The Hague Tramwalk

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The Hague Tramwalk
The Hague
The Hague
Tramwalk
City of Peace and Justice
denhaag.com
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62
In The Hague, history and politics are all around us waiting to be
discovered. May I wish you an interesting and especially a
worthwhile ‘Tram Walk’.
EL
TR.
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61
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1813 number of places which are
You can use this guide to visitPLaEINlarge
Panorama
connected in some way with
Mesdagfreedom as well as with oppression:
from the philosopher 23Spinoza’s grave to the Soldier of Orange
beach in Scheveningen, and from the Binnenhof to the Peace
Palace.
Koninklijke
HEIN-
VO
47
LA AN
SC
MA N-
OT STRAAT
PIET
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Europol
J AVA ST are closely related to freePeace and justice are concepts which
RA A
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dom. The Netherlands
has discovered how vulnerable freedom
voor
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Louis
can be on many occasions,
ranging
from the
Eighty Years’ War
18
1
Couperus
11 J
AVA
with Spain to the Second World 10War.
STR
KSTRA AT
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NPA
I have set up a special ‘The Hague Bridge’ program in cooperation
with voluntary workers and civil servants, and of course with the
Vredespaleis
approval
of the municipal council. Our aim is to bring our city of
28
Peace and Justice closer to our citizens, and to unite expats and
non-expats as much as possible. This means everyone! To achieve
this, we will be organizing The Hague Bridge activities - such as
Museum
Mesdag
this Tram
Walk - every few months. These activities will take place
20
LAA N VA
inNaMEdifferent
city district each time.
E RD E
R
AN
TIVOLISTR.
UCT
CATSLAA N
59
37
17
AN
SM
AR
RL
A
PLE
EG
Hubertuspark
The Hague is a most exceptional city. Looking back over the past
few decades, we can say that no other city in the world has
succeeded in attracting so many important and prestigious
international institutions in such a short time.
JAC OB
SE
VIAD
WE G
W
UY
SP
R
DE
AS
-
SCHE VE NINGSE
Foreword
Zorgvliet
US
E RT
HUB
Bosjes
S
P
ELTLA A N
VAN HOORNBEEKSTRAAT
01
From the centre of The Hague you walk into the biggest town hall atrium in
the world. The dazzlingly white ‘palace’ of the American architect Richard
Meier is the outcome of a successful change which the centre of The Hague
has undergone in the past years. A striking building in the middle of the
rising skyline of the international city of peace & justice. Meier is a master
of light, a modern Rembrandt. His philosophy is: “The architecture is white,
people add the colour. White intensifies the observation of all other shades
of colour”. Meier believes that the light should penetrate unimpeded to the
floor of The Hague atrium. Speaking of the light that typifies Holland he
says: “The clouds in The Hague are incredible. When the sun comes through
the clouds it is often like a beautiful painting”. The transparency also has
a symbolic significance. Politicians and civil employees working in the
building are visible to everyone. The town hall was opened on 8 September
1995. Meier is the architect of many famous buildings including the Getty
Museum in Los Angeles. In 1984 he was awarded the Pritzker Prize, the
most prestigious architecture prize in the world.
Passing reception, leave the main entrance of the town hall. Cross over
diagonally to the Nieuwe Kerk, literally the new church.
02
4
Town Hall
Benedictus de Spinoza
Funeral monument behind the Nieuwe Kerk
Enlightenment philosopher Spinoza (Amsterdam, 1632 – The Hague, 1677)
criticised the Torah, because the words ‘zozeer de mensengeest verraadt
dat deze onmogelijk door God kan zijn geschreven of geïnspireerd’ [are
clearly a product of the human spirit and it is impossible for it to have been
written or inspired by God]. Spinoza questioned many of the religious assumptions of his day. He was not an atheist but challenged the existence
of miracles and the supernatural. He was expelled from the Jewish community in Amsterdam in 1656. Spinoza lived in Rijnsburg, Voorburg and
The Hague among other places. His main publications are ‘Tractatus
Theologico-Politicus’ and ‘Ethics’, the oldest extant advocacy of freedom
of speech and the written word. In 1672 he wrote ‘Ultimi Barbarorum’ [the
ultimate barbarity], a protest against the murder of the De Witt brothers.
Spinoza who had been deeply shocked by the event wanted to mount his
text on the site of the horrendous act but was dissuaded by his landlord
who was afraid of reprisals. Spinoza was buried in 1677 in the Nieuwe Kerk
but some years later the grave was emptied and his mortal remains scattered on the land behind the church. In 1927 a recumbent commemorative
stone was unveiled and in 1956 an erect stone. They were restored in
2007.
