Penshaw Management plan

Transcription

Historic Environment
Survey for the
National Trust
Properties in
Tyne & Wear
Penshaw Monument
Prepared for
Feb 2010
Report No: 0074/1-10
Archaeo-Environment Ltd
Marian Cottage
Lartington
Barnard Castle
County Durham
DL12 9BP
Tel/Fax: (01833) 650573
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.aenvironment.co.uk
Historic Environment Survey – Penshaw Monument, Tyne & Wear
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank the staff at the University of Durham Library (Special Collections
Archive) for their patience and willingness to help, and similarly those at the Durham Record
Office. Thanks are also extended to Jennifer Morrison at Tyne and Wear for HER information
and general advice and discussion. As ever, we are grateful to Harry Beamish of the National
Trust for facilitating the project and providing supplementary information; as well as to Nigel
Davis and Alison Lane for providing SMR data and mapping.
Report Author: Penny Middleton
Mapping: Penny Middleton
Plate 1: The Earl of Durham’s Monument, known more generally as Penshaw Monument, is a dramatic
feature of the Wearside skyline: an iconic building popular with locals and visitors alike.
Proudly standing guard over Wearside, Penshaw Monument certainly is an icon. When
returning from travelling away from the region you always know you are nearly home when
you see Penshaw Monument in the distance…
Comment by Paul Davison from Houghton-le-Spring, May 20061
1
Citing online reference ‘Icons – a portrait of England’ > http://www.icons.org.uk/nom/nominations/penshaw-
monument-sunderland/comments
A rchaeo-Environment Ltd for the National Trust
1
CONTENTS
Acknowledgements
1
Introduction and Summary
4
Aims and Objectives
7
Statutory and non Statutory Constraints
5
Landscape Character
6
Physical Influences
8
Wider Landscape and Historic Influences
10
Cultural Influences and Impact
34
Nature of Archaeological Evidence
39
Previous Archaeological and Historical Research
47
Archaeological Potential and Recommendations for Further Research
48
Statement of Significance
60
Management Concerns and Recommendations
53
Gazetteer
60
Bibliography
69
Appendix A - Summary of Vulnerability, Damage and Recommendations
2
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1:
The National Trust landholding at Penshaw Monument
Figure 2:
The Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Joint Character Area 15
Figure 3:
Prehistoric sites in the immediate vicinity of the landholding
Figure 4:
Line of possible Iron Age defences
Figure 5:
Nathaniel Buck's engraving of Lumley Castle (published in 1769)
Figure 6:
Extract from Saxton’s map of 1552.
Figure 7:
Extract from the 1848 Penshaw tithe map
Figure 8:
An extract from Armstrong's map of Durham dated 1768
Figure 9:
An extract from John Cary's map of Durham published 1801
Figure 10:
Extract of engraving of Cocken Hall (artist unknown) dated to 1724.
Figure 11:
An extract from Greenwood’s map of Durham published 1820.
Figure 12:
Extract from the 1848 Township of Painshaw tithe (©DUSC DDR/EA/TTH).
Figure 13:
Extract from Township of Offerton tithe showing Dawson’s Plantation.
Figure 14:
Portrait of the John George Lambton by Thomas Phillips
Figure 15:
Laying the foundation stone at Penshaw Monument in 1844
Figure 16:
Extract from the first edition 6 inch OS map (1860) showing NT landholding.
Figure 17:
Extract from the first edition 25 inch OS map (1856) showing Penshaw Hill.
Figure 18:
Extract from the second edition 6 inch OS map (1898) showing NT landholding.
Figure 19:
Extract from the third edition 6 inch OS map (1923) showing NT landholding.
Figure 20:
Drawing made from the top of the walkway (unknown artist).
Figure 21:
Two popular images of the Lambton Worm
Figure 23:
Sunderland FC badge
Figure 24:
Illustration of Penshaw Monument appearing in Fordyce (1857)
Figure 25:
Postcard of Penshaw viewed from the Wear (1858)
Figure 26:
NT SMR sites record on the Penshaw Monument landholding
Figure 27:
Condition of NT SMR sites on the Penshaw Monument landholding
3
Introduction and Summary
The National Trust landholding at Penshaw Monument comprises just under 18 hectares of
deciduous woodland, shrub and open grassland, located on the outskirts of Sunderland; 3
miles north of Houghton-le-Spring. The monument itself is situated on the south western edge
of the summit with fine views out over the landscape towards Durham and Chester-le-Street
in the south and west, Newcastle to the north, and Sunderland to the east. Officially known as
‘The Earl of Durham’s Monument’, Penshaw Monument was built in 1844 and dedicated to
John George Lambton, the first Earl of Durham, who was instrumental in the passing of the
Reform Bill in 1832 and later the first Governor of the Province of Canada. However, the
construction of the Monument has partially served to obscure the earlier history of the site
which may suggest that Penshaw is the location of an Iron Age hillfort.
The landholding (Figure 1) comprises the hill summit where, in addition to the monument,
there is also a large 18th century limestone quarry, and an area of deciduous woodland to the
west. The 12 hectares of woodland is divided into two blocks: Penshaw Wood to the south,
and Dawson’s Plantation to the north. The main public entrance to the site is just off the
Chester Road (A183) where there is a large parking area frequently used by cars and
coaches. From this point, three public footpaths lead up towards the monument, the main
track being directly north-west up the side of the hill. There are two other key entrance points
but both without parking. At the north-western end of the site there is access from Grimestone
Bank into the woodland of Dawson’s Plantation, and at the southern end of Penshaw Wood
there is access from Hill Lane.
Plate 2: The monument in its landscape – Penshaw provides spectacular views out across two counties
to the snow capped hills of the Pennines.
Today the site is used predominantly for recreation, although there is some cattle grazing in
the field adjacent to the main parking area. The landholding is used on a daily basis by dog
walkers and joggers, and at the weekend and public holidays the Monument draws a number
4
of day-trippers and sightseers. It is also an important educational resource offering a range of
curriculum based learning opportunities including the natural environment, history, English
and even music.2 In addition, the site is the focus of a number of annual events, not least the
traditional Easter hard-boiled egg rolling competition, and it is a popular spot to witness
fireworks on bonfire night, and to see in the New Year.3
Aims and Objectives
This survey work, commissioned for Penshaw Monument, is to the National Trust’s Level
Three standard. This is a level of survey which combines field work with documentary
research, resulting in a comprehensive survey report of all historic environment features
(National Trust 2000). It also outlines recommendations for management and future research
for both individual features and the landscape as a whole.
A range of sources were consulted as part of the preliminary documentary review including:
historic Ordnance Survey (OS) maps, tithe awards, land deeds, estate papers, census data,
aerial photographs, county histories and other secondary source material. In search of this
information the following repositories were consulted:
•
The Tyne & Wear Historic Environment Record (HER)
•
The National Trust Sites and Monument Record (NTSMR)
•
The National Monuments Record (NMR)
•
Durham County Archives (DRO)
•
University of Durham Special Collections (UDSC)
•
Various online sources as referenced in the bibliography.
A search of the Tyne and Wear Archives was also made but few relevant documents were
identified; although it might be possible to trace the Green’s company archive with a little
more investigation of the records. Additional material was also provided by the National Trust
Archaeologist, Harry Beamish.
The fieldwork was conducted on the 10th February 2010. In advance of the survey, all the
available mapping was printed out and the known archaeological sites plotted. A systematic
survey was then made of the landholding during which the known sites were assessed and
potential new sites plotted. Each site was allocated an identification number and a six figure
grid reference was taken using a hand-held GPS. This should provide an accuracy level of
within 5m, although tree coverage in the woodland may cause some deterioration. A digital
photograph was then taken of each site which included a suitable scale where appropriate.
2
During one of the fieldwork visits to the site, the author observed pupils from a local primary school enjoying an
outdoor music session despite a hailstorm and flurries of snow.
3
Citing online reference http://www.penshawmonument.co.uk/Events1.htm for events held at the site.
5
Every attempt was made to show each site in context in order to help locate it again in the
future. Notes on condition, potential risks and land use were also made in the field and are
submitted as part of the accompanying archive.
Throughout this report the site is referred to as Penshaw, although until fairly recently it has
also been known as Painshaw, and earlier Pencher. To make it consistent the more modern
spelling has been used throughout unless it is a direct quotation, or the variation in spelling is
of specific relevance to the argument.
Statutory and Non Statutory Constraints
Penshaw Monument is a Grade I Listed Building (LBS No. 303203). There are no other
heritage designations either on the site or within the immediate vicinity. However, a number of
environmental designations do apply. The quarry face on the west side of Dawson’s
Plantation (NTSMR 15059) is a designated SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest) because
of the habitat significance of the exposed Magnesian Limestone escarpment. In addition, both
blocks of woodland and the summit of the hill are also considered SNCI sites (Sites of Nature
Conservation Importance) by Sunderland City Council4. Of considerable interest in terms of
the cultural heritage of the site is that a recent report, produced for the Durham Diversity
Partnership, has highlighted that Penshaw Wood could potentially be Ancient Semi-Natural
Woodland (ASNW), although currently defined as Secondary Woodland by English Nature
(Durkin 2008).
The whole of the landholding, and some of the adjacent properties, are also
currently held under Countryside Stewardship.
Plate 3: The exposed Magnesian Limestone quarry face in Dawson’s Plantation, designated a Site of
Special Scientific Interest (SSSI)
4
Citing online reference http://www.cartoplus.co.uk/sunderland/text/appendix_a9.htm
6
These designations have direct implications for the management of the archaeological
resource. In the first instance, the implementation of any remedial or conservation works on
the archaeology would need to take into consideration any potential impact on the ancient
woodland, both direct and indirect. Likewise, the conservation of the natural environment has
the capacity to conflict with the conservation of historic sites. However, in both instances the
risks are perceived to be quite low given that the majority of the archaeology is focused on the
hill summit, away from the woodland area.
Landscape Character
The landholding lies on the western edge of the Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau –
NCA 15 (formerly JCA) - a broad triangular area covering some 44,200 acres, which extends
south-westward from the North Sea coast to the Wear river valley in the west, the lowlands of
the river Tees in the south, and up to the Tyne in the north.5 The area is characterised by the
striking west facing limestone escarpment and the gently undulating plateau; bounded to the
east by the varied scenery of the coastal plain. The escarpment itself has been shaped by a
number of minor streams as well as extensive quarrying in some areas; all of which have
resulted in a series of irregular spurs and vales where broadleaved woodland and scrub
thrive. Rough, species rich grasslands extend across the steeper uncultivated slopes.
Formerly a heavily industrialised area, today the landscape is predominantly arable farmland
with large regular fields enclosed by fences, or low hedges, with few hedgerow trees. Around
the countless former mining settlements, like Shiney Row and West Herrington, there are a
large number of small paddocks, sheds and urban allotments which all form part of the
historic identity of the area. Large areas of post-mining land reclamation, associated with
open cast or slag heap removal, are a key feature in the area and have created modern
landforms which are often deceptive. These have obliterated, or obscured, the underlying
historic landscape in some areas: a prime example of this being the grassland, fields and
lakes of the Herrington Country Park, formerly Herrington Colliery, which lies immediately
south of Penshaw Hill.
Woodland within the character area is generally sparse and restricted to small stretches on
the scarp and the wooded sides of the narrow denes along the coast; vestiges of former
parkland also survive. Plantation woodland has been established in many areas, usually
associated with former quarry sites. Some traditional villages do survive but the majority of
these, like Penshaw, were absorbed into larger mining communities in the early to mid 19th
century. During the same period countless new communities also sprang up along the
5
Citing online reference
http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ourwork/landscape/englands/character/areas/durham_magnesian_limestone_plate
au.aspx , date accessed Feb 2010.
7
plateau. The mining villages are characterised by rows of brick-built terraces, roofed with
slate. However, industrial decline over the past few years has seen considerable economic
hardship in the area leading to widespread dereliction, decline and the demolition of many
properties. Pressure for urban and industrial development have also seen many former
colliery sites becoming industrial estates leaving some residential areas isolated and without
local amenities. However, in recent years this has been somewhat redressed, although the
process is ongoing.
Figure 2: The Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau National Character Area 156
6
Citing online reference >
http://p1.countryside.gov.uk/LAR/Landscape/CC/north_east/durham_magnesian_limestone_plateau.asp; date
accessed Feb 1010
8
Physical Influences
The landholding is dominated by the summit of Penshaw Hill: an isolated knoll, eroded out
from the Magnesian Limestone escarpment. The Magnesian Limestone sequence comprises
a series of sandstones, mudstones, dolomites and evaporites which include important fossil
reef structures and brecciated limestones. These deposits were formed during the Permian
Period some 280 to 225 million years ago. The Permian rocks overlay a sequence of
Carboniferous rocks, deposited between 345 and 280 million years ago, comprising a cyclical
sequence of mudstones, siltstones, sandstones and coal seams which vary in depth and
thickness across the area.
Generally the rock strata have a shallow dip east, towards the coast. As a consequence, the
more resistant Permian strata have formed a prominent west-facing escarpment, later
modified by glacial activity. This feature can be clearly seen running north-south along the
eastern side of the county from South Shields to Heighington. At its northern extent the
landform fragments forming the Cleadon Hills to the west of Whitburn and a series of isolated
knolls including Penshaw Hill, Carr Hill, Hastings Hill and Downhill.
Plate 4: Worked freestone cutting beds associated with large limestone quarry to the northeast of the monument.
The sandstones, limestones and gravels of the Magnesian Limestone sequence have been
quarried and extracted for centuries, with stone for the postulated Roman crossing at Hylton
almost certainly being quarried locally.7 There is considerable evidence of quarrying within the
7
No evidence for the crossing survives today but documentary evidence from the 18th and early 19th centuries refer
to massive stones endangering shipping on the Wear and believed to be associated with a Roman crossing at South
Hylton (TWHER 44)
9
landholding, and Hutchinson makes reference to both limestone and freestone quarries being
in existence on the hill in the 18th century. As is clearly visible from the exposed escarpment
in Dawson’s Plantation, in some areas the stone is poor quality and readily laminates: this
material would have been quarried for lime burning. Lime was used as fertiliser to improve
crop yield and was an important factor in agricultural improvements in the 18th and 19th
centuries. Elsewhere on the site, the poorer quality limestone overburden was quarried away
to access the deeper bedded freestone beneath, which was used for building. The large
quarry to the north-east of the monument (NTSMR 15051) was clearly producing building
stone: the cutting beds still clearly visible and a number of discarded blocks can be seen
scattered around the vicinity.
The landholding encompasses much of the summit of the knoll, although the landform of the
hill extends out further in all directions. To the north and west it drops down gradually towards
the River Wear, rising to a height of 136m OD at the summit. To the south the gradient is
similar with the settlements of Penshaw and Shiney Row located on the lower
slopes just
above the Herrington Burn. However, to the east the incline is significantly steeper, falling in
short increments down towards the Chester Road, before rising again almost immediately
towards Carr Hill at a height of 110m. As such, the natural advantages offered by the
surrounding topography would make Penshaw a prime location for a hillfort; a theory which
will be discussed in more detail in later sections.
Plate 5: possible surviving ancient woodland at Penshaw Wood
On the western side of the holding the land drops down gradually in a series of wooded
slopes. These form part of two blocks of deciduous woodland, predominantly beech, which is
was already clearly established by the publication of the 1848 tithe map (surveyed in 1842).
The name Penshaw is believed to have derived from the Celtic ‘Penn’ for hill and the Old
10
English ‘sceaga’, a small woodland or copse. The name, therefore, would translate as
‘wooded hill’ (Mills 2003). Surtees remarks on a reference to a dense woodland known as
‘Boscus de Pencher’ still surviving in 1617, and it is possible that Penshaw Wood is a
preserved fragment of Ancient Semi-Natural (ASN) woodland.8 A recent assessment of
species types indentified in the wood (Durkin 2008) seems to support this assumption.9 On
the other hand, the name would suggest that Dawson’s Plantation is secondary woodland and
- given the relatively ephemeral nature of the dividing boundary bank (NTSMR 15058) probably quite late. However this does not negate the historic significance of the plantation.
