional 10 cm wheelbase that made
room for a useable rear seat, larger brakes
and a full-length sunroof. Called the K or
Giardiniera, the estate version of the Fiat
500 is the longest running model. To create
a flat loading surface, the engine was laid
under the floor of the trunk. The roof stretches
all the way to the rear and didn't stop at the
driver and front passenger like other models
of the time. The K came with 'suicide doors',
and unlike other models, it continued to
carry these doors into the 1970s. Production
moved to Desio in 1966 and the Giardiniera
was constructed by Fiat subsidiary Autobianchi.
Production of the Giardiniera tallied at
327,000 which later examples featuring
Autobianchi rather than Fiat badging.
The Fiat 500 F or Berlina was produced from
1965 until 1973 and spans two period of 500
production, the D and the L. Because of the
two production periods, the F model is very
easily confused and misidentified. The F
sported the same badging as the D from
1965 until 1969, but the two models can be
easily told apart by the positioning of their
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door hinges. The F produced from June 1965
finally featured front-hinged doors while the
D has 'suicide doors'. From '69 until '72 the
F was sold next to the Lusso models as the less
expensive 'base model' version. There wasn't
much mechanically different from the F and
L, but the main differences lay in the bumpers
and the interior. The L had an extra chrome
nudge bar, and the inside of the L featured a
fresher updated look while the F interior didn't
change from the original 1957 design.
Introduced in 1968 was the L or Lusso 500
model. It featured a modern interior that
included a revamped dashboard and paid
special attention to comfort and style for the
passenger. The 500 L was produced until 1972.
The final version of the 500 was the R or
Rinnovata version. The R model sported a
larger 594 cc engine that was designed by
Abarth with a more practical power rating of
23 bhp and a full synchromesh gearbox. This
final model was much more comfortable than
previous version yet was more simply equipped
and trimmed than before. The fuel gauge was
removed and only the low fuel indicator was left.
Several custom models of the 500 were
produced, included the 'Jolly' version by
Carrozzeria Ghia with inspiration taken from
the very exclusive Fiat 600 Jolly. The Jolly
came with wicker seats, a chopped-roof, no
doors and usually seen with a canopy roof.
Showing that they had a lot of muscle behind
their compact frame, seven Fiat 500s contested
the first and only Liège-Brescia-Liège Rally in
July of 1958. They were beaten by Messer-
schmitt TG500 and the Berkeley SE492s, but
the little Italian cars show their rugged side
and proved they were capable of incredible
durability. Reputed to be the smallest car to
complete a world circumnavigation, a 1969
Fiat 500 travelled 32,000 road kilometers in
less than 100 days. In 2005 a 1973 500 took
a 16,000 km trip travelling through Russia for a
100 day journey. Its progress was documented
by newspaper and television stations worldwide
and eventually a book entitled La bizzarra
impresa ('The bizarre exploit') was published
about the trip. In 2007 this same car became
the first Fiat 500 to reach the Sahara dunes was
taken around the Mediterranean Sea for over
10,000 kilometers.
The Fiat 500 was produced from 1957 until
1975 and was replaced with the Fiat 126. The
500 R was sold alongside the 126 for two
years before the 500 was retired. More than
3.6 million Fiat 500 cars were sold during its
lifetime and at end the production had been
outsourced to a Polish company called FSM.
The 126 never reached the same popularity
as its predecessor in Italy. In March of 2007
Fiat debuted the all-new 500 model, based on
the '04 Fiat Trepiuno concept. Its arrival
coincided with fifty years since the original
500. The new 500 is also dubbed the bambino
and competes with the Mini Cooper and the
Volkswagen Beetle.
How to Store Your
Classic Car
A car lying dormant can lead to countless,
and priceless, damages: rubber rot, interior
mildew, outer rust, engine parts seizing,
short circuit wiring, paint bubbling,
fiberglass cracking, chrome pitting,
brakes freezing, and batteries dying. Here's
how to give your classic vehicle the love it
deserves...even when you're NOT behind
the wheel.
1
Detail it thoroughly. Wash the dirt from the top AND
bottom...get underneath there and scrub. Next, wax it down.