The Rabbijn Maarsenplein is behind the Nieuwe Kerk.
03
Monument to Jewish children
Rabbijn Maarsenplein
In the Bezemstraat, which is now Rabbijn Maarsenplein, there was a Jewish
school up to the Second World War. The Jewish children here saw the numbers in their class dwindling week by week. More and more children were
picked up at home and ended up, via Westerbork camp in the province of
Drenthe, in concentration camps like Auschwitz and Sobibor. More than
10,000 Jewish residents of The Hague ended up in concentration camps.
Most of them never returned. More than 1,700 Jewish children from The
Hague did not survive the war.
This monument is made by the artists Sara Benhamou and Eric de Vries in
2006. The six structures of differing height look like ladders or piles of empty
chairs no longer used by the absent children. All of them are inscribed
with the names and ages of the children who died. At the same time the
monument can be used by children as a climbing frame and serves as
a symbol of tolerance and respect for each other’s origin and way of life,
creating a bridge between the past, the present and the future. Rabbi
Maarsen was the chief rabbi of The Hague. He refused to go into hiding and
continued to support members of the Jewish community. As of 23 April
1943 the Nazi occupier decreed that Jews were no longer allowed to live in
The Hague. On 20 April the rabbi gave a farewell speech. The next day he
and his family were arrested. Three months later they were murdered in
Sobibor.
You are now in China town. Walk via St. Jacobstraat to Wagenstraat 124a.
04
Yi Jun Peace museum
Yi Jun was a Korean judge and diplomat. Both Koreas honour him as a
national hero. In 1907 he was delegated with his fellow countrymen
Yi Sang-sol and Yi Wi-jong to The Hague to take part in the Second Peace
Conference. The message they brought to The Hague was that a Japanese
annexation was illegal and that Korea had to remain independent. But the
delegation was not officially invited.
Several days after Yi Jun’s protest he was found dead in his room in Hotel
De Jong in the Wagenstraat. Until the present day the cause of death is
unknown. All kinds of rumours did the rounds. Was it a heart attack? Did
he die of an abscess in his jaw? Had he been attacked earlier on a quiet
part of the beach? Was there a conspiracy? Or was it perhaps suicide
because of the shame at the rejection by the international community?
The remaining two members of the delegation gave a press conference.
The plea that the Korean delegation had wished to put before the peace
conference was printed in the peace newspaper that was published during
5
the conference. This was an important gesture. Ten days after the death of
Yi Jun Korea officially became a protectorate of Japan. In 1910 it was
annexed.
The Yi Jun Peace Museum has been established in the former hotel since
1995. The museum has letters from Mahatma Ghandhi and Nelson
Mandela and other famous people.
Leaving the museum you turn to the right. Go to the end of the first street
on the left. On your left-hand side you will see the Spinoza statue on
Paviljoensgracht.
05
Spinoza house and statue
In 1669 Spinoza moved to The Hague where he completed his major,
standard work Ethics. He lived for a brief period on Veerkade after which
he moved to Paviljoensgracht 72-74, the house of the painter Hendrik van
der Spyk. It was here that he remained until his death. He died of tuberculosis at the age of 44. Spinoza lived simply. He earned a little money
by grinding lenses. The glass dust that he will have inhaled while doing
this work may well have played a role in his illness. The Spinoza House
Association now manages the house and they have installed a room for
study and a library where publications and studies dating from the
nineteenth century can be consulted.
In 1880, opposite Spinoza’s house, a statue of him was unveiled after years
of bickering. Even the Minister of Foreign Affairs was present at the
ceremony. It was a striking event at the time because even then there were
critics who regard his work as subversive.
Now turn left into Dunne Bierkade, also called Culinary Avenue. There
are a number of international restaurants on this street. On the corner
of the Wagenstraat you will find City Mondial. This shop provides
information about the many cultures in The Hague. On the right you
will see the new skyscraper, the flatiron building, built after the famous
example in New York. At City Mondial turn into the Wagenstraat. Then
turn right and walk to the end of the St. Jacobstraat. You can see the
town hall and the famous Nederlands Dans Theater (NDT) before you.
On the left hand corner you will see the Albert Heijn supermarket
at the intersection of Kalvermarkt/Spui). Left of the main entrance is a
commemorative plaque of Mozart.
7
06
8
Portrait of Mozart
Amadeus Mozart came to The Hague as an eight-year old prodigy and
stayed among other places at Spui 44. Close to this spot you can now see
the commemorative plaque.
