trends guide
Transcription
trends guide
ArsSutoria trends guide shoes & bags a/w 14-15 rock the grunge asian flow mash-up american the gourmet on le p sam si r e v This brochure is a sample copy of the Trends Guide, created for a short presentation on the project and the contents of the complete book. The Ars Sutoria Trends Guide is specifically developed for designers and merchandisers who have to create collections in the field of shoes & bags. The typical workflow of a company has to deal not only with creativity and trends but also with marketing, merchandising and technical development. Thanks to the connection between the publishing house and the Ars Sutoria School we are in the conditions to offer a unique tool. This publication is issued twice a year: in January and June. January Spring/Summer June Autumn/Winter For more information and to get your copy: [email protected] order online: www.arsarpel.com/books CONTENT OF THE BOOK Four major trends on worldwide lifestyle, deeply analyzed offering unique insights and ideas. Each trends is divided in three sections: CONCEPT: This first section presents and introduces the inspirational and creative trend themes. It explains the main basic concepts of the theme and then specifies the key colours and the proportions in which they will be used. Images introduce the atmosphere of the trend, together with materials and a selection of iconic shoes and bags. CONSUMER PROFILE: This section is intended to focus the market positioning of the collection. Each trend is more related to a specific consumer profile. We identify the target consumer of each trend looking at: where he lives, what he likes to do during his free time, which are the opinion leaders he follows, what retails concepts he likes more, which goods he desires to buy, websites he surfs, music he listen to. At the end of the section you can find a list of brands that can be analyzed as competitors or reference brands. COLLECTION PLANNING: The first question to be answered at this point – always considering that the collection will be created inside a company – concerns the investments in the development of new structures/materials. This means understanding, for each of the four trends, whether to focus more on investing in structures (designs of new soles and heels with consequent mould opening, etc.) or to focus more on purchasing new materials for “dressing up” the existing products in order to enliven the collection. MERCHANDISING THE TREND: to better illustrate the key structures or materials, we have selected a range of sample shoes and bags, highlighting the most commercially viable brands. Photos can be easily found on arstrends.com website, a footwear and leathergoods overview. SKETCHING THE TREND: the work ends with a real stylistic proposal, a sample collection of designs with structured themes and balanced offering of the most conceptual and refined ideas, as well as simpler and more commercial products. MATERIALS FOR THE TREND: close to the sketches, we have provided material references from Italian suppliers. A final section recaps materials and components that best match each trend. FREE TIME WHAT THEY LOVE OPINION LEADERS WHERE THEY LIVE consumer profile Joe Sorren Formichetti Meeting of cosplayers in Harajuku Milan Manga Festival moodboard Mash-Up Concept Picking out and superimposing a mix of cultures. Aesthetic styles typical of the last century, between rustic and Japanese pop. Unconventional enough to become an icon of contemporary trash. A new Urban Folk, full of popular and artistic references that dictated the styles of the XX Century. From retro design to pop art. The new artistic currents turn to contemporary pop, graphic and colourful, natural and organic. Colours Colour palettes that underline a surreal taste to combine unusual tones. Orange and green. Chocolate and neon yellow. Turquoise and shocking pink. Lime and lipstick red. Black and black. Military green and burgundy. The entire color palette and color combination with Pantone® references is available in the Trends Guide complete book. key words Materials Rich materials, rustic materials. Gold fabrics, geometrical printed designs, tapestry in natural fibres. Nylon, rubber, polyurethane, high-frequency finishes. Painted studs, tarnished metals. Chains of polished wood, gunmetal rings. Dyed furs in shades of colour. Patchwork for new generation matelassé kilting. Flock effect on experimental materials. Wool, complex jacquard, treated leathers. Appliqué and embroidery. TROPICAL + VINTAGE GLAMOUR + FOLK POPULAR CULTURE + THEATRICAL ORNAMENTALE + RUSTICO SYMBOLS + PATTERN MATCHING CASUAL + DECOR MESH FRESH MASH + STYLE LOOK ART + XX CENTURY TRASH re s e a rc h t e a m collection planning SHOES: trend positioning according to the outsole BAGS: trend positioning according to material Sketching proposals & materials suggestions DIMAR CONCERIA