Auto Buyer Secrets Blueprint Daniel B.McGrath

Transcription

Auto Buyer Secrets Blueprint
Daniel B.McGrath
For More Expert Advice and Reviews visit www.DansAutoBlog.com
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All Cars Are Not Created Equal.............................................................................................5
Chapter 1: Preparing Yourself to View the Vehicle ................................................6
Vehicle History Check ...........................................................................................................6
Arrival ....................................................................................................................................6
Mental Preparation .................................................................................................................7
Be Prepared To Walk..............................................................................................................7
Advice from an old hand........................................................................................................7
Relax, it's all ahead of you! ....................................................................................................8
Chapter 2: Bodywork ................................................................................................9
Panel Gap ...............................................................................................................................9
Paintwork .............................................................................................................................10
Minor Or Major Accident Damage ? ...................................................................................12
Bodywork Summary ............................................................................................................12
Chapter 3: Tires .......................................................................................................13
Checking the Tires ...............................................................................................................13
Tire Summary ......................................................................................................................14
Chapter 4: The Interior ............................................................................................15
Leather .................................................................................................................................16
Steering Wheel and Gear Lever ...........................................................................................16
Foot Pedals ...........................................................................................................................19
Door Panel, Light switches, Key and Keyhole ....................................................................19
Interior Summary .................................................................................................................19
Chapter 5: Information and Warning Lights .........................................................21
Information and Warning Lights Summary .........................................................................22
Chapter 6: Engine ...................................................................................................23
Service History ....................................................................................................................23
Engine Oil Check .................................................................................................................23
Engine Water Check.............................................................................................................23
Engine Temperature - Keep it cool! .....................................................................................24
Engine Temperature .............................................................................................................24
Blow By - It's a blow out! ....................................................................................................24
Engine Summary .................................................................................................................24
Engine Smoke ......................................................................................................................26
Engine Smoke Table.............................................................................................................26
Engine Test...........................................................................................................................27
Start Your Engines ...............................................................................................................27
Engine Summary .................................................................................................................27
Chapter 7: Transmission ........................................................................................29
Automatic Transmission ......................................................................................................29
Automatic Transmission Summary ......................................................................................29
Manual Transmission and Clutch.........................................................................................30
Manual Transmission and Clutch Summary ........................................................................30
2
Constant Velocity (CV) Joints on Front Wheel Drive and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles ......31
Constant Velocity (CV) Joints Summary .............................................................................31
Chapter 8: Additional Test Drive Checks ..............................................................32
Test Drive Summary ............................................................................................................32
Chapter 9: Negotiating ............................................................................................33
Be Friendly but Firm............................................................................................................33
Take a Deep Breath ..............................................................................................................34
Chapter 10: The 8 "Walk Away" Rules ..................................................................36
Conclusion ...............................................................................................................37
Copyright 2011 © - Daniel B. McGrath – All Rights Reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of the
author. While the author has used his best efforts in preparing this book he makes no representations or warranties with
respect to the accuracy or completeness of this book and specifically disclaim any warranties of merchantability or fitness
for purpose. The author shall not be liable for any loss or damage caused by the reliance of information contained therein.
3
Foreword
Hello, I'm Dan Mc Grath and thanks for downloading
The Auto Buyer Secrets Blueprint.
Throughout the past 20 years I have
worked in the automotive field in
various countries of the world. During
my travels I realised that inspecting
and buying a used car is by and large
a similar process across countries
and regions.
I struggled for years buying cars,
many of which turned out to be true
nightmares. It wasn't until I uncovered several simple,
systematic checks, that must be carried out on each car - that
I began to develop a Blueprint for buying used cars.
The Auto Buyer Secrets Blueprint is the result of over 20 years honing and fine-tuning the used car
buying process.
Here's what you will learn from the report:
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!
!
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How to prepare yourself to view the car
Key inspection areas
The ‘8 Walk Away Rules’
Simple strategies to negotiate and close the deal
If you find the Blueprint valuable in your search for a used car, be sure to recommend it your family
and friends. They can download their copy by visiting www.autobuyersecrets.com.
Sincerely,
Daniel B. Mc Grath
4
IMPORTANT: Start Here
All Cars Are Not Created Equal
Throughout the blueprint you will find tables of possible faults. At the right there are three columns
labelled "Deal Breaker" A, B, and C. These columns correspond to the three cars below:
CAR A:
10-year-old Small Family Car, e.g. Toyota Corolla
CAR B:
6-year-old Mid-Size Family Car, e.g. Audi A6
CAR C:
2-year-old 4x4 SUV x, e.g. Honda CRV
For example: a minor paint repair on a 10-year-old Toyota Corolla would not be a deal breaker,
assuming the price is adjusted accordingly; however, the same fault on a 2-year-old Honda CRV
would be. If you decided to sell the Corolla after a year or two, the minor damage should not affect the
price too much. However, the same isn’t true for the 3- or 4-year-old Honda CRV with body damage –
the minor damage will have a substantial effect on the buying decision.
Simply put, as the value of the car increases, minor faults will have a greater influence on your final
buying decision.
No time to go through the whole book?
Check out Chapter 10: The 8 ‘Walk Away’ Rules
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5
Chapter 1: Preparing Yourself to View the Vehicle
Before going to view the car, it's always a good idea to
seek out owners of the same model car to ask for their
opinion of it. This is an important step when preparing to
view the car because this information paints an accurate
picture of potential day-to-day issues which could
greatly influence your decision to buy, such as reliability,
running costs, maintenance, fuel economy, driveability,
etc. A quick web search of "owner car reviews" will yield
numerous tales of past owners' years of bliss or
heartache with any particular car.