His visit to the court at The Hague was part of a grand tour of European
courts including Vienna and Versailles. The concerts were so popular that
they were actually reported in newspapers which normally speaking only
posted political notices and advertisements. The Leydse Courant wrote
enthusiastically: “Tegenwoordig bevind zig alhier de beroemde Musicant
J.G. Wolfgang van Mozart, dewelke maar agt jaren oud is, en op eene
wonderbaare wyze de moejelijkste beroemdste meesters, zoals ook verscheidene van zyne eige compositie executeerd. Deze jong Musicant
heeft zye uitmuntende gaaven aan het Stadhouderlyke Hof Etc. laaten
hooren en de Verwondering en de Goedkeuring van een ieder weggedragen’
[At the moment we have here the famous musician J.G. Wolfgang van
Mozart, who is only eight years old, and who plays the most difficult
famous masters in a miraculous way as well as a number of his own
compositions. This young musician has displayed his excellent talent to
the Court of the Stadtholder to the amazement and approval of everyone.]
The papers of the day reported that the ‘fresh young lad’ could play by heart
like no other and that he was quite prepared to play request numbers.
Mozart composed various works for the installation ceremony of the new
Stadtholder Willem V. Only one of the arias that he wrote for the princess
has survived: Conservati fede. His Gallimathias Musicum is a cheerful,
varied composition closing with a fugue on the theme of the Dutch national
anthem.
Follow the tram tracks turning to the left until you come to the lake,
the Hofvijver. This is the next stop.
07
Gevangenpoort - Plaats square
De Witt brothers
The Republic of the Seven United Netherlands was going through difficult
times in the late seventeenth century. Wars were being fought above all with
England and France and there was a power struggle underway between the
supporters of the House of Orange and the republicans. The republic
seemed lost in the calamitous year of 1672. During the preceding period
without a Stadtholder the people had pleaded for the return of the Stadt­
holder of the House of Orange.
In 1672 a barber accused the regent, Cornelis de Witt, of having contrived a
plot to assassinate the Prince of Orange. De Witt was put to the rack in the
Gevangenpoort. He refused to confess: ‘Scheurt mij maar aan stukken, je
krijgt er toch niet uit wat er niet in zit’. [Pull me to pieces. You are not going
to get out what is not in there] When Johan de Witt, who lived close by on
Kneuterdijk, went to visit his brother, an angry crowd had gathered in front
of the Gevangenpoort. The brothers were dragged outside and met a
gruesome end at the hands of the mob. Their bodies were nailed upside
down to a stake on a piece of grassland, Groene Zoodje, on the corner of
the Hofvijver, after which parts of their bodies were cut off as souvenirs and
even eaten. Later members of the family collected the bodies and buried
them quietly in the Nieuwe Kerk. Various body parts can be viewed in the
Haags Historisch Museum at Korte Vijverberg.
The statue of Johan de Witt is in a square called Plaats. De Witt points with
his hand to his place of execution. Since 1882 Museum the Gevangenpoort
has been providing the public with information about the history of criminal
law. The torture chamber where Cornelis de Witt was held can also be
visited.
Number 20 - currently a men’s clothing store - is where painter Vincent van
Gogh worked in 1869. At the time it was an art dealer’s and the 16-year-old
Vincent was a junior clerk.
The next stop is opposite Johan de Witt on Lange Vijverberg.
9
08
Johan van Oldenbarnevelt
Grand pensionary Johan van Oldenbarnevelt (1547-1619) was an extremely
important statesman. The young republic flourished under his political
leadership and the military direction of the Stadtholder Prince Maurits.
In 1609 Van Oldenbarnevelt became a keen supporter of an armistice with
the Spaniards which the prince rigorously opposed. Van Oldenbarnevelt
took the view that the Calvinist church “had many mansions”, but Maurits
was a firm believer in a single Calvinist church. Maurits had him arrested
on suspicion of high treason.
Van Oldenbarnevelt was beheaded at the Binnenhof on 13 May 1619. On
the scaffold he spoke the famous words to the public: “Mannen, gelooft
niet dat ik een landverrader ben, ik heb oprecht en vroom gehandeld, als
een goed patriot, en die zal ik sterven” [Men, do not believe that I am a
traitor to my country, I have acted sincerely and devoutly, as a good patriot,
and so shall I die]. His final words to the executioner were: “Maak het kort,
maak het kort”. [Make it short, make it short]
In 1954 opposite the Binnenhof on Lange Vijverberg a bronze statue of him
was unveiled by Queen Juliana. He holds his hand on his heart.
Via Plaats square you now proceed straight ahead to Noordeinde.
Once in Noordeinde turn right.