Both ancient and secondary woodland have the potential to preserve a wide range of
evidence associated with their former use. Woodland has always been an important resource
and used for a variety of purposes either directly – wood for fuel, charcoal production,
pannage for pigs, timber for building, coppiced wood for fences and arrow shafts, plants for
medicinal purposes, foods from foraging, and hunting - or indirectly where coal mines, and
other forms of mineral extraction, or industry are located in woodland (Rackham 1998). There
are also a range of features which are associated with the ownership and management of this
valuable resource including woodbanks, woodsman dwellings and access paths. As such,
there is the potential for a wealth of archaeological material to survive in both types of
woodland. In addition to their archaeological significance, both blocks of woodland have
considerable wildlife and habitat value; the ecological communities having potentially
developed over a very long period of time. In all cases, the careful management of the
woodland is essential to ensure the conservation of both the natural and historic environment,
particularly in an area which is so frequently used and enjoyed by the public.
Wider Landscape and Historic Influences
The earliest evidence of human activity in the region dates to the Mesolithic (c.10, 000-4,500
BC) although this largely comprises a series of spot finds found along watercourses or on
fields after ploughing, and as such are often of doubtful provenance. There is some sparse
evidence of settlement along the coast at sites like Whitburn (TWHER 842, 1998,) and South
Shields to the north and at Crimdon Dene to the south-west (AE 2009, 33); although not as
extensive as that found along the Northumberland coast. This may be more to do with the
heavy industrialisation and settlement of the Durham coast, and erosion of the former coast
line, rather than an inherent absence of Mesolithic occupation in the area. Such issues of
preservation frequently influence the survival of archaeological material from all periods
8
Ancient Semi-Natural Woodlands which is believed to have existed prior to 1600. Based on the assumption that
plantation woodland was uncommon before 1600, it is thought that ASNW is likely to have developed naturally from
wildwood, although still a managed resource.
9
Earlier estate maps in the Lambton archive may of course disprove this assumption, and show the woodland to be a
later planting, but as yet this information has not been assessed. Similarly, a study of any surviving charters might in
contrast establish the antiquity of Penshaw Wood.
11
across the area, although the often ephemeral and fragile nature of prehistoric material
makes it especially susceptible. However, prehistoric material does survive, in those areas
where there has not been heavy land use such as hill tops.
Figure 3: prehistoric sites in the immediate vicinity of the landholding
Close to Penshaw, a flint scatter was recorded at the aptly named Flinton Farm just 0.3km
north-east of the landholding (TWHER 253). However, the greatest concentrated evidence of
prehistoric settlement within the immediate vicinity comes from Hastings Hill 0.5km to the
east. Here, a complex ritual landscape has been identified including a hill top barrow (TWHER
113, 151-2) and, in the arable field to the south, a huge interrupted ditched enclosure (some
100m x 60m) (TWHER 109) has been identified on aerial photographs. To the south-west of
the enclosure there seems to be the terminus of a cursus (TW HER 110), or ceremonial
pathway, which comprises two parallel ditches running for some considerable distance. The
barrow was first excavated in 1911 by C T Trechmann, during which considerable amounts of
pottery was recovered - including some complete vessels - allowing the site to be securely
dated to the Neolithic period (4000 BC to 2200 BC).10 Such a concentration of features is
10
Much of the pottery is held at Sunderland Museum, and several of the items from the collection are on public
display.
12
currently thought to be unique in the North East, although there is considerable evidence of
Neolithic burial in the immediate area including Tunstall Hill (TWHER 240) located 5km east,
Copt Hill (TW HER 249) 6km south-west, and Warden Law (TWHER 254-5, 447) 5km southeast.
Given the proximity of the landholding to Hastings Hill, and the significant visual impact of
Penshaw hill within the surrounding landscape, it would seem highly likely that it formed some
part of the Neolithic ritual landscape. From sites across the country there is now considerable
evidence suggesting that landscape elements like hills and rivers were of enormous
significance to prehistoric peoples, not only in a practical sense in terms of providing
resources and defining boundaries, but as part of a complex language of religious symbolism
reflected in both life (the internal layout of dwellings and settlements) and death (hill burials).
This ritualising of the landscape continued to be an important factor right through the Bronze
and Iron Ages.
The Bronze Age period (2500 – 700BC) in the area is characterised by an increase in
woodland clearance and the expansion of agriculture started in the Neolithic. Again, much
recorded archaeology associated with this period has tended to come from burial cairns and
ritual sites, and many of those sites identified within the vicinity of the landholding appear to
have remained in use into the Bronze Age. However, towards the end of the period, and into
the Iron Age (700BC-AD43), evidence of ritual activity appears to decline (AE 2009, 41). It
remains unclear whether this reflects a transformation of Late Bronze Age and Iron Age
societies or simply that ritual practices changed in a way which left very little tangible
evidence.
Evidence for settlement during this period remains sparse in the region, but it would seem
that Early and Mid Bronze Age settlement was similar in form to the Neolithic comprising
small, scattered groups of roundhouses. However, towards the end of the period there is a
marked change towards more rectilinear, or sub-rectilinear, enclosed settlements which are
arguably more defensive in nature than their predecessors (ibid).
There is currently no evidence of Late Bronze or Iron Age settlement in the area surrounding
Penshaw and until recently this was a pattern reflected across the county. A situation which
had led to the area being interpreted as poorly populated, or culturally impoverished, during
this period. However, over the past few years a series of wide area surveys, undertaken using
aerial photography, has changed the consensus of opinion of the Late Bronze and Iron Age in
County Durham and parts of Tyne & Wear. A considerable number of potential new sites
13
have been identified, the majority being situated on the East Durham Limestone Plateau (AE
2009; ARS 2009), although only a small proportion of these have been followed up with
investigation on the ground. The nearest site to the landholding lies 10 km to the south-east at
Pig Hill, Haswell (TWHER 362) where recent excavations, undertaken in advance of a gas
pipeline, uncovered an extensive Late Bronze and Iron Age settlement.
Despite the increase in the number of settlements identified in the county, there still appears
to be very few of the Iron Age defensive hilltop sites which are found across the Tyne in
Northumberland. In the Northumberland National Park alone there are over 50 recorded hill
top fortified enclosures.11 Some of these are what might be termed ‘classic’ hillforts: large
areas of land on a summit enclosed by massive earthbanks which would have involved a
considerable amount of labour invested in their construction. These were probably built to
serve a whole community and may not have been living space but gathering places for tribal
meetings or in times of crisis. One of the largest and most famous of these sites is Yeavering
Bell, but there is also Campville (NCSMR 1152), Humbleton Hill (NCSMR 1544), Bowmont
(NCSMR 805), Fenton (NTSMR 1953), and a number of others. In contrast, south of the Tyne
there appears to be little evidence of such structures apart from Maiden Castle (DCHER
1181), located on the south-east side of the city, and Shackleton Beacon (DCHER 6819) near
Heighington, 46km south of Penshaw.12 Other sites have been mooted including Toft Hill
(DCHER 1674), and Stockerley Beck (DCHER 1813) but not confirmed, and the latter has
now been destroyed by open cast mining. However, it is proposed that there is considerable
evidence which would suggest that Penshaw Hill now needs to be added to the list.13
While there is not the scope in the present document to look at the evidence in detail, there
are a number of key points which point towards Penshaw being a hillfort site. The physical
remains of the ramparts will be discussed in the following section, but in summary Penshaw
appears to be a multivallated contour hillfort with possibly three banks curving around the
south and eastern side of the summit and vestigial remains surviving to the north-west. Based
on information gathered during the recent site visit there appears to be no surviving gate
structure, although a proper survey of the site might provide evidence of this. Similarly, there
is no indication that the defences continued on the west side of the hill. Perhaps surprisingly,
11
http://www.northumberlandnationalpark.org.uk/hillfortheritageintroduction
12
There is a theory that hillforts are sparse in County Durham because it had more fortified enclosures which were
fulfilling the same function but located on flatter more easily farmed land. There are a number of such settlements
identified across the county including Coxhoe West House (excavated by Haselgrove in the 1970’s), Cockfield Fell
and Thorpe Thewles. However, this would not rule out the existence of a small number of hillforts acting as tribal
gathering places.
13
This theory has been discussed for some time, although largely on the internet at sites such as The Modern
Antiquarian http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/2350/penshaw_hill.html#folklore
and Brigantes Nation
http://www.brigantesnation.com/SiteResearch/Iron%20Age/PenshawHill/PenshawHill.htm but, as far as the author is
aware, there has not been a full archaeological assessment of the site and evidence.
14
despite extensive quarrying in the area and the construction of the monument, the ramparts
do seem to survive relatively well, although there are some factors which might threaten their
future preservation.
Figure 4: Line of possible Iron Age defences based on hand-held GPS co-ordinates taken onsite
As well as the preserved remains on-site, there is also considerable circumstantial
archaeological evidence which might point towards Penshaw being a hill fort: not least the
topographic setting of the hill. There are sweeping views from the summit to the south and
west of the East Durham Plateau and out towards the Durham Dales in the distance.
Significantly, there is also a direct line of site to Maiden Castle 13km south-west. To the east,
before the urban expansion of Sunderland and Washington, there would have been views out
along the Durham Coast and beyond to the sea, while to the north the site looks out towards
the mouth of the river. Strategically, the location would have allowed its occupants to monitor
any threat coming from the sea and down the river; as well as attack from the lowland plains
to the south and west. It may also be significant that Penshaw was already part of an existing
ritualised landscape including the cursus and barrow at Hastings Hill. Although these sites are
considerably earlier in date they may have formed part of a ritual legacy. This occurs quite
frequently in later periods with a number of so-called ‘pagan’ sites being absorbed into areas
of early Christian worship, either to give the new religion more credibility or to negate the
15
power of the old gods. This type of ‘borrowed’ symbolism may have influenced the location of
the hillfort and could have been as important to the builders as the defensive (or defendable)
advantages of the site. It would have provided an ancestral link with the past and of particular
pertinence if the hillfort was serving as a community or tribal stronghold.
Recent study into the location of hillforts across the country seems to indicate that their role
varied considerably across regions (Collis 1996). In Northumberland and the Border region
the number of small fortified settlements, and larger hillforts, is probably associated with an
increase in warfare and social instability; a pattern repeated across the area in subsequent
periods. A similar pattern seems to exist in the south where hillforts are particularly prevalent
in Devon, Dorset and Somerset. In these counties hillforts range from the massive
multivallated forts like Maiden Castle (Dorset) and Cadbury Camp (Somerset) to much
smaller banjo enclosures. However, in areas like Yorkshire the distribution of hillforts is very
different. Here, hillforts appear to be located at key points on natural boundaries or borders
and may be acting as a focus of territorial division (ibid). Eston Nab for example, at the
northern end of the North York Moors, may mark the division between the Brigantes of the
North and the Parisi of East Yorkshire. Similarly, Gates Hill Camp at Knaresborough is
believed to be associated with a tribal division along the natural boundary of the River Nidd.
This small univallated hillfort was probably associated with one of the tribes of the Brigantian
confederacy (NAA 2003).
Plate 6: ramparts at Penshaw clearly visible on the hill slope in front of the monument
The Brigantian confederacy, as the name suggests, were not a uniform tribe like their
neighbours the Parisi, but rather a federation of family clans and groups; the name literally
translating as ‘upland peoples’. Their vast territory stretched across the north and included
16
Northumberland, parts of Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire and County Durham. It was divided
into a number of client territories which would have almost certainly relied upon natural
features – rivers, watercourse, hill ranges and valleys - to form clan boundaries (ibid). As
such, the River Wear, dividing the region north and south as it does, is an obvious natural
boundary. If this was the case then Maiden Castle may have been the political centre of the
tribe (or clan) to the west of the river and Penshaw that to the east - both watching each other
across the hinterland.
The final part of the argument lies in the possible echoes of the hillfort in local tradition and
folklore. First of all there is the name of the site ‘Penshaw’, which also appears as ‘Painshaw’,
‘Painsher’ and ‘Pencher’. The prefix ‘Pen’ is Celtic (meaning hill) and is found quite frequently
across the country at sites like Pendle Hill in Lancashire, Penrith in Cumbria and Pen-y-ghent
in Wharfdale, which interestingly means ‘hill of the border’.14 However, apart from the obvious
‘Pennines’ there is no other occurrence of a place name with the prefix ‘Pen’ in County
Durham, Tyne and Wear or Northumberland, despite the upland nature of the terrain. This
might suggest that there was some Celtic – or Briton – legacy association with the site
echoing through into the early medieval period at which time the nearby settlement of
Penshaw was established and given its Old English suffix.
There is also the famous tale of the ‘Lambton Worm’ and its association with Penshaw; an
issue which attracts much heated debate. The origins of the folk tale may go back centuries
but the well known folk song was written by C.M. Leumane in 1867, although it has since
spawned a number of slightly different versions. The tale warrants a closer look later on but of
particular relevance to hillforts are the lines which tell of the worm wrapping his tail ten times
around Penshaw Hill:
An' swally little bairns alive
When they laid doon te sleep.
An when he'd eaten aall he cud
An' he had had he's fill,
He craaled away an' lapped he's tail
Ten times roond Pensha Hill.
There has been much discussion that Leumane was actually mistaken and that the story is
more likely to be associated with ‘Worm Hill’ across the river at Fatfield. However, putting that
argument aside for later consideration, the association of the Lambton Worm with Penshaw
may be another instance of the hillfort being enshrined in folk tradition. D. Cummings, in her
excellent little book on Penshaw writes, ‘Many people who have visited the hill delude
14
Citing online reference - ‘Wharfedale, Yorkshire’ > http://www.yorkshire-england.co.uk/Wharfedale.html
17
themselves into thinking they can spot the ridges on the hillside caused by the worm’s tight
coils’ (Cummings 1996, 26). This may indeed be the case, but perhaps it was the ‘rings’ of the
hillfort ramparts which spawned the imagery in the first place. In addition, the Old English
word ‘Wyrm’ or Germanic ‘Wurm’ more literally translates as serpent or dragon; a beast often
seen in the literature as the guardian of ancient sites. In Beowulf the terrible earth-dragon
‘wyrm wohbogen’ is keeper of an ancient barrow (Swanton 1986, 168), and in Norse tradition
Fafnir turns into a dragon to protect a gold hoard. So again, the ‘worm’ in the legend may
suggest an Iron Age or prehistoric association with the hill; although usually such connections
indicate a former barrow site but there is no surviving evidence of such a feature at Penshaw.
However, neither is there at Worm Hill.
Although there is considerable evidence which would point towards Penshaw being an Iron
Age hillfort, further study might still prove the earthworks to be much later in origin and
associated with quarrying or even the construction of the Monument. However, although this
would account for the main path around the base of the hill it does not really provide an
explanation for the upper and middle ‘ramparts’ or banks which would seem to serve no
practical purpose. One possible alternative to explain the existence of the banks might be as
part of medieval terracing but the evidence for this is sparse, although there is a hint of ridge
and furrow on the flat ground to the east of the Monument (NTSMR 14810).
Figure 5: extract from Nathaniel Buck’s engraving of Lumley Castle, looking southwest (drawn in 1728),
showing Penshaw Hill in the background with possible ‘ramparts’, or terraces, visible on the south side
of the hill (©DUSC XLLL 942.81 BUC)
There is also the fact that none of the earlier county historians mention any ‘fortifications’.
Hutchinson presumably visited the site in the late 18th century, before the construction of the
monument, because he provides an account of the view from the hill top yet he makes no
other comment. The defences are also not shown on any of the early drawings of the site,
although these all post-date the Monument and often show considerable artistic licence in the
18
rendition of the surrounding landscape.
15
The ‘ramparts’ are, arguably, visible at a distance
on an early engraving of Cocken Hall (artist unknown) in 1724 (Figure 10), and again on a
slightly later one of Lumley Castle (looking south-west) made by Buck in 1728.
Undoubtedly, a more rigorous analysis of the evidence, as well as further comparative study,
is necessary to confirm whether Penshaw is, in fact, a hillfort. In particular, an accurate
topographic survey of the remains would be essential, as well as the excavation of a cross
section across the ‘ramparts’ to determine the construction of these features and retrieve
dating evidence; until this occurs the matter remains open to debate.
There is extensive evidence of Roman occupation (AD 43-410) in County Durham and Tyne
and Wear but much of this is concentrated along the path of Dere Street, Hadrian’s Wall or
the coast at natural anchorage points like Hartlepool; very little material has been found inland
on the Magnesian Limestone Plateau (AE 2009, 45). Apart from a coin found at Houghton-leSpring (TWHER 269) and one at Thorney Close (TWHER 261), the nearest concentration of
material comes from South Hylton and is believed to be associated with a postulated Roman
river crossing over the Wear.