vibram 1 1 SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI 1 2 2 SCHMID ITALY 1 collection planning 1 CERTALDESE 1 SCHMID ITALY 1 1 APLASA 1 1 moodboard MUSIC WHERE THEY LIVE Royksopp, Norwegian electronic group Reel Shanghai 3D Design Studio RETAIL WHAT THEY LOVE consumer profile Hong Kong Cosbay Bay. Contemporary landscape American Asian Flow Concept New metropolitan daywear has an American/Asian feel. The leader is Alexander Wang, followed by Thakoon Panichgul, Prabal Gurung, Phillip Lim and Derek Lam. This style falls into the market segment called “contemporary”. It’s functional, smart, technological, androgynous. The new Asian creators who have grown up in the US dictate fresh rules in American and European dress. They design pragmatic products of excellent quality/price ratio, starting from models proven on the market which they elaborate with innovative details. Colours Salable and primary tones. Matt black, shiny burgundy, mirrored petrol blue, bitter chocolate, steel blue, dry sand beige, mink brown, orange tan. Full and bold colours. The entire color palette and color combination with Pantone® references is available in the Trends Guide complete book. key words Materials Synthetics, innovative, high performance, futuristic, substantial. Thick but lightweight. Bonded and double-face. Punching together with nylon and nappa. Brushed leather and crisp nylon. Skins and synthetics characterized by finishes of perfect precision. URBAN DAILY WEAR CONTEMPORARY LOOKS PRAGMATICO + PRATICO FUNZIONALE + INNOVATIVO ANDROGINO + GLOBALISMO TAILOR + INNOVATIVO CASUALLY COOL DOWNTOWN STYLE EDGY MASCULINITY + KINETIC WEAR re s e a rc h t e a m collection planning SHOES: trend positioning according to the outsole BAGS: trend positioning according to material Sketching proposals & materials suggestions 1 MASTROTTO CONCERIA VIBRAM 2 2 1 MASTROTTO CONCERIA 1 2 1 MORO MINUTERIE 2 collection planning aplasa 1 1 OFFICINA DELLE PELLI 2 MASTROTTO CONCERIA 1 2 1 OPINION LEADERS WHERE THEY LIVE moodboard MUSIC Marilyn Manson. Transgressive rock icon RETAIL consumer profile Friedrichshain, Berlin. Post-industrial graffiti art The Killers Humana Rock the grunge Concept The new rock is subversive because it combines wild and rebellious grunge with the minimalism of English classics. A style direction taken by the new generation of designers led by Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Givenchy, Balmain. Starting from typical icons of the English rock world, strict and minimal, the new rock becomes elegant and classical, austere and severe. Colours Tar black is rock. Leather brown is grunge, blood-red English, psychedelic blue is rock. Tones darken in all the colour palettes, taking on mirror, reflective, polished, velvety, shaded effects. The entire color palette and color combination with Pantone® references is available in the Trends Guide complete book. key words Materials The rock+grunge+minimal+English classic ingredients are expressed in a mixture of leather treatments: destroyed + brushed + patent, craquelet + filled + pony, shaved + waxed - laser processes. Perforated effects on thin rigid hide. Fluid nappa. Crocodile of raised scales. Rock version fish skin. Brushed, varnished and reflective in tones and the consistency of tar. Worn and torn effects. Crusts moulded with dry wax and powdery shades. MINIMAL + ROCK ANARCHY + ELEGANCE SUBVERSIVE + CLASSIC ENGLISH SELVAGGIO E SEVERO SOCIALITE + EXTROVERSO CHAOS TO COUTURE AUSTERITÀ MISTA A PERVERSIONE RIGORE E CONFIDENCE re s e a rc h t e a m collection planning SHOES: trend positioning according to the outsole BAGS: trend positioning according to material 1 1 M.P.G. CUOIFICIO MASTROTTO CONCERIA Sketching proposals & materials suggestions 1 1 collection planning 1 ITALIANA ACCESSORI 1 ATTILIO IMPERIALI MONTI & MONTI 1 1 1 1 WHERE THEY LIVE FREE TIME moodboard Modern Art of Dessert RETAIL Milan, Arco della Pace, vintage photo with tram WHAT THEY LOVE consumer profile Franciacorta Wine Festival, Piedmont, Italy Fangsuo Commune, Guanzhou The gourmet Concept A gourmet, as we know, is a person of cultivated tastes who demands the enjoyment of good food and drink. The gourmet of fashion, like that of food, is a connoisseur, a person who has the foundation of classical style, then carried through to Italian country and English heritage. As for food, the passion for accessories is defined by a search for tastes and flavours that are intense, sharp, full bodied. A lifestyle that combines a passion for the authentic, genuine, typical of a place or a style. Colours The chromatic effects form a range of browns, fresh and new. These can verge on red, burnt orange, indigo blue, military green, woodland earth and bark of scented trees. The shades can vary according to dyes and treatments of full bodied leathers. The entire color palette and color combination with Pantone® references is