09
Noordeinde Palace
Statue of Queen Wilhelmina
The working palace of Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands. Both her grandmother and mother Princess Wilhelmina and Princess Juliana, were born
here. The last respects were paid here to Prince Claus, her consort, Princess
Juliana and Prince Bernhard, her father. The palace is also used for festive
occasions. On ‘Prinsjesdag’, the day of the Queen’s speech in Parliament,
the third Tuesday in September, the royal family meet here on the balcony
of the palace after a tour of the city to wave to the assembled throng. The
palace also has a symbolic significance. The Dutch people want to be
close to the royal family.
Since 1987, on the square in front of the palace, there has been a bronze
statue of Queen Wilhelmina. The queen is depicted as an uncompromising
woman. The statue honours her as ‘mother of the resistance’. During the
Second World War while the Queen was in exile in London she spoke to
the Dutch people on many occasions through Radio Orange. During these
radio broadcasts Queen Wilhelmina made a point of stressing the impor-
11
tance of regaining the country’s liberty. Behind the statue there is a
triangular stone which bears the text: ‘Eenzaam maar niet alleen’ [Lonely,
but not alone]. The square is closed by a low wall bearing the words:
‘1880-1962
Wilhelmina
Achter Haar Stem
Uit Ballingschap
Stond
Een Gestalte
Als
Deze
1940-1946’
12
‘1880-1962
Wilhelmina
Behind Her Voice
In Exile
stood
a figure
like
this one
1940-1946’
Walk through the Heulstraat in the direction of Kneuterdijk. At the end
of the Heulstraat, on the left hand side, you will see a plaque about the
amendment to the Constitution in 1848 when the King relinquished much
of his power. Around the corner is the former Kneuterdijk Palace. On the
opposite side is the historical avenue of Lange Voorhout where Emperor
Charles V had the trees planted in the sixteenth century. In Berlin ‘Unter
den Linden’ was inspired by the example of Lange Voorhout. On the
corner is the Kloosterkerk where Queen Beatrix quite regularly attends
Sunday services. The next stop is at the end of Lange Voorhout on the
left hand side.
10
Hotel Des Indes
On Lange Voorhout ‘the most beautiful square in Europe’, you will find the
historical landmark Hotel Des Indes. It was built as a town house in 1858 for
the equivalent of one and a half tonnes of pure gold. In the early years as a
hotel there were 120 rooms and a single bathroom, which in those days was
a great luxury. By 1900 there were more bathrooms and every room had a
direct telephone connection with reception.
In 1899 the First Hague Peace Conference was held at the initiative of Tsar
Nicolas II of Russia. Many government leaders and diplomats came to The
Hague for the occasion. The Second Hague Peace Conference took place
in 1907 and President Theodore Roosevelt played an important role. In December 1904 he spoke in Washington saying: ‘I have asked the Powers to
join with this Government in a second Hague conference at which is hoped
that the work already so happily begun at The Hague may be carried some
steps further toward completion …’. At a time of great international tension
(the Japanese-Russian war, colonial conflicts in Africa and growing armament of the European powers) the American president pleaded for the arbitration of conflicts. He even worked hard to achieve a World Court.
A plaque is to be found on the first floor containing letters of thanks from
famous guests of the hotel. Roosevelt and Tsar Nicolas II both stayed at
Des Indes. Other important guests included Emperor Haille Selassie of
Ethiopia, Charles Lindbergh, Bing Crosby, Sir Winston Churchill and Anna
Pavlova. Churchill gave an important speech on European Unity in 1948
at the Binnenhof close by: ‘The movement for European Unity must be a
positive force, deriving its strength from our sense of common spiritual
values’. Those present, just after the Second World War, were moved to
tears. The New York Times wrote: ‘We are witnessing today in The Hague a
pheno­menon of the greatest importance, we are witnessing the renewal of
the European spirit’. It was from this congress that the European Council
emerged.
Since 2003 the hotel has been part of the Starwoods & Resorts chain. It
was in 2006 thoroughly refurbished. The French interior architect Jacques
Garcia was commissioned to design the new interior.
Coming from Hotel Des Indes carry on straight ahead. On the left hand
side you pass the former Lange Voorhout Palace, which is now the Escher
Museum. Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte stayed here in 1811. Coming from
Lange Voorhout cross the road and walk into the Lange Houtstraat.
