PDF format - Russian Travel Magazine
Transcription
PDF format - Russian Travel Magazine
RTM Into the Wild in Kamchatka The Price of Victory in Volgograd A Mystical Journey to Lake Baikal Pskov – the Cradle of Russian Civilization Russian Banya from a Gentleman Russian Travel Magazine Cower2-3.indd 1 27.10.2011 13:43:25 Russian Travel Magazine Contents Russia on the verge of a tourist boom .........................05 Into the Wild in Kamchatka ....................................08 Gaze at the Stars in Kaluga...............................................14 A Mystical Journey to Lake Baikal.................................................22 The Russian way of life in Leningrad Region ...................26 Arctic Dawn in Murmansk .....................................28 2 12-13.indd Sec8:2 27.10.2011 16:52:36 The Banya from a Gentleman ...................................34 The History and Mystery of the Penza Region ..............................38 The Price of Victory in Volgograd......................................42 Pskov – the Cradle of Russian Civilization ..............48 Velikiy Novgorod – Heart of the Russian State...................................52 The Taste of Russia ................................................55 3 12-13.indd Sec8:3 27.10.2011 16:53:14 Russian Travel Magazine Editor’s Note 2011 Project “Otdykhay v Rossii” Publisher CENTRE FOR INTERNATIONAL INITIATIVES (Moscow, Russia) Address: Marii Ulyanovoy Street 19-41, Moscow, Russia, 119331 General Manager and Editor Olga Anders [email protected] Project Manager Leonid Alabyan [email protected] Editing & Translation Ingeborga Knutz Creative Manager Sergey Sorokin Advertising Department Director Nadezhda Vakhtangova [email protected] Manager Elena Averkieva We would like to express special thanks to our friends Aleksey Solomatin and Sergey Borisenko, without whom this project would not have been possible. Printed by LLC “Poligraphiya - Fert” Circulation 60’000 copies. The editorial office holds no responsibility for the content of promotional materials. The editors do not enter into correspondence with authors and do not guarantee the return of manuscripts. Published material may be reproduced only with the permission of the publisher. ‘I am going to Russia!’, my English friend said to me. ‘And where exactly?’, I asked her. She said, ‘Of course to Moscow, then to St. Petersburg, and I would love to see Baikal… and what else would you advise me, do you know any other interesting places?’ I couldn’t think of what to say to her. And then I asked myself, yes, of course, for a first trip to Russia, a visit to the Kremlin and Red Square will do, then a 4 hours train ride to St. Petersburg... What else do Russian travel companies have on offer? There are a lot of interesting routes, but how do you choose what’s best for you? How do you make sure not to miss out on anything? I open my computer and read the following: total area of the Russian Federation is 17, 075,400 square kilometers, it has over 183 recognized ethnicities living in its 83 regions. So how do you choose what would be the most interesting place to see for me, my girlfriend and my friends, who have all traveled the world and now want to go to Russia? I so much wanted them to not just stick to Moscow and St. Petersburg, but also see the places where Russia itself was born, our “bright pearls” with the pristine, almost untouched nature, with its simple and kind people, who for centuries kept their traditions and rituals, songs and recipes. And despite the harsh climate and life troubles, Russian people never cease to amaze with their hospitality, their wide “Russian Soul” and their unshakable spirit. With pride and love for my beautiful homeland, I would like to present our magazine, where we invite you on a fascinating journey through nine regions of Russia, from Murmansk and Novgorod to Irkutsk and Kamchatka. We will tell you about the most interesting things to do and see in these regions, and you will learn about their distinctive customs and best tourist routes. And let everyone choose a route to his or her liking – Russia is a place where every imaginable type of leisure is on offer and where adventure awaits you at every corner. Every Russian region has something exceptional and fascinating, be it history, culture or nature, or all at once! Experience this unique way of being. Enjoy your trip! Address of the Editorial Office: Marii Ulyanovoy Street 19-41, Moscow, Russia, 119331 Olga Anders editor [email protected] Telephone: + 7 499 131 2196 NOT FOR SALE FREE OF CHARGE 4 12-13.indd Sec4:4 27.10.2011 17:57:58 Russia As far as its potential for tourism goes, Russia is among the top ten most visited countries in the world, attracting over 70 million tourists a year. Recently, Russia’s state policy in the country’s tourism sector has undergone significant changes. The federal and regional authorities are now actively promoting inbound tourism, with a renewed focus on the growing needs of foreign guests and the latest trends in the global tourism market. There are plans to establish a more modern tourist infrastructure, introduce measures to support the commercial sector, improve the efficiency of how the state regulates the industry, and improve the level of professional training. All of these goals are reflected in the federal Russian program for the development of domestic tourism in 2011 to 2018. Estimated 50 to 90 billion rubles from the federal budget and about 300 billion rubles in private investments will go into the implementation of the project, in particular the development of cruise, beach, historical, educational, environmental, and other types of tourism in Russia. The plan is to ensure a cluster approach to provide a wide range of quality tourist services. Our country has always been famous for its warmth and universal hospitality. Come and visit us soon! “The strategic direction of the Russian tourism industry is the creation of a competitive market of tourist services in the country. The main goal for us is to ensure the safety, quality and accessibility of recreation for Russian citizens and foreign tourists alike. “ Vitaly Mutko, Russia’s Minister of Sport, Tourism and Youth Policy 5 zzz.indd 5 28.10.2011 11:28:41 Russian Travel Magazine Facts and Figures Over 11.5 million foreign tourists visited Russia in the first half of 2011. In 2010, the volume of paid services rendered to Russian tour companies totaled 203 billion rubles. The number of collective accommodation facilities in Russia increased by 3,1% in 2010 and amounted to 12.8 thousand with a total accommodating capacity of over 1 million people. Total income for the industry last year was about 900 billion rubles (about 2% of Russia’s GDP). “Our brands include ballet, the great composers, writers and poets, and the places associated with them, our religion and the great churches. All of this is primarily cultural tourism. Another line of development has everything to do with our amazing nature and its extraordinary diversity. Hunting and fishing attract foreign visitors, because they can no longer find these virgin forests anywhere in Europe. Even the Russian winter is a unique thing. The Russian north is in huge demand. For example, groups of tourists come from China to Yakutsk especially to witness the cold weather of no less than minus 45 degrees. They are interested to experience this extreme. “ Alexander Radkov, head of the Federal Agency for Tourism. Interview with the newspaper “Izvestia” 23.08.2011 About Russia: Capital: Moscow Area: 17,075,400 km2 Population: 142.5 million (UN, 2007) Major language: Russian Major religions: Christianity, Islam, Buddism, Judaism Monetary unit: 1 rouble = 100 kopecks Internet domain: .ru, .su International dialing code: +7 Official state holidays January 1-05 — New Year´s Day January 7 — Christmas February 23 — Defender of the Motherland Day March 8 — International Women’s Day May 1 — Labour Day May 9 — Victory Day June 12 — Russia Day November 4 — National Unity Day The climate in Russia is famously varied from the hot subtropical climate of the Black Sea coast, the Caucasus and the Krasnodar region to harsh Arctic islands and the coast of the Arctic Ocean. The Far East is dominated by cold snowy winters and warm and humid summers. Particularly severe is the extremely continental climate of Siberia and the northern half of the Far East, which is also the cause of the permafrost area stretchig more than 10 million sq km. The layer of permafrost, often richly saturated with underground ice, can be up to 500 meters wide in the north, while in the basin of Markha river it is as thick as 1500 meters. Winters in the west of the European part of Russia and in the Caucasus are usually moderate at 0 to -5 ° C. To the east of Yakutia it is very cold, with January temperatures dropping as low as -40 and -50 ° C, sometimes even -70 ° C. Except for the Far North, Russian summers are relatively warm, even hot in the very south. The average July temperature in the north of Siberia is about 1 ° C, in the European part of the country summer temperatures reach around 24 to 25 ° C, while in the south of Russia it can get as hot as 30 to 35 degrees. Russia has about 120 thousand rivers that are over 10 km long, with their total length reaching more than 2.3 million km. 6 zzz.indd 6 28.10.2011 11:29:10 Russia CONSULAR MISSIONS OF RUSSIA Abkhazia Embassy of Russia in Sukhumi Sukhum, Akirtava str., 24 +7 840 226-36-93 [email protected] Germany Generalkonsulat der Russischen Foederation in Bonn, Waldstrasse, 42, 53177 Bonn +49-(0)-228- 386-79-31 Generalkonsulat der Russischen Foederation in Hamburg, Am Freenteich, 20, 22085 Hamburg +49-40- 229-52-01, 229-87-42, 229-77-27 [email protected] UK Consulate General of the Russian Federation in Edinburgh 58 Melville St., Edinburgh, EH3 7HF +44-131 225-70-98; 225-23-09; 220-17-85 225-95-87 [email protected] USA Consular Division, Embassy of the Russian Federation, 2641, TUNLAW RD.,N.W., WASHINGTON D.C., 20007, USA +1-202-939-89-11, 483-75-79; 939-89-19; 939-89-09, [email protected] Consulate General of the Russian Federation in New York, 9 East 91 Street, New York, NY, 10128, USA +1-212-348-17-17; 348-57-62, 831-91-62, [email protected] France Consulate General of the Russian Federation in Marseille 3, av. Ambroisе Pare, Marseille, 13008 + 334 91-77-15-25, 91-76-26-79 91-77-34-54, [email protected] Consulate General of the Russian Federation in Strasbourg 6, place Sébastien Brant, 67000 Strasbourg +333- 88-36-73-15, 88-36-97-85, 88-35-34-81, [email protected] More information on the site of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Russia: http://www.mid.ru/zu_r.nsf/strawebeng ■ 7 zzz.indd 7 28.10.2011 11:29:41 Russian Travel Magazine Total Area: 464’000 sq km Population: 345’000 people Administrative Center: Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky Tourist Centers: Nature Park «Volcanoes of Kamchatka» Local Time (UTC/GMT): +11 How to get there: Moscow to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky flight (9 hours) Seoul – Vladivostok – PetropavlovskKamchatsky flight (6 hours) Tourist Information in English: www.visitkamchatka.com Where to stay: Hotel “Petropavlovsk” *** From 3 600 rubles per night Hotel “Avacha” *** Hotel «Bel-Kam-Tour»**** Where to eat: Boulevard Restaurant Italian Restaurant Da Vinci Lounge Cafe BARAKA Cafe «On-life» Night Life and Entertainment Entertainment Center «Sports Bar» Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky Pobeda Avenue 34, tel. 5-76-92 Entertainment Center «Kosmig» Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky Karl Marx Avenue 31, tel. 9-49-90 (bowling) Night Club «Nebo» Elizovo, Lenina Street 6 Tel. 8 (41531) 7-27-27, 8 (4152) 444-666 Safety and Emergency Situations: Kamchatka’s search and rescue team – (4152) 41- 03 - 95, fax (41522) 27-65- 60, Petropavlovsk - Kamchatsky, Khalaktyrskoe Highway 5. Center for Crisis Management – 300-112, Emergency - 01 Police - 02 nearest consulates of European countries and the US: Germany Consular Section Moscow, Leningradsky Prospect 95а, 933-43-11, 936-21-43 Spain General Consulate Moscow, Nikitskaya street 21 937-56-27 937-56-26 USA Consular Section Moscow, Novinsky Boulevard, 19/23 728-55-99 728-52-47 France General Consulate St. Petersburg, Moika Embankment, 15 (812) 311-87-11 (812) 312-77-77 Switzerland Consular Section Moscow, Ogorodnaya Sloboda Lane, 2/5, 258-38-39, 925-52-89 8 Kamc.indd 8 27.10.2011 13:45:11 Kamchatka Kamchatka offers a wide range of tourism opportunities, guaranteed to satisfy even the most insatiable thirst for adventure, recreation and curiosity. Paratunskaya features 30 recreation centers, including sanatoriums with spas and thermal water pools. Eco-tourism Hiking and Volcano Climbing Tours Kamchatka boasts a variety of outstanding wild nature spots. A number of conservation areas were created on the peninsula in order to protect nature’s resources and help develop eco-tourism. Six of Kamchatka’s volcanic sites are on UNESCO’s natural heritage list, including the Kronotsky nature reserve, South Kamchatka state federal reserve, as well as natural parks of Nalychevo, Yuzhno-Kamchatskiy, Bystrinsky and Klyuchevkoy. Tours are also offered to the unique Valley of Geysers, to the caldera of the Uzon volcano, as well as other spectacular monuments of nature in Kamchatka. No matter which tour you choose, you would be surrounded by a landscape of unforgettable natural beauty, that seems as if created for no other reason than to be observed, admired and photographed. Kamchatka has 200 volcanoes on its territory, with 30 of them still active, making it one of the most remarkable spots on the planet. The mountains in Kamchatka are ideal for ascending and mountaineering, and offer routes for all levels – from the beginner to the very experienced climber. Ascents are possible on