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EXTENDED STAY SPECIAL EXTENDED SPECIAL SUMMER STAY $99.88 PARK UPUPTOTO3030 DAYS PARK DAYSFOR FORONLY ONLY$148 WWW.PARK2GO.CA CALCH102643_1_1 CYCLIN G I N C UBA: Pag e G 5 | calgaryherald.com/travel travel EDITOR: Tom Babin 403-235-7157 [email protected] Saturday, august 31, 2013 reminder: Great adventure Fuels imaGination Section G Free adventures For kids Just for the summer, kids get free tickets to Brewster’s adventures in Banff: ride the gondola to a mountaintop, cruise an alpine lake and drive on an ancient glacier. Free, limited time offer for Alberta residents. Restrictions may apply. travelalberta.com CALCH108546_1_1 Travel Notes ‘Flight Path’ to open soon trail • Construction of a recreational trail circling the perimeter of Victoria International Airport is expected to be completed by mid-September, says airport CEO Geoff Dickson. “There are wonderful vistas,” Dickson said, citing ocean and mountain views along the paved 9.3-kilometre route called Flight Path. And for aviation buffs, there’s also the sight of aircraft coming and going. Work on the multi-use trail, suitable for cyclists, joggers and walkers, began in 2008 and has been completed in stages. For access, there’s parking at regular intervals along the trail. Funded by the Victoria Airport Authority, the route passes by Patricia Bay, a couple of creeks, the federal government’s Institute of Ocean Sciences research centre, the B.C. Aviation Museum, aircraft products manufacturer Viking Air and the home base for the Canadian Forces’ 443 Maritime Helicopter Squadron. Dickson suggests people coming to the airport incorporate the trail in their travel planning: “Check in a few hours early and get out for a walk.” Rembrandt work on display art • B.C.’s Burnaby Art Gallery is pairing two complementary exhibitions of Dutch art — one consists of landscapes, the other focuses on people — that include works by Rembrandt and other important artists from the 17th to 19th centuries. Storms and Bright Skies: Three Centuries of Dutch Landscapes is a touring show with 65 works from the National Gallery of Canada. Inner Realms: Dutch Portraits features 17 oils, drawings, prints and watercolours on loan from the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria. Both exhibitions will be on display, on separate floors, from Sept. 6 to Nov. 17. Among the Rembrandts, there is a self-portrait dating from 1638, as well as a portrait of his wife, Saskia, dated 1636, said assistant curator Jennifer Cane. Jan van Goyen, Jacob van Ruisdael, Cornelis Janssens van Ceulen and Adriaen van Ostade are among the other artists represented in the two shows. Cline exhibit is now open music • An exhibition focusing on the short but significant life of country music legend Patsy Cline opens Aug. 30 at the Museum of the Shenandoah Valley in Winchester, Va. It will tell the story of Virginia “Ginny” Patterson Hensley before she became Patsy Cline. Before her death at age 30, Cline recorded the country classics Crazy and Sweet Dreams, among other enduring hits. The Virginia native daughter spent most of her life in the Shenandoah Valley. The museum exhibit, called Becoming Patsy Cline, will include rare photographs, video and audio recordings and clothing. The museum says some objects have never been on public display. Aboard a crown jewel Scenic Cruises continues to raise bar for European river ships The parliament buildings in Budapest, taken through the open, drop-down window on a sun lounge on Scenic Pearl. The river “spaceship” (inset) stands ready for embarking on the Rhine following a medieval banquet, an exclusive Scenic activity, at the 12th century Marksburg Castle in Germany. Theresa Storm For the Calgary Herald “It is like a ping-pong match … castle to the left, castle to the right,” quipped Janina, the Pearl’s cruise director, the evening before we sailed through the scenic Rhine Gorge, with its stunning medieval castles perched precipitously on rocky ledges amid vinecovered slopes sliding perilously to the river. That is one reason the 64-kilometre-long gorge is the most popular European river cruise destination and the Upper Middle Rhine a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It didn’t take long aboard Scenic Cruises’ Pearl, a stunning, rebuilt “spaceship” (Scenic’s name for its state-of-the-art ships) relaunched in April, to understand why river voyages are the hottest thing in cruising and luxury travel. River cruising is indeed a pampered and expedient way to visit several countries — we saw five on our 15-day Budapest to Amsterdam Jewels of Europe itinerary on the Danube, Main and Rhine rivers. It’s almost effortless — no getting lost or schlepping luggage onto