13
11
Bill Clinton
The President of the United States came to The Hague in 1998. He also
paid a visit to the old city centre. He thought The Hague was wonderful. He
was so impressed that he promised that he would return soon after his
presidency. And he lived up to his promise because The Hague was his
first foreign destination in 2001 after he had left the White House. He walked
over the Denneweg (which runs from the corner of Hotel Des Indes) and
enjoyed the many antique and fashion shops and art galleries. Via the
American Embassy he walked with a small group of people (it was still
before the attacks of 11 September) to the Schlemmer Restaurant in Korte
Houtstraat. Here he stayed for three quarters of an hour. It turned out that
he was a real tea drinker, and that Earl Grey was his favourite. The cup he
drank from, which of course was never washed, is in a glass case above
the bar. The President has a soft spot for The Hague, internationally too, or
so it would appear from his memoirs, in which he writes: “I was one of the
first world leaders who called for the founding of an International Tribunal
for War Criminals and I thought that the United States ought to support the
initiative”.
Walk further along Lange Houtstraat and you end up in a square of great
character, the Plein.
12
Schlemmer Restaurant
Statue of William of Orange
The square called Plein is dominated by the statue of William of Orange
(1533-1584). The prince-stadtholder can be regarded as the founding
father of the Netherlands. In his battle against the Spanish King Philip II, he
fought for religious, political and economic freedom.
In his left hand he bears a paper with the names of the towns which began
the revolt against the Spanish. Close to his right leg is his faithful dog
which saved his life when there was an attempt to take his life. The Prince’s
troops had just set up camp when an assassin attempted to enter his tent.
His dog scented danger and by barking loudly was able to warn his master
in time. The monument bears the text:
AAN
WILLEM DEN EERSTE
PRINS VAN ORANJE
VADER DES VADERLANDS
HET DANKBARE VOLK
TO
WILLIAM THE FIRST
PRINCE OF ORANGE
FATHER OF THE FATHERLAND
THE GRATEFUL PEOPLE
MDCCCXLVIII
MDCCCXLVIII
15
On 10 July 1584 the Prince nevertheless succumbed to a hired assassin,
Balthasar Gerards, in Delft.
Long ago the Plein was a huge vegetable and flower garden. There was a
high wall with towers that linked up with the walls surrounding the Binnenhof and the Buitenhof. Stadtholder Frederik Hendrik in particular concerned himself with the design of the Plein, which was supposed to look
like Place Royal in Paris, now called Place des Vosges: a strictly ordered
square surrounded by prestigious town houses. Classical town houses
were thus built around the Plein, one of them being the Mauritshuis. One
of the largest buildings is the former Logement van Amsterdam built to
accommodate representatives of that city in Parliament. The coat of arms
of the city of Amsterdam is still visible on the roof.
The Ministry of Defence is now housed in the place where the representatives of Rotterdam stayed. In addition there is the chic home of the Societeit De Witte club, the building of former ministries of Justice and Colonies
and the striking new building of the Lower House of Parliament.
From the Plein walk to the Mauritshuis. Here you can see the next stop.
13
The octagonal building on the Hofvijver is first mentioned in a medieval
chronicle. Originally it was a summer house of the counts of Holland. Later
it came to be used as a storage space and prison. Since 1982 it has
become the office of the Prime Minister. It is striking how close the public
walking and cycling in the vicinity can come. It is a symbol of Dutch
democracy. The prime minister too does not want to be too far from the
people.
From the Mauritshuis you now walk into the Binnenhof.
14
16
The prime minister’s tower
Binnenhof – Ridderzaal
The Hague is the heart of democracy in the Netherlands. Here you will find
the old and new buildings of the States General or the Dutch Parliament.
This castle complex was built in the thirteenth century. Count William II of
Holland had had some military success in what is now Germany and was
due to be crowned German Emperor by the Pope. This is why he wished
to build an impressive palace. If he had opted for one of the existing cities
that would have given rise to mutual envy. So he decided to build a palace
in The Hague in the woods close to the dunes and the sea. He died before
the coronation took place. His son, Count Floris V, completed the building
of the castle. The castle comprised a living space, the Rolzaal, and a larger
room, the Ridderzaal or Knights’ Hall. From that point onwards it became
the residence of the counts of Holland. The building was on the lake, the
Hofvijver, and was surrounded by walls and moats. In 1585 the Binnenhof
became the seat of parliament, the States General.
Unfortunately part of the Binnenhof has been demolished in the course
of the centuries. Of the houses and the chapel which were part of the complex only the Keurhuis or hallmark office has remained, a narrow,
singular building behind the Ridderzaal dating from 1640. It was a place
where gold and silver were assayed. In the cornerstone above the door
you can still see the engraved words ‘t Goutsmits Keurhuys’ [Goldsmiths’
Hall].
In October 2001 in the course of excavations on the site of the Binnenhof
remains of a fourteenth century building were found. It was probably a
space were knights gathered before or after a meeting in the Knights’
Hall.