various volcanoes, ranging from Avachinsky, Koryak and Kozelsky to the Kluchevskaya Sopka, which is the highest active volcano in Eurasia, with an altitude of 4750 meters. Ethnographic tourism Of particular interest is the history and life of Kamchatka’s indigenous peoples, including, among others, the Evens, the Koryaks and the Itelmens. Local travel agencies offer tours to authentic ethno-cultural centers of the indigenous peoples of Kamchatka, where tourists can witness their traditions and customs, arts and crafts, and sample a delicious national dish. River Rafting The Kamchatka peninsula would be interesting to lovers of river rafting adventures, thanks to its dense river system and mountainous terrain coupled with flat valleys, which make up for one of the world’s most magnificent landscapes. Culture, Education and Sightseeing The attractions of Kamchatka, however, are not limited to adventure tourism. City tours are on offer for visits to local museums and historical monuments of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, a city with a dramatic and fascinating history, in which exploration and heroism are intertwined. Health and Beauty Tourism As an area of active volcanism, Kamchatka is home to about 150 clusters of thermal springs, 52 of which are open to tourists. The Paratunskaya recreation area, a favorite among tourists and local residents alike, is located just 40 kilometers from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. The area offers medical and spa treatments based on healing properties of its thermal mineral springs, as well as convenient accommodation nearby. Scientific Tourism Kamchatka possesses an almost unlimited potential for scientific tourism. Its history, ethnography, culture and geology offer exciting opportunities for scientific exploration. Kamchatka’s volcanoes and natural systems provide for activities such as monitoring plants and animals in their natural habitat, including bird colonies, breeding grounds of marine mammals, bears and much more. Kronotsky Reserve. View over the Hot Springs 9 Kamc.indd 9 27.10.2011 13:45:37 Russian Travel Magazine Cruiseship “Silver Shadow” at the coast of Kamchatka Riding Tours Spend the winter in Kamchatka! Kamchatka is a paradise, as ifcreated by nature for fans of winter spots. Kamchatka’s skiiing routes are suitable for both the begin ner sand advanced skiers alike. In Kamchatka, you will find ski resorts such as the “Red Hills”, with its stunning views of the Avachinskaya Bay (skiing trail of 585 meters), ”Edelweiss” (732 meters) and ”Moroznaya” (975 meters). Order an unfor gettable helicopter to urto ascend the steep mountain and volcanoslopes of Kamchatka. And after a couple of hours of skiing, make a trip to Paratunskiye hot springs. After a short journey, you will find yourself in a hot pool of geothermal water, enjoying the kind of relaxation which is hard to find any where else in the world. Dog Sledding Equestrian trails are made attractive by the uniqueness of the surrounding landscape. In Kamchatka, riding routes run along scenic rivers and around lakes, through steep mountain passes and dense forest. Sea Cruises Some 10 foreign cruise ships come to ports of Kamchatka every year. Cruise tours around the peninsula are available as well, with stops on the Commander and Kurile Islands, during which excursions are organized. Watching sea birds and mammals is a particularly fascinating pastime during the cruise. Coastal Cruises around Avachinskaya Bay A sea cruise around the area of Avachinskaya Bay is highly popular with both tourists and Kamchatka locals. Avachinskaya is one of the most comfortable and beautiful harbors in existence, and challenges places like Rio de Janeiro and San Francisco for the title of the best port in the world. The usual route lies through the Island of Starichkov, which is frequented by sea bird colonies, and considered a natural monument. Sea fishing is also organized during the cruise. Dog Sledding and Snowmobiling Dog sledding is a traditional means of transport for the indigenous population of Kamchatka. Dog sledding tours around the peninsula are readily available, and one can even participate in the annual dog sledding race “Beringia”, named after the grassland steppe which stretched across Eurasia and where dog sledding is believed to have originated. Snowmobiling is another popular way to journey through Kamchatka during winter. Fishing Tours Recreational “catch and release” fishing in the most picturesque areas of Kamchatka is enjoyed by fishing enthusiasts of any level. Rainbow trout, char, halibut, greenling, perch and different kinds of Pacific salmon are all big game on the rivers of Kamchatka. Sport Hunting Hunting for the Kamchatka brown bear, which, at three meters tall, is one of the largest subspecies of brown bears in the world, can be done in spring and fall. Other popular game animals found in Kamchatka include snow sheep, moose, capercaillie, wolf and wolverine. It is not unusual to combine hunting and fishing tours during the same trip. 10 Kamc.indd 10 27.10.2011 13:46:16 Kamchatka Snowboarding, Skiing and Trekking Long snowy winters and spectacular high mountains make the Kamchatka Peninsula a natural destination for skiing. Off-trail, downhill skiing accessed by a helicopter, known as heli-skiing, has become especially in-demand in Kamchatka recently. The best time for ski tours is considered to be from March to late May. Kamchatka offers skiing on large volcanoes with average slopes of more than 2000 meters, and smaller peaks of about 1000 meters. The most popular volcanoes are Avachinsky, Kozelsky, Koryak, Aag, Arik and Vilyuchinsky. Also available is skiing in more conventional ski resorts and cross-country skiing. ■ 11 Kamc.indd 11 27.10.2011 13:46:39 Russian Travel Magazine 12 12-13.indd Sec7:12 27.10.2011 13:14:40 13 12-13.indd Sec7:13 27.10.2011 13:15:14 Russian Travel Magazine Total Area: 29’800 sq km Population: 1’009’900 people Administrative Center: Kaluga Tourist Centers: Autonomous tourism institution of Kaluga region “Tourism Information Centre “Kaluga region” Autonomous tourism institution of Tarusa district “Tarusa Tourism Information Centre” Local Time (UTC/GMT): +4 How to get there: Flight London – Moscow, 4 hours Flight Stockholm – Moscow, 2 hours 25 minutes Moscow – Kaluga train journey 2 hours 40 minutes from Kievskiy station, trains depart every hours, or by bus 3 hours 40 minutes every day. Tourist Information in English: http://www.visit-kaluga.ru/en/ Restaurant “Usadba”, from 600 rubless Refined cofee-bar “Plush”, from 500 rubless Bar “Time-out”, from 700 rubless Night Life and Entertainment Karaoke-bar “Mikrofon” Nightclub «Sinatra» Nightclub “V-Max” Nightclub “Sumerki” Where to stay: Ski resort & hotel “Kvan” **** Hotel “Kaluga” **** Hotel “Ambassador” **** Hotel & restaurant “Elki” **** Safety and Emergency Situations: Emergency - 01 Police - 02 Where to eat: Grill-bar “Krilyia” Wingsbar, from 600 rubless Nearest foreign consulates are located in Moscow 14 Kaluga.indd 14 01.11.2011 14:35:26 Kaluga The Kaluga region is situated in the European center of Russia. It borders the Moscow, Bryansk, Tula, Orel and Smolensk regions. With a total area of 29’900 sq kilometers, it has a population just over 1 million people. The Kaluga region has a temperate continental climate with distinct seasons, summers are usually clear and warm and winters are moderately cold. The region has a lot of rivers, including the Oka and its tributaries Zhizdra, Ugra and Protva. The Kaluga region has many marvelous nature spots – the curves of the landscape, the bends of rivers, fields and meadows, villages with churches and monasteries that are artfully inscribed in the landscape. The National Park “Ugra”, which stretches across five administrative districts, was established to preserve these monuments of nature, history and culture in the area. In ancient times, the Kaluga region was inhabited by Slavic-Vyatich tribes, and its territory still preserves much evidence of their settlements and fortifications. The history of any land is the story of its people. Patriotism, boundless love and devotion to their motherland have always been a characteristic of Kaluga residents. After all, it is difficult to imagine how a handful of brave men from Kozelsk managed to resist the brutal hordes of Batu Khan for seven weeks in 1238. It was in the land of Kaluga, where the Great battle on the Ugra river took place in 1480, ending the nearly three hundred years of the Mongol Yoke. In 1812 Kaluga lands saw the defeat of the Napoleon army, who lost its invincibility title in Russia. The battles of Tarutino and Maloyaroslavets decided the fate not only of Russia but of entire Europe. The Kaluga region gave Russia its legendary WW2 Marshal Georgy Zhukov, as well as 146 Heroes of the Soviet Union and 15 full knights of the Order of Glory. The Kaluga region is home to many outstanding names in Russian history the famous mathematician Pafnuty Chebyshev, painter IllarionPryanishnikov, prominent architect Vasily Bazhenov, Admiral Dmitry Senyavin, the legendary explorer of the Taimyr Peninsula Vasili Pronchishchev, as well as his assistant and successor of Semyon Chelyuskin. Kaluga is also associated with the life and work of social philosopher Alexander Radishchev,”, Princess Ekaterina Dashkova, Russia’s greatest poet Aleksander Pushkin, Marina Tsvetaeva, Nikolay Gogol, Ivan Turgenev, Leo Tolstoy, Bulat Okudzhava and the groundbreaking scientists Konstantin Tsiolkovsky and Aleksander Chizhevsky. Russian dreams of spiritual development were realized in the revival of Russian Optina elders in the first half of the 19th century. Best local thinkers, writers, philosophers, scientists and members of royalty all came to see the elders of this famous monastery. 15 Kaluga.indd 15 01.11.2011 14:35:55 Russian Travel Magazine The modern Kaluga region is an advanced industrial and agricultural part of Central Russia. Among its major industries is machinery, car making, woodworking, light industry, building materials, advanced arts and crafts. Cities in the Kaluga Region Kaluga The administrative center of the Kaluga Region, the city of Kaluga, is located on the banks of the Oka River, some 180 km from Moscow. It got its first direct mention in historical chronicles in 1371. The planning and the construction of Kaluga was completed in the late 18th - early 19th century, turning the city into a shining example of urban Russian architecture. Among the projects of the regional architects such as Nikitin and Yasnygina, are outstanding pieces of city architecture: the Trading Arcade, the Ensemble of Public Places, the Trinity Cathedral, the Stone Bridge, which is still admired by the visitors to the city. The Kaluga region has long been the most advanced defense outpost of the Princehood of Moscow. It was here where some of the most significant historic battles have taken place during the invasion of Batu Khan and the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945 against Nazi Germany. Kaluga is also the cradle of space exploration and the place where the world’s first telephone station was built. These achievements are attributed to scientists Tsiolkovsky and Golubitsky Modern Kaluga is a major historical, cultural and industrial center near Moscow, with a rich variety of tourist attractions. The Stone Bridge is the only bridge in Russia, based on the design of Roman aqueducts. The height of the bridge is 23 meters. Korobovs Chambers is the oldest house of Kaluga. The Trade Arcade (Gostiny Dvor) has been the main shopping center in Kaluga since the 18th century to the present day. Kaluga Drama Theatre, founded in 1777, is among the six oldest theaters in Russia. The theater regularly tours in Europe. In 2011 it gave performances in Italy and in France at the personal invitation of the great couturier Pierre Cardin. The Victory Square is a memorial complex built in honor of Soviet soldiers and Kaluga residents who died in 1941 in the battle of Kaluga. Tsiolkovsky State Museum of the History of Cosmonautics is a museum dedicated to Tsiolkovsky’s life, work and his ground-breaking legacy was opened in Kaluga under the patronage of the chief Soviet space rocket designer Sergey Korolyov in 1967. It became the first museum in the world dedicated entirely to space exploration. Half of the museum’s exposition is dedicated to ideas and work of Tsiolkovksky, featuring a model of the first rocket designed by the scientist, as well as copies of his scientific papers. The second part of the collection is dedicated to the Sputnik launch and space exploration in general. Holy Trinity Cathedral. The Cathedral has a long history and was first mentioned in 1610 in the Nikon Chronicle in connection with the funeral of the pretender to the Russian throne False Dmitry. The temple was built in 16 Kaluga.indd 16 01.11.2011 14:36:22 Kaluga classical style and consecrated in 1819. The cathedral’s architecture is made unique by its 17th meter dome constructed without any internal support. It is 2,5 meters larger than the dome of the Kazan Cathedral in St. Petersburg. Borovsk The town of Borovsk is one of the oldest in the region. Located on the bank of the picturesque river Protva, it got its first mention in 1358. Borovsk boasts a plethora of famous Russians who at various stages of their lives called it their home. Famous philosopher Nikolay Federov worked here in the second half of the 19th century, while Russian rocket science pioneer Konstantin Tsiolkovsky taught mathematics in the local high-school. Famous mathematician Chebyshev was also a native of Borovsk. Borovsk today is a unique museum city, whose artists painted the city walls with scenes from the life of Borovians and the beautiful local scenery. The largest cultural and educational tourism center “Ethnomir” is located not far