a study of the paisley motif and development of a template for the

A STUDY OF THE PAISLEY MOTIF AND DEVELOPMENT OF A TEMPLATE FOR
THE MOTIF
BY
ANSHU CHOUDHARY
SUBMITTED TO NIFT IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE
REQUIREMENT FOR THE DEGREE OF
MASTER OF DESIGN
DEPARTMENT OF DESIGN SPACE
FACULTY GUIDE: PROFESSOR REBECCA PHILIP
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
MUMBAI
2013-2015
DECLARATION
I Anshu Choudhary hereby declare that the project tilted – “Innovation in paisley motif:
Template design for easy drawing” is authentic and original and is the outcome of my
contribution and research. The project was carried out under the guidance of Professor.
Rebecca Philip at the Post graduate department of design space (PGDS), Mumbai. No
portion of this work has been submitted in support of an application for another degree
or qualification to NIFT or any other university or professional organization.
Signature of the student
Place: NIFT Mumbai
Date:
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I would like to thank my mentor Professor. Rebecca Philip for her support, expert
guidance and assistance throughout this project. I would like to thank all the faculty and
staff of the department of master of design space for providing an excellent program and
a wonderful opportunity for learning. I would also like to thank my fellow students at NIFT
who provided me with support and companionship. I would like to show my greatest
appreciation to the Ministry of textiles, Govt. of India and National Institute of Fashion
Technology Mumbai for giving me an opportunity to accomplish the project.
I am grateful to course co-ordinator Mrs. Rashmi Gulati for executing and coordinating
this entire semester and the dissertation project with all the guidance.
I am grateful to Professor. Sharmila Dua for guiding me from conceptualization to product
development. Without her support, executing the final design would not have impossible.
Lastly, I would like to thank stencil maker who made it possible to complete final design.
ABSTRACT
Paisley is an easily recognized motif that resembles a crooked tear drop or half of a yinyang. Though the recognizable paisley motif was originally crafted by Indian artisans, it
was brought to Scotland in the early 19th century, where it received its name. The motif
was named after the Scottish town of Paisley, where printed cotton and wool fabrics were
manufactured in mass.
Paisley motif saw its first acclaimed popularity in the 1960s. The popularity of Paisley are
multifarious and they are being applied in various aspects like interior design, graphic
design, and fashion and textile design. The motif are traditionally used as Ornaments of
furniture, wall papers, textile products and garments.
The contemporary items that can be seen are uncountable, the product category of
garments includes shawls, ties, handbags, jackets, shirt, pants, dresses, skirts, gloves,
hats, curtains and various home décor.
Keeping the various categories where the paisley motif is used, this study is being
conducted to understand the awareness amongst the young generation about the motif
and also to develop a template to simplify the drawing of paisley motifs.
TABLE OF CONTENT
TITLE
PAGE
NO.
CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION
1.1 BACKGROUND OF STUDY
1
1.2 OBJECTIVE
1
1.3 SCOPE OF STUDY
2
1.4 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
2
CHAPTER 2: REVIEW OF LITERATURE
2.1 THE BACKGROUND STUDY
3
2.2 HISTORY OF PAISLEY MOTIF
6
2.3 THE KASHMIR SHAWL
7
2.4 PAISLEY MOTIF IN WOVEN TEXTILES
15
2.5 PAISLEY MOTIF IN EMBROIDERED TEXTILES
18
2.6 PAISLEY MOTIF IN PRINTED TEXTILES
20
2.7 CURRENT SCENARIO
27
2.8 USE OF PAISLEY MOTIF BY DESIGNERS AND BRANDS
37
2.9 STUDY ON METHOD AND TOOL FOR CREATING PAISLEY
MOTIF
2.9.1 GOLDEN RATIO
45
2.9.2 DIGITAL MEDIA
48
2.9.3 FREE HAND DRAWING
49
2.9.4 TRACING
50
2.9.5 OTHER TOOLS
51
2.9.6 FINDINGS
52
CHAPTER 3 PRIMARY DATA COLLECTION
54
CHAPTER 4 DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
4.1 STUDY A PERFECT PAISLEY
60
4.2 STUDY PROBLEM FACED BY BEGINNER ARTIST
61
4.3 DESIGN DEVELOPMENT PROCESS
62
CHAPTER 5 CONCLUSION AND LIMITATION
66
CHAPTER 6 REFERENCES
67
ANNEXURE I
69
ANNEXURE II
71
ANNEXURE III
72
PICTURE CONTENT
S. NO.
PLATE CAPTION
PAGE
NO.
Plate no.1
Roman mosaic of date palm tree from Brooklyn museum
4
Plate no. 2
European jacquard paisley shawl 1860
7
Plate no. 3
Development of paisley motif in Mughal period
8
Plate no. 4
Development of paisley motif in Afghan period
10
Plate no. 5
Development of paisley motif in Sikh period
11
Plate no. 6
Development of paisley motif in Dogra period
12
Plate no. 7
The development of the ornament on the Kashmir shawl
13
Plate no. 8
Use of paisley motif in Kanchipuram saree
15
Plate no. 9
Use of paisley motif in baluchari saree of west bengal
16
Plate no. 10
Paisley motif in Daccai Jamdanis
16
Plate no. 11
Paisley motif in banarasi brocade
17
Plate no. 12
Paisley motif in tanchoi silk saree
17
Plate no. 13
Paisley motif in chickankari embroidery
18
Plate no. 14
Paisley motif in zardosi embroidery
19
Plate no. 15
Paisley motif in kantha embroidery
19
Plate no. 16
Paisley print from 60’s fashion
20
Plate no. 17
Paisley print Integrate with butterfly
21
Plate no. 18
Paisley with Indigo resistant print
21
Plate no. 19
Paisley print 3D effect style
22
Plate no. 20
Paisley in Overlaying style
22
Plate no. 21
Paisley print Integrated with floral
23
Plate no. 22
Paisley print with dotted background
23
Plate no. 23
Paisley print in Pointillism
24
Plate no. 24
Paisley print Water color effect from Jil Sander 2011
24
Plate no. 25
Paisley print with Text elements
25
Paisley print Figuration in Skelton pattern from Alexander
Plate no. 26
Mcqueen
25
Plate no. 27
Paisley print with Smudge style
26
Plate no. 28
Paisley print in Burned style
26
Plate no. 29
Paisley pattern by Ossie clark 1975
27
Plate no. 30
2010 winter Olympic uniform by Azerbaijan
28
Etro paisley shoe
29
Plate no. 32
Etro shirt
29
Plate no. 33
Henna paisley design
30
Plate no. 34
Contemporary metal necklace features a paisley design
31
Plate no. 31
etched onto a piece of brass then cut into a chevron shape.
Plate no. 35
Silver Tone Paisley Design Metal Pendant Women Indian
31
Fashion Jewellery Gift
Plate no. 36
Contemporary earrings paisley inspired design
32
Plate no. 37
Paisley neckpiece
32
Contemporary Metal Table with Unique Design for Home
Plate no. 38
Furnishings by Lazy Susan
33
Plate no. 39
Massive Paisley by carl Hansen & son
33
Plate no. 40
One porcelain Mug paisley design
34
Plate no. 41
Contemporary porcelain Dinner set
34
Plate no. 42
Contemporary Paisley candle holder
35
Plate no. 43
Phone case paisley pattern print purple yellow pink trendy
35
cover
Plate no. 44
Christine Donehue - Paper Filigree
36
Plate no. 45
Clarks Desert paisley Boot
36
Plate no. 46
Givenchy's Autumn/Winter 2012-13 Haute Couture collection
37
Plate no. 47
The Seventies staple was all over the runways in Paris.
38
Lakme fashion week,Yacht rock: Stripes with vivid paisley
Plate no. 48
dress,: Sophis-cadelic:
39
Plate no. 49
ODF Clothing – Simplicity is Royalty 2013
39
Plate no. 50
Hyde Park Polo club competition 2013
40
Plate no. 51
Manish Malhotra paisley design
40
Plate no. 52
Tarun tahiliani wedding collection
41
Plate no. 53
In vogue magazine for zara, judari, miu miu, kate spade
43
Plate no. 54
Emilio Pucci, famed for its swirls of pattern, updated its
44
signature print for spring/summer 2012
Plate no. 55
The Golden Ratio is the relationship between two numbers on
45
the Fibonacci sequence
Plate no. 56
plotting the relationships in scale
46
Plate no. 57
Plotting of paisley motif on golden scale
47
Plate no. 58
a paisley motif created in coral draw
48
paisley motif created in adobe illustrator
48
Plate no. 60
a hand drawn paisley motif
49
Plate no. 61
Tracing paper and tracing technique
50
Plate no. 62
A flexible curve ruler
51
Plate no. 63
French curve
52
Plate no. 64
The compass
53
Plate no. 65
Paisley motif analysis from Frank ames
60
Plate no. 59
Plate no. 66
The big book of realistic drawing secrets
61
Plate no. 67
a design exploration
62
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background of Study
The boteh, is a “mango” or “tear-drop” motif of Persian origin, adopted by India and
renamed Paisley in Scotland. Which is described as a classic and historical design
development with extraordinary exploration by both Asia and West. The Paisley motif
were being applied in various categories of our daily life, especially in textiles and
fashion. The Paisley motif has appeared on textiles for over three hundred years; the
styles of Paisley motif are uncountable. Besides, the Paisley motif had certain symbolic
meaning, reputations and identity in numerous countries and regions in particular
periods. In addition, there are multitudinous styles and elements of the combination with
certain layout styles to create the Paisley motif on textiles. The techniques to create
textile products nowadays are mostly machine made; therefore, the Paisley textile could
create in some innovative way. The experiments from this study showed the possibilities
on the revolutionary way to coordinate the certain existing style of Paisley and adding
new elements to create innovation for easy use.
1.2 Objectives

