Bone Broth Is The New Kale - Charlotte Living Magazine

VERY CULINARY
Bone Broth is the New Kale
Healthy Eating isn’t as Hard as it Seems
TEXT BY CHARLOTTE CULINARY EXPERT HEIDI BILLOTTO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GERIN CHOINIERE
Year in and year out food trends come and go.
Chefs follow suit, and food lovers go along with all,
until the next new thing comes along. Bacon out,
Coconut Oil in; Oatmeal out, Quinoa in; Kale out,
Brussels Sprouts in… and so it goes. This year all the
talk is about bone broth.
Like most new trends, this one isn’t really all so
new. If you, like me, are of the now 50-something
baby boomer generation, you’ll remember an old
would-be wive’s tale, that drinking unflavored gelatin dissolved in water would make your nails grow
faster and your hair grow fuller and shinier. Turns
out, this fad had some scientific backing; and bone
broth is actually the original version of this circa
1970s beauty tip.
Gelatin, you see, comes from animal collagen. It’s
a by-product made from boiling down the skin, tendons, knuckle meat and ligaments of cattle, pigs and
poultry. As an ingredient in our kitchen pantries, gelatin helps to thicken other ingredients, giving them
stability, volume and structure. In the same way gel-
Chef Clark Barlowe, chef/owner Heirloom Restaurant
atin binds sugar and fruit to make a gelatin dessert
homemade stocks. Gelatin is the reason eating
raised, caught or made in the state of North Carolina.
or sugar and water to make marshmallows, the gel-
homemade chicken soup helps to make you feel
He often buys whole animals from the many local
atin found in bone broth make our bones stronger,
better and stronger when you are sick – as you sip
farms he supports.
our skin more supple, diminishes the effects of
the soup, you glean the benefits of bone broth.
arthritis, and yes, makes our nails stronger and our
hair shinier.
The best way to get the benefits and help build
As a part of his homage to the animal and the
Making homemade bone broth is really the best
work of the farmer, Clark and his talented team
way to go, but to do it right, it takes a long time. You
don’t waste a thing – they use it all – from nose to
can’t substitute boxed or canned broth or bouillon,
tail. They make stock with the bones and the ten-
back the collagen in our own bodies isn’t really by
it’s simply not the same thing. The recipe for from-
dons and scraps, as do many other chefs in Charlotte
eating dissolved powdered gelatin, but instead by
scratch bone broth takes a mix of bones and tendons
who live the “Farm to Fork” credo. Clark’s freezer at
consuming the liquid or broth that comes when you
– knuckle meat is must have addition, several other
Heirloom is full of a variety of broths – most of them
boil down the bones and tissue of the animals we
ingredients and a lot of time – from as little as 12 to
bone broths, slow cooked and simmered to perfection.
harvest for meat.
as many as 72 hours of literally melting down the
cartilage and coaxing the marrow out of the bone.
IT’S A BACK TO BASICS PROCESS
In need of a quart or two for culinary or medicinal
purposes? Just give the restaurant a call, and they are
I know what you’re thinking, but don’t stop read-
happy to sell you whatever you need. Interested?
Know it or not, if you cook meat, you’ve already
ing now… Here is the happy news – you don’t have
Call Heirloom at 704.595.7710, and they’ll let you
had some experience in coaxing the gelatin from
to make it yourself. If you live in and around
know what they have in stock (pun intended, thank
bones and tendons – the basics of making your own
Charlotte, I’ve found chefs who have taken the time
you) and give you information on their very reason-
bone broth. If you need a visual here, think
to do it for you!
able pricing.
Thanksgiving when you cooked the turkey. As you,
family and guests enjoyed the feast – the roasting
The bone broths at Heirloom will shortcut any
HEIRLOOM RESTAURANT
recipe you have calling for homemade stock, and
liquids in the bottom of the pan cooled, becoming
Enter Clark Barlowe, chef and owner of Heirloom
once you’ve tasted the real deal, you’ll never go back
thick and gelatinous. While the turkey tasted good,
Restaurant in Charlotte’s Coulwood/Mountain
to the canned, boxed or powdered stuff. If you don’t
it’s the stuff in the pan that has the health benefits,
Island Lake neighborhood. Clark’s philosophy is that
want to cook, but still want to reap the bone broth
which is why you want to use it in your gravies and
he only serves protein, product and produce grown,
benefits, you can also simply eat out at Heirloom or
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VERY CULINARY
at any one of the three Asian restaurants in this
issue’s culinary spotlight. The chefs at all of these
establishments make slow cooked bone broths as a
base for their soups – go enjoy a vast array of meaty
broths and variations at any of this trio of dining
establishments, and you’ll feel all the healthier for it.
FUTO BUTA
Open in June of 2015, Futo Buta is a Japanese
Ramen shop located right on the light rail tracks in
Charlotte’s SouthEnd. Park the car on Bland Street or
on South Blvd. and walk around the block, over to the
tracks to enter the 35 seat restaurant from the corner
door. In season, the patio is a great place to people
watch; same holds true when you are seated inside.
