trends guide

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trends guide
ArsSutoria
trends guide
shoes & bags a/w 14-15
rock the grunge
asian flow
mash-up
american
the gourmet
on
le
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sam
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This brochure is a sample copy of the Trends Guide, created for a short
presentation on the project and the contents of the complete book.
The Ars Sutoria Trends Guide is specifically developed for designers and
merchandisers who have to create collections in the field of shoes & bags.
The typical workflow of a company has to deal not only with creativity and
trends but also with marketing, merchandising and technical development.
Thanks to the connection between the publishing house and the Ars Sutoria
School we are in the conditions to offer a unique tool.
This publication is issued twice a year: in January and June.
January
Spring/Summer
June
Autumn/Winter
For more information and to get your copy: [email protected]
order online: www.arsarpel.com/books
CONTENT OF THE BOOK
Four major trends on worldwide lifestyle, deeply analyzed offering unique
insights and ideas. Each trends is divided in three sections:
CONCEPT: This first section presents and introduces the inspirational and
creative trend themes.
It explains the main basic concepts of the theme and then specifies the key
colours and the proportions in which they will be used. Images introduce the
atmosphere of the trend, together with materials and a selection of iconic
shoes and bags.
CONSUMER PROFILE: This section is intended to focus the market positioning
of the collection. Each trend is more related to a specific consumer profile.
We identify the target consumer of each trend looking at: where he lives,
what he likes to do during his free time, which are the opinion leaders he
follows, what retails concepts he likes more, which goods he desires to buy,
websites he surfs, music he listen to. At the end of the section you can find
a list of brands that can be analyzed as competitors or reference brands.
COLLECTION PLANNING: The first question to be answered at this point
– always considering that the collection will be created inside a company –
concerns the investments in the development of new structures/materials.
This means understanding, for each of the four trends, whether to focus more
on investing in structures (designs of new soles and heels with consequent
mould opening, etc.) or to focus more on purchasing new materials for
“dressing up” the existing products in order to enliven the collection.
MERCHANDISING THE TREND: to better illustrate the key structures
or materials, we have selected a range of sample shoes and bags,
highlighting the most commercially viable brands.
Photos can be easily found on arstrends.com website, a footwear
and leathergoods overview.
SKETCHING THE TREND: the work ends with a real stylistic
proposal, a sample collection of designs with structured themes
and balanced offering of the most conceptual and refined ideas,
as well as simpler and more commercial products.
MATERIALS FOR THE TREND: close to the sketches, we have
provided material references from Italian suppliers. A final section
recaps materials and components that best match each trend.
FREE TIME
WHAT THEY LOVE
OPINION LEADERS
WHERE THEY LIVE
consumer profile
Joe Sorren
Formichetti
Meeting of cosplayers in Harajuku
Milan Manga Festival
moodboard
Mash-Up
Concept
Picking out and superimposing a mix of cultures. Aesthetic styles
typical of the last century, between rustic and Japanese pop.
Unconventional enough to become an icon of contemporary
trash. A new Urban Folk, full of popular and artistic references
that dictated the styles of the XX Century. From retro design
to pop art. The new artistic currents turn to contemporary pop,
graphic and colourful, natural and organic.
Colours
Colour palettes that underline a surreal taste to combine
unusual tones. Orange and green. Chocolate and neon yellow.
Turquoise and shocking pink. Lime and lipstick red. Black and
black. Military green and burgundy.
The entire color palette and color combination with Pantone® references is available in
the Trends Guide complete book.
key words
Materials
Rich materials, rustic materials. Gold fabrics, geometrical
printed designs, tapestry in natural fibres. Nylon, rubber,
polyurethane, high-frequency finishes. Painted studs, tarnished
metals. Chains of polished wood, gunmetal rings. Dyed furs
in shades of colour. Patchwork for new generation matelassé
kilting. Flock effect on experimental materials. Wool, complex
jacquard, treated leathers. Appliqué and embroidery.