To find out the reason for paisley motif’s continuous existence and usage.

To study the evolution and transformation in the design.

To find out the usage of paisley motif by young textile designers and beginner
artists.

To find out problems faced by young designers and beginner artists and to
come up with a possible solution.
1
1.3 Scope of study

To study of the background and history of the Paisley motif.

The research on the symbolic meaning and specific designs of the motifs.

To study the different styles of the motif with special reference to Kashmir
Shawls during the Mughal, Afghan, Sikh and Dogra periods.

To study the popularity of the Paisley motif.

To study the modified styles used contemporarily.

To study the problems faced by young designers in drawing this motif.
1.4 Research methodology
Phase1
Secondary data
collection
Phase 6
Design
development
Phase 2
Primary data
collection
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
Phase 4
Problem
identification and
need gap
Phase 3
Analysis and
Observation
2
CHAPTER 2
PHASE 1 LITERATURE REVIEW
Desk research
The research started with secondary data collection through reference of Paisley motif
and textile design development from books and journals of institutional and museum
libraries. The focus of the information collected was mainly on Paisley motif of different
styles and categories. Literature review started with reviewing the history of paisley
motif, its origin and symbolic meaning behind the shape.
Internet research
The contemporary style paisley motif and application were collected through internet
websites and divided into categories as the books referred were old ones which were
not having current design development of paisley motifs. The contemporary paisley
motifs explored by different designers and brands are collected.
3
2.1 The Background study: Origin of paisley motif
Paisley is a motif that originated from Persia over three hundred years ago (Oxford
Dictionary, 2011) and its appearance is a curved shape outline based on Indian pinecone objects. The Paisley motif is an elegant and attractive design which contains
similar styles of floral and sprigs with the compelling layout and details from the past
generally (Ed, 1980).
(4)
The Paisley pattern reflected the textile development in various
stages and conditions that (Rossbach, 1997) had been influencing the culture
movements, architecture designs, textile design development, and fashion trends in
both Western and Eastern countries like India, France, United Kingdom, United States
from past to nowadays.
Paisley is a motif original from Persia for over three hundred years resembles a twisted
teardrop, the kidney-shaped paisley, but its western name derives from the town
of Paisley, in central Scotland. In Persian language the design is known as Boteh
Jegheh and it has been used in Iran since the Sassanid Dynasty (AD 224 to AD 651).
The pattern commonly known as “Paisley” is named after the eponymous town in
Scotland, but it didn't originate there. The pattern can indeed be traced back to ancient
Babylonian civilisation where it was used as a symbol to represent the growing shoot of
the date palm, also regarded as the "tree of life", since it provided Babylonians with
food, drink, clothing and shelter.
Plate no.1 Roman mosaic
from Brooklyn
museum
4
of
date
palm
tree
The popularity of Paisley motif are multifarious and are being applied in various aspects
like interior design, graphic design, and fashion and textile design. The motif is
traditionally used as ornaments in furniture, wall papers, textile products and garments.
The contemporary items we can find in Paisley motif today are uncountable, the product
category of garments includes shawls, ties, handbags, jackets, shirt, pants, dresses,
skirts, gloves, hats, curtains. The products contained Paisley could be easily found in
each season from different target markets and myriad kind of retailers, especially in
high-end luxury brands. The Paisley motif contribute to, and specifically influenced, the
symbolic meanings and identification of culture and sub-culture in particular social
groups.
The time when Paisley motif was invented as ornamentation and who was the first
inventor of this unique motif was unknown because the Paisley motif which is seen
nowadays look different from the style at its beginning time before 1900 (Ames, 1989).
At the beginning stage of around 17th century, motif were found in the Indian Kashmir
Shawls as the ornamentation on architectures. The records showed that the primordial
Paisley motif was a single form of nature flower or plants embellishment resembles the
cone-like shape as that of today, the symbol belief behind the motif in that particular
period was about appreciation of nature, and eternity of the life and health (Frank,
1986).
(5)
Gadsby (2002) suggested that the motif was begun in Kashmir India and for
over three hundred years between 1526 to 1857 that had brightly developed. One of the
Emperor Akbar (1556-1605) who could be described as the most significant person of
Paisley motif took the trade and loomed the shawls in Kashmir. Incidentally, the West
started to be inspired by the unique pattern and produced in their countries. The
Kashmir shawls represented the luxury and wealth until the nineteen century after the
factory applied the printing method to produce Kashmir shawls instead of producing the
complicated hand-weaving techniques to satisfy the market needs and concerns.(7)
The name of Paisley pattern in different countries:
The American traditionalists called it “Persian pickles”.