Also keep in mind that people are much more motivated
to spread bad news if they're dissatisfied than they are
to spread good news if they're satisfied. If someone has
owned a car that gave constant heartache, they'll be
itching to tell their story to warn the public of the potential trouble they face, or to vent their anger at
the manufacturer or useless agent. Ultimately, we are usually less likely to leave a review of a car that
performed well and met our expectations when we bought it.
Vehicle History Check
Get the chassis number I.D or vehicle registration number from the seller and have a vehicle history
check carried out. This check among other things will show you any previous accidents, if any loans
are outstanding or if its been stolen. Do not skip this check, its a critical point which should be
carried out, irrespective of who you are buying from.
Check out my advice page at : www.DansAutoBlog.com/VehicleCheck
Arrival
Avoid
late in
Never view a car while the bodywork is wet, covered in ice, snow or very dirty.
arriving
the
afternoon. Sunlight later in the day is much kinder to bodywork than sunlight earlier in the day. If you
can, arrive when the sun is high in the sky & any scratches or imperfections in the paint will be most
visible. Give yourself plenty of time to view the car too - allow yourself at least an hour. You want to
arrive relaxed and under no pressure to make an ill-informed decision.
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Be sure to inspect the car when the paint-work is clean and dry. In an attempt cover an less than
perfect body, the seller may chose a wet or frosty day to show the car. They can also leave the car to
get dusty or dirty so as to conceal scratches or bodywork damage beneath.
Mental Preparation
Be friendly right from the word "go."
Being sociable has important implications further
along, should you end up trying to buy the car. Being
friendly sets the tone and lets the vendor relax a little.
Whether it's a private or dealer sale, you are more
likely to get to the hidden truth – if there is any – if you
are friendly with the seller.
Smile, be courteous – engage in small talk. Building a
bond with the seller will make it easier for him or her
to explain the good, the bad, and the sometimes ugly
aspects of the car with ease. I'll discuss this in more
detail in Chapter 9: Negotiating.
Be Prepared To Walk
While you want to be friendly to the owner, it's also
important to maintain a comfortable distance. Should
you see or hear something you don’t like in the car, you should be in a position to easily extract
yourself from the buying process. This means your goal is to start the viewing process with the
intention that if the car is not what you had hoped for, you can politely thank the seller for showing the
car and gently withdraw from the sale.
We all hope that the car we are about to view is the one that has been garaged from new, serviced
from new by the Main Agent, and lovingly pampered every Saturday morning by a fussy owner. The
reality is that cars in anything close to this condition account for only 20% of cars on the road at best.
So with the remaining 80% of cars on the road in varying states of disrepair, we need to approach
viewing any car with our eyes wide open. Our senses need to be on red alert to any cover-ups and
shenanigans.
Advice from an old hand....
One of the best pieces of advice I received over the years is perhaps also the most ambiguous – it
goes something like this: “if you have any suspicion that all is not as it seems, use your gut instinct
and walk.”
Often I will be checking over a car, asking questions, and I just can't put my finger on why I'm feeling
uneasy about the car. It's only after leaving the scene that I realise what exactly was giving me the
"something's not adding up here" feeling. If you do get this feeling, just make sure you leave before
putting your hand in your pocket!
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Relax, it's all ahead of you!
Don’t fret though – follow the steps outlined in The Auto Buyer Secrets Blueprint and you can be
confident that you have carried out a thorough inspection which will uncover any serious gremlins,
should there be any.
Right, let's get to it!
8
Chapter 2: Bodywork
Panel Gap
Panel gap is the single most obvious indicator that the vehicle has had an accident.
Have a good look around the front headlight and
Step back and look at the car from about six
feet away and check the gap between each
panel i.e. between the front and rear doors,
between the front door and front fender etc.,(1)
(arrowed) Do they look regular, parallel or are
they tapering off at one side ?
Check the panel
fit from straight
on and from the
side. Run your
fingers back and
forth across the
gap(2). Each
panel should be
smooth and flush
Check each side of the car in succession; using a pen or pencil as a guide check the gap
between the door and the front fender on the left(1)(2)(3). Now check the right fender and door.
The aim of this check is to discover a difference between each side of the vehicle. If there is
then its probable that either a fender and/or door has been damaged. Continue this check
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bumper area. It's fairly tricky after a frontal accident to accurately align all the parts back to the factory
dimensions. Look for tapering lines, particularly bumpers and headlights off the plumb.
The gap between the right
headlight here(2) and the
hood is higher than the
left(1) in this VW Passat.
Possible reasons; accident
damage, bumper assembly
removed for
servicing(Timing belt
replacement) hood
removed. Secondary check
required: inspect paint
finish (explained later in
Always assume the worst unless you learn otherwise. An irregular panel gap may just mean the car
had a small bump, but if you can't confirm that it hasn’t suffered a hard smash, then assume that it has
and just walk away.
We would need to slide underneath the car and inspect the chassis inch by inch to check the car
properly for serious accident damage. As this isn’t normally practical, if we see irregular panel gap it's
safest to assume that the car has had a serious accident.
Paintwork
Stand about six feet from the car and inspect each panel in turn, comparing one with the next as you
go. Is the color of each panel the same? Step back a bit further to confirm. Systematically check each
panel against the next in turn. It's a good idea to look at the same panel at different angles too, as
sometimes the color difference is not visible with light shining on the panels at one particular angle.
Pictures(1) and (2) of the
same VW Golf, illustrate the
importance of viewing the
car from different angles.
The difference in color
between the fender and
door in picture (2) is clearly
visible, however the
difference is more difficult to
detect in picture (1).
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A difference in color indicates a difference in old and new paint. It may have had minor or major
accident damage or may have had a panel replaced due to corrosion.
Picture(1) shows a close-up of a
panel which has been repaired
using body filler. Notice the
surface imperfections where the
body filler has not been correctly
sanded (arrowed red) compared
to the correctly finished area
(arrowed white).
