Modern Luxury Magazine, “One For The Road”

T R AV E L & R E C R E A T I O N
weekender
ONE FOR
the ROAD
Relais & Châteaux’s Southern Route du Bonheur
offers an epicurean expedition touring the
South’s poshest properties.
By Phebe Wahl
I
come from a family of foodies.
The women in our clan
dedicate an entire weekend
each year to simply swapping
recipes and sharing secrets
on how to best conquer
the classics of Julia Child.
Our family motto of “Eat a meal, plan a meal”
has often led to painstakingly planned itineraries centered
almost entirely on five-star food. I wholeheartedly believe
there is no better way to get a real taste for a region than
bite by bite. So when I stumbled across Relais & Châteaux’s
Southern Route du Bonheur, I was more than ready to take
my culinary curiosity on the road and explore the Southern
destinations topping every gourmand’s bucket list.
BLACKBERRY FARM
Nestled amid the Great Smoky Mountains on a pastoral
9,200-acre farm in Walland, Tenn., Blackberry Farm’s
gastronomic reputation (as a winner of three James Beard
Awards) proceeds itself. The Beall family has poured their
hearts and souls into developing a 62-room world-class
resort. As I settle into my cottage, charmingly dubbed “The
Wood Shed,” I see the loving hand of the family’s matriarch
(and director of design), Kreis Beall, in the small details of
the room—a soft throw in just the right spot for reading, a
screened porch offering the perfect perch to enjoy morning
coffee as the fog lifts over the Smokies. After a morning yoga
session on the property’s treetop platform and a tour of the
farm’s rolling and lush acres via horseback, my appetite is
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primed to experience the resort’s famed farm-to-table cuisine.
Every aspect of Blackberry is designed to slow down
the pace of life and savor the moment. The luxuriously
languid meals are no exception. As my group settles into
the impressively chic converted barn (imported from
Lancaster, Pa.), I surrender the reins to Executive Chef
Cassidee Dabney and Sommelier Andy Chabot, who lead
me through a magnificent multicourse tasting menu. The
collaborative effort of the award-winning Blackberry team
is apparent, and it is easy to see why Bon Appetit named the
property the No. 1 hotel for food lovers. Everyone who is
part of the impressive team—from the chef, master gardener,
baker, cheesemaker, butcher, jam lady and chocolatier to the
sommelier—showcases a true passion for his or her craft. I
can taste the thoughtful preparation in each and every morsel,
from a petite, fresh-picked pepper (charred and finished with
XO vinegar) to each perfectly paired wine selected from the
resort’s comprehensive 160,000-bottle cellar. Deeply rooted in
its regionality, Blackberry is farm-to-table cuisine at its finest,
focusing on the heritage of Southern foods and elevating
every aspect of the culinary craft to a true art. Rooms from
$895 a night, 1471 W. Millers Cove Road, Walland, Tenn.,
continued…
865.984.8166, blackberryfarm.com
FARMING IT OUT
From left: Caviar
with garden-fresh
vegetables grown
on-site at Blackberry
Farm; Blackberry
Farm offers a bucolic
setting overlooking
the Great Smoky
Mountains.
T R AV E L & R E C R E A T I O N
weekender
even the most highbrow gourmands. A
recent recipient of a Wine Spectator’s Award
of Excellence, Rowland’s Restaurant wows
dish after dish, but dessert is the true
showstopper. Playing off the locally made
soda, the Cheerwine Float (with Cheerwine
reduction and cherry espuma) illustrates the
culinary team’s playful reinterpretation of
regional favorites. Like its surrounding crisp,
mountain air, Westglow offers a refreshing
respite for rejuvenation amid the area’s most
spectacular setting. Rooms from $275 a night,
224 Westglow Circle, Blowing Rock, N.C.,
828.295.4463, westglowresortandspa.com
...continued
GET GLOWING Clockwise from top left: Westglow Resort &
Spa’s facility offers a sweeping vantage point overlooking Mayview
Gorge; the wooded yoga platform at Blackberry Farm offers a
serene spot to meditate; Westglow’s historic hotel offers stunning
views of both the sunset and sunrise.
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WESTGLOW RESORT & SPA
Sitting atop a prime precipice in the Blue
Ridge Mountains of North Carolina with
both sunrise and sunset views, Westglow
Resort & Spa offers a serene retreat for
wellness and an unexpected oasis of fine
cuisine. Constructed in 1917, the nationally
registered historic Greek Revival estate
was originally the summer home of famed
artist and writer Elliott Daingerfield.
Often rated among the world’s top
destination spas, Westglow’s breathtaking
facility offers sweeping views overlooking
Mayview Gorge. An indoor pool, new clay
tennis courts and walking trails allow guests
to relax and refresh in between treatments
featuring botanical-based skincare lines
such as Dr. Hauschka. Although the serene
setting might seem removed from the hustle
and bustle of big-city life, the surprisingly
sophisticated culinary team is sure to impress
THE FEARRINGTON HOUSE
INN, RESTAURANT & SPA
Tucked in a quaint village near Chapel Hill,
N.C., The Fearrington House Inn is the
realized dream of proprietor, developer and
longtime local R.B. Fitch. The Fearrington
has become a 40-year adventure for Fitch,
combining his Southern, small-town
upbringing with the style and charm of the
English villages he fell in love with during
his travels. Each of the 32 suites has been
individually designed and offers picturesque
garden views. The local shops offer beers,
cheeses and wines that guests can taste
while exploring the town’s boutiques.
