PRINCE Footwear - aaw-e-learning
Transcription
PRINCE Footwear - aaw-e-learning
Footwear Footwear Anatomy Outside heel counter Lateral collar Midfoot stabilizer Medial collar Tongue Quarter Eyestay Arch bridge (shank) Midsole Outsole Vamp Toe cap Footwear Last • A last is the foundation of all our footwear. It is a piece of solid plastic following the shape of the foot and acting as a form on which a shoe is made. The last determines the overall fit, toe shape, and volume of the shoe. Footwear Materials • Synthetic leather/Micro fiber upper – lightweight, some are breathable; techy look and can be embossed or welded; lighter weight compared to genuine leather • Leather upper – traditional, natural, soft, good “hand” (feel), genuine look; in general, only looks good in white or black; cannot achieve a technical look • Mesh/AirMesh – often used on the tongue, quarter, and the vamp; it allows the shoe to be more ventilated; it is less structural than synthetic leather or leather so the more mesh there is in a shoe the softer the upper feels • EVA midsole – lightweight foam for cushioning • EVA sockliner – additional lightweight cushioning Footwear Materials. • PU (polyurethane) midsole – a more resilient foam than EVA but heavier; will yellow over time • PU sock liner – highly resilient foam for longer lasting support • TPU (thermal polyurethane) – a plastic material used for stabilizers in the upper and/or midsole Lasting Method • Most athletic footwear (all sports) are sliplasted – meaning the upper of the shoe is stitched to a flexible insole (made out of a woven material). The bottom of the insole is then cemented to the top of the midsole/outsole for final assembly. • Slip-lasting promotes better flexibility and gives the foot a wider range of motion Footwear Assembly Prince MC4 Upper Midsole 1 Cushioning Technology Midsole 2 Arch Bridge (or shank) Outsole Footwear Glossary ARCH • Arch is measured from the ground to the highest portion of the bottom of the foot. There are three types – high, flat, and medium. ARCH BRIDGE (SHANK) • A device often made of Thermal Plastic Urethan (TPU) that supports the foot under the arch and allows the shoe to flex properly. It increases the shoe’s torsional staiblity. COLLAR • Part of the shoe that wraps around the ankle. EVA MIDSOLE (ETHYLENE VINYL ACETATE) • Also called phylon – EVA is a chemical compound with foam-like properties for cushioning. It is lighter than PU and provides a softer ride. FLEX GROOVES • Deep channels cut into the outsole of the forefoot or heel to promote greater flexibility at toe-off and a smooth heel-to-toe transition. HEEL COUNTER • A plastic or composite material that surrounds the heel. It stiffens and reinforces the heel pocket area. Footwear Glossary INSOLES • A light sole conforming to the shape of the bottom of the last to which the upper and the bottom are attached to make the shoe. The sockliner sits on top of the insole. INSTEP • The upper surface of the foot above the arch – over the metatarsal bones from the back of the toes to the ankle. LAST • A solid form of plastic on which a shoe is built. It determines the shape and volume of the shoe. LATERAL • The outside part of the foot MEDIAL • The inside part of the foot PU MIDSOLE (POLYURETHANE) • A chemical compound with foam-like properties for cushioning in the midsole. It is denser, heavier, and more resilient than EVA. Footwear Glossary SHOCKERASER™ • A cellular urethane foam insert in the heel of the EVA midsole. It exhibits high resiliency, good vibration dampening, and impact absorption. SOFTSPRING™ PU • A soft PU insert in the forefoot of the EVA midsole. It exhibits high resiliency to disperse shocks from impact. SOCKLINER/FOOTBED • An insert which is shaped or molded to the approximate contours of the bottom surface of the foot. It can be made in either EVA or PU. Should not be confused with insoles. VAMP • Part of the toe box area where the foot flexes Footwear Technology Comparison US Specialty Channel SMS, 4th Qtr 2006 adidas Barricade IV Nike Air Max BF 2 adidas Barricade II Prince T10 Nike Air Max BF 3 K-Swiss Ultrascendor Prince T9 adidas Barricade III K-Swiss Defier RS K-Swiss Ascendor ALT Wilson Challenger Prince MC4 Babolat Propulse Yonex SHT-305 USA Shoe Rank 