Check around the keyhole to see if the car may have been stolen or sustained damage in an
attempted theft. Look for dents or deep scrapes around the keyhole.
Look out also for areas where the repair shop may have made some ‘over spray’. This occurs when
the spray painter inadvertently covers an area of the car with additional over-sprayed paint coming
from the paint gun. When you see it, you know that the vehicle has been in a body shop. Look for
overspray on rubber door seals and plastic mouldings & door strips around the car.
Crouch down and check the front
and rear bumpers. Typically the
corners will have gotten the worst
abuse from ill-judged maneuvers.
It's fairly common to have one or
two scuffs on a 50,000-mile car,
picture(1). However, they tend to be
of little significance on older cars
and can be repaired fairly cheaply
and easily by a mobile touch-up
operator.
Open all the doors to make sure they open and close smoothly. If it's a driver-only car, the passenger
and rear doors may be stiff due to lack of use – this can be fixed with a little release oil. A high-mileage
car typically will have play in the door hinges. To check this, open the driver's door and lift it up and
down slowly enough to feel if the door end moves.
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Minor Or Major Accident Damage ?
If we are able to detect a change in color of only one panel of the car, then its safe to assume the
vehicle has had a fairly minor repair, as in the case of the VW Golf example. Perhaps the fender was
badly dented or scraped.
However if checking the car has highlighted a larger repaired area; the two front fenders, bumper and
hood for example, its likely that the car has suffered some structural damage and it would be best well
avoided.
Crucially, if you do notice a change in color or a panel gap which suggests an accident and you are
not able to determine the extent of the damage assume the worst, save yourself the worry and look
elsewhere for your new transportation.
Bodywork Summary
Description Of Fault
Irregular Panel Gap
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
Minor Accident Damage
4
No
Yes
Yes
Major Accident Damage
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Corrosion, Panel Repaired or
Replaced
5
No
Yes
Yes
Minor Damage Repaired
4
No
No
Yes
Major Damage Repaired
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Faded Paint (Sun/ Wash
Damage)
3
No
No
Yes
Corrosion – Panel Repaired or
Replaced
5
No
Yes
Yes
Minor Accident Damage
4
No
Yes
Yes
Major Accident Damage
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Bumper Scuffed
Poorly Judged Low-speed
Maneuver
3
No
No
Yes
Doors
Stiff / Difficult to open
1
No
No
No
Play in driver's door or other
doors' hinges
6
No
Yes
Yes
Difference in Paint Color
Over Spray
12
Chapter 3: Tires
To most people a tire is a tire. To others, tires offer a glimpse into the past owners' degree of care or
lack thereof, whichever the case may be. Tires come in all shapes and sizes, and more importantly,
makes. A good-quality tire is a great indicator of the fussiness of the last owner. It's another tick for or
against the car you are looking at. It's a guide which you can quietly use to your advantage either to
corroborate or quash other tales coming from the seller. Take a note of the following (non-exhaustive)
quality brand name tires: Bridgestone, Michelin, Firestone, Dunlop, Goodyear, Pirelli, Vredstien.
The owner who will scrimp and save a few dollars on poor-quality tires is likely to scrimp and save on
other maintenance too.
Checking the Tires
Turn the steering wheel full lock to the left or right. Get down and check the tire all across its
width. It should have a constant thread depth along the full width from (1) to (2). Often a worn
tire will have lost its tread at the outside or inside (3, arrowed)before anywhere else. This can
be due to loose suspension and steering joints, misalignment of the steering, accident damage,
or incorrectly inflated tires.
A quick check of the tires should reveal whether they are looking a little low in air. Play in the steering
can be checked while driving (see Chapter 10). It's a process here of elimination: check tire pressures
first, steering/suspension next, and finally consider the possibility of accident damage – a close
inspection of the bodywork (Chapter 1) will confirm this. Other tire faults to watch for include aged
tires, which will show fine cracks and bulges due to curbing or driving over some form of road debris.
Changing tires like these is the simplest option.
A front tire which is out of balance will make the steering wheel shake from side to side while driving at
speed. A damaged rim can also give the same result. If the back wheel is out of balance, then this
shaking will be transmitted throughout the car and into the base of the seat with the steering wheel
remaining steady. A shaking steering wheel is a really disconcerting feeling while driving, but thankfully
it's a fairly common problem and fixed easily by getting the wheel balanced at a tire shop.
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Tire Summary
Uneven Tire Wear
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
Low/High Tire Pressure
1
No
No
No
Steering/ Suspension Wear
4
No
No
Yes
Steering Misalignment
2
No
No
No
Accident Damage
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Cracked/Bulging Tires
Age and/or Road Damage
2
No
No
No
Steering Wheels Shakes
while Driving
Front Wheel(s) Out of Balance
3
No
No
No
5
No
Yes
Yes
3
No
No
No
5
No
Yes
Yes
Damaged Front Wheel rim(s)
Seat / Car Shakes while
Driving
Rear Wheel(s) Out of Balance
Damaged Rear Wheel Rim(s)
14
Chapter 4: The Interior
The primary aim of inspecting the interior of a car is to decide if the odometer reading has been
tampered with to reduce the indicated mileage, known in the auto trade as "clocking." Of course while
checking the interior for signs of high mileage, you will also discover the general condition of the car
and the care given by the previous owner(s).
The first place to look is the driver's seat bolster. This side of the seat - nearest the driver's door - gets
the most abuse due to the rubbing action of the driver's clothes and the seat while getting in and out of
the car.
Fabric
Typically the fabric seat bolster of a car with 120,000–150,000 miles will begin to break down. Initially
this is internal, with the seat foam beginning to disintegrate leaving the side or base of the seat (next
to the driver's door) looking decidedly flat, twisted, or bulging. The seat fabric will become wrinkly, then
begin to fray, and will finally produce a gaping hole exposing the foam beneath.