Do NOT buff off chromed surfaces yet. This can wait until
you remove the car from storage. Lubricate all its rubber
parts and clean it's upholstery and vacuum the interior.
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2
Don't forget to drain your fluids. Ideally, you should
drain your car's fluids while it's still warm. When it is heated
and circulating, oil picks up and emulsifies contaminants.
That's why you must ALWAYS WEAR A GLOVE to protect
yourself from hot engine oil burns NOTE: Make sure the oil contains
corrosion protection.
3
Put fresh grease into your universal joints. This only
applies if your car has lube fittings. Put clean grease on all
of the steering and suspension fittings and pack the front
wheel bearings.
4
5
Let it Bleed... the brakes, that is. The best way to insure
your car against brake deterioration is to drain your system
of old fluids and refill with new ones.
For long term storage (6 months+), drain the fuel
tank. the brakes, that is. The best way to insure your car
against brake deterioration is to drain your system of old
fluids and refill with new ones.
6
Drain the cooling system, including the radiator,
leaving the petcock open and the radiator cap off.
the brakes, that is. The best way to insure your car against
brake deterioration is to drain your system of old fluids and
refill with new ones.
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The battery is the heart of your car, remove it
carefully and store it well, if you want it to survive.
Wash it down with water and baking soda, then rinse it
off with distilled water. Store it off the ground, and in a
dry place...but not on concrete. You can also hook it up
to a battery charger/maintainer to keep the battery alive.
8
Raising the bar for storing your car... raise your
car up and place jack stands under the suspension points.
Remove the tires and stack them, placing cardboard between
each one as you do so. Finally, cover tires to protect them
from harm.
9
Lock it in the pocket. Depress the clutch and lock it
in position. To do this, press a 2 x 4 against the clutch and
the front of the seat. This will prevent your clutch plates
from sticking together in storage.
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10
Store convertibles with the top up. Convertible
tops can shrink if they are left in the down position for
an extended period of time.
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Tuck your car in for a long Summer (with a proper
car cover... not a blanket. When choosing a car cover,
it's very important to select the right kind of fabric. Cotton
flannel fabrics breathe well, allowing air to circulate
through them as well as being "cotton soft" and gentle
on your paint job. On the other hand, cotton/polyester
fabric blends trap heat and moisture. Plastic films don't
breathe at ALL and, therefore, should be avoided. They
are a breeding ground...for rust.
The final things you should do:
- Roll down your windows so air can circulate.
- Open boxes of baking soda, to absorb moisture, and put
them in various places inside the cab (mothballs will also
work)
- Also keep moisture at bay by putting a plastic bag over the
carburetor.
- Stuff a rag up the tailpipe to keep out pests.
Prepping Your Car for the Spring Shows
There’s nothing better than dropping the top
on your classic roadster and going for a spin down
Jumairah road, or opening it up to zip down an
empty desert road. Of course, you’re also going to
want to make sure your beauty is looking at its best
for the spring car shows, especially after a summer
wrapped in tarps in a smoldering garage, so here are
nine things you should do before you drive further
than around the block, all of which will make sure
that car looks and sounds like the classic vehicle that
it is.
1
Flush the fuel. It may seem wasteful but it’s really
important to flush the fuel lines and drain the gas
tank, so you can start with fresh fuel that hasn’t
been sitting and stagnating for months. Be sure to check
the carburetor float bowls as well, and always make sure to
follow your environmental rules for disposing of motor fuel.
2
Can the coolant. Just like the fuel system, you’ll
want to drain the coolant and flush that system as
well. Many modern coolants include corrosion
inhibitors that have spent the summer slowly eating away
any rust inside the cooling system, and if you don’t flush the
lines, you could cause a blockage down the road.
3
Change the Oil. There’s a very good chance that
the oil in your car has been contaminated by
water or rust-causing acids. Drain and replace the
oil with a fresh batch, and don’t forget to change the filter,
as well.
4
Charge the Battery. Check your battery’s strength
and charge it if necessary. BEFORE you put the
spark plugs (see point five) back into the car, turn
the engine over using just the key – and do so several times
to allow lubricant to coat the cylinder walls and prime the
oil and fuel pumps. You’ll want to repeat this action until
the oil pressure light goes off.
