Pages 10 et 47

Transcription

Pages 10 et 47

2
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Volume 2
US$6
The
hOT 100
The Guide: TipS on where To eaT,
Sleep, drink and explore
TASTiNG A NATiON
The kingdom’s
essential flavours
luXe liST
a dream escape on a private
island and sumptuous spas
at your fingertips
ON The rOAd
2 007 030 000046
Unearthing
forgotten
temples
FROM THE EDITOR
T
cart
trundles down a red dirt
road, its driver sporting
a wide-brimmed straw
hat and an equally broad
smile. Meanwhile, a group
of shirtless children throw themselves
into the glistening waters of a rice
paddy while their parents stoop to
gather the daily crop. Contrary to
popular belief, the time machine
has already been invented: it is
called Cambodia.
After travelling to a simpler time,
return to the present and recline in a
soft leather armchair, enjoy an expertly
shaken cosmopolitan and ponder
tournedos rossini or steak au poivre for
your main course.
For many, it is this combination of
disparate worlds that fills a trip to
Cambodia with such wonder. It is a
place that can shake visitors to the core
one moment, before making the surliest
of hearts flutter the next. Once you have
visited this country, it never lets you go.
Challenge yourself not to fall in
love with Cambodia. With more than
20 years of cumulative living in the
country, it is a test that our editorial
team have failed quite spectacularly.
Luckily, that means we are well placed
to provide our readers with the inside
track on the ‘Kingdom of Wonder’.
It is difficult not to be slightly
envious of those beginning their
Cambodian journey. That first sighting
of the peerless Angkor Wat; the initial
adrenaline rush of crossing a Phnom
Penh street teeming with scooters; the
flurry of excitement as an unspoiled
island first appears on the horizon:
these are all moments that remind us
we are alive. Let them burn themselves
into your mind’s eye.
Allow us to guide you through your
stay in this magical country. We are
confident it will not be your last.
Feel free to send your comments to:
[email protected]
6 Discover 2013 The Essence of Cambodia
Photo: Sam Jam
he buffalo-drawn
The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2013 7
CONTENTS
Discover
The Essence of Cambodia
Editor In Chief
Tassilo Brinzer
Editors
Charlie Lancaster
Dene Mullen
Sacha Passi
Photographer
Sam Jam
Contributors
Nicolas Axelrod
William Bagley
Victor Blanco
Omar Havana
Jeremy Holden
Michael Klinkhamer
Mary Kozlovski
Mai Lynn Nguyen
Daniel Otis
Michelle Vachon
Art Director
Joe Slater
Junior Art Director
Lim Mengkong
Back to school for a quick geography
lesson
22 A world of peace
A day in the life of Wat Bo’s monks in
Siem Reap
26 Portraits of a nation
Two photographers capture a crosssection of Cambodian faces
34 Need to know
Five names every visitor to Cambodia
should familiarise themselves with
38 He built this city
Vann Molyvann defined a capital with his
iconic architecture
40 blast from the past
The Cambodian Space Project are
rejuvenating Khmer rock’n’roll
44 the silver screen
Exploring the kingdom’s kooky cinematic
history
46 monkey business
Sovanna Phum embraces tradition with its
drum, dance and shadow puppet shows
Published by
Southeastern Globe
Communications Ltd.
#6A Street 294, 12301
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Tel: +855 (0)23 223 747
Printed by
Digital Advertising
48 bright young things
The rising stars of the kingdom’s
kitchens show off their culinary prowess
54 Finding flavour
Cambodia’s most celebrated chef, Luu
Meng, recommends his four favourite
Khmer ingredients
56 the world on your fingertips
From Brazilian to North Korean cuisine,
you can find it all in Cambodia
58 A spot of d.i.Y
Sweat it out in the kitchen with a Khmer
cooking course
Photo: Omar Havanna
20 mind the map
The rich and famous are being seduced by
Cambodia’s charms
Sales & Marketing
Chea Eak Muy
Ronnie Eide
Paul D. Weinert
Daisy Walsh
+855 (0)93 999 000
discover-cambodia.com
About CAmbodiA
The kingdom’s highlights caught on
camera
Online Director
Poeudore Sophan
Information and travel details are correct at the time of going to
press and may change. All content is owned by the publisher and
may not be reproduced without prior permission.
Page 22: a look behind the doors of a pagoda in Siem Reap
36 Star gazing
Distribution
Chea Sam Oeun
Reserve your prime advertising spot
for the next issue now!
22
14 the big picture
Accounting
Ngorn Bunchon
Chry Soklay
Photographer Sam Jam shot our cover image
in the waters of Song Saa Private Island. For
more information on the exclusive retreat
see page 102.
If you like the printed magazine, you
will love the digital edition – available
to download to your PC, iPad or other
eReader devices for free:
discover–cambodia.com
CONTENTS
62
110
Page 62-80: top tips on sleeping, eating and indulging during your stay in the kingdom
Page 110: explore the world of Cambodia’s most skilled artisans
The guIDe
exPerIence
62 capital cool
84 A shopper’s paradise
68 rolling in the reap
There is more to temple town than
just Angkor gazing
72 Best get wet
Find out how to make the most
of the coast
76 Off the grid
Leave the tourist trail behind by visiting
the kingdom’s best-kept secrets
78 gay getaway
The country’s most open-minded
establishments
80 Weird and wonderful
Something a little bit different
Hit the capital’s top shops
86 Pampering pleasure
Seek solace in the country’s best spas
88 The second city
Discover bamboo trains and bat caves
in Battambang
92 Day tripper
Rural life and ancient temples just a
stone’s throw from Phnom Penh
94 Into the wild
102 Treading lightly
112 On the wild side
Song Saa Private Island is so much more
than a luxury retreat
Meet Cambodia’s rare and wonderful
fauna and flora
104 Lost in time
116 Pretty as a picture
Drive along an ancient Angkorian road
to discover temples less travelled
Shining a light on the
kingdom’s best artists and their artwork
108 return to splendour
122 reader’s digest
Giving Angkor Wat a facelift
Recommended books that give more
depth to a visit to Cambodia
110 Artisans of Angkor
124 On the agenda
From fine silks to sparkling silver: take a
little piece of Cambodia’s heritage home
Places to be and things to see in 2013
126 The list
Immerse yourself in local life along the
Mekong River
98 Kings of the coast
Touring Cambodia’s 3K’s: Koh Kong,
Kampot and Kep
All the contact details you need to make
the most of Discover
Photos: Sam Jam
The very best spots in Phnom Penh,
Cambodia’s emerging capital
Learn
128 a last look
One of Cambodia’s most picturesque
rooms with a view
SPECIAL OFFER!
Please contact Tel: 023 214 359 -61 ext 102-106 or your preferred travel agent
thaiairways.com
facebook.com/ThaiAirways
PhotograPher SaM JaM caPtureS the intoxicating Mix of old and new that lieS
at the heart of any viSit to caMbodia. thiS Shot of PhnoM Penh iS the Perfect
starting point for your journey through a Magical kingdoM
Photography by Sam Jam
The intricate carvings found at
Angkor Wat tell stories of mythical
serpents and celestial beings. Any
visit to Cambodia is not complete
without taking the time to explore the
incredible Angkor temple complex.
Photography by
Mak Remissa, Heng Sinith,
Todd Brown, Sam Jam, Madeinmars
No matter where your journey of
discovery takes you in Cambodia,
the sights and sounds of the
country never cease to captivate.
From glistening rice paddies to
expansive cityscapes, the kingdom
provides a true feast for the eyes.
ABOUT CAMBODIA
Experience the simple
pleasures of daily life
in the provinces and
catch a glimpse of the
rare Irrawaddy dolphin
– page 94
Discover how
conservationists are
working to preserve the
jewel in the kingdom’s
tourism crown as they
reverse the ravages of
time at Angkor Wat –
page 108
Dangkrek
Mountains
Oddar Meanchey
Prasat Preah Vihear
Banteay Chhmar
Ratanakiri
Preah Vihear
Temples of Angkor
Yeak Lom Lake
Koh Ker
Banteay Meanchey
Stung Treng
The
kingdom
uncovered
Siem Reap
Battambang
Illustrations by Victor Blanco
Tonle Sap
Lake
Pailin
Kampong Thom
S
nle
To
Mondulkiri
R
ap
Pursat
Bou Sraa Waterfall
Kratie
Me
ko
ng
R
r
ive
r
ive
Kampong
Chhnang
Kampong Cham
Koh Kong
Phnom
Penh
Cardamom
Mountains
Jump on board the
bamboo train for a
unique way to explore
the heart of Cambodia’s
rice bowl – page 88
Head off the beaten
track and discover the
kingdom’s forgotten
temple ruins – page 104
Prey Veng
Kampong Speu
Bamboo Bridge
Kandal
Svay
Rieng
Takeo
Nature, wildlife and
traditional culture are
at your fingertips just
outside the country’s
capital – page 92
Capital city
Elephant Valley Project
Gibbon spotting
Irrawaddy dolphin spotting
Bokor Hill Station
Mountain
This southwest pocket
offers lazy getaways,
where delighting in
freshest seafood is a
must – page 98
Sihanoukville
Provincial capital
Kampot
Kep
The Sovanna Phum
stage comes alive for a
night of entertainment
and an amazing show of
local artistry – page 38
Temple
Waterfall
W
elcome to a country like no other. Great
empires have come and gone, leaving
behind architectural marvels steeped in
history; the scars of the horrific Khmer
Rouge period are slowly healing, allowing this
magnificent land to once again showcase its charms to
an inquisitive world.
Home to Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake, an
abundance of untouched islands and rugged off-thebeaten-track landscapes, the Kingdom of Cambodia is
rich in natural wonders waiting to be explored.
Water lies at the heart of the country, both
geographically and metaphorically. The huge Tonle
Sap Lake and the mighty Mekong River provide the
majority of the country’s 15 million inhabitants with
their daily source of food and livelihood.
Established as a French colony in 1884, the European
nation’s influence remains evident across the kingdom.
French colonial architecture brings an old-world
charm to Cambodia’s cityscapes, while the legacy of
French cuisine permeates everyday eating habits for
countless Cambodians. Many of the country’s elders
can comfortably slip back into fluent Français, even
if English has now become Cambodia’s second most
widely used language.
Indeed, for all of its natural and architectural
wonders, it is Cambodia’s Khmer people who truly
embody the essence and charm of the country. The
kingdom as we know it is testament to their resilience
and willingness to open their home and their hearts
to visitors. This is a land of religious legends and
harrowing real-life tales, but as Cambodia takes its
rightful place among the planet’s most sought-after
destinations, now is the time to write your own story.
FAITH
Saffron spirit
a day iN THE lifE Of BuddHiST mONkS aT SiEm REap’S WaT BO paGOda
Photography by Omar Havana
T
he rhythm of the drum
announces a new day,
awakening the sleeping
monks well before the sun
stirs. Once showered, the
orange-robed young men
grab their silver bowls and set off
through the streets of Siem Reap. For
up to two hours they walk the city
barefoot, offering prayers and chants
in return for food to alleviate the early
morning pangs of hunger. For a belief
system based on the truth of suffering,
it is fitting that the heels of their cracked
feet carry the burden of the task. Upon
return to their pagoda in central Siem
Reap, a hushed joy washes over the
monks as they soothe their feet in cool
water. Finally, breakfast is served.
Places of retreat, relaxation and
reflection, pagodas are a cornerstone
of Buddhism. They offer monks an
opportunity to immerse themselves
in the teachings of Buddha, who
more than 2,500 years ago advocated
that one cannot embark on the path
to enlightenment with any worldly
possessions, including excess food,
money, weapons, jewellery, gold,
hair or even eyebrows. Central to
the philosophy are the notions
of rebirth and karma. In popular
belief, karma is a system of spiritual
accounting that balances merit and
buddhism in a nutshell
Siddhartha Gautama, who became the Buddha
after achieving enlightenment, was born in
Nepal around 563 BC. Born a prince, he found
that his wealth did not bring happiness, so
he set off on an exploration of the different
teachings of the world. Eventually, he
found what he called the ‘middle path’ and
enlightenment, which he spent his life teaching
until he died at the age of 80. The Buddha is not
a deity or god, but a man who taught a way of
life from his experience. We are all Buddha, if
we choose to be.
demerit, good deeds and bad. It is
often a reason why sons enter the
sangha – a community of ordained
Buddhist monks and nuns – for short
periods after a parent dies, in order
to transfer merit at the crucial time
of their parent’s rebirth. While karma
might determine rebirth, it is not
simply fate. Everyone can work on
improving his or her ‘karmic balance’.
The ease with which young men are
free to enter and leave the sangha
reveals the transient nature of life at
pagodas, which have always provided
learning opportunities outside the
realm of Buddhism. Following an
age-old practice, pagodas offer food,
shelter and schooling to poorer
members of society. As such, many
become monks to gain an education.
Rural youths who become monks
can move to larger towns and find
opportunities to learn English and
computer skills, which are essential to
finding employment. For many, once
they have their qualifications, they
leave the sangha.
For around 130 monks living
at Wat Bo, the rigorous daily teaching
is disrupted only for an hour in
the morning. This 60-minute reprieve
is dedicated to the last meal of
g
Spiritual realm: a Buddhist gives alms to passing monks in an act of religious virtue
the day which, according to the
five main precepts of the Buddhist
monastic asceticism, must be
consumed before midday.
Having eaten, the monks seek shelter
from the sun in the shade of banyan
trees to discuss the morning’s teachings.
A drum sounds out across the wat,
halting the low hum of chatter and
signalling time for prayer.
One by one, the monks of Wat Bo
silently take their positions on the
Shining shrine: Wat Bo is one of Siem Reap’s oldest pagodas and its mural wall paintings are said to date back to the 19th century
floor of the temple on the east side of
the monastery, with their feet facing
away from the large golden Buddha
statue that dominates the interior of
the temple. Drowning out the clicks
of tourist cameras, the young men
chant in unison alongside a group of
elder women dressed in white robes.
As contact with women is forbidden,
these women – more often than not
widows – pray in a side section of
the temple. The nuns’ role in the
monastery is fundamental to the
everyday working of the wat.
With heads and eyebrows shaved, they
generally observe the same precepts of
Buddhism as the monks and prepare
the altars, as well as undertaking
other basic tasks to ensure the smooth
running of the pagoda.
As night begins to fall on Siem Reap,
the sky seemingly honours the devotion
of the young men clad in orange robes
with a colourful sunset of red hues.
VISITIng A PAgODA
Throughout the kingdom, life centres on local
temples or shrines, and while foreign visitors are
always welcome, there are a few rules that should
be observed:
f Leave your shoes outside the main worship area
f Turn off mobile phones, remove headphones
f Talk quietly and avoid inappropriate conversation
f Dress conservatively, cover shoulders and avoid
wearing shorts and hats
f To indicate to something, use your right hand
with the palm facing upwards
f When sitting never point your feet at a person or
an image of Buddha
f If you are sitting in a worship area when monks
or nuns enter, stand up; wait until they have
finished their prostrations before sitting again
f Do not eat, snack or smoke in front of monks
Remember, the best time to visit a temple is just
after sunrise, when the temperature is still cool and
monks are returning from their alms procession.
PEOPLE
Faces of
a nation
A
to Cambodia for their fondest
memories of the country and most will answer in just
two words: its people. Blessed with a natural warmth
and spiritual lightness, remembering the faces of your
gracious hosts will arouse smiles long after you return
home. Tasked with capturing the essence of Cambodia’s
greatest resource, Sam Jam took colour portraits of
Khmer womanhood and Michael Klinkhamer went on a
black and white journey to the heart of provincial life.
sk any visitor
PEOPLE
MEET THE LADIES: (previous page) Siengdy was a famous singer during Cambodia’s cultural golden age of the 1960s;
(this page, left) Thida Chea is the smiling face that greets diners at El Mundo restaurant; (this page, right) Kouy Chan
Danich is Cambodia’s most successful contemporary fashion model.
PEOPLE
Cambodia’s cultural heritage remains firmly rooted in Buddhist tradition, with the Khmer ethnic
group accounting for approximately 90% of the population.
The largest ethnic minority groups are the Vietnamese and Chinese populations, with Muslim
(Cham) and Laotian, among others, making up the rest to create a unique fusion of Asian traits
and a rich cultural tapestry.
The youthful faces of the kingdom’s next generation dominate the demographic landscape.
Home to the youngest population in Southeast Asia, the average age of Cambodia’s nearly
15 million people is just 23, and over 65% of the population is aged under 30.
PEOPLE
Culture and custom continue to drive daily life in the kingdom, even as modernity barges its
way into society. Young men are encouraged to embrace monkhood for at least one week
between the time they finish school and enter adult life to collect good karma merits that
serve to help them reach nirvana.
A deeply spiritual country, Cambodia is also embracing contemporary mores in its
experimentation with pop cultures from around the world. As evidenced in fashion and
hairstyles across the kingdom, the Korean wave has arrived in Cambodia, influencing buying
habits and musical tastes across the country.
PEOPLE
BOOK WORM
To get up to speed with Cambodia’s modern history pick up a copy of A History of Cambodia, written
by David P. Chandler, largely considered one of the country’s foremost Western scholars. Another
informative read is Joel Brinkley’s Cambodia’s Curse: The Modern History of a Troubled Land.
A lasting legacy
CHeAT SHeeT: A feW need-to-know nAMeS To SLiP
inTo ConverSATion WHiLe TrAveLLing THe KingDoM
King Suryavarman ii
played a major role in bringing the Royal Ballet
of Cambodia to the world, and to the people
of Cambodia. Characterised by its graceful,
elegant gestures and elaborate costumes, the
Royal Ballet of Cambodia is among the world’s
most evocative cultural expressions, and one
of the few Cambodian court dance traditions
remaining from antiquity.
Svay Ken
One of Asia’s longest-serving monarchs, King Father Norodom Sihanouk
abdicated the throne in 2004, giving the seat to his son and current
king, Norodom Sihamoni. At the forefront of Cambodian politics for half a
century, Sihanouk remained hugely popular up until his death in October
2012, when an estimated one million people lined the streets of Phnom
Penh to welcome his body home from China, where he died of heart failure.
No stranger to controversy, Sihanouk has survived numerous wars and has
been married six times, overthrown, sentenced to death and held prisoner
in his own palace. An avid film fan, Sihanouk bequeathed a large part of his
personal film archive to Australia’s Monash University in 2011, giving the
world one of its most significant archives of Cambodia’s modern history.
Photos: Xinhua, Tang Chhin Sothy/AFP, John Vink/Magnum Photos
King SihanouK
Suryavarman II was a man of extraordinary
ambition and vision, though he probably
had little idea that his mausoleum would
one day become the jewel in Cambodia’s
tourism crown. The man behind Angkor
Wat, Suryavarman II immortalised his
impressive, and often violent, reign in the
bas reliefs of the 12th century megastructure,
showing himself in a variety of guises both
as king and the incarnation of Vishnu. A
religious reformer, he shunned Buddhism
– which had briefly flourished under his
predecessors – in favour of Vaishnavism, a
blend of the mystical cults of supreme Hindu
deities Vishnu and Shiva. As a warlord, he
united the country after 50 years of unrest,
expanding his empire to include much of
what is now Thailand and parts of modern
day Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam.
Hun Sen
Born in 1952, Prime Minister Hun Sen is
the youngest of the world’s longest-ruling
leaders. A former Khmer Rouge cadre turned
liberator, the one-eyed politician has been
sitting at the helm of power since the mid1980s. Reportedly a keen chess player and
chain smoker, he is a cunning strategist and
has guided Cambodia from political turmoil
to relative stability.
PrinceSS BoPHa Devi
During the 1970s, Cambodia’s classical dance
culture came perilously close to disappearing.
Yet thanks to the extraordinary efforts of
Princess Bopha Devi – a prima ballerina –
Cambodian traditional dance was saved from
the clutches of death and revived during the
1980s and 1990s. Formerly a minister of culture
and fine arts, Bopha Devi, now in her late 60s,
Quite possibly Cambodia’s most prolific
painter, Svay Ken depicted everyday life
at an impressive speed. When he died
in December 2008, he left behind an
extensive portfolio of artwork that has been
categorised as ‘naive’ – a style that exudes
a charming simplicity. While his technique
was not especially innovative, his subject
matter was. Painting ordinary scenes in a
post-war period where the commercial art
market dictated depictions of Angkor Wat, he
showed a new generation of aspiring artists
that it pays to produce original artwork. Svay
Ken once said that he began painting so that
his children and grandchildren would not
forget the ordinary ways of life in Cambodia.
In the process he became an undisputable
leader of the modern Khmer period.
PEOPLE
Through The lens
As well as attracting stars, Cambodia has also been a star itself on numerous
occasions. Popular recent movies that show off the kingdom in all its glory are City
of Ghosts (2002), Same Same But Different (2009) and Wish You Were Here (2012).
Star attraction
Julien ‘SetH’ malland
Through larger-than-life artworks that have been described
as both elegant and funny within artistic circles, Malland
has used his artistic skills to add colour to lifeless spaces
worldwide, including the streets of Mumbai and Vietnam.
The French graffiti artist arrived in the kingdom’s capital
in 2012 to overhaul ten drab concrete walls using nothing
more than spray cans and a keen artistic eye, transforming
walls at Meta House, the French Cultural Centre and the French Embassy into
vibrant artworks that contained locally-inspired imagery, such as a young boy
wearing the traditional krama scarf.