The possible crossing at South Hylton is associated with a Roman Road running north-south
along the high ground of the Durham coastal ridge, providing access north to the fort at
Arbeia (AE 2009, 45). The main obstacle to this road would have been the River Wear and
the gorge at Sunderland. There has long been considerable conjecture on the existence of a
Roman crossing at this point. In 1713 there were complaints about ‘ye stones of the old
bridge being a nuisence to the river’ (TWHER 44), and later in 1881 there was a report in the
Sunderland Echo of damage to a dredger when it struck a stone block ‘about five feet square’
(ibid). In 1894 Whellan describes these stone blocks as ‘immense blocks of stone, carefully
wrought and squared, clamped together with iron clamps, run in with lead, and laid upon a
framework of oak timber’ (Whellan, 1894). Some of the stones from the structure were
apparently dumped at the river mouth, and others were said to be used in the construction of
the North Pier (ibid). An article on a local history internet site (author unknown) claims that the
massive blocks of masonry at Penshaw which lie just to the north-west of the Monument, as
well as some of the stones used in the building’s construction, were originally brought from
Hylton following the demolition of the crossing.16 It is true that the stones do appear to fit
Whellan’s description with clear evidence of fittings for iron and lead straps and clamps.
However, given that the Monument was built in 1844 and the dredging incident and clearance
of the river occurred in 1890, it is unlikely that these stones – even if they do prove Roman in
15
There is apparently a painting at Biddick Hall of Penshaw Hill before the construction of the monument this would
be useful to view, as well as any early estate mapping
16
Citing online reference in ‘Brigantes Nation’ >
http://www.brigantesnation.com/SiteResearch/Iron%20Age/PenshawHill/PenshawHill.htm. Accessed Feb 2010.
19
origin - came from the crossing. It is more likely that they were left over from the construction
of the Monument, or even discarded during the National Trust rebuilding of sections of the
structure in 1976.
While there is considerable evidence of Early Medieval activity associated with the nearby
monastic settlement at Monkwearmouth (TWHER 87), 8km north-east of the landholding,
there is no material found within the immediate vicinity of the site. Place name evidence
would suggest that the settlement at Penshaw was early medieval in origin; ‘sceaga’ being an
Old English suffix. This assumption is supported by other placename evidence in the area.
Just to the north of the landholding is Offerton, which is clearly of Old English origin meaning
‘the farm of a person called Offa’ (Offa being an Anglo-Saxon personal name). However,
archaeological evidence in the vicinity is sparse.
The settlement of Old Penshaw lies just over half a kilometre south-west of the Monument.
Originally spelled ‘Pencher’, and later ‘Painshaw’, it first appears in the documentary sources
in Bishop Pudsey’s survey, the Boldon Buke, in 1183. The entry for Penshaw reads:
William Basset holds Pencher in exchange for the land which his father had in Middleham,
except 260 acres as well as land cultivated as moor, which he holds of the bishop in chief, for
which he renders 4 marcs and for certain mill, 2 marcs but the residue of the toen he holds of
Jordan de Escoland of whom he held the land in Middleham (Cummings 1996, 2).
The Escoland family resided at Dalton Tower near Seaham; Jordan de Escoland later
deciding to take the name of his residence to become Jordan de Dalton. In 1362 John de
Denum was leasing Pencher Wood at a rental of 3/4d (Cummings 1996, 4). Then, in 1375 the
vill passed to the Bowes family when the last of the Dalton line, Maud Dalton, married. Soon
afterwards, Bishop Hatfield’s survey of 1380 lists the land under lease to Robert Carlisle,
although part of the vill had been acquired by the Lambtons in 1370 (Hutchinson 1794, 5656). However, the estate was listed as being so poor to be unable to pay the annual tithe to the
See of Durham (Cummings 1996, 4).
In 1419 part of the vill was leased to Roger Thornton (Hutchinson 1794, 565-6) a famous
Newcastle merchant, who was Lord Mayor of the city three times, and Member of Parliament.
Known locally as the ‘Dick Whittington of Newcastle’, Roger died in 1429 and is buried at All
Saints, Newcastle; his land being retained by the Bishop (Cummings 1996, 5).
In 1459 the Carlisle land was held by John Carlisle, knight, who died leaving the estate to his
son, also named John - the last in the family line – who died in 1488. His daughter, Joan,
married Christopher Thirkeld, although by this time much of the land was owned by the
Lambtons. The Thirkeld land, however, passed to the Amcoat family and from there into the
20
Vane-Tempest-Stewart estate, who were eventually to become the Londonderrys and one of
the main coal owning families in the country. It is through this link that part of Penshaw Hill
was owned by Lord Londonderry in 1844 and subsequently gifted by him for the construction
of the Monument.
Penshaw village (TWHER 324) first appears
on Saxton’s map of the Bishopricke of
Durham dated 1552. Along with Offerton, it
is depicted as having a mill - possibly a
descendant of that first mentioned in the
Boldon Book – but no church or chapel; the
closest being to the north at Bedick. The hill
just below the village is probably Penshaw,
although it is shown to the south rather than
the
north.
Herrington
Alternatively
hill.
Warden
it
Law
might
is
be
also
Figure 6: extract from Saxton’s map of 1552
depicted. The township of Penshaw was relatively large, stretching south to Shiney Row, east
to border West Herrington, west to the river, and north to border Offerton. The landholding lies
on the north-eastern edge of the township, with Dawson’s Plantation stretching across the
boundary into Offerton.
Based on the layout of the village shown
on the early 18th century tithe map (1848),
the medieval settlement appears to have
grown up around a cluster of small farms.
The church of All Saints which is shown
dominating the south-west quadrant of the
village was not constructed until 1746.
Land improvements and parliamentary
enclosure has replaced much of the
medieval field system but strip fields still
Figure 7: extract from the 1848 Penshaw tithe map
survive to the north of the village and
fragments of ridge and furrow can still be
seen on aerial photographs. However, survival is sparse compared to areas like Wood House
(TWHER 1907) just to the north-west of the landholding. There is some indication of possible
ridge and furrow cultivation on top of the summit (NTSMR 14810), to the east of the
Monument, but this is very ephemeral.
In March 1644 the strategic advantages of Penshaw Hill once more came to the fore when
the site became a temporary encampment for the Scots army during skirmishes prior to the
21
Battle of Boldon Hill on the 25th of March. The Scots, having unsuccessfully attacked
Newcastle, fled across the river and marched towards Sunderland under the command of
Alexander Leslie, 1st Earl of Leven. They entered the city on March 4th, and Leven was given
quarter by the townspeople who had begrudgingly declared support for Parliament. The event
forced the Royalist field army, led by the Marquis of Newcastle, to launch an offensive. His
forces crossed the Tyne and were joined by 12 troops of horse under the command of Sir
Charles Lucas, as well as reinforcements from Durham.17
On the 6th March the army crossed the Wear at Lumley and moved towards Penshaw where
they were watched by the Scots cavalry who were encamped on Penshaw Hill. After a short
skirmish in the fields nearby, the Scots fell back to Humbleton Hill while the Marquis
regrouped his army at Hastings Hill. The weather was abysmal with heavy snow preventing
fighting, although some skirmishes occurred on the afternoon of the 7th. Eventually, at
nightfall, the Royalists withdrew to the fields around Penshaw village. The following day the
Scots cavalry, reinforced by musketeers, launched another skirmish, but a sudden worsening
in the weather allowed the Royalists to retreat to Durham. An original account, dated 12th
March 1644 tells of events from the Scottish perspective:
‘We passed Were (sic) at the New Bridge at Lomley Caslte (sic), the enemy showing
themselves in a body upon a hill, towards the direction of Newcastle about 2 miles from us.
We quartered that night at Herrington and the villages adjacent and entered Sunderland on
March 4th. All that day and the next was spent in care to supply the army with provisions
which we obtained with no small difficulty, being enemies of the countrey (sic) for so we may
call it, the greater part of the whole countrey being either willingly or forcibly in arms against
Parliament and afford us no manner or supply but what they part with against their wills.
On the Wednesday the forces of Durham and Newcastle…did show themselves on the top of
a hill about three miles distance from Sunderland. On the following day the enemy drew up
their forces upon High Ground about two miles from us. We advanced to them as they
marched northwards, as it conceived to gain the wind, both armies were drawn in battle, the
enemy having advantage of ground, because of ditches and hedges. However, there was no
contact between the forces and the enemy retreated. On the Friday there was some
skirmishing between parties of horse. Ground was gained by the Scots and the King’s horses
retreated. Finally a great snow storm ended everything.’
(Cummings 1996, 27)
During the 17th and 18th century a number of small scale maps appear featuring the area
17
Citing online reference ‘The Siege of Newcastle ‘http://1644-siegeofnewcastle.8k.com/newcastle.htm, accessed
various
22
around Penshaw, but all are based on Saxton’s earlier map and show very little variation
except for the addition of a church or chapel depicted on the Joan Blaeu map of 1662.
Armstrong’s map of 1768 is the first to show Penshaw Hill, although again this is a small scale
map. However, what is interesting about Armstrong’s map it that it does show the hill as
having a set of concentric rings which do not really reflect the natural contours of the hill. The
rings are rather large but could be referencing the hillfort ramparts, albeit with considerable
artistic licence. John Cary’s later map of 1801 shows the hill with more realistic contours. Both
maps show the new Chester Road Turnpike running to the south of the landholding, later
becoming the A183.
Figures 8 & 9: extracts from Armstrong’s map of 1768 showing the concentric rings of Penshaw Hill, and
John Cary’s later map of 1801
Penshaw is also shown in the distance in at least two engravings of the area, both dating to
the early. The first is of Cocken Hall, and is believed to have been drawn by John Carr in
made in 1724. The second is of Lumley Castle by Nathaniel Buck, drawn in 1728. In both of
these drawing the ‘ramparts’, or terraces, seem to be shown on the south side of the hill. The
Buck drawing also shows Old Penshaw just nestling at the base of the slope.
Figures 10: extract of engraving of Cocken Hall (artist unknown) dated to 1724. Extract shows Lumley
Castle (2) on the left side of the picture, and Penshaw Hill (6) on the right side with ‘ramparts’, or
terraces, again visible on the south side.
23
The construction of the turnpike was just one of a number of advances beginning to change
the face of the local landscape in the 18th century. With the rise of industrialisation new
collieries were beginning to spring up all over area, connected by a series of horse drawn
waggonways. In addition, a large number of quarries, gravel works and sand pits were
opening across the Limestone Plateau producing building stone, as well as aggregate for
railway construction, sand for the glass works and iron foundries, and lime for fertiliser.
Greenwood’s map of 1820 shows the process of expansion already well under way. Coal
staithes are shown across the river at Washington, and the area is criss-crossed by a series
of waggonways including the Hetton Coal Company Railway to the east of Hastings Hill, and
the beginnings of the Lambton Railway. The map also shows the new mining village aptly
called ‘New Painshaw’ to the south-west of the old settlement. It was established soon after
New Penshaw Pit was opened in 1792 and provided accommodation for the workers there
and for the nearby Penshaw quarry and iron foundry.
Figure 11: an extract from Greenwood’s map of Durham published 1820.
Greenwood’s map is the first detailed glimpse we have of the area and clearly shows the old
township boundaries. It also shows Penshaw Wood obviously in existence by the end of the
18th century, but not Dawson’s Plantation. Penshaw Hill is shown though none of the quarries
appear, although several quarries are shown in the area. The smaller quarries on the
landholding may not have been depicted at this scale but it is seems odd that Penshaw Hill
quarry, the large works to the east of the Monument, would not have been shown (NTSMR
15051). The quarry does clearly appear on the later tithe map of 1848 but might have
expanded considerably in the second quarter of the century. Hutchinson, writing in 1794 does
refer to both ‘limestone and free-stone’ quarries already in existence on the hill (Hutchinson
1794, 565).
24
This eminence is the property of general Lambton, and now bears oak and other timber on its
skirts, and contains lime-stone and free-stone quarries, with several valuable mines of coal.
The prospect from thence is extensive and noble, comprehending many chief objects in the
eastern part of the county, with a beautiful tract of country towards the south and the west, in
which the city of Durham and Chester are particularly conspicuous’.
A description of Penshaw Hill at the end of the 18th century in Hutchinson’s ‘The History and
Antiquities of the County Palatine of Durham’, 1794; 565
Figure 12: extract from the 1848 Township of Painshaw tithe (©DUSC DDR/EA/TTH).
The tithe map of 1848 is the first large scale map of the landholding. The Monument (NTSMR
15050), built in 1844, is shown as well as Penshaw Hill Quarry (NTSMR 15051) and the high
level quarry track (NTSMR 15055) running just below the hill and connecting with Hill Lane,
leading to Old Penshaw. The southern end of the landholding fell within the jurisdiction of the
township of Penshaw, while the northern section lay in the township of Offerton. Within the
landholding, the apportionment book does not provide details for Penshaw Hill Quarry (plot
60) although the document summary does state that ‘a modus of prescriptive payment of the
annual sum is payable to the rector by the occupier of a certain ancient hill of the said
Township, Penshaw Hill of which the most noble Charles William Henry Marquis of
Londonderry is held’ (DDR/EA/TTH). However, the land around the Monument, known as
‘Penshaw Hill Field’ (Pasture) was owned by the Earl of Durham and leased to Thomas
25
Humphrey. Humphrey leased a considerable amount of land surrounding the Monument
including ‘East Field’ (plot 59) just to the north of the landholding, ‘West Hill Field’ (plot 64) to
the south-west, and the equally adventurously named ‘West Field’ (plot 56) and ‘North West
Field’ (plot 57) to the west. None of the other field names in the area provide any insight into
the earlier history of the hill.
Penshaw wood is clearly shown on the tithe
but is not detailed in the apportionment book;
however, it was part of the Earl of Durham’s
estate and noted on the Offerton tithe as ‘land
held by the executors to the late Countess’ of
Durham. Dawson’s Plantation is shown on the
Offerton tithe, and is clearly already well
established. Again,
it is not specifically
referenced in the apportionment book but was
part of the Earl of Durham estates.
Figure 13: extract from Township of Offerton
tithe showing Dawson’s Plantation (plot 87).
The tithe was published very soon after the construction of Penshaw Monument and was
almost certainly being surveyed while the building was being constructed. The Monument’s
official title is ‘The Earl of Durham’s Monument’, although these days it has become rather
more associated with the place rather than the man. The ‘Earl’ in question was John George
Lambton, the first Earl of Durham, born on the 12th April 1792 who died on the 28th July
1840. The Lambtons were a historically important local family who had owned Penshaw and
much of the surrounding land since the medieval period; their ancestral home being just to the
south-west of the landholding at Lumley castle.
John George Lambton was the son of William Henry Lambton and Lady Barbara Frances, the
daughter of George Villers 4th earl of Jersey. During the 18th century the Lambtons had
amassed a huge fortune from mining and become one of the richest and most influential
families in the region. John George had been educated at Eton, and then joined the 10th
Dragoons, holding a commission between 1809 and 1811. In 1812, at the age of just 21, he
followed his father into parliament as MP for Durham. He held the Durham seat until January
1828 when he was created Baron Durham on the death of his father. He later became
Viscount of Lambton, and in March 1833, was created the First Earl of Durham. In 1830,
when his father-in-law, Lord Grey, became prime minister he was sworn in as a member of
the Privy Council and appointed Lord Privy Seal (Cooper 1959).
26
Lambton was an active Whig politician, earning the
nickname ‘Radical Jack’ for his part in the Great Reform
Bill of 1832. As the name suggests, the Reform Bill
changed the face of British Politics, removing the old
‘rotten boroughs’; areas with small populations which had
been a legacy pre-industrial settlement. These had been a
great source of political manipulation and had meant that
the huge new communities growing up around the new
mines, quarries, mills and foundries had no parliamentary
representation. In addition to breaking up the rotten
boroughs, the Act also increased the number of individuals
who were entitled to a vote, increasing the size of the
Figure 14: portrait of John
George Lambton by Thomas
Phillips
electorate by 50 – 80% (ibid).
In 1835 the Earl was sent to Russia as Ambassador. He
stayed in the country for two years before being sent to Canada in 1837 as GovernorGeneral. He was sent to Canada to investigate the circumstances surrounding the rebellion
between Upper and Lower Canada and quickly set about providing recommendations for the
introduction of a responsible government system; though this was not introduced until 1848.