A no reservation policy, community tables, at-theChef Michael Shortino,
owner/chef Futo Buta
bar seating and a handful of two tops means there is
sometimes a wait for a table – but take it from me,
the wait is worth it.
On the menu a short list of Izakaya or appetizers
and steamed buns are all long on flavor – don’t miss
the Rice Crispy Squares, the shishito peppers or the
Ramen at Doan's with beef broth, tofu and vegetables
seasonings are a perfect balance, and the egg, once
roasted beet and greens salad with Umeboshi dress-
broken, creates a second layer of rich fatty mouth
ing. Follow that with a half dozen or so ramen bowls
lbs. of whole chickens with select vegetables for each
and homemade soft serve ice cream to finish, and
batch. Shortino’s Dashi is made with house-made
you’ve got the menu.
kimchi and dried squid, as is called for in traditional
At the bar at Futo Buta are a host of high end
recipes. Chicken broth and the dashi combine to
sakes, wine, beer and sake-infused beverages such as
make the Miso ramen offering at Futo; while the
the hot lemon ginger sake cider made with fresh
dashi is the featured broth in a ramen with hot
pressed NC apple cider. Chef/owner Michael
smoked salmon called Fire and Ice. For vegetarians, I
Shortino uses as much local product as he can get. All
heartily recommend the Niwa Vegan Ramen. Made
Three generations of family at Doan's – Nancy Thai,
holding her grand daughter, with Hai Pham and
Andy Pham
his pork products come from Hickory Nut Gap farm
with a slow cooked roasted root vegetable and fresh
Orange” (blood orange ice cream with raspberry),
outside of Asheville, and the ramen is made in house
ginger broth, this bowl is served with ramen, roasted
and “I Love You So Matcha” (made with green tea
with Lindley Mills organic Carolina-grown winter
organic mushrooms, cabbage, arugula and sesame.
and honey).
wheat flour.
The flour is whole wheat, so the ramen at Futo is
While there is no bone broth effect, it is a delicious
offering you won’t want to miss.
For more, go eat at Futo Buta and taste for yourself. 222 E. Bland Street. Tuesday-Thursday 11 am –
often mistaken for buckwheat noodles, but they are
Finally, there is the Chizu noodle bowl, a ramen
not. Normally a mix of flours are blended to create
dish which pays homage to Shortino’s childhood
noon – 10 pm. No reservations. 704.376.8400 Visit
the perfect balance of gluten to make ramen noo-
when he used to eat packaged ramen noodles on a
FutoButa.com @FutoButaRamen on Instagram &
dles, but as luck would have it, this particular strain
daily basis. Back then he tossed out the dry season-
Twitter and FutoButa on Facebook.
of NC winter wheat weighs out at what is already
ing packet and created his own broth with fresh
10 pm; Friday and Saturday 11 am – 11pm; Sunday
the perfect balance. Kudos to Lindley Mills – who
lemons, chilies and cilantro – now he bathes his
knew? In the Futo kitchen, chefs make noodles all
fresh made ramen with minced shisho leaves, fer-
When I first tasted the Vietnamese bone broth
day every day, and cook them to order.
mented garlic oil and a bit of fresh grated pecorino.
known as Pho (as in the third syllable of Fe-Fi-Fo-
The dish is a fun play on a fond memory for this tal-
Fum), I was in heaven. This traditional Vietnamese
To keep up with the broth consumption, Shortino
and his team make one or two of the three featured
broths every day, rotating production on a daily
ented chef.
While Shortino is serious about how and what he
DOAN’S RESTAURANT
noodle soup has everything – a distinct melding of
sweet, salty, spicy and hot flavors of citrus, sauces
basis, so that each broth has the proper time to cook.
cooks, he is all about a little playfulness with the
and fresh herbs combined with slow cooked beef
The traditional Tonkotsu ramen includes Futo’s long
menu, naming his ramen dishes: "Miso Hungry",
bone broth and tender Asian noodles – it’s all you’d
ever want in one bowl.
cooked rich pork broth, pecan smoked pork belly,
"Shoyu (a) Good Time"; one of his appetizers, "Rice
scallions, organic mushroom, and onsen (soft boiled)
Crispy Squares" and his soft serve ice creams:
When asked to offer my favorite place for Pho in
egg, pickled ginger, seaweed, and black garlic. The
“Southern Hippie Chick” (ginger peach ice cream
Charlotte, I do not hesitate to say Doan’s Restaurant
flavor, as one might expect, is big and bold; but the
drizzled with wildflower honey), “A Clockwork
on South Blvd. Open in Charlotte for four years now,
Futo Buta's traditional Tonkotsu ramen bowl
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scene – CO at Park Road Shopping Center. The shop-
noodles, shredded purple cabbage, and mint all
Vietnamese restaurant has fast become a favorite of
ping center has undergone renovations and a facelift
steeped in a spicy beef based chili broth; and a deli-
Charlotteans from one end of the city to the other.
this past year both to the parking lot and the façade.