The Welsh named it “Welsh pears”.

The Tamil called it “Mankolam”.
5

The Persian named it “Botehjeheh”

The modern French calls it“Boteh” and “Palme”

The Pakistan called it “Carrey design” The Punjab called it “Ambi”
(answers.com 2015) (18)
2.2 History of Paisley motif
Reilly (1989) suggested that the comparison of the style of Paisley motif before three
hundred years ago could cover in four main periods of the Kashmir Shawls period in
India. These periods are Mughal Period (1586-1753), Afghan Period (1753-1819), Sikh
Period (1819-1846) and Dogra Period (1846-1877). The Kashmir Shawls were
fashionable among the wealthy people after arrived in Europe around 18th century.
Hence, the classic tear drop motif started to know as Paisley motif and recognized by
the compress tree, curved outline with floral and shrub as pine form after renamed by
Scotland and the Paisley Scottish town’s fabric mill started to produce the popular
cashmere shawls from India during the 19h century (Frank, 1986).(5) The fabric mills in
Paisley modified the Kashmir cone motif as before and weaved the motif onto large
square shawls in shades of red and brown that the particular pattern became known as
Paisley and appeared on the shawls and developed in the 19th and early 20th centuries
widely (Frank, 1997).(6) The Paisley motif was made for the King of the India for royal
purpose like crowns or court garments. Nevertheless, after the East India Company
purchased the Kashmir shawl and sold to Europe, the Europeans started to love this
kind of patterns deeply, The Kashmir shawl became a fashion item and was a desirable
item among the ladies of the upper class in that particular time and had becoming a
classic and fashionable pattern until now.
Studies on the styles of the Paisley motif
Introduction
In fact, the existing styles of Paisley pattern are uncountable and complicated to classify
into categories. Paisley pattern may contain traditional impression of India among
general public until today. Nevertheless, great amount of contemporary and innovative
designs are being created ceaselessly.
6
2.3 The Kashmir shawl
One of the possible ways to study the development of Paisley motif would be analyzing
the styles from the history of the Kashmir shawls. The four main stages in the Kashmir
shawl period were Mughal, Afghan, Sikh, Dogra, and each of the stage contributed to
the unique aspects and influences. Since the techniques to weave the Kashmir shawl
were mostly weaved by hand within the Kashmir Shawl period, the ornaments (Paisley
motif) on the Shawl were measured accurately with the same size and same angle so
that the whole motifs are constructed orderly and equally.
Plate no. 2 European jacquard paisley shawl 1860
Mughal Period.
At the beginning, the motifs on most of the Kashmir shawls, the vases and dishes, were
realistic and naturalistic plants. The motifs usually were of single type of plant; the
flower with leaves may have specific symbolic meaning of admiring nature. The motifs
on the shawl were constructed by numerous consolidated and micro flowers and curved
shapes in which the components of the pattern would scarcely connect or cover with
another (Frank, 1986). The layout of the pattern was constructed cautiously in which the
pattern rippled graciously and the leaves folded or twisted to show the effect of light and
the shadow. (5)
7
paisley buta, 1680. Kashmir
design.
Aslender
plant
design derived from Persian
floral ornament with the
naturalism of Mughal art.
Paisley Buta c 1700-1730,
Kashmir
design.
The
design evolved in early
eighteenth century to more
formal motif as the number
of flowers increased.
early
buta
on
Kashmir shawl used
as shoulder mantle –
Mughal dynasty. Ca
early 17 th century
Buta
on
shoulder
Mantle on Kashmir
Shawl Mughal Shawl
Mughal Dynasty, ca
1700-1730
Buta on a patka –
shoulder mantle. Mughal
dynasty. Ca late 17th
century. Brocaded with
silk thread and gold
thread.
Buta on shoulder
Mantle,
Mughal
dynasty
ca
17th
century.
Plate no. 3 Development of paisley motif in Mughal period
8
Afghan period
The styles of the patterns from the Afghan period were more stylized and abstract when
comparing with the style from the Mughal period. The layouts of the motif were in
bouquet form with semi-naturalistic styles rather than the single type of naturalistic
plants as the main elements. The shapes of curvilinear outline were introduced through
the intensity of color of the figuration. The Chinese ideogram roots were continued as a
major element from the last period continually. The vase at the root or bottom was
introduced and could be one of the important evolution elements to the development of
Paisley motif period that the curvilinear shape or outline by variety of flowers with the
vase was the most likely with the cone form of the Paisley motif0 could be seen today.
The “Qajar” pattern which certain insignificant flowers integrated with the vase was one
of the typical styles from Kashmir Shawl. The “Qajar” motif usually showed the opposing
angles and the layout of the plant element motif is composed of curvilinear shapes like a
pine cone (Frank, 1986). (5)
Paisley Buta. C 17401770. Kashmir Design.
Buta design was
established as a
predominant motif on
the Kashmir shawl.
Buta on Patka –
Shoulder
Mantle
Afghan
Period,
Kashmir, Late 18th
century.
9
Buta Waist Band,
Kashmir
shawl,
Afghan
Period,
Kashmir,
Loom
woven Pashmina,
Late 18th century.
Paisley Buta, c 17701800, Kashmir Design,
complexity
of
Buta
design increased as the
demand
by
royals
increased. More refined
designs with complex
buta motif evolved.
Buta on Shoulder
Mantle, Kashmir
Shawl,
Afghan
Period, Kashmir,
ca. 1815.
Buta on Shoulder
Mantle,
Kashmir
shawl,
Afghan
Period,
Kashmir,
ca. 1815.
Plate no. 4 Development of paisley motif in Afghan period
The vase
Vase was one of the major features of the Paisley pattern development by which the
cone motif were developed by the vase’s curvilinear form and radial flower technique or
style. The curvilinear form and the cone motif are in color instead of showing specific
nature style of floral species.
The vine
The vine appeared in certain period in which the hooked vine was one of the essential
developments in this period; the branches were vertical and interlaced with the inner
position of the motif being surrounded by the Ogival pattern style of leaves and narrow
flowers (Frank, 1986). (5)
Sikh period
In the Sikh period, the motif was influenced by the Western fashion, especially the
French culture and the Industrial Revolution of Europe from 1815-1820. The styles of
10
the motif became flourished into ornate style and incorporated with embellishment
elements. The new abstract style was developed after the curvilinear elements and
became semi-necessary. The lower part of the Paisley motif was shaped like vase
formed by flower and the outline was surrounded by various kinds of small flowers like
roses and lotus flower. The elements of the motif were developed into aigrette or cap,
the leaf with serrate, roses like lotus, the incline and pudgy motif with lengthy
extremities, the crook vine, cypress tree shape or outline, concentric cones and further
unclassified architectural embellishment. These elements emerged and fused to provide
a new image of the Paisley motif.
Paisley Buta, c 1815
onwards. Kashmir design,