The a-list are increasingly falling under cambodia’s spell
anGelina Jolie
on the travel itineraries of the
rich and famous. However,
awareness of the country’s
eclectic charms is on the rise
in celebrity circles. Years of
regeneration have increased
international confidence
and this is increasingly
mirrored by the names that
the kingdom has been able to
attract in recent years. Like
all visitors, those living in
the spotlight have touched
down on local soil eager
to experience Cambodia’s
exotic, yet subtle, culinary
flavours, seize opportunities
to help rebuild broken
Anthony BourdAin
The world-renowned chef, bestselling author and
Emmy award-winning television personality has
been a pioneer in showcasing different cuisines
and cultures from around the world to his fellow
Americans. His most recent trip to Cambodia
in 2011 was his second after he first visited in
2000 for the filming of his television show, A
Cook’s Tour. This time, the celebrity chef spent
his time eating, drinking and cooking his way
through Cambodia for his TV
series No Reservations. The
country’s natural landscape
made for a perfect backdrop
as the chef from New
York’s famed bistro, Les
Halles, showcased fresh
local ingredients and
learned traditional Khmer
culinary techniques while
travelling off Cambodia’s
beaten track.
communities, or simply
immerse themselves in the
emerging arts and cultural
scene. Whatever it is that
brings the world’s stars to
the kingdom, it is invariably
the beautiful nature of its
inhabitants that keeps them
coming back for more.
The Oscar-winning actress first visited Cambodia in 2000 for the filming of Lara
Croft: Tomb Raider and she returns to the country regularly to oversee the work
of a local foundation she established in 2003, named in honour of her adopted
Cambodian son, Maddox. Based in Battambang province,
the Maddox Jolie-Pitt Foundation is devoted to eradicating
extreme poverty and protecting natural resources and
wildlife in the country. Most recently, the Hollywood
heavyweight and UN Goodwill Ambassador returned to the
kingdom for a Louis Vuitton photo shoot in 2011.
The 43-year-old made her mark on Hollywood in the mid1990s when she skated on to cinema screens as Roller Girl,
in Boogie Nights. She continued her rise to fame during
the 2000s, and has since starred in films including Austin
Powers: The Spy Who Shagged Me and The Hangover. The
actress has been an active supporter of the Cambodian
Children’s Fund (CCF), based in Phnom Penh, since she
first visited the country in 2009. She is a member of the
CCF board and maintains support for the organisation from
abroad through fundraising galas in the United States. In
March 2012 she returned to the kingdom, where she spent
her time volunteering with the street children she helps
feed and educate through her charitable efforts.
GrAndmAster FlAsh
Originally known as Joseph Saddler, Grandmaster Flash
began making his mark on New York’s DJ scene in the
1970s when he invented many of the techniques and
equipment used by contemporary DJs, such as scratching
and slipmats. For one night only in 2012, the king of
hip-hop, who has been inducted into the Grammy Hall of
Fame, helped put Cambodia well and truly on the musical
map when he rocked a packed crowd at Phnom Penh’s
Pontoon nightclub. Spinning a number of old school jams
in his signature quick-mixing style, as well as more recent
tracks, the Grandmaster became the biggest in a growing
list of names to have taken to the decks in Cambodia.
Photos: Ruby Wright (1)
B
reaking free from
the assumptions
that often
surround a
troubled history
has proved
something of a stumbling
block for Cambodia in terms
of its ability to secure a place
HeatHer GraHam
PEOPLE
A MASTER’S WORK
Khmer Architecture Tours take visitors on cyclo tours of Phnom Penh’s historic and
iconic buildings, many of them designed by Vann Molyvann. Regular tours take
place on the second and fourth weekend of each month.
He built this city
Vann MolyVann: CAMbodiA’s gReATesT
ConTeMPoRARy ARChiTeCT
Photography by sam Jam
D
1950s and 1960s
Vann Molyvann helped
create one of the most
architecturally arresting
cities in Southeast Asia –
Phnom Penh. Fifty years
later, the monuments that symbolised
Cambodia’s post-independence
modernity continue to define the capital.
The star of the New Khmer
Architecture movement, Vann Molyvann
forged a bold and innovative style in the
wake of Cambodia’s sovereignty, helping
transform the kingdom from a sleepy
French colonial backwater to a vibrant
country that was at once young and old.
Under the patronage of then-King
Norodom Sihanouk, who gave the group
licence to modernise Cambodia through
construction and urban development,
Molyvann married classical Khmer
approaches to architecture with the
demands of 20th century living. His
designs embraced cultural heritage,
socio-economic conditions and the
environment, taking into account the hot
climate, seasonal flooding and the harsh
sun. He daringly used concrete to create
massive, expressive forms, seen today in
the Independence Monument and the
Chaktomouk Conference Hall.
With a keen eye and a steady hand,
Molyvann was alone responsible for
more than 100 major public works.
Many of them have been left in disrepair
or demolished, as the country embraces a
short-term view of development. In 2008,
uring the
g
two of his greatest works – the National
Theatre and the Council of Ministers
building – were bulldozed. In 2001, the
prized National Sports Complex – more
commonly known nowadays as the
Olympic Stadium – was sold to a private
developer who filled up its vital hydraulic
system through shoddy construction
work. The complex now floods regularly.
Born in 1926, Molyvann won a
prestigious scholarship in 1945 to
study law, architecture and Khmer
art in France, where he researched Le
Corbusier’s system of proportions that
became the basis for his designs. He
returned a decade later as Cambodia’s
first truly modern architect.
When war engulfed his homeland,
Molyvann took his family to
Switzerland. For the following two
decades he served as a consultant for
the United Nations at various posts
across the world before returning to
Cambodia in the early 1990s.
Now 86, he lives out his retirement in
his Phnom Penh family home, which he
designed in typical Molyvann fashion,
with his trademark ‘V’ designs. Leafing
through architectural books that he
penned, Molyvann points to “very
important” passages to illustrate his
architectural vision for Phnom Penh.
Half a century after Molyvann first
began to shape a nation, it is clear the
kingdom’s urban landscape is never far
from the thoughts of Cambodia’s most
revered architect.
CULTURE
plugging in
Looking for live music during your stay in Cambodia? The best bets for catching a show in
Phnom Penh are Equinox and Sharky’s Bar, while X Bar is Siem Reap’s go-to spot.
Blast from
the past
REdiSCovERing Khmer rocK’n’roll wiTh ThE CamBodian SPaCE PRojECT
Photography by Sam jam
S
in 2009, the
Cambodian Space Project
have become the kingdom’s
finest modern-day purveyors
of Khmer rock’n’roll. Their
mixture of classic covers and
original songs has introduced a brand
new audience to the country’s psychedelic garage rock of yesteryear. Diminutive chanteuse Srey Thy and lead
guitarist Julien Poulsen took time out
to discuss their project and the spirit of
Khmer rock’n’roll.
f Srey Thy, tell us about your
background before joining the band.
I was born in Prey Ngheat village
during the war. My father was in the
army, a tank driver, but times were
very hard. At a young age, I worked
in a rubber plantation, and then
at 19, I moved to Phnom Penh to
look for money. I was tricked by sex
traffickers, who kidnapped me, locked
me in a room and tied my hands
with electrical cable, but I escaped.
A neighbour heard my screams and
ince forming
Pretty in pink: the
otherworldly vocals
of Srey Thy are one
of the focal points of
the Cambodian Space
Project's sound
snuck in to help set me free. She
gave me $1.25 and I ran. Then I
worked as a maid before finding a job
singing karaoke.
f How did the band come about?
(Julien) I had made a few trips to
Cambodia already and had learned
about Khmer music. One night I heard
two girls in a bar singing and one of
them told me to come to the bar where
she worked, as she knew someone
who was “a really good singer”.
The person I met was Srey Thy. I
played her some music I had and she
seemed surprised that I had much
of her favourite music. She invited
me to listen to her sing at a Karaoke
club, where she sang a spine-chilling
version of the Peggy Lee song “Johnny
Guitar”. I was hooked, and six
months later I came back, booked a
couple of gigs and the first incarnation
of the Space Project was born.
f How would you describe your sound?
(Julien) CSP’s sound is a kind of cosmic
culture clash. We play 60s garage rock,
g
CULTURE
Revival: Srey Thy with other members of Phnom Penh's fast-growing music scene
but always try to push out of that
genre with psychedelic grooves and, of
course, with Srey Thy’s ethereal voice
hovering above the whole shebang.
Some reviewers have described CSP as
a perfect Tarantino soundtrack.
f Why do you think it is important to
keep the music of Cambodia’s past alive?
(Julien) The voices of Cambodia’s music
from the past are a haunting reminder
of a golden age and more significantly of
a culture that a genocidal regime could
never hope to completely extinguish.
Cambodia’s past culture is stunning and
unique and today’s flourishing cultural
revival in Cambodia is important.
The musicians of the past produced
exceptional work; the surviving
recordings are a testament to this.
f What is the reaction like when
you play abroad, especially given the
fact that all of your songs are sung
in Khmer?
(Srey Thy) It must be good; we keep
getting invited to go abroad, so I think
people like CSP despite the fact that
our music might be foreign to them.
Actually, I don’t think it’s a hindrance
but actually helps us.
f What Cambodian music would you
recommend people check out?
(Julien) If you start with AmericanKhmer band Dengue Fever, then this is
sure to lead you back to the ‘Golden
Era’ musicians and music of Cambodia.
All of this music is great. In Cambodia
today, Preap Sovath is a big star, but it
is also good to see traditional musicians
attracting the same notoriety, including
Chapei players like Master Kong Nay
and his wonderful protégé Ouch Savy.
The City of Ghosts movie soundtrack is
also well worth picking up.
“Cambodia’s music from the past is a haunting reminder of a golden age that
a genocidal regime could never hope to completely extinguish”
voices of a generation
Unbeknownst to many, Cambodia was busy
forging a reputation as Southeast Asia’s capital
of cool during the 1960s, particularly through a
rock’n’roll scene heavily influenced by the sounds
of Jimi Hendrix, the Doors and Phil Spector. This
music had begun permeating the kingdom via
the patronage of the culturally open-minded King
Norodom Sihanouk, as well as the personal radios
of American troops stationed next door in Vietnam.
The biggest star of the day was undoubtedly
Sinn Sisamouth, who gained fame as a silken
voiced crooner, but soon began experimenting
with a rock’n’roll backing group instead of the
traditional Cambodian preference for wind
instruments. The ballad “Champa Battambang”
remains perhaps his most revered recording,
along with covers of Western rock’n’roll classics
such as “The House of the Rising Sun” and
“Black Magic Woman”, both of which were
rewritten by Sisamouth into Khmer under the
titles “I’m Still Waiting For You” and “I Love Petite
Women” respectively.
A frequent collaborator with Sisamouth during
the 1960s and early 1970s was the female star Pan
Ron. The two recorded some of the nation’s most
loved duets, including “Bondaet Kbone Laeng”
and “Jole Jroke Sin Nean”. Pan Ron was also a
trailblazer in her own right, known for incorporating
a host of musical styles into her music, from rock
and cha cha cha to mambo and jazz.
Despite the popularity of both Sinn Sisamouth
and Pan Ron, there is one name that eclipses
all others in the pantheon of Khmer rock’n’roll
greats. Ros Sereysothea was a Battambang girl
who made her way to swinging Phnom Penh on
the back of her ‘golden voice’, and would become
a national treasure for the lucid storytelling of her
self-penned hits.
Few other artists are as intertwined with
Cambodia’s rock’n’roll scene as Ros Sereysothea.
Her song “Chnam Oun Dop Prum Mouy” (“I’m
16”) is widely regarded as the seminal example
of the thrilling direction Cambodian music was
taking before it was stopped in its tracks by the
Khmer Rouge.
CULTURE
on the scene
Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre in Phnom Penh is the country’s best source of archive
material. As one of the only places where it is possible to watch some of Cambodia’s classic
movies, it is an enjoyable way to spend a free afternoon in the capital.
the Bophana Audiovisual Resource
Centre in Phnom Penh.
Many of the movies centred on Khmer
morality or folk tales. When these
legends could be combined with the
much-loved schlock horror genre, all
the better as far as directors and fans
Classics: for all sorts of 1960s pop
culture goods, head to Vintage Shop
in Phnom Penh's Russian Market
were concerned. Pos Keng Kang (The
Snake King’s Wife) is one of the most
successful Cambodian films ever, given
its popularity in neighbouring Thailand,
while other gloriously titled hits of
the time include Kraithong Kropaer
Charawan (The Crocodile Man) and
Photo: Sam Jam
T
he vintage car rumbles
along to the sound of a
dreamy string section,
passing down a leafy
lane before arriving at
Cambodia’s foremost
architectural marvel, Angkor Wat.
The cinematography is washed out,
summoning thoughts of hazy summer
days in 1960s California, the scene
almost poetic in its simplicity.
This is the work of the late
Norodom Sihanouk,
Cambodia’s king
on two separate
occasions, and
one of its most
passionate and
prolific filmmakers.
Known as Crepuscule,
or Twilight in English,
the movie is typical of
his work: a whimsical
romance with an
underlying social
message and no reticence
in trumpeting Cambodia’s
natural beauty.
Often serving as writer, director,
producer and star, the bulk of KingFather Norodom Sihanouk’s cinematic
output came in the 1960s and early
1970s, a period often feted as the
golden age of Cambodian film. Several
production companies were formed
and more than 300 movies sated the
voracious appetite of the cinema-going
public during this period. Black and
white stills of queues snaking around
the block can still be viewed today at
For the world cinema
connoisseur, cambodia’s
1960s output holds a
kooky allure all its own
Photo: Xxxxxxxx, Xxxxxxxx
Our feature
presentation
Prea Krola Plak (The Fire Burn Witch).
Dy Saveth was the beautiful young
actress who took the female lead in
both The Snake King’s Wife and The
Crocodile Man but upon the Khmer
Rouge takeover in 1975, she fled
to France before returning in 1993.
Indeed, the bloody purge by Pol Pot
and his forces resulted in the assumed
deaths of famous actors such as Vichara
Dany, Kong Sam Oeurn and Van Vanak,
while the almost total destruction of the
industry itself was a blow from which it
has never really recovered.
Recent years have not been kind
to Cambodian cinema – the awardwinning documentaries of Rithy
Panh and Thet Sambath aside – with
dwindling audiences, a dearth of
finances and the onslaught of foreign
blockbusters all taking their toll.
Every so often, however, a flicker of
that old creativity is rekindled and
Cambodian cinema welcomes a
breakout production. Lost
Loves, released in 2010,
tells the true story
of one woman
who lost most of
her family during
the Khmer Rouge
genocide, using lush
cinematography as a
gross juxtaposition to
the horrors being
carried out
onscreen.
In contrast,
The Snake King’s
Child, directed by
Fai Sam Ang and
released in 2001, is an
update cum sequel to the
1970s horror blockbuster
The Snake King’s Wife. Based
around the same myth as the
original, this 21st century version
applied a risky interpretation of special
effects when trying to style the title
character, who has writhing serpents
instead of hair. The team simply glued
a throng of live snakes to a cap, which
lead actress Pich Chanbormey had to
wear throughout filming.
CULTURE
Monkeys and giants
An evening of shAdows And drums AwAits you At sovAnnA Phum
xxxxxxx xxxxxx
A
Sed quae molorrovitia voluptur? Quiscium endel intio et et pa con re volo ipsum
voluptat. Ebit perat. Pari dolorun totatem ad enisque molore vel idunt quam, ut
dis eaPelliquid magnatem que coriatatint.
mischievous monkey works its way through the
dimly lit crowd, prompting a young boy sitting
near the stage to squeal with delight. When the
monkey stops to pick through the hair of an
unsuspecting woman nearby, the squeal rapidly
erupts into a roar of laughter. The playful
monkey turns its face to bask in the delight of the child’s joy,
its wooden mask bearing a giant grin. A moment later, it
scurries off to join the rest of its troop on stage. The tale of
Hanuman continues.
It is a Saturday night in Phnom Penh and Sovanna Phum,
an independent association of artists and musicians, is once
again alive with music, song and dance. Tucked just off
Monivong Boulevard, this theatre – modest in structure
and design – presents some of the country’s best performing
artists during weekend shows that dip into the traditional and
experiment with the contemporary.
Stunning shadow puppets come to life in performances
that depict figures from Reamker, a classical Cambodian
poem based on the Sanskrit’s Ramayana epic. The dancers
manipulating these large leather puppets also use their bodies
to create images that shadow onto a large screen. In one
scene, four young dancers, accompanied by live music, merge
into a stylised tree, depicting moving leaves and flowering
buds using only classical hand movements with breathtaking
precision and beauty.
In sharp contrast to the quiet subtlety of this spectacular art
form, the drumming on display during nights that present the
Hanuman and Giants Big Drum show is unapologetically
loud. Incorporating huge Cambodian drums – which were
traditionally reserved for religious trumpeting or transmitting
messages between villages – with drums from Bali and
Senegal, the musicians show off their raw talent, and stamina,
in a show that leaves every audience clapping for more.
As every performance varies, there is no guarantee what
each show will entail, but lucky visitors will experience the
innovative ‘rubbish’ dance. This Cambodian version of
Stomp – a percussion show that uses everyday objects to
create upbeat rhythms – is a perfect way to round off an
evening at Sovanna Phum.
f For more information, visit shadow-puppets.org
playing with shadows
Shadow theatre uses puppets made of leather, called sbaek in Khmer, which are
art forms in themselves. Made from specially treated cowhide, the leathers used for
shadow puppetry at Sovanna Phum have been naturally dyed and hand carved by
Mann Kosal, Sovanna Phum’s president and artistic director.
CUISINE
sopheak pov
Topaz resTauranT
Bright
young
things
F
roadside shacks serving
up plates of bai cha (fried rice) to
glistening five-star establishments
with a focus on haute cuisine, every
taste and budget is well catered
for in Cambodia. Eating out is a
social experience for most locals, with casual
conversation with strangers struck up across
metal tables in a way that is somewhat alien
to most Western sensibilities. Cambodians
simply love their food and with a culinary
tradition stretching back hundreds of years,
the modern gastronomic adventurer can
experience a cuisine that takes its lead from
local tastes while incorporating the best of
Chinese, Thai and Indian flavours.
Given the country’s past association with
France, it is also no surprise to see European
influences making their presence felt. Some
of Cambodia’s top chefs have cut their teeth
during stints abroad, but there is a new
movement taking place in the kingdom, with
hungry young chefs learning their trade in a
modernising nation that boasts some of the
finest cuisine and cooks in the region. These
rising stars are the future of Cambodian
gastronomy and they are each striving to take
food in the country in exciting new directions.
Three of the finest kitchens in the land
challenged their brightest talents to create a
dish that exudes their tastes and personalities.
We’re sure you will agree that the future of
Cambodian cuisine is very bright indeed.
rom dusty
The rising sTars
of cambodia’s ToP
kiTchens prove
ThaT The fuTure of
Khmer cuisine is in
safe hands
“When I was a little boy, I always
loved cooking but it was very
hard to learn because I knew
nothing about ingredients. I
am Cambodian, but I love to
cook European food, especially
French because that is what I
specialise in. My head chef has
so many techniques and so much
experience, so I like learning from
him. My dish, tournedos rossini is
a French classic of beef topped with
foie gras and served with madeira
sauce. Usually this is served as one
large piece of beef, but my style is
to use smaller pieces so they are
edible in just two or three bites and
look very nice as well.”
“Sopheak has a very strong character
and this is very important for a chef
because the kitchen is a stressful
place. When I started in Cambodia
and found Sopheak, it struck me
how inquisitive he was and this is
another trait of a good chef. This can
be difficult in Cambodia because
traditionally food is only for eating, it
is not for thinking about.” ALAIN DARC,
Topaz head chef.
CUISINE
tim pheak, Song Saa private iSland
“I first learned how to cook through [local NGO] Smile Foundation. I love
to cook and I am encouraged on Song Saa to come up with my own ideas.
I am always trying to learn more about food and use the internet for
research in my spare time to help with my food education. The dish I made
is a deconstructed Khmer seafood curry. Curry is my favourite Khmer food
because my mother used to cook it for me when I was young. My Khmer
seafood curry is a very traditional dish in Cambodia and I have learned a
lot about deconstructing recipes during my time at Song Saa. It is a very
interesting way to cook and I think it looks good.”
“Pheak’s passion for learning about food is unbelievable. When we first got the chefs together, he was the first one to start writing down the recipes and
learning them in his own time. He even bought a camera so he could take pictures. He has done so much in such a short space of time; in my 25-year career I
have never seen anyone pick it up so quickly. It is just in his blood. He’s got a huge career ahead of him and I think that in four, five or six years’ time he will
be able to get any restaurant job he wants in Cambodia.” – NEIL WAGER, Song Saa executive chef
CUISINE
srey sokphon
Victoria angkor resort
“I have five brothers and sisters
and my mum was always busy
selling at the market, while my
father was a barber. This meant
when I was a teenager it was up
to me to do a lot of the cooking. I
started out as a steward here at
Victoria, cleaning up the kitchen,
but I was always watching how
they cooked and I eventually got
a promotion to become a chef.
My favourite thing about my job
is the creativity – coming up with
new ideas and recipes. I chose
to make stir-fried tiger prawns
with turmeric paste because
the flavours are wonderful and
I wanted to make something a
bit different and present it in
my own way.”
“Sokphon has been brought up in Khmer food culture, but since he has come to work with me, he has been able to improve his skills in Western food as well.
He is good at controlling food costs – which is very important for a restaurant – and developing new recipes and training other members of staff. He is certainly
our finest young chef and in just two years he has progressed rapidly to become junior chef. I think he has the potential to become Cambodia’s best chef
in the future.” – HAI VUTHY, Victoria Angkor Resort executive chef
CUISINE
Nothing but the best
Cambodian masterChef luu meng presents his favourite
ingredients for authentiC khmer Cooking
kampot pepper
“Kroeung is a very important ingredient for cooking in Cambodia; it is a mixture
of fresh herbs and spices such as chilli, lemongrass, shallots and many others.
The mixture becomes almost a paste and it has a mild spicy flavour that is very
versatile. It isn’t hot enough to burn your tongue, but it really adds to the aroma
of a dish and you can
taste that the spices are
fresh and not dried. This
mixture of herbs is used
a lot in Cambodia and in
neighbouring countries
as well. Each place
has its own variation.