from Borovsk on the border of the Kaluga and Moscow regions. Ethnomir will incorporate 52 “ethnic culture neighborhoods” situated on the 90 sq hectares. So far the tourist cluster can boast a fully operational restaurant, cafe, a few souvenir shops and four such “neighborhoods”. The “Russian neighborhood” has a two-story museum, designed as a traditional rural Russian stove. Also operational are the Ukrainian, Belarusian and Siberian neighborhoods. The neighborhood hosts are all carriers of a particular ethnic culture. For example, the Russian Compound is home to a long-haired “Leshiy” (russian folklore nickname for a “goblin”), who can play on a wooden pipe shaped like a goose. Opened in July 2011, the Nepalese neighborhood is not fully populated yet; however foundations for the Indian and Sri Lankan sites are already being built in the neighborhood. Exploring a traditional interactive home representative of a particular ethnicity is an excellent educational medium for school children. It is fun for adults too, as Ethnomir is a prime spot for corporate parties, shopping and eating. Kozelsk Kozelsk is the oldest town in the region and was first mentioned in the chronicles in 1146. Kozelsk earned its timeless reputation for its fierce 7-week resistance to the army of Batu Khan in the spring of 1238. In response to such an unheard-of audacity Batu Khan burned the city to the ground. For the courage of its residents Kozelsk was awarded the title of the City of Military 17 Kaluga.indd 17 01.11.2011 14:36:50 Russian Travel Magazine Glory in December 2009. In the forests on the right bank of the river Zhizdra, shine the golden domes of reconstructed churches of the Saint-Vvedensky Optin Monastery, which is one of the main spiritual centers in Russia. Restoration of another spiritual sanctuary, the Kazan Amvrosievskuy Convent in the village Shamordino near Kozelsk is also in full swing. Maloyaroslavets Maloyaroslavets was first mentioned in the chronicles in 1402. The city played an important role in the Great Patriotic War against Napoleon in 1812. As the legendary Marshal Mikhail Kutuzov wrote, ‘Maloyaroslavets is the last point of the enemy attack, the beginning of his defeat and the death of the enemy.” There are various monuments dedicated to the heroes of the 1812 war, and the city operates a Military History Museum. On the outskirts of the city the magnificent Chernoostrovsky St. Nicholas Monastery is located. The monastery is a unique historical and architectural monument that is breathtaking in its beauty. The walls of the monastery still remember the bloody battle for Maloyaroslavets. Every year on October 24th, a colorful military-historical reconstruction of the battle takes place in memory of the fallen. Obninsk Obninsk is one of the youngest towns in the Kaluga region. The world’s first ever atomic power station was built in Obninsk, marking the beginning of the nuclear energy era. It is no accident that in 1999 Obninsk became the first Russian city to be officially awarded the status of the “city of science”. The Central Seismological Observatory in Obninsk has been operating since 1974, collecting data on the seismic pulse of the Earth. Tarusa Tarusa was first referenced in the chronicles in 1246. The town was a border crossing point between the Princehood of Moscow and Lithuania, whose armies regularly attacked Russian territories. Since the end of the 19th century Tarusa has become a cultural center, attracting famous writers, artists, musicians and poets, so named “the Russian Barbizon”. Russian painter Victor Borisov-Musatov lived here, as well crystallographer George Wulf, nature writer Konstantin Paustovsky and many others. One of the city’s museums is an art gallery with an extensive collection of paintings and drawings, including the works by local artists. Meschovsk Meschovsk was first mentioned in the chronicles in 1238 as one of the principalities of the Seversk land. Meschovsk was home to two Russian Tsarinas - the first and the last. A native of Meschovsk, Evdokiya Streshneva became the wife of the first Tsar in the Romanov dynasty - Mikhail Fedorovich, while another local lady, Evdokia Lopukhina married Tsar Peter the Great. A monument to the first Tsarina of the Romanov dynasty was built from donations of local residents on the territory of St. George Monastery in Meschovsk. National Park “Ugra” The Park was established on the territory of the Kaluga region in 1997. Its total area is 98’623 hectares. The reserve incorporates two natural-historic valley complexes on the rivers Ugra and Zhizdra, as well in the area near the river Vyssy. The length of the Ugra River within the park is 152 km, while 18 Kaluga.indd 18 01.11.2011 14:37:14 Kaluga the length of river Zhizdra is 92 km. The reserve has 21 natural sights and about 200 monuments of history and culture, 22 estates of old Russian aristocracy and 18 churches. There are 62 human settlements on the territory of the reserves. It hosts 978 species of plants, 287 species of vertebrate animals, including 48 mammals, 190 species of birds, 6 species of reptiles, 10 amphibians and 31 species of fish. Rural Tourism The Kaluga region is a perfect place for rural or agricultural tourism. Those who would like to relax in the most picturesque areas of the Kaluga region, will find more than 500 guest houses. Each offers comfortable accommodation, all modern conveniences and a number of “exclusive” services, such as healing goat milk treatments, hunting, fishing, hiking, the Russian banya, and much more. There is something to choose from for everyone. A modest room in a cozy village or apartments with all modern conveniences, satellite TV and internet connection - you decide. However, one thing that is certain is the home comfort, quality of service and hospitality of the hosts. Delicious food, beautiful nature, the beauty of the Kaluga region, heat of the Russian banya and a lot more once again confirm that the best holiday is in your native land. Other tourist attractions include annual festival dedicated to the work of the great Russian pianist Svyatosval Richter in Tarusa and the “Guitar World” festival in Kaluga, which attracts not only Russian but also international artists. The Kaluga region is a fascinating place and many of those who come for a visit, choose to stay here and proudly call themselves residents of the Kaluga region. ■ 19 Kaluga.indd 19 01.11.2011 14:37:39 Russian Travel Magazine 20 12-13.indd Sec2:20 27.10.2011 13:55:39 Penza Region 21 12-13.indd Sec2:21 27.10.2011 13:56:09 Russian Travel Magazine rkutsk is one of the largest and most visited Siberian cities and the administrative centre of the region. A traditional habitat of aristocratic and artistic exiles in the 19th century and an intersection of major trading routes, Irkutsk was once known as “the Paris of Siberia”. Many foreign tourists breathe a sigh of relief when they step off their Transsiberian train journey in Irkutsk, as this city quickly shakes off its formidable Siberian image – its unique architecture, cultural life and friendly people make it a rather charming place to stay in for a few days. The Baikal Region had traditionally been a place of cultural convergence. Regarded as a holy site for the numerous local peoples for centuries, Baikal has become a prominent element in cultures as different as Russian and Japanese, featuring in their songs and folk tales. The remaining stone carvings and parts of ritual buildings from thousands of years ago evidence Baikal’s significance as an ancient praying site. The lake borders Russia’s Republic of Buryatiya, which is home to Buddhist, Orthodox and Shamanism believers. Every year, Buryat shamans meet at the biggest of Baikal’s islands, Olkhon Island, to share their knowledge and experience and to conduct rituals. The crystal-clear breathtakingly beautiful Baikal regularly appears on various “Places to see before you die” lists for zealous tourists. Unfortunately, for many Baikal is still the place to come to only during summer. However, those brave enough to finally make a foray to this Pearl of Siberia during winter, are usually shocked by how much they’ve been missing. The giant body of water resting under a cap of ice surrounded by majestic snow-covered Baikal Mountains is as much of a sight in January as during the summer, and perhaps provides an even more intense spiritual experience. 22 Irkut_new.indd 22 27.10.2011 13:53:48 The Irkutsk Region Total Area: 774 800 sq km Population: 2’513’800 Administrative Center: Irkutsk Tourist Centers: Irkutsk, Listvyanka, Baikalsk, Baikal Railway, Maloye More shore, the Island of Olkhon, village Bolshoe Goloustnoye Time Zone (UTC/GMT): GMT +08:00 How to get there: Flight to Moscow, 3-4 hours; Flight from Moscow to Irkutsk, 5 hours Train Journey to Moscow, up to 36 hours, Train Journey from Moscow to Irkutsk, approximately 3 and a half days Flight from New York to Moscow, 10 hours; flight from Moscow to Irkutsk, 5 hours Flight from New York to Beijing, 14 hours; flight from Beijing to Irkutsk, 90 minutes Tourist websites in English: www.baikal.ru, www.kbzd.transsib.ru Where to stay: In Irkutsk: Hotels “Europe”, “Star,”“Gloria,” “Victoria”, “Mayak» more information at www.baikalvisa.ru/ In Listvyanka: Hotel “Baikal Business Center”, business hotel “Delta, sanatorium “Electra,” Ski resort «Sable Mountain”, more information at www.grandbaikal.ru In Baikalsk: Hotel “Irkutsk”, “Baikal”, more information at www.eastland.ru Where to eat: European in Irkutsk: (500 to 3500 rubles) “Avantage» (http://grandbaikal. ru/), “Beer House» (www.bier-haus.ru), “Swifts» (www.strizhi.net), “Nezhniy bulldog» (www.buldog.ru) Japanese: “Kyoto” (www.kyoto.irk.ru), «Kabuki» (www.kabuki.su) Mexican: «Rio-Grande» (www.rio-grandeirk.ru) Russian: «Sibirskaya derevenka» (www.restoranangara.ru) Nightlife and Entertainment: Entertainment center “Shark» www.akula-club.ru Night club “Megapolis» www.megaclub.ru Club-restaurant Estrada www.estrada-club.ru Nightclub Stratosphere www.strata-club.com Night Club Super Maradona www.sma.irk.ru Paintball Centre Action Painting www.paintball38.ru Safety and Emergency Situations Baikal search and rescue team, Irkutsk region, the village of Nikola Telephone: +7 (3952), 70-69-80, 56-40-10. Rescue Service of the Irkutsk region, Irkutsk, Baikal Street 295, Telephone: +7 (3952) 35-07-94, 23-40-51, 35-15-84, 35-32-73 Rescue Service of Irkutsk: Telephone: +7 (3952) 56-02-46 Marshal Zhukov avenue 72 / 1 Telephone: +7 (3952) 35-85-10 Fire emergency - 01 Police - 02 Emergency Medical Service - 03 Gas emergency service - 04 Information service 09, 009 Free time reference - 223-223 Emergency call from a mobile phone - 112, 01 * MedLayner, medical reference service +7 (3952) 70-23-03 Telephone code reference service - 81-40 Nearest Foreign Consulates Consulate General of Poland in Irkutsk Sukhbaatar Street 18 Telephone: 7 (3952) 28-80-10 Fax: +7 (3952) 28-80-12 www.wiza.polsha.ru Honorary Consulate of the Republic of Lithuania Baikal Street 259B, Telephone: +7 (3952) 35-93-58 www.litva.irk.ru 23 Irkut_new.indd 23 27.10.2011 13:54:19 Russian Travel Magazine And let’s not forget all the fun winter pastimes on offer - dog sledding, skiing, skating and ice driving are as obligatory in January as taking a dip in Baikal is in the summer. Not that you need any more reasons to come to the Irkutsk’s region, but why not time your visit to one of many business, culture and sports events going on during winter? The International Winter Game Festival “Zimniada” takes place in February around Irkutsk and incorporates several cultural, business and sports events. This year’s festival was launched in the ski resort “the Sable Mountain” in the town of Baikalsk. The games were opened with a game of a tug of war, a skiing race and a weight lifting competition. In 2011, the Festival attracted over 1500 participants from 17 countries and over 40 000 people came to watch. Baikal Tourist Fair, the Baikaltour, was first organised 15 years ago as a way to facilitate business relations with foreign tourist companies and promote the region as a lucrative tourist destination. Last year’s fair brought together over 60 companies from Russia, as well as China, Korea, Mongolia and Japan. The fair incorporated several business conferences, seminars and roundtables, attended by regional and international investors and representatives of the federal government. The entertainment part of the fair included a master class in ice sculpting, which, of course is equally invaluable for fostering those business links in a more informal setting. Then there is a festival dedicated to the quintessential Siberian art form – the ice sculpture. The ice sculpting competition “Ice Seal” takes place on Baikal near the village of Listvyanka. The winners of the contest, which attracts artists from all over Siberia, are then chosen for the team, which represents entire Russia at the Ice Alaska World Ice Art Championship in Fairbanks, USA. Snowmobile races “Snow Leopard” between Irkutsk, Listvyanka and the town of Baikalks also usually take place in the end of February. With a distance of over 150 kilometers, “Snow Leopard” is a race, which tests some fifteen of its participants to the extreme. Moving on to March, this is when an ice marathon on the frozen surface of Baikal is organized. This year’s event aimed to promote eco-friendly causes, and was titled “Keep the water clean”. With a distance of 42 kilometers and a rather chilly air, the marathon gathered 80 daring athletes from 14 countries. The intense conditions didn’t, however, deter 69-year old Wilfried Fischer from Germany and 16-year old Russian girl Daria Manzii from participating in 2011. This year’s winner also set a record, finishing the ice race in 6 hours 30 minutes. The Ice Marathon, being a uniquely exciting and extreme undertaking, was included