This car has 171,000Miles on the
clock. The fabric has worn through,
the foam is breaking down exposing
the metal frame beneath(arrowed)
Bear in mind the light driver wearing smooth-fabric clothes with cause significantly less damage than a
heavy driver wearing studded jeans. Estimating the mileage of a car is only that, an estimate.
15
Leather
The leather seat can generally weather the test of time and high miles better than a fabric seat, which
makes it much harder to estimate the correct mileage. Extremely hot climates will also prematurely
age a leather interior.
This picture shows a Lexus GS300 with
a leather interior. It has travelled
225,000 miles, and the driver's seat is
virtually unmarked. Notice the leather at
the base of the seat has been stretched
(arrowed). The damage could be
caused by a heavy driver or the suns
UV rays. You will have to look elsewhere
when deciding if the odometer of a
leather-clad interior has had a haircut!
Steering Wheel and Gear Lever
The steering wheel should be checked for signs of wear. The plastic variety are manufactured with a
grain or dimpling effect to aid grip while driving. Look at this texture on a part of the steering wheel that
isn’t normally held during driving. Now compare this "untouched" area with the outside of the steering
wheel at the 1:50 mark (i.e., on an analogue clock face; the left hand would be resting at‘10’ and the
right hand would be resting at ‘2’), which is normally the most commonly grasped area of the steering
wheel. Wear can begin to show at around 70–80K miles, although German-built cars tend to fare
better and can easily cover 100-120K miles without any sign of wear. In general, any wear on the
steering wheel will indicate a car has at least 70K miles, and in some cases wear will start only at
120K miles.
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This picture of a steering wheel is of a
VW Golf with with 194,000 miles.
Amazingly the grain effect appears not
to have worn off, although upon closer
inspection, a little wear can been seen
at the centre of the wheel(arrowed),
perhaps where a thumb was resting.
The plastic gear lever of a stick shift (manual gearbox) can begin to wear at the 50K mark, with the
automatic transmission shifter beginning to wear towards 70K-80K, as it's not moved as often while
driving. Leather steering wheels and gear levers, just like the leather seats, tend to be more difficult to
read. Rings and other jewelry can quickly destroy a leather steering wheel in a short period of time.
This picture is from the same 225,000miles Lexus GS300. As before, don’t
try to judge the mileage of a car with a
leather steering wheel.
! !
GET IT HERE!
17
This picture is from a car with
171,000miles. The brake pedal(1) is
wearing at the edge(arrowed). While the
rubber grip on the gas pedal(2) is
missing.
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Foot Pedals
Put the key in the ignition and turn it
until a row of information lights
illuminate on the dashboard. Make
sure you can see the anti lock braking
system ABS light (1) and Air Bag
light(2) come on, and then go off again
after few seconds. The red engine oil
pressure light(3) should also come on
and then turn off again once the engine
is started. Start the engine to make
sure the light goes off.
Switch the ignition on and off a few
times to make sure all is well.
Over
time
the treaded pattern on the brake, clutch, and gas pedals will disappear. Foot pedals on cars with high
mileage will slowly fade, most commonly on a corner of the pedal only. Again, estimating mileage
based on wear is an estimate – people have different driving styles, and some push hard on the brake
pedal while others will anticipate the road and use engine braking to slow down. As a result, the
pedals will suffer less wear and tear.
Door Panel, Light switches, Key and Keyhole
The driver's door panel is next for inspection. Power window switches and door handles should be
looked at closely. Note that switches with white writing on a black surface can look worn, but are in
reality only extremely dirty – take a closer look to confirm. Have a good look too at the keyhole. Does
the area look worn? In cars with under 70K miles, this area should not be worn. Have a look at the key
too, as the key of a car with under 50K miles should look new.
Interior Summary
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
Fabric Seat Damage
Excessive Wear High Mileage
120k +
7
No
Yes
Yes
Steering Wheel Wear
Mileage 70K +
5
No
No
Yes
Foot Pedal Wear
Mileage 70–120K +
5
No
No
Yes
19
General Interior Wear; Door
Panel/Switches
Cause
High Mileage / Careless Owner
Serious
0-10
6
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
No
Yes
Yes
20
Chapter 5: Information and Warning Lights
It's important that these lights do actually come on first and then turn off. An unscrupulous vendor
selling a car with an ABS/Air bag/Engine fault may attempt to disguise it. Get in close and look closely
at the instrument panel – the offending light bulb may have been removed, painted, or taped over to
disguise the fault.
While you're in there, take a close look at the instrument panel. If someone has been tampering with
the odometer they may have left some evidence. Look for hairs or fingerprints inside the instrument
panel glass. It's important to note that many modern cars with digital odometers do not need to have
the instrument panel removed to adjust the mileage. Purpose-built handheld computers simply attach
to the car's diagnostic port and the clocker types in the new mileage – the job is done in a few
minutes.
This makes your visual inspection of the interior all the more critical; one overly-worn area of the foot
pedal, stitching on the seat starting to fray, the electric window switch worn more than the rest – any of
these in isolation is enough to warrant closer inspection. As always when buying a car, if you have any
doubt that all is not what it seems, use your gut instinct and walk away.
Oil filler Cap (1) Dipstick (2) Engine Water
21
Information and Warning Lights Summary
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
7
Yes
Yes
Yes
ABS Illumination Light
Staying ON
ABS Sensor / System Fault
Air Bag Illumination Light
Staying ON
Air Bag System Fault / Airbag
has been deployed
8
Yes
Yes
Yes
Engine Illumination Light
Staying ON
Engine Oil Pressure Low / Oil
Pressure Switch or System
Faulty
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Hair/Fingerprints inside glass
of instrument panel
Instrument panel opened.