trains and into hotels. Best of all, Scenic includes absolutely everything (except personal services), with a choice of guided or GPSindependent tours in each port and exclusive activities, like a private Viennese concert at Palais Liechtenstein. Ease is why a river voyage appealed to my mother, my travel companion. For mature travellers, an independent trip can be exhaust- ing and stressful. While we have shied away from cruising (the horde of passengers on our only ocean cruise wasn’t for us), we loved the idea of a smallscale “floating hotel” and unpacking for two weeks, and travelling with fewer, but more like-minded, passengers. We aren’t the only ones. Demand for river cruises is escalating more quickly than for other types of cruises — showing annual double-digit growth the past five years, while cruising of all kinds is one of the fastest-growing travel segments. Europe is the second most popular cruise destination globally. While there are a plethora of ships plying the continent’s great rivers and plenty of river lines — many larger and more well-known than Australia-based Scenic — we saw none more elegant than Scenic’s fleet. The race is on amongst river lines to differentiate their offerings and launch stylish new vessels — at least a score will take to European rivers next year, including two new spaceships. To ensure it continues to be an industry leader, last winter Scenic nearly completely rebuilt its five older European spaceships, including Pearl, to match its two newest ships. What’s surprising is these “older” ships were only 18 months to four years old. The best improvement, mom and I agree, was converting the private full-sized balcony to a sun lounge with floor-to-ceiling window. A hydraulic switch easily lowers the window halfway or raises it, allowing use regardless of weather. So far, only Scenic ships sport this sun lounge (stay tuned, however, as competitors appear to follow Scenic’s industryleading innovations). As outdoor lovers, we coveted this fresh air, watch-the-scenery-go-by sitting space, and particularly enjoyed eating breakfast privately in our bathrobes, delivered by our always smiling butler Joanna. She and cabin steward Rita ensured we were taken care of, as did the entire first-rate crew. Although it seemed too good to be true, butler service is not for the privileged few in the highest cabin categories; it’s included for all guests. This was just one of the fully-inclusive perks we loved. Others were a personalized mini bar, restocked daily; 24-hour limited-menu room service; a pillow menu and chocolates at evening turndown; all-day alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages; and all meals, snacks, and bottled water for shore excursions; among others. The included smallgroup, staff-guided tours were the “perk” we took full advantage of, enticing us to explore more often and more thoroughly than if tours were additional. Usually, three or four interestbased tours were offered in each port or to surrounding destinations, sometimes in neighbouring countries. Options often included a walking and sometimes a cycling tour with Scenic’s nifty electric-assisted bikes (meaning the bike does much of the uphill work!). Guests were also free to borrow a bike or head out for independent sightseeing, guided, if desired, by specialty-themed audio GPS tours. Usually the ship docked close to town — another advantage of small ships, allowing passengers to come and go. Almost always, free time after tours allowed for independent exploration or sampling regional specialties (when in Germany, one must try Regensburg bratwurst at the world’s oldest sausage kitchen and Bamberg’s famous smoked beer). See JEWEL, Page G2 G2 TRAVEL Saturday, August 31, 2013 Breaking news at calgaryherald.com Photos: Theresa Storm Heaps of sausages and mounds of sauerkraut, served with sweet mustard, are prepared at the 900-year-old Historische Wurstkuche, the world’s oldest sausage kitchen in Regensburg, Germany, where 6,000 bratwurst are served daily. Regensburg is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. JEWEL: River cruises continue to gain steam FROM G1 It was on the tours that we began to get to know our fellow travellers. Not surprisingly, I was among the youngest of 145 passengers, which was a perfect number for a two-week trip. The majority were in their 60s and 70s, but most, like mom, were fit and energetic, eager to explore Europe’s medieval gems. Most were Australian, owing to Scenic’s Australianownership, with a We’re seesmattering a strong ing of New enough Zealanders, B r i t s a n d demand in Canadians Europe … rounding MARK out the pasSCHIFFNER senger list. In addition to regular tours, all passengers were treated to three exclusive-toScenic