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 31 NA NA Retail Price US$ $105 $110 $80 $80 $110 $70 $70 $90 $75 $80 $65 $99 $120 Midsole Tech Heel adiPRENE Air Max adiPRENE ShockEraser Air Max ShockSpring ShockEraser adiPRENE ShockSpring ShockSpring DST02 PTT Vibrakill Midsole Tech Forefoot adiPRENE+ Air Zoom adiPRENE+ SoftSpring Air Zoom ShockSpring SoftSpring adiPRENE+ ShockSpring ShockSpring None PTT Exact Pro $99 Power Cushion None Midsole Tech Visible? No Yes No No Yes No No No No No Yes Yes No No Midsole Stabilizer Torsion TPU shank Torsion TPU shank TPU shank TPU CB TPU shank Torsion TPU CB TPU CB TPU shank TPU shank shank TPU shank Upper Outsole Outsole Lining Tech Tech Branded Tech Trade Mk adiWEAR6 No None None DRC No None Drag On adiWEAR7 No None None PRC1000 No None None DRC No None Drag On Aosta 7.0 No None None PRC1000 No Dri-Lex None adiWEAR6 No None None Aosta 7.0 No None TecTuff Aosta 7.0 No None DuraFlow Duralast No None None Goodyear Yes Dri-Lex None Michelin Yes None None None No Dbl Russel Mesh Conclusion: 1. Trademarking the midsole technology is very important - trade marks and call outs on products establish credibility 2. Visible midsole technology is only somewhat important; but it is very important to call out the technology on the midsole 3. Midsole stabilizer (or Shank) has become a commodity like shoe laces 4. Trademarking the outsole is very important; However, branded outsoles are not important 5. Unlike the running category, tennis brands have not placed importance on lining technology 6. Trademarking the anti-abrasion material in the toe area is somewhat important Super Ergoshape What Do Tennis Players Demand? • Fit/Comfort remains the most important attribute • Adequate levels of cushioning, stability, ventilation, and durability • However, different players demand different levels of above attributes - based on the player’s physical size, playing style, and playing ability • Outsole grip and traction Tennis Footwear • Since players’ foot dimensions are different, Prince uses three different lasts to accommodate different types of feet – T-Last (M & T-Series) has a shallower toe box for a glove-like fit – Quiktrac last has a standard toe box to accommodate most players – NFS last has a wider toe box to provide more room for the toes • Tennis is a multi-direction sport therefore Prince builds lateral stability features into the shoes • To relieve pounding on the knees and feet Prince builds additional cushioning inserts in the heel and forefoot to increase comfort • To prolong the durability of the toe area of the shoes Prince builds a higher outsole sidewall on the medial side and uses abrasion resistant material to overlay the upper’s toe area • On certain models Prince uses AirMesh and moisture-wicking linings in key areas to combat against heat and provide ventilation to the feet (court surface can reach 130°F or 54°C) • A tennis outsole has a rounded medial radius in the forefoot for quicker lateral foot transition What Do Squash Players Demand? • Fit/Comfort remains the top attribute • Adequate levels of cushioning, stability, and ventilation • Some players prefer very lightweight, low-to-theground feel shoes • However, different players demand different levels of above attributes - based on the player’s physical size, playing style, and playing ability • Outsole grip and traction Squash Footwear • Like tennis, squash is a multi-directional sport so Prince builds lateral stability features into the shoes • To relieve pounding on the knees and feet Prince builds additional cushioning inserts in the heel and forefoot to increase comfort • Prince uses AirMesh in key areas to combat against heat and provide ventilation to the feet • A squash outsole has a rounded medial radius in the forefoot for quicker lateral foot transition • A squash outsole uses gum rubber, which is softer and slightly tacky and provides the best grip and flexibility on indoor court surfaces • Squash shoe outsoles are thinner (as compared to tennis) to make the shoes lighter in weight Attribute Trade-Offs In general (both tennis and squash shoes: • A lighter weight shoe provides immediate comfort but is often less durable and less stable. • A thicker, softer midsole/sockliner makes the shoe more cushioned. However, the shoe sits