in the 2007 Guinness Book of Records for being the world’s only marathon to be run entirely on the ice surface. Finally, also in March, is when the mountain skiing race for the Governor’s Cup is organized. Over 120 skiing lovers from twelve age groups come to the Sable Mountain ski resort to try their skills at Alpine skiing and slalom. Of course, there are plenty of other opportunities for fun and active recreation on Baikal that are off the official program. We are talking about winter trekking across the lake, the Buryat national holiday Sagaaglan, the taiga hunting festival, the Maslenitsa pancake week, and the less conventional sports, like snow volleyball and ice football. For others, there are ice fishing contests and dog sledge expeditions across Baikal. ■ Ice Sculpture Contest “Crystal Miracle” Skiing at Baikal Shore Ice Sculpture Contest “Soul of Lake Baikal” Sled Dog Racing 24 Irkut_new.indd 24 27.10.2011 13:54:44 News Kuban Cossacks get into the Guinness Book of Records October 2011 marked the 200-year anniversary of the State Academic Kuban Cossack Choir. The celebration culminated in a performance of famous Cossack songs by what constituted the world’s largest Cossack Choir, consisting of more than two thousand artists. The concert was attended by thousands of locals and members of the special committee of the Russian Book of Records and the Guinness Book of Records. Astronauts from the International Space Station watched the performance from space, and even got to sing along the traditional Cossack song, “Unhitch the horses, boys.” Russians to build a hotel in space by 2020 The Yuri Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center, located in the Moscow region, announced its plans to build first ever commercial accommodation in space. The space hotel could admit its first guests as early as 2020. They, of course, should be fearless in the face of great heights, fast travel and strong acceleration. According to the head of the Gagarin training centre Boris Kryuchkov, Russia has long been paying special attention to commercial space travel, and 10 tourists have already travelled to space. Kryuchkov added, “The hotel will be able to accommodate only a few people at first, but we expect the number of guests to grow to a dozen”. Tourists will be transported to the space hotel in so-called “charter” space shuttles. The first ever space tourist was American millionaire Dennis Tito, who visited the ISS in 2001. His flight took place on board of the Russian spacecraft “Soyuz”. In vino salus Wine tourism is thriving In the Krasnodar region of southern Russia. Especially popular among tourists is the Temryukskiy district, whose winemaking tradition goes back to ancient Greece. Private wineries also have mini hotels and wine cellars for wine production and ageing. Here you will find unique health centers, located in quiet picturesque vineyards, where visitors can not only appreciate the taste and quality of home-made wine, but also to experience its healing properties. FYI Russia has the longest motorway in the world, which links Beijing, Moscow and St. Petersburg. The project for the highway, which passes through areas with permafrost, was first developed in 1966, and the work began in 1978. The project, whose estimated cost was 6,5 billion dollars, was finally completed in September 2011. 25 12-13.indd Sec5:25 27.10.2011 13:15:54 Russian Travel Magazine The Leningrad Region Total Area: 85 908,8 sq km Population: 1’704’400 Tourist Centers: Shlisselburg Ivangorod Tikhvin Vyborg Staraya ladoga Time Zone (UTC/GMT): + 4 How to get to Leningrad region Daily flight from London, journey time 3 hours 30 minutes, tickets from 10,600 rubles. Daily flight from Amsterdam, jour- ney time 1 hour 25 minutes, tickets from 5800 rubles. Daily flight from Hamburg, journey time 2 hours 30 minutes, tickets from 5800 rubles Official Tourist Website: www.lentravel.ru Where to stay: Guest House “Stary Dom», Tikhvin, from 3000 rubles per night Hotel «Dobriy Los’», Losevo village, from 2200 rubles per night Hotel “Petrovskaya”, Shlisselburg town, from 3500 rubles per night Where to eat: Staraya Ladoga village, Volkhovskoe Shosse Restraurant «Amsterdam», European couisine, Vsevolozhsk town Restaurant «Ivanych», Russian cuisine, Ivanovo village, Priozersky district Restraurant «Prince Rurik» Nightlife and Entertainment: Night club, «Vyborg Palace», Vyborg town Night club «Matrix», Kingisepp town Night club «Pelikan», Kirishi town Safety and Emergency Situations: For Police, dial 02 State Department for Emergency Situations of Leningrad Region Tel. (812) 640-21-60 Nearest consular offices: Consulate General of the United States of America 191028, St. Petersburg, Furshtatskaya Street 15 Tel. +7 (812) 331-26-00 British Consulate in St. Petersburg Proletarskaya Diktatura Street 5 Consulate General of France 191186, St. Petersburg, Moika Embankment 15 Tel. (812) 332-22-70 26 Lenin.indd 26 27.10.2011 12:44:56 Leningrad Region Rural - Village Tourism Staying a few nights in a Russian village might not sound like the most luxurious way to spend your vacation, but it sure provides for one of the most unassuming and environmentally friendly holidays, which has its share of fans. Leningrad region boasts abundant opportunities for fun village stays that will surely prove to be very revealing of the authentic Russian lifestyle For a picturesque view, pick a cottage like the “Sorochye Gnezdo” at the Gulf of Finland, the “Ryabinka” cottages near Narva river or the “Zaklepye” guesthouse with its access to the charming Dolgoe lake. For those who want to test a traditional Russian village home, book a stay at Voronye Gorki village. There will be plenty of opportunities to engage with the village life, including berry and mushroom picking in the forest, hunting, fishing, horse riding and, of course, the cathartic experience of a Russian banya. For a taste of old-school high-life, visit one of the former estates of Russian nobility, which still retained their history and beauty, with an added plus of modern comforts. Check out “Mishkina Dacha” and “Yegerskaya Sloboda Estates”. Industrial Tourism Industrial tourism is a relatively new but increasingly fashionable tourist trend. Many people believe it is impossible to truly get to know a country without exploring how its industries function and how the local people make a living. If you share this view, why not book an individual tour farms and factories of Leningrad region, or perhaps even to a hydroelectic plant in the town of Volkhov? Event Tourism No matter the time of the year, something fun or fascinating is always going on in Leningrad region. The summer season in particular offers many occasions for celebration. “Tree of Life” is a traditional folk festival of the Vepsian culture and way of life through music, games and performances. It is held every June in the village of Vinnity of Podporozhsky district. “Tree of Life” combines elements of a mysterious pagan holiday with contemporary outdoor celebration. The festival also serves as a meeting point for indigenous peoples of the Leningrad Region, including the Veps, the Finns and the Karelians. “Sabantuy” is a traditional holiday of the Tatar people, celebrated on the last Sunday of June. Come to Kuzmolovo village of the Vsevolozhsk district to take part in costmary open-air games, compete in weight lifting and pole climbing, and, of course, get a taste of ethnic Tatar and Bashkir cuisine. The cycle of historical festivals “Living legends of Leningrad Region” attracts a lot of fans of military history every year. Visitors can feel the atmosphere of past centuries – enjoy the costume dramas, see the historical battles, try on the historical clothes, eat the national dishes. “Кnight’s castle” is a July festival held at the Vyborg Castle in the Vyborgsky district. The fest involves several medieval music concerts, as well as a theatrical performance during which knights, clad in armor and chain mail, dressed in caftans and camisoles, compete in re-enacted tournaments. “Russian Fortress” is a military and historical festival, hosted at the Korella fortress in the town of Priozersk. Come for a visit and join the numerous military and historic reproduction games, including an assault of the Korella citadel. Or, of you prefer the role of an observer, watch one of the professional fencing tournaments or just walk through the cozy medieval streets of Priozersk. Finally, in October the magical “Light a Heart” event takes place in the village of Izvara in Volosovskiy district. Izvara was a family-estate of the legendary Nobel-nominated Russian painter, traveler, philosopher and scientist Nicholas Rerich. “Light a Heart” gathers visitors from all over the world who join followers of Rerich’s genius vision, including artists from the Mariinsky Theatre in St. Petersburg. Several musical performances are organized, as well as exhibitions of Rerich’s paintings, many of which are never showcased anywhere else. ■ 27 Lenin.indd 27 27.10.2011 12:45:18 Russian Travel Magazine Total Area: 144,900 sq km Population: 836,700 Administrative Center: Murmansk Tourist Centers: Kandalaksha, Kirovsk, Lovozersky district Time Zone (UTC/GMT): +3 (Moscow Time) How to get there: The Murmansk region is situated some 230 kim from the borders of Finland and Norway, a journey which takes 3,5 hours in a car Flight from Moscow to St. Petersburg, 2 hours 20 minutes Flight from St. Petersburg to Murmansk, 1 hours 50 minutes Distance between Moscow and Murmansk, 2250 km. Between St. Peterburg and Murmansk, 1500 km Toursit Websites in English: www.murmantourism.ru Where to stay: Hotel Park Inn Polyarnye Zoru, from 2500 rubles www.nwhotel.ru Congress Hotel Meridian, from 3000 rubles, www.meridian-hotel.ru Hotel 69th Parallel, from 1800 rubles, www.69parallel.ru Restaurants and Entertainemnt: All information can be found on www.murmantourism.ru Safety and Emergency Situations Emergency service, dial 112 Nearest consular offices Consulate General of Norway in Murmansk Fax: +7 (815 2) 457 451 (reception) +7 (815 2) 456 871 (reception) +7 (815 2) 476 178 (visa section) +7 (815 2) 457 959 (officer of the Police and Customs) Murmansk office of Consulate General of Finland Phone: +7 8152 445382 Fax: +7 8152 448341 +358 9 578 56116 Official Representative of Iceland in Murmansk Phone: +7 (8152) 476 443 Fax: +7 (8152) 454 268, +7 (8152) 465 488 Official Representative of France in Murmansk Tel: (8152) 445-382 Fax: (8152) 448-341 Honorary Consulate of the Netherlands in Murmansk Telephone: (8152) 40-06-00 (reception), (8152) 20/06/40 (visa section, from 14.00 to 16.00) Fax: (8152) 45-74-51, 47-61-78, 45-68-71 (24 hours) Honorary Consulate of Sweden in Murmansk Tel: (8152) 400 620 (14.00 - 16.00) Fax (hours): (8152) 457 451, 476, 178 456 871 Telephone from Norway: 00 75 12 95 10 342 Phones: (8152) 400 600 (reception) 400 620 (visa section), 400 610 (attaché for police and customs) Fax: (8152) 457 451 (reception) 456 871 (reception) 476 178 (visa section) 457 959 (officer of the Police and Customs) 28 Mur.indd 28 27.10.2011 12:52:37 Murmansk Interview with Minister of Economic Development of the Murmansk Region Sergey Agarkov for the Russian Travel Magazine Sergey, the Governor and the Government of the Murmansk region started paying considerable attention to the development of its tourism industry. Could you tell us why? The Murmansk Region is the northernmost region of Russia, and is located entirely on the Kola Peninsula. Those who were fortunate enough to discover all its secrets often call the region a “Treasure Peninsula.” According to the research by the World Tourism Organization, the modern tourism industry is one of the most profitable industries in the global economy. Growth rates of revenues from tourism are far ahead of most other industries. It has a stimulating effect on trade, construction, transport, heavy industry and agriculture. Rational use of our vast tourism and recreational potential should be one of the most effective ways of restructuring the regional economy. How did the development of tourism impact the socio-economic development of the region? We formed a realistic approach to tourism and its meaning for the economy, as well as to its beneficial role for the socio-economic development of the region. Each year, the Murmansk Region attracts more than 300’000 tourists, who come both in groups and alone. We are developing different types of tourism - sightseeing, fishing, hunting, water sports, environmental, ethnographical, mountain climbing, skiing and snowmobiling. The list is endless. Just take the crab safari! Also, the Ministry of Economic Development of the Murmansk region continues to work on cruise and ferry tourism based at the Murmansk seaport, that are funded from the federal budget. This in turn should have a positive impact on the number of tourists in the region and tax revenues as well. 29 Mur.indd 29 27.10.2011 12:52:58 Russian Travel Magazine Where do your guests come from? According to independent sources, in 2010, the number of foreign tourists increased by 12.5 percent to 36’000 compared to 2009 figures. The largest share of visitors come from outside the CIS, most of them citizens of Norway, Finland, Sweden, the US, the UK and Germany. Which investment projects would you recommend foreign businessmen to pay attention to? The Murmansk region is very promising for the foreign investor because of its position on the global market as a strategic hub of the Arctic. Hightech investment projects such as the development of the Shtokman gas field and the Murmansk transport hub arouses a lot of interest from both Russian and major international companies alike. We are bidding on our potential in the tourism sector and we are focusing on attracting tourists to the region. The regional tourism cluster “Russian Lapland” is a radical