Paisley Buta, c 1820 – 1830.
Kashmir design, Overwhelming
demand for Kashmir buta design
shawls from the west
Buta on Kashmir
shawl,
Afghan
Period, Kashmir,
ca 1810 – 1840.
Buta on Kashmir
Shawl, Sikh Period,
Kashmir, Pashmina,
ca, Mid 19thcentury.
Complex and sophisticated Buta paisley on long
Kashmir paisley shawl, Sikh Period, Kashmir,
11 Mid 19th Century.
Pashmina, ca,
Dogra Period
There were only a few designs on innovations like the sweeping zoomorphic motif
known as “celery stalks “in 1848 when compared with last three periods. The motifs on
the shawls were made by combining together separate patchworks. The flower-plant
motif with the signature ideogram root and the Islamic elements from the pattern
eliminated or decreased and the cone form developed into the leaves form became
more abstract styles with non-construction line and curve line. The following tables
showed the development of the ornament on the Kashmir shawl within the Mughal
Period, Sikh period, Dogra Period and Afghan period commonly. The cone form which
is developed by the motif which contains a vase at the bottom part with the increase of
variations of the “mango shape” style were developed.
Paisley Buta. C 1850 – 1870,
Kashmir Design, Very complex
designs with buta design
2.2 Popularity
and
culture
started
appearing
due
to the
French and British influences..
Kashmir
Paisley
shawl – Shoulder
Mantel,
Sikh
–
Dogra Period. 19th
Century.
Kashmiri
Paisley
Pashmina
Amlikar
Janawar Shawl, Sikh
–
Dogra
Period,
th
Kashmir, 19 Century,
Suzani
on
Kani
Woven shawl
Plate no. 6 Development of paisley motif in dogra period
12
“Naturalistic
plant”
“Foulard”
“Flower-plant motif”
“Flower-plant motif
with ideogram root”
“bouquet of
semi-nature
flower.”
“The bouquet of
flowers with a
vase.”
“The evolution of the
cone form”
“Several styles of the
cone form”
“The abstract
“Abstract style with non-construction line”
“Cone form with
style.”
unique tail design”
Plate no. 7 The development of the ornament on the Kashmir shawl within the Mughal
Period, Sikh period, Dogra Period and Afghan period commonly.
13
60’s
In the late 19 century, the Kashmir Shawl which contained Paisley motif did not
represent the luxury as before. The reason was about the tendency of applying the
printing technique instead of hand-weaving method to manufacture the Kashmir Shawl
(Tina, 1998).
(11)
Paisley motif became the dominant trend in the 60’s again in the form
of psychedelic style which played a significant role in the ethnic culture movement. In
particular, the hippie’s movements called 'summer of love' influenced both the lifestyle
and attitude at that time. Besides, the 60’s could be described as another remarkable
period of Paisley motif. In the Summer of Love period, the huge affection of Paisley
motif trend among the public after the hottest rock band Beatles in that time had spent a
journey to India. The members of Beatles wore the significant styles and accessories of
the Paisley motif frequently; they even applied the Paisley motif on their own vehicles
and musical instruments (answer.com, 2015). (18)
Psychedelic art
The Psychedelic art was one of the forceful art movements in 1960s and the Paisley
motif provided the psychedelic style. The Psychedelic art is an art piece which contains
visual images by the experience on the sense of psychedelic and narcotics as
inspirations. The Paisley motif is one of the key elements of the Psychedelic art which
integrates with the fractal and kaleidoscopic patterns.
14
2.4 Paisley motif in traditional Indian woven textile
Plate no. 8 Use of paisley motif in Kanchipuram saree
15
Plate no. 9 Use of paisley motif in baluchari saree of west bengal
Plate no. 10 Paisley motif in Daccai Jamdanis
16
Plate no. 11 paisley motif in banarasi brocade
Plate no. 12 paisley motif in tanchoi silk saree
17
2.4 Paisley motif in embroidered textiles
Plate no. 13 Paisley motif in chickankari embroidery
18
Plate no. 14 paisley motif in zardosi embroidery
Plate no. 15 Paisley motif in kantha embroidery
19
2.6 Paisley motif in printed textile
The contemporary style of Paisley motif had been developing into uncountable
multitudinous styles and appearances by integrating with different elements like floral,
animals, text images and architectures. The Paisley motif may not represent any symbol
behind meaning or message from most of the cultures today. Skinner (1998) had done
a visual collection to compare couple of common styles of the contemporary Paisley
motif with the aim to stimulate the readers to create the innovative Paisley. Paisley motif
which commonly evolved from plant forms contained various flowers, leaves or root
were seen in the seventeenth and eighteenth century India. Elaborate borders showing
the color variations by border prints contained multitudinous stylish and tear-drop shape
patterns. Allover patterns contained colorful image and appeared in bold colors. (2)
60’s
Plate no.16, 60’s fashion. (Source: Tina ,1998)
20
Plate no.17 Integrate with butterfly. (Source: Skinner, 1998 p.59)
Plate no. 18 “Indigo resistant. (Source: interiorsonline.com)
21
Plate no. 19, 3D effect style. (Source: homeandfurnituregallery.com, 2008)
Plate no. 20, Overlaying style. (Source: Tumlr.com,2011)
22
Plate no. 21 Integrate with floral. (Source: Cheung Kong company)
Plate no. 22 Dot as background
23
Plate no. 23, Pointillism
Plate no. 24 Water color effect from Jil Sander 2011. (Source:style.com, 2011)
24
Plate no. 25 Text elements. (Source:Etsy.com)
Plate no. 26, Figuration in Skelton pattern from Alexander Mcqueen.
25
Plate no. 27, Smudge style
Plate no. 28, Burned style. (Source:Earth Textile Limited,2015)
26
2.7 CURRENT SCENARIO
One of the most intriguing designs in the collection features the Paisley motif
superimposed on a cell-like structure almost reminiscent of Dutch wax textiles, and
could lead to wonderful reinterpretations that mixing maybe science-inspired prints and
Paisley motifs.
Plate no. 29, Paisley pattern by Ossie clark 1975
Paisley patterns are currently going through a revival: they appeared (in a floral mix with
elements borrowed from Hieronymus Bosch's works) in the dresses and short coats
included in Carven's Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection, but also in Givenchy's Resort
2013 Collection.
27
2010 Winter Olympics
In 2010 Winters Olympic, the uniform pants of the Azerbaijan contained an attractive
blue, red, green Paisley pattern, which was eye-catching and inspired the fashion
industry, even created a new trend of applying Paisley patterns on sport wear markets
(Answer.com 2015). (18)
Plate no. 30, 2010 winter Olympic uniform by Azerbaijan (source:
tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com)
28
Fashion Brand: Etro
A fashion brand Etro since 1981 had been featuring Paisley pattern on certain outfits in
each collection by a variety of unique design with interesting combination and
application on fabrics.
Plate no. 31, Etro paisley shoe (source: www.cafleurebon.com)
Plate no. 32, Etro shirt
29
Henna body art
Paisley patterns appear frequently in traditional Henna body art from India, and the
patterns represent great blessing luck, joy and health (Answer.com,2015). (18)
Plate no. 33, Henna paisley design
30
Jewellery
Plate no. 34, Contemporary metal necklace features a paisley design etched onto a