higher and is less stable. • A more stable shoe has a firmer or thinner midsole and requires an additional stability device in the upper (e.g. a strap). Therefore, the shoe feels firmer and heavier. • A durable shoe requires more rubber in the outsole (forefoot and toe areas). This is done by making the outsole thicker or in higher durometer. This adds significant weight to the shoe and the shoe often looks bulky in the toe area. A higher durometer outsole is slicker on hard court and has less grip. • A ventilated shoe uses open mesh which is less structured. Therefore, the upper is softer, more comfortable but has less lateral stability. The key is to find the right trade-offs. Prince Lasts T-Series and M-Series (T-Series Last) • Snug fit last provides increased agility for aggressive play • Cutting edge design and advanced technical features • Various levels of ventilation, cushioning, and stability based on player needs NFS Series (Natural Foot Shape last) • Natural Foot Shape last provides a roomier toe box for comfort • Various levels of ventilation, cushioning, and stability based on player needs Quiktrac Series (Quiktrac last) • Conventional, full fit last, with an emphasis on lightweight and comfort • Synthetic uppers and EVA midsoles • Various levels of ventilation, cushioning, and stability based on player needs Common Prince Footwear Features M SERIES Ventilated • AirMesh in vamp, quarter, and tongue to maximize air flow • Dri-Lex lining to wick away moisture • Medium density Precision Tube Technology Cushioned • Softer density sockliner and midsole to provide a plush ride • Soft synthetic upper material • Softer density Precision Tube Technology Stability • Thermal Polyurethane (TPU) forefoot or midfoot straps for added lateral stability • Firmer density Precision Tube Technology Common Prince Footwear Features T SERIES SHOCKERASER • A cellular urethane foam insert in the heel of the EVA midsole. It exhibits high resiliency, good vibration dampening, and impact absorption. SOFTSPRING • A soft PU insert in the forefoot of the EVA midsole. It exhibits high resiliency to disperse shocks from impact and initiate propulsion. Tennis and Squash Footwear Outsole Patterns • Herringbone patterns are widely used for hard court and clay tennis, as well as indoor court sports • Wider herringbone patterns are used in the medial toe area for increased durability – For pushing off to start running – For toe-dragging during a serve Thinner herringbone with wider gaps in between to shed clay Wider herringbone In toe area for durability Tennis and Squash Footwear Outsole Patterns • Herringbone has proven to be most effective in shedding clay so the outsole maintains proper grip • Herringbone with gum rubber has proven to provide excellent grip on indoor court surfaces Prince Outsole Rubber Compounds Goodyear Max® outsole rubber compound • Exclusive to Prince; higher perceived value • Ultra durable - 10% more durable than PRC1000 • Durability Index 9-10 • Used on M Series (Elite Collection) PRC1000 outsole rubber compound • Prince proprietary rubber compound • Durability Index 9-10 • Used on T Series (Competition Collection) PRC700 outsole rubber compound • Prince proprietary rubber compound • Durability Index 7 • Used on Sport Collection Outsole Rubber Compounds • Traction and durability of outsoles is dependant on the thickness and durometer of the rubber. Since each company specs the thickness and durometer differently it is difficult to compare apples to apples. • Traction and durability have a negative relationship. For better grip on hard court the rubber compound needs to be softer. However, this decreases the durability. This concept is the same as car tires. • Durability also depends on the player’s size and/or playing style. A heavier-built person puts more stress on shoes than a slight-built person. Given the same exact shoe this heavier person will wear the shoes out faster. Same for playing style. A toe dragger will wear out shoes faster than a non toe-dragger. • Branded outsoles give consumers perceived value. Based on our research consumers don’t buy shoes based on what brand outsole it has. It’s about the perception of the brand. We use a branded outsole to 1) provide perceived value and 2) increase the selling price.