However, Lambton only remained in Canada for five months, having to resign due to poor
health. He returned to England, but died two years later at Cowes on the Isle of Wight on the
28th July 1840.
He was buried in the family vault at Chester-le-Street on the 10th of August. Almost 50,000
people lined the streets following the funeral cortege, confirming how popular the earl had
become amongst the local people. Shortly after his death, it was proposed that a public
monument was erected to his memory. A subscription list was opened and over £3000 was
soon raised. Land for the construction of the monument was gifted by Charles Vane, the third
Marquess of Londonderry, and on the 28th August 1844 Thomas Dundas, the 2nd Earl of
Zetland, and Grand Master of the United Grand Lodge of Freemasons, laid the foundation
stone of Penshaw Monument. It was estimated that the ceremony was attended by over
30,000 dignitaries and onlookers.18
The original inscription at the base of the foundation stone, which has since been erased, but
replaced by the Trust with a later plaque, read:
This stone was laid by Thomas, Earl of Zetland, Grandmaster of the Free and Accepted
Masons of England, assisted by the Brethren of the Provinces of Durham and
18
Citing online reference ‘The History of Penshaw’ > http://www.penshawmonument.co.uk/History1.htm
27
Northumberland, on August 28th 1844 being the Foundation Stone of a memorial to be
erected to the memory of John George, Earl of Durham, who after representing the County of
Durham in Parliament for 15 years was raised to the Peerage, and subsequently held the
offices of Lord Privy Seal, Ambassador-Extraordinary and Minister of the Court of Petersburg
and Governor-General of Canada. He died July 28th 1840, in the 49th year of his age. This
monument will be erected by the private subscriptions of his fellow countrymen, admirers of
his distinguished talents and exemplary private virtues (Cummings, 1996; 28).
Figure 15: laying the foundation stone at Penshaw Monument in 1844 (although the Monument looks
to be already considerably advanced).
The first 6 inch to 1 mile (1860) OS map shows massive industrial expansion in the
surrounding area in the thirty years following Greenwood’s map. New Penshaw Pit was
closed in 1833 after proving uneconomical to run and Lord Londonderry opened a new
colliery at Whitefield, 1.5km south of Penshaw Hill. Whitefield (opened in 1830) had become
known as Painshaw Pit by 1860 and was served by the Londonderry Railway taking coal west
to the Penshaw Staiths. A number of new waggonways were also opened up or older ones
extended, including the important Lambton Railway which ran to the east of the landholding.
By 1860 the waggonways were being rapidly replaced by locomotive railways including the
North Eastern Railway running to the west of the site.
28
Figure 15: extract from the first edition 6 inch OS map (1860) showing NT landholding in red .
However, in the immediate area of the landholding quarrying was far more important in the
late 18th and early 19th century than mining. There are a number of limestone quarries
shown on the first edition map; some of which are quite considerable in size. At one time
there were known to be six large quarries operating in the Penshaw area - Flinton Hill,
Penshaw Quarry, The Old Quarry, Cross Rigg Quarry, Long Pasture Quarry and, of course
Penshaw Hill - as well as numerous smaller quarries and sand/gravel pits (Cummings 1996,
10). The larger quarries yielded limestone, sandstone, gravels and sand all used for a variety
of purposes. Sandstone, rather than limestone, was favoured for building stone, and Penshaw
was renowned for the quality of its freestone, some of which was used in the construction of
London Bridge as well as other more local building projects including Newcastle High Level
Bridge, Seaham Harbour Docks and Sunderland pier (Whellan 1894, 828). Sandstone, or
firestone, was also used for lining foundry furnaces. Much of the Magnesian Limestone in the
area, however, was too crumbly and coarse for building purposes and was instead burnt in
kilns to provide lime for the glass making industry at Sunderland or for fertiliser. There are a
large number of limekiln sites shown on the first edition OS map. The 25 inch map, published
in 1856, shows a kiln in the middle of Penshaw Hill Quarry, although only fragmentary
evidence of that now survives.
29
Figure 17: extract from the first edition 25 inch OS map (1856) showing Penshaw hill.
As well as the larger quarries there were also numerous smaller pits which are shown on the
first edition maps. Three ‘old’ Limestone quarries (NTSMR 15052, 15053/14801 & 15054) are
shown on the 25 inch OS map, located around the Penshaw Hill scarp. These were probably
established in the 18th century and used for local purposes; presumably predominantly for
lime burning given the quality of the stone. There were also sandpits and gravel pits operating
in the immediate area. Just to the east of the landholding, Penshaw Sand Pit (NTSMR 14811)
is shown on the 6 inch OS map.
Stone quarrying was enormously important to the local communities in the area and was a
family industry with fathers and sons being employed for generations. Quarrymen had their
own style of dress which included tying up their trousers just below the knee in order to leave
freedom to bend; a manner very distinct from hoggers or pitmen (Cummings 1996, 11). Many
of the Penshaw quarrymen would have lived in Old Penshaw, although as the industry
continued to grow to meet escalating needs accommodation expanded to other industrial
settlements like Shiney Row, Herrrington and New Penshaw.
On the west side of the landholding, the 25 inch OS map shows ‘Painshaw and Dawson
Wood Plantation’: this is the first detailed plan of the woodland. The main features in this area
comprise a path running north to south through the woodland (NTSMR 15062), as well as the
dividing township bank (NTSMR 15058) and a small structure, possibly a woodsman’s
cottage (NTSMR 15061), in the north-west corner of Penshaw Wood. The woodland path -
30
and all the other tracks shown on the map – are probably old access routes, however, it
should also be remembered that the Monument would have attracted a number of new
visitors to the area following its construction. It is possible that some of these paths were
constructed or enhanced to provide ‘walks’ for visitors to the site. The main woodland track
might even have been a ‘ride’, similar to those at Cragside and at nearby Ravensworth castle;
although, admittedly the views from here would have been rather poor.
Figure 18: extract from the second edition 6 inch OS map (1898) showing NT landholding.
The second edition 6 inch OS map, published in 1898, shows very little variation from the first
edition map. The main change in the general area was the closure of many of the quarries
and a change in economic focus as more new coal mines were opened, including Herrington
Colliery opened in 1874 (Penshaw Colliery having closed in 1874). Advances in rail transport
also meant that the waggonways disappeared and the railways were rationalised, with a
series of standard gauge lines running to the staithes on the Tyne and the Wear, each linked
to the new collieries by dedicated spurs. On the 1898 map, a large number of quarries in the
area were depicted as being ‘disused’ including Penshaw Hill Quarry, and others were simply
referred to as ‘old’ which probably means they were no longer in production. Those quarries
which continued were all located close to railway lines, including Cross Rig Quarry at New
Penshaw which grew considerably in the second half of the 19th century.
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Figure 19: extract from the third edition 6 inch OS map (1923) showing NT landholding.
The third edition 6 inch map, dated 1923, shows considerable expansion of West Herrington
colliery as well as the continued industrialisation of both banks of the river. Many of the
surrounding settlements continued to expand. At Old Penshaw (first appearance on the OS
mapping of later spelling of Penshaw) there is new development on the south side of the
village. By the end of the 19th century the population of the Penshaw Township had grown
from 1399 in 1801 to over 3,000 (Whellan 1894, 828). Some men remained employed in
quarrying but the vast majority were miners, or worked at the nearby Painshaw Foundry,
south of Shiney Row. A number of new municipal buildings were constructed to serve this
growing population, including Methodist chapels at Penshaw and New Penshaw and a school
on Back Lane.
The 25 inch to 1 mile OS map shows very little change on the landholding. The tracks remain
largely unaltered, but the former township boundary in between Penshaw Wood and Dawson
Plantation is marked ‘def’ meaning that it was no longer definable on the ground. The small
building in the north-west corner of the woodland block (NTSMR 15061) is also not shown.
The only main change from the second edition map is that a new area of quarrying is shown
on the eastern side of Dawson’s Plantation (NTSMR 15059). However, it would seem unlikely
32
that this was newly opened and may have just been an omission from the earlier maps.
Thankfully, Penshaw Monument escaped any damage during the war; although there were
raids at nearby Houghton-le-Spring. Most of the heavy raids of 1940 and 1941 were
concentrated on the docks and industry to the east at Sunderland, or further north at Tyne &
Wear; although the Monument probably served as an excellent reference point for enemy
pilots.
Just prior to the war, in 1939, John Lambton, the 5th Earl of Durham, presented the
Monument to the National Trust as a gift to the nation. In 1982 the surrounding land on the
summit, and the adjacent woodland to the north-west, were purchased with grant aid from the
Countryside Commission. Today the Monument and surrounding park remain a popular
attraction with thousands of visitors every year.
Figure 20: drawing made from the top of the walkway (unknown artist) (Cummings 1996, 30).
Since its construction the site has always proved popular, but one holiday visit on Easter
Monday in 1926 was to end in tragedy when a 15 year old boy, Temperley Arthur Scott, of
Castle Street, Fatfield, fell 70 feet (20 metres) to his death on the flagstones. It is incredible to
believe in this age of Health and Safety that there was once public access to a narrow
walkway around the top of the monument via a spiral staircase in one of the columns.
Temperley had been visiting the site with three friends when he fell. Witnesses say that the
boy had already been around the building twice and was trying to navigate a path round a
third time when he fell. An inquest into the boy’s death was held on the 7th of April 1926 at
the Primitive Chapel, Fatfield.
33
The father of the deceased said his son was an apprentice mason and was used to being on
heights. He did not suffer from giddiness. Albert Hind (15) of Lambton Street, Fatfield who
was an eye-witness of the occurrence said that, including himself and the deceased boy, four
of them went to the top of the monument. Their object was to admire the view from the height.
In order to pass from one side to the other on the top of the monument they had to pass
round the ends where there was no protecting wall. There was, however, a protection on each
side. There were about 20 people on the top at the time.
The four boys, the witness said, went round the top of the monument twice and then decided
to walk round a third time. Hind, and a boy named Mitchell were sitting watching Scott and
another boy following. Scott, while walking, appeared to stumble forward, witness and
Mitchell, who were then sitting in the middle of the peak, thought he had caught his foot on
the masonry. Scott was hurrying to reach his companions, when he stumbled and fell, he
rolled once over and then disappeared over the edge of the monument. When he stumbled he
was then about 3 ft from the edge. Witness said that he heard the thud and when he got to
the bottom of the steps they saw a crowd around the boy.
The boy Hind, assured the Deputy Coroner there had been no ‘skylarking’. There was a
notice, the boy said, warning persons that they went to the top at their own risk. It seemed a
terrible height from the ground but Scott did not complain of being giddy. Ernest Mitchell (15)
of 31 Castle Street, Fatfield, who was one of the four boys who mounted to the top of the
monument together, said that there was no wind while they were on top. He corroborated the
other boy’s statement that there had been no joking or racing.
PC McKay, stationed at Shiney Row said that when he got to the monument, Dr Eccles of
Herrington had been and pronounced life extinct. It was quite an ordinary thing for people to
go to the top at holiday times. There was nothing to prevent a person slipping off the peak
and rolling off the end of the monument, and from the worn appearance of the stonework on
the top of the peak quite a number of people had crossed from one side to the other. Although
not called as a witness, Mr. J. Colpitts, who has the charge of the keys of the monument,
informed the Deputy-Coroner that the monument had been erected 82 years and it was the
first fatal accident that had occurred
Report of the inquest in The Sunderland Echo (Cummings 1996, 29)
The Deputy Coroner, returned a verdict of Accidental Death, stating that
‘it was a terrible accident to have occurred and they must have the greatest sympathy with the
parents of the boy. He suggested that iron railings with spikes should be put up at the sides to
34
prevent people getting round and if that could not be done then he could only suggest that the
place be locked up and the public not admitted’ (Cummings 1996, 30).
Since that date the door leading to the top of the monument has remained firmly locked.
Cultural Influences and Impact
Among local people, Penshaw Hill is inextricably linked with the legend of the Lambton Worm.
According to the legend, around the time of the crusades a fearful ‘worm’, or dragon,
terrorised the area but was dispatched by the brave Sir John Lambton, a knight and heir to
the Lambton estate which included Penshaw.
As a young man, Sir John, a rather rebellious boy, missed church one Sunday morning to go
fishing on the river Wear while all the villagers and residents of the estate and castle were
worshipping at Brugeford Chapel. After a while of catching nothing, our gallant hero hooked a
great fish, which he wrestled with to the shore. The nature of his catch varies from tale to tale;
some mention a small eel or lamprey-like creature, others a worm no bigger than a thumb.
However, the most popular renditions seem to plump for a huge creature resembling a snake
with head of a salamander and needle sharp teeth. 19
Cursing, and no doubt in a state of some panic, the young man is wondering what to do when
he encounters an old man who looks at the creature and crosses himself, advising Lambton
not to throw it back in the river saying ‘It bodes not good for you but you must not cast it back
in the river, you must keep it and do with it what you will.’ The old man then promptly
vanishes, as is their want in such tales.
Walking back to the castle, the young Lambton muses on the old man’s words and is swept
by a feeling of unease. He decides to throw the creature down an ancient well on his way
home – Worm Well at Fatfield being associated with this aspect of the legend.
As the years pass John Lambton grows to becomes a renowned knight and goes off to fight
the infidel in the crusades, not knowing that the ‘worm’ is growing in strength in the depths of
the well. The waters of the well become undrinkable and strange vapours arise from it
convincing the villagers that it is cursed and the home of a demon. Until one night, when the
creature had reached full maturity, it slips out of the well to begin a reign of terror across the
local countryside, returning at night to wrap itself in slumber around Penshaw Hill.
19
Citing various online references including > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lambton_Worm and
http://www.unmuseum.org/lambtonworm.htm
35
This feorful worm would often feed
On caalves an' lambs an' sheep,
An' swally little bairns alive
When they laid doon te sleep.
An when he'd eaten aall he cud
An' he had had he's fill,
He craaled away an' lapped he's tail
Ten times roond Pensha Hill.
Various villagers and knights try to slay the monster but to no avail. Eventually, the young Sir
John returns to find his father’s lands laid waste by the creature. He seeks the advice of a
local wise woman who tells him to go to a blacksmith in Brugeford who would make him a suit
of armour that would withstand the beast’s wrath. The next day the knight engages the beast,
and after a fearful battle he tires the creature and eventually despatches it by severing it in
two.
Ov brave an' bowld Sor John.
So hyem he cam an' catched the beast,
An' cut 'im in twe haalves,
An' that seun stopped hes eatin' bairns
An' sheep an' lambs an' caalves.
Unfortunately, the price of the knight’s victory is that he must promise to kill the first thing that
crossed his path on his return to the Lambton Castle. To accommodate his oath, he arranges
for the servants to release his favourite hound when he sounds a horn signalling his return,
but they forget and instead the knight is greeted and embraced by his grateful father. Sir John
blows his horn again and kills the hound but he has broken an oath. As a consequence it was
said that for generations no Lambton died at home safe in their beds but came to a series of
rather nasty and untimely ends.
The folk tale has evolved into a number of different versions, and in 1867 C.M. Leumane
wrote the famous folk song about the worm. In 1911 Bram Stoker, the Anglo-Irish novelist,
more famously connected with Dracula, wrote ‘The Lair of the White Worm’ which was based
on the Lambton legend. Stoker was an avid collector of folk tales and legends, and his
position as business manager for the Lyceum Theatre took him all around the country. The
Lair of the White Worm was actually to be his last book and was written the year before he
died. In the 1990s, the novel became the basis of a film of the same name by the director Ken
Russell, starring a young Hugh Grant as a descendant of Sir John Lambton. The legend has
also been turned into an opera written by Robert Sherlaw Johnson and Anne Ridlerin in 1978
36
One of the biggest controversies surrounding the tale has always been whether the ‘hill’ in
the story is ‘Penshaw’ or ‘Worm’ Hill at Fatfield just across the river. Popular opinion seems
to favour the latter but if Penshaw was a hillfort with ‘ring’ defences then this might have been
attributed by folk legend to the curls of the worm around the hill. Hillforts have often become
entrenched in local myth. At Wandlebury, a dark Knight, who no mortal could defeat, was
said to rule land20 and at Bradbury Rings there are famous links with King Arthur, who
actually seem to have been associated with a large number of hillforts at one time or another.