Odometer may have been
adjusted
6
No
Yes
Yes
It will be hot, but squeeze it
briefly. It should be firm but not
rock-hard.With the engine
warm, a normal radiator pipe
should feel like squeezing a
soft ripe orange(2), as opposed
to squeezing a potato.
22
Chapter 6: Engine
Open the hood and check the engine – it should be dry. Dust and grime is fine but it should be dry
without any visible oil leaks. Look very carefully to see if the engine looks newly washed. The seller
could be hiding an oil leak, although this is not always the case. Some people prefer to have the
engine bay washed after a service or in preparation for sale.
Carefully (it could be very hot!) check to see if the engine is warm. Sometimes an engine, diesels in
particular, can be difficult to start from cold so the seller will disguise this by kindly pre-heating it in
advance of your arrival. Unless he has a good reason, an alarm bell should sound if you find the
engine warm. We want to experience the car as we would in normal day-to-day driving – from cold,
then again after it has heated up. Be wary if the seller doesn't offer a good reason why the engine is
warm. A warm engine could be hiding worn valve stem seals, failed heating plugs (in the case of
diesels), or general engine wear which sounds worst when the engine is cold.
Service History
Ask to see the service book which details all the service work carried out on the car. A full and
complete service history(if legitimate) is a great indicator that the car has been pampered. Be sure to
ask for information on when the timing belt(if fitted) was last replaced. These are typically changed
every 60,000miles. Failure of the timing belt normally spells the end for the engine - so be sure to
check this out.
Engine Oil Check
Hold the mayo please!
Have a tissue handy and pull the engine oil dipstick out to check the oil condition. See pictures at the
bottom of the previous page for typical locations.
The oil should be somewhere between honey-colored (new) and black (old oil). New oil turns black
pretty quickly(especially diesel engines), so unless the oil change happened a few hundred miles
before, the oil will most likely be dark brown or black. Check the dipstick carefully for a creamy white/
beige/brown substance. It can look a lot like regular mayonnaise. This "mayonnaise" is the result of
water from the cooling system mixing with the engine oil. It can come from a damaged cylinder head
gasket, damaged cylinder head, or damage to the engine block.
If you find any creamy brown substance in the oil system, just walk away. Cylinder head/gasket
damage requires a major strip-down of the engine to diagnose and repair the problem. Even if you can
finance an engine rebuild, engines with these faults are often never the same once rebuilt.
Engine Water Check
Making sure the engine is cold, slowly open the cap of the engine cooling water cap. The coolant
should be between the max and min levels indicated on the bottle and be a clear, green, red, or rusty
brown color. Dip your finger inside and confirm that there is no black oil floating around inside. Rub
your finger carefully against the side of the bottle to check whether there is oil clinging to the side.
Look at the cap also for signs of oil. Oil here could mean a damaged cylinder head gasket, damaged
cylinder head, or damage to the engine block. On some cars with automatic transmission, it could also
be transmission oil entering the water system at the transmission inter-cooler.
23
Always err on the side of caution. If you find any oil in the cooling system, just walk away.
Engine Temperature - Keep it cool!
Start the engine & let the engine warm up - this will take at least 10 minutes if the car is taken for a
drive or longer if sitting stationary and the weather is cold. Take a look at the coolant temperature
gauge. The pointer needle should climb slowly and begin to rest around the midpoint of the
temperature gauge. Open the bonnet and check the top radiator pipe(arrowed) as shown.
A hard radiator pipe indicates an over-pressurized water system. This is normally due to a failed
cylinder head gasket or cracked cylinder head or block. It is terminal, so if you find this it's time to walk
away.
Engine Temperature
Watch when you are driving to make sure that the temperature gauge stays pretty stationary. It may
rise slowly if you climb a long steep hill, but it shouldn’t move more than 5% on either side of the
center of the gauge. A gauge which moves to the high temperature or low temperature a lot during
normal driving could mean that the thermostat is faulty or that it was removed to disguise an
overheating problem. A partially blocked radiator, faulty radiator fan, or faulty fan sensor may be
causing the problem. The cylinder head gasket, cylinder head, or engine block may also be damaged.
Blow By - It's a blow out!
Another item you need to check is the engine blow by. With the engine running, carefully loosen the oil
cap. Slowly loosen your grip on the cap so it's resting on top of the oil filler hole. Check the force of the
gas coming out. The cap may bounce around a little, which is normal, but should not be blown off the
oil filler hole by the force of the gases coming out. Excessive "blow by" would indicate that the engine
is excessively worn.
Engine Summary
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
Engine Oil appears as
creamy/brown paste on
dipstick and oil cap
Engine oil contaminated with
water. Head gasket failure or
Cylinder head / Engine block
cracked.
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Oil has entered the water
system
Head gasket failure or Cylinder
head / Engine block cracked.
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Auto Transmission Cooler Fault
5
No
Yes
Yes
24
Erratic temperature gauge
Engine Blow By
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
Thermostat faulty
6
Yes
Yes
Yes
Thermostat Removed
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
head / Engine block cracked..
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Radiator Blocked
6
Yes
Yes
Yes
Radiator Fan / Sensor Fault
6
Yes
Yes
Yes
Excessive amounts of gas
coming from Oil Cap with
engine running.
7
Yes
Yes
Yes
25
Engine Smoke
Smoke Signals
There are five types of smoke which will come from the tail pipe, from the engine burning fuel:
•Normal Grey
•Normal Frosty
•White
•Blue
•Black
Normal exhaust smoke will be a light gray color. On a cold day this smoke may appear a lot, but this a
normal result of hot gases from the combustion chamber of the engine coming into contact with the
colder ambient air, just like our breath when we breathe on a frosty morning.