TROPICAL + VINTAGE
GLAMOUR + FOLK
POPULAR CULTURE + THEATRICAL
ORNAMENTALE + RUSTICO
SYMBOLS + PATTERN MATCHING
CASUAL + DECOR MESH
FRESH MASH + STYLE LOOK
ART + XX CENTURY TRASH
re s e a rc h t e a m
collection planning
SHOES: trend positioning according to the outsole
BAGS: trend positioning according to material
Sketching proposals & materials suggestions
DIMAR CONCERIA
vibram
1
1
SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI
1
2
2
SCHMID ITALY
1
collection planning
1
CERTALDESE
1
SCHMID ITALY
1
1
APLASA
1
1
moodboard
MUSIC
WHERE THEY LIVE
Royksopp, Norwegian electronic group
Reel Shanghai
3D Design Studio
RETAIL
WHAT THEY LOVE
consumer profile
Hong Kong Cosbay Bay. Contemporary landscape
American
Asian Flow
Concept
New metropolitan daywear has an American/Asian feel. The
leader is Alexander Wang, followed by Thakoon Panichgul,
Prabal Gurung, Phillip Lim and Derek Lam. This style falls into
the market segment called “contemporary”. It’s functional,
smart, technological, androgynous. The new Asian creators
who have grown up in the US dictate fresh rules in American
and European dress. They design pragmatic products of
excellent quality/price ratio, starting from models proven on
the market which they elaborate with innovative details.
Colours
Salable and primary tones. Matt black, shiny burgundy,
mirrored petrol blue, bitter chocolate, steel blue, dry sand
beige, mink brown, orange tan. Full and bold colours.
The entire color palette and color combination with Pantone® references is available
in the Trends Guide complete book.
key words
Materials
Synthetics, innovative, high performance, futuristic,
substantial. Thick but lightweight. Bonded and double-face.
Punching together with nylon and nappa. Brushed leather
and crisp nylon. Skins and synthetics characterized by
finishes of perfect precision.
URBAN DAILY WEAR
CONTEMPORARY LOOKS
PRAGMATICO + PRATICO
FUNZIONALE + INNOVATIVO
ANDROGINO + GLOBALISMO
TAILOR + INNOVATIVO
CASUALLY COOL DOWNTOWN STYLE
EDGY MASCULINITY + KINETIC WEAR
re s e a rc h t e a m
collection planning
SHOES: trend positioning according to the outsole
BAGS: trend positioning according to material
Sketching proposals & materials suggestions
1
MASTROTTO CONCERIA
VIBRAM
2
2
1
MASTROTTO CONCERIA
1
2
1
MORO MINUTERIE
2
collection planning
aplasa
1
1
OFFICINA DELLE PELLI
2
MASTROTTO CONCERIA
1
2
1
OPINION LEADERS
WHERE THEY LIVE
moodboard
MUSIC
Marilyn Manson.
Transgressive rock icon
RETAIL
consumer profile
Friedrichshain, Berlin.
Post-industrial graffiti art
The Killers
Humana
Rock
the grunge
Concept
The new rock is subversive because it combines wild and
rebellious grunge with the minimalism of English classics.
A style direction taken by the new generation of designers led
by Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Givenchy, Balmain. Starting from
typical icons of the English rock world, strict and minimal, the
new rock becomes elegant and classical, austere and severe.
Colours
Tar black is rock. Leather brown is grunge, blood-red English,
psychedelic blue is rock. Tones darken in all the colour palettes,
taking on mirror, reflective, polished, velvety, shaded effects.
The entire color palette and color combination with Pantone® references is available in
the Trends Guide complete book.
key words
Materials
The rock+grunge+minimal+English classic ingredients are
expressed in a mixture of leather treatments: destroyed +
brushed + patent, craquelet + filled + pony, shaved + waxed
- laser processes. Perforated effects on thin rigid hide. Fluid
nappa. Crocodile of raised scales. Rock version fish skin.
Brushed, varnished and reflective in tones and the consistency
of tar. Worn and torn effects. Crusts moulded with dry wax and
powdery shades.