The familial, village feel of The
Fearrington lends a warmth to the resort.
Octogenarian Fitch is still very hands on and
has a loving rapport with his award-winning
team that includes The Fearrington House
Restaurant’s Wine Director Maximilian
Kast and Executive Chef Colin Bedford. The
farm-to-fork food is ripe with regionality,
and updated versions of iconic Southern
continued…
chef Edna Lewis’ recipes
T R AV E L & R E C R E A T I O N
weekender
“When we started
Fearrington, there was
no firm ‘master plan’ in
mind, just an overall
concept to build a
village. I’ d been
charmed by the small
villages on the English
countryside during my
travels and before I knew
it, we had a Village of
our own to share with
guests.” –R.B. FITCH, FOUNDER,
THE FEARRINGTON HOUSE INN,
RESTAURANT AND SPA
...continued (like the chocolate souffle) remain on the
menu and are a true testament to the gospel of Southern
cuisine. Rooms from $325 a night, 2000 Fearrington Village
Center, Pittsboro, N.C., 919.542.2121, fearrington.com
IT TAKES A VILLAGE From top: The Fearrington’s winding
walkways add charm to the resort; house-cured bacon with
pickled cherries and beets at The Fearrington House Restaurant.
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THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON
Proprietor and chef Patrick O’Connell’s lifelong passion
project, The Inn at Little Washington in Washington, Va.,
is the perfect pièce de résistance to conclude our culinary
tour. O’Connell’s background in theater is apparent from the
moment I enter the storied destination that is a rite of passage
for every epicurean. The 24 guest rooms, aptly named after
America’s great culinary pioneers, and luxurious lounges have
been transformed from a former gas station into O’Connell’s
magnificent world of exotic and fantastical opulence, thanks
to interior design by London set designer Joyce Evans. From
the silk-fringed lampshades in the dining room and the
monkey mural in the singerie-style lounge to my ornately
decorated Jacques Pépin suite, the inn is unabashedly unique
and a true national treasure, just like O’Connell himself.
If there was any doubt about O’Connell’s penchant for
theatrics, our grand welcome to his inner sanctum of the kitchen
soon solidifies his reputation as the prince of pomp. The doors
swing open to reveal O’Connell, surrounded by the smoke of
incense being spread by our waiter masquerading as an altar
boy—and I instinctively bow and kiss the hand of the Holy
Father of Farm-to-Fork himself. The religious reference is no
continued…
joke. O’Connell operates his kitchen with
T R AV E L & R E C R E A T I O N
weekender
“I was supposed to have become
an actor but soon found the living
theater of the restaurant world
more compelling than the stage.”
–PATRICK O’CONNELL, CHEF AND PROPRIETOR,
THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON
...continued monastic discipline. Gregorian
chants play in the background, offering a
serene rhythm for which these top talents of
the nation synchronize their work. Known
as the “Pope of American Cuisine,” selftaught O’Connell pioneered the refined riff
on regional American cuisine and has earned
countless accolades throughout his 35-year
career for his innovative use of farm-fresh and
local products. The 80-seat restaurant offers
an ever-changing menu based on seasonality
and the expertly trained cast of characters—
ranging from the Cellar Mistress who reigns
over a 13,000-bottle arsenal to the charmingly
quirky cheese cart man—all resulting in an
experience unlike any other. “I was supposed
to have become an actor but soon found the
living theater of the restaurant world more
compelling than the stage,” O’Connell offers.
It is high drama that is worth every penny
of the price of admission. Rooms from $460
per night, 309 Middle St., Washington, Va.,
540.675.3800, theinnatlittlewashington.com
GRAND
THEATRICS
From top: The
Inn at Little
Washington’s
eclectic and
exotic interiors
are courtesy of
London-based
set designer
Joyce Evans; a
Napoleon of
Pommes Anna
with chilled
Maine lobster
and lobster
gazpacho at
The Inn at Little
Washington.
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A STORIED PAST
The Southern Route du Bonheur springs from
a rich heritage. As affluent Parisians made
their way south from Paris’ Gare de Lyon to
the Côte d’Azur aboard the famed Le Train
Bleu, haute hotels like La Cardinale—the
estate of Relais & Châteaux founders Marcel
and Nelly Tilloy—flourished along the
road that was built parallel to the route. The
Tilloys coordinated with partnering properties
to offer an enticing culinary itinerary,
encouraging travelers to explore. Soon, this
itinerary became known as La Route du
Bonheur or “Road of Happiness.” As other
outposts opened, the Tilloys recruited other
fine hoteliers that shared a passion for fine
cuisine, to form Relais & Châteaux. Today,
the collective offers more than 520 properties
worldwide in 64 countries with a collection
of 60 Routes du Bonheur throughout the
world, ranging from tours of Provence and
Tuscany to Napa Valley. relaischateaux.
com/us/destinations/routes-du-bonheur