Every third Tuesday in September the Queen reads the speech from the
throne in the Knights’ Hall on behalf of the Dutch Cabinet. It is equivalent
to the Queen’s speech on the occasion of the state opening of parliament
in the UK. This festive occasion is referred to as Prinsjesdag and the Queen
tours the city in a golden coach. It is also the state opening of the Dutch
Parliament.
The square in front of the Knights’ Hall has a fountain dating from 1885
bearing the text: ‘Ter nagedachtenis aan de Graaf van Holland, Koning
Willem II, den begunstiger der Stedelijke wijsheden, den beschermer der
Kunst, den stichter der kastelen van ‘s-Gravenhage en Haarlem’.
[Commemorating the Count of Holland, King William II, patron of cities’
wisdom, the protector of the arts, the founder of castles in The Hague and
Haarlem].
On leaving the Binnenhof you see an equestrian statue of King William II
(1840-1849). He was commander in chief of the army at the battle of
Waterloo. According to Napoleon, who once stayed in Lange Voorhout
Palace, he would have won the battle if William had not held up so
heroically. ‘Hij bezat het genie van de oorlog’ [He had the talent for war].
The prince was wounded at the battle of Waterloo and his horse Wexy died
there. In 1848 numerous revolutions throughout Europe curbed the power
of princes. King William II prevented a revolution by voluntarily relinquishing
some of his powers. He became ‘in een nacht van conservatief liberal!’
[He turned from being a conservative into a liberal overnight].
17
Take tram 1 in the direction of Scheveningen Noorderstrand
The tram stops just five minutes to the left if you leave the Binnenhof and
immediately in front of the traffic lights. 15
Mauritskade stop
Walk straight ahead to Plein 1813
This restored monument in the middle of the square commemorates the
restoration of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in 1813 after the French
occupation. It was unveiled on 17 November 1869. The whole monument
is surmounted by a statue of the triumphant virgin of the Netherlands and
below are a statue of King William I swearing an oath on the constitution, a
group depicting the three figures who prepared the king’s return and two
female statues personifying religion and history. On the lower part of the
plinth is a stone frieze showing the arrival of William I in Scheveningen on
30 March 1813 and bearing the text:
HET VADERLAND
WEDEROM
GEPLAATST IN EEN
RANG
DER VOLKEN VAN
EUROPA
BRIEF PRINSE VAN
ORANJE
VAN 22 NOVEMBER
1813
THE FATHERLAND
AGAIN
PLACED AMONG THE
RANKS
OF THE PEOPLES OF
EUROPE
LETTER OF THE PRINCE OF
ORANGE
22 NOVEMBER
1813
Follow the tram tracks and take the
tram from the Javastraat stop.
19
16
Next stop
The first Peace Conference took place in The Hague in 1899. Two enthusiastic diplomats had the idea of setting up a Permanent Court of
Arbitration. The American diplomat Andrew Dickson White got in touch
with his friend Andrew Carnegie and managed to convince him to make a
donation of 1.5 million dollars.
For the design of the Peace Palace that was to be built an international
competition was held and the French architect Louis M. Cordonnier
produced the winning design in neo-renaissance style. The gardens of
the palace were designed by the English garden architect Thomas
Mawson.
The first stone of the Peace Palace was symbolically laid during the
second Peace Conference of 1907. In 1913 the palace was officially
opened by Queen Wilhelmina. The palace is full of gifts presented by the
participants of The Hague Convention as a sign of their support for the
Permanent Court. Russia gave a vase weighing 3,200 kilogrammes.
Special rails had to be laid to place this giant piece of art in the palace.
Other gifts include cast iron and copper doors from Belgium, marble from
Italy, a fountain from Denmark, wall hangings from Japan and wood from
Indonesia and the United States. The gates and railings are from Germany
and the clock in the clock tower was a gift from Switzerland.
The square in front of the Peace Palace is regularly used for protests
against international abuses in the domain of politics and law. The Palace
is the home of a very extensive library, the Carnegie foundation, The
Hague Academy of International Law, the Permanent Court of Arbitration
and the International Court of Justice (the only main organ of the United
Nations outside New York).
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Peace Palace stop
To the right of the entrance burns the World Peace Flame. The flame was
created from a combination of the flames of peace from Europe, America,
Africa, Australia, Asia and the Middle East. In 1999 the burning flames
were flown in from each of the continents by various air forces in the world
in a spectacular peace campaign. Unique slabs of stone were donated by
different countries as a symbol of the hope of peace. Together they form
the World Peace Pathway. Nobel prize winners Desmond M. Tutu, Jimmy
Carter and Mikhail Gorbachev supported the peace project. (The Dutch
lawyer Tobias Asser was awarded the Nobel prize in 1911 as the founder
of international law.)