However, we must also be aware of taking the legend too seriously. It is, after all, a story and
possibly the greatest significance of the Lambton Worm is that it has the potential to attract
children and others to the rich cultural history of the site and the wider area.
Figure 21: two popular images of the Lambton Worm, the second showing the evil ‘wurm’ looped round
Penshaw Hill.
Famous People Associated with the Site
Of course John Lambton, the first Earl of Durham is probably the most famous person
associated with the site but there are others significant individuals connected with Penshaw.
The designers of the Monument, John and Benjamin Green, were both important local
architects responsible for a number of influential municipal buildings around the region. The
father and son team worked together in partnership extensively across the North East in the
early to mid 19th century.
John Green (1787–1852), the father, was born in Nafferton, Northumberland and after several
years working with his father, a carpenter and maker of agricultural implements, moved to
Newcastle in 1820 to set up his own business as an architect and engineer. He had two sons,
John (c1807-68) and Benjamin (c.1811-58) who both became architects; the latter working in
partnership with his father on a number of major projects.21
20
Citing online reference http://www.cambridgeppf.org/wandlebury-myths-and-legends.htm
21
Citing online reference Oxford Dictionary of National Biography >
http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/37482?docPos=2
37
Soon after setting up the company in 1820, John won a prestigious contract to design a new
building for the Newcastle Literary and Philosophical Society in 1822. However, he was
principally an engineer and designed a number of the region’s road and rail bridges, including
two wrought iron bridges - one across the Tyne at Scotwood and the other across the Tees at
Whorlton. He later submitted plans for the High Level Bridge but was rejected in favour of
Robert Stephenson’s design. However, he continued to have success and was elected to the
Institution of Civil Engineers in 1841, particularly for his revolutionary design of laminated
timber arches.
His son, Benjamin, was a pupil of Augustus Charles Pugin, father of A.W.N. Pugin the
influential Gothic revival architect and theorist. However Benjamin, like his father, favoured
classical forms of architecture; although the two men varied considerably in the form this took.
John was described as a ‘plain, practical, shrewd man of business’ who designs were ‘plain,
severe and economical’ in style, whereas his son was described as an ‘artistic, dashing sort
of fellow’ with a tendency towards the ‘ornamental, florid and costly’.
As a partnership, the two continued to work on contracts for the large Railway companies and
are were involved with a number of main line stations between Newcastle and Berwick. They
also worked on a series of major churches including Earsdon and Cambo, on theatres and
musical halls, and on civic buildings such as the Witham Hall in Barnard Castle. In 1836 the
firm became involved in Richard Grainger’s plans to radically re-develop Newcastle city
centre; their contribution to the neo-classical elegance of this venture was the Theatre Royal
(1836-7) and Grey Column (1837–8).
John Green died in Newcastle on the 30th September 1852; his son just six years later in
1858. Although the Green’s designed the monument it was executed by the Sunderland
engineer Thomas Pratt. However, very little seems to be known about Pratt’s life or work.
Others who share some connection with the site include Roger Thornton, the 15th century
‘Dick Whittington of Newcastle’, mayor of that city three times (Cummings 1996, 3) and the
Catholic martyr Joseph Lambton, who was executed for his faith in Newcastle on the 27th
July 1593.22
22
Citing online reference ‘The Lambton’ > http://rcdhn.org.uk/about_the_diocese/lambtons.php, accessed 22/02/09
38
Other Cultural Influences
This was the first ever building I was inspired to find out more about. I must have been about
6 and staying with relatives in Sunderland. I know I asked about it at a local paper, and
something was printed. The Monument and the hill it's on have made a lasting impression on
me
Comment on Penshaw by Amanda, from Luton, London. June 2007.23
Though not given the same amount of coverage as the
Newcastle Bridges, Durham Cathedral or The Angel of the
North, Penshaw is an important iconographic structure
associated with the region. It is a popular subject with local
photographers and artists, and there are a number of
examples of such work on display at the East Branwell
Farm tea shop at the base of the hill (a favourite respite
spot for visitors, walkers and coach parties). The
Monument has also been adopted by Sunderland football
Figure 22: Sunderland FC badge
club as an image representative of the region, and appears as a key element on the club’s
badge.
The appeal of the monument has, however, not really attracted that much interest from earlier
artists who seem to have focused on Victoria Bridge and views up the river. Possibly the
earliest drawing of the site is that by which accompanies the publication of Fordyce’s ‘The
History & Antiquities of the County Palatine of Durham’ in 1857, which shows a rather out of
proportion building which looks as if it is about to topple down the hill. Other representations,
like the postcard dated to 1858, show the building as a feature within the wider landscape.
Figures 23 and 24: illustration of Penshaw Monument appearing in Fordyce (1857) and a postcard from
around the same period (1858) showing the Monument from viewed from the Wear
23
39
Nature of Archaeological Evidence
There were previously 13 sites recorded on the National Trust SMR for Penshaw Monument,
and the current survey has added a further 15 new sites; bringing the total overall to 28 sites
recorded within the boundary of the landholding. Many of the main archaeological periods are
represented, the earliest evidence being from the Iron Age and the latest the 20th century.
The Tyne and Wear County Council HER features 5 of these sites, and the NMR 1 site - the
Penshaw Monument. The majority of these sites already appeared on the NT database, but
where this was not the case, then a new NT SMR number was assigned. New sites were also
added based on the results of the field survey, analysis of the historic mapping, and the study
of modern aerial photographs. All sites are illustrated on Figure 26, and detailed in the
gazetteer.
Prehistoric
There is no direct evidence of prehistoric activity on the landholding, although there is
considerable evidence of ritual activity in the immediate vicinity. The closest known prehistoric
site to the landholding lies just north-east at Flinton Farm (TWHER 253) where Neolithic
scrapers, flints and artefacts were found in the early 20th century. Further to the east is the
extensive Neolithic and Bronze Age evidence from Hastings Hill (TWHER 109-113), as well
as sites at Copt Hill (TWHER 100, 114), Middle Herrington (TWHER 238) and Warden Law
(TWHER 255). There is, therefore, considered to be a high potential for prehistoric activity on
Penshaw Hill, although the survival of any evidence is believed to be low to moderate.
Later activity on the knoll, including extensive quarrying, and possible ploughing on the flat
ground of the summit, would have probably eradicated any in-situ settlement or ritual
evidence. However, there is some potential for artefacts to erode out of the subsoil along the
scarp of the quarry face or the edges of footpath, as well as being kicked up by mole hills.
Penshaw Wood might potentially be less disturbed by later occupation, particularly if it does
prove to be ASN woodland, but any in-situ remains could have equally been heavily disturbed
by root action. No obvious extant archaeological features like barrows or earthworks were
observed. Again, there is the potential for spot find recovery in tree throws or eroding out of
banks and pathways, but such finds are notoriously difficult to spot in woodland given the
build up of fallen leaves and dense ground cover. The flat area at the base of the hill is
possibly the area of highest potential in terms of survival, but not the highest in terms of likely
occupation which would be the top of the hill.
Iron Age
Evidence of Iron Age activity is concentrated on the knoll of Penshaw Hill and comprises at
least three concentric banks believed to be the defences associated with a multi-vallate,
contour hillfort (NTSMR 14809) overlooking the river Wear.
The defences seem to be
concentrated to the south and south-east of the hill, where the drop is steepest, although not
40
particularly difficult to ascend. This might be presumed to be the shortest and most direct
route up the hill. On the other sides the ascent is more gradual, allowing the enemy to be
seen, and engaged, further down slope. In addition, on the west of the monument there is a
steep drop down the scarp in places, although this might be a relatively modern phenomenon
associated with quarrying. However, given the dense woodland cover it was unclear from the
initial field assessment whether the defensive banks did continue along the slopes; assuming
the hill slopes were deforested in the Iron Age period. The defences do continue on the northwest side of the summit, although only a short section now survives in-situ. Nevertheless,
there are clearly three sets of banks preserved on this side of the hill. Unfortunately, Penshaw
Hill Quarry has destroyed much of the evidence on the north-east side of the hill, but some of
the banks and paths observed here could be earlier and might relate to the hillfort.
The surviving defences clearly follow the contours of the hill, the lower rampart runs along the
base of the knoll and has been obscured by the high level trackway (NTSMR 15055) leading
to the quarry which follows its course. Today it comprises of a two metre wide flat ‘path’ with a
steep break of slope down hill and equally steep rise uphill There is no prominent ditch or
bank and it is unclear whether they were eradicated by the construction of the quarry path, or
whether this first line of defence was just a simple palisade. The wide berm is, however,
clearly man-made and does mark an intermediate area between the bottom of the hill and the
defences higher up the slope, although obviously enhanced by the later trackway.
Plates 7 & 8: the lower and middle ‘ramparts’; the old quarry track has removed much of the lower
defences but the bank and ditch of the intermediate defences are still extant.
The second line of defence is better preserved; lying 10m further upslope. At this point the
profile of the rampart is more distinct. The natural incline of the hill slope provides the face of
the rampart, then there is a narrow berm (flat platform), behind which lies the earth-bank
(standing approximately 1m high) and then a shallow ditch behind. The natural slope of the
hill then rises again to the final line of defences at the crest of the knoll. This design is
41
obviously utilising the natural advantages of the slope which replaces the need for a large
ditch in front of the ramparts. The shallow ditch behind probably just provided the necessary
upcast to support the timber palisade which would have probably been ground set and with,
or without, rear revetment. The Magnesian Limestone in the area lies so close beneath the
surface that the construction of any sizeable ditch would have required considerable labour,
the defences, therefore, utilise all the natural advantages of the contours of the hill.
The final line of defence comprises an earth-cast bank enclosing the hilltop plateau. This is
much smaller than that associated with the ramparts below, and may have been a simple
timber palisade surrounding the settlement, or encampment. It stands about 0.5m high but is
very distinct, and can be seen running clearly running along the hill crest.
On the north-west side of the knoll the same pattern of defences continues but in this area,
where there has been less later disturbance, the lower rampart is represented by an earthcast bank, although only a short fragment survives. To the north-east the line of the defences
has been truncated by the later quarry which has removed much of the evidence on this side
of the hill. No gate or entrance into the hillfort was identified during the preliminary survey,
and it is possible that this was also destroyed by the later quarrying. However, a more
comprehensive survey of the surviving earthworks might locate some surviving evidence.
Plate 9: continuation of possible defences on the north-west side of the hill, although only a small
fragment survives, much of this side of the hill being quarried away.
The overall area enclosed by the defences at the top of the hill is just under 5 acres which is
relatively modest in size compared to sites like St Catherines Hill in Hampshire which covers
some 60 acres, but it is comparable to Maiden Castle in Durham (NMR 24516) which covers
42
just 2 acres; although the ramparts at Durham survive to a greater height. However, the size
of the encampment, and nature of the ramparts, would have been dependant not only on the
natural topography of the site, but also on its function. Smaller sites are often found in the
north and believed to be associated with the smaller tribal groups of the Brigantes, although it
remains unclear whether this was an established settlement site or, as seems more likely, a
temporary encampment used not only during times of threat but also for tribal meetings and
celebration.
Off the main hill slope, the area of land to the south-east, cut through by the main public
footpath from the car park, features possible earthworks which could be Iron Age in date.
These include a circular, banked enclosure which shows up clearly both on the ground and in
aerial photographs (NTSMR 14799). There is no dating material associated with this feature
and it might even be much later in date, possibly associated with stock management. Other
features in the area include a pronounced bank behind Penshaw Hill House. Today, this
linear feature is somewhat disturbed by the later access track (NTSMR 15056), but the
embankment does show up very clearly on the 25 inch first edition OS map and might form
part of some form of lower defence, even the arm of a possible gateway.
Roman
There are no Roman sites or finds associated with the landholding. It has been proposed that
the massive masonry blocks which stand to the north-west of the monument - as well as
some of those used in the construction of the building - are re-used Roman stones from the
former crossing at South Hylton. This is an interesting idea but cannot be supported by any
evidence, although analysis of the stone by a specialist in the period might at least resolve
what period they are from. However, it would seem more likely that they were specifically cut
for the Monument in the 19th century, although it remains unclear why they have been
discarded. They may even have been left there during the re-building of the western end in
1979.
Early medieval
There is no early medieval material found within the immediate vicinity of the site. The nearest
site being a spot find of an Anglo-Saxon brooch identified at South Hylton (TWHER 347)
which again, may be associated with the earlier Roman Road.
Medieval
Although there was extensive medieval settlement in the surrounding area at Old Penshaw Offerton and Wood House amongst others - there is very little evidence from within the
landholding. On the plateau south-east of the monument there is some indication of ridge and
furrow cultivation (NTSMR 14810) but this is quite ephemeral and does not continue to the
north of the site.
43
The old town strip field layout was still very much in evidence at the time of the first edition OS
survey in 1860 but later agricultural rationalisation, and open cast mining has removed a
number of the earlier boundaries surrounding the site. Some ridge and furrow can still be
seen surrounding Penshaw village. To the west of Penshaw Wood, the area was previously
subdivided into a number of fields associated with the settlement at Wood Farm where ridge
and furrow is still well preserved to the north and east, but there is no indication of any
continuation into Penshaw Wood. This would support the theory that the wood (NTSMR
14813) was already established by the medieval period. However, the township boundary
(NTSMR 15058) which separates Penshaw Wood and Dawson’s Plantation can still be seen
and also probably dates to the medieval period, although it is not as substantial as might be
expected. Based on the in-situ evidence, and on the OS ‘R.H’, (right of hedge) annotation, the
boundary formerly comprised a planted hedge (probably hawthorn) but only the slight banking
at the base of the hedge survives. This means that it was highly likely that the land on at least
one side of the boundary was open when it was established.
Post Medieval
Much of the surviving evidence onsite dates to the post medieval period. The earliest site is a
documentary reference (NTSMR 14808) to the Scots cavalry encampment on the hill in 1644.
Elsewhere in the country evidence of civil war activity has been found on hillforts, with the
earlier ramparts being utilised and re-enforced. In North Yorkshire, at Gates Hill Camp just
outside Knaresborough, a civil war encampment was recorded within the bounds of the Iron
Age enclosure. However, no such evidence appears to survive at Penshaw, and based on the
contemporary description of events, it would seem that the position was only used as an
overnight camp and vantage point.
Quarrying
The majority of those sites recorded within the landholding relate to quarrying and probably
date to the 18th and early 19th centuries. Initially there appears to have been small scale
quarrying along the scarp of the hill, with a number of minor quarries already recorded as
being ‘old’ on the 6 inch first edition OS map (1860) – (these include NTSMR 15054, 15053,
15052 and 14801). Such quarries would have predominantly provided local rubble stone for
building, as well as for lime burning for fertiliser to improve the yield of the surrounding fields.
The only exception may have been the larger quarry to the west of the monument (NTSMR
15054) which may have been producing freestone. Eventually the smaller quarries were
replaced by Penshaw Hill Quarry (NTSME 15051), a large scale quarry which has resulted in
the removal of much of the north-eastern side of the summit. This is not shown on Green’s
map of 1820, although probably already in existence. It is clearly shown on the 1848 tithe and
was under the ownership of Lord Londonderry. The 1st edition 25 inch map (1856) shows an
associated lime kiln at the base of the quarry (NTSMR 15060), but no evidence of this
survives in-situ. The quarry is still shown as operational on the slightly later 6 inch first edition
44
map, published in 1860, but is listed as ‘disused’ on the 1898 second edition map. A separate
sand pit (NTSMR 14811) was also located just to the east of the main quarry, although
already marked as ‘old’ on the first edition map.
Associated with the quarries are a number of access tracks and roads. Hill Lane (NTSMR
14812) which links the village of Old Penshaw with the quarries on the hill appears to cut
through the earlier strip fields and may have originally been used by the quarry men in
Penshaw to get to work on the hill. Later it seems to have been the main route to transport
stone, by waggon, from Penshaw Hill Quarry to the river, where it would be shipped by keel to
the glass works or docks at Sunderland. Hill Lane was connected to the main quarry by the
high level trackway (NTSMR 15055) which ran along the bottom of the former defences.
Although not the most direct route, Hill Lane and the high level trackway path would have
been a much easier gradient to negotiate than the quicker route down the hill to the Chester
Road. Later, horse-drawn waggonways were installed across the area to transport stone from
the surrounding quarries to the staithes but there is no obvious evidence of this at Penshaw,
although the high level track could be a former waggonway.