available in the Trends Guide complete book. key words Materials Real leather, authentic and genuine, on which to try out experimental treatments and invent new finishes, chromatic effects and grains. Craftsmanship and industry meet in the natural world to experiment with shaving, abrasion, creams and waxes of new generation but of organic origin. Brushed, crackled, distressed. Shaved and polished pony. Precious reptiles. Anaconda and alligator treated with softening oils and waxes. Thick and luminous velvets. Wool, cashmere and Shetland materials. Colour-dipped crust. BOHEMIEN + HYPSTER CONNOSSEUR + CHARACTER INNOVATIVE + OLD TASTE WILDERNES + SAVOIR FAIRE CLASSIC + CITY + COUNTRY DESTRUTTURATO + RILASSATO ICONE DEL CLASSICO + MADE IN COMFORT TRAVEL + PLEASURE re s e a rc h t e a m collection planning SHOES: trend positioning according to the outsole BAGS: trend positioning according to material CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY Sketching proposals & materials suggestions 1 1 1 DIMAR CONCERIA 1 collection planning 2 1 CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY 1 E.M. COMPANY 2 1 1 M.P.G. CUOIFICIO CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY 1 1 CONTAct Subscription Department Ars Arpel Group - Via Nievo, 33 - 20145 MILANO (Italy) T +39 02 31912.331 F +39 02 33 611 619 [email protected] www.arsarpel.com magazines Ars Sutoria Arpel 10 ISSUES PER YEAR 4 ISSUES PER YEAR 1 YEAR 1 YEAR 2 YEARS 2 YEARS ITALY 300 € 480 € ITALY 150 € 250 € EUROPE US / CANADA 500 € 850 € EUROPE US / CANADA 230 € 380 € REST OF THE WORLD 550 € 950 € REST OF THE WORLD 250 € 420 € Shoe Collections (Julia Classic, Julia Sport, Jolly, Junior) 4 ISSUES PER YEAR, PER TITLE 1 YEAR 2 YEARS ITALY 200 € 320 € EUROPE US / CANADA 280 € 480 € REST OF THE WORLD 300 € 520 € INCLUDED IN YOUR SUBSCRIPTION international delivery with FedEx Shipping cost included in the price Door to door delivery in FedEx box Tracking and signature proof “Ars Magazines” iPad app Free app from App Store Immediate download All your magazines always at hand Online access to your magazines Multimedia contents “Read” your magazine on line Monthly advise of new issues Historical archive Unique source of inspirations for designers of footwear and leathergoods. More than 65 years of issues are available – original magazines or reprinted copies on demand. Local consultation upon request. For further information [email protected] books Trends Guide Created by Ars Sutoria Research Team. Binding book with concepts, key words, colours palette, colour combinations, materials, merchandising plan and design ideas for the development of new footwear and leathergoods collections. Available for each season, 18 months in advance. ONE SEASON 500 € TWO SEASONS 800 € Only Woman & Only Man Technical Dictionary Over 200 pages of shoes collections presented for each season on fairs, catwalks, people and windows that we have selected from our Ars Sutoria magazines. Hard cover book to keep in your library. One issue published for Spring Summer and one for Autumn Winter. Illustrated dictionary with each term in five languages (English, Italian, Spanish, German and French). ONE SEASON 150 € TWO SEASONS 250 € price 120 € online arstrends.com Best selection of images from most important cities of fashion Shoes, bags and materials from fairs, windows, people and catwalks Browse, organize and share images Contact us [email protected] 1 YEAR SHOES ACCESS 499 € BAGS ACCESS 299 € SHOES+BAGS ACCESS 599 € *all subscriptions include material section CONTActs Mrs. Rossella Cucco T +39 02 31912.327 [email protected] www.arssutoria.com school FOOTWEAR 13 weeks PATTERN MAKING AND TECHNICAL DESIGN This course includes the 1 week footwear manufacturing processes introduction course • Focus of the course is pattern making techniques, explained in depth. Styles covered include, but they’re not limited to Pumps, Ballerinas, Peep Toes, T-Bar, Derby, Oxford, Loafer, Sneakers, Sandals, Thong, Ankle Boot, Low Boot, Boots • Theoretical lessons on last analysis and proportions, size conversions, rules for pattern 1 week FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURING PROCESSES INTRODUCTION A full immersion training session to introduce our students to the art of traditional shoe making from the initial design, to pattern making, to cutting, nesting, assembling and finishing stage of the footwear production process giving them some tips and tricks to help save in cost. The foot, last, upper, middle and bottom components are analyzed in depth with the help of samples and detailed videos. grading and nesting/cutting • Sample manufacturing in a shoe laboratory equipped with a complete conveyor and machines • Final examination that include a fit testing session of the samples produced in the laboratory 1 week FOOTWEAR SKETCHING Objective of this course is to teach students - both experienced professionals or beginners - the basics of shoe sketching. Training program includes, but it’s not limited to: • Sketching from a real sample • Technical drawing of the last and bottom components • Technical drawing of the shoe • Preparation of the spec sheet • Use of illustration software 2D CAD SEMINAR (optional) During the 13 week pattern making class in the late afternoon (after class lessons) we organize a seminar on 2D CAD. The objective of the seminar is to put in practice the pattern making working method learned during the traditional class with the aid of a CAD system. 