piece of brass then cut into a chevron shape.
(http://www.etsy.com/listing/129484921/brass-chevron-necklace-etched-brass)
Plate no. 35, Silver Tone Paisley Design Metal Pendant Women Indian Fashion
Jewellery Gift (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silver-Tone-Paisley-Design-Metal-PendantWomen-Indian-Fashion-Jewelry-Gift/321067575892?pt=Fashion_Jewelry&hash=item4ac11e6a54)
31
Plate no. 36, Contemporary earrings paisley inspired design (source: www.voylla.com)
Plate no. 37, Paisley neckpiece (source: the hindu)
32
Plate no. 38, Contemporary Metal Table with Unique Design for Home Furnishings by
Lazy Susan (http://www.coolenevada.com/)
Plate no. 39, Massive Paisley by carl Hansen & son
(http://www.maharamshellchairproject.com/chair.html)
33
plate no. 40, One porcelain Mug paisley design, (http://www.solavia.co.uk/oneporcelain-mug-paisley-design-xxl-mug-450-ml-giftpresentation-box-64-p.asp)
Plate no. 41, Contemporary porcelain Dinner set http://www.wayfair.com/contemporaryporcelain-dinnerware-set-th.html)
34
Plate no. 42,Contemporary Paisley candle holder, (http://furnitureandhomefashion.com/)
Plate no. 43 Phone case paisley pattern
print purple yellow pink trendy cover.
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIPLE-CIPHONE-5-CASE-PAISLEY-PATTERNPRINT-PURPLE-YELLOW-PINK-TRENDYCOVER-/350773090743)
35
Plate no.44, Christine Donehue - Paper Filigree, Friday, April 30, 2010
(http://www.allthingspaper.net/)
Plate no.45, Clarks Desert paisley Boot (http://www.thisnext.com/)
36
2.8 Use of paisley motif by designers and brands
Designer work
The designer's interpretation of a gypsy and travelling nomadic woman's wardrobe (a
concept Riccardo Tisci then expanded in the elaborate shawl-like beaded and fringed
evening gowns in Givenchy's Autumn/Winter 2012-13 Haute Couture collection) and
included designs in silk red and blue paisley prints mixed with graphic black and white
geometric figures reminiscent of the formal images of the Bauhaus.
Plate no.46, Givenchy's Autumn/Winter 201213 Haute Couture collection
37
Givenchy collection on paisley
Plate no.47 The Seventies staple was all over the runways in Paris. March 9, 2011
10:30 AM by Veronique Hyland (http://www.harpersbazaar.com/archives/bazaarblog/by_tag/chloe/)
38
Plate no. 48 Lakme fashion week, Left:: Yacht rock: Stripes with vivid paisley dress,
Right: Sophis-cadelic: A bold PPQ logo was injected with a vivid techno paisley
design (http://fashion.fernmitchell.com/london-yacht-rock-ppq-2/
Plate no. 49, ODF Clothing – Simplicity is
Royalty 2013,The new 2013 collection from
brand ODF December 29, 2012
(http://pausemag.co.uk/?p=7628)
39
Plate no. 50 Hyde Park Polo club competition 2013
(http://www.equestrianstylist.com/polo-style-at-hyde-park-farm-and-polo-club/)
Indian Designer – Manish Malhotra
Plate no.51, Manish Malhotra paisley design
40
Tarun Tahiliani
Plate no. 52 Tarun tahiliani wedding collection
After the contemporization of paisley motif many designers and different brands used
and experiment with this motif by trying out different layouts, different placements and
color combinations. Paisley is the new floral print, and with so many new and notable
ways to wear this psychedelic pattern, it's easy to see why fashion fandom is already
ensuing. Available in fantastic color combos and emblazoned on everything from silky
trousers to cool kicks to chic pencil skirts, a handful of heavyweight designers and
stylish celebs are rendering this bohemian-inspired motif a modern must-have! Not only
is this easy-to-wear print a fitting choice for the remaining summer months, it will also
transition seamlessly into fall.
41
On The Runway
Solidifying its position as the season's new must-have pattern, paisley was the premiere
print on a plethora of spring runways by Jil Sander, Matthew Williamson, Emilio Pucci,
and Stella McCartney, The British designer's head-to-toe use of the swirling motif made
for a wonderfully bold outcome, especially when a sleeveless top was paired with
matching cropped pants. While either the top or trousers would certainly make a
statement on their own, together this tailored combination offers an exciting and
polished way to wear this look.
On Celebrities
Off the runway, fashionable femmes have been quick to gravitate towards paisley too.
Miranda Kerr incorporated the print lover into her repertoire with Stella McCartney's
adorable Ink Stretch Paisley Print Bellamy Shorts ($389) teamed with Equipment's
Sleeveless Signature Blouse ($178) and strappy yellow sandals for an effortlessly chic,
summer-in-the-city outfit. Girls star Zosia Mamet stepped out for the People after-party
wearing a casually cool ensemble consisting of a white tee, which she tied up in knot,
high-waisted paisley trousers, and chunky platforms. Stella McCartney S/S 12 dress
Solange Knowles wore in designer's Resort 13 presentation in New York, as the paisley
frock was a playfully chic choice befitting the alfresco event.
42
In magazines
Plate no. 53 In vogue magazine for zara, judari, miu miu, kate spade
43
Plate no. 54 Emilio Pucci, famed for its swirls of pattern, updated its signature print for
spring/summer 2012, splashing it across billowing skirts of mismatched and psychedelic
paisley ranging from turquoise and lime to pink and scarlet.
Findings
The outcome of the study proves that paisley motif is really a very popular design, which
is being explored in each and every category of design. Which also supports that it will
be a part of upcoming trends and will be used by different designers and brands in
future.
44
2.9 Study on method and tool for creating paisley motif
The Golden Ratio
There's a common mathematical ratio found in nature that can be used to create
pleasing, natural looking compositions in your design work. We call it the Golden Ratio,
although it's also known as the Golden Mean, The Golden Section, or the Greek letter
Phi.
Based on the Fibonacci, the Golden Ratio describes the relationship between two
proportions. Fibonacci numbers, like many elements found in nature, follow a 1:1.61
ratio - this is what refers as the Golden Ratio, and as it forms such a common sight in
nature, it feels pleasing to the eye when it is used in any design work.
Plate no. 55, The Golden Ratio is the relationship between two numbers on the
Fibonacci sequence.
45
Plate no. 56, plotting the relationships in scale
It's believed that the Golden Ratio has been in use for at least 4,000 years in
human art and design, but it may be even longer than that - some people argue
that the Ancient Egyptians used the principle to build the pyramids. In more
contemporary times, the Golden Ratio can be observed in music, art, and design
all around.
46
Golden ratio and paisley motif
Plate no. 57Plotting of paisley motif on golden scale
Therefore it is proven from this study that Paisley motif is balanced design as its being
examined through the golden ratio.
47
The findings of previous study supports that it is a well proportionated design and that’s
the reason for its existent demand and also it is a very popular motif and will be used in
future, therefore it is important to study different method and tools used by people to
create this motif.
There are different method and tools used by designers and artists to create this motif,
which are:




Digital media
Free hand drawing
Tracing
Other tools – curve ruler, French curve, compass.
2.9.1 Digital media
Digital media is the most convenient technique to create anything. But there are pros
and cons involved with every design. Digital media such as software, digitizer, etc.
requires skills for its utilization and also proper time and practice to create something.
Different creating software like coral draw and adobe illustrator can be used to create
motif like paisley.
Plate no. 58, a paisley motif
created in coral draw
Cons:
Pos:




Plate no. 59, paisley motif created in adobe
illustrator

Advance technology
Easy to edit
Can be saved for future use
Easy to share.


48
Requires skills to create
something
Time consuming
Knowledge of English language
required
2.9.2 Free hand drawing
It is a style of drawing made without the use of guiding or measuring instruments, as
distinguished from mechanical or geometrical drawing; also, a drawing thus executed.
Free hand drawing is the easiest and experimental method explored by artists and
designers from older ages and therefore still being used by everyone to create
something new. Even something to be created on software is first tried out on paper
with free hand drawing and also modification of design is easy through hands.
Plate no. 60, a hand drawn paisley motif
Pros:



Exploration is more as compared to other methods.
Limited resources required
Less time consuming
Cons:





Skills required
Difficult to save for future use
Knowledge of sketching is required
Difficult to achieve exact repeat
Digital conversion is difficult even after scanning.
49
2.9.3 Tracing
A reproduction made by superimposing a transparent sheet and copying the lines of the
original on it. A drawing created by superimposing a semitransparent sheet of paper on
the original image and copying on it the lines of the original image.
Necessity frequently arises for transferring outlines, etc., from one surface to another,
as, for instance, from a pencil drawing on absorbent paper to a less absorbent paper
suitable for pen drawings. For such a purpose, a thin sheet of firm paper with a surface
that is not too smooth should be provided. This sheet can be made into fairly permanent
transfer-paper by spreading over one side with any dry pigment, such as powdered
indigo, red chalk, or the scrapings from the point of a pencil. Another way is by a
rubbing movement of the side of a soft pencil of any color. The entire surface of the
paper should he covered. Whichever method is used, the surface should he blended by
"stumping" or rubbing gently with the finger or a soft rag. Place this prepared paper with
the colored side down on the blank paper that is to receive the copy. Over the former
place the drawings from which the lines are to be transferred. Next take a stylus or
sharp-pointed hard pencil—if a pencil, the harder the better—and trace over the lines
that are to be repeated or transferred on the white paper below.
Plate no. 61 Tracing paper and tracing technique
Cons:
Pros:




Can be easily copied from
the exact original design.
Fastest medium to do replica
Can be reused

50
Can only convert a 2D design
to 2D, not 3D to 2D.
Time consuming
2.9.4 Other tools
Curve ruler
A spline or the more modern term flexible curve consists of a long strip fixed in position
at a number of points that relaxes to form and hold a smooth curve passing through
those points for the purpose of transferring that curve to another material. Before
computers were used for creating engineering designs, drafting tools were employed by
designers drawing by hand. To draw curves, especially for shipbuilding, draftsmen often
used long, thin, flexible strips of wood, plastic, or metal called splines. The splines were
held in place with lead weights. The elasticity of the spline material combined with the
constraint of the control points, or knots, would cause the strip to take the shape that
minimized the energy required for bending it between the fixed points, this being the
smoothest possible shape.
Plate no. 62, A flexible curve ruler
Pros:,



As it is flexible, one can easily modify design
Easy to carry
Size can be easily measured.
Cons:




Only big designs are possible
Difficult to get same shape again
Difficult to understand its application
Time consuming
51
French curve
A French curve is a template made out of metal, wood or plastic composed of many
different curves. It is used in manual drafting to draw smooth curves of varying radii.
The curve is placed on the drawing material, and a pencil, knife or other implement is
traced around its curves to produce the desired result.
Plate no. 63, French curve
Pros:



Easy to draw curve
Available in different sizes and shapes
Easily available in market
Cons:



Only curve can be made, other half has to be drawn free hand.
Time consuming
More visualization required
Compass
A compass is a technical drawing instrument that can be used for inscribing circles or
arcs. As dividers, they can also be used as tools to measure distances, in particular on
maps. Compasses can be used for mathematics, drafting, navigation, and other
purposes. Compasses are usually made of metal or plastic, and consist of two parts
connected by a hinge which can be adjusted to allow the changing of the radius of the
circle drawn. Typically one part has a spike at its end, and the other part a pencil, or
sometimes a pen.
52
Plate no. 64, the compass
Pros:



Easily available in market
Only outline can be made like an arc
Skills required to use it
Cons:



Only one style of paisley can be made
Time consuming
Leaves pointed marks on sheet
2.9.5 Findings
The above study was about different tools and techniques used to create paisley motif
by now. But with those, pros and cons are also involved. Which helped in suggestion for
final design which is less time consuming, which requires less skills, from which
different sizes and shapes oF paisley motif can be made.
53
PHASE 2
Chapter 3 PRIMARY DATA COLLECTION
A questionnaire was prepared with the aim of understanding how young
designers view innovation in the paisley motif. This was personally administered
to 100 respondents, belonging to the 18 – 25 year age group who were all
selected from the textile design department of design institution. The data that
was collected was tabulated
The objective of the research was to firstly understanding how young designers view
innovation in the paisley motif.
The second objective was to identify problems faced by designers while drawing the
paisley motif and seek a solution for the same.
This was personally administered to 100 respondents, belonging to the 18 – 25 year
age group who were all selected from the textile design department of design institution.
Questions addressed awareness of paisley motif, problem in drawing it and reason
behind it, use of different external tools to draw out curve and need for designing
template for easy drawing. Quantitative research allows for a rich understanding of the
topics of inquiry, and can aid in providing a better understanding of the reasons and
motivations behind the choices made by a given population. Therefore, it becomes a
right tool to identify problems for identifying the design criteria. The subjects were
contacted through different design institutions and meeting personally to the textile
design department. The questions were asked through questionnaire and distributed to
all students from textile background. The aim of the questionnaire was to find out the
problem faced by them during their work while they use paisley motif.
3.1 Tools for data collection
Quantitative data collection through questionnaire, video and observation.
3.2 Instrument development
Questionnaire: Data was gathered using questionnaire developed by the researcher.
The questionnaire consisted of a set of questions of different types namely dichotomous
questions which the respondents chose one of the two answers, multiple choice
questions and open ended questions.
3.3 Sample selection
Subjects selected were young designers from textile design background aged 18-28
years from different design colleges – NIFT and NID and also fresh graduates who has
recently commenced practice.
54
3.4 Geographical area
The survey was administered in person in Mumbai, Ahmedabad and Gandhinagar, at
the institutes, hostels and homes of participants.
PHASE 3
3.5 Analysis of survey
After the questionnaire was administered to the entire sample, the data was tabulated
and analyzed and made into pie charts for easy understanding.
3.5.1 Awareness about paisley motif
0%
2%
yes
no
98%
In response to the question regarding their awareness of a paisley designs, 98%
responded in the affirmative.
3.5.2 Awareness about origin of paisley motif
20%
France
5%
India
China
50%
25%
0%
Persia
Scoltland
For the question reading the origin of the paisley motif , 50% answered that it was
originally from India while 25% responded that it is from Persia followed by 20% from
Scotland and 5% from France. None of the respondents gave China as the place of
origin.
3.5.3 Season to associate with paisley motif
55
1%
26%
21%
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
52%
Another question asked was whether the respondents associated any season with this
motif. According to 52 %, Summer was the season they associated with the paisley
motif, while 26% were of the opinion that it is Fall, 21% responded spring while 1% only
gave Winter as the season associated with the paisley. This appeared a little unusual as
shawls very often have paisley motifs on them
3.5.4 Products owned of paisley motif
3%
Yes
No
97%
To know whether this motif is popular amongst the respondents, the respondents were
asked whether they possessed any product with paisley motifs. It was no surprise that
97% responded that that have products with the paisley motif on it.
3.5.5 Paisley motif in different fashion categories
56
8%
3%
9%
Interior design
Graphic design
Fashion design
56%
24%
Textile design
All
When a question regarding the usage of this motif in different categories was asked,
56% were of the opinion that it is used in all categories. 24% were of the opinion that it
is used in textiles, 9% of the respondents said that it is used in fashion design, followed
by 8%interior design and only 3% thought it was used in graphic design.
3.5.6 Use of paisley motif at workplace
5%
Yes
No
95%
When a question regarding usage of paisley motif in the work was asked, 95%
respondents said they often use this motif in their projects
Regarding difficulty in drawing this motif 50% of respondents said no and 30% yes.20%
were unsure.
PHASE 4 – PROBLEM IDENTIFICATION
57
3.5.7 Doodling of paisley motif
The respondents were asked to quickly doodle a paisley. Although 50% had earlier
said that they do not face any problem’ at the time of doodling the paisley motif, it was
seen that they were unable to do it easily. (some examples in Annexure II)
3.5.8 Difficulty in drawing paisley motif
Because of its intricate
design
1%10%
0%
Because it has so many
curves
because it is very absract
Any other
89%
The respondents who opined that the motif is difficult to draw was asked why they
found it difficult.89% were of the opinion that the motif has too many curves which
makes it difficult to draw it.
3.5.9 External tool to draw paisley motif
37%
Yes
No
63%
Next the respondents were asked whether they use any tool for drawing paisley motifs
;63% responded that they do not use any tool, while 37% stated that they did use tools
such as the French curve and curve ruler when they drew larger paisley motifs.
58
3.5.10 interest in having a DIY kit for drawing paisley motif
3%
Yes
No
97%
Finally the respondents were asked whether they would like to have a tool kit which
would enable them to draw the paisley motif easily.
When the data was analysed, it was gratifying to note that 97% of the respondents
showed interest in possessing templates/stencils that would simplify drawing of paisley
motifs.
3.6 Findings of the survey
It was found through the questionnaire that designers faced problem in drawing paisley
motif. Which leads towards designing a problem solving template which helps the young
artists to experiment more in terms of paisley motif. Most of the respondents were
aware about the paisley motif and its origin. Respondents expressed a problem while
drawing paisley motif in doodling part of questionnaire. External drawing tools like
French curve and curve ruler were being used by the respondents while drawing
curves. As being textile designers, paisley motif is often used by the respondents in
their work and projects which supports the need for al tool to solve the problem.
59
PHASE 5
CHAPTER 4 Design development
After studying the problems and importance of paisley motif by the designers, few
design solutions are suggested to overcome those problems.
4.1 Studying a perfect paisley
A study to analyze a paisley motif has typical ratio and balance with its shape. Firstly,
the design exploration started with analyzing a perfect paisley.
Plate no. 65, Paisley motif analysis from Frank ames
Analysis the paisley motif on to graph paper helped in understanding the ratio of width
and height of a perfect paisley and helped in creating templates to simplify drawing
paisley motif.
60
4.2 Studying problems by beginner artists
Drawing is a form of visual art in which a person uses various drawing instruments to
mark paper or another two-dimensional medium. Instruments include graphite pencils,