In front of the Peace Palace, on Carnegie square, is The Hague monument
commemorating the 20,000 citizens of The Hague who perished as
victims of the Second World War. The four pillars represent the Protestant,
Catholic, Jewish and neutral groups in the population. The stone dike
combining the pillars symbolises the unified operation of the resistance
against the Nazis. Every year on 4 May the annual remembrance day
ceremony starts on this spot at seven thirty in the evening..
17
World Forum stop
International zone
If you walk into the international zone you will quickly pass by the austere
building of the Yugoslavia Tribunal. If the tribunal is in session, you will be
able to see a lot of broadcasting vehicles in the distance. The International
Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia was founded in 1993 by the
United Nations Security Council because of the violation of human rights
on a massive scale during the civil war in the Balkans. Here it is official
United Nations territory. There are three courts and a higher appeals
chamber. The highest sentence that the tribunal can impose is a life
sentence. The judges choose a country where the condemned person
must sit out the sentence. The most well-known defendant was Slobodan
Milosovic who died on 11 March 2006 in the prison in Scheveningen where
the United Nations uses a number of cells. Visitors can visit the general
lobby and see a court from the public gallery.
Opposite the Tribunal is the World Forum Convention Centre, designed
by the Dutch architect Oud, a pioneer of New Building in the Netherlands.
He endeavoured to create a pure language of form based on simple,
undecorated, volumes. There is a great deal of space, light and air in this
functional building where numerous famous artists and politicians have
spoken, Percy Sledge and Hillary Clinton to mention but two.
On 21 March 2009 the first Afghanistan top on request of President Barack
Obama took place at the World Forum.
Behind the congress centre is the striking semi-circular building of
the Organisation for the Prohibition of Chemical Weapons (OPCW). 182
Countries are members of this chemical watchdog. The OPCW is not a
UN organisation though it has ties with the UN. The aim of the OPCW
is to track down and destroy chemical weapons in the world. The large
auditorium is called the Ieper/Ypres auditorium after the city in Belgium
where soldiers came under chemical attack in the First World War. The
OPCW building can be visited by appointment.
The OPCW monument for victims of chemical weapons was unveiled by
Queen Beatrix on 9 May 2007. The monument is behind the OPCW
building on the Catsheuvel. Voeb de Gruyter designed the piece. She
combines three trees in the work: a living maple eight metres high, a solar
cell tree which absorbs light and passes on energy to a webcam which
21
allows the living tree to be seen on the internet and the third, a virtual
tree to be seen at www.thismeldingtree.org, which makes the monument
visible day and night and grows through the number of visitors.
Opposite the OPCW is the Dutch White House, officially called Catshuis.
Jacob Cats was a poet and a politician who bought the estate and house,
in neo-classical style, in 1652. After it was renovated in 2006 the white
painted Catshuis came to be used again as the official home and reception
centre of the prime minister of the Netherlands.
The park around the Catshuis, Sorghvliet estate, is open to the public.
Tickets are obtainable all VVV tourist offices in The Hague. The Hague
stream, called the Haagsche Beek, runs through the estate from its source
in the dunes near the sea and terminates in the Hofvijver lake at the
Binnenhof. A number of special seventeenth century arched bridges still
cross the stream.
From Sorghvliet you can walk back to the tram stop.
18
Frankenslag stop
Van Stolkpark, next stop
This green oasis is home to one of the first villa estates in the Netherlands.
Turn right into Kanaalweg and walk into one of the lateral avenues on your
right. You will see a lot of Jugendstil style buildings and English landscape
architecture in the Van Stolkpark district.
At Parkweg 9a you will find a villa called ‘Hejmo Nia’, which is Esperanto
for ‘Our House’. It was built in 1917 by the Broese van Groenou family who
had earned a fortune from sugar in the former Dutch East Indies. The
progressive, liberal Broese van Groenou family entertained numerous
artists and scientists here at home. The garden room was used for the first
Montessori school in the Netherlands.
One of the very welcome guests was the Austrian philosopher-scientist
Otto Neurath who had escaped the Nazi regime. At the time of a crisis in
capitalism he advocated a more socialised world economy. Neurath was
a progressive optimist who thought in global terms. He stepped outside
the traditional academic frameworks and was in favour of a common
international simplification of communication in language and picture. He
is the founding father of pictogrammes.