Some prefer it a bit
more spicy, others like
it sweeter. In Cambodia,
we use kroeung in soups,
fishcakes, gravy and
it makes a delicious
marinade for chicken.”
“Kampot pepper is very special and gives opportunities to cook in many different
ways. A lot of chefs don't focus on pepper in terms of seasoning and tenderising
meat, but it is so important for that. If you look at Kampot pepper when it is
harvested, the individual corns get smaller as they go down the branch. The
small ones are best for
seafood, while the big
pieces at the top give a
stronger flavour, so they
are good for stews or
soups. The middle parts
are good for sauces and
marinating steaks. The
tastes are very different –
one branch is almost like
three different ingredients.
Pepper is like beans in
coffee, or grapes in wine –
there are so many
subtle differences.”
“Cambodian lemongrass
has a very distinct
flavour. It is different
from other types of
lemongrass, Thai for
example. Cambodian
lemongrass doesn't
look as pretty as some
other kinds, but it has
more of a lemon flavour;
it is almost zesty.
When cooking with it,
you can use less than
you might with other
lemongrass because of
that strong flavour. One
of my favourite recipes to use it with is lemongrass sour fish soup, or beef with
a lemongrass sauce. It also goes very well in desserts such as a nice creamy
coconut custard with a hint of lemongrass.”
“Prahok is definitely
unique. When people
smell it, many of them
assume they won't like
it because it has a very
pungent aroma, but in
terms of cooking, it is one
of the key Cambodian
ingredients. We use it for
lots of soups, sauces and
marinades – particularly
with fish – such as gobi.
It is delicious when
made into a paste with
lemongrass, then added
to fish and put in the oven.
We also use a small amount of prahok in our national dish of amok. It can be
used in bamboo shoot soup, fish curry, prawn curry – many dishes.
This is a key ingredient. We could barely cook without it.”
lemongrass
praHok
Photos: Sam Jam
kroeung
CUISINE
The world on
your fingertips
Russian
IrIna restaurant
With an atmospheric outdoor
setting, Irina serves up a taste
of home for Phnom Penh’s
Russian expat population. The
portions are generous and the
East European classic of borscht
is a must-try. This beetrootbased soup is predictably deep
red in colour but surprisingly
rich in flavour for a vegetable
broth. For the less adventurous,
the ever-popular chicken kiev
stands out for its succulent
poultry and satisfying garlic
butter ooze. With cuisine this
hearty, it is no wonder Putin
looks so buff in those illadvised shirtless photos.
sampling local delights is a must-do on any visitor’s itinerary,
yet cambodia provides numerous options for those wishing
to expand their global culinary horizons
at the table with huge skewers
of slow barbecued meats
and carve it off direct onto
the customer’s plate. Phnom
Penh’s Samba has been a big
hit with locals. Meaty highlights
include the incredible feat of
culinary engineering that is beef
covered in cheese, as well as a
nod to the Asian palate with a
deliciously sticky char siu pork.
tnoRth KoRean
Pyongyang restaurant
Suffice to say, most travellers
will never make it to North
Korea, but that doesn’t mean
they can’t get a taste of the
hermetic nation’s food and
entertainment. Pyongyang
Restaurants in Siem Reap
and Phnom Penh treat diners
to an all-singing, all-dancing
celebration of the Dear Leader
and the supposedly fertile soils
of the “beautiful fatherland”.
The delicious kimchi dumplings
aside, the food is often average
and overpriced. However, the
whole experience is so mind
frazzlingly bizarre that this
becomes little more than a
secondary issue.
BRazilian
Photo: Ed Wray (1)
samba brazIlIan
steakhouse
Meat lovers rejoice. There is
arguably no more satisfying
experience for ravenous
carnivores than dining at a
Brazilian churrascaria, where
a procession of waiters arrive
MyanMaR
Irrawaddy restaurant
Situated in a restored villa on
Street 334, the décor at Phnom
Penh’s Irrawaddy Restaurant
is simple, but the food
outstanding. Given Myanmar’s
location, it is no surprise that
its cuisine is influenced by
both South and East Asian
flavours. Irrawaddy’s chicken
biryani is highly recommended,
particularly when teamed with
a beef and split pea curry. If
in search of a true Myanmar
classic, diners need look no
further than pickled tealeaf
salad, but try it at your own risk
– it’s often a love-it-or-hate-it
proposition among visitors. Ask
them to put the small shrimp on
the side rather than in the salad
– they are incredibly salty and
definitely an acquired taste.
CUISINE
essentials
Frizz is located on street 240 in Phnom Penh, with half-day classes for $15 or a full-day course at
$23. Food allergies and vegetarian options can be catered for. If you find yourself craving some
kitchen action in Siem Reap, Tigre de Papier's cooking classes are very popular.
PRECISE AT TENTION
TO DETAIL
Do it yourself
Why leT The KInGdom’S PRoFeSSIonAl CheFS hAVe All The Fun? A VISIT
To A cookery school PRoVIdeS A dAy oF enTeRTAInmenT AS Well AS A Good Feed
dating back centuries to the Angkor
period. Phnom Penh’s Frizz restaurant
boasts the capital’s first cooking school,
and provides half-day or full-day
cooking classes featuring a selection of
Khmer dishes. Banana blossom salad
and the deliciously sticky traditional
dessert of sweet rice with palm sugar
and fresh mango are both included in
the menu for a full-day course, while
a half-day session sees participants
perfecting the art of fried spring rolls
and the country’s most famous dish:
fish amok.
Market forces
Holy roller
running aMok
A morning visit to a local market makes for a
lively start to the culinary experience. Greeted
by the vibrant colours and textures of exotic
fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices, a cooking
instructor guides budding chefs through the
various uses for the fresh ingredients, some
of which will feature back at the rooftop
cookery class.
Squeezing almost in single file down a tight
walkway between stalls, the fish for the amok
could barely be fresher than the seafood still
floundering on large metal slabs that line the
meat and seafood section of the market. Vendors
wield their cleavers with power and accuracy,
providing a more raw experience than the preprepared food and gentle assistants found at
Western supermarket deli counters.
Back at the cooking school, preparing the first
course of fried vegetarian spring rolls is a group
effort, hands busily peeling and grating the
carrot and taro fillings. The cooking instructor
talks the class through the art of softening
shaved taro using salt to extract moisture –
much like the process of producing coconut
cream – before demonstrating how to roll the
perfect spring roll. It should not be too loose,
or the oil will seep in, but not too tight, or the
filling will burst through.
After ten minutes in the deep fryer, the fingersized rolls are cooked through, just in time to
stave off the growing hunger of participants. The
empty plates following the taste test leave no
trace of the previous hour’s work.
The star of Cambodia’s culinary show comes last,
with everyone ushered to individual workstations
to prepare the base for the amok. Garlic, chilli,
tamarind, spring onion and shallots are ground
into a fresh yellow curry base using a mortar and
pestle, before chilli paste, peanuts, palm sugar,
fish sauce and egg are added to complete the
dish’s unique, delicate flavour.
It takes persistence and some strength to get the
paste to the right consistency, but the instructors
are eager to lend a hand, and advise that a food
processor will suffice.
Fish pieces, pre-prepared by the cooking school,
are added and left to marinate while banana leaf
cases are hand-folded to encase the dish while
it steams. The 20-minute cooking time allows
participants to mingle and take in the rooftop view
before enjoying a well-earned meal.
58
58 Discover
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Cambodia
Photos: Michael Klinkhamer
A
through the
kingdom guarantees
delights for all the senses,
but a day spent learning
the art of Khmer cookery
gives an insight into an
Asian cuisine that stays true to flavours
ny journey
AND THAT’S JUST THE BOT TLE
SOLE DISTRIBUTOR BY ATTWOOD IMPORT EXPORT CO.,LTD
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59
The Guide
Whether your journey in Cambodia sees you city slicking
in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, cruising towards the coast,
or going wild in the countryside, don’t miss the chance to
experience the country’s finest, whatever the destination...
Discover Cambodia: Sleep « Eat « Drink « Explore
Discover Phnom Penh: Sleep « Eat « Drink « Explore
eat
Phnom Penh
temPerorS of CHina
For fine Chinese cuisine served in an
exquisite setting, Emperors of China
offers a top-notch dining experience. The
Cantonese-based menu includes succulent
Peking duck and some of the capital’s
finest dim sum, prepared by Hong Kong’s
top chef Tony Wang. The contemporary
Chinese décor, with a striking red and
black colour scheme, creates an elegant
atmosphere.
Tel: +855 (0)23 637 6663
emperorschina.com
Few capital cities in Southeast
Asia find themselves at as
interesting a crossroads as
Phnom Penh. While many
tourists bypass its old school
charms en route to the temples
of Angkor, those who put in the
time to get to know this emerging
city are rewarded with fine
restaurants, exciting nightlife
and a cultural scene on the
brink of explosion. The identikit
high-rises are coming, however,
meaning time is of the essence
for those hoping to witness the
rebirth of ‘the pearl of Asia’.
la reSidenCe
SleeP
Hotel Sofitel PHnom PenH PHokeetHra
One of Phnom Penh’s premier five-star accommodations, Sofitel
Phnom Penh Phokeethra opened in late 2010 to meet the
city’s growing wave of business and luxury travellers. As one
of the region’s most prominent high-end hotel brands, Sofitel
Phokeethra aims for top quality experiences and extensive
amenities, including several dining establishments, a fullyequipped sports centre and a first-class spa.
Tel: +855 (0)23 999 200
sofitel.com
tHe Governor’S HouSe
Recall days of yore at The Governor’s House, a new five-star
boutique hotel in Phnom Penh’s popular BKK area. A former
senator’s home, the colonial-style mansion features ten rooms
furnished with European antiques. While away an afternoon in the
courtyard, where canopied lounges surround the swimming pool.
Tel: +855 (0)23 987 025
governorshouse.net
le villa ParadiSo
Photos: Sam Jam (3)
Located near boutique shopping hub Street 240, Le Villa Paradiso
is housed on a quiet street in the city centre. Each of the hotel’s
12 rooms features an individual décor, pairing Asian design with
modern amenities. To ensure a peaceful environment, the hotel
only allows children aged ten and up.
Tel: +855 (0)23 213 720
thevillaparadiso.com
eraffleS Hotel le royal
Not many hotels do colonial elegance with the
same flair as Raffles, and Le Royal certainly
evokes a bygone era. Displayed photographs
depict the hotel’s transformation over the
past century, including its 1960s heyday and
spell as a hideout for Vietnam War journalists
in the 1970s. Beyond the hotel’s historical
significance, recent renovations ensure that
guests enjoy thoroughly modern comforts.
Tel: +855 (0)23 981 888
raffles.com
Phnom Penh boasts several excellent
French restaurants, but La Residence
continues to stand out. Swiss-trained
chef Takeshi Kamo brings his Michelinstar working experience to Cambodia,
specialising in high-end fish, meat and
superb foie gras. The restaurant’s setting,
in what was once a Cambodian prince’s
residence, complements the refined
cuisine perfectly.
Tel: +855 (0)23 224 582
la-residence-restaurant.com
9deCo
A newer addition to Phnom Penh’s culinary
scene, Deco is already winning over
residents with its range of Asian-accented
European dishes. Besides offering one of
the city’s best burgers, Deco also serves
its own house-cured salmon and homesmoked mackerel. Another success from the
people behind the city’s popular Japanese
restaurant Yumi.
Tel: +855 (0)17 577 327
decophnompenh.com
Trying to keep up with a rapidly changing nation can be difficult, but a number of reliable and informed city guides are available in cafés, restaurants and online.
The Cambodia Pocket Guide, AsiaLife and lengpleng.com are among the best sources for finding out what’s on in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
SOMEPEOPLE
LIVE 240.
SO CANYOU!
Drink
Eat
ExplorE
Pontoon Club
and lounge
Pontoon is the city’s premier
destination for party seekers of all
ages and nationalities, positioned in
the centre of Phnom Penh’s nightlife
district. The line-up of local and
international DJs – which has included
Grandmaster Flash, Diplo and Goldie –
consistently packs in the crowds.
Tel: +855 (0)16 779 966
pontoonclub.com
bouChon Wine bar
Named after the Khmer word for ginger,
K’Nyay is a cosy but chic restaurant that
specialises in vegan dishes. Diners who
need more protein can opt to add meat,
but the veggie-filled stews and curries are
flavourful enough without. Fresh tropical
smoothies are reason enough to keep
coming back.
Tel: +855 (0)23 225 225
knyay.com
amBre
Chinese house
Every visit to the city’s old French quarter
should end with an evening at Chinese
House. Located on Sisowath Quay, the
bar and exhibition space – along with the
excellent Tepui Restaurant upstairs – is
set in one of the city’s most impressive
houses. Admire the mix of colonial and
Chinese architecture while sipping on an
exotic cocktail.
Tel: +855 (0)23 991 514
chinesehouse.asia
Phnom Penh’s markets may be full of
knick-knacks and knockoffs, but the city
also offers world-class shopping. Romyda
Keth, a French-Cambodian trained in
Paris, is one of the country’s leading
fashion designers. Located in a restored
villa on Street 178, the Ambre boutique
showcases Keth’s distinctive creations,
with elegant dresses and separates
arranged by hue.
Tel: +855 (0)23 217 935
romydaketh.net
eNagaWorld Hotel
aNd CasiNo
TOPTIP
From New York to London, cupcakes have
become a craze all around the world.
Phnom Penh is no exception, with not-forprofit organisation Bloom Cakes serving
up the bite-sized frosted delights in all
manner of crazy colours and flavours.
Bloom also prepares cakes to order,
creating works of culinary art almost too
pretty to eat but too delicious to resist.
Tel: +855 (0)77 757 500
bloomcreations.org
TRAVELLER
Go Coco-nuts!
For sweet
refreshment on
a hot day, sip on
a fresh coconut.
Available on
many street
corners, as well
as from mobile
carts, coconuts
can be purchased
for only 2,000
riel (50 cents).
Vendors will
hack open the
coconut, insert a
straw and serve
you a fresh,
natural drink.
Family fun: Encourage the little ones to feed otters and come face-to-face with magnificent tigers at Phnom
Tamao Zoo and Wildlife Rescue Centre. Located 30km outside of Phnom Penh, it is a great place to spend a
morning or day with children.
9Bloom Cakes
Timeless and inimitable, the Elephant
Bar at Raffles Hotel Le Royal is the
epitome of old-world charm. A pianist
adds to the ambiance in the evenings,
while expert bartenders blend artisanal
cocktails. During Happy Hour, order the
Femme Fatale, a signature drink created
in honour of Jacqueline Kennedy’s 1967
visit to the kingdom.
Tel: +855 (0)23 981 888
raffles.com
Photos: Sam Jam (3), Nigel Dickinson
K’nYaY
Cambodia’s most renowned chef, Luu
Meng, presides over the kitchen at Malis
and the result is some of the country’s
best Khmer cuisine. The menu presents
traditional dishes finessed by modern
cooking processes for a gourmet finish.
As such, Malis is a great place to sample
prahok, Cambodia’s famously fishy
fermented condiment.
Tel: +855 (0)23 221 022
malis-restaurant.com
Royal Palace
Street 240
240 PHNOM PENH
British Ambassador’s Residence
Commission of the European Union
Sihanouk Boulevard
Independent Monument
elePhant bar
emalis
TOPTIP
In addition to its perennially popular
restaurant Friends, NGO Mith Samlanh
operates a second eatery that
concentrates on Cambodian cuisine.
The restaurant functions as a training
programme, where former street youth
hone their cooking and hospitality skills.
Travellers can taste well-prepared local
specialties, including cooked tarantulas
and beef fried with ants for those
who dare.
Tel: +855 (0)92 219 565
mithsamlanh.org
TRAVELLER
9romdeng
Singaporean
Embassy
Norodom Boulevard
Southeast Asia may be known for
cheap whisky, but more refined tastes
can also be quenched in Phnom
Penh. At Bouchon Wine Bar, drinkers
are spoilt for choice by the variety of
exclusive French labels and delectable
martinis. The sophisticated setting is
an ideal place to unwind after hours of
sightseeing, with wooden tables and
chairs situated around an elegant bar.
Tel: +855 (0)77 881 103
Key Phrases
g Hello
Sua s’dei
g Goodbye
Lia hao-y
g How are you?
Sok sabai?
g Sorry
Sohm toh
g Yes
Baat (man)
Jaa (woman)
g No
Ot-tay
g Thank you
Awkun
Prepare to flash the cash at
NagaWorld, where the stakes are
high and there’s always a game
running. The country’s ritziest
gambling locale features scores of
slot machines, roulette tables and
ongoing poker tournaments, as well
as a number of restaurants to re-fuel
at in between games.
Tel: +855 (0)23 228 822
nagaworld.com
When preparing for a trip from the capital by road, be aware that it is highly unlikely buses and roadside stops will
have toilet paper or soap in their bathrooms. Pack both for a more hygienic journey.
240 PHNOM PENH is home to 42 luxury
apartments set in the smartest quarter of the city.
A prime neighbourhood surrounded by art galleries,
designer boutiques, fine restaurants as well as
embassies and royalty.
240 PHNOM PENH represents the ultimate
in desirable urban living: an unrivalled choice
of 1-4 bedroom units, duplexes and penthouses
featuring the comforts of a high-end hotel such
as an in-house boutique, bar, gym and a spacious
infinity rooftop pool.
240 PHNOM PENH luxury residence includes:
• Fully furnished apartments
• Fully equipped kitchen & laundry
• Rooftop infinity pool and bar
• Managed by an international team
• Secure car park
• 24 hour security
• High speed internet
• More benefits upon request
No.50B, St.240,
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
+855 23 996 240
+855 12 271 636
[email protected]
240PhnomPenh.com
fb.com/240PhnomPenh
CAMBODIA
For a truly local
experience,
nothing beats
the BBQ Party
Buffet. Located
on the corner
of Monivong
Boulevard and
Street 86, the
restaurant
allows diners to
select and grill
their own meats
and seafood on
ingenious tabletop barbecues
known as Phnom
Pleung, or Fire
Mountain. There
are few better
deals in town
than this all-youcan-eat gem.
9SunSet CoCktail CruiSe
Vibrant sunsets over the Mekong River
are one of Phnom Penh’s everyday
pleasures. For the optimal view, book a
sunset cruise on the Kanika boat. The
floating restaurant and bar serves Asian
delicacies and a range of cocktails, beers
and wines. Departing from behind the
Himawari Hotel, the boat also offers
lunch and dinner cruises.
Tel: +855 (0)12 848 802
kanikaboat.com
tMeta HouSe
For a thought-provoking evening, Meta
House never fails to disappoint. The
German Cambodian cultural centre
features ongoing exhibitions with local
and international artists, as well as
nightly film screenings, concerts and
other creative happenings. With an
emphasis on promoting Cambodian
talents, the centre is a vital part of the
country’s burgeoning arts scene.
Tel: +855 (0)10 312 333
meta-house.com
Photo: Heng Sinith (1)
TOPTIP
TRAVELLER
ExplorE
Discover Siem Reap: Sleep « Eat « Drink « Explore
Although only a few minutes drive
from the town centre, Navutu Dreams
– surrounded by rice fields and sugar
palms – feels a world away. A new
addition to Siem Reap, the luxury resort
is founded on a vision of style and
attention to detail. Modern white villas,
two pristine pools and a yoga centre lie
within the impressive grounds.
Tel: +855 (0)63 688 0607
navutudreams.com
Cambodia’s most visited town has come a long way in the past decade. The
nearby temples will forever be its main draw, but Siem Reap has done a
remarkable job of retaining a small town ambience despite the influx of tourists.
Some of the country’s finest hotels and most imaginative chefs now call Siem
Reap their home and, allied with bountiful experiences in the surrounding
countryside, a visit here is always so much more than temple tourism.
Built in 1962 to accommodate friends and
guests of then Prince Norodom Sihanouk
who were unable to stay at the nearby royal
residence, the Amansara got a facelift and
was taken over by Amanresorts in 2002.
The incredible architecture, along with a
first-class restaurant housed in the former
ballroom, continues to host Siem Reap’s
most illustrious guests. It’s the hotel of
choice for celebrities such as Angelina Jolie.
Outside guests may only enter through
Amansara’s imposing gates with a lunch or
dinner reservation.
Tel: +855 (0)63 760 333
amanresorts.com
Photos: Sam Jam (3)
Siem Reap
tamaNsara
evictoria aNgkor
Three vintage Citroën cars sit outside
Victoria Angkor, summoning up the
elegance of times past. With its
1930s-style architecture, the five-star
hotel pays homage to Cambodia’s
French colonial era. Rooms are designed
according to distinctive themes, such as
the African safari themed suite with Zulu
designs and leopard print textiles.
Tel: +855 (0)63 760 428
victoriahotels.asia
TOPTIP
9Navutu Dreams
TRAVELLER
Sleep
Best Bus
Among the
numerous bus
companies
shuttling
between Phnom
Penh and Siem
Reap, Giant Ibis
has established
a reputation
for reliability
and comfort.
The company’s
fleet is more
luxurious than
the average, with
leather seats,
air conditioning
and WiFi worth
paying slightly
extra for. The
added leg-room
can make all the
difference on a
five-hour journey.
Tel: +855
(0)23 999 333,
giantibis.com
shiNta maNi
For design devotees, Shinta Mani is the
obvious accommodation choice. Envisioned
by architect Bill Bensley, the boutique hotel is
a glamorous affair in the centre of Siem Reap.
The premises were constructed and decorated
with a nod to Khmer style, interpreted with a
modern, cosmopolitan take.
Tel: +855 (0)63 761 998
shintamani.com
eheritage suites
Ideal for families and groups, this boutique
hotel, located near Siem Reap’s river, prides
itself on providing genuine hospitality.