However, smoke other than Grey / Frosty type smoke could spell trouble. See the table below:
Engine Smoke Table
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
Normal Grey
Normal Combustion Gases
0
N/A
N/A
N/A
Normal Frosty Grey
(appears as large plumes of
gray smoke)
Normal Combustion Gases on
a cold day
0
N/A
N/A
N/A
White Smoke (this is much
denser than typical normal
smoke or frosty Grey)
Water and the fuel mixture is
being burned by the engine.
head / Engine block cracked.
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Blue Smoke During first
Minute of Start-up From Cold
Oil and the normal fuel mixture
is being burned by the engine.
Valve stem oil seals.
6
No
Yes
Yes
Blue Smoke Continuously
Oil and the normal fuel mixture
is being burned by the engine.
Valve stem oil seals, piston /
piston rings / engine bore wear/
turbo charger seal failure.
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
from cold
0
N/A
N/A
N/A
Black Smoke Petrol Engines
(Light Amounts)
26
Cause
Black Smoke Petrol Engines
(Heavy Amounts)
Over rich fuel / air mixture.
Dirty/Blocked Air filter. Faulty
Lambda sensor/air sensor
Black Smoke Diesel Engines
(Black but Not Dense)
Black Smoke Diesel Engines
(Black and Dense)
Diesel injectors faulty/dirty.
Diesel Injection Pump
incorrectly timed / faulty.
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
4
No
Yes
Yes
0
N/A
N/A
N/A
6
No
Yes
Yes
Engine Test
Eyes and Ears Wide Open Please! It's the Engine Test
Get the owner to start the car and rev it a little, while you stand back towards the middle of the car.
You will be listening for rattling noises from the engine and at the same time looking at the tail pipe to
see the exhaust smoke. I like to use the owner to do this job. If the car is fine, it sets them at ease.
More importantly though, it lets you hear unpleasant engine noises more clearly than you would sitting
in the driver's seat.
Start Your Engines
We are looking for a quick straightforward start here. When the key is turned, the engine should turn
over and fire into life within four seconds. Any longer than this and we should be concerned Try
starting it again – did it take longer than four seconds? If so then it could be a weak battery, starter,
motor, or a more serious engine issue. If only the battery is weak, the car will start normally the
second, third, and subsequent times if enough time is given in between to recharge the battery (10
minutes should be enough). When the engine starts, listen for any excessive rattles or clanking. A little
rattling noise is acceptable during the first 5-10 seconds, but this should disappear once the oil has
circulated properly around the top of the engine. Rev the engine a little, up to 2500rpm is enough.
Check the Engine Smoke Table to see if the engine is smoking normally. Go to the hood again and
look and listen for any vibrations or misfires. The engine should idle and rev smoothly without
hesitation – watch for excessive movement in the engine. More than an inch or so and it may need the
engine or transmission mounts replaced.
Engine Summary
27
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
3
No
No
No
Weak Starter Motor
5
No
Yes
Yes
Spark Plugs need
replaced(petrol engines)
3
No
No
Yes
Glow plugs need
replaced(diesel engines)
4
No
No
Yes
Fuel and or ignition related fault
7
Yes
Yes
Yes
Worn/damaged piston rings or
valves
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Engine lightly Rattles and
ticks in first 5 -10 seconds
slight engine wear / normal
operation
3
No
No
Yes
Engine continuously rattles
ticks or knocks
Worn; camshaft / rockers /
tappets / crankshaft bearings
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Engine Misfires
Dirty Fuel
5
Yes
Yes
Yes
Spark Plugs need
replaced(petrol engines)
4
Yes
Yes
Yes
HT Ignition leads /rotor arm/
distributor cap (old system)
4
Yes
Yes
Yes
Engine Sensor//Wiring/ECU
(new system)
7
Yes
Yes
Yes
Replace engine or transmission
mounting
5
No
Yes
Yes
Engine Takes greater than 4
seconds to turn over and
start
Engine Moves more than 1
Inch during revving
Weak battery
28
Chapter 7: Transmission
Automatic Transmission
After the engine, the transmission is the next most important part of the car & needs to be checked
thoroughly. With your foot on the brake pedal, start the engine and move the transmission lever from
Park to Neutral, then to Drive. It should take you about 0.5 seconds to 1 second maximum to move the
lever from neutral into drive until you feel a gentle nudge. Try the same test from Neutral to Reverse –
it also should not take more than 1 second before the car begins to move. A longer delay and/or a
clunking noise would indicate a transmission fault. Automatic transmissions are complicated, and
generally any repairs are very expensive. During the test drive we are looking out for sudden sharp
jolts while changing gear. Stop the car at the side of the road and check that all the gears are
changing properly from standstill, counting them as you go. Stop again and repeat the test; you may
begin to notice a particular gear change is jerky. Also check that there is no jerkiness changing down
the gears while slowing down.
Drive at a steady 40mph for a while, then accelerate hard. The transmission should kick down into a
lower gear, possibly second. This should happen fairly smoothly without any serious knocking or
banging.
Check the oil in the automatic transmission by removing the dipstick under the hood. Clean
transmission oil is red, while old oil will turn black. Smell the oil, and if it smells burned then the
transmission oil needs to be changed and indicates a fault.
Automatic Transmission Summary
Cause
Transmission Takes more
than 1 seconds to engage
Worn transmission
Jerking while changing gear
Worn transmission
Burnt Smelling Transmission
Oil
Worn transmission
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
29
Manual Transmission and Clutch
While stationary, with the engine running and gearbox in Neutral, depress the clutch pedal release and
repeat two or three times. Listen for any extra whirring or whining noises. This would indicate a worn
clutch release bearing. With the clutch depressed, select 1st gear. It should be easy to select without
any drag or effort required. If 1st gear is hard to select, the clutch may need to be replaced.