step towards transformation of the tourist sector of the Murmansk economy. It includes a number of investment projects, a detailed description of which you will find in the Investment directory of the Murmansk region.We have already developed an economic and technical plan of “Russian Lapland”, in particular the investment project in the territorial single-industry formation of Revda. We’ve prepared investment sites for six infrastructure projects, and finally we have received 150 million dollars in co-financing for projects from the regional budget. Let’s go back to tourism in the Murmansk region. Why should people come here? What is there to see? Where should they stay? There are very few places on the map of Russia, where you would find such a variety in nature. Here, the Arctic tundra borders thick forest, the sun never sets on the horizon in the summer, and in the winter the sky is splashed in fantastic colors of the aurora. The number of lakes and rivers of the Kola Peninsula is truly incalculable: there are over 111 000 lakes and more than 20 000 rivers with the purest water full of fish. In the fast currents of ours rivers, you could catch a truly royal fish, the “Atlantic salmon”. High mountains with steep slopes, mountain passes, gorges and plateau-like tops - all this leaves quite an impression on people who come here for the first time. What, in your opinion, is of particular interest in the region? The real hallmark of the Kola Peninsula is fishing. The names of Kola rivers, such as Rynda, Kharlovka, Varzina, Yokanga, Ponoi, Varzuga, Umba and Kola are all well-known outside Russia. And all the lakes we have, with crystal clear water! Salmon fishing is allowed during the course of its spawning in 74 rivers. However, the “catch and release” type of fishing is usually used. Some trophies weigh more than 20kg. Tourists from 35 countries, as well as Russia come here to enter the battle with the beautiful and strong fish – the wild Atlantic salmon. This royal fish! The region has more than 30 comfortable bases and camps on offer. At the same time, many of them, except for the bases on the river Kola, are located in remote places. We transport the fishermen there by helicopter. The wilderness, the pristine beauty... Nevertheless, it is a developed industrial region, and the only northern port in Russia that stays ice-free all year. The North is interesting and unusual in all of its aspects, it is this uniqueness that keeps on attracting tourists and makes them return again and again to the Kola Peninsula. For more information on the Murmansk region and its accommodation facilities, visit our website at www.murmantourism.ru. Welcome to the Kola Peninsula! 30 Mur.indd 30 27.10.2011 12:53:22 Murmansk Investing in the Murmansk Region With its convenient location near the Barents Sea, an all-year round accessible seaport, proximity to Scandinavia and a wealth of natural and human resources, the region’s tourist industry is an attractive option for long-term investment. The most notable investment project in the Murmansk Region is the international innovative tourist cluster “Russian Lapland”, which has already attracted a combined investment of 4,8 billion roubles. As part of the “Russian Lapland” project, 4 ski bases, two hotels, a tourist camp, a recreation centre and a sanatorium will be built in the areas of Lovozerye and Khibiny. The project is due for completion in 2016 and has an expected return on investment time of 7 years. Following the opening of the Russian Lapland, the annual tourist inflow in the region is expected to rise from the current 65 000 to 265 000, and thanks to the new accommodation, the maximum tourist intake capacity of the area is set to increase from 4343 to 18 000 people. The Net Present Value of the “Russian Lapland” project is estimated at 846,34 million roubles, with the internal rate of return of 13,12 %. The development, which is expected to create 2362 local jobs, is a joint initiative of a private tourism company Nord and the Federal government of the Murmansk Region. Russian Lapland While the Kola Peninsula is full of places to be seen and mountain slopes to be enjoyed, the modern infrastructure, which would allow doing all these things with style, safety and comfort just wasn’t there in many cases. “Russian Lapland”, one of the most exciting tourist developments in the region, is about to change that. The 24.4 million dollar project is designed to put favourite regional tourist spots like the Khibiny Mountains and the sacred Saami lake Seidozero on the radar of international tourist routes. The main objects of the “Russian Lapland” development will be based in the town of Kirovsk at the spurs of the Khibiny Massif, which is set to become the main skiing destination, and in the Lovozersky district, which will focus on ethnographic, ecological and wildlife tourism. The first stage of the project will see the development of tourist infrastructure in the village of Redna, including the building of a skiresort “Alluaiv”, and a tourist complex called “Museum under open sky”. Also planned is the construction of a year-round business complex near the lake Krovoe, setting up tourist facilities with a focus on water sports at the Umbozero lake, and the reconstruction of sanatorium “Northern Light”. The tourist complex will make the various opportunities for active recreation in the region much more comfortable and easily accessible. These are just a few things you could do during your stay in “Russian Lapland” – skiing and snowboarding, hiking through the tundra, rafting, ice fishing and hunting, snowmobiling and mountain biking. You can learn how to build a real igloo and how to survive in the forest. “Russian Lapland” will draw its inspiration from the culture and heritage of the Saami people, about 300 of whom still live in the Kirovsk area. “Saami village” is a designed to be an ethnographic, educational, as well as recreational tourist hub. The exterior of the buildings in the village will be modelled on traditional Saami dwellings, while guests will be offered authentic Saami cuisine in the restaurants of the complex. Lovozero also hosts the Museum of the Saami Language and Literature, which highlights the work of the Saami writers and poets, and showcases their traditional singing and other aspects of the traditional Saami culture. Anyone interested in the life of these Nordic people, should visit the Kola Saami Museum in Lovozero, which boasts a uniquely rich collection of ethnographic material, from ancient stone carvings to more contemporary arts and crafts pieces. The second stage of the project will focus on the construction of two world-class ski resorts - “Vudyavrchorr” and “Lovchorr”, as well as building of a gondola-type ski lift on the 1095 meters high Aykuayvenchorr mountain in Kirovsk. The ski lift seats 8 people and is expected to be completed as early as 2012. The initiative hopes not only to kick-start a new wave of tourism in the region and generate revenue, but also to support the local indigenous people, help sustain and strengthen their cultural and ethnic identity and give economic incentives to the population of the Murmansk region as a whole. ■ 31 Mur.indd 31 27.10.2011 14:24:38 Russian Travel Magazine You wouldn’t believe, but our 20-meter “gefilte fish” broke all records Chefs of the Jewish religious community In Birobidzhan, the capital of the Jewish Autonomous Region, located in eastern Russia, prepared the world’s largest stuffed pike. Before getting a chance to taste this culinary masterpiece, guests had to answer a little quiz. They had to guess in particular, what ingredients and in what quantities were added to the record-breaking fish. It turned out that the “gefilte fish” needed many kilograms of fish, vegetable oil, and flour among other things. The “Gefilte Fish” is considered a symbol of the Jewish national cuisine. International Festival of Jewish Culture and the Arts takes place in the Jewish Autonomous Region once every two years in September. It gathers well-known Russian and foreign artists from the US, Israel, Ukraine, Austria and China. The world’s oldest Slavic city in the Southern Urals A Russian version of the British Stonehenge called Arkaim can be found in the Chelyabinsk region in the Southern Ural Mountains. Many years after its discovery, Arkaim remains a mystery for scientists who argue whether the mysterious structure is remains of an ancient city, or an observatory. Arkaim has a ring structure which is clearly focused on the stars. Scientists determined that the city is almost a thousand years older than the legendary Troy. Arkaim’s huge five-meter walls consisted of a wooden frame filled with ground-brick. The ruins are shrouded in numerous legends. According to one version, Arkaim is where the Zoroastrian prophet Zarathustra ended his life. However, local ladies are sure of one thing - if you wash your face and hands in the river Karaganka on whose bank the ancient city is situated, you can regain youth and beauty. Arkaim has over time turned into a kind of Mecca for esoteric believers from around the world. Here they find a place of mystical power and regularly visit the ruins of Arkaim. Not far from this place, in the Bredinskiy district of the Chelyabinsk region, archeologists found the most ancient chariot on earth. The chariot, discovered in the excavation site of Sintasha, is much older than its Chinese counterparts, having been built around two thousand years before our era. FYI Siberia is a region in Russia stretching some 10 million sq km from the Urals in the west to the mountain ranges of the Pacific Ocean in the east and from the shores of the Arctic Ocean in the north to the steppes of Kazakhstan in the south. Landlocked within Siberia is the Republic of Buryatia, Tuva and Yakutia, as well as Russian regions of Altai, Krasnoyarsk, Tyumen, Kurgan, Omsk, Novosibirsk, Tomsk, Kemerovo, Irkutsk and Chita regions. Historically, Siberia incorporated the Russian Far East as well. 32 12-13.indd 32 27.10.2011 12:43:43 33 12-13.indd Sec6:33 27.10.2011 12:42:30 Russian Travel Magazine 34 Banya.indd 34 27.10.2011 10:53:58 The Banya ur car raced towards Krasnaya Polyana. We were late for an appointment. It seemed that the avalanche of rain would wash away the paint on our car, and the sudden hail would smash it into pieces. Apparently, we were going through a purgatory – we were meeting with the Master of Purity after all. His name is James, he a subject of Her Majesty the Queen. And his unusual business is called «BRITISH-BANYA." Of course, the “BRITISH-BANYA” is not a simple banya, just as its boss is not just a London dandy. With the blessing of the official representative of the Dalai Lamain Russia, James became the chairman of the Buddhist Society "Amitabha" in the Krasnodar Region and the South of Russia. He is now building a hotel, where seminars on physical therapy, special training on the physical and spiritual detoxification and free lectures on Buddhism will be organized. Why did you choose to come to Russia and open a business in Krasnaya Polyana, so far from home? How did it all begin? I came here once with a friend to ski, so began my love affair with this wonderful region. I came here three times since, and I had the idea of creating an area of alternative tourism and recreation. Doing business in Russia is bound with a lot of problems. We started at a difficult time, and lost a lot of money. But these difficulties were a lesson to us. There was an old banya, and we decided to try to launch a banya business, which was popular at the time and now as well. I am an engineer, and I have read a lot on this subject. Now I know a lot about banyas and here is the result of my work, the «BRITISH-BANYA." Of course, we changed a lot since then. Is “BRITISH-BANYA" a brand name, or you are using British technology which is unknown in Russia? Britain is known for collecting everything that is the best in the world, and then pretend it is a British invention. For example, the English tea is, in fact, from India. Or take the British Museum, which is filled with artifacts from Egypt. My big passion is environmentally-friendly construction. Here I have a role of a scientist as well. I learned and tried many things in life, and I use all my knowledge and skills here at Krasnaya Polyana. I make money doing what I like. Did you have to give up any comforts in England for the opportunity to realize your creative potential in Russia? When I was at university in England, I did not like the social life. I was bored with my classmates. The teachers prepared me to enter the business industry, and this was probably not quite my thing. Now I am doing what I am supposed to do. Here I am on top of the situation, and I do not want to be a cog in someone’s business machine. 