As a part of Relais & Chateaux, a Frenchfounded association of esteemed hotels
and restaurants around the world, Heritage
Suites comes well recommended.
Tel: +855 (0)63 969 100
heritagesuiteshotel.com
Helping has never tasted as good as when you’re dining at Haven, temple town’s training restaurant for young adult orphans that also provides English and computer lessons.
Fill your belly with a delicious Khmer curry and warm your heart knowing that your meal has helped give someone a chance in life. havencambodia.com
Discover Siem Reap: Sleep « Eat « Drink « Explore
Drink
Eat
PiCasso TaPas Bar
tMiss Wong
TOPTIP
TRAVELLER
Positioned along funky Alley West, home to
some of Siem Reap’s most popular spots,
Picasso’s exposed brick walls and dimmed
lighting are reminiscent of a New York
urban lounge. The conversation with the
lively bar staff is just as engaging as the
tapas dishes and house specialty sangria.
asana
A traditional Khmer wooden house –
re-envisioned with a funky décor – is
the home of Asana, a one-of-a-kind
restaurant and bar right in the city centre.
Live piano on select evenings and other
artistic happenings add to the joie de vivre
ambience. Try the Tamarind Sauce, one of
the bar’s signature Khmer cocktails, for an
inventive blend of local flavours.
Tel: +855 (0)92 987 801
asana-cambodia.com
Smoking Ban
Put away the
cigarettes during
your temple tour.
As part of efforts
to reduce litter
and prevent fires,
a recent smoking
ban forbids lighting
up on the Angkor
Wat grounds.
Conjuring up the glamour of 1930s
Shanghai, the sumptuous and very red
Miss Wong is a definite favourite among
Siem Reap’s expatriates. Lanterns and
vintage Chinese posters line the walls, but
it is the devilishly good cocktails, including
the beloved Mocha Martini, that keep
locals and visitors coming back for more.
Tel: +855 (0)92 428 332
FCC
While the Phnom Penh FCC is feted as a
local legend, the Siem Reap incarnation
provides a similarly relaxed atmosphere in
a riverside colonial building. Come Happy
Hour, the FCC is the place to be for a vibrant
social scene with wonderfully realised
spaces both inside and out.
Tel: +855 (0)63 760 283
fcccambodia.com
Located just off tourist central Pub Street,
Il Forno serves the best Italian food in
temple town, of that there is little no
doubt. Wonderful wood-fired oven pizza
and homemade pasta dishes have made
regulars out of many of Siem Reap’s
expatriate community. This is one cosy
trattoria that is definitely worth a visit.
Tel: +855 (0)78 208 174
Best of the best
Cambodia’s
most famous
dish, amok, is
served all over
the country by
establishments
claiming theirs
is ‘the best in
Cambodia’.
Sugar Palm,
one of Siem
Reap’s best loved
restaurants, has
more right than
most to claim
such an accolade.
The Touich, a reservation-only Cambodian
restaurant, is located three kilometres
outside Siem Reap. It is certainly not easy
to find but, fortunately, the restaurant can
send a tuk tuk – or a vintage 1964 jeep – for
pick-up by request.
Tel: +855 (0)92 808 040
the-touich-restaurant-bar.blogspot.co.uk
CaFé De la Paix
Photos: Sam Jam (2)
il Forno
The menu at Abacus changes on a weekly
basis, often leaving diners begging for
the return of their favourite dish. With
the week’s dining options posted on
a blackboard by co-owner and head
chef Pascal Schmit, the refined French
and international cuisine matches the
restaurant’s gorgeous garden setting
stride for stride.
Tel: +855 (0)12 644 286
cafeabacus.com
TOPTIP
Cuisine Wat Damnak serves refined
Cambodian cuisine across two set menus
that change weekly. Located in a traditional
wooden Khmer house, the restaurant is the
brainchild of Johannes Riviere, former head
chef of Hôtel de la Paix and arguably Siem
Reap’s most skilled kitchen artisan.
Tel: +855 (0)63 965 491
cuisinewatdamnak.com
the touiCh
eabaCus
TRAVELLER
9Cuisine Wat Damnak
Discover some of Cambodia’s feathered
friends around Siem Reap. Part of a
wildlife conservation project, the Sam
Veasna Centre offers birding experiences
led by in-the-know guides. The Temples
& Birds one-day itinerary is perfect for
combining Angkorian ruin exploration
with birdwatching. White-bellied
woodpecker, rufous-winged buzzards
and white-rumped pygmy-falcons are just
some of the exotic species that can
be spotted.
Tel: +855 (0)63 963 710
samveasna.org
TOPTIP
Bird WaTChing aT
saM Veasna CenTre
TRAVELLER
exPlore
Night Market
With silk scarves,
wooden carvings
and silver boxes
galore, the night
market is the
place to pick
up Cambodian
souvenirs for
negotiable prices.
Stalls are spread
across wooden
huts in an outdoor
area nearby Pub
Street.
angkor BuTTerFly
Tired of temples? Spend a day with the
butterflies at the Banteay Srey Centre, a
community-development project where
native species fly freely in a netted
tropical garden. Learn about these
fascinating creatures while admiring their
colourful beauty at close range.
Tel: +855 (0)97 852 7852
angkorbutterfly.com
It may have been constructed during the
reign of Suryavarman I, but the West Baray
reservoir still makes for a great spot to swim,
picnic and watch the sun set.
9FloaTing Village
To see another side of life in Cambodia,
visit one of the floating villages on the
Tonle Sap Lake. Chong Kneas is the most
commonly visited, where private boats
can be hired onsite. Many of the people
living on the houseboats are poor ethnic
Vietnamese, who have created a selfcontained town complete with a floating
school and church.
Although Siem Reap’s much-loved
Hotel de la Paix may have closed its doors,
Café de la Paix enjoys another existence in
a new location. The swanky café continues
to serve its savoury fare and tasty pastries,
and vies neck-and-neck with Abacus as
the purveyor of Siem Reap’s best burger.
Patrons can also visit the hotel’s former
spa in the same building.
Tel: +855 (0)63 966 008
Temple passes: Visitors to Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples can choose between single day ($20),
three day ($40) or weeklong ($60) passes. Payment must be made in cash at the sales booths near the
complex’s entrances, which are open from 5am to 5.30pm.
Discover The South: Sleep « Eat « Drink « Explore
relax
Sleep
Sleep
From one of Cambodia’s most glamorous
destinations in the 1960s – a port of
call on Jacqueline Kennedy’s tour of
Cambodia – to a Khmer Rouge hideout,
the Independence Hotel has seen it all.
The perfect white main building is a
proud reflection of Cambodia’s exciting
architecture of yesteryear. Be sure to
request a room with floor-to-ceiling
windows, which offer superb ocean views.
Tel: +855 (0)34 934 300
independencehotel.net
nataya reSort
Escape Kampot’s guesthouse scene at
Nataya, a secluded resort located at the
foot of Bokor Mountain. Deluxe bungalows
overlook the beach, which features a
picturesque pier jutting out into the sea.
Horses are known to graze on the hotel’s
grass, completing Nataya’s image as an
idyllic getaway.
Tel: +855 (0)33 690 2011
natayaresort.com
TOPTIP
9independenCe hotel
everything
TRAVELLER
The south
Cambodia’s coast can be
whatever you want it to be.
Sihanoukville offers bountiful
options for night owls, while Kep’s
hillside resorts take relaxation
to new levels. If in search of the
finest beaches the kingdom has
to offer, a trip offshore is required,
with the Koh Rong archipelago
demonstrating just what Thailand
lost in its unregulated scramble
for tourists. Back on dry land,
Kampot is arguably Cambodia’s
most charming small town – a
perfect spot for meandering along
quiet streets and letting life float
by as slowly as the river.
Lazy Times
Head off for a
perfect slice
of island life
at Lazy Beach,
located on
the picture
perfect Koh
Rong Samloem.
Bungalows
are basic but
comfortable,
although anyone
who spends
time in their
room in such
surrounds might
be better off
booking a head
examination
instead of a
holiday. Call
+855 (0)17 456
536 for booking
information.
Knai Bang Chatt
Knai Bang Chatt is christened with
a Khmer phrase meaning “rainbow
encircling the sun”, which speaks
to the resort’s commitment to
hospitality. Expect to be well-taken
care of at this stylish resort based
around a restored 1970s villa. An
infinity pool and first-rate spa are
further attractions at Kep’s most
upscale hotel.
Tel: +855 (0)78 888 557
knaibangchatt.com
essential oil blend
+
celadon hand made
burner
SeCret garden
Whereas Serendipity Beach draws
the party animals, a more relaxing
experience can be found at Otres
Beach. Along this quieter seaside
stretch, The Secret Garden offers
ten bungalows, the beach’s only
swimming pool and an Australian
chef-run restaurant. For simplicity
and serenity, look no further.
Tel: +855 (0)97 649 5131
secretgardenotres.com
tVilla romonea
Photos: Sam Jam (1), Lim Mengkong (1)
natural jasmine rice
body scrub with
chinese rose
Ever fantasised about having your
own seaside villa? Villa Romonea, a
private villa built in the 1960s, offers
guests the chance to live the dream in
Kep. With fantastic ocean views, acres
of land, a tennis court, an infinity
pool and six bedrooms, Romonea is
the ultimate holiday rental for groups
of friends and/or family.
Tel: +855 (0)12 879 486
villaromonea.com
Terracotta soy wax candles
and hundreds of others products
dedicated to relax YOU
SIEM REAP
PHNOM PENH
Bodia nature
Psar Chaa / Pub street
next to Bodia SPA
open from 10am>midnight
Bodia nature
10# street 178,
100m from FCC
open 9am>10pm
Bodia nature
Lucky mall ground floor,
open from 9am>10pm
Bodia nature
Russian Market
shop No. 284/285,
open from 9am>5pm
Bodia nature
Angkor Night Market,
open from 5pm>midnight
MADE IN CAMBODIA
www.bodia-nature.com
Discover The South: Sleep « Eat « Drink « Explore
Drink
Eat
ExplorE
ThE sailing Club
the diVe ShoP
As the Cambodian counterpart to
Nantucket, the sailing club at Knai Bang
Chatt is the place to sip an icy drink
while watching fishing boats on the
horizon and taking in a glorious sunset.
The well-stocked bar, adjacent to a dock
that stretches out into the sea, serves up
ambrosial cocktails.
Tel: +855 (0)78 333 686
knaibangchatt.com
Rabbit iSlaNd
Beneath Cambodia’s waters lies an aquatic world waiting to be
explored. The Dive Shop, Cambodia’s only PADI 5 Star National
Geographic dive centre, offers lessons and day trips to nearby
islands, including the beautifully untouched Koh Rong. With a
mission to give back to local communities, the centre also supports
social projects and promotes marine life conservation.
Tel: +855 (0)34 933 664
diveshopcambodia.com
rikiTikiTavi
Slightly more upmarket than Kampot’s
other riverside eateries, the barrestaurant at Rikitikitavi is located on
an intimate covered balcony. Between
5pm to 7pm, the bar offers two-for-one
cocktails with premium alcohols. Whiskys
are Rikitikitavi’s strong point, with an
exclusive selection of Scottish single malt.
Tel: +855 (0)12 235 102
rikitikitavi-kampot.com
Ta Eou
CafE sushi
Freshness is key at Cafe Sushi, where rolls are
prepared with seafood direct from the ocean.
Under its Japanese chef, the eatery produces
Sihanoukville’s most authentic sushi, as
well as bento boxes, okonomiyaki and
other specialties. For a behind-the-scenes
experience, book a fishing boat tour and
sushi-making lesson through the restaurant.
Tel: +855 (0)34 934 800
cafesushizen.com
CabbagE gardEn
Ask for “Jumka Spay” to find this in-theknow Cambodian restaurant in downtown
Sihanoukville. Known as Cabbage
Garden by Anglophones, the family-run
eatery serves cheap and tasty cuisine.
Set in a leafy garden, the atmosphere
is relaxed and simplistic but the food
– particularly the grilled and stir-fried
seafood dishes – makes for a truly
local experience not to be missed.
9Crab MarkET
Kep’s finger lickin’ good specialty – freshly
caught crabs stir-fried in a tantalising
Kampot green pepper sauce – brings locals
and expatriates from miles around. A trip to
Kep simply has to include a visit to one of
the simple seafood restaurants set along the
coast, where customers can see their crabs
being retrieved from gently bobbing baskets.
Off the beaten path, Ream National Park
is one of Cambodia’s wonders that is
definitely worth discovering. Park rangers
guide visitors on a boat through exotic
mangrove forests, freshwater dolphins beg
for attention, and the isolated white sand
beaches are some of the best on Cambodia’s
mainland. So many options, so little time.
eThE dECk
Taxi!
Although
travelling by
bus is the most
economical,
taxis are the
fastest way to
travel to and
from southern
Cambodia.
Whole cars
can be hired to
Sihanoukville for
around $50 and
to Kep/Kampot
for around $35.
Around the
towns’ markets,
drivers rent out
single seats in
shared taxis.
Passengers are
packed in, so
purchasing two
seats is advised.
9VeRaNda SwimmiNg Pool
Veranda Resort is a perennial favourite
of Phnom Penh weekenders. Scattered
across a hill in Kep, rooms are located
down rock-paved passages and wooden
walkways. For a small fee, visitors can use
the saltwater swimming pool and enjoy
the dramatic setting.
veranda-resort.com
bokoR NatioNal PaRk
Bokor has long been a must-see for visitors to the Kampot area. The
first stage of efforts to develop the park into a resort have recently
been completed, yet even the best efforts of ill-advised developers
cannot diminish the glorious views from atop Bokor hill. The eerie,
empty shells of its former incarnation as a playground for the rich
– long the main draw for visitors – remain for the time being.
The grandest of the Sihanoukville resorts,
Sokha Beach Resort sprawls across 23.5
hectares of property. Non-guests can
enjoy views of the private beach at The
Deck, the hotel’s tapas bar set over the
ocean. Enjoy the al fresco atmosphere
while sipping your choice from the
extensive cocktail and wine list.
Tel: +855 (0)34 935 999
sokhahotels.com
Captain cave fan: Kids will love getting a taste of being an explorer for a day in the numerous caves outside
Kampot. Phnom Chhnork and Rung Damrey Saa are the pick of the bunch, with the former housing a small
temple and the latter showing off beautiful stalactite formations.
Ream NatioNal PaRk
Get up to speed
on the people, places and events shaping Southeast Asia
Photos: Sam Jam (3)
Popular among Cambodians for its
inexpensive local food, Ta Eou enjoys a
prime position on stilts over the Kampot
River. The kitchen’s focus is on seafood,
including crab brought in from Kep and
a variety of classic Cambodian dishes.
Be sure to order something with fresh
green pepper, the area’s renowned
agricultural product.
Tel: +855 (0)33 932 422
TOPTIP
Aside from the crab market and hotel
restaurants, there are relatively few dining
options in Kep. Breezes is a notable
exception, serving a range of Asian and
European dishes in a romantic beachfront
setting. As throughout the south, seafood is
the menu’s centrepiece, and the flavourful
renditions of squid, scallops and crab are
worth sampling.
Tel: +855 (0)16 251 454
TRAVELLER
9brEEzEs
Rabbit Island – Koh Tonsay in Khmer – can be reached by a short
boat trip from Kep. Tranquillity reigns on the small island, with little
for vacationers to do but slather themselves in sunshine, swing
in hammocks and bathe in the sea. The island’s few restaurants
are extremely basic, so prepare for slow service by ordering well in
advance of boat departures.
The region’s leading magazine on current affairs, business and culture.
Available across the Kingdom and at airports throughout the region.
www.sea-globe.com
new york
Elsewhere: Sleep « Eat « Drink « Explore
steakhouse
Drink
Sleep
Balcony Bar
It will certainly be some time before Battambang can claim to have a
vibrant nightlife, but those looking for evening drinks should head straight
to Balcony Bar. Overlooking the Sangker River, the atmosphere is relaxed
and intimate, making it easy to chat to your fellow patrons, usually an
interesting mix of travellers and expats.
Tel: +855 (0)12 437 421
Visits to Koh Kong used to entail ‘roughing it’. Nowadays, travellers can end
their days of jungle trekking with tapas and a cocktail. With a restaurant
from the team behind Phnom Penh’s popular Spanish eatery Pacharan, Koh
Kong Bay Hotel offers a superb drinks menu as well as gorgeous views of
the Ko Pao River.
Tel: +855 (0)77 555 590
kohkongbay.com
Satisfy your wanderlust by
exploring Cambodia’s lesserknown wonders. Battambang is on
the rise as an arts capital, Kratie
hosts the rare Irrawaddy dolphins,
Koh Kong is a nature lover’s
dream, and remote Mondulkiri
and Ratanakiri provinces are
known for their green hills and
untouched jungles.
la villa
This eco-tourism escape is located in
the valley above Mondulkiri’s provincial
capital Sen Monorom, featuring private
stilted cabins surrounded by gardens.
The surrounding highlands rank highly
among Cambodia’s most enchanting
sights, with Nature Lodge a delightful
place to soak in the dramatic
natural beauty.
Tel: +855 (0)12 230 272
naturelodgecambodia.com
Known for its colonial buildings, Battambang
is a must for those with architectural interests.
For the complete experience, check into La
Villa. Constructed in 1930, the well-preserved
former residence is built around an exquisite
glass-roofed atrium. Antiques and art deco
furniture accentuate the feel of returning to an
elegant past.
Tel: +855 (0)17 411 880
lavilla-battambang.net
natuRe lodge
Coke confusion
When in
restaurants
outside of main
tourist centres,
you may find
your requests
for “a Coke” met
with puzzlement.
Cambodians refer
to the world’s
most popular
soft drink as
“Cokaah”, with an
emphasis on the
second syllable.
Change your
pronunciation
and you’ll be
supping the
brown nectar in
no time.
Family fun: there are few better ways to discover Cambodia’s countryside
as a family than by renting bicycles and making a day of it. Kratie and Koh
Kong have a number of routes that aren’t too tough on young legs, but be
sure to pack sunscreen and water as the heat is less forgiving.
eat
eWhite Rose
White Rose (also known as Kolab Sor)
certainly has a no-frills aesthetic, but
it also serves some of the best food in
the northwest. Situated in downtown
Battambang, the kitchen turns out large
portions of regional favourites and
delicious fresh fruit shakes.
Tel: +855 (0)12 536 500
whiterosebattambang.com
Red sun Falling
Although Irrawaddy dolphins are the
main reason for calling in at Kratie, the
small town has one of the north’s more
atmospheric spots in waterfront pub Red
Sun Falling. A selection of Western and
Asian favourites are complemented by a
well-stocked bar should things get lively.
9ElEphant Exploration
Spend some time with the elephants in
Mondulkiri. Travellers can become mahouts
for the day at the Elephant Valley Project
NGO, learning how to care for these noble
creatures. Offering lodgings and all manner
of information, the project’s primary goal is
to improve the health and welfare of domestic
elephants in Mondulkiri Province, while also
working with the local people to address the
health and livelihood problems they face.
elephantvalleyproject.org
BamBoo BridgE
During rainy season, Ko Paen island in Kampong
Cham Province is only accessible by boat.
Come dry season, however, a bamboo bridge is
constructed allowing brave souls to cross over
the Mekong’s waters. Although it looks rickety,
the well-engineered bridge is built to allow
pedestrians, motorcycles and even cars access to
the sandy isle.
TOPTIP
Terres Rouges remains the top choice for
adventurers to the northeast who don’t
want to sacrifice style while travelling. The
former residence of the provincial governor,
it provides the perfect spot to unwind after
a day spent enjoying the lodge’s numerous
excursions, such as exploring nearby
villages, forests and waterfalls.
Tel: +855 (0)12 770 650
ratanakiri-lodge.com
TRAVELLER
teRRes Rouges
Seclusion and luxury converge at
Koh Kong’s 4 Rivers. No leaky tents here:
this is eco-tourism for a sophisticated
set. Floating on a picturesque riverbank,
the tented villas offer the experience
of camping in the wilderness without
compromising on comfort. Each room is
outfitted with a flat screen television, minibar and WiFi.
Tel: +855 (0)23 217 374
ecolodges.asia
TOPTIP
94 RiveRs Floating lodge
ExplorE
TRAVELLER
Elsewhere
Koh Kong Bay hotEl
Natural
Splendour
Waterfalls
are among
Cambodia’s
many natural
wonders. There
are several worth
visiting, including
Tatai in Koh
Kong, Boo Sra
in Mondulkiri,
Ka Choung in
Ratanakiri and
Kbal Chhay near
Sihanoukville.
Visit during the
rainy season to
see them at their
most powerful.
Bet te Davis
T h e R i c h A r e A lway s Wi t h U s , 1 9 3 2
Fashion
Beef
264, St. 63 (Corner of Mao Tse Tung Blvd.)
Sangkat Tonle Bassac
The Essence
of Cambodia
77
www.steakhouse.com.kh
i 855
23 Discover
9872013
500
Famous since 1997
LGBT: Sleep « Eat « Drink « Explore
Drink
Sleep
rainBoW Bar
Although homosexuality
remains a tricky issue for
many Cambodians, the
lesbian, gay, bisexual
and transgender (LGBT)
community is beginning
to make its voice heard.
Attitudes and awareness
are not at the level of
neighbouring Thailand, but
Cambodia’s gay-friendly
hotels, restaurants and bars
assure a warm welcome.
ManoR House
Located just a few steps from Phnom
Penh’s central Independence Monument,
Manor House is a charming gay-friendly
boutique guesthouse in a striking mansion.
Rooms are smartly decorated, and the
outdoor pool is a tranquil bonus.
manorhousecambodia.com
qMen’s ResoRt and spa
This exclusively gay resort in Siem Reap
is perfect for the traveller who wants
to make the most of his hotel stay – a
fully equipped gym, saltwater pool
and professional spa are among the
considerable attractions at Men’s, which
has 14 rooms.