While in 1st gear and with the clutch depressed, release the pedal slowly and drive off. The clutch
pedal should have a smooth steady feel to it and the car should move smoothly. Any shaking or
vibrations indicate that the clutch or pressure plate may need to be replaced. Change into 2nd gear and
listen for any additional noises. Repeat throughout all gears. A damaged manual transmission can
have a difficult-to-move gear shifter/lever or a whining noise while driving.
Some manufacturers have, in the last 10 years or so, introduced manual gearboxes which use a
"floating flywheel" system. When the floating flywheel is beginning to fail, a rattle can be heard when
the engine is idling in Neutral. As the flywheel progressively worsens, a vibration is felt while
accelerating. The flywheel will eventually need to be replaced. This repair is expensive and laborintensive, so do your homework on the costs and demand a large discount from the seller if you still
want to purchase.
To confirm that the clutch is not slipping, find a gradient or a level section of the road and while driving
at about 40mph in 4th gear, accelerate hard. The engine revs should rise slowly and in proportion to
your speed. Keep an eye on the RPM level to make sure the engine is not revving high (i.e., above
4500RPM). If the engine revs quickly while driving without a rapid change in speed, the clutch is
slipping and will need to be replaced.
Check for a clunking noise when the accelerator pedal is pressed and released several times. This
could mean that the transmission and or prop shaft/differential is worn. There is not normally a dipstick
to check the transmission oil level in a manual transmission.
Manual Transmission and Clutch Summary
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
Whirring, whining or rattling
noises while depressing
clutch pedal
Worn clutch release bearing /
floating flywheel
7
Yes
Yes
Yes
Difficulty selecting gears
Worn transmission / worn clutch
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Whining noise while driving
Worn transmission
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Whining noise while driving
Damaged wheel bearing
5
No
Yes
Yes
30
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
7
Yes
Yes
Yes
Vibrations felt from front of
car while accelerating
Worn floating flywheel
Clutch Slipping
Worn clutch plate / pressure
plate
8
Yes
Yes
Yes
Loud clunking while pressing
quickly on and off the gas
Worn transmission / prop shaft /
differential mounting bushes
6
Yes
Yes
Yes
Constant Velocity (CV) Joints on Front Wheel Drive and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
The outer CV joints are fixed to the end of the drive shafts and are located just behind the front
wheels. When they fail a clicking noise is heard from the front. To test them, drive to a parking lot or
open space. Turn the steering wheel fully to the right and accelerate moderately. Do the same for the
left. A clicking noise will be
heard which will disappear
when you straighten the
steering wheel up again.
Always Appear Non Committal
They are a regular
maintenance item and fail
when the rubber boot
surrounding them splits and
the joint, having lost the necessary lubricating grease, begins to click.
Constant Velocity (CV) Joints Summary
Clicking noise when turning
full to left/right
Cause
CV joint(s) need to be replaced
Serious
0-10
6
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
No
No
Yes
31
Chapter 8: Additional Test Drive Checks
The following are a few other things you'll need to check during the test drive.
Drive over a roughly surfaced road. When the car travels over the bumps in the road, any worn
suspension or steering joints will be felt or heard. Listen for any banging or knocking while driving over
a bumpy surface. Lighter, quieter clunking could indicate worn anti-roll bar bushes. On larger bumps in
the road or speed bumps the car should ride evenly. While traveling over a speed bump, does the car
rock like a boat from side to side? If so, the shock absorbers need to be replaced.
A car with substantial accident damage (or serious suspension wear) will not ride well over bumps in
the road. It's common for a car with chassis or suspension damage to wander off course when
traveling over a bumpy surface.
Test Drive Summary
Clunking or banging noise
while driving over rough
surfaces
Cause
Serious
0-10
Deal Breaker
A
B
C
6
No
Yes
Yes
3
No
No
Yes
7
Yes
Yes
Yes
7
Yes
Yes
Yes
10
Yes
Yes
Yes
Worn Suspension Joints
Worn Anti Roll Bar Bushes
While traveling over speed
bumps the car rocks from
side to side
Worn Shock Absorbers
Car wanders when traveling
over a bump
Suspension Worn
Substantial Accident Damage
32
Chapter 9: Negotiating
Assuming you've got this far and the car has passed our inspection, it's time to consider making an
offer.
Ready steady, go....no, hang on a minute!
It may seem obvious, but an unwritten protocol when buying a car is: “Only make an offer if you can
stand by it.”
If you are still unsure or need to ask advice or permission from your wife/husband/mom/dad/bank
manager, do not begin negotiating. It will only inflame the seller if, after making an offer that was
accepted, you then qualify your offer based on the response of someone else. Be clear from the start
if you need to talk about it with someone else, and remember to do it before you make an offer.
Many
people are
Keeping the negotiating process friendly is key to achieving a good deal
uncomfortable negotiating and prefer to leave it to someone else. In reality though, negotiating is a
simple and necessary skill that can be learned just like any other. The guiding principles below will
help you negotiate correctly and ultimately reap the rewards. Follow these principles closely to ensure
your smooth transaction.
If you are really happy with the car after viewing and test driving, make sure you keep this to yourself.
Appearing happy & excited will only cost you money. The seller will see your excitement & stay rigid
on the price. Being calm and relaxed will keep the seller guessing if you are interested in buying.
Be Friendly but Firm
Before we start to negotiate buying a car, we need to assess the landscape, so to speak:
Does the vendor look desperate to sell?
Is the car realistically priced?
Does it have obvious faults? (When I say "obvious," I mean faults that both you and the seller agree
are faults. One man's scrape is another man's wear and tear.)
Has the car been on the market for a while?
These are four questions you need to ask and answer yourself, before you make an offer and draw a
line in the sand.