35 Banya.indd 35 27.10.2011 10:54:42 Russian Travel Magazine How do you reconcile Buddhism as your religion and banya as your business? I went through many stages during my eight years in the business. What the «BRITISH-BANYA" represents is the result of my journey, both spiritual and material. The Buddhist seminars and psychotherapeutic practice of my wife Tatiana in many ways transformed the original business scheme, and now we practice the symbiosis of spirituality and practicality of mind and body. This is our way to get to know the world and ourselves in it. This is a search for harmony. When we visited the Dalai Lama, he told us something wise: "When you are asked who you are - a Buddhist or Christian or whatever your religion is, reply, my religion is kindness." In our view, Buddhism is not just an instruction on how to live. The man himself then determines if he is ready to live by these rules or not. It's his choice. Russian banya has a lot of their traditions, and, probably, not all your customers understand the essence of your spiritual and ecological approach. What do you do when people disagree with your philosophy? We decided early on that our creative and spiritual ideas apply to our family. Those who disagree with us, accept it. And we do not impose anything on anyone who is not interested. Making a choice is their legal right. For us, banya is a way to give people an understanding of the meaning of sobriety, joy and happiness. At the same time it's a nice source of income of which we are not ashamed. We took our fate into our own hands and offered our vision. You have a chance to try it, and afterwards you can see whether it’s right for you or not. How do you adapt to the Russian rules? And did the Russian banya help you with that? Philosopher Schumacher said that everything in nature happens harmoniously, albeit slowly, and we have to learn from nature. We live and work here, so we’re already at home. I used many Russian banya principles in the production - to heat the banya “in black”, to pour ice water, and many other things. But along with this, we offer Native American ways of steaming and Eastern herbal tea. I'm half Irish and one day I got to know a half-Native Indian, half-Irish on the internet. He was a shaman of his tribe and helped me learn the Indian technique of steaming, the sweat lounge, which we offer here. I had to change the size of the clay steam tent four times, as a difference of just 3 to 4 centimeters can change the quality of the service. I constructed this banya like a musical instrument. Now it sounds brilliant! James, you're an Irish Briton who lives with his family in Krasnaya Polyana. Tell us, what is an English gentleman? Oh yeah, I'm still an English gentleman! I live in the Caucasus and could start telling you fairy-tales ... But I'm still holding on. I like to live and work here. I'm curious. I live in harmony with nature, which is just beautiful. I do not look down on people and invite everyone with whom I could share joy and happiness. I am a happy person and a gentleman! ■ 36 Banya.indd 36 27.10.2011 10:55:11 The Banya 37 Banya.indd 37 27.10.2011 10:55:40 Russian Travel Magazine Total Area: 43 200 sq km Population: 1’388’000 Administrative Center: Penza Tourist Centers: Tarkhany village (birthplace of the poet Mikhail Lermontov), mineral waters springs, mud-therapy resorts, Zolotarevskiy excavation site Time Zone (UTC/GMT): GMT + 4 How to get there: Flight London – Moscow, 4 hours. Plus a car journey to Veliky Novgorod, 4,5 hours Flight Stockholm – Moscow, 2 hours 25 minutes Moscow –Penza train journey 13 to 15 hours from Kazanskiy or Kurskiy Train, train departs every hours Where to stay: Hotel ‘London – Paris’ www.pnz-lp.ru, from 2000 rubles Hotel ‘Penza’ www.hotel-penza.ru, from 2300 rubles Where to eat: Russian: Restaurant Slavyanskiy, average bill 850 rubles European: Restaurant Evropeyskiy, average bill 600 rubles Nightlife and Entertainment Entertainment comlex ‘Dostoyevskiy’ Safety and Emergency Situations Rescue Service 01 (dial 112 from mobile phone) Police 02 Ambulance 03 Nearest foreign consulates are located in Moscow 38 Penz.indd 38 27.10.2011 10:56:40 Penza Region The city of Penza is a fascinating concoction of historical and architectural monuments from 18th and 19th centuries, set against Soviet buildings and contemporary high-rises. The first ever Drama Theater in Russia was built in Penza in 1793 and the city came to be known as the “New Athens” for the variety of educational and cultural establishment that appeared later. The Nikitin Brothers also built the first provincial circus in Penza in 1873, which after more than a century later remains second only to circuses in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Penza boasts a plethora of traditional Russian churches, some of the most remarkable and best preserved of which are the 17th century Trinity Convent, the Protection Monastery, the Peter and Paul Cathedral and the Transfiguration Monastery. The Trinity-Skanov Monastery in Narovchatovsky district near Penza is an important architectural monument and a pilgrimage site for Orthodox believers from all over Russia, who come to pray to its Trubchevsk icon of the Mother of God. Being the hometown of one of the fathers of Russian Futurism, Vsevolod Meyerhold, Penza could rightly be called the birthplace of the movement in Russia. Penza Art Institute was the alma mater of one of the most prominent avant-garde figures in the world, painter and architect Vladimir Tatlin. Boyeva Gora Street hosts the famous House of the Futurists, which was the usual hang out place of Tatlin, famous cubist painter Aristrakh Lentulov and legendary revolutionary poet Vladimir Mayakovsky. The House of the Futurists is also where Mayakovsky met his muse Tatiana Yakovleva, who many would argue has led the poet to his tragically early death. Penza’s main pedestrian street Moskovksaya features a variety of interesting architecture, such as the 19th century Meat Arcade, which looks rather regal, but is in fact the place where meat used to be sold. Moskovskaya Street is now more suitable for a relaxing stroll, a coffee and a place to do some shopping for local art and souvenirs. And if you find yourself in need for a refreshing swim, head to the Penza open swimming pool, also operational in winter for a more intense experience. The historic role of the city as a 17th century fortress, built to defend Penza against hostile nomadic tribes, is still echoed in its medieval shooting club where you can practice shooting with a crossbow or a mini catapult. And once you’ve honed your skills, head out into the forest to join the members of one of Penza’s medieval clubs in a reconstruction of an ancient battle. Dense forest, which occupies some 20 percent of the region’s territory, is also a major magnet for hunters. Penza forest is home to wild boar, roe deer, moose and even wolves. There is pine marten, foxes, weasels, rabbits, ferrets, as well as game like the black grouse, hazel and wood grouse. The same forest reveals one of the best-preserved and fascinating archeological sites in Russia – the Zolotarevsky excavation. Discovered in 1882, Zolotarevsky conceals three archeological layers – Gorodetsky level from the 3rd century BC, Mordovsky level from the 9th century and Burtasskiy 39 Penz.indd 39 27.10.2011 10:57:05 Russian Travel Magazine from the 11th to 12th centuries. The territory of Zolotarevsky was once the spot of fierce battles between the Russian defenders of the fortress and the Mongol-Tatar tribes, who were on their way to conquer Russia. This fact is still evidenced by a variety of artifacts found in Zolotarevsky, which makes it a truly precious site. The region’s many sanatoriums, spas and health resorts make it a prime destination for health tourists. Kuvaka Springs is an underground mineral water source bottled in the Penza region. Famous for its virginal pureness and healing properties, Kuvaka was the mineral water delivered to the court of Tsar Nicholas the Second. The Kuvaka mineral water plant has since branched out in delicious, albeit less health-conscious soda drinks. Penza is of the most dynamic and fastest-developing regions in Russia, and has recently become a site of several major investment projects, including the folk village Ustinovo, Bekovo and Vladimirovka recreation zones and village tourism enclaves in Neverkinski district. And if you find yourself yearning for something truly otherworldy, you are in the right place, as the Penza Region is a true hot spot for mystical and paranormal tourism in Russia. The village of Belogorka in the Moksha district of the Penza region is a prime location for ghost watching. Restless apparitions are often seen in the ruins of the old church. Local researchers of the paranormal also detected plasmoids emerging sporadically between the church and the old cemetery. According to residents of the village, every May, a cloud-like UFO appears over the river Sura. Equally creepy is the 300-year old white willow, known as the Witch Tree, which grows between the villages of Skripitsyn and Cherkassk. According to a local legend, the tree was an 18th century meeting spot for members of a secret satanic cult. Even now, local people prefer not to pass by the tree at night, afraid of the groans and cries emanating from it. The territory itself is also unusual, as UFOs in the form of mysterious falling balls are also regularly seen in the area. Another highly mysterious place is the Golodyaevsky pond, located some 20 km from the town of Mokshan. Every summer, local residents witness an anomalous cloud, which emerges at about the same time every year and pours rain. In the 1990s red “fireballs” were regularly seen near the old airport in the area. The strange objects nevertheless behaved relatively logically, trying to hide from the eyes of people, appearing in the way of lone travelers, as if to scare them. One such fireball was caught on camera in 1997. UFOs are also a regular sight in the night sky over Mokshan area. Local residents believe that these anomalies have something to do with the local oil pipeline, as UFOs are known to be attracted to electricity, gas and oil pipelines. The Penza region boasts its very own anomalous zone, known as the Issinsky Triangle. The Triangle was formed in the area between the villages Uvarovo, Nikolayevka and Anuchino, near the abandoned village of Kresty. In the 1930s and 40s before the village died out, it was a settlement of molokans, religious castaways who later immigrated to Canada. Unidentified flying objects were a regular sight back then, and mysterious happenings can be witnessed near the extinct village to this day. Bizarre wandering lights emerge every other week over the nearby swamp, as well as what locals describe as “conscious fog”, which appears as if from nowhere, instantly encircling a casual passer-by. In July 2011, locals noted the appearance of crop circles on the fields of the Issinsky Triangle. Specialists link these occurrences with a fossil site nearby, which boats natural fossilized remains from Cretaceous, Jurassic and Triassic periods. ■ 40 Penz.indd 40 27.10.2011 10:57:33 Penza Region 41 Penz.indd 41 27.10.2011 10:57:59 Russian Travel Magazine 42 Vol_new.indd 42 27.10.2011 10:58:54 The Volgograd Region Total Area: 112’900 sq km Population: 2’608’500 Administrative Center: Volgograd Tourist Centers: State “Agency for Tourism Development” of the Committee on Youth Affairs at Administration of the Volgograd Region Time Zone: (UTC/GMT): UTC/GMT+4 How to get there: Flight Munich – Volgograd, journey time 2 hours 30 minutes Flight Moscow – Volgograd, journey time 1 hour 10 minutes By train: Moscow – Volgograd, journey time 18 hours 51 minutes Tourist websites in English: Volgograd State Panoramic Museum “The Battle of Stalingrad” www.panorama.volgadmin.ru Where to stay: • Hotel Volgograd (www.hotelvolgograd.ru) • Hotel Inturist Volgograd (www.volgograd-intourist.ru) • Hotel Yuzhnaya (www.stoliya.ru) Where to eat • European Cuisine: Moliere, Volgograd, Dolya Angelov, Mayak, Fasol, average bill 1000 rubles • American Cuisine: Texas, average bill 500 rubles • Japanese cuisine: Yakitorya, Sakura average bill 500 rubles; Georgian: Na Aleye, average bill 1000 rubles; Czech: Cheshskiy Dvor, 700 rubles; Italian: Rimini, 700 rubles; Arabic: Shafran, 800 rubles; German: Bamberg, 800 rubles; Ukrainian: Gulyai Pole, 600 rubles; Russian: Staryi Stalingrad, 500 rubles. Nightlife and Entertainment Night Club / Restaurants: Mojo, Vosk, News Pub Night Clubs: Amsterdam Karaoke: Labyrinth Safety and Emergency Situations Russian Ministry for Emergencies: +7 (8442) 39-99-99; Rescue Service: 089 (dial 112 from mobile phones. Nearest Foreign Consulates Consulate General of Romania Rostov –on-Don, +7 (863) 230-29-15 , +7 (863) 223-62-93 Consulate General of Slovaki Rostov-on-Don, +7 (863) 221-39-73, +7 (863) 221-39-73 Nearest consulates of other countries are located in Moscow Marshal Kliment Voroshilov holding the sword with the inscription:“To the steel-hearted citizens of Stalingrad - the gift of King George VI - in token of the homage of the British people”, at the Tehran Conference November 28 - December 1, 1943 Tom Beasley forges a sword blade with the inscription“ To the steelhearted citizens of Stalingrad - the gift of King George VI - in token of the homage of the British people” “The Memory Square” in the German military cemetery in the village of Rossoshka Stalingrad, as the city was known until 1961, became the most potent symbol of heroism, sacrifice and defiance of the Soviet people in the Great Patriotic War against Nazi Germany. As the site of the Battle of Stalingrad, Volgograd is a magnet for anyone with a serious interest in war history and the history of Russia. The battle, waged between the forces of Nazi Germany, its allies and the Soviet Union, took place between 23rd of August 1942 and 2nd of February 1943. Not only was it one of the largest and longest battles of the Second World War, it became notorious for the highest death toll of any battle in human history. According to various estimates, just under 2 million people lost their lives in the battle. Adolf Hitler considered Stalingrad a strategically vital area, as it was a major industrial center of the Soviet Union and held access to the vast oil reserves of the Caucuses, which Germany was so starved for. Supported by intensive aerial bombing, which turned much of the city into ruins and burnt rubble, the German offensive ensured that at an early stage, the Wehrmacht controlled much of the city, except a defiant Soviet army cluster on the West Bank of the river Volga. 