Tel: +855 (0)89 787 600
mens-resort.com
Gay-owned salon The Dollhouse is Phnom Penh’s go-to spot for the capital’s trendy young things
BLue ChiLLi Bar
Blue Chilli draws a crowd almost
every night of the week, but on
weekends it’s the hopping hub
for Phnom Penh’s gay partygoers.
The bar opens onto the sidewalk
in the evenings, with couches set
outside for enjoying the fresh air. On
Thursdays, take advantage of drink
specials for Pride night.
Tel: +855 (0)12 566 353
eat
Gay-Friendly
Tuk Tuks
A gay friendly,
Englishspeaking tuk
tuk driver can
help introduce
travellers to the
gay scenes in
Phnom Penh and
Siem Reap. In
the capital, call
Sopheap, also
known as Steve,
on +855 (0)17
902 593. In Siem
Reap, Gold Tuk
Tuk (+855 (0)92
502 691) also has
a reputation for
being gay and
lesbian friendly.
TOPTIP
TRAVELLER
The centre of gay nightlife in Siem
Reap, Linga was one of the first gay
bars to open in the kingdom. The
lounge attracts a mix of Cambodians
and Westerners, and is especially
popular for its weekly Saturday night
drag show.
Tel: +855 (0)12 246 912
lingabar.com
Utopia-asia.com
To find
out what’s
happening
with the gay
and lesbian
communities in
Cambodia, go
to utopia-asia.
com. The website
maintains online
resources for
all around Asia,
including a
specific section
for Cambodia,
and should be a
first stop when
planning a gayfriendly trip in
the kingdom.
The STaTion Wine Bar
Known for its recurring events – with live
bands, DJs and themes – The Station is
a high point of Siem Reap nightlife. The
bar is set in a classy, stylish space, where
customers of all sexual orientation are
welcome. A drag show takes place every
Saturday from 9pm.
Tel: +855 (0)97 850 4043
thestation.asia
CheerS CamBodia
Touted as the kingdom’s first LGBT resort,
Cheers Cambodia welcomes all. The
British-owned and -managed facilities in
Sihanoukville feature deluxe rooms, an
impressive swimming pool and a sociable
bar scene. For those who aren’t staying as
guests, it’s still worth stopping by on select
evenings for dance shows.
Tel: +855 (0)34 934 585
cheers-cambodia.com
Large outdoor terraCe
Free wiFi
breakFaSt SeLeCtion
Sunday muSiC brunCh
home made PaSta & Pizza
FreSh juiCeS & ShakeS
LiVe muSiC & dj’S
magazineS & newSPaPerS
great CoCktaiLS
ExplorE
tHe eMpiRe
eCamBodia Pride Week
The Empire is serious about cooking up
flavourful local food, as well as other
regional dishes, and hosts a popular
steak night. The gay-friendly restaurant
is set in an intimate space near Phnom
Penh’s riverside, and the hospitable
service makes diners feel as if they are at
a friend’s house.
Tel: +855 (0)77 851 230
the-empire.org
Although the first unofficial pride event took place in
Cambodia in 2004, the country has officially celebrated LGBT
Pride Week for four years. Drawing support from the local
and international community, with increasing numbers of
visitors from around the globe, annual Pride Week events
take place around April and include art exhibitions, parties,
a Pride Film Festival and much more.
phnompenhpride.blogspot.com
La gaLerie X-em
Art aficionados should not miss a visit to La
Galerie X-Em in Phnom Penh. The boutique
gallery is owned and run by gay Cambodian
artist Em Riem. His revolving exhibitions
feature his own work as well as other exciting
Cambodian artists, encompassing painting,
design, sculpture, couture and more.
Tel: +855 (0)23 722 252
ViRotH’s RestauRant
Viroth’s Restaurant is one of Siem
Reap’s most chic places to dine. The
establishment is owned by couple
Fabien Martial and Kol Viroth, who
have created a business based on both
style and substance. The laab and
Khmer sour soup are tasty exemplars of
Southeast Asian cuisine.
Tel: +855 (0)12 826 346
Photos: Sam Jam
Golden Banana is one of Siem Reap’s bestvalue accommodations, with lower-priced
bungalows in addition to more upscale
boutique rooms. The fresh breakfasts,
included in the room rates, are a highlight,
along with the three swimming pools. Gay
travellers will appreciate that the place is
also gay-owned and -managed.
Tel: +855 (0)12 654 638
goldenbanana.info
TOPTIP
9Golden Banana
9Linga Bar
Shameless
at Pontoon
Pontoon is the
place to be on
Thursday nights,
when Shameless
takes over
Phnom Penh’s
most popular
nightclub. Hosted
by promoter
Marcus Mucous,
the weekly party
celebrates the
gay community
with flair. DJs
get the crowd
grooving, with
go-go dancers
and drag queens
adding to the
flamboyant
atmosphere.
TRAVELLER
LGBT
TOPTIP
TRAVELLER
One of the capital’s newer gay bars, Rainbow
quickly wooed a crowd of locals, expats and
visitors with its bright, funky interior. Weekly
drag shows add to the fun, as do various
theme parties and events. Music is kept
lower for optimal conversation.
Tel: +855 (0)97 741 4187
THE
rEsTauranT
& bar
on THE
rivErsidE
241 SiSowath Quay
Phnom Penh Cambodia
The
Essence
of Cambodia
Discover 2013
+855
0(23)
220 554
79
IN THE KNOW
XXXXXXXXX
And now for
something a little
bit different…
Cambodia offers plenty of opportunities for visitors
seeking to escape the floCk and spread their wings
Gibbon GandeRinG
Meditation MoRes
For a chance to see the rare
northern yellow cheeked gibbon
head to the far-flung province of
Ratanakiri in the northeastern
corner of the kingdom, where
the endangered species was
first discovered in 2010.
Gibbon Spotting Cambodia, a
community based eco-tourism
project, offers wildlife lovers an
opportunity to see the animal in
its natural habitat with a twoday, one-night trek starting from
Ban Lung.
Looking for inner peace? The
Cambodia Vipassana Centre
will help you to still your mind
and gain new insight through
meditation. Located outside of
Battambang, the centre is set in
a spacious area surrounding a
hill. Held throughout the year,
a ten-day Vipassana residential
course teaches key techniques to
meditation neophytes. Besides
courses for adults, there are also
short programmes for children
and teenagers. All courses are run
on a voluntary donation basis.
Tel: +855 (0)53 648 8588
RecReational aviation
An incredible aerial escapade
can be had with Siem Reap’s
microlight flights – the latest craze
in recreational aviation. Often
compared to being on a winged
motorcycle, microlight flights are
a unique way to explore Siem
Reap from above. Choose from
four routes, including a 15-minute
journey over the Roluos temples,
a 30-minute flight over Angkor
Wat and its surrounds, or a longer
combination of all itineraries.
Each are an opportunity for
magnificent photography.
skyventure.com
Photo: Sam Jam
Tel: +855 (0)63 966 355
gibbonspottingcambodia.com
nestled near a
national park,
Jasmine valley is
a privately owned
eco-resort in the
coastal city of
kep. bungalows
or ‘tree houses’
are solar-powered
and come with
a great view
of the sea. sip
homemade
starfruit cider
while trying to
catch a glimpse of
the great hornbill
that flocks to the
area.
IN THE KNOW
Stage Spectacular
ta perfect SunSet
Complement your temple
explorations with a dramatic
vision of the Angkor era. Over
75 minutes, the Smile of Angkor
show presents traditional
Cambodian dances alongside
re-enactments of history and
legends. Special effects, including
lasers, smog and a powerful
sound system, create an intense
experience to be enjoyed by all
ages. The performance has been
directed by the deputy general
director of the 2008 Olympic
Games closing ceremony, and
features a grand ensemble of
Cambodian dancers.
It’s difficult to imagine a more
idyllic place to watch the sunset in
Phnom Penh than The Bungalows.
Located only a 20-minute cruise
from the Riverside, the floating bar
is an oasis from the city’s hubbub.
With wines, beers and cocktails,
as well as an antipasto platter, the
menu is perfect for a lazy afternoon.
The two thatched-roof structures
open directly onto the river, with
little to distract from the gorgeous
views of Phnom Penh at sundown.
The Bungalows only open on
weekend evenings, so be sure to
call beforehand to reserve and
coordinate transportation.
smileofangkor.com
quadruple the fun
Give riding around Siem Reap in a tuk tuk a swerve.
Why not power a quad bike through the jungle instead?
Heritage Adventures offers unique half- and one-day
quad/buggy tours that will keep the adrenaline rushing as
you ride to Kulen Mountain national park, accompanied
by an experienced guide. Heritage Adventures also gives
you the opportunity to swap your sleeping bag for a
soft bed on luxury camping tours that take guests off
the beaten track and into the heart of the countryside –
without compromising on comfort.
+855 (0)77 555 447
Say cheeSe!
nippy norry
Dress up like royalty, swoon
under jungle waterfalls or
engage in a sword fight in front
of Angkor Wat – everything
and anything is possible when
you head to one of Cambodia’s
ubiquitous camera shops for
a photo shoot, Khmer-style. A
more elaborate affair for women,
who undergo rigorous styling,
it is certainly possible to bring a
bottle of vino and make a day of
it. With Photoshop-happy postproduction designers at the ready,
you’ll walk away slimmer and
younger in one simple click.
Riding Battambang’s bamboo
train – also called a norry – is
one of Cambodia’s most unique
experiences. Rustic platforms
made from bamboo and mounted
on wheels have long been used
by locals to shuttle products
and people over short distances.
With construction underway to
rehabilitate the country’s rail
system, the days of the bamboo
train may be numbered. All the
more reason to visit as soon as
possible. Rides can easily be
coordinated by hotels or tour
groups in Battambang.
back to nature
Paddy's Fight
Club fitness
centre in Phnom
Penh specialises
in pradal serey
boxing, a type
of freestyle
kickboxing
developed
during Angkorian
times. Under the
direction of Paddy
Carson and his
team, newbies
can learn the
techniques in
personal training
and group classes.
Explore the submerged
mangrove forests of Koh Kong
in a kayak. The communitybased eco-tourism site at Chi
Phat, situated within the aweinspiring Cardamom Mountains,
offers visitors the chance to
explore the region via kayak
river tours and other treks,
including mountain biking.
A visit to the eco-tourism site
helps to support both the local
community and flora and fauna
conservation.
heritage-adventures.com
Tel: +855 (0)92 720 925
ecoadventurecambodia.com
Photo: Sam Jam, Peter Harris, Sacha Passi
reap reflection
Revitalising your mind and body is the mantra at
Hariharalaya Retreat Centre on the outskirts of Siem
Reap. The retreat centre is designed for people who seek
an escape from stress, with a staff of healers and yogis
on hand for guidance. Healing services include massages,
yoga and meditation classes, diet coaching and detox
programmes. The raw vegetarian and vegan food will
ensure your stomach is as nourished as your soul.
hariharalaya.com
SHOPPING
Hey, big spender
www.villasalt.com
with Cambodia-based designers making their mark on the fashion sCene, Shopping
in the Kingdom is no longer just about bagging a bargain at a market stall. so if
you are ready to spend, it is less a question of where to go, but where to start...
Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa Salt along with SentoSaSilk, work
together to create an atmosphere that feels like home. Explore and experience fourteen artistically designed
rooms, each crafted to give you that authentic feel and sense of uniqueness.
W
andering tree-lined Street 240 in
the kingdom’s capital, browsing
shop windows and delighting in
cafes is a perfect way to spend an
afternoon away from riverside’s
livelier pace. Recently entering
the local fashion scene, First Floor offers a one-stop
shop for threads created by local and international
fashion names. Featuring designers such as
Cambodia-based Eric Raisina – who has worked
with leading fashion houses Christian Lacroix and
YSL – the grand building brings a hint of Harrodsesque luxury to Phnom Penh’s very own ‘high
street’. Meanwhile, those in search of a boutique
experience are well catered for in Cambodia’s
capital. Waterlily is perfect for perusing a unique
and fantastical collection of handmade accessories.
If time permits, Ambre – one of Cambodian
designer Romyda Keth’s three boutiques – is
renowned for its tailor-made creations by the
French-trained couturier. Whether it is a madeto-order suit or a dress straight from the colourcoordinated racks, Ambre is indulgent shopping at
its finest in Cambodia. To achieve a perfect finish
for a new outfit, Garden of Desire is known for its
elegant handcrafted silver accessories inspired by
the simplicity of nature. First established in Siem
Reap, the jewellery boutique has since expanded
to the capital, where it has firmly built its name as
Phnom Penh’s top high-end accessory destination.
Villa # 4 Street 294, BKK 1, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
t 023 211 729 e [email protected] | [email protected] w www.sentosasilk.com
Share the
kingdom’s
secrets
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View and down
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Headpiece by Waterlily
Earrings and sunglasses available at Paperdolls
Bag by Eric Raisina
Dress by H2O available at Paperdolls
Scarf by Colorblind
Bracelet by Garden of Desire
Hair and styling by Dollhouse
Shot on location at Garden of Desire, Phnom Penh
Photo: Sam Jam
Get the look
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The 2013 editio
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dis
SPAS
SEEING HaNdS
The blind masseuses and masseurs at Seeing Hands are continuing a centuries' old tradition that gives
people without sight the chance to spin a living out of their disability. Getting a massage from this chain
of massage centres is an easy and enjoyable way of supporting the country's blind community.
amansara
On the grounds of the royal family’s
former guest villa in Siem Reap,
Amansara’s spa is an ode to design and
receives top marks for its ambience and
body treatments.
Signature: the Apsara – a full body
scrub, wrap and mini facial
Bodia spa
Cocoon yourself in a tranquil world at
Bodia Spa, a place to indulge in natural
treatments that soothe temple-weary feet
and help escape city stresses in Siem
Reap and Phnom Penh healing havens.
Signature: Kampuchea body wrap, made
from fresh mango, plant yoghurt, egg
yolk and honey
sofitel phokeethra
Whether staying at Sofitel in Phnom Penh
or Siem Reap, five-star pampering at So
Spa offers a treat for the senses that takes
influence from Ayurvedic medicine and
blends ancient Southeast Asian therapies
with modern French cosmetology.
Signature: rice-body-polish
Healthy glow
Live the Navutu Dream...
www.navutudreams.com
Photos: Sam Jam (1)
gone are the days when pursuing pleasure and doing what was good for you were
mutually exclusive activities. whether emerging from the tourist trail for a pick-me-up
or seeking a treatment that leans on the teachings of ancient khmer healing, cambodia
provides a world of restful sanctuaries that combine health and indulgence
frangipani
Sample a luscious menu of massages
and body treatments while soaking up
the soothing vibes of this rejuvenating
getaway tucked down a quiet street right
in the heart of Siem Reap.
Signature: four hands massage
enatural kingdom
Take a slab and a splash of Cambodia home with Bodia Nature’s range of
handmade organic products that include soaps, oils and salts. With the likes of
Ratanakiri coffee scrub and lemongrass natural soap, a little bit of the kingdom
will waft through your bathroom at home, ensuring that deeply relaxing pampering
sessions don’t end along with your holiday. Likewise Scenteurs d’Angkor uses
mango and other local delights in its range, which includes massage oils, creams
and bath salts. Showering at home will never be the same again.
GETAWAYS
GettinG there is half the fun
A boat ride from Siem Reap to Battambang makes for a more scenic alternative to travelling the route by land. The river
journey weaves through wetland scrub and past floating villages and fishing communities along the Tonle Sap and Sangker
River. While it can take twice as long as a bus ride, it is one of the best ways to see Cambodia’s natural landscape.
Finding
Battambang
for ThoSE SEEkinG To combine urban life with
nature and relaxation, ThE kinGdom’S SEcondlArGEST ciTY iS A pErfEcT dESTinATion
Dinner time: every sunset, more than two million bats take flight from the caves of Phnom Sampov
Photos: Conor Wall; Nicolas Axelrod
B
attambang is a city with
two tales. It is a place
where urban life has
slowly started filtering
its way into quiet
streets known for their
colonial charm, while a mountainous
backdrop, vast rice paddies and
pockets of wild lotus flowers flourish
just outside the city centre.
Battambang province sits in the heart
of the northwest, with the capital set
along the banks of the Sangker River.
Farmer trade continues to surpass that
of the tourist, but word is spreading
and the lure of this elegant riverside
city is starting to take hold.
Roaming the streets lined with
pleasantly dilapidated French
architecture allows the curious
traveller to take in the buzz of urban
Cambodian life, without the brashness
you would expect from the country’s
second-most populous city.
Unshy about its penchant for
statues and monuments, oversized
representations of gods and legends
are abundant throughout the city centre.
The most famous monument of all sits
at the eastern end of the city and relates
to the story from which Battambang
derived its name. Loosely translating
as ‘disappearing stick’, it refers to the
local legend of Preah Bat Dambang
Kranhoung, a farmer who becomes king
by wielding a powerful black stick.
A day spent delving into traditional
folklore, meandering along the
riverside to peruse market stalls,
and learning the traditional art of
rice paper making are fundamental
to appreciating the essence of the
city. However, the true beauty of
Battambang can only be discovered
beyond its downtown streets.
“A quintessential
Battambang experience
is the bamboo train, a
thrilling ride through
picturesque countryside”
Mid-afternoon is a perfect time
to start the journey out to Phnom
Sampov, a striking mountain that rises
out of the plain with panoramic vistas
over the province. A series of steps will
lead you up this limestone hill in less
than 15 minutes, but a motodop ride
will save weary legs and deliver visitors
to the well-preserved stupas and
temples at the peak.
Steeped in history, this religious site
is also home to the ‘killing caves’,
which are located about halfway up the
mountain and where a memorial for
victims of the Khmer Rouge is open for
those seeking to delve further into the
mountain’s dark history.
Despite its tragic past and spectacular
views Phnom Sampov truly comes to life
as the sun begins to descend, when more
than two million bats take flight from a
cave at the mountain’s base in an aweinspiring show of nature. At dusk the
bats swirl en masse through the evening
sky in a tight spiral formation, into the
horizon and over the neighbouring rice
fields as they seek their daily feed.
Another quintessential Battambang
experience is the famous ‘bamboo
train’: a thrilling, short ride that passes
through picturesque countryside.
g
GETAWAYS
Home from Home
Emerald plain: Phnom Sampov’s stunning vista
Also known as a ‘norry’ and
originally built to transport goods from
one village to another, this wooden
platform on wheels runs along seven
kilometres of abandoned train tracks,
with the rickety ride reaching speeds of
up to 50km/h.
The single track services a twoway path, so when two trains meet,
the one with the lightest load has to
be deconstructed and taken off the
rails to allow the other to pass. The
arrangement is effective, but it can
make for an extended journey during
peak hours. For the most enjoyable
experience go in the early morning,
when the weather is still mild and
traffic is minimal. At the end of the
line, take time to chat with local
villagers who will eagerly show you
the traditional kilns used to turn clay
sourced from local land into bricks.
Following a day of mounting mountains
and nippy norries, Cambodia’s first
and only winery might be just the right
drop. Banan Grape Farm is a small
but ambitious business located on the
outskirts of the city. Despite local terrain
and weather conditions providing perfect
rice growing conditions, Cambodia’s
countryside was long thought completely
unsuitable for grape production.
Nonetheless, red wine and brandy are
produced locally at the grape farm. While
the taste admittedly leaves something to
be desired for the budding sommelier,
the locally-made ginger juice is worth the
stop for a refreshing pick-me-up with a
sharp but sweet kick.
Finally, for a night of light-hearted
entertainment, Phare Ponleu Selpak
circus provides a spectacular show of
acrobatics, music, drama and good
old-fashioned clowning around – all
performed by underprivileged youths.
By day, the circus school opens its
doors to the public, where the strength
and discipline of the youngsters can
be appreciated as they hone their
gymnastics skills at training sessions,
and openly welcome the chance to
show off their individual talents to
curious onlookers.
While Battambang’s indisputable
assets are making it a rising star on
Cambodia’s tourism landscape, it
remains a small town at heart – and
there lies its ultimate attraction.
Photos: Conor Wall; Nicolas Axelrod (3); Sacha Passi
Bamboo bounty: experience Battambang’s unique train service
Using organic rice and vegetables grown
on-site, Battambang Resort serves up
some of the best Asian and Western food
in the province, with the banana blossom
salad a definite highlight. The resort’s
saltwater pool provides a serene spot
to enjoy an evening cocktail as the sun
goes down over the expansive rice fields.
Located just outside of the city centre,
the resort is a top Battambang choice for
comfortable and modern accommodation.
We all stand together: the performers of Battambang-based Phare Ponleu Selpak put on a show at their circus school
GETAWAYS
Sit back
Escaping Cambodia’s bumpy roads can be a challenge, but the Royal Cambodian
Limousine Service makes travel in the kingdom a little smoother with its fleet of luxury cars
that can be hired by the hour or day – with a chauffeur, of course.
Day tripper
ExpEriEncE thE EssEncE of rural cambodia,
right in Phnom Penh’s backyard
OUDONG
The crumbling capiTal
be reached after a short (but strenuous)
climb up a series of cement stairs. The
views from the summit are excellent.
Marginalised members of society
often find their way to religious centres
to seek help and, if you are so inclined,
giving Oudong’s handicapped and
elderly beggars 500 riel (12 cents)
will buy you smiles and good karma.
Remember – Cambodia has no real
social security network.
Immediately northwest of the
mountain, the sprawling Cambodia
Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Meditation
Centre is worth a visit. In addition to
its splendidly decorated main sanctuary,
one of the complex’s smaller buildings
houses the glass-encased remains of a
recently assassinated monk.