Plates 10 & 11: path (NTSMR 14802), a quarry path later enhanced for visitors to the Monument and
the upcast from a quarry pit in Dawson’s Plantation (NTSMR 14803).
There are a number of other tracks which criss-cross the site, many of which are associated
with the quarries. One of the earliest examples is a short length of woodland track (NTSMR
14800) which connects the quarries on the south-west side of the hill with Hill Lane, but there
is also the low level trackway (NTSMR 15056), and the western path towards Offerton
(NTSMR 14802). However, some of these paths may have been constructed, or enhanced,
following the construction of the Monument to provide for visitors to the site. This might also
include the main track through the woodland (NTSMR 15062), although this would have also
been the main access path through the wood and plantation for the woodsman.
45
The woodland
Presumably the woodland has been managed for some considerable time, and Penshaw
Wood (NTSMR 14813) may even date to the medieval period or earlier. There are some
signs of woodland practices but these are not extensive. On the south-west side of Penshaw
Wood there is some indication of coppicing, although this is largely overgrown. A fragment of
plashed hedge (NTSMR 14506) also survives, but it was unclear how old this was and it
might have been quite recent. The only other evidence of activity recorded was a series of
circular pits observed in both Penshaw Wood and Dawson’s Plantation (NTSMR 14807,
14805, 14804, 14803). The function of these is unclear and may have been industrial;
however, given the area, and the fragments of stone found in the base of some, they are
probably quarry or stone pits. Small quarries are noted on the map, and visible on the ground,
just to the north of the landholding at Grimestone Banks. There was certainly evidence of
quarrying (NTSMR 15059) along the eastern boundary of Dawson’s Plantation where the
escarpment has clearly been worked. This is not shown on the OS mapping until the third
edition map of 1923, although it was probably earlier in origin.
The Monument
Undoubtedly, the best known site on the
landholding
is
the
Earl
of
Durham’s
monument. Built in 1844 the monument was
designed by the local architects John and
Benjamin Green, and is based on the
Temple of Hephaestus in Athens which
stands on the north-west side of the Agora,
on top of the Agoraios Kolonos hill. The
original temple was built in the 449 BC and
is believed to have been designed by
Plate 12: The Temple of Hephaestus in Athens.
Ictinus, one of the architects who worked on the Partheon. From the 7th century it had served
as a church and was renowned in the 19th century as the burial site for non-Orthodox
supports of the Greek War of Independence (1821-1830) including George Watson, a friend
of Lord Byron’s. It became a museum in 1834 under the decree of Otto 1, the first King of
Greece. It is not known whether the strong associations the building had with liberation and
national identity in the early 19th century gave it a particular appeal to the Green’s, or whether
it just fitted their concept of what a ‘classic’ temple should look like. The design has also been
linked to the Temple of Diana at Ephesus (Cummings 1996, 28) and the Temple of Theseion
at Athens (EH listing description).
The Earl of Durham’s ‘temple’ is comparable in size to its Greek counterpart, measuring 30m
46
long by 16m wide, although it is has fewer columns and is less complex in design.24 The
structure is orientated east to west and is located at the southern end of the knoll, overlooking
the river plain and surrounding countryside. It stands 20 metres high; the massive entablature
resting on eighteen Doric order columns. The structure is built of gritstone, the local
sandstone being too soft to withstand the weather in such an exposed location. The gritstone
was sourced locally from one of Lord Londonderry’s quarries along the coast, and is held in
position by a series of steel brackets and pins.
The Monument comprises four basic parts. The base, or stylobate, supports the rest of the
structure and is built of massive gritstone blocks, a number of which feature evidence of
Lewis holes used in their transportation. The ashlar blocks provide the foundation of the
structure and a base for the columns, although within the ‘interior’ of the temple the floor is
laid with rectangular stone sets. A tetrastyle structure, the building has four columns along the
short axis supporting the pediment, with seven columns arranged along each long side. The
columns are of the Doric order - one of the oldest and simplest of the classical orders –
without ornament at the base or top. Resting on the columns is the entablature, divided into
the architrave, frieze and cornice, with a triangular pediment at each end. The architrave runs
along the top of the columns and is very plain in design. Above this, the frieze features
stylised triglyphs, without grooves but, nevertheless, fitting for the Doric order. Then above
this is a simple cornice projects outwards.
The pediment is very simple in design and without ornament although local tale tells that it
was originally intended to have a statue of the Earl of Durham on horse back on the apex
except the project ran out of money and that the statue was given to Durham instead. How
such tales emerge is impossible to determine but this one appears to be confused with the
statue of Lord Londonderry, not Lambton, which stood (until recently) in the Market Square in
Durham City. Another popular tale is quoted as to why the building is roofless. Apparently,
soon after the building’s construction, the 2nd Earl raised the rents on his tenant’s cottages
claiming that if they could afford to build a monument then they could afford to pay more rent,
to which one wily resident replied ‘We winnit raise a roof ‘cos the Earl has raised our rent!’’
(Cummings 1996, 28).25
Since its construction the Monument has attracted visitors to Penshaw Hill, and some of the
tracks around the site may have been installed to provide routes and pleasant walks for those
visiting the site. Unfortunately, the earliest available detailed map evidence is the 1848 tithe
24
The Temple of Hephaestus measures 13.70m by 31.77m with thirteen columns along the long axis and 6 along the
short.
25
A similar tale is told of the Percy Column in Alnwick which was also raised by grateful tenants who, however, were
a lot less grateful when the duke put their rents up on the basis of if they could afford to raise a Monument to him
then they could afford to pay more rent (C. Hardie pers.com.).
47
but the Monument was already completed by this date. However, the main tracks were most
likely constructed to serve the quarry but were maintained, and later enhanced, to later serve
the public accessing the site. The quarry appears to have shut soon after the opening of the
Monument, if not before, but many of the paths first shown on the tithe are maintained
through to the present day.
Modern
Just to the west of the monument stands an OS trig point. This was installed around 1936
when Ordnance Survey began a major re-survey of Great Britain. The network of triangulation
pillars, with accurately known positions, formed part of the OS ‘National Grid’ co-ordinate
system and was used to position a theodolite so that a series of triangulation points could be
taken to other points on hilltops across the surrounding landscape. Today, Ordnance Survey
relies on GPS for mapping updates and most trig points have fallen into disuse with some
having been removed.26 Like the red telephone boxes, these once common features in our
landscape will begin to disappear over time and many of the trig points, like that at Penshaw,
have already lost their brass fittings.
There is no evidence of World War II defences on the site, although presumably it was a
striking reference point. Further investigation may reveal ways in which attempts were made
to ‘disguise’ it, although this would have been a rather impossible task.
Since the construction of the Monument there seems to have been relatively few changes to
the site; the main evidence of modern activity being the signs, fences and footpath
enhancements installed by the Trust. This work is all largely in keeping with the site, except
the floodlights which – while creating a dramatic effect from a distance - are rather ugly and
overpowering on the ground. There are also signs of less desirable modern activity like
rubbish, vandalism and even attempts at impromptu tree felling in Penshaw Wood.
Previous Archaeological and Historical Research
Previous archaeological research on, or within the immediate vicinity of the landholding,
appears to have been sparse. There seems no published or unpublished material dealing with
the site specifically, and no below ground archaeological investigations have been carried out.
The site has formed part of the recent Limestone Landscapes wide area study undertaken by
Archaeo-Environment Ltd for the Limestone Landscapes Partnership, which recommended
that Penshaw Hill be listed as one of 25 key sites which: ‘encapsulate’ the essential features
of the historic environment of the East Durham Magnesian Limestone Character area’ (AE
2009, 102). The site was also mentioned in the recent County Durham Aggregates Project
(ARS 2008), although the landholding was not covered by the main survey.
26
Citing online reference > http://www.trigpointinguk.com/info/trigpoints.php
48
Archaeological Potential and Recommendations for Further Research
The Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau has been the focus of two major archaeological
studies over the past five years; first, the County Durham Aggregates Project (ARS 2008),
and most recently the Limestone Landscapes Survey which remains ongoing (AE 2009). Both
of these major pieces of work have enhanced our knowledge of the area surrounding
Penshaw, and provided a greater understanding of the site within its cultural landscape. In
addition to such desk-based synthesis studies, the recent increase in infrastructure schemes,
such as pipeline projects, has seen a huge increase in archaeological excavation in east
Durham and identified some major new sites like the extensive prehistoric material at Warden
Law. All of this information has served to highlight those areas of highest archaeological
potential on the Magnesian Limestone Plateau. Based on this information, and the
assessment of archaeological material already found on the landholding, the following list
identifies those areas considered to be of the highest future archaeological potential (the
potential rating allocation is solely site specific).
1. The area of the former Penshaw Hill Quarry. The exposed scarp of this large quarry
is gradually eroding and in this process further archaeological evidence might be
revealed. Although this is anticipated to only result in spot finds it could, potentially,
also identify groups of finds which might point towards more secure artefact
collection. There may even be some indication of buried surfaces, particularly in
those areas where soil deposits over the limestone overburden are clearly visible in
the section. Potential: High/Medium
2. The relatively flat area of the plateau on top of the knoll (outside of the area occupied
by the quarry) is considered to have the highest potential for the survival of any in-situ
settlement evidence; although this area has been heavily disturbed by later activity.
Material here might be found relating to prehistoric activity on the site, as well as any
Iron Age occupation, and possibly civil war material. However, the area immediately
south-east of the monument may have been ploughed so, given the shallow depth of
soil deposits seen in the quarry section, it is unlikely that in-situ material would have
survived here. However, the open area to the north of the structure – between
Penshaw Hill Quarry and the upper boundary fence, might be significant. This could
warrant further geophysical survey, although advice on the practicality of this, given
how close the limestone is to the surface, would need to be sought. Potential:
High/Medium
3. There is some potential for prehistoric and Iron Age activity to be found associated
with the quarry on top of the knoll. This is based on evidence from other hilltop sites
in the immediate area, including Hastings and Copt Hill. However survival is likely to
be poor given the extent of later activity in the area. Potential: Medium/Low
49
4. On the hill slope there is the potential for material to erode out of the edges of
footpaths or be found during footpath works. In particular, where there is considerable
erosion caused by people stepping off the approved path and the more severe areas
of mountain bike damage; especially over the winter. This area might be significant in
recovering any Iron Age dating evidence. Potential: Medium/Low
5. Penshaw Wood, and to some extent Dawson’s Plantation, are also areas of moderate
potential. Again, material may erode out of quarry pits and steep banks. There is also
the potential for further evidence of woodland management to be observed and
potentially industrial activity as well. Further survey could also find features related to
the potential hillfort. Potential: Medium/Low
6. There is some potential for material to erode out of the face of other quarries on site,
although many of these are in woodland where vegetation and leaf coverage would
make things difficult to spot. The escarpment in Dawson’s Plantation might be
considered of moderate potential as material from the top of the knoll may erode out
and fall to the base of the escarpment. Although, again, the potential for actually
finding any artefactual evidence would be slight. The only exception might be minor
landslips after heavy rains. Potential: Low/Medium
In addition, areas of further research might include:
1. A comprehensive assessment of the potential hillfort including: a comparative study;
topographic earthwork survey; possible LIDAR coverage to assess material which
might be obscured by woodland, and targeted excavation. If the site does prove to be
a hillfort, which is by no means certain, then it would be of considerable regional and
even national importance and would warrant scheduling.
2. A closer look at the various paths and trackways around the site to establish whether
any of these were originally waggonways (in particular the high level trackway
NTSMR 15055) and if any were introduced following the opening of the Monument as
part of the ‘visitor’ landscape.
3. Further work, including partnership work with ecologists, to determine whether
Penshaw Wood (NTSMR 14813) is ASN woodland, and to establish whether there
still exists evidence of woodland management.
4. Further documentary research would be beneficial, particularly a more in depth study
of the relevant estate records of the Lambton and the Londonderry (Vane-Tempest
Stewart) families. Special attention should be paid to any early maps or paintings of
50
the site which might help clarify the status of the woodland and aid the assessment of
the potential hillfort.
Statement of Significance
‘No matter where you have been in the world, when you see Penshaw Monument, you know
you are home at last’
Penshaw: part of the region’s identity - comment by Catherine Meddes of County Durham.27
Overall, the National Trust landholding at Penshaw Monument is considered to be of National
importance in terms of both the Monument itself and its immediate setting; this is supported
by its Grade I listed status. This significance rating would apply whether or not the site also
proves to be an Iron Age hillfort, but should the latter prove true then this would only escalate
its standing. The Penshaw Monument is an important regional landmark which, along with
sites like the Tyne Bridges and the Angel of the North, ‘identifies’ the North East. These sites
are obviously of regional importance, but as a group are also considered to have National
significance as icons of the North. The site is a familiar landmark on the local skyline and
there are a range of important views both to and from the hill. Towards the hill one of the most
significant views is from the main arterial road, the A1, but also closer to the site from along
the A183. Views from the site are of equally important and there is a virtually panoramic view
out over the countryside from the top of the hill. It is the views, and local walks, which attract
most visitors to the site, and make it popular with a range of people both local and from
further afield. The site is also a valuable education resource for a wide range of topics –
historical, ecological, architectural and literary. In addition, the dramatic angles of the building,
far reaching views and constantly changing skies, all contribute to making it a favourite spot
for local photographers and artists.
Plate 13 views north-east from the summit showing the Cleadon Hills in the distance.
27
51
Rarity Value
The Earl of Durham’s Monument is unique: a fact recognised in its grade I listed status.
Although there are countless other statues and monuments to known (and forgotten)
dignitaries, it is the sheer size and dramatic impact of Penshaw which puts it amongst the
likes of Grey’s Monument in Newcastle, Nelson’s Column in London and the Dashwood
Mausoleum in High Wycombe. Ironically, however, the association with John Lambton, Earl of
Durham is not generally appreciated by most of those who know the site.
The rarity value of the Monument, therefore, is
quite
considerable.
Possibly
its
closest
architectural and cultural relation is the National
Monument on Carlton Hill in Edinburgh, although
Penshaw can brag a ‘finished’ temple whereas
funds ran out for the National Monument, leading
to it often being labelled Edinburgh's ‘Folly’ or
‘Disgrace’
Plate 14: The National Monument in Edinburgh
The rarity value of the site further increases if it is confirmed as an Iron Age hillfort, as such
sites are very rare in County Durham and unknown in Tyne & Wear, although considerably
more prevalent in the border lands of Northumberland. Currently, Maiden Castle, just outside
Durham city, and Shackleton Beacon, near Heighington, are the only two confirmed hillforts
between the Tyne and Tees.
Documentary Evidence
There is actually very little primary documentary material readily available and, as such, the
site is considered to have only moderate documentary significance. The earliest detailed
cartographic material found was the 1848 tithe map, although earlier estate maps might be
preserved in the Lambton or Londonderry archives. There may also be more details available
on the construction of the monument, including drawings and details of materials used.
Associations with other sites, famous people and known political events
Penshaw does have a number of connections with national events and famous people. Again,
probably most significant is John Lambton, first Earl of Durham, who is celebrated in the
Monument itself. Lambton had a distinguished political career and became a popular figure
for his involvement in pushing through the Reform Act of 1832. This radically re-wrote the
political map in Britain and granted the industrial areas of the North a degree of
representation previously unknown. His local popularity was attested by the fact that funds for
the Monument came predominately from public donations.
52
An earlier Lambton is also associated with the site, Sir John, the knight in the tale the
Lambton Worm. The connection of the site with the folk tale, whether it is Penshaw or Worm
Hill, is of considerable significance to the public’s perception of the site, and a major
contributor to the overall sense of place - it gives the hill mystery and tradition. On mentioning
Penshaw almost everyone starts talking of the Lambton Worm and it is often the very first
thing that springs to people’s mind in association with the site. The tale has also brought a
wider recognition to the area through literature like Stoker’s ‘Tale of the White Worm’ and the
folk song which is still regularly sung in pub sessions around the region and appears in a
number of anthologies.
Possibly of lesser immediate significance is the association of the monument with John and
Benjamin Green, although both are highly important local architects whose work had a
dramatic impact on Newcastle city centre, and whose engineering projects contributed to the
huge success of the northern railways.
There is also some association with Lord Londonderry and, through him, the Vane Tempest
Stewarts who held much of Penshaw Hill, although the surrounding land formed part of the
Lambton Estate. Londonderry, as one of the major coal barons in the area, and the name
behind the construction of Seaham harbour, had enormous impact on local, and regional,
economic, political and social history.