5
Lubricate the Cylinders: A car that has been
stored for time is prone to having stuck piston
rings, or may just be really dry. Remove the spark
plugs, and use a lubricant designed for the job to coat the
upper cylinders. Don’t put the spark plugs back in until
0in point four.
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6
Charm your Carburetor. Once the battery and
spark plugs have been reinstalled, remove the
cover from the air filter and spray engine starter
fluid into the carburetor mouths to help make sure the
first attempt at starting your engine is successful.
7
Bleed the Brakes. The brake lines should be
bled, and the brake and clutch master cylinders
should be checked to make sure they’re full of
brake fluid. Check the emergency braking system, also.
8
Get it Warm. After you are satisfied that all the
necessary systems are in working order, start the
car, but don’t rev the engine. Rather, idle the car and
allow the engine to warm up. Then, pull out of the garage,
and check the vacated garage floor to be certain that there are
no fluid leaks. Finally take a very short drive – about half
an hour – just to make sure all systems are really "go."
9
Detail Clean. The last thing to do before you show
off your car is to give it a thorough cleaning. You
may have done this before you put the car into
storage last summer, but you want the chrome to be
gleaming, the paint to be shiny, etc. Not only does this
make your car look better, but it helps prevent corrosion.
So wash and dry the car, inside and out. Clean and shine
the tires and the upholstery, and after the car is completely
dry, add a fresh coat of wax.
After all this, your collectible car is ready to see
and be seen on the open road or at the various auto
shows. Pack a picnic lunch, pick a sunny day, go for
a drive, and grin as people point and stare at your
vehicle when you drive by.
Curing deadly engine
vacuum leaks
Insufficient intake manifold
vacuum can be deadly to an internalcombustion engine. As a refresher, the intake
stroke of an internal-combustion engine
draws in a mixture of fuel and air from the
carburetor at about a 13:1 ratio of air to
gasoline. This creates a vacuum between the
carburetor butterfly (or butterflies on a
multi-throat carburetor) and the piston tops.
Insufficient vacuum will reduce engine
efficiency, causing a loss of power and fuel
economy and rough operation, especially at
idle. Prolonged vacuum leaks can eventually
cause serious engine damage. There are many
places vacuum can be lost, but with a few
simple tools and diligent detective work,
vacuum leaks can be cured for a sweetrunning engine.
Leak check prep
Begin with a vacuum gauge and the vehicle’s
shop or repair manual. The shop manual
should specify how much manifold vacuum
is specified for the vehicle’s engine. Also have
access to simple hand tools in case the
carburetor or manifold must be tightened.
Also have access to standard or Vice
Grip-brand pliers in case a hose must be
temporarily blocked. A can of carburetor
Vacuum leaks can be located with spray carburetor cleaner or a can of WD-40. If the area is obstructed by linkage or hoses,
use an extension nozzle to pinpoint the area of the vacuum leak. If the engine speeds up when an area is sprayed, you are
close to finding the leak.
cleaner, an 18-inch length of 1/2-inch fuel
hose and a couple of shop rags will also come
in handy. Before tackling any type of
carburetion problem, the rest of the engine
needs to be properly tuned. That means
spark plugs and wires need to be checked,
the points need to be set and operating
properly and the timing — initial lead as well
well as vacuum and centrifugal advances
— need to be properly set. If the engine has
mechanical valve lifters (tappets), they must
be properly adjusted as tight valves will
eventually burn, causing a rough idle and
low manifold vacuum. While the spark plugs
are removed, a cylinder compression check
will determine the condition of the valves
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sign and symptom is a rough idle. This is
when a vacuum leak can be tricky. A rough
idle that only shows up when stopped at a
stoplight could be a defective power brake
booster. Often, the plastic check valve will fail,
giving an obvious hissing sound.Replacing
the valve should cure that problem. If the
problem is in the power brake booster, use
Vice Grip pliers to clamp shut the hose. If
that solves the problem and there is a noticeable
change in idle quality, you are on the road to
success. If idle quality is poor, a “shade
tree” method of placing a shop rag over
the carburetor intake may indicate a vacuum
leak, as the reduction of intake air will make
the idle mixture richer, offsetting the leak. If
the idle speed and quality improves, there is
a leak — somewhere.