MINIMAL + ROCK
ANARCHY + ELEGANCE
SUBVERSIVE + CLASSIC ENGLISH
SELVAGGIO E SEVERO
SOCIALITE + EXTROVERSO
CHAOS TO COUTURE
AUSTERITÀ MISTA A PERVERSIONE
RIGORE E CONFIDENCE
re s e a rc h t e a m
collection planning
SHOES: trend positioning according to the outsole
BAGS: trend positioning according to material
1
1
M.P.G. CUOIFICIO
MASTROTTO CONCERIA
Sketching proposals & materials suggestions
1
1
collection planning
1
ITALIANA ACCESSORI
1
ATTILIO IMPERIALI
MONTI & MONTI
1
1
1
1
WHERE THEY LIVE
FREE TIME
moodboard
Modern Art of Dessert
RETAIL
Milan, Arco della Pace, vintage photo with tram
WHAT THEY LOVE
consumer profile
Franciacorta Wine Festival, Piedmont, Italy
Fangsuo Commune, Guanzhou
The gourmet
Concept
A gourmet, as we know, is a person of cultivated tastes who
demands the enjoyment of good food and drink. The gourmet
of fashion, like that of food, is a connoisseur, a person who
has the foundation of classical style, then carried through to
Italian country and English heritage. As for food, the passion
for accessories is defined by a search for tastes and flavours
that are intense, sharp, full bodied. A lifestyle that combines a
passion for the authentic, genuine, typical of a place or a style.
Colours
The chromatic effects form a range of browns, fresh and
new. These can verge on red, burnt orange, indigo blue,
military green, woodland earth and bark of scented trees.
The shades can vary according to dyes and treatments of
full bodied leathers.
The entire color palette and color combination with Pantone® references is available in
the Trends Guide complete book.
key words
Materials
Real leather, authentic and genuine, on which to try out
experimental treatments and invent new finishes, chromatic
effects and grains. Craftsmanship and industry meet in the
natural world to experiment with shaving, abrasion, creams
and waxes of new generation but of organic origin. Brushed,
crackled, distressed. Shaved and polished pony. Precious
reptiles. Anaconda and alligator treated with softening oils
and waxes. Thick and luminous velvets. Wool, cashmere and
Shetland materials. Colour-dipped crust.
BOHEMIEN + HYPSTER
CONNOSSEUR + CHARACTER
INNOVATIVE + OLD TASTE
WILDERNES + SAVOIR FAIRE
CLASSIC + CITY + COUNTRY
DESTRUTTURATO + RILASSATO
ICONE DEL CLASSICO + MADE IN
COMFORT TRAVEL + PLEASURE
re s e a rc h t e a m
collection planning
SHOES: trend positioning according to the outsole
BAGS: trend positioning according to material
CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY
Sketching proposals & materials suggestions
1
1
1
DIMAR CONCERIA
1
collection planning
2
1
CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY
1
E.M. COMPANY
2
1
1
M.P.G. CUOIFICIO
CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY
1
1
CONTAct Subscription Department
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books
Trends Guide
Created by Ars Sutoria Research Team.
Binding book with concepts, key words, colours palette, colour combinations, materials, merchandising plan and design ideas for the development of new footwear and leathergoods collections.
Available for each season, 18 months in advance.
ONE SEASON
500 €
TWO SEASONS
800 €
Only Woman
& Only Man
Technical
Dictionary
Over 200 pages of shoes collections
presented for each season on fairs, catwalks, people and windows that we have
selected from our Ars Sutoria magazines.
Hard cover book to keep in your library.
One issue published for Spring Summer
and one for Autumn Winter.
Illustrated dictionary with
each term in five languages
(English, Italian, Spanish,
German and French).
ONE SEASON
150 €
TWO SEASONS
250 €
price
120 €
online
arstrends.com
Best selection of images from most important cities of fashion
Shoes, bags and materials from fairs, windows, people and catwalks
Browse, organize and share images
Contact us [email protected]
1 YEAR
SHOES ACCESS
499 €
BAGS ACCESS
299 €
SHOES+BAGS ACCESS
599 €
*all subscriptions include material section
CONTActs Mrs. Rossella Cucco
T +39 02 31912.327 [email protected]
www.arssutoria.com
school
FOOTWEAR
13 weeks
PATTERN MAKING AND
TECHNICAL DESIGN
This course includes the 1
week footwear manufacturing
processes introduction course
• Focus of the course is pattern
making techniques, explained in
depth. Styles covered include,
but they’re not limited to
Pumps, Ballerinas, Peep Toes,
T-Bar, Derby, Oxford, Loafer,
Sneakers, Sandals, Thong,
Ankle Boot, Low Boot, Boots
• Theoretical lessons on last
analysis and proportions, size
conversions, rules for pattern
1 week
FOOTWEAR
MANUFACTURING
PROCESSES
INTRODUCTION
A full immersion training session
to introduce our students
to the art of traditional shoe
making from the initial design,
to pattern making, to cutting,
nesting, assembling and
finishing stage of the footwear
production process giving
them some tips and tricks to
help save in cost. The foot,
last, upper, middle and bottom
components are analyzed in
depth with the help of samples
and detailed videos.