43 Vol_new.indd 43 27.10.2011 10:59:23 Russian Travel Magazine Volgograd State Panoramic Museum “The Battle of Stalingrad”. The ruins of the Grudinin Mill, monument to the Battle of Stalingrad In November 1942, the Soviet Army’s Operation Uranus commenced, destroying Romanian and Italian forces and surrounding the German 6th army inside Stalingrad. Cut off from its sources of supply and with brutal Russian “General Frost” on the offensive, 290’000 German, Romanian and Croatian troops starved and froze to death under unwavering Soviet attacks. By February 1943, much of the 6th Army has surrendered or was destroyed, prompting German General Siegfried von Westphal to say, “The disaster of Stalingrad profoundly shocked the German people and armed forces alike...Never before in Germany’s history had so large a body of troops come to so dreadful an end.” The Battle of Stalingrad, for its giant human sacrifice, became a decisive turning point of the entire war, having to a large extent crippled the Nazi war machine and convinced 10 countries to enter into war with Germany. Soviet victory at Stalingrad was universally acclaimed as an act of ultimate heroism, with the city being award the Hero City status in 1945. To congratulate Joseph Stalin with turning the tide of the war in his favor, US President D. Franklin Roosevelt wrote in a telegram, “The one hundred and sixty-two days of epic battle for the city which has for ever honored your name and the decisive result which all Americans are celebrating today will remain one of the proudest chapters in this war of the peoples united against Nazism and its emulators.” King of the United Kingdom George the 6th gave the city of Stalingrad a bejeweled ceremonial longsword, known as the Sword of Stalingrad, which was a token of gratitude and homage from the British people to the Soviet defenders of the city. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill presented the sword to Joseph Stalin during the Tehran conference in November 1943, with Roosevelt observing the ceremony. Before Tehran, the sword was showcased like a religious relic all around Great Britain, including the Westminster Abbey. It is currently exhibited at the Battle of Stalingrad Museum in Volgograd. A giant memorial complex was constructed at Mamayev Kurgan, the site of the most merciless fighting during the battle. Both Marshall Vasily Chuikov, who led the Soviet troops in the battle, and the legendary sniper Vasily Zaitsev are buried at Mamayev Kurgan. The complex, built between 1959 and 1967, is dominated by the giant allegorical statue of the Motherland, also knows as “The Motherland Calls!”. With the height of 82 meters from the feet to the tip of her sword, “The Motherland Calls!” was the largest statue in the world at the time of its construction in 1967, and continues to hold the power to inspire awe in observers. The multi-level memorial ensemble for the Heroes of the Battle of Stalingrad is the largest World War Two monument in the world, while the Museum of the Battle of Stalingrad remains the most visited museum in Russia. In a separate building, the museum showcases the grandiose 120-meter long panoramic painting of the battle, while its collection boasts a huge number of war artifacts, including Vasily Zaitsev’s rifle. The city of Volgograd and its surroundings are still rich in evidence of the events, which constitute, perhaps, the greatest chapter in its history. The Pavlov Building in the center of Volgograd was named after Junior Sergeant Jakov Pavlov, whose 30-man unit survived the Nazi assault for 58 days, keeping with Stalin’s Order Number 227 to “not take one step back”. Marshall Chuikov would later say, that “the Germans lost more men trying to capture Pavlov’s house than they did taking Paris”. Another legendary cluster of Soviet resistance is the Lyudnikov Island, “Square of Grief”, monument to the heroes of The Battle of Stalingrad on Mamaev Kurgan 44 Vol_new.indd 44 27.10.2011 11:00:41 The Volgograd Region which was the last point of the defense of the Red October district in the Battle of Stalingrad. With an area of just 700 by 400 meters, the small piece of land became known as the “Fire Island”, for Lyudnikov’s 138th Rifle Division, cut off from the main army and surrounded by Nazi forces, defended the plot of land for 40 days. Lyudnikov Island today is now a quiet picturesque spot, whose last line of defense is marked by tank pedestals and monuments indicating mass graves. “Uniting the Two Fronts” is another monument by the legendary sculptor Yevgeni Vuchetich, who also designed “The Motherland Calls!”. The monument commemorates the completion of encirclement of the 330’000-strong German army, which had broken through to the Volga River. Over 4000 Soviet soldiers are buried in 32 mass graves around the site near the town of Kalach-on-Don. “Remembrance Museum”at TSUM is one of the newer museums in Volgograd. Opened in 2003, it is located in the basement of the Central Department Store (TSUM) at the Square of Fallen Soldiers. TSUM is the oldest store in the city and one of the few buildings that survived the Battle of Stalingrad. The exposition of the museum focuses on the final events of the battle. It was in the basement of TSUM, where General-Field Marshal Friedrich Paulus, who led the 6th Army assault, was captured by the Soviet troops on the 31st of January 1943, just two days before the end of the battle. Despite Hitler’s expectations, Paulus chose surrender over suicide. He later said in captivity, “I have no intention of shooting myself for this Bohemian private”, referring to Hitler. Rossoshka reconciliation memorial, located some 25 km outside of Volgograd, is perhaps one of the more optimistic historic sites. Opened in 1997, the memorial marks a cemetery where more than 50’000 German soldiers are buried, along with fallen Soviet troops. The Soviet cemetery is crowned by a 6-meter high concrete sculpture of a woman holding a tongue-less bell over her head, designed to symbolize all mourning mothers of the war. In a sign of solidarity with victims of Stalingrad, a bronze replica of the Architectural Composition “Fight to Death”, monument to the heroes of The Battle of Stalingrad on Mamaev Kurgan Monument “Uniting Fronts” in the village Pyatimorsk statue was erected in London in 1999, while a statue with a “working” bell was placed in Berlin. The cemetery also features a granite cube, inscribed with names of 120’000 soldiers who are considered missing. As a further symbol of reconciliation, another monument dedicated to victims of the Battle of Stalingrad both from the Nazi and the Soviet side, was inaugurated in the city of Peschanka in 1996. The monument, which was funded by Russian and Austrian civil groups, is unusual, as it expressed in a form of a two-dimensional pyramid, whose shadow side hosts a memorial space. It is not unusual for the visiting German and Austrian delegations to plan their trip along the former front lines that still conceal many disturbing relics of the past. One of the most important war sites in the city is Lysaya Gora, or “Bald Mountain”, named so for the fact that it is almost completely deprived of flora. For it significance as a strategic object in the Battle of Stalingrad, the 140-meter hill is second only to Mamayev Kurgan. Bald Mountain saw one of the fiercest, longest and bloodiest fighting spells of the battle, involving up to 50’000 troops and hundreds of tanks at the same time. Thousands of mine splinters, pieces of bombs and projectiles lie buried in this land to this day. An impressive 20-meter obelisk was installed on Lysaya Gora in 1973 to commemorate the fighters. As far as future development is concerned, the city of Volgograd has some exciting plans. As part of the efforts to strengthen its tourist industry and education sector, the city plans to build a tourist cluster, incorporating five historic museums, which include an interactive park of war-era armoured vehicles and flight combat equipment, a museum of Russian victories, the museum of intelligent sports and the ethnographic museum “Live History. The Land of Freedom”. ■ 45 Vol_new.indd 45 27.10.2011 11:01:10 Russian Travel Magazine 46 12-13.indd Sec3:46 27.10.2011 11:02:15 47 12-13.indd Sec3:47 27.10.2011 11:02:42 Russian Travel Magazine Total Area: 55’000 sq. km Population: 725’000 people. Administrative Center: Pskov Tourist centers: State-funded organization “Tourist Information Center”, located inside the building of the “October” cinema, in front of the entrance to the Kremlin. Address: Pskov, Lenin Square 3 Telephone: +7(8112) 72-25-32, +7 953 242 57 00 ICQ: 611656810 Official inKontakt Page: http://vkontakte.ru/infopunktpskov E-mail: [email protected]. Opening hours: 10am to 8pm daily Local Time (UTC / GMT): UTC +4 Distance and journey time from European cities; • Riga - 300 km (3 hours) • Tallinn - 360 km (4 hours) • Stockholm - 860 km (9 hours) • Helsinki - 700 km (7 hours) Distance and journey time from the US: Plane journey to Moscow (10 to 12 hours) To St. Petersburg (10 to 12 hours) Car or bus journey from Moscow - 689 km From St. Petersburg - 280 km Travel websites in English: www.tourism.pskov.ru Where to stay 1. “Old Estate” Location: Pskov Price per night: 4150 rubles 2. “Dvor Podznoeva” Location: Pskov Price per night: 2750 rubles Where to eat; 1. Grafin Location: Pskov Average bill for one: 300 rubles 2. Restaurant & Beer hall Dvor Podznoeva Location: Pskov Average bill for one: Restaurant 1200-1500 rubles, Beer hall 600-700 rubles, Pirogi hall 150 rubles; Coffee House 200-300 rubles. Night Life and Entertainment • Blues Cafe “Vinyl” Location: Pskov Hours: 09:00 – till the last customer 2. Entertainment complex “LEADER” Hours: 12:00 - 06:00 Safety and Emergency Situations: Ministry for Emergency situations of the Pskov Region is responsible for tourist safety Emergency numbers from a landline: Emergency - 01, 911 Officer for Civil Defense and Emergency situations - 051 Safety and Security Department of Internal Affairs of Pskov - 02 Officer on Duty +7(8112) 66-94-77 Department of Internal Affairs of the Pskov region Officer on duty +7(8112) 66-16-49 Health and Medical Services Regional hospital № 1 44-09-49 Malyasova Street 2 Emergency station - 46-86-05 Kommunalnya Street, 23 24 hour Pharmacy - 72-32-51 October Avenue, 14 Nearest Consular offices of the EU: Consulate General of the Republic of Estonia Address: Narodnaya Street., 25, Pskov, Tel. 8 (8112) 72-53-80 Consulate of the Republic of Latvia in Pskov: Address: Narodnaya Street 25, Pskov, Tel. 8 (8112) 72-53-90 48 Pscv.indd 48 27.10.2011 11:29:10 Pskov Education and Sightseeing The first thing that comes to mind whenever someone mentions the Pskov region is the sheer weight and drama of its history. The region has often been described as the place where Russia itself has originated, and rightfully so. The city of Pskov was first mentioned in the Russian Primary Chronicles in 903, almost 500 years before Moscow. It was in that year when a Varangian ruler of Kievan Rus, Igor of Kiev married a local girl Olga, who later became known as Princess Olga, Olga the Beuitful and Saint Olga for her efforts to establish Christianity in the Kingdom of Great Rus. According to a beautiful ancient legend, Princess Olga was once stunned by a miraculous vision while travelling through her lands. She saw three rays of lights in the sky crossing on a stone, as if pointing to the confluence of two rivers – the Velikaya and the Pskova. It was at that spot where Princess Olga predicted the construction of the Trinity Cathedral, which, as she foretold, would give rise to a glorious city around it. Pskov was also made remarkable by its medieval citadel known as the Kremlin, which was unique for Europe at that time, as it was designed to protect not only the ruling elite but also all of the city’s ordinary citizens. Because of its role as the most western outpost of Russia, Pskov had to build up its defenses over time. The length of Pskov’s defense walls is over 9.5 kilometers, which makes it one of the most fortified cities in Europe. The most impressive building in the Pskov fortress is by far the tower of Intercession. With circumference of over 90 meters, height of over 50 meters and walls that are almost 6 meters thick, the Intercession tower is a true symbol of Pskov’s historical invulnerability. Although Pskov went through numerous wars and battles, it was never captured or besieged by foreign troops. Many other towns and villages in the Pskov region also revoke the country’s dramatic past. One example is the village of Izborsk, some 30 kilometers to the west of Pskov, and which, according to the Russian Primary Chronicles, was the seat of one of Varangian Princes, Truvor, who, along with his two brothers, was summoned to rule over Rus in the 7th century. Izborsk, being crucial for the defense of the kingdom from the West, was also one of the first Russian towns to build a stone citadel. The citadel was so impressive in its invincibility that Izborsk became known as the “Iron City” across Europe. The Pskov region is also home to the Pushkin Hills, an area that once belonged to the noble Pushkin-Hannibal family, and was thus inexorably intertwined with the life of Russia’s most recognised poetic genius – Aleksander Sergeevich Pushkin. The Pushkin Hills house Trigorskoe, Petrovskoe and Mikhailovkoye estates. The latter was where the poet spent his exile and where he completed many of his most famous works, including Eugene Onegin. Finally, not to be missed are region’s numerous churches and monasteries, notable for their outstanding architecture, as well as their religious significance for Russian Orthodoxy. The Pskov-Pechory Holy Dormition Monastery, located some 50 kilometers from Pskov, is one of the oldest and largest monasteries in Russia. Over 10 thousand monks are buried in its famous cave necropolis, a one-time dwelling of the legendary hermit reverend Mark. Other prominent religious sites include Eliazarovsky Nunnery of Our Savior and Krypetsky Male Monastery of Saint John the Evangelist in the Pskov district, Church of Archangel Michael in the Devovichy district and St. Nikandr and Theophilus’s Hermitages, among many others. Auto Sport in the Pskov Region Thanks to its picturesque landscapes, highly developed infrastructure and proximity to the Baltic states, Moscow and St. Petersburg, the Pskov region has become a host to a number of auto rallies and has rightfully earned the title of the auto rally capital of Russia. 