If the seller seems fairly eager to get the car sold quickly, you can immediately consider a low opening
offer.
33
Let's assume, for example, that you have checked over a car. It has a couple of scrapes, a scuff mark
on the bumper, and two tires are fairly badly worn - all things which we know can be common faults in
a used car.
I like to begin negotiating with an opener like these:
“Well, what's the least you would accept for the car?” or
“Have you decided on a final price that you would take for it?”
All may not be as it seems....
After you have listened to the seller's minimum price, it's time to discover if it really is his minimum
price! Often people will quote an initial figure which gives them some room for maneuvering. For
example:
The seller has a car advertised at $6250 and when you ask him, he says he'll accept $6000 for the
car. He may well be thinking, “Well, if I ask for $6000 maybe I'll get $5750 or $5500.”
It's now up to you to figure out if his final price really is his final price. Begin by either mentioning the
(agreed) faults or by simply walking up to the worn tires and looking them over – but don’t say
anything. The seller knows the faults perfectly well and does not need reminding. Do the same for the
scratches and remaining faults. Basically what you are doing here is reminding the seller that the car
is not perfect and he would do well to consider reducing the price, given the flaws and your awareness
of them.
If all is going well until now, stand back from the car and mention that it does have a few faults. If the
seller's real final price is lower than his stated price, his next sentence is generally something like the
following:
“Well, what would you offer?”
“What do you think it's worth?”
Now with the ball in your court, you have a few options:
You can offer him a few hundred less than he's asking to take into account the faults.
You can offer him a lot less, $1000 or so, hoping he may be overestimating the faults.
You simply stay quiet, leaving the seller on edge thinking, “Is this person going to buy or not...”
Normally I like to employ the third option. This silence can bring the seller to their senses. He's
thinking, “Do I want to lose this sale? What if this person walks away?”
Take a Deep Breath
If you've reached this stage of the process with all going smoothly, it's time to lay your cards on the
table. I often like to cloak my offer in the following way:
“I like the car, but it is a little out of my budget. I was trying to stay around $5000.”
34
Framing the sentence like this has two advantages: firstly, you are not going to upset the seller if he
really will only take $6000. After all, everyone has a budget to work within. Secondly, if the seller is
really desperate to sell, your “offer” of $5000 may be a light at the end of a tunnel for him.
The reaction of the seller here will determine your next move. A reply of “I’m sorry but this is my final
price” means you are not going to go far here. Maybe an offer of $5800 or $5900 will clinch it.
A reply of something like “Hmm, $5000 - it's a lot less than I'd hoped for....” will give you some
encouragement. My favorite reply is “Well I could maybe stretch it to $5100”, followed by another
silence.
At this stage with the deal coming to stalemate, a common and effective technique is to “split the
difference” or “meet in the middle.”
Let's say you are offering $5100 and the seller will not budge from $5500. Make a suggestion that you
both meet halfway. You offer him $5300, meaning you go up $200 and he drops $200. This has a good
psychological effect, as you both feel that you have moved a similar amount. In my experience it
closes the deal in a friendly manner, with both sides feeling that they have a fair deal – everyone
leaves happy!
It's important to note that this sequence will happen only if the atmosphere is right. I mentioned at the
beginning of the blueprint that your attitude from the start is important. People like to help people they
like - make sure you're one of them!
35
Chapter 10: The 8 "Walk Away" Rules
If you find any of the following faults in the car, it's simple and easy – just politely thank the seller and
walk away from the car. You will be entering into a marriage from hell, so use your common sense and
leave the scene, fast.
The 8 Walk Away Rules
# 1 CREAMY SUBSTANCE IN ENGINE OIL
# 2 TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING HIGH OR LOW(AFTER
ENGINE HAS WARMED)
# 3 CONTINUOUS WHITE OR BLUE EXHAUST SMOKE
# 4 ENGINE MISFIRES / KNOCKS OR RATTLES CONTINUOUSLY
# 5 DELAYS OR CLUNKING IN TRANSMISSION
# 6 VEHICLE HISTORY REPORT SHOWS AN ACCIDENT
# 7 VEHICLE WANDERS WHILE DRIVING OVER HUMPS
# 8 RADIATOR PIPE HARD WHEN ENGINE HAS WARMED
36
Conclusion
Having gleaned every scrap of useful and hard-earned information from my aging, road-weary
noggin, you are now in a position to go forth and put it to good use!
All of the advice offered in this Blueprint is the product of my experience in the auto trade for over 20
years. The decision whether to buy a particular car is always somewhat subjective, and therefore
subject to many opinions and opinators. However as you've learned, there are some universal
guidelines to follow and as the value of the car increases from several hundred dollars to thousands
and tens of thousands of dollars, a minor fault can become a very costly major fault.
Do not walk yourself into a corner by insisting "this one's for me," and ignoring thousands upon
thousands of other cars for sale. Not only do you run the risk of buying a wreck, but you also weaken
your bargaining hand. If it's as clear as day to the seller that you really want the car, he will go into
financial lockdown and you'll find yourself paying just too much for the car.
I hope you have found this Blueprint useful, and it's my sincere wish to protect you from all of the
nasty, painful, and sometimes shameful tricks that the average seller can inflict on the mechanicallychallenged car buyer. I wish you many years of happy motoring with your future purchase, and I hope
you can use these techniques to find a car you really love – at a price you can love too!
All the best for now,
Daniel B. Mc Grath
p.s. - don't forget to recommend the Auto Buyer Secrets Blueprint to your friends & family, they can
claim their FREE copy of by visiting www.autobuyersecrets.com
You never know when they may need it!
! !
GET IT HERE!
37

Auto Buyer Secrets Blueprint Daniel B.McGrath

Transcription

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