pen and ink, inked brushes, wax color pencils, crayons, charcoal, chalk, pastels, various
kinds of erasers, markers, styluses, various metals, and electronic drawing. An artist
who practices or works in technical drawing may be called a drafter or draftsman or
draughtsman. A drawing instrument releases small amount of material onto a surface,
leaving a visible mark. The most common support for drawing is paper, although other
materials, such as cardboard, plastic, leather, canvas, and board, may be used.
Temporary drawings may be made on a blackboard or whiteboard or indeed almost
anything. The medium has been a popular and fundamental means of public expression
throughout human history. It is one of the simplest and most efficient means of
communicating visual ideas. The wide availability of drawing instruments makes
drawing one of the most common artistic activities. As it is a very important thing for an
artist, it is also important to study the problems related to it. One of which is drawing
curve lines. Beginner artists initially face problem in creating curve lines because of lace
of skills and knowledge. A study to prove that it is a problem face by mass helped in
taking the project ahead.
Plate no. 66 The big book of realistic drawing secrets
The big book of realistic drawing secrets: easy techniques for drawing By Carrie Stuart
Parks, Rick Parks says, out of 100 beginner artists 64 face problem in drawing curves. It
is case study which helped in verifying the data collected and also to understand the
problem in a better way.
61
4.3 Design development process
Final design is a “Do it yourself paisley drawing kit” which includes 6 different tools for
easy drawing paisley motif.
Template 1
This template has been inspired by French curve which is a tool used by fashion design
students and designers to draw curves during pattern making. Design 1 named paisley
curve is a tool to draw 6 different styles of paisley motif.
Plate no. 67 a design exploration
62
6
5
2
3
1
4
Final template 1
Template 2
It is a stencil, which can help in making 12 different sizes of a perfect paisley.
template 2
63
Template 3
It is stencil which measures 8 inches X 4 inches. Easy to carry and use. Like other
stencils to draw out geometrical shapes like square, hexagone and pentagone, this also
works the same. It has 6 different sizes of perfect paisley motif. Can also be used from
the other side to draw out other side facing paisley.
template 3
64
Template 4
This is also a type of stencil for drawing paisley. Stencil size is 8 inches X 3 inch
template 4
65
CHAPTER 5 CONCLUSION, LIMITATION AND RECOMMENDATIONS
CONCLUSION
Being a designer or artist it is really important to draw the basic shape for better
exploration. This study helped to design a solution for easy drawing for this motif.
Textile designers often use this motif in their work, and they face problem while making
repeats. This product kit will solve the problem, also it is less time consuming and
availability of different styles, shape and size of paisley motif. Designing a template to
create paisley motif is the easiest way to solve the problem identified. The DIY tool kit
consist of 6 different tools made out of 30 mm acrylic sheet to easy and quick making of
paisley motif. The stencils are kept transparent, to help in making repeats. And also size
of the stencil is not more than 10” keeping in mind easy handling of the product.
LIMITATION
This research is only limited for textile design students.
Paisley motif has already been experimented by many designers and brands and
therefore had really less scope for new innovation.
66
CHAPTER 6 REFERENCES
1. Ames,F.(1989). The official Illustrated History of the Paisley Pattern, Shawl
Production’, p.15,’Guide to Paisley Shawls’, pp.89-99.
2. Bowles and Issac,(2009) Textile design.
3. G.,(2002). Victorian Paisley Shawls.
4. Ed, R.(1980). The Art of Paisley.,p.33, 39 84, 89, 99, 116, 119.
5. Frank, A., (1986). The Kashmir Shawl. Classification of the Kashmir Shawl,
pp.16-35.
6. Frank, A.,(1997). The Kashmir Shawl And Its Indo-French Influence.
Classification of the Kashmir Shawl, pp.81-118.
7. Gadsby,S., (2002). Victorian Paisley Shawls ‘Brief history’ pp.11-13
8. Gill. B, 2009. Words into picture, Lewis Carroll's The Mouse's Tale from Alice's
Adventures in Wonderland in 1865, p.8, p.9, Guillaume Apolinaire, the French
Dadaist Calligrammes with the publication of 2 Pleut. p.107 a poster detail).
9. Janet, R. & Monisha, A., (2009. ) Pashmina The Kashmir shawl and beyond.
10. Prakash, K. (2003). Textile designs: traditional & floral, Linda, P., (1993). The
Victoria & Albert Museum’s textile collection, British textile from 1850 to 1900,p.
97. Susan, M. & Joost, E., (1991). Textile Design. Two hundred year of European
and American pattern for printed fabric organized by motif, style, color, layout
and period 1,823 illustration in color, pp.390-399.
11. Tina, S., (1998). Paisley: A visual survey of pattern and color variations.
Illustrated Guide Showing the Development of Kashmir Shawl Pattern from the
17th to the 19th Centunry., pp.265-347.
12. Shoin K. ‘World Textile Collections 8, Paisley & Sarasa Skinner. T, 1998. Paisley
A Visual Survey of Pattern and Colour Variation, p.5, 27, 41, 53, 59).
13. The tree of life design from central asia to navajoland and back(with mexico
detour) by Sandra busatta
14. Kashmir to paisley- The metropolitan museum of art.
15. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/60s-clothes.html
16. Azerbaijan has won the war of pants February 19, 11:23 2010
http://www.extratime.az/article.php?aid=11817
67
17. http://www.meg-andrews.com/articles/shawls_paisley_design
18. The Kashmir Shawl and its indo- French influence. By- Frank Ames
19. www.answers.com
20. http://www.designsponge.com/2010/04/past-present-paisley_part1.html
21. http://www.irenebrination.typepad.com/irenebrination_notes_on_a/2012/07/paisle
y_pattern.html
22. http://www.kashmircompany.com/blog/kashmir-paisley-shawl-and-her-enduringcontribution-to-the-paisley-shawl/
23. http://www.meg-andrews.com
24. http://www.squidoo.com/60s-style-paisley-necktie-designs#module167964653
25. http://www.thistleandbroom.com/scotland/paisley.htm
26. http://www.threadsofhistory.blogspot.in/2009/09/paisley-visual-history.html
27. http://www.wisegreek.com/where-did-paisley-print-come-from.html
28. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etro
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ANNEXURE I
Questions
1. What is your name?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2. What is your profession?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------3. Do you know what Paisley motif is?
□ Yes
□ Not sure
□ Not at all
4. Where does it come from?
□
□
□
□
□
France
India
China
Persia
Scotland
5. Which season will you associate Paisley motif with?
□
□
□
□
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
6. Do you own any products in Paisley motif?
□ Yes.
□ No.
7. Where could you find Paisley motif the most?
□
□
□
□
□
Interior design
Graphic design
Apparels
Textile design
All
8. Do you use paisley motif more often in your work?
69
□ Yes
□ No
9. If yes, then do you think this motif is difficult to draw?
□ Yes
□ No
□ Maybe
10. Can you please doodle one paisley motif?
11. If you find it difficult to draw, then what you think is the reason behind it?
□
□
□
□
Because of its intricate look
Because it has so many curvy lines
Because it is a very abstract design
Any other
_______________________________________________________________
12. Do you use any kind of external tool or accessory to draw a paisley? If yes, then
specify what.
□ Yes_____________________________________________________________
________
□ No
13. Are you interested in having a “Do it yourself Paisley kit” which makes easy to draw
paisley motif for your work?
□ Yes
□ No
70
ANNEXURE II
Doodles of paisley motif on questionnaire
71
ANNEXURE III
Sketches explored for final design
72
73
74