KOH DACH
The capital of Cambodia from 1618 to
1866, Oudong is the final resting place
of several Cambodian kings. The ruins of
temples and stupas dot the twin humps
of Oudong’s small mountain, which can
The TimeleSS iSlanD
Life on Koh Dach seems frozen in
time. Cows, chickens and children
roam the island’s narrow dirt streets
while adults tend small plantations
and the ancient wooden looms they
keep tucked beneath their stilt houses.
Friendly locals are more than happy
to show you their beautiful woven
wares, and by buying sarongs, scarves
and other textiles directly from Koh
Dach’s weavers, you help ensure the
preservation of their traditional – and
increasingly difficult – way of life.
Most weavers can be found along
Koh Dach’s outer road. In the dry
season, you can rent picnic huts at
Breathtaking: Phnom Chisor provides a great vantage point to take in Cambodia’s lush countryside
the beach on the island’s northern
tip. Agree on all prices in advance. If
you’re looking to stay the night, check
out Villa Koh Dach on the island’s
northwestern shore.
PHNOM TAMAO
a pOacher’S menagerie
The sprawling Phnom Tamao Wildlife
Rescue Centre houses over 1,200 animals
rescued from Cambodia’s illegal wildlife
Photos: madeinmars.eu, Daniel Otis (3), Phnom Tamao Rescue Centre
C
rumbling royal tombs, the
slow clatter of a wooden
loom, the menacing
mandala of a tiger’s
smile – armed with a map
and a little curiosity, you
don’t have to travel far to taste the
quintessentially Cambodian. It can
easily be found within an hour or two’s
drive of Phnom Penh.
trade. Animals are given basic, but
large, enclosures and are cared for with
the assistance of several international
NGOs. Highlights include frenetic
gibbons, lazy sun bears and a terrifyingly
large Burmese python. Elephants are
often paraded through Phnom Tamao’s
forested grounds, and there are mynas
in the bird enclosure that mimic Khmer
greetings and revving motorbikes.
Beware of the semi-wild macaques
that roam the zoo. While cute, they can
be vicious – don’t look them in the eye!
After the zoo, stop by Tamao Temple,
which features a brightly painted
modern pagoda next to the bombed-out
foundations of an 11th century stupa.
Freshly caught prawns, grilled river
fish, fried vegetables and beer with ice.
With all of this enjoyed from shady
bamboo and thatch riverside huts, Kien
Svay is truly a picnicker’s paradise.
The site is wildly popular with city folk
at weekends but during the week, it is
almost empty. Picnic huts with lounging
mats and hammocks can be rented
for about $1.25/hour. Hut proprietors
prepare a plethora of delicious dishes
while women paddle the river in
wooden boats, selling fresh fruit, boiled
corn and giant freshwater prawns. A
short boat ride up and down the river
(approximately $2/person) is also a
worthwhile distraction.
KIEN SVAY
PHNOM CHISOR
A PICNICKER’S PARADISE
THE HOLY MOUNTAIN
Phnom Chisor is breathtaking. Although
not nearly as large as the temples of
Angkor, this 11th century brick, laterite
and sandstone structure is perched atop
a 133-metre-high hill, making it one
of the most noticeable landmarks in its
otherwise flat surroundings. From Phnom
Chisor’s summit, one has an unbridled
view of the countryside, particularly
magical when the area’s rice paddies are
at full flood. Several ancient roads are also
visible from the summit, many of which
are still being used.
There are inscriptions and carvings at
the site, as well as a modern pagoda,
benches and a giant cement elephant.
Friendly novice monks will likely be
happy to show you around. While
watching the sun set from Phnom Chisor
is definitely worthwhile, it will make for
a fairly nerve-wracking return trip in
the dark. Alternatively, come first thing
in the morning and then visit Phnom
Tamao in the afternoon.
f For detailed directions and other practical
information on all of these day trips, visit
sea-globe.com
GETAWAYS
wild
Into
the
Step into the liveS and homeS of local villagerS
where life is simple but the rewardS are plentiful
V
Photo: Sam Jam
“ Delve into the depths of provincial life where nature and tradition
meander in sync with a bygone time, and the largely unchartered
soul of the kingdom will reveal itself ”
illage life is raw,
rustic
and downright humbling;
needless to say community
tourism is not for everyone.
But dare, if you will, to
delve into the depths
of provincial life, where nature and
tradition meander in sync with a bygone
time, and the largely unchartered soul of
the kingdom will reveal itself.
Isolated from the tourism buzz of
Angkor Wat and the grinding streets of
Phnom Penh, Stung Treng province in
the country’s far northeast is a gateway
to pristine waterfalls, exquisite flooded
forests and the rare Irrawaddy dolphin.
Traditional fishing boats are standard
transportation for villagers living along
the Mekong River, and they become
the foundation for visitors looking to
explore the province.
Driving into the sunset as it descends
beyond the mountainous divide that
separates Laos from Cambodia is a
mystical start to a journey into the
homes and lives of villagers at Preah
Rumkel. Just ten kilometres from
the Laos border, life in this small
community is an intriguing blend of
traditional Khmer and Laotian cultures.
As darkness settles, weary travellers
are met by welcoming smiles and
a home-cooked meal, made from
the freshest local ingredients, which
satisfies a ravenous belly and proves a
treat for the tastebuds.
A night in a homestay is a simple
affair devoid of the urban influences
reserved for mass tourism. A shower
can be as simple as a bucket and water
from a rain tank, while squat toilets are
still widely used.
Evening hours are spent enjoying the
company of your host family and travel
companions, and bedtime is called early
as the lights go out with the generator
switch by mid-evening.
As the saying goes ‘early to bed and
early to rise makes a man healthy,
wealthy and wise’. With roosters
welcoming a new day well before the
sun emerges, the appreciation of an
early night reaches new levels.
With the help of a bold brew of
Laotian coffee, an early morning trek
through grassy terrain and alongside an
open dirt road becomes an achievable
endeavour – and a worthy one at
that. After meandering through Preah
Rumkel’s forest landscape, the rewards
g
Creature Comforts
If a homestay doesn't appeal, but exploring village life does, Rajabori Villas on
Koh Trong Island offers comfortable wood carved boutique bungalows from
$45 per night, with an onsite pool and restaurant.
become plentiful, with clear water from
the Mekong crashing over limestone
boulders at the awe-inspiring Preah
Nimit waterfall.
In the dry season translucent rock
pools make for perfect swimming holes,
but as the water rises with the wet
season the pristine water gully becomes
a rushing rapid.
A motodop ride along a carvedout stretch of forest provides a
relaxing, picturesque return to the
village centre where dolphin spotting
awaits. Close to extinction, catching
a glimpse of the Irrawaddy species
is a chance not to be missed when
in the northeastern parts of the
country. Basking in protected waters
they frolic close to the shoreline, the
distinct grey silhouette is practically
guaranteed to surface within minutes
of your arrival.
acclaimed variety is widely gifted to
dignitaries across the country as a sign
of respect.
After a long day, sleeping mats lining
the floorboards are a welcome sight and,
as mosquito nets are drawn, drifting
into a peaceful slumber is easier the
second time around.
A leisurely ride by bicycle or traditional
horse-drawn cart is ideal for taking in
Koh Trong’s landscape, scattered with
fruit orchards, rice fields and the smiling
faces of villagers who meet your passing
with a mix of curiosity and excitement.
These encounters may be fleeting, but for
a more permanent imprint on the lives
of the islanders, take the opportunity
to get your hands dirty and plant a tree
at Koh Trong’s forest regeneration site.
Marked with a wooden name plaque
in your honour, and the promise of
updates as your tree grows to maturity,
it is a symbolic end to an experience
that gives something back to a country
that embraced the tourism boom not so
many years ago.
Nature calling: exploring the waters of the kingdom’s northeast unveils protected flora and fauna exclusive to
Stung Treng province
Truly one of the most enchanting
natural sights in Cambodia is the
magnificent Ramsar Flooded Forest.
When the water is low enough, the
intricate roots of the trees are exposed,
making for one of the most scenic
kayaking ventures in the country. If
the leisurely pace of a self-paddled
boat does not appeal, a speedboat
is a less strenuous alternative; it will
swiftly deliver you to Stung Treng
town, where lunch at a community
based training centre supports
underprivileged youth building their
hospitality skills.
For a taste of rural island life, Koh
Trong, across the river from nearby
Kratie town, is a secluded pocket where
villagers welcome visitors into their
traditional wooden-stilted homes and
generous hearts. Famous for its pomelo
citrus fruit, each meal at the homestay
is accompanied by this sweet treat –
a gesture of honour as Koh Trong’s
including a round trip from Phnom Penh to
Stung Treng over 3 days and 2 nights from $350
per person. Tailor-made community based tours
are also available. To see the best of Stung
Treng’s Mekong stretch visit between January
and April. asia-adventures.com
Photos: Sam Jam (4), Asia Adventures (3)
“Basking in protected waters,
the Irrawaddy dolphins frolic
close to the shoreline”
f Asia Adventures provides a similar tour,
GETAWAYS
Making waves
Take to the waters in Kampot with a few hours’ kite surfing. Villa Vedici offers
something for every ability, from taster sessions for the uninitiated to kite rental for
more experienced water babies.
Photography by Michael Klinkhamer
Coastal kings
Take iT down a noTch while Travelling Cambodias 3k’s:
koh kong, kampoT and kep
Stretch out: the rock falls on Koh Kong’s Tatai River present a perfect moment to relax
T
he afternoon sun beats
down on the cool waters of
the Tatai river; rain clouds
loom on the horizon.
In the midst of the
Cambodian jungle, tourists
take a moment to soak up their
stunning environs as they bathe in the
shallow waters of the rock falls. They
are in Koh Kong, home to gawking
monkeys, flying squirrels and a hidden
world of weird and wonderful creatures
yet to be discovered by man. Koh Kong
is one of Southeast Asia’s last bastions
of biodiversity.
The conservation corridor is a source
of great pride for Cambodians, with
camera traps turning up sightings
of hog deer, hairy-nosed otters and
giant ibis – rare animals not thought
to reside in the area. Wildlife rangers
are sometimes treated to the sight of
fresh elephant tracks, though these
mammoth beasts of burden are rarely
heard or seen.
In such a lush, verdant area, it
may come as little surprise that ecolodges such as Rainbow – which is
nestled in the southwest foothills of
the Cardamom mountains – offer
opportunities to explore the wilds of
the jungle through walking tours and
boat trips.
Not too far away, former poachers
have replaced their traps with maps
at the Chi Phat and Trapeang Roung
community-based eco-tourism projects.
Taking visitors on excursions into
the local forests, the guides point out
medicinal leaves and rare flowers on
half-day or full-day treks.
The area’s extensive mangrove
swamps provide an insight into
another life-giving world, which is
occasionally home to the Irrawaddy
dolphin. These endangered marine
mammals can sometimes be seen
swimming around the entrance
of the Stung Koh Poi estuary and
upriver to Krong Koh Kong, the
provincial capital.
A border town once considered
Cambodia’s Wild West, Krong Koh
Kong is a jumping pad from which
to explore the other highlights of
the conservation corridor, such as
the pristine beaches of Botum Sakor
National Park and Koh Kong island.
A drive towards Cambodia’s
southeast meanders through
undulating hills, passes under jungle
canopies, crosses rivers and arrives at
the kingdom’s twin jewels: Kampot
and Kep.
“Wildlife rangers are
sometimes treated to the
sight of fresh elephant
tracks, though these
mammoth beasts of burden
are rarely seen”
Lean back: the mangrove swamps of Koh Kong
Crumbling colonial buildings in
sprawling gardens dot the wide
boulevards of Kampot while the
slow river that cuts through the town
provides a picturesque backdrop and
sets the pace of this sleepy community.
g
GETAWAYS
Lazy days: Kampot’s wide boulevards and quiet side streets provide a pleasurable walking experience
As the sun sets, pleasure seekers
emerge from their hammocks, return
from lazy boat cruises and gather by the
water’s edge to eat, drink and unwind.
Spend enough time in Kampot
and Bokor will soon beckon. The
abandoned hill town overlooking the
Gulf of Thailand is a mere skeleton of
its former glory under colonial rule,
but it is still possible to journey into
the past with a stroll around the old
casino and church.
A journey of a different kind reveals the
salt flats and towering pepper plantations
of Kampot. The most prized of all of
Cambodia’s culinary exports, Kampot
pepper is as significant to Cambodia as
champagne is to France.
“Eco lodges in Koh Kong provide opportunities to explore the
wilds of the jungle through walking tours and boat trips”
Under the steady gaze of Bokor, the
road to Kep provides ample photo
opportunities, with brightly coloured
fishing boats bobbing alongside
vibrant green paddies. A palm-fringed
shoreline guides visitors into Kep,
a former playground for French
colonialists and Cambodian royalty.
Bearing faded testimony to its regal
past, abandoned villas stand in a
dignified silence as they observe the
emergence of a younger generation
of luxury resorts that seem to herald
Kep’s gradual reemergence.
Yet for the waves of weekenders that
wash up in Kep, much of the coastal
town’s allure lies in the degustation
delight of its waters; in particular
its crab.
Menus found at the shaded gazebos
along Kep beach and the wooden
shacks that hug the coastline near the
crab market are shrines to seafood.
For those eager to satiate an
adventurous appetite, however, there
is certainly much more to Kep than
seafood. A multitude of day trip
attractions are available, of which
the most exciting is an excursion
to Kampong Trach Cave, the most
energetic a hike around Kep National
Park and the most relaxing a day or
overnight trip to Rabbit Island.
A short boat ride away, tree-lined
Rabbit Island envelopes visitors in a
back-to-basics refuge. As simple in
structure as it is in design, the island
is home to generator-run $5-per-night
bamboo bungalow huts scattered
along the kilometre stretch of beach.
It is the perfect place to soak up the
afternoon rays and toast the sunset
with a drink.
It is possible – heat and a sense
of adventure permitting – to walk
around the island in as little as two
hours, along a path that variously
fades into jungle, merges with rocky
outcrops and periodically happens
across small empty bays and secluded
sandy enclaves.
Bathing in the waters off
Cambodia’s coast at night presents
an opportunity to play with the
phosphorescence. Awoken by
movement, these green shimmers
of momentary light dance around
swimmers in a mesmerising twirl;
glimmering across the skin with
an exotic energy that complements
the back-to-nature experience of
travelling Cambodia’s 3K’s.
GETAWAYS
arrive in style
Song Saa Private Island is located in the stunning Koh Rong archipelago. The resort
can arrange transfers from Phnom Penh in either a BMW 5 Series, or aboard a
helicopter to Sihanoukville, where a luxury speedboat awaits.
Southern sweethearts
Song Saa IS caMBodIa’S first luxury island resort.
BuT heRe, youR Indulgence can MaKe a dIffeRence
T
moment that
it hits you is difficult to
pinpoint. Perhaps it comes
when the smiling staff
greet you with an ebullient
“Welcome to Song Saa”.
Maybe the feeling arrives the first time
you slide open the patio doors of your
villa to be greeted by the sapphire
perfection of the Gulf of Thailand. Or
it could sink in while you enjoy a glass
of champagne in your private infinity
pool, with the stars a symphony of
light in an otherwise pitch-black sky.
Song Saa Private Island provides
hundreds of potential scenarios that
herald the realisation of finding
paradise, but when it does hit you, it is
a moment to savour.
Situated on two islands in the
unspoilt Koh Rong archipelago, this is
Cambodia’s first high-end island retreat
and it does not take long to feel at
home. On the initial tour of your villa,
it is impossible not to mentally set aside
time for all manner of luxuriating: a
long soak in the huge terrazzo sunken
baths; a few hours lounging on the
circular sofas beside the pool with
nothing but a book and the sun for
company; a healthy breakfast in a bed
so comfortable that it is difficult to
stifle a chuckle upon your first visit.
Each of the resort’s 27 villas provides a
rustic charm without compromising the
overall flavour of unmistakable luxury.
Much of the interior design makes use
of materials such as driftwood found
washed up on the western shores of
he exact
nearby islands, and even the recycled
introduced waste management system
hulls of fishing boats that had sailed
and aquaculture and organic farming
their last voyage. They are joined by
projects. Visits are easily arranged
chenille microfibre robes, a frightfully
with the community team and guests
well-stocked minibar and bathroom
will be treated to a slice of traditional
products by Aesop, in a perfect fusion of Cambodian village life, where lazy
sumptuous sustainability.
dogs lounge in the shade, children dart
The resort’s emphasis on
about in every direction and smiling
conservation is apparent almost
locals cook over open fires.
immediately, when guests are politely
Back on Song Saa, which means
asked not to use products in the
‘sweethearts’ in Khmer, the resort’s
villas’ outdoor showers owing to the
simple ‘Always Included’ policy means
potential damage they could cause to
that everything that passes your lips is
the marine environment below. The
included in the price. It is a good job
Song Saa conservation and community too, for one of this island sanctuary’s
team are involved
greatest pleasures is
in various initiatives
embarking on the
“ The resort’s emphasis culinary journey
that contribute to
on conservation is
the resort’s ‘triple
provided by executive
bottom-line’ business
chef Neil Wager and
apparent almost
plan, which places
his team.
immediately
”
as much importance
Vista restaurant
on the environment
provides mindand the social and economic wellbeing boggling fine-dining creations, while
of the local population as it does on
the more laid back Driftwood bar
financial turnover.
specialises in handmade pizzas,
A marine reserve that extends
such as the tantalising hoi sin
200m around both islands has been
duck creation. ‘Destination dining’
established, and a flora and fauna
offerings are tailored to guests’
study has identified a number of
individual tastes and truly make
indigenous species such as hornbills,
the most of Song Saa’s natural
sea eagles and orchids, all of which
charms – enjoy a gourmet barbecue
are being encouraged by roosting sites
on the beach with sand between
and microhabitats. Just a short hop
your toes, or traverse the wooden
away by fishing boat on the island
footbridge to Koh Bong where a table
of Koh Rong is the local village,
awaits set amid emergent rainforest,
Prek Svay, where 700 inhabitants
your only company a personal waiter
are reaping the rewards of having
and the fireflies that twinkle in the
responsible neighbours via a newly
perfect darkness.
HERITAGE
Temples less
travelled
DAY 2:
It takes Only a few hOurs tO get frOm PhnOm Penh
tO sIem reaP, where yOu share sublIme angkOr
wIth thOusanDs. but wIth three Days tO sPare, the
back rOaDs Of cambODIa’s nOrthwest Offer three
sprawling ruins, lOst tO fOrests, tOurIsts anD tIme
DAY 1:
Phnom Penh » Kampong Thom »
Sambor Prei Kuk
our hours after leaving
Phnom Penh, the bus arrives
in Kampong Thom. Chin
Vothea, the guide and driver,
is waiting. After pointing out
Kampong Thom’s few sites, he
steers out of town.
Faded colonial mansions, a bustling
market, freshly painted beer halls,
then endless fields and red-earth roads
that cut through picturesque villages
of raised wood houses ringed by fruit
trees and palms. Water buffalo eye
the world from stagnant ponds. Rice
paddies shimmer in the midday sun.
A simple lunch is served at the
homestay – a large wooden house in
a garden of fruit trees – before we
enter the ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk:
Cambodia’s first temple city.
Local guide Noun Vuthear leads
the site’s few visitors along a series of
sandy, tree-shaded paths. Dozens of
small temples built of dry-set brick sit
amidst crumbling walled enclosures.
F
Vegetation sprouts from the temples’
sides where mythic beings stare with
carved, stony eyes. The surrounding
forest is alive with song and life.
Vuthear points out circular bomb
crater ponds, sanctuaries where phallic
idols were once bathed, and a slab of
stone where animals and humans were
sacrificed. The site, Vuthear explains,
dates from the 7th century. It was the
capital of Chenla – an ancient Hindu
kingdom that was later absorbed into
the Khmer Empire.
“About 5,000 foreigners come every
year,” Vuthear says. By contrast,
Angkor Wat averages more than 4,000
visitors a day.
After touring several surrounding
villages, we return to the homestay. The
host, Tong Khy, has been his village’s
chief for nearly a decade. Over dinner,
he speaks of growing up in the 1970s,
of civil war and the Khmer Rouge, of
the American bombs that rained almost
every day.
Everyone retires soon after dark. Before
long, hoarse roosters rouse the world to
dawn. Vothea is up and waiting.
Rubble trouble: the collapsed ruins of Beng Mealea
Photos: Daniel Otis
By Daniel Otis
Sambor Prei Kuk » Phnom Dek »
Preah Khan Kampong Svay
In the village of Phnom Dek,
blacksmith Mr Sat forges an iron
machete for about $7. The coffee here
is bold, sweet, delicious.
After driving north on a paved
highway, Vothea heads west along a
dusty dirt road, past cleared forests,
parched farms and small banana
plantations. We lunch in the tiny
village of Ta Seng, then continue to
the abandoned city of Preah Khan
Kampong Svay.
The ruins of Preah Khan lie within a
five-square-kilometre enclosure – the
largest ever built by the ancient Khmers.
Thought to be founded by pre-Angkorian
kings, the city was completed under the
auspices of Jayavarman VII, the prolific
monument-building monarch responsible
for Angkor’s splendid Bayon temple.
Trees grow throughout the sandstone
and laterite complex. At its eastern
end lies an elephant-adorned pyramid,
a lotus-filled reservoir, an island
sanctuary, then Prasat Preah Stung –
an overgrown shrine crowned with
four Bayon-like bodhisattvic faces.
Within the site’s inner walls rests Preah
Khan’s largest temple. Banyan roots
weave in and out of its stonework:
carved gods, dancing apsaras and
finely shaped balustrades. Vegetation
cloaks the half-crumbled site.
Butterflies flit through its collapsed
inner sanctum. Nearby, a mynah
mimics the jungle’s multifarious cries.