In terms of political events, the site has obvious connections through John Lambton to the
Reform Bill as well as the introduction of the House of Representatives in Canada. It is
perhaps less well known for the role it played in skirmishes before the Battle of Boldon,
although a key event in the region’s history.
Amenity Value
Penshaw Monument attracts a large number of visitors throughout the year, some specifically
to visit the Monument, but many more come on a daily basis to walk the dog, jog through the
woods, take photographs or simply enjoy the views. Even on a freezing cold day in February,
with a fair smattering of snow and hail storms, there were still at least thirty people out and
about in the landholding, including a group of primary school children taking part in an outdoor
music lesson. The National Trust and Penshaw Preservation Society also organise a number
of annual events, including the traditional hard boiled egg rolling contest down the hill, which
one elderly visitor to the site remembered doing every year since boyhood.28 As such, the site
is considered to be of considerable amenity value to both local people and visitors, and an
important recreational and education resource in an area which has suffered considerably in
recent years following the closure of local industry. However, with its popularity also comes
28
Citing online reference ‘events’ > http://www.penshawmonument.co.uk/Events1.htm
53
problems which, although not currently too severe, might threaten the site in the future if not
adequately redressed by a long-term management strategy. More is also needed to be done
to provide information to those visiting the site with all forms of information both on and off site
being quite poorly provided by the Trust; for example, there is only minimal information
available on the Trust’s website.
When I was a young girl I went with my grandfather to the Penshaw Monument in Sunderland
and used to roll my Easter eggs (hard boiled and hand painted!). I am now 37 and a carer for
my grandfather who is 91 years young. As I go up the motorway you can see Penshaw
Monument standing proud on the hill and it's truly fantastic
Comment on Penshaw Monument by Sarah Birdsall from Stockton-on-Tees, April 2008.29
Statutory Status
The Monument is a Grade I listed building. That designation also provides some protection of
the immediate area of the knoll in terms of surrounding curtilage and protection of setting. The
extent of setting has not been defined here but should be of particular note to the Trust when
considering both its own plans for the site and assessing developments in the surrounding
area. The ecological significance of the site is recognised to some extent by the SSSI
designation on the quarried escarpment in Dawson’s Plantation (NTSMR 15059). However,
should Penshaw Hill prove to be an Iron Age hillfort then it should strongly be considered for
scheduling given its potential importance to an understanding of the organisation of
settlement during this period. It might also be appropriate to increase the status of Penshaw
Wood, as potential ASN woodland, dependant on the outcome of further ecological
assessment.
Management Concerns and Recommendations
A basic assessment of condition and potential risk was made during the field survey, and in
general most sites were considered moderate to good (Figure 27). The primary risk to the
immediate condition of sites was the growth of vegetation which threatened to obscure some
features. However, this impact was relatively minor and would only warrant monitoring. Other
than this the main risks to the stability of the archaeology within the landholding were those
which are seen commonly across a number of similar sites, namely: vandalism, litter, footpath
erosion, damage from mountain bike use, stock grazing, poorly designed signage and street
furniture, and lack of information
29
54
Vandalism
There is surprisingly very little vandalism across the landholding, particularly given the easy
access, remote location of the site, and proximity to urban centres like Sunderland and
Washington. However the amount of vandalism may vary according to the weather, with more
occurring in the summer as the site seems to be a popular drinking spot for local teenagers.
Anti-vandal measures have been taken where possible: the floodlights at the base of the
Monument are ugly but robust, the signage is solid, and the existing Monument plaque is
brushed steel. The main danger to the building itself is considered to be from graffiti, the solid
gritstone and simple lines of the structure probably protecting it from any actual physical
damage.
There is some evidence of small scale vandalism concentrated in the woodland. This seems
largely associated with making camps and mountain bike tracks rather than any out-and-out
mindless destruction; nevertheless, the impact can still be considerable. There is some graffiti
and evidence of burning on the quarry escarpment in Dawson’s Plantation (the SSSI site) and
there has even been an attempt to fell a tree near a ‘drinking den’ in the north-west corner of
Penshaw Wood.
ACTION: Ensure regular monitoring checks are made and that funds are allocated to enable
remedial action to be taken without delay. Increase monitoring in the summer.
Plates 15 & 16: a camp fire at the base of the SSSI
escarpment in Dawson’s Plantation, and evidence of
attempted tree felling in Penshaw Wood
Litter
Partly associated with the problem of vandalism is that of litter. In general, there is a low level
of litter dropped by visitors and walkers. The main problem appears to be associated with
camps and ‘drinking dens’ set up by teenagers, some of which seem quite well established.
Two main spots were noted; the first below the SSSI quarry escarpment in Dawson’s
55
Plantation and the second in the north-west corner of Penshaw Wood. At both these sites
there was evidence of camp fires and a number of bottles and cans. It was also in association
with the second of these that the damaged tree was found.
At the Penshaw Wood camp someone had placed a plastic tub for rubbish, and this simple
idea seemed to have worked, reducing the rubbish in the immediate area. In addition to the
rubbish there is also the issue of the damage being done to these sensitive sites - one a SSSI
and the other part of the potential ASN woodland. Again, the problem may escalate in the
summer.
There was also a minor problem with probably younger children making a ‘camp’ in Penshaw
Wood from planks and bits of carpet. This was rather an eyesore than anything else, but it
was away from the main track and did not appear to be doing any major damage.
ACTION: 1) Ensure regular monitoring checks are made and that provisions are put in place
to remove litter immediately. Increase monitoring in the summer.
2) Explore options to reduce activity in sensitive areas by providing a controlled BBQ area in
Dawson’s Plantation, although this may come with its own set of problems.
3) Assess other options for controlling litter such as the placement of bins in key areas.
Footpath Erosion
There has obviously been considerable recent investment in improving the pathways on the
landholding. The steep paths in the wood and up the hill slope have been fitted with log risers
and the ‘official’ paths in the woodland are well tended and maintained. The main problem
seems to come from people stepping out from the established pathways to walk around them
and up the hill slope, so eroding the land nearby. This is of particular concern on the
monument hill, particularly if it is a hillfort, as erosion is quite bad in places. Notices to keep to
the path, and indication of clearly re-seeded areas might prevent this. The path up the
monument is so well established, and the damage already done, that it is not suggested that it
should be moved even if the banks there do turn out to be Iron Age. However, the area does
need to be monitored and actions taken as appropriate. Increased public awareness about
the significance of the site might encourage people to stick to the footpaths in sensitive areas.
Elsewhere footpaths have been damaged by the recent poor weather. An assessment before
the main tourist season in the spring/summer would be advisable. There is also the issue of
unofficial paths, some of which are harmless paths through the woods –although these need
to be monitored in Penshaw Wood if it is ASN woodland – but others are mountain bike tracks
56
which are causing substantial damage.
ACTION: 1) Ensure regular monitoring checks are made and that funds are allocated to
enable remedial action to be taken without delay when necessary. Increase monitoring in
sensitive places like Penshaw Wood.
2) Consider re-seeding problem areas. Explore possibility of temporary signage on the hill to
request people keep to paths until erosion is reseeded. Increased information on the
importance of the hill slope may also encourage people to be more careful. However, all
signage must be in keeping with the setting of the Monument and not ‘clutter’ the hillside possibly a single information board at the main access into the site.
Plates 17 & 18: litter in Dawson’s Plantation and a view of the main footpath down the hill showing an
‘alternative’ footpath running parallel (to the right of the picture’ caused by people stepping off of the
official path.
Mountain Bikes
Much of the damage observed onsite was associated with mountain bike use; this occurred
across the site but was concentrated in two areas: the steep eastern slope of the woodland
and Penshaw Hill Quarry. There are a number of tracks in the sensitive area of Penshaw
Wood and these seem to be increasing; the attempt to cut down the tree in the north-west
corner of the wood may have been associated with clearing a cycle track. The damage is also
being exacerbated by the poor weather which is leading to considerable problems with
erosion.
The other area of concern is Penshaw Hill Quarry (NTSMR 15051), although this does also
serve to contain the activity and keep it off of the hill slope. The main problem within the
quarry is whether the bike tracks are damaging any surviving remains of the Iron Age
defences, as well as access into the area along the high level trackway. Further survey
should provide information on whether anything does survive and allow appropriate action to
be taken. Again, more information about the significance of the hill, and maybe specified
57
mountain bike areas and routes, could help limit the problem. In the short term any damage
should be monitored and remedial action taken as necessary.
ACTION: 1) Ensure regular monitoring checks are made and that funds are allocated to
enable remedial action to be taken without delay. Increase monitoring in sensitive places like
Penshaw Wood.
2) Undertake further survey work to establish if the site is a hillfort, and if so to determine
whether any features still survive in the area of the former quarry.
Stock Grazing
There is some cattle grazing in the low lying field at the base of the monument, immediately
west of the entrance. Given the poor weather prior to the survey the ground in this area was
considerably churned up by the animals, particularly around the water trough. This area is
potentially one of good archaeological preservation and includes the undated circular
enclosure (NTSMR 14799). This is also the main access point into the landholding and the
cattle can be fairly intimidating to visitors, especially those with dogs. It is therefore
recommended that measures be considered which would limit the impact of stock grazing
including maybe relocating the current water trough, as well as varying grazing regimes
throughout the year.
ACTION: Re-assess current grazing strategies to reduce impact in areas of high
archaeological potential.
Plates 19 & 20: cattle grazing in the lower field are causing damage to this potentially sensitive area,
and mountain bike tracks causing damage and erosion through Penshaw Hill Quarry
Poorly designed signage and street furniture
This is a common problem on such sites where there is a need to balance the demand for
public information signs with maintaining the overall setting of the monument. At the moment
most of the elements on the landholding are sympathetic to the setting, but the main area of
58
concern is around the Monument itself. The building is lit at night by a series of floodlights
arranged around the base of the structure. The lighting creates an eye-catching and dramatic
feature on the evening skyline; however, in close proximity the floodlights are ugly and
imposing. In part, they need to be solid to deter vandals but sinking the floodlights below
ground level would minimise their impact. The area around the Monument has already been
heavily disturbed so this should not have any adverse archaeological impact, and certainly
not one which would outweigh the advantage to the setting.30 In addition, the brush steel
plaque might be updated. At the moment it is rather utilitarian and stark and does not reflect
any of the grandeur of the Monument.
Elsewhere on the site fencing and footpaths are good and sympathetic to the surroundings.
The new wooden risers are currently a little stark but these will weather in. The old style
‘National Trust’ stone at the entrance to the monument is almost a feature in its own right. In
fact, one of the issues at Penshaw might be inadequate signage, both in terms of information
and caution notices. Notices might be considered to request people to keep to the footpaths
to limit erosion and along the narrow footpath across the hill summit to the north-west of the
site there should be some form of warning about the steep drop down the escarpment into
Dawson’s Plantation.
ACTION: 1) Ensure regular monitoring checks are made to check the condition of signage
and that funds are allocated to enable remedial action to be taken without delay. Increase
monitoring in sensitive places like Penshaw Wood.
2) Undertake further survey work to establish if the site is a hillfort, and if so to determine
whether any features still survive in the area of the former quarry.
3) Look to increase public information signage of a suitable design.
Lack of Information
Arguably the greatest concern at Penshaw is the lack of information currently available about
the landholding both on and off site. This was one of the main points picked up by the recent
Limestone Landscapes assessment resulting in the site being place on a list of 25 key sites
for further research and consideration (AE 2009, 169-171).
On site there is very little information about the history and significance of the landholding,
although – as hopefully this report has shown - it has an intriguing and interesting past.
However, information signs onsite are notoriously difficult to make vandal proof, although it
has been achieved successfully in some places. Arguably, improving the public’s
30
Such work would need to be archaeological monitored
59
understanding of a site, particularly amongst the younger generation, is perhaps the most
valuable weapon in any arsenal against long term vandalism.
As well as improved signage other ways of increasing public awareness and education might
be considered. Local walk pamphlets currently exist for sites like Hawthorn Dene and these
might be considered for Penshaw. Projects working in partnership with the Ramblers and
Walk for Health initiatives may also be an option worth pursuing. The Trust might consider
increasing online access to the site, particularly for those who are physically impaired and not
able to access the steep gradients of the landholding. Virtual ‘walks’ of interesting and
attractive areas are now becoming more popular and could be tied in with downloadable
routes for those more able bodied members of the community. Working in partnership with
local schools and groups like the Penshaw Monument Preservation Society31 a wide range of
educational events could be organised around the history and cultural background of the site.
The monument itself would also make a perfect location for small scale theatre and music
productions in the summer.
ACTION: 1) Look at ways to improve onsite presentation of the Monument to the public.
2) Look at ways to improve offsite presentation to the public including online presence on the
Trust’s Website as well as partnership projects with local groups and schools.
31
Citing online reference > http://www.penshawmonument.co.uk/Contact1.htm
60
Gazetteer (see NTSMR for full descriptions and references)
(Not found = looked for but not found; Not seen=not looked for)
NT
Type
NGR
Date
Source
Condition
Description
Image
Hillfort
433458
Iron Age
Site Survey
Moderate/
Possible
Good
overlooking the river Wear. Appears on initial
SMR
14809
554427
multi-vallate
contour
hillfort
assessment to comprise of three concentric
rings of defences; the best preserved of which
are on the south and south-east of the hill
where
the
drop
is
steepest.
However,
fragments of the earthworks also re-appear on
the north-west side of the Monument. The best
preserved of the earthworks are those half way
down the hill; these comprise a berm, bank
and ditch. The lower defences have been
considerably altered by the later high level
trackway which follows along the same route.
Earthworks enclose a 5 acres area on top of
the knoll. No dating evidence currently exists.
15055
Trackway
433263
18th
Tithe (1848) and all
554316
century
later mapping
First shown on the tithe map of 1848, and joins Hill
Iron Age?
Site Survey
Lane to the south-west to run to Old Penshaw.
Good
High level trackway providing access to the quarry.
433501
Track is post-medieval but might modify parts of the
554510
early lower ramparts of the potential hillfort.
Measures
approx
2m
across.
May
also
be
433609
associated with tracks maintained for visitors to the
554442
monument after its construction.
Archaeo-Environment Ltd for The National Trust
61
14799
Enclosure
433491
Unknown
554249
Iron Age?
Site Survey
Moderate
Circular
enclosure,
clearly
visible
on
aerial
photographs and on the ground. SE side more
pronounced than the NW side. Survived as a raised
bank, standing about 0.40m high, although not as
well preserved on NW side. Measures approx. 10m
across. No indication of function. Located in lowland
area at the base of Penshaw Hill - might be stock
related but seems too precise to be natural. Could
even be a cock fighting pit associated with Old
Penshaw.
15058
Boundary
433378
18th
Bank
554693
century?
later mapping –
edition map and annotated 'R.H' for right side of
marked as ‘def’ on
hedge. Boundary no longer maintained after 1898
433506
3rd edition (1939)
and marked as ‘def’ meaning undefined, on 3rd
554567
Site Survey
edition OS map. Bank survives as only a very
Poor
Township boundary banks first detailed on first
ephemeral earthwork, greatest at its southern extent
where it stands 0.5m high, but peters out before the
path to the east. Measures 2m wide at western end.
14810
Ridge and
433434
Medieval/
Site Survey
Poor
Very faint traces of parallel line features on the flat
Furrow
554370
Post
area just SE of the monument which might be ridge
Medieval
and furrow. Linears run east to west and measure
approx. 2m in width. Only seen on the ground, not
easily visible on aerial photographs. Located within
bounds of upper rampart.
62
14813
14808
ASN
433332
Medieval/
First appears on
Good/
Block of probably ancient semi-natural woodland.
Woodland
554488
Post
Greenwood’s map of
Moderate
Appears on Greenwood's 1820 map of the area but
Medieval
1820 but earlier
recent species analysis has suggested it may be
documentary
Ancient Semi-Natural Woodland. There is also a
references dating
possible reference to the site in accounts from the
back to 1644
civil war siege in 1644.
Military site
433404
17th
554379
century
TWHER (10882)
N/A
On the 6th March 1644 the Scots cavalry were
encamped on Penshaw Hill observing the Royalist
forces as they crossed the Wear in pursuit of the
Scots forces at Sunderland, prior to the later Battle
of Boldon. After a short skirmish in the fields nearby,
the Scots fell back to Humbleton Hill while the
Marquis regrouped his army at Hastings Hill. Further
skirmishes occurred on the afternoon of the 7th till
the Royalists withdrew to the fields around Penshaw
village. The following day the Scots cavalry,
reinforced
by
musketeers
launched
another
skirmish, but a sudden worsening in the weather
allowed the Royalists to retreat to Durham.