3 weeks FOOTWEAR COLLECTION DEVELOPMENT In a highly competitive environment such as today’s, it is more important than ever to organize collections that reach their target customers and at the same time are efficient in terms of development and manufacturing. • Marketing and trend analysis • Merchandising plan • Sketching of shoes and components • From merchandising plan to product design This course includes the 1 week footwear sketching course BAGS 4 weeks PATTERN MAKING The core of the course is pattern engineering, a topic which is indispensable for both designers and technicians. Topics covered during the 4 weeks course are: • hard, soft, classical and sport bags, technical-design solutions applied to more trendy models • inserted sack type linings and stuck-on linings • theories on different construction used in production • ideas on types of leathers and reinforcing materials most widely used. Prototypes are firstly assembled in cardboard using staples, then with sample materials commonly used in the factories and at the end of the program using production materials (leathers, textiles, synthetics and fur). international fashion footwear magazine founded in 1947 editorial director Matteo Pasca executive editor enrico martinelli art director francesco martini editorial staff emanuela cecchetti livia sismondi Ars Sutoria Research Team orietta pelizzari (concept research) Elena Marradi (research assistant) Milena Buttarello (marketing research) materials creation Alizee Saygun Rana Feghaly companies helping develop materials KENDA FARBEN VIBRAM GRUPPO MASTROTTO M.P.G. CUOIFICIO CONSORZIO VERO CUOIO DI TOSCANA DAVOS GEA GOMMA SHOE SERVICE MARTAC CARBI. PEL public relation & communication Mariella Catalano [email protected] sales coordinators Oscar De Franceschi (Italy) [email protected] Stefano Migliavacca (Int’l) smigliavacca@ arsarpel.com marketing Giorgio Gori (Toscana) [email protected] Mario Gori (Marche) [email protected] Lorenzo Caresana (Lombardia-Veneto) [email protected] Natalie Spelge (Int’l) [email protected] Carlo Ambrogi (Int’l) [email protected] Poste Italiane Spa - Spedizione in abbonamento postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. In L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB Milano Pubblicazione registrata presso il Tribunale di Milano al numero 234 in data 10 Giugno 1966. Direttore Responsabile Matteo Pasca © Copyright 1967 Stampa: ARS ARPEL GROUP Settimo Milanese Tutti i diritti di proprietà artistica e letteraria sono riservati. E’ assolutamente vietata la riproduzione totale o parziale di articoli, disegni e fotografie, in qualsiasi forma e modo, sia analogico che digitale, anche citandone la fonte, senza espressa autorizzazione della casa editrice. Ogni abuso sarà perseguito a norma di legge All artwork and copyrights are reserved. Total or partial reproduction is absolutely forbidden of articles, designs and photographs in any form, either analogical or digital, even if stating the source, without the express permission of the publishing house. Any abuse will be punished by law. Le inserzioni pubblicitarie sono pubblicate sotto la totale responsabilità del committente; la casa editrice non si assume alcuna responsabilità per il loro contenuto. Per ogni contestazione si rimanda all’indirizzo del committente pubblicato sulla sua stessa pagina pubblicitaria o, in mancanza, in fondo alla rivista. Adverts are published at the full responsibility of the client; the publishing house does not accept any responsibility for the contents. All notifications must be referred to the advertiser, whose address can be found either printed on his advertising page or, if this is not the case, in the end of the magazine. Ai sensi dell’articolo 2 comma 2 del Codice di deontologia relativo al trattamento dei dati personali nell’esercizio dell’attività giornalistica, si rende nota l’esistenza di una banca-dati personali di uso redazionale presso la sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33. Gli interessati potranno rivolgersi al responsabile del trattamento dei dati Ing. Matteo Pasca presso la sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33, per esercitare i diritti previsti dal D.L.GS. 30 giugno 2003, n.196 Ars Arpel Group 20145 Milano Italy via Nievo 33 www.arsarpel.com www.arstrends.com