Preah Khan’s caretaker says that the
complex receives a visitor every four
to five days. As the sky streaks red, we
string up hammocks under an openwalled hut. Two smiling police officers
– our ‘security’ – arrive with a dinner
of curry soup and rice. While fireflies
dance to the sounds of the surrounding
jungle, everyone drifts to sleep.
g
HERITAGE
DAY 3:
Preah Khan Kampong Svay »
the Royal Road » Beng Mealea » Siem Reap
With Preah Khan obscured in the
morning haze, Vothea takes a reddirt road, driving through forests and
farms, then a vast rubber plantation
recently hacked from the jungle.
On the road, buffaloes pull carts
laden with timber and coal, old men
pedal vegetable-loaded bicycles and
tractor-engine cars haul produce and
families. The houses here are mostly
made of bamboo, thatch and tarpaulin.
Everywhere, people bend in their fields.
The road we’re taking, Vothea says,
was constructed by Jayavarman VII.
He points out ancient hospitals and
rest houses hidden amidst towering
sugar palms, numerous collapsed and
overgrown stone bridges, then towering
Nature’s gardeners: although cows
graze throughout Sambor Prei Kuk,
it’s best to stay on marked paths
Spean Ta Ong – a 77-metre-long 12th
century laterite and sandstone bridge.
Children splash in the cool water
rushing through its base. Hooded
nagas stand guard from the ends of its
balustrades. The ancient masonry easily
supports the weight of Vothea’s car. An
hour later, we arrive at Beng Mealea.
Suryavarman II – the monarch
responsible for building Angkor Wat –
constructed Beng Mealea in the early
12th century. It is one of Cambodia’s
largest temples, but unlike Angkor, it
is in a totally ruinous state. Towers,
walls, and ceilings have collapsed, and
what remains is consumed by a dense
tangle of vines, roots and leaves.
Close to Siem Reap, Beng Mealea
receives more visitors than the other
two sites – between 200 and 500
people per day. It is at its most quiet,
however, once the buses leave in the
afternoon. If you’re able to scramble
over Beng Mealea’s imposing piles of
toppled stone, you can have entire
wings of the complex to yourself.
Fallen serpents guard Beng Mealea’s
entrance. Carved apsaras and gods
rest amidst mounds of fallen blocks. A
local guide points out the safest routes
to traverse. The forested trails ringing
the temple provide peace and a place
for contemplation.
As the sun sets, Vothea drives past
forests and farms. To the north, the
summit of Phnom Kulen – Angkor’s
quarry – becomes obscured by night.
In just over an hour, Vothea is dodging
tourists in Siem Reap. In three days,
we’ve travelled from the dawn of the
Khmer Empire to its modern incarnation:
a bustling world of hotels, bars and
restaurants awash in electric light.
Angkor - Cambodia
The intimate sanctuary of well-being,
your ideal boutique property for discoveries.
The ancient bridge: from ox carts to motorbikes, Spean Ta Ong has been traversed daily for nearly 900 years
Khiri Travel arranged all transportation,
accommodation and meals for this trip. For more
information on this and other itineraries, e-mail
them at [email protected]. Khiri Travel works
in partnership with the Tourist Transportation
Association Kampong Thom (TTAK) – a coalition
of 20 Kampong Thom-based taxi, tuk tuk, and
motorbike drivers.
Photos: Daniel Otis
GETTING THERE
Contact us for Special Offers !
HERITAGE
game of thrones
when researching the all-powerful kings who ruled the country during the angkor
period, you will find all of their names end in ‘varman’, which means ‘protector’.
Renovating Angkor
cambodia’s Jewel is being treated to a gradual facelift to ensure
future generations are able to enjoy its majesty
Temple technicians: Professor Hans Leisen, project director of the German Apsara Conservation Project (left); a conservator restores Angkor Wat
F
9th to the 15th
century, Angkor was the
capital of Cambodia’s
ancient Khmer empire. The
centrepiece of the temple
complex is Angkor Wat, the
largest religious structure on the planet.
Forgotten by the world for centuries,
the temples were ‘rediscovered’ in
the 1860s by French explorer Henri
Mouhot, whose account of the
temples, – Voyage à Siam et dans le
Cambodge – brought the world’s gaze
to the complex once more.
Since being named a Unesco World
Heritage Site in 1992, efforts have been
made to restore the temples to their
former glories. The German Apsara
Conservation Project Cologne has
worked on Angkor Wat since 1995,
rom the
halting decomposition and restoring
numerous stone sculptures, including
some of the temple’s 1,850 depictions
of celestial beings – known as Apsara in
Khmer – as well as Angkor’s infamous
bas reliefs, found in the galleries and
stretching up to 100m in length.
Extensive photographic and written
documentation has been prepared,
alongside hours of painstaking, detailed
mapping. A key aspect of the project’s
work is the training of Cambodian
conservators: The team has grown to
include 17 Cambodian men.
The greatest threat to Cambodia’s
crowning cultural glory is water
absorption and often-dramatic
weathering. The team have been able
to reverse some of these effects to an
incredible degree, working on a scale
of millimetres with micro chisels and
scalpels. It is painstakingly intricate
work but by coating at-risk areas in a
water-resistant acrylic resin, Angkor is
on target to last another millennium,
allowing the adventurous tourists of the
year 3013 to bask in ancient glories.
They will likely be asking the same
question that baffles tourists today:
How were these incredible, colossal
monuments built in a time before
cranes and other construction hardware
that we now take for granted?
That they will get the chance to
witness one of the world’s most striking
archaeological sites is testament to both
the ancient god-kings who oversaw
the unfathomable projects and the
recent efforts of international and local
conservationists.
HERITAGE
SILK ROUTE
To discover how Cambodia's famous yellow silk is cultivated, prepared and weaved, head to
the angkor silk Farm, which offers free guided tours of the intricate process of silk making
An ancient art
Reawakening traditional crafts in siem Reap
A
“Using primarily traditional techniques, artisans chip away
at stone to replicate classic Angkor-era art”
breaks
the concentration of a
group of female painters
huddled over their
artwork. A flurry of hand
movements, too quick
for the untrained eye to understand,
signals that an artist needs help. The
dexterous deaf woman is working on
a contemporary take on a traditional
Khmer piece and wants the advice of
her supervisor, for the revival of ancient
art forms on silk is no easy feat.
Living in a silent world, 22-year-old
Mit Kimran is one of 900 artisans, and
one of 45 disabled artisans, employed by
Artisans Angkor, also known as Artisans
d'Angkor, to preserve traditional Khmer
skills in silk making, stone and wood
carving, lacquering and painting.
With 42 workshops, Artisans Angkor is
the largest employer in Siem Reap and is
renowned for replicating classic Angkorera art. As if to prove this point, huge
stone carvings pepper the lush grounds
of the company’s main show room – a
massive complex a few kilometres from
Angkor Wat that welcomes visitors to
tour its onsite workshops.
From the silence of silk painting to
the cacophony of silver-plating, the
sights and sounds of the tour – which
can be conducted in Chinese, English,
French, Japanese, Khmer, Korean or
Spanish – provide artisans with an
opportunity to show off their skills and
tourists with the occasion to marvel
at the dexterity of these craftsmen and
women. Using primarily traditional
techniques, with a little help from the
technological advances of the past
900 years, artisans chip away at stone
silent language
and wood to produce Buddhas, lingas
and busts of Jayarvarman VII – the
Angkorian king behind the picturesque
temples of Ta Prohm and Bayon –
among other things.
Their skill is not only evident inside
the workshops. The most talented of
these artisans have been commissioned
to replace bas-relief carvings at Kbal
Spean archaeological site, to create
a monumental Angkor Wat-inspired
43-metre-long bas-relief at Amansara –
one of Cambodia’s most exclusive hotels
– and to carve a five-metre-high Buddha
in Battambang.
While Artisans Angkor is known
for replicating the ancient, traditional
works do not have a monopoly on
its creations. Embracing pop trends,
artisans have fused contemporary art
with culture, utilising vivid colours to
bring mythical creatures such as Rahu –
a Hindu character who ate the moon –
to life on vibrant lacquer plates. A nose
around Artisans Angkor’s expansive
shop, home to more than one thousand
handmade items, will reveal beautiful
home furnishings, silk clothing and
accessories that embrace Cambodia’s
heritage with a 21st century twist.
Whether it is a large classical
Angkorian silk wall hanging, a
lacquer plate or a stone statue, at
Artisans Angkor there is something
for everyone who wants to take a
little bit of Cambodia home.
f Siem Reap main showroom and workshops,
open daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm
WILDLIFE
WILDLIFE
pack your trunk
The Elephant Valley Project in Mondulkiri province gives sanctuary to mistreated elephants and offers
a fantastic chance for visitors to learn about, and get up close with, these magnificent creatures.
Alive and kicking
caMbodia offErs a naTurE loVEr’s bounTy. MEET soME of
ThE kingdoM’s MosT fascinating flora and fauna
C
Grey matter: elephants have a long and glorious history in Cambodia
Photos: Jeremy Holden (1)
By Jeremy holden
ambodia’s turbulent history
significantly retarded
scientific investigation
into the wildlife of the
kingdom. As a result, it is
only in the last decade that
many of the more remote areas have
been open to research. Due to its small
size and rounded shape, Cambodia
shows a lower biological diversity than
its neighbouring countries, but in recent
years a flurry of newly discovered
species has shown that it has a lot
to offer in terms of wildlife. Large
mammals such as elephants, gaurs and
leopards remain in forested enclaves,
while strange birds like the Giant Ibis
are likely only to be seen here. Many
other forms, such as a host of recently
described species of snakes, frogs and
plants, are endemic to Cambodia and
can be seen nowhere else. Travel to the
country’s more remote areas can be
an adventure in itself and the unique
wildlife experiences on offer make such
trips even more rewarding.
elephants have almost been forgotten.
There are no longer many domesticated
elephants, and the last street elephant
in Phnom Penh – a popular, if illadvised, attraction at Wat Phnom
– has now retired. Wild elephants are
disappearing, too. Experts estimate
that there are between 400 and 600
wild elephants left in the Kingdom.
Their future is shadowed by rapid
land development in the supposedly
protected forests in which they live.
AsiAn ElEphAnt (ElEphas maximus)
In Asia, elephants have a long, shared
history with humans. Unlike their
African cousins, Asian elephants have
accepted a domestic role. The temples
of Angkor attest to this fact, with many
images of these saintly beasts adorning
the temple walls. During the Angkorian
period elephants were status symbols, a
means of travel and also living tanks in
times of war. In present day Cambodia,
Found only in the more remote corners
of Cambodia, the largest populations
are present in the Greater Cardamom
Mountains to the southwest and in the
eastern plains of the northern areas.
Spotting wild elephants in Cambodia
has always been a challenge, but recent
large-scale developments in Botum
Sakor National Park have displaced
some individual elephants that are now
regularly encountered along Highway
Jurassic lark: the giant ibis measures over a metre
48 and in its surrounding villages.
But all is not lost. Conservationists
are working hard to ensure that
elephants have a future in Cambodia.
In 2012 one Cambodian national won
a prestigious international award for
his work in protecting and promoting
a greater understanding about these
extraordinary animals. The Angkorian
Kingdom owed much to elephants – let
us not forget that debt.
GiAnt ibis (ThaumaTibis giganTEus)
This vaguely prehistoric-looking bird
is an oddity. Bare-faced with crimson
eyes, red legs and dark plumage
brushed with dusty grey and a gloss
of green, it evokes a world before
man. Weighing in at four kilograms
and measuring over a metre, it is
the largest of the Ibises: elegant,
curved-billed birds much respected
by the Egyptian pharaohs. It is also
something of a mystery bird. While
other members of the ibis family
migrate or have a wide distribution,
the giant ibis is restricted to a small
area of Indochina. Although recorded
rarely in adjacent areas of Vietnam
and occasionally in southern Laos,
the majority of the estimated 100
breeding pairs remaining are found
g
Information on seeing the Giant Ibis can be
found here: samveasna.org
WILDLIFE
‘The diminutive Samkos bush frog, is remarkable for having
green blood – a Dr Spock of the frog world’
only in Cambodia. Due to this
small population size and restricted
range, it is now considered critically
endangered. A bird of open forestedge grasslands, swamps and seasonal
pools, scientists have only recently
learned about its ecology. Studies have
shown that it eats mostly frogs and
eels, which it catches with its long bill.
A number of conservation initiatives
are working to secure the future of the
giant ibis. Tourists can contribute to
such efforts by visiting ibis locations
in Tmatboey and Prey Veng in
northern Cambodia. At Tmatboey,
the ecotourism committee receives a
conservation fee from visitors to the
site. This money is used to pay local
people to locate and protect nests,
ensuring that the birds are always
available for tourists.
is the diminutive Samkos bush frog.
So far restricted to a small area in the
Cardamom Mountains, it is remarkable
for having green blood – a Dr. Spock
of the frog world. This phenomenon
is caused by biliverdin, or green bile –
usually a waste product processed by
the liver – being pumped back into the
blood. Perhaps this adaptation gives the
frogs greater camouflage, or causes them
to taste unpleasant. The reasons for this
are unclear, but another possibility has
recently come to light. Studies on the
uses of biliverdin have found that far
from being a waste product, the bile
Little wonder: the Samkos bush frog can be found only in the Cardamom Mountains
Photos: Jeremy Holden (3)
Starving stems: the carnivorous Bokor pitcher plant likes to feast on insects
Bokor pitcher plant
(NEpENthEs bokorENsIs)
Plants are seldom credited with being
carnivorous, but in Cambodia there
are three separate families of plants
that survive by eating insects, with
each evolving a different strategy. The
bladderworts possess tiny bubbles
on their roots that have a lower
air pressure inside. When an insect
disturbs the bubble it is sucked inside
and devoured. Sundews rely on
sticky tentacles to entrap wandering
insects, which are then engulfed and
consumed. But the most spectacular
carnivorous plants in Cambodia
are undoubtedly the pitcher plants,
or Nepenthes. These start life as
small rosettes, but develop into
long vines that drape themselves
over surrounding vegetation. Each
of these vines will have a dozen or
more pitchers waiting to trap insects.
The pitchers are actually modified
leaves containing a digestive fluid. A
highly slippery rim means any insects
investigating the pitcher are likely
to fall in. The digestive juices soon
reduce it to a nutritious soup that the
plant absorbs. Supplementing their
nutrient intake with insect protein
allows these plants to flourish in
otherwise impoverished environments,
such as mountainous areas where the
soil is often shallow and depauperate.
One example is Bokor Mountain in
southern Cambodia, which is home
to the country’s largest and most
extravagant pitcher plant, Nepenthes
bokorensis. This recently described
species can be seen near the waterfall
on Bokor peak, although careless
development of the area has already
destroyed a number of populations
of the amazing plant. See it while
you still can.
SamkoS BuSh Frog
(Chiromantis samkosensis)
Across the planet, amphibians are in
decline, due to either the effects of
climate change, the spread of a fatal
fungal disease that is wiping out whole
populations. In Cambodia, scientists
have seen the opposite phenomena.
Rather than a slow decline in frog
diversity, the discovery of new species
has increased the known number of frogs
in the kingdom. Since the turn of the
new millennium, there have been almost
a dozen new frog species described
in Cambodia. One unusual example
is an effective antioxidant that helps
to fight infection. Malaria contraction
rates are far lower in people that
have a high level of biliverdin in their
blood. Additionally, biliverdin has been
shown to inhibit the ability of HIV
to enter cells. Perhaps this little frog
is on to something and can teach us
a thing or two.
f JEREMY HOLDEN is a photographer and
camera trapping specialist who has worked
with the conservation NGO Fauna & Flora
International in the rainforests of Southeast
Asia since 1995.
ART
colour
and
creation
A new generAtion of Artists Are reveAling Cambodia’s Creative side
By Michelle Vachon Photography by Nicolas Axelrod
O
Khao Touch in her studio in Battambang. The 30-year-old artist, who often
creates three-dimensional paintings, has developed a following among Western
and Cambodian art enthusiasts.
Photo: Xxxxxxxx, Xxxxxxxx
ver the past five years,
a wind of extraordinary
creativity has swept the
country, producing a
vibrant art scene varied
in style and media. Artists
such as Sopheap Pich, Srey Bandol, Em
Riem and Meas Sokhorn, as well as
Oeur Sokuntevy and Khvay Samnang,
feature regularly at international art
events. A few of them – such as Leang
Seckon and Chhim Sothy – even have
collectors in Europe, Asia and the
United States. Some photographers have
also reached the world stage, with the
dean of art photography Mak Remissa
being joined by Sovan Philong and
Kim Hak, who has exhibited in France,
Canada, England and Singapore.
Having broken free from the shackles
of conformity, which saw Cambodian
artists emulating their teachers’ styles and
technique through a sense of obligation,
today artists are more comfortable with
experimentation, giving flight to their
imaginations. Artists such as Thang
Sothea of Phnom Penh’s Top Art Gallery
are constantly reinventing themselves,
bringing a freshness and air of excitement
to new shows.
Taking stock of Cambodia’s
millennium-old art tradition, artists
in the kingdom are inventing
contemporary styles unlike those in the
West or other Asian countries.
“Once you start exploring the art
scene, you can see how dedicated
the artists are to developing a
contemporary voice that’s relevant
to their own culture as well as to
the global conversation,” said Dana
Langlois of Phnom Penh's Java Café
and Gallery, which has launched
numerous artists over the last decade.
Cambodian artists are building such
a strong and unique identity that art
scholars at Western universities are
beginning to take notice, and a tour of
the country’s leading galleries will show
you why.
Alongside Java Café, Meta House is
an art house stalwart in Phnom Penh.
The audio-visual centre promotes
a weekly cultural programme that
includes exhibitions and screenings,
which nurture young talent, while
g
ART
Along with Sopheap Pich, Leang Seckon is one of Cambodia’s most
renowned artists – both at home and overseas. His plans for 2013 include
exhibitions in Shanghai, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and New York City.
A maverick who defies
conventions, Meas Sokhorn
alternates between painting
and sculpture, using anything
from acrylic paint to barbed
wire. His work is featured at the
Singapore Art Museum and in
several private collections.
Romeet Gallery on Street 178 presents
Battambang’s bold and brilliant artists.
Close by on Street 184 is the
Institut Francais which plays the
role of contemporary art museum,
Loeum Lorn captures the metamorphosis of
melting ice when he applies paint to an ice block
then uses archival inks to turn these images
into paintings.
an exhibition at the institute being a
recognition of an artist’s standing.
Also on Street 184, the Plantation
Resort and Spa holds exhibitions in its
vast lobby. The hotel group runs The
240 Gallery on Street 240 and hosts
exhibitions at the restaurant and bar
Chinese House.
Adding to the capital’s collection of
galleries is Sa Sa Bassac on Sothearos
boulevard that exhibits artists and
photographers such as Yim Maline and
Vuth Lyno, and The Insider Gallery at
the Hotel InterContinental featuring
both established artists and promising
art students.
On Street 178 near the National
Museum, the Royal University of Fine
Art’s (Rufa) gallery is worth a visit,
as is Hen Sophal’s art space, where he
displays touristy Angkor scenes at the
front, keeping his true contemporary
works at the back. The Reyum Institute
gallery next door and Botanico cafe
nearby on Street 19 display artists’
design objects on the ground floor and
hold exhibitions upstairs.
Siem Reap is a city of designers
rather than artists, says Lim Muy
Theam – known as Theam – one of
the few artists living in that city who
paints huge murals and creates lacquer
decorative objects.
Home to the temples of Angkor,
temple town is the country’s tourism
capital, and its artists and artisans tend
to focus on designs that will appeal to
foreign visitors. Still, there are several
art galleries featuring works of Phnom
Penh- and Battambang-based artists, as
well as foreign artists.
The McDermott Gallery features
the striking photographs of American
photographer John McDermott who
developed an infrared technique to
create eerie images of Angkor. The
gallery also presents the work of other
photographers, and exhibits paintings
and photos at its Old Market venue.
Until Hotel de la Paix shut down for
renovation in July 2012, its exhibition
hall had been Siem Reap’s leading gallery,
with British sculptor Sasha Constable as
curator. The hotel – to be renamed the
g
ART
Tor Vutha, who has taught a generation of artists enrolled
at Phare Ponleu Selpak’s art school to dare to be different,
uses metal wire and polished wood to sculpt.
check out the Art Deli, a meeting place
for local designers and artists.
Battambang probably has the
country’s largest population of young
visual artists. They are not afraid
to take risks with techniques and
themes, boldly addressing social
issues. They have studied at Phare
Ponleu Selpak, exhibited abroad and
sold to foreign collectors. Artists Srey
Bandol and Tor Vutha are ones to
look out for.
In 2011, the absence of a venue in
Battambang led artists to pool their
resources and set up Sammaki, an
artists’ centre with an exhibition space.
At the same time, artist Mao Soviet
opened his own gallery, Make Maek
Art Space, to feature both Cambodian
and foreign artists. In late 2012, art
Artist Lim Muy Theam, known as Theam, uses
acrylic to paint large scenes based on his memories
of Cambodia’s past and reflections of the country’s
present. Once completed, his assistants at his
Siem Reap studio apply several coats of lacquer
onto each work.
Park Hyatt Siem Reap – has opened the
Cafe de la Paix, where Sasha continues to
hold exhibitions during renovation.
The Siem Reap Angkor Hospital for
Children – a charitable organisation
supported by Friends Without a Border –
may seem an unlikely venue for art, but
“Battambang artists are
not afraid to take risks with
techniques and themes”
facilitator Darren Swallow and Mao,
the driving force behind Sammaki,
opened Jewel in the Lotus, a multimedia
centre with exhibition rooms.
Every first Friday of the month, the
artists organise an Art Walk on the
Bina Hanley, curator of the McDermott
galleries, regularly coordinates exhibitions street with children’s games, films and
special events for the local community
in the hospital’s Friends Centre.
Creative complex 1961 acts as both an and visitors.