grading and nesting/cutting
• Sample manufacturing in a
shoe laboratory equipped
with a complete conveyor and
machines
• Final examination that include
a fit testing session of the
samples produced in the
laboratory
1 week
FOOTWEAR
SKETCHING
Objective of this course is
to teach students - both
experienced professionals or
beginners - the basics of shoe
sketching. Training program
includes, but it’s not limited to:
• Sketching from a real sample
• Technical drawing of the last
and bottom components
• Technical drawing of the shoe
• Preparation of the spec sheet
• Use of illustration software
2D CAD SEMINAR
(optional)
During the 13 week pattern
making class in the late
afternoon (after class lessons)
we organize a seminar on 2D
CAD. The objective of the
seminar is to put in practice
the pattern making working
method learned during the
traditional class with the aid of
a CAD system.
3 weeks
FOOTWEAR COLLECTION
DEVELOPMENT
In a highly competitive
environment such as today’s, it
is more important than ever to
organize collections that reach
their target customers and at the
same time are efficient in terms of
development and manufacturing.
• Marketing and trend analysis
• Merchandising plan
• Sketching of shoes and
components
• From merchandising plan
to product design
This course includes the 1 week
footwear sketching course
BAGS
4 weeks
PATTERN MAKING
The core of the course is pattern engineering, a topic which is
indispensable for both designers and technicians.
Topics covered during the 4 weeks course are:
• hard, soft, classical and sport bags, technical-design solutions
applied to more trendy models
• inserted sack type linings and stuck-on linings
• theories on different construction used in production
• ideas on types of leathers and reinforcing materials most widely used.
Prototypes are firstly assembled in cardboard using staples, then
with sample materials commonly used in the factories and at the
end of the program using production materials (leathers, textiles,
synthetics and fur).
international fashion footwear magazine
founded in 1947
editorial director
Matteo Pasca
executive editor
enrico martinelli
art director
francesco martini
editorial staff
emanuela cecchetti livia sismondi
Ars Sutoria Research Team
orietta pelizzari (concept research)
Elena Marradi (research assistant)
Milena Buttarello (marketing research)
materials creation
Alizee Saygun
Rana Feghaly
companies helping develop materials
KENDA FARBEN
VIBRAM
GRUPPO MASTROTTO
M.P.G. CUOIFICIO
CONSORZIO VERO CUOIO DI TOSCANA
DAVOS
GEA GOMMA
SHOE SERVICE
MARTAC
CARBI. PEL
public relation & communication
Mariella Catalano
[email protected]
sales coordinators
Oscar De Franceschi (Italy)
[email protected]
Stefano Migliavacca (Int’l)
[email protected] arsarpel.com
marketing
Giorgio Gori (Toscana)
[email protected]
Mario Gori (Marche)
[email protected]
Lorenzo Caresana (Lombardia-Veneto)
[email protected]
Natalie Spelge (Int’l)
[email protected]
Carlo Ambrogi (Int’l)
[email protected]
Poste Italiane Spa - Spedizione in abbonamento postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. In L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB Milano
Pubblicazione registrata presso il Tribunale di Milano al nu­mero 234 in data 10 Giugno 1966. Direttore Responsabile Matteo Pasca
© Copyright 1967 Stampa: ARS ARPEL GROUP Settimo Milanese
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whose address can be found either printed on his advertising page or, if this is not the case, in the end of the magazine.
Ai sensi dell’articolo 2 comma 2 del Codice di deontologia relativo al trattamento dei dati personali nell’esercizio dell’attività giornalistica, si rende nota l’esistenza di una banca-dati
personali di uso redazionale presso la sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33. Gli interessati potranno rivolgersi al responsabile del trattamento dei dati Ing. Matteo Pasca presso la
sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33,
per esercitare i diritti previsti dal D.L.GS. 30 giugno 2003, n.196
Ars Arpel Group 20145 Milano Italy via Nievo 33
www.arsarpel.com www.arstrends.com