15051
Quarry
433535
First shown
TW HER (3091)
(Limestone/
554433
on 1848
1856 but annotated as 'disused' on second edition
tithe map.
later mapping
map of 1898. Large quarry with some evidence of
Gritstone)
Good
Penshaw Hill Quarry - shown on first edition OS of
bedding plans, and producing buildings stone as
well as lime for burning. First edition map shows
lime kiln in the centre (NTSMR )
63
15052
15053
Small Quarry
433476
18th
TW HER (3092)
(Limestone)
554323
century
First edition OS
Monument. First shown 25’ OS map (1856). Quarry
(1856) and all later
visible on scarp edge just below high level track (NT
mapping
SMR 15055). Overgrown with scrub and hawthorn.
Site Survey
Works tend to merge into later Penshaw Hill Quarry.
Moderate
Moderate
Limestone quarry on SE side of Penshaw
Small Quarry
433535
18th
TW HER (3092)
Limestone quarry on SSW side of Penshaw
(Limestone)
554433
century
First edition OS
Monument. First shown 25’ OS map (1856).
Measures approx. 30m across and lies in woodland
mapping
just off main track. No exposed face, hidden in
Site Survey
woodland. Probably producing lime for burning.
Associated with smaller quarry working (NT 14801)
and access track (NT 14801) further around scarp.
15054
Quarry
425714
18th
First edition OS
Good
Limestone quarry on west side of monument, just
(Limestone)
621884
century
below escarpment. Approx. 50m n-s, with areas of
mapping
exposed quarry face. Some stone blocks scatter at
Site Survey
base. Possible free stone quarry, or stone for local
building. Shown as disused in 1898.
14811
Sand Pit
433622
19th
TWHER (3090)
554383
century
1st edition OS Map
Not Found
Sand Pit shown on first edition OS map at the base
of Penshaw Hill, to the NE. Sand was important to
the local glass making industry at Sunderland. Lies
just outside the landholding.
64
15056
Trackway
433496
18th
Good/
Low level access track first shown clearly on 25" OS
554271
century
later mapping
Moderate
(1856) and runs behind Penshaw Hill House and up
433530
(Iron Age?)
Site Survey
to join the high level track (NTSMR 15055) to the
554246
east of the quarry. Track appears to take into
account a ridge of earthworks in this location, which
433606
might be associated with the farm or could be
554431
something earlier; possibly associated with the
proposed hillfort.
15060
Lime Kiln
433519
18th
1st edition 25” OS
554419
century
map
Destroyed
Lime kiln shown on 25” first edition OS map but no
evidence seen during field survey – believed
destroyed. Feature not shown on any later mapping.
15061
Building?
433319
18th
554550
century?
map
Destroyed
Building shown on 25” first edition OS map in the
north-west corner of Penshaw Wood but no
evidence seen during field survey – believed
destroyed. Feature not shown on any later mapping.
15062
Track
433257
18th
Poor –
Track through Penshaw Wood and Dawson’s
554321
century?
later mapping
largely
Plantation, first shown on 1st edition OS map, but
Site Survey
replaced
possibly earlier. Track largely disappeared by third
433490
by modern
edition (1939) and replaced with more uniform,
554649
path.
linear paths. Earlier track would have provided
access but might have also been intended to
433678
provide ‘rides’ for those appreciating the monument.
554915
65
14812
Hill Lane
433232
Post
Tithe and 1st edition
554304
Medieval
OS map, and all later
through earlier strip fields. Provides access to
editions
quarries on Penshaw Hill.
433007
Good
Hill Lane - probably post medieval track which cuts
Site Survey
554001
14802
Access Track
433287
18th or
Site Survey
554308
19th
access to the west quarry (NT SMR 15054) and to
century
map
the Monument from this direction. Tree lines with
Moderate
Track along western side of monument, provides
433313
hawthorn on one side (east). Maybe partly a
554347
practical path for quarry but also could be
associated
with
the
recreational
use
of
the
monument. Steps to the south drop down to high
level access path.
14800
Access track
433307,
18th or
Site Survey
Moderate
Short length of track through woodland leading from
554302
19th
main access road (Hill Lane) towards area of
century
map
quarrying (NT SMR 14801). Measures approx. 2m
433288
wide. Fragments of cut stone provide aggregate.
554306
Runs for approx. 30m. Not shown on OS map first
edition 25 inch does show a line of trees in this
location, possibly associated with a path.
66
14801
Quarry
433317
18th or
Site Survey
(Limestone)
554299
19th
a small quarry west of NTSMR 15053 on 25 inch
century
map
first edition map (see above extract). Associated
Moderate
Area of quarrying identified in field survey, shown as
with access track (NT SMR 14800). Measures
approx. 40m across and lies in woodland just off
main track. No exposed face, hidden in woodland.
Probably producing lime for burning.
14803
Pit and
433587
18th or
upcast bank
554874
19th
in diameter with a pronounced knoll of upcast soil to
century?
the west. Pit measures approx 1m deep and
(poss. Quarry
Site Survey
Moderate
pit)
A circular pit in Dawson’s Plantation - approx. 10m
associated knoll is 2m high. Function is unknown
but may be industrial. Does not look to be natural
e.g. tree bole, but located in Dawson’s Plantation so
could pre-date and maybe wood pasture related.
Similar to NTSMR 14804 – possibly quarry pit.
14804
Pit and
433584
18th or
upcast bank
554866
19th
pronounced knoll of upcast soil to the south. Pit
century?
measures approx 1.5 m deep and associated knoll
(poss. Quarry
Site Survey
Moderate
pit)
A circular pit, approx. 10m in diameter with a
is 1m high. Some exposed stone suggesting it may
be a quarry pit. Does not look to be natural e.g. tree
bole, but located in Dawson’s Plantation so could
pre-date and may be wood pasture related.
14805
Pit and
433533
18th or
upcast bank
554780
19th
diameter and approx 1.5 m deep. Does not look to
century?
be natural e.g. tree bole, but located in Dawson’s
(poss. Quarry
pit)
Site Survey
Moderate
A circular pit in Dawson’s Plantation, approx. 10m in
Plantation so could pre-date and may be wood
pasture related. Similar to NTSMR 14803 and
14804.
67
14807
Pit and
433254
upcast bank
554346
Unknown?
Site Survey
Moderate
A circular pit in Penshaw Wood, approx. 8m in
diameter and approx 1.5 m deep. Does not look to
(poss. Quarry
be natural e.g. tree bole. One of a series of pits
pit)
found in the woodland and similar to NTSMR 14803
and 14804 – probably quarry pits but may be
associated with other forms of industry.
15050
Penshaw
433397
Monument -
554377
Built 1844
Listed Building Grade
Good
Earl of Durham's Monument (formerly listed as G.V.
I (303203)
Penshaw Monument) I. Monument, in form of Greek
The Earl of
TW HER (3094)
temple, in memory of John George Lambton, first
Durham's
Earl of Durham (1792-1840), Governor-General of
Monument
later mapping
Canada and Grand Master of the Order of
NMR (26388)
Freemasons. The foundation stone of which was
laid on the 28th August 1844 by the Earl of Zetland.
Erected at an estimated cost of £6000 raised by
private
subscription.
Designed
by
John
and
Benjamin Green of Newcastle and built by the
engineer Thomas Pratt of Sunderland.
Comprises 4 x 7 columns, fluted Doric order, set on
ashlar gritstone stylobate with end pediments but no
roof. Designed based on Temple of Hephaestus in
Athens and is an important manifestation of the
Greek revival in the region, and a prominent
landmark, visible for many miles around. Held by
the trust since 1939.
68
15059
Quarry
433562
20th
3rd edition 25” OS
554636
century?
map (1939)
appears on 3rd edition OS map (1923) but appears
Site Survey
to be older than that on the ground, may have just
SSI designated site
been added later. Mag Lim. very crumbly so
433745
Good
554870
14806
15057
Old Quarry in Dawson's Plantation which first
probably quarried for lime burning. SSSI site.
Plashed
433250
18th or
Hedge
554486
19th
survives and is poorly maintained; surrounding area
century?
is heavily overgrown. Date uncertain.
Mapping
433384
Feature
554375
Modern
Site Survey
Site Survey
Poor
Good
Small area of plashed hedge – only small segment
O.S. Trig. Pillar on Penshaw Hill. Trig points no
longer maintained by Ordnance Survey.
69
Bibliography
Archaeo-Environment (AE) 2009 Limestone Landscapes - Historic Environment Audit and
Action Plan
Archaeological Research Services (ARS) 2008 County Durham Aggregates Project Report
Challis A J & Harding D W 1975 Later Prehistory from the Trent to the Tyne BAR 20.
Collis, J 1996 Hillforts, Enclosures and Boundaries. In: T.C. Champion & J.R. Collis eds. The
Iron Age in Britain and Ireland: recent Trends 1996, 87-89
Cooper, L 1959 Radical jack – The Life of the First Earl of Durham
Cummings, D 1996 The History of Penshaw
Durkin, J, 2008 Durham Magnesian Limestone Natural Area Woodland Inventory Report for
Durham Biodiversity Partnership – citing online reference >
(http://www.durhambiodiversity.org.uk/pdfs/MagMeadows/Durham%20Magnesian%
20Limestone%20Woodland%20Survey%202007.pdf) [accessed various]
English Heritage 2000 An Iron Age Hillfort and its environs on West Hill, Northumberland
English Heritage 2000 An Iron Age Hillfort on Fawcett Shank, Northumberland
English Heritage 1997 An Iron Age Hillfort on Humbleton Hill, Northumberland
Forde-Johnson J 1976 Hillforts of the Iron Age in England and Wales: A survey of surface
evidence.
Fordyce, W 1857 The History & Antiquities of the County Palatine of Durham
Halkon P & Millet, M 1999 Rural Settlement and Industry: Studies in Iron Age and Roman
Archaeology of Lowland East Yorkshire
Hutchinson, F 1794 The History and Antiquities of the County Palatine of Durham
English Nature undated Joint Character Area Profile available at:
http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ourwork/landscape/englands/character/areas/durham_magn
esian_limestone_plateau.aspx, [accessed various].
National Trust (2000)
Archaeology and the Historic Environment: Historic Landscape
Survey Guidelines
Northern Archaeological Associated 2003 Gates Hill Camp, Knaresborough, North Yorkshire:
Archaeological Earthwork Survey
Mills, A.D 2003 The Oxford Dictionary of British Place Names
Penshaw
Monument
Preservation
Society
citing
online
reference
>
http://www.penshawmonument.co.uk/History1.htm, [accessed various].
Petts, D 2006
Shared Visions: The North East Regional Research Framework for the
Historic Environment (NERRF)
Rackham, O. 1998 The History of the Countryside
Swanton, M 1986 Beowulf
Whellan, W 1894
The History, Topography and Directory of the County Palatine of Durham
Willis, S 1999 ‘Without and Within: Aspects of Culture and Community in the Iron Age of
North-eastern England’. In: B Bevan ed. Northern Exposure: interpretative
devolution and the Iron Age in Britain 1999. 86-94.
70
Appendix A - Summary of Vulnerability, Damage and Recommendations
(if SMR does not appear then no damage or risk identified)
NT_SMR
Name
Vulnerability
Landuse
Damage
Status
Vegetation
Mountain Bike
Tracks
Moderate
Recommendation
15052 Old quarry SE of Penshaw Monument, Penshaw Hill - shown on first edition map of 1860.
Low
Woodland
15051 Penshaw Hill Quarry - shown on first edition OS of 1860
Old quarry SSW of Penshaw Monument, Penshaw Hill - shown on first edition map of
15053 1860.
Medium
Recreational
Low
Woodland
Vegetation
15055 High level trackway associated with old quarry workings, Penshaw Hill
Low
Recreational
Mountain Bikes
15055 High level trackway associated with old quarry workings, Penshaw Hill
Low
Recreational
People (erosion)
Moderate
Monitor
Notes
Monitor
Divert vehicle
track off monument
Monitor to ensure that feature is not lost due to excess vegetation build up, but risk low.
Moderate
Monitor
Moderate
Monitor
Moderate
Monitor for damage caused by mountain bikes
15057 O.S. Trig. pillar, Penshaw Hill
Medium
Recreational
Vandalism
Potential
Monitor
Monitor to ensure that feature is not lost due to excess vegetation build up, but risk low
some track erosion, and where remedial measures have been taken in the instalation of steps,
people are 'stepping around' and eroding the bank.
some track erosion, and where remedial measures have been taken in the instalation of steps,
people are 'stepping around' and eroding the bank.
Trig points no longer maintained by OS so there is the potential that the feature could be dmaged
and vandalised, particulalry given its location.
15058 Boundary bank in Penshaw Wood - part of former Offerton/Painshaw township boundary .
Medium
Recreational
Vegetation
Moderate
Monitor
Monitor vegetation, particulalry ground cover at east end.
15059 Old Quarry in Dawson's Plantation, Penshaw - first appears on 3rd edition OS map (1939)
Track through Penshaw Wood and Dawson's Plantation - shown on first edition OS map
15062 (1860)
Low
Woodland
N/A
Recreational
Vandalism
Slight
Disturbance/Intrusio
n
Severe
Track through Penshaw Wood and Dawson's Plantation - shown on first edition OS map
15062 (1860)
N/A
Woodland
Disturbance/Intrusio
n
Severe
People have been having fires, and camping in the area - some fires burnt against quarry face - maybe particulalry
important in management of SSSI site.
Path was largely re-directed in the early 20th century. It is unclear which sections are orignal.
No action
GPS plotting along all the main paths might solve this, but given tree cover, this could be of limited use.
Path was largely re-directed in the early 20th century. It is unclear which sections are orignal. GPS plotting along all the
main
No action
paths might solve this, but given tree cover, this could be of limited use.
Monitor any damage cause by cattle grazing - presently damaged does not seem too bad but this
Reduce stock levels (cattle) might change, particular need to ensure that feeding and watering stations avoid the area.
Monitor
14799 Circular enclosure clearly visible on aerial photographs - unknown function
Medium
Pasture
Stock Damage
Moderate
14802 Access track shown on first edition OS map
14802 Access track shown on first edition OS map
Medium
Medium
Woodland
Woodland
Neglect
People (erosion)
Potential
Slight
14803 Circular pit and associated upcast knoll - function unknown but possibly quarry pit.
Medium
Woodland
Mountain Bikes
Potential
14803 Circular pit and associated upcast knoll - function unknown but possibly quarry pit.
Medium
Woodland
People (erosion)
Slight
14806 Example of plashed boundary hedge.
14807 Circular pit and associated upcast knoll - function unknown but possibly quarry pit
High
Medium
Woodland
Woodland
Neglect
People (erosion)
Severe
Slight
14809 Penshaw Hill, Iron Age Hill fort
Low
Pasture
People (erosion)
Slight
Monitor
Monitor
Preserve through
archaeological
record/survey
14809 Penshaw Hill, Iron Age Hill fort
14813 Penshaw Wood, block of probably Ancient sem-natural woodland
14813 Penshaw Wood, block of probably Ancient sem-natural woodland
Low
Medium
Medium
Pasture
Woodland
Woodland
People (erosion)
Mountain Bikes
Vandalism
Slight
Slight
Slight
Prepare Management Plan
Monitor
Monitor
Monitor
Monitor
Divert footpath off
monument
Divert footpath off
monument
To ensure erosion does not become a threat and that trees are well maintained.
To ensure erosion does not become a threat and that trees are well maintained.
Currently a minor path cuts across feature.
Currently a minor path cuts across feature.
Such a small fragment remains and in such a poor state that unclear what remedial activity to
take unless whole boundary is reinstated, but most associated trees dead and hedge replaced with fence. Possibly
record.
Is currently being used as a 'den' by local children.
Topographic survey of surviving 'ramparts' and further documentary research needed to
establish whether site is a hillfort. Furhter comparative study needed.
If site is a hillfort then management implications need to be considered; in particular erosion concerns.
Monitor and assess on regular basis to manage situation with vandals and mountain bikes.
Monitor and assess on regular basis to manage situation with vandals and mountain bikes.

Penshaw Management plan

Transcription

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