cious Curry Laksa served with shrimp, shredded
Andy Pham and his mother Nancy Thai run the
The addition and design of CO has upped the bar,
chicken, rice noodles, shredded cucumber, Thai basil,
front of the house while Andy’s dad Hai Pham runs
making Park Road trendy again. The gorgeous and
baby bok choy all in a spicy coconut broth. If you love
the kitchen. Andy’s daughter is the little one stealing
dramatic interiors feature a circular bar at its center
the Curry Laksa as I did, then also consider the Curry
everyone’s hearts.
point, with family style communal tables, high tops
Shrimp, this is not a soup as such, but a small saucy
this authentic family owned and operated
The menu is large with all sorts of great tasting
and smaller tables up front for parties of 1- 4. In the
starter and a great way to kick off your meal. It
dishes from the salt and pepper fried crispy quail to
late spring or summer of 2016, look for a beautiful
comes dressed with yellow curry, Thai Chili, Thai
the Vietnamese Pancake to the vegetarian curry
patio tucked in at the side of the restaurant, so you
basil and a lightly seasoned garlic baguette perfect
dishes – really, one is better than the next; but try as
can sip your bone broth al fresco.
for sopping up all the tasty curry goodness.
I might, when it comes to my standard Doan’s order,
I just can’t seem to move past the Pho.
Self-described as Asian Fusion, this Queen City
The Charlotte location of CO also offers delicious
location is the sister restaurant to the first incarna-
dumplings, Asian inspired salads, and several sushi
selections which range from Maki style sushi to a
Pham makes three types of basic broth at Doan’s.
tion of CO in Charleston and a third location in
His beef broth is the anchor for all the flavors in most
Myrtle Beach, SC. The menu offers something for
unique pressed sushi where spicy tuna, salmon,
of Doan’s Pho variations. Three – sometimes more –
everyone (including those who are vegan or gluten
glazed eel and avocado or inari tofu are layered
times a week, he starts a pot of his broth with 50 lbs.
free) from sushi and infused sakes, to delicious cur-
between sheets of seasoned rice and then cut into
of beef bones and 20 lbs. of beef brisket. Each pot of
ries to stir fry. The word “CO” in Vietnamese means
cubes – delish!
broth is cooked low and slow from 18-20 hours until
feast, and that’s what owner Greg Bauer wants his
Try a taste at CO, in Charlotte at 4201 Park Road –
all of the beef and the goodness from the bones has
guests to do – enjoy, have fun with friends and feast
Park Road Shopping Center. 980.237.4655. To see the
had time to melt down into the water. For his vege-
on the many options the kitchen at CO offers. Broths
entire menu visit EatAtCO.com and follow the CO
tarian broth, Pham carefully combines the flavors of
at CO are made from scratch, slow-cooked and
crew on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.
jicama, carrot, apple, corncobs and parsnip with
enriched with tasty combinations of flavor to develop
water and spices to cook for 6-8 hours. Even though
the list of pho, ramen and curry bowl offerings.
there is no gelatin to coax out in the vegetarian ver-
The pho comes in several variations to the theme
sion of Doan’s broth, the slow cooking is essential to
and is served traditionally with sides sprouts,
bring out the flavor.
A quick thanks to Zoe Eagan from Proffitt Family
Farms, a local organic cattle ranch in Kings Mountain,
for help with our clever title!
jalapenos, sriracha and hoisin. The ramen is pork-
More from Heidi – For more on the benefit of bone
On the menu at Doan’s are 10 varieties of pho. If
centric, topped with the traditional poached egg.
broth and for a recipe on how to make your own,
you are ordering based on bone broth health bene-
Hard to pick a favorite here, but if pressed I would go
read the book Nourishing Traditions by Sally Fallon –
fits alone, then you should go with a variety that
with the spicier offerings: a not-for-the-faint-of
touted as the cookbook that challenges politically
includes cuts of beef. If you are going for the benefits,
heart Bun Bo Hue offers sliced brisket and lemon-
correct nutrition and the diet Dictocrats – I think
color and flavor, then order as I do and get the beef
grass braised pork arranged atop a of bowl of rice
you’ll find it an interesting read.
broth with the addition of crispy fried tofu and
mixed vegetables. In any case, you’ll get a side of
bean sprouts, fresh herbs, a lime wedge, and several
slices of jalapeno.
You can dress your pho to suit your taste with the
spicier chili paste or the sweeter hoisin sauce provided at the table. Also on the menu look for
steamed and fried rice entrees, stir fry, vermicelli
dishes, pad Thai, curries and a host of seafood and
vegetarian dishes – you won’t go wrong with whatever you order and the staff will help make you feel
like a member of the family. Taste for yourself at
Doan’s Restaurant 5937 South Blvd. 704-733-9077.
Open Monday – Wednesday & Thursday 11 am –
9:30 pm; Friday and Sat 11 am – 10 pm; Sunday 11
am – 8:30 pm. Closed Tuesday. Follow Doan's on
Facebook and Instagram.
CO
My third restaurant selection in this bone-baring
trilogy is one of the newest to the Charlotte culinary
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A bowl of Bun Bo Hue at CO offers a blend of braised beef and pork with vegetables in a spicy beef-based chili broth.
The beautiful bar at CO