23
19
24
Kurhaus stop
In the early nineteenth century bathing culture became popular in Western
Europe drawing people to Scheveningen where they could enjoy the healthy
sea air. In 1818 Jacob Pronk built a wooden bathing pavilion that rapidly
expanded to become a real hotel. The bathing pavilion became the
Kurhaus Hotel in 1885. Pronk had two bathing coaches which allowed
guests to drive into the sea where they could then carefully step into the
water unseen. There was also an ‘inhalatorium’ where people were treated
with sea water for all kinds of disorders. Queen Wilhelmina was the first
to sign the famous guest book in 1893 when she was 13 years old. The
Kurhaus Hotel with its cupola was visited by heads of state, princes,
politicians, film stars, painters and poets.
In 1894 an International Peace Conference was held in the Kurhaus. The
linchpin of the European Peace Movement, the Austrian Countess Bertha
von Suttner, who was to receive a Nobel prize in 1905, was the unofficial
central figure of the event.
The beautiful concert hall of the Kurhaus was a much-desired stage for the
elite among international artists. The portrait gallery, which includes the
names of Marlene Dietrich, Duke Ellington, Edith Piaf and Maria Callas,
now hangs in the bar of the hotel. The most famous, and infamous,
concert was that of the Rolling Stones when they performed for the first
time on the continent of Europe in the Kurzaal in 1964. Chairs and bottles
rapidly flew through the hall, a chandelier was saved from destruction
at the last minute and the police hit out indiscriminately. The Kurhaus
became a veritable battle ground and the concert was terminated after
four songs.
(The Hague is the top beat and pop town of the Netherlands. The most
famous band is Golden Earring which had a world hit in the seventies with
the song ‘Radar Love’).
Scheveningen is the first seaside resort of the Netherlands and the
renovated Kurhaus is still the most prominent landmark in Scheveningen.
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Soldier of Orange beach
Behind the Kurhaus is the Soldier of Orange beach. On 24 April 2003,
a commemorative plaque was unveiled on the Boulevard by the meantimedeceased Erik Hazelhoff Roelfzema. The text reads:
‘SOLDIER OF ORANGE BEACH
It was on this beach in the winter of 1941-42 that landings were carried out by the ‘Engelandvaarders’ ERIK HAZELHOFF ROELFZEMA, CHRIS KREDIET AND PETER TAZELAAR, who had escaped from occupied territory to the UK to fight the enemy. The aim of the landings was to bring about a reliable contact between the Dutch government in exile
in London and the resistance in occupied Netherlands. About 1800 Engelandvaarders escaped in the Second World War making their way via various routes to the UK to work on the liberation of the
Netherlands. They were hospitably received in London by Queen
Wilhelmina, the ‘Mother of the Engelandvaarders’, who saw them as
a link with the resistance in the Netherlands. In the course of the war she appointed KREDIET, TAZELAAR EN HAZELHOFF ROELFZEMA,
as her personal aides and later they became known as soldiers of Orange.’
The story of Erik Hazelhoff Roelfzma was filmed by the internationally
famous Dutch director Paul Verhoeven. ‘Soldier of Orange’ is one of the
most popular films in Dutch history. The Engelandvaarders were at great
risk of being blown up by mines or shot by German patrol boats. The
landings made by Erik and his friends mainly took place close to the first
black breakwater left of Scheveningen Pier. The Nazis were in the Palace
Hotel which has meanwhile been demolished, next to the Kurhaus.
A fragment from the book ‘Soldier of Orange’: “We heard a church clock
striking which to my surprise brought a lump to my throat. Then we saw
the blacked out lamps close by to the left. Chris said that he could see the
boulevard. We carried on further along the coast and a few minutes later
we just missed Scheveningen Pier by a hair ….
During the last few metres in the water I started taking off Peter’s top gear.
Suddenly he froze. Right in front of us on the waterline, against the dark
land, something black. Was it moving? I took out my pistol but Peter
walked ahead. It turned out to be a stake with a sign on it, perhaps a warning for landmines. When we were close up we were able to read what was
written. ‘Verboden voor Heeren’ [Men not allowed]. We had landed in the
ladies bathing section of the Scheveningen baths. It was 23 November
1941, twenty-five minutes before five in the morning, Dutch time.”
25
Hazelhoff Roelfzema said during the unveiling of the monument that it was
quite normal what he and his resistant friends had done. The Engelandvaarders simply had to do something to help to free the Netherlands. There
was no other way.
“I am quite convinced that young people these days, faced with a similar
sort of situation, would do the same!”.
Colophon
Auteur:
Willem Post
Publication:
The Hague Bridge / Department of International Affairs
Translation:
Wordsmiths Translations
Photography:
Peter van Oosterhout, Michel Veenman,
Arjan de Jager, Marketing & Events
Design:
Berg Kleijn Communicatie
www.denhaag.nl
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The Hague
Tram Track
Walking Track
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