13 stages of prestigious Russian Cup and 3 stages of the Russian Auto Rally Championship were held in the region in the last ten years, and this was only the beginning. 49 Pscv.indd 49 27.10.2011 11:29:33 Russian Travel Magazine Every year, from 2011 onwards, the Pskov region will host its own regional auto rally “The Alexander Nevsky Trophy”. With a total distance of over 400 kilometres, the rally is made up of four stages. They include the Pskov Winter stage in February, the Blue Lakes stage held in the early May, while July will see the Strugy Krasnie stage. The final part of the rally happens in September, when the actual trophy is awarded to the winner. Both Russian and international teams participate, and even ordinary viewers can sometimes become judges. Auto Rallies is probably the most exciting recent development in the region, and is already a major reason to come to Pskov for any auto rallying fan or professional. Ethnographic Tourism Although the Pskov Region is for many reasons considered the heart of Russian culture and identity, it has managed to retain some of the smaller ethnicities that historically inhabited the area. Setos are a tiny linguistic and ethnic minority, still living in south-eastern Estonia and in the Pechorsky district of the Pskov region. Setos speak in a dialect, which many consider a separate language – the Seto language, and along with Orthodox Christianity, practice their own traditional folk religion. They are a recognized and protected ethnic minority in Russia, whose total number in the region, according to the Society for Seto Congress, amounts to just 337 people. Being one of the last remaining traditional folk cultures in Europe, Setos struggled to preserve their identity through their own unique traditions, such as singing ancient runic verse and worshipping pagan deities and their ancestors. The Museum of the Seto people is located in the village of Segov, which itself is a part of the Kulaots family estate. The museum aims to showcase the authentic Seto way of life of the beginning of the 20th century. The exposition includes tools for spinning and weaving of tradition Seto clothes, a variety of work and domestic tools, including a unique device for processing flax. Ethnography enthusiasts Tatiana Ogareva set up a small private museum dedicated to the Seto culture in an old barn, which used to belong to a Seto family. The exposition, including unique tapes of traditional Seto singing and touching hand-made dolls make it well worth a visit. Anyone interested in ethnography of the region should also come to the “Setomaa. Family meetings” festival, which takes place annually between the 27th and 29th of August in the village of Sigovo and provides an opportunity for Setos from Russia and Estonia alike to meet and celebrate their traditions. Event Tourism The event calendar of the Pskov Region is packed with interesting happenings, too numerous to write here in their entirety. The “Snow Castle” holiday takes place between the 1st and 10th of January in Pskov’s Pushkin Park. The holiday provides for lots of outdoor fun from riding ice roller coasters to sledging, skating, horse riding and building ice sculptures. The All-Russian Pushkin Theatre Festival takes place every year in the middle of January. The festival, during which various works of Pushkin are performed in the theatres across the region, has long become a tradition in Pskov. Maslenitsa Festival is a week between the 20th and 26th of February, when Russians bid farewell to winter. It is one of favorite holidays among the Pskovites, which culminates with burning of giant symbolic effigies. Eating hearty pancakes is a must. Historical military Festival “Battle of the Ice” happens every year in the end of April near the Samolva village of the Gdovsky district. During the festival, the legendary medieval battle of 1242 between the Republic of Novgorod and the Livonian branch of the Teutonic Knights is re-enacted, a spectacle which is guaranteed to take anyone’s breathe away. 50 Pscv.indd 50 27.10.2011 11:29:56 The All Russian Pushkin Festival is traditionally celebrated in Pushkin’s Mikhailovskoe estate on the 4th, 5th and 6th June. The special days attract thousands of admirers of Pushkin’s genius, who gather for poetry recitals, literary evenings and vigils at the poet’s grave. The International air balloonists competition is a must-see for all lovers of the sport. It takes place in June in the town of Velikie Luki, attracting participants from all over the world. The City Days of Pskov happen every year between the 22nd and 24th of July. An excellent time to visit the city, have a good time at fairs, concerts and exhibitions and get a taste of what it’s like to be a real Pskovite. The medieval “Iron City” of Izborsk is reconstructed every year on the 7th and 8th of August. The event is accompanied by a musical festival, a medieval crafts fair, reconstruction of battles and knight fights, as well as archery and horse-riding competitions. International Classical Musical Festival Crescendo habitually gathers best Russian performers in the end of September in Pskov. Under the helm of its brilliant art director Denis Matsuev, globally recognized pianist and composer, over the past 7 years the festival has turned into a cultural event of a national scale. ■ 51 Pscv.indd 51 27.10.2011 11:30:19 Russian Travel Magazine to se th ost Total Area: 55’ 300 sq km Population: 695’000 Administrative Center: Veliky Novgorod Tourist Centers: Veliky Novgorod, Valdai, Staraya Russa, Lyubytino, Borovichi Time Zone (UTC/GMT): GMT + 3 How to get there: Flight London – St. Petersburg, 4 hours. Plus a car journey to Veliky Novgorod, 3 hours Flight Stockholm – St. Petersburg, 1 hour 25 minutes Tourist websites in English: www.visitnovgorod.com/ catalogue/novgorod Where to stay: Hotel Volkhov, 2900 rubles per night, www.hotel-volkhov.ru/en/ Park Inn by Radisson, Veliky Novgorod, 4200 rubles per night, www.parkinn.com/ hotel-velikynovgorod Where to eat: Russian: Restaurant Yurievskoe Podvorye, average bill 850 rubles Restaurant Dom Berga, average bill 650 rubles European: Khoroshie Lyudi café, average bill 400 rubles Nightlife and Entertainment Entertainment Complex, «Casa del mar» Safety and Emergency Situations Rescue Service 01 (dial 112 from mobile phone) Police 02 Ambulance 03 Nearest foreign consulates are located in St. Petersburg 52 Nov.indd 52 27.10.2011 11:33:39 Velikiy Novgorod F ounded in the 9th or 10th century, it quickly became the second city in the Kievan Rus. Novgorod was also the first city to be governed by an elected mayor, which earned it a title of the cradle of Russian democracy. Novgorod’s relative emancipation ensured it was also the place where a first coin was minted in Russia. To this day, the Museum of Velikiy Novgorod holds the world’s biggest collection of Russian Orthodox icons, while its archaeological sites are one of the most significant ones in the country. The Troitskiy excavation site produced artefacts from more than 20 urban estates from 10th to 15th century and over 400 birch bark documents. All of these archaeological treasures are now on display in Novgorod’s history museum. Novgorod Kremlin, traditionally known as Detinets, is situated in the historical centre of the city, and is officially the oldest fortification in Russia. Built around the Saint Sofia Cathedral in 1050, it boasts the country’s best-preserved 11th century churches and is probably the oldest building complex still in use in Russia. On the other side of the river Vokhov, the commercial part of the city was situated around the Court of Yaroslav the Wise, where the prince’s court was transferred in the early 11th century. Anyone can plunge into the atmosphere of ancient Kievan Russia by visiting the Slavic Village – a settlement recreated on the basis of a 10th century Slavic settlement. The complex is an exact copy of an ancient Slavic village consisting of wooden houses, built without nails: a barn, outbuildings, houses equipped with bread ovens, cellars and much more. Not only can you see exactly how a Russian family lived 1000 years ago, but you’re allowed to participate too. Twist the mill, climb up to the loft, and learn to bake bread in the oven, try on a chainmail and throw a javelin – in one word, feel like an ancient Slav. Staraya Russa The second oldest town in the region is Staraya Russa, located some 99 kilometers south of Velikiy Novgorod. Founded in the early 10th century, Staraya Russa retains many of its idyllic medieval charms, including the Transfiguration monastery, with a cathedral built in 70 days in 1198 and the principal city cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ Fyodor Dostoevsky spent summers in Staraya Russa and wrote many of his works there, which later became staples of classic Russian literature, such as The Brothers Karamazov and The Possessed. The Dostoyevsky House on the small Pererititsa River is still a magnet for literary enthusiasts from all over the world. Staraya Russa is also a balneologic resort, well known for its mineral springs and medicinal silt mud of the Lake Verkhneye and Lake Sredneye, which are celebrated for their healing and relaxing properties. Valdai A small charming town of Valdai is nevertheless one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Russia, not least because of its location in the middle of beautiful Valdai Hills national park. Valdai Hills boasts over 70 lakes, 20 rivers and about 500 archeological monuments, as well as numerous spas and health resorts. In Russia, Valdai is primarily associated with bells, for the local bell masters have been known for their exemplary skill for centuries. The 13th century church of Catherine the Great houses Russia’s only Bells Museum. The island off the shore of lake Valdai is the location of one of the greatest examples of stone architecture in Russia – the Reverend Iver Svyatoozersky Virgin Monastery. The monastery was a major educational center in the 17th century, and had Russia’s only church printing press. ■ 53 Nov.indd 53 27.10.2011 11:34:03 12-13.indd Sec1:54 27.10.2011 11:34:58 The Taste of Russia The Penza Region Penza Fish Cutlets Ingredients: 500 g freshwater fish fillet, 80 g white bread, 1/2 cup milk, 3 tbsp breadcrumbs, 2 tbsp vegetable oil, 1 egg Instructions: cut the stale white bread into pieces and soak them in milk. Pass the fish fillets twice through a meat grinder, mix with bread, add salt, pepper, raw egg and mix until smooth. Add finely chopped green onions. Shape the cutlets and roll them in breadcrumbs. Put in one layer in a heat-resistant bowl, drizzle with butter and bake at 200 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes. The Novgorod Region Velikiy Novgorod Honey Wine Mead, also known as honey wine, is an ancient alcohol drink made of honey that is somewhat of a “Business Card” of Velikiy Novgorod. This classic honey drink has been known since the times of Sadko Sytinich, an epic hero symbolic the city. Ingredients: 150 g honey, 1 liter water, 30 g yeast, 1 g citric acid or lemon juice Instructions: Dissolve the honey in boiling water, cool to 40 to 50 ° C, add the yeast and leave to ferment for 24 hours. Strain the liquid, add citric acid or lemon juice and serve cold. Instructions: heat the milk, add butter, sugar, salt and yeast, and mix well. Add flour and knead the dough. Place the dough in a warm place for 2 hours. Punch out the dough. Boil the mushrooms and chop finely. Clean the onion. Cut it in small pieces and fry in vegetable oil. Add the mushrooms, salt and pepper and cook for 10 minutes, add chopped eggs and greens. Put the stuffing inside the dough and shape the pies, place on the baking sheet greased with vegetable oil. Bake in an over preheated to 180 degrees. The Leningrad Region Kalitki, a traditional Vepsian dish Instructions: Pour salted milk in a bowl, mix with salt and sprinkle with rye flower. Knead the dough and roll it in a shape of a sausage. Cut the shaped dough into pieces. Roll out each piece into thin layers. Place the stuffing of mashed potatoes, millet, barley porridge and oatmeal on top and bend inwards, so that the stuffing is sealed. Bake until the appearance of brown crust. Serve with melted butter. The Irkutsk Region Irkutsk Sturgeon Ingredients: 400 g sturgeon fillet, 1 tbsp flower, ½ of bell pepper, a quarter of a lemon, 50 g of shrimp, 1/2 onion, 50 g lettuce, 2tbsp basil, 2tbsp soy sauce, 1 egg, 2 tbsp olive oil, salt. The Volgograd Region Volgograd Salted Watermelon Instructions: Take small and medium-sized ripe watermelons, wash them, put them in a barrel or another non-aluminum dish, cover with the salt solution (dissolve 600 to 800 grams of salt in 10 liters of water, depending on the size of watermelons) and soak for two days. To speed up the fermentation process, pierce the watermelon in several places with a sharp wooden stick. Add the salt solution in the bowl with watermelon, close with a tight lid and place in a cellar. Storage Store at + 1 C to - 10 ° C for 15 to 20 days. Kamchatka Kamchatka-style Mushroom Pirozhki Ingredients: 60 g butter, 250 ml milk, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 pinch salt, 30 g fresh yeast 400 g, flour, vegetable oil for baking, 300 g mushrooms, 1 onion, 2 boiled eggs, fresh herbs, salt, pepper, 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. 55 12-13.indd Sec1:55 27.10.2011 13:34:37 Cower2-3.indd Sec1:56 27.10.2011 12:55:33