One activity they plan to make an
art house and a hotel, with each of its
eight rooms dedicated to a different era. annual event is the Art Explo festival.
In November 2011, the event began
While in the neighbourhood, be sure to
Hong Yi Travel Service Co., Ltd.
www.hongyi.com.tw
# 112 E/E , Street: 173,
Toul SvayPrey l, Khan Chankamorn,
Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23-210 461 / 023 218 299
Fax: (855) 23-210 463
Email: [email protected]
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Hote

with an evening of art happenings in
a public park in Battambang before
the artists took to the road to cycle
to Siem Reap. Along the way, they
stopped to hold arts sessions in
villages, and ended with several days
of activities in Siem Reap. Organised
by the Battambang artists, Siem
Reap’s Art Deli and 1961 hotel, it
involves Cambodian and foreign
artists and should now take place
every January. In September don’t
miss Our City that involves most art
organisations and venues in Phnom
Penh. In November and December
respectively, be sure to catch the
Angkor Photo Festival in Siem Reap
and PhnomPenhPhoto: two citywide
festivals in which some of Cambodia’s
and the world’s most prominent
photographers are featured.
LITERATURE
where to buy
All of these titles are available at Monument Books, widely regarded as
Cambodia’s best bookshop, and all other good booksellers.
Reader’s
digest
add greater depth to your cambodia
visit with our top tips for the best
new books about the kingdom
sTrolling around phnom penh
auThor: jean-miChel filippi
publisher: Kam-ediTions, 2012 (pb)
Not intended as an exhaustive guidebook to
the city and avoiding the more obvious tourist
landmarks, this book takes seven enjoyable
walking itineraries around the fast-changing
capital detailing history, politics and architecture
and interweaving the author’s own colourful and
idiosyncratic observations. Available in both
English and French editions.
in The shadow of The banyan
auThor: vaddey raTner
publisher: simon & sChusTer uK, 2012 (pb)
Set during the Khmer Rouge’s rise to power
this is storytelling at its most lyrical. An
‘editor’s choice’ in the New York Times Book
Review: “How is it that so much of this bleak
novel is full of beauty, even joy? . . . What is
remarkable, and honorable, here is the absence
of anger, and the capacity – seemingly infinite –
for empathy.”
The map of losT memories
auThor: Kim fay
publisher: hodder & sToughTon, 2012 (pb)
An exciting, evocative archaeological thriller,
this debut novel is set in the 1920s between
Shanghai and Saigon with the dénouement
in Cambodia. Notable for its mainly female
protagonists and atmospheric descriptions,
it manages to include larger themes like the
place of women in a man’s world, the future of
Cambodia’s people and the theft of antiquities.
Cambodia’s
Top Tables
phoTographer: sam jam
auThors: Clive graham-ranger wiTh luu meng
publisher: 360° media, 2012 (pb)
Graham-Ranger, who writes regularly about life in Cambodia,
and Luu Meng, celebrity head chef at Malis – one of Cambodia’s
finest restaurants – spotlight the variety of high quality eateries
in the kingdom. This book is a lavish tribute to the country’s top
chefs and features 52 of their mouthwatering recipes.
The mysTeries of angKor waT: exploring
Cambodia’s anCienT Temple
auThor: riChard sobol
publisher: CandlewiCK, 2011 (hb)
Aimed at children between the ages of seven and 11, photographer
Sobol takes a unique approach to
engaging his audience by weaving
in the story of the local children who
guide him through the history of
Angkor Wat and the ancient culture
that built the mighty temple. This
book is a satisfying introduction for
all the family.
Facing the torturer: inside the Mind oF a
War criMinal
author: Francois Bizot
PuBlisher: rider Books, 2012 (PB)
More than a sequel to the bestselling
The Gate – where the relationship with his
Khmer Rouge interrogator, Comrade Duch,
saved his life – this book relates Bizot’s return
to give evidence at Duch’s war crimes trial.
It is a powerful philosophical meditation
on the nature of humanity, inhumanity and
personal responsibility.
enchanting caMBodia
author: Mick shiPPen
PuBlisher: John BeauFoy PuBlishing, 2011 (PB)
An enormously successful Cambodia
volume in the Enchanting Asia series
(Laos, Myanmar and Thailand are the other
titles), this is a surprisingly good quality
introduction to the country. The photography
is fresh and vibrant and the text informative
without being too detailed – quite
conventional, but it sells like hotcakes!
Facing the khMer rouge: a caMBodian Journey
author: ronnie yiMsut
PuBlisher: rutgers university Press, 2011 (PB)
There are many Khmer Rouge ‘misery’ memoirs,
but Yimsut’s is one of the better written and
comes from his perspective as a 15-year-old
boy from the countryside, rather than someone
forced out of the city. Painful and moving, this
is a tribute to one man’s strength, resilience
and refusal to believe in or accept the
inhumanity of man.
all the Missing souls: a Personal history
oF the War criMes triBunals
author: david scheFFer
PuBlisher: Princeton university Press,
2011 (hB)
David Scheffer has had a long association
with Cambodia stretching back to well before
he became instrumental in setting up the
International Criminal Court in the 1990s.
His autobiography is a fascinating insight
into the politics – and frustrations – of
international justice.
HIGHLIGHTS 2013
A selectioN of some of cAmbodiA’s best, loudest ANd most
uNusuAl eveNts not to be missed while iN the KiNgdom
A new stArt
April
Khmer New Year will grind cities to
a halt, while a trip to the provinces
is rewarded by impromptu parties
and gangs of mischievious youths
loitering on roadsides, waiting
to hurl water bombs and talcum
powder at passersby.
seize the stAge
mAy
with three days of guitar riffs,
growling voices and non-stop
attitude, Penhstock is an indie rock
out like no other in the kingdom.
starting with five bands in 2010,
the annual rock‘n’roll music festival
ballooned to 30 bands last year, with
organisers tipping this number to
rise to 40 or 50 in coming years as
the local rock scene finds its voice.
while cartoon emo and slit’n six
led the cambodian pack last year,
the stage at sharky’s showcases all
manner of nationalities and styles
over three raucous nights.
sharkysofcambodia.com
NIGHT LIGHT
Siem Reap’s
giant puppet
parade in
February is
the city’s most
colourful and
vibrant annual
procession. A
community arts
project, it gives
underprivileged
children the
opportunity to
design and create
huge, brightly
coloured effigies
of animals and
faces before
parading them
through the
streets of Siem
Reap.
celebrating a city
snap happy
April
once a year, swimmers don their
suits and adjust their goggles as
they brace themselves for the
muddy waters of the mekong in the
mekong River swim. An event that
is growing in popularity every year,
the swim takes intrepid adventurers
across a 600m-stretch of Asia’s
seventh longest river.
mekongriverswim.blogspot.com
September
It was the largest festival in
Cambodia last year, attracting
more than 100 contributors, and
it is tipped to be even bigger in
2013. Our City is the country’s first
festival to bring together creatives in
cities across the kingdom to focus
on urbanism and its influence on
contemporary culture.
ourcityfestival.org
November/December
The first photo festival
in Southeast Asia, the
Angkor Photo Festival
has become a staple
for photographers and
photography enthusiasts
from across the region.
Launched in 2005, the
festival puts emerging
regional photographers
into focus, providing a
platform for their work
to be exhibited and appreciated by an international audience. Followed hot on its heels by
PhotoPhnomPenh, these two months provide a great opportunity to rub shoulders with some
regional photography greats and will-be-greats.
angkorphotofestival.wordpress.com, ccf-cambodge.org
OKtOberFest
wet, wet, wet
october
Lederhosen-clad, beer-guzzling
guests get their Bavarian groove
on in Phnom Penh at Oktoberfest,
when a little slice of Germany makes
its way to the kingdom. Merriment
and silliness is the order of the day,
as a band especially flown in from
Germany will ensure the oompah
will keep you on your feetah.
oktoberfest-cambodia.com
November
hungry ghosts And
speedy buffAloes
September/ OctOber
each year, millions of cambodians
flock to pagodas dotted across the
country to present offerings such
as food and money to ease the
suffering of dead relatives, and
other spirits, who return to roam
the earth during this 15-day period
known as the festival of the dead,
or P’chum ben. while most return
home once the spirits’ appetites
have been satiated, residents
in vihear suor village, in Kandal
Province, wrap up this period
slightly differently. described as the
formula 1 of the animal world, the
annual water buffalo race draws
hundreds of spectators to watch
riders and their animals charge
down the racing field in a colourful
display of courage and skill.
Photos: Pring Samrang, Daniele Mattioli, Sacha Goldberger/Angkor Photo Festival
Save the date
river rAcing
The highlight of the Cambodian
social calendar, the three-day Water
Festival is the kingdom’s largest
celebration. Colourful, loud and
certainly not short on enthusiasm,
the festival, also known as Bon
Om Tuk, signals the end of the wet
season and the natural reversal of
flow between the Tonle Sap and the
Mekong River.
GLAMAZON
Phnom Penh's
annual Glamazon
Hair Show in
April is a feast of
extravagance and
an ode to fashion
brilliance.
Check out The
Dollhouse
Cambodia
on Facebook
for more
information.
run the ruins
December
Whether the architects of Angkor
Wat would’ve blinked an eye if
hundreds of garish nylon- and
latex-clad visitors suddenly
ran, walked or cycled past their
homage to Buddha is impossible
to know. But if that sounds like
a vision of sweat-stained ‘beauty’
that you’re keen to be a part of,
then be sure to sign up early
to get a place in the annual
Angkor International Half
Marathon and the Angkor
Wat Bike Race and Ride.
angkormarathon.org
villagefocus.org
phnoM penh
Sleep
The Governor’s house
+855 (0)23 987 025
governorshouse.net
Manor house
+855 (0)23 992 566
manorhousecambodia.com
The PlanTaTion
+855 (0)23 215 151
theplantation.asia
raffles hoTel le royal
+855 (0)23 981 888
raffles.com
sofiTel PhnoM Penh
PhokeeThra
+855 (0)23 999 200
sofitel.com
villa koh Dach GuesThouse
villakohdach.free.fr
le villa ParaDiso
+855 (0)23 213 720
thevillaparadiso.com
eat
Bloom Cakes
+855 (0)77 757 500
bloomcreations.org
Brown Coffee
+855 (0)92 222 567
thebrowncoffee.com
DeCo
+855 (0)17 577 327
decophnompenh.com
emperors of China
+855 (0)23 637 6663
emperorschina.com
The empire
the-empire.org
irina russian resTauranT
+855 (0)12 833 524
irinacambodia.com
khmer BBQ parTy BuffeT
Corner Monivong Boulevard
& Street 86
k’nyay
+855 (0)23 225 225
knyay.com
malis
+855 (0)23 221 022
malis-restaurant.com
la resiDenCe
+855 (0)23 224 582
la-residence-restaurant.com
romDeng
+855 (0)92 219 565
mithsamlanh.org
samBa Brazilian sTeakhouse
+855 (0)23 222 599
Topaz
+855 (0)23 221 622
topaz-restaurant.com
yumi
theyumi.com
Drink
Blue chilli Bar (PhnoM Penh)
+855 (0)12 566 353
Bouchon Wine Bar
+855 (0)77 881 103
The BunGaloWs
+855 (0)77 555 447
chinese house
+855 (0)23 991 514
chinesehouse.asia
elePhanT Bar
+855 (0)23 981 888
raffles.com
equinox
+855 (0)23 676 7593
equinox-cambodia.com
PonToon
pontoonclub.com
rainBoW Bar
+855 (0)97 741 4187
sharky’s Bar anD resTauranT
+855 (0)12 228 045
sharkysofcambodia.com
explore
BoDia sPa
+855 (0)23 226 199
bodia-spa.com
BoPhana auDiovisual
resource cenTre
+855 (0)23 992 174
bophana.org
caMBoDia fashion Week
cambodiafashionweek.com
caMBoDia Golf anD counTry
cluB
+855 (0)12 892 977
cambodiagolf.net
caMBoDia PriDe Week
phnompenhpride.blogspot.com
frizz (cookinG class)
+855 (0)12 524 801
cambodia-cooking-class.com
la Galerie x-eM
+855 (0)23 722 252
GianT iBis Bus
+855 (0)23 999 333
giantibis.com
GranD PhnoM Penh Golf cluB
+855 (0)23 690 0777
grandphnompenhgolf.com
hen soPhal Gallery
+855 (0)12 997 771
hoTel inTerconTinenTal (The
insiDer Gallery)
+855 (0)23 424 888
ichotelsgroup.com
insTiTuT francais
+855 (0)23 213 124
institutfrancais-cambodge.com
Java cafe anD Gallery
+855 (0)23 987 420
javacafeandgallery.com
khMer archiTecTure Tours
ka-tours.org
MekonG river sWiM
mekongriverswim.blogspot.com
MeTa house
+855 (0)10 312 333
meta-house.com
naGaWorlD hoTel anD casino
+855 (0)23 228 822
nagaworld.com
okToBerfesT
oktoberfest-cambodia.com
our ciTy
ourcityfestival.org
PaDDy’s fiGhT cluB
+855 (0)12 217 877
paddysgym.com
PenhsTock
(see Sharky’s in 'Drink')
reyuM insTiTuTe of arTs anD
culTure
reyum.org
roMeeT Gallery
+855 (0)92 953 567
romeet.com
royal caMBoDian liMousine
service
+855 (0)77 218 808
royallimousine.com.kh
royal universiTy of fine arTs
+855 (0)11 906 259
sa sa Bassac
+855 (0)17 774 864
sasabassac.com
sovanna PhuM
shadow-puppets.org
sunseT cockTail cruise
+855 (0)12 848 802
kanikaboat.com
TiGre De PaPier
+855 (0)12 265 811
letigredepapier.com
ToP arT Gallery
+855 (0)12 211 193
Shop
aMBre
+855 (0)23 217 935
romydaketh.net
colorBlinD
+855 (0)78 777 680
colorblind.asia
The Dollhouse
+855 (0)16 620 907
thedollhousecambodia.com
eric raisina
+855 (0)63 963 208
ericraisina.com
firsT floor
+855 (0)23 218 353
GarDen of Desire
+855 (0)12 319 116
gardenofdesire-asia.com
PaPerDolls
+855 (0)16 620 908
vinTaGe shoP
+855 (0)17 795 159
WaTerlily
+855 (0)23 986 241
waterlilybychristinegauthier.com
SieM reap
Sleep
aMansara
+855 (0)63 760 333
amanresorts.com/amansara
GolDen Banana BeD &
BreakfasT
+855 (0)12 654 638
goldenbanana.info
heriTaGe suiTes
+855 (0)63 969 100
Men’s resorT anD sPa
+855 (0)89 787 600
mens-resort.com
navuTu DreaMs
+855 (0)63 688 0607
navutudreams.com
shinTa Mani
+855 (0)63 761 998
shintamani.com
sofiTel anGkor PhokeeThra
+855 (0)63 964 600
sofitel.com
vicToria anGkor resorT & sPa
+855 (0)63 760 428
victoriahotels.asia
eat
aBacus GarDen resTauranT
+855 (0)12 644 286
cafeabacus.com
arT Deli
artdeli.org
+855 (0)78 342 394
cafe De la Paix
+855 (0)63 966 008
cuisine WaT DaMnak
+855 (0)63 965 491
cuisinewatdamnak.com
il forno
+855 (0)78 208 174
haven
+855 (0)78 342 404
havencambodia.com
Jo To Go
+855 (0)92 532 640
theglobalchild.org
PyonGyanG resTauranT
+855 (0)16 680 831
National Road 6
The Touich
+855 (0)92 808 040
the-touich-restaurant-bar.blogspot.co.uk
viroTh’s resTauranT
+855 (0)12 826 346
viroth-hotel.com
Drink
anGkor WhaT?
+855 (0)12 490 755
asana
+855 (0)92 987 801
asana-cambodia.com
fcc
+855 (0)63 760 283
fcccambodia.com
linGa Bar
+855 (0)12 246 912
lingabar.com
Miss WonG
+855 (0)92 428 332
nesT anGkor
+855 (0)63 966 381
nestangkor.com
The sTaTion Wine Bar
+855 (0)97 850 4043
thestationwinebarsiemreap.com
x Bar
+855 (0)97 304 2827
xbar.asia
explore
1961
+855 (0)15 378 088
the1961.com
aMansara sPa
+855 (0)63 760 333
amanresorts.com/amansara
anGkor Golf resorT
+855 (0)63 767 689
angkor-golf.com
anGkor PhoTo fesTival
angkor-photo.com
anGkor silk farM
+855 (0)63 555 5768
artisansdangkor.com
anGkor WaT Bike race
villagefocus.org/bike
anGkor WaT inTernaTional
half MaraThon
angkormarathon.org
arTisans of anGkor
+855 (0)63 963 330
artisansdangkor.com
BanTeay srey BuTTerfly cenTre
+855 (0)97 852 7852
angkorbutterfly.com
BoDia sPa
+855 (0)63 761 593
bodia-spa.com
franGiPani sPa
+855 (0)63 964 391
frangipanisiemreap.com
The GianT PuPPeT ProJecT
+855 (0)92 219 647
giantpuppetproject.com
hariharalaya reTreaT cenTre
+855 (0)88 932 9556
hariharalaya.com
heriTaGe aDvenTures
+855 (0)63 969 100
heritage-adventures.com
The McDerMoTT Gallery
+855 (0)12 274 274
mcdermottgallery.com
PhokeeThra counTry club
+855 (0)63 964 600
phokeethragolf.com
SaM VeaSna cenTre
+855 (0)63 963 710
samveasna.org
Sky VenTure MicrofliGhT
TourS
skyventure.org
SMile of anGkor
+855 (0)97 451 1717
smileofangkor.com
tHe SoUtH
Sleep
lazy beach (koh ronG)
cafe SuShi (SihanoukVille)
+855 (0)16 214 211
lazybeachcambodia.com
+855 (0)34 934 800
cafesushizen.com
naTaya rounDhouSe coral bay
reSorT (kaMPoT)
Ta eou (kaMPoT)
Sleep
+855 (0)33 932 422
baTTaMbanG reSorT
Drink
+855 (0)12 510 100
battambangresort.com
+855 (0)33 690 2011
natayaresort.com
rainboW eco loDGe (koh konG)
rainbowlodgecambodia.com
SecreT GarDen (SihanoukVille)
+855 (0)97 649 5131
secretgardenotres.com
knai banG chaTT (keP)
+855 (0)78 888 557
knaibangchatt.com
+855 (0)53 648 8588
naTure loDGe (MonDulkiri)
elePhanT Valley ProjecT
(MonDulkiri)
+855 (0)12 230 272
naturelodgecambodia.com
+855 (0)99 696 041
elephantvalleyproject.org
rajabori VillaS (koh TronG)
Gibbon SPoTTinG caMboDia
(raTanakiri)
+855 (0)12 770 150
rajabori-kratie.com
+855 (0)34 935 999
sokhahotels.com
rikiTikiTaVi (kaMPoT)
+855 (0)12 235 102
rikitikitavi-kampot.com
+855 (0)12 770 650
ratanakiri-lodge.com
+855 (0)23 210 271
khiri.com
The SailinG club aT knai banG
chaTT (keP)
la Villa (baTTaMbanG)
Make Maek (baTTaMbanG)
+855 (0)17 411 880
lavilla-battambang.net
+855 (0)17 946 108
makemaek.org
eat & Drink
Phare Ponleu SelPak
(baTTaMbanG)
chi PhaT
WhiTe roSe reSTauranT
(baTTaMbanG)
+855 (0)53 952 424
phareps.org
+855 (0)92 720 925
ecoadventurecambodia.com
+855 (0)12 536 500
whiterosebattambang.com
SaMMaki (baTTaMbanG)
The DiVe ShoP (SihanoukVille)
balcony bar (baTTaMbanG)
+855 (0)34 933 664
diveshopcambodia.com
+855 (0)12 437 421
SonG Saa PriVaTe iSlanD
(SihanoukVille)
+855 (0)23 686 0360
songsaa.com
VeranDa naTural reSorT (keP)
Villa roMonea (keP)
jasminevalley.com
baTTaMbanG inTernaTional
ViPaSSana cenTre
TerreS rouGeS loDGe
(raTanakiri)
+855 (0)23 217 374
ecolodges.asia
jaSMine Valley (keP)
koh konG bay hoTel
+855 (0)16 855 888
asia-adventures.com
+855 (0)77 555 590
kohkongbay.com
veranda-resort.com
independencehotel.net
+855 (0)34 934 585
cheers-cambodia.com
aSia aDVenTureS
Sokha beach reSorT
(SihanoukVille)
4 riVerS floaTinG loDGe (koh konG)
inDePenDence hoTel
(SihanoukVille)
cheerS caMboDia
(SihanoukVille)
elSeWHere
+855 (0)12 879 486
villaromonea.com
Villa VeDici (kaMPoT)
villavedici.com
+855 (0)89 290 714
eat
+855 (0)78 333 686
knaibangchatt.com
explore
breezeS (keP)
reaM naTional Park (near
SihanoukVille)
+855 (0)16 251 454
+855 (0)12 215 759
explore
arT exPlo feSTiVal
angkorartexplo.com
+855 (0)63 966 355
gibbonspottingcambodia.com
khiri TraVel
+855 (0)97 613 2750
kinyei.org/sammaki-art-space
TouriST TranSPorTaTion
aSSociaTion kaMPonG ThoM (TTak)
chin VoThea (DirecTor)
+855 (0)12 634 835
[email protected]
ROOM WITH A VIEW
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The grounds at Villa Romonea never cease
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cabana and even a small rice paddy. Each of
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but the master bedroom’s uninterrupted view
of the Gulf of Thailand and Bokor Mountain
truly snatches the breath. Hire the whole villa
and head to Kep with a group of friends to
experience Romonea at its very best.
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Pages 10 et 47

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