If you suspect internal leakage, pinch off the suspected hose with a pair of pliers or Vice-Grips. If the idle significantly
changes, you are close to the solution.
A rough idle only when stopped at a stoplight may be a defective power brake booster. Pinching off the vacuum at the power
brake booster may help in isolating the problem.
and rings. If one has access to an ignition
oscilloscope, that diagnostic tool can shortcut
some of these operations. In stubborn cases,
it may pay to have a knowledgeable technician
scope-check the vehicle’s ignition system.
With the engine cold, check the manifold
heat-control valve for proper operation. Also
called the “heat riser,” this often-ignored and
neglected item can also cause a multitude of
carburetion issues. Many people find the heat
riser to be an “out of sight, out of mind,”
component. However, when the engine is
cold, a properly operating manifold heatcontrol valve channels exhaust heat through
passages under the carburetor for proper
warm-up in cold weather. After warm-up, the
valve should divert the hot exhaust gasses
through the muffler(s) and tailpipe(s). If the
heat riser is stuck in the cold position, the
results can be vapor lock and fuel percolation in the carburetor float, resulting in hard
starting when the engine is warm. Extreme
cases can cause manifold and carburetion
warping or even cracking. Occasionally, the
passage under the carburetor can become
clogged with carbon deposits, a common
occurrence in Chrysler small-block V-8
engines.
Airing out the issues
There are various signs and symptoms of
vacuum leaks, some subtle and others not so
subtle. One obvious sign is a loud hissing
sound under the hood, sometimes accompanied
by a whistle during deceleration. Another
From the 1960s and thereafter, vehicle
manufacturers used manifold vacuum to
operate various accessories: heater and air
conditioning controls, remote trunk locks,
door locks, hidden headlamp doors, power
brake boosters, radio antennas, emissioncontrol devices, transmission modulators,
and so on. This is where pliers or Vice
Grips can come in handy. Start by clamping
shut the main vacuum hose at the manifold.
If there is a noticeable change in idle speed
or idle quality, you are on the track to
tracking down the problem.
OK, there is a leak, but where is it? Find a
quiet place to work away from outside
noises. If your hearing is not what it used to
be, enlist a helper. A hissing noise from
under the car indicates a leak at the
transmission modulator, or the hose leading
to it from the intake manifold. If leaking
heat and/or air conditioning components
can be heard inside the car, from under the
dash, enlist that 18-inch fuel line to
pinpoint the leak. If the leak hasn’t been
found, find a can of carburetor cleaner or
even WD-40. Using an extension tube,
spray around all of the intake manifold
joints and gasket surfaces. If the spray is
sucked up and idle increases, the problem
may have been located.
On older engines, problems that the
engineers who wrote the repair manuals
have never dreamed of may appear. I have
occasionally encountered warped and
cracked carburetors and manifolds when I
operated my tune-up shop. On one
occasion, I encountered a porous intake
manifold, which was very tricky to find.
Emission controls, such as Exhaust Gas
Recirculation (EGR) valves, can also cause
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ECCC
Newsletter
numerous carburetion problems. On
mid-’60s vehicles with Air Injection
Reactor (A.I.R.) systems where air is
pumped into the exhaust manifolds, the
carbon vanes inside the pump will
occasionally disintegrate. This causes
carbon chunks to block open the diverter
valve and lean out the mixture. Clamping
off the hoses will reveal if that is the
issue.
Often, the plastic plug of the power brake connector will pop out causing a massive vacuum leak.
Credits:
Car Wash by Hadi Davodpour from The Noun Project,Temperature by MarkieAnn Packer from The Noun Project, Funnel by Mister Pixel from The Noun Project,Icon by Juan Garces from The Noun Project, Icon by Aha-Soft from The Noun Project, Battery by
María Carranza from The Noun Project,Tire by Veselin Andreev from The Noun Project,Drops by Hello Many from The Noun Project, Propeller & Roadster by Arthur Shlain from The Noun Project, Lock by Alex AS from The Noun Project
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