activities. A good time was had experiencing daily life in the typical German village of Wertheim. Visitors chose from 10 activities, including playing a game of Kegeln (similar to bowling), visiting a schnapps maker (and tasting 16 kinds), or making springerle — a biscuit for decorating Christmas trees, followed by lunch in a cellar. Mom’s favourite was Don Braid When it comes to covering Alberta politics, one columnist stands out from all others – Don Braid. With more than 40 years of journalism experience, Braid delivers the analysis and exclusive content that no one else can. He knows the secrets of politicians. He knows what goes on behind closed doors. He has sources everywhere. For political coverage you can’t get anywhere else, check out Don Braid in the Calgary Herald, at calgaryherald.com and follow him at twitter.com/donbraid. If you go the Viennese concert, mine the medieval banquet and tour of 12th-century Marksburg Castle. When we weren’t off the ship touring, we were kept busy on board with lectures, activities and entertainment, including Hungarian folklore and Bavarian music performances, a zither concert, a glass-blowing demonstration, a river lock talk, a quiz and a disco night. After 14 nights, I left the ship with a paltry $120 bill for laundry and massage. By all accounts, it’s full steam ahead for river cruising. Scenic reports early bookings for next year are higher than ever, precipitating its recent decision to build a new European ship, in addition to one launching in France next year. Along with the new ships, five new itineraries will debut. “We’re seeing a strong enough demand in Europe that some of the crown jewels of the industry are plying European waters,” says Mark Schiffner, vice-president and chief operating officer of Cruise Holidays International. Pearl — and the rest of Scenic’s fleet — certainly number among those jewels. Information: ■ Visit your travel agent to pick up Scenic Cruise’s Europe 2014 brochure detailing European and Russian itineraries, including a DVD, or download at http:// ca.scenictours.com/ ■ 15-day Budapest to Amsterdam Jewels of Europe itinerary starts at $5,295 per person twin share for 2014 departures. However, many shorter, less expensive itineraries are available. Free information session: ■ Calgary — Sept 14 at 10 a.m. or 1 p.m. at Holiday Inn, 4206 Macleod Trail South. Register online. Also, many locations across Canada this fall. See http://ca.scenictours. com/europe-river-cruisepresentation/ ■ Book early bonus: Scenic Cruises offers incentives for booking by Oct. 31, ranging from savings of up to $2,000 per couple to free flights to Europe (deadlines for savings vary). Breaking news: ■ New Emerald Waterways launches in 2014. Scenic Tours just announced a new subsidiary, Emerald Waterways, is launching next year, and will offer less-expensive, seven- to 14-night European cruises on two ships, starting at $2,230 US per person, double occupancy. It’s the first new European river cruise company to set sail in more than six years. 1-855-222-3214, www. emeraldwaterways.com ■ Land tours: Scenic Tours, its parent, offers all-inclusive escorted tours in Europe, Australia, New THERESA STORM’S CRUISE WAS COURTESY OF SCENIC CRUISES. SCENIC CRUISES DID NOT REVIEW THIS STORY PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. Zealand, the Americas and elsewhere. ■ http://ca.scenictours. com/ ■ Scenic’s Vancouver office: Phone 1-866-6898611 toll-free or 604-6898611 http://ca.scenictours. com/ Cruising tips: ■ Book your preferred itinerary at least a few months in advance, as sales are strong. ■ Before booking, understand the fine print in the terms and conditions of carriage or similar document — ask your travel agent to assist. This year, many European rivers had record-breaking floods, which affected river cruises. ■ Some voyages were cancelled (none of Scenic’s), but others went ahead by busing and accommodating passengers in hotels for a portion. ■ Some cruise lines did not allow passengers to cancel or change voyage dates and compensation to those who could not sail the full voyage was not adequate according to some I talked to (i.e. one major line offered a 30 per cent discount on the next cruise, within a year). ■ Ask your agent about insurance. Scenic passenger Marion Schadeck scans historic flood lines noted on a building in Melk, Austria. This year, a flood there topped a record set in 1501. FLY AWAY AND PLAY! PACKAGES TO LAUGHLIN, NV FOR ONLY $399! LAS VEGAS STYLE CASINO GAMING ON THE COLORADO RIVER. ESCORTED MOTORCOACH TOURS CROSS CANADA BY MOTORCOACH Autumn Splendor Tour! 29 days, September 10 guaranteed MARITIMES BY MOTORCOACH Several FLY tours to choose from! 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