The Road Map – Hair Color 101

CHOOSING THE RIGHT COLOR FOR YOU
HAIRCO LOR 101
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ROAD MAP
Start your colour journey here
Where am I? Know your true color before you change it.
What is my current natural hair color?
To determine your natural color, look at the new growth at the scalp.
What is the ‘level’?
The level is the unit of measurement used to determine how light or dark a color is.
There are 10 levels to determine hair color, from 0=black to 10=palest blonde.
1 Black
2 Very Dark
Brown
3 Dark Brown
4 Medium
Brown
5 Light Brown
6 Dark Blonde
7 Medium
Blonde
8 Light Blonde
9 Very Light
Blonde
10 Lightest
Blonde
What is the ‘tone’?
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Tone refers to the warmth or coolness of a color. Red, orange, yellow, and gold are warm.
Green, blue, violets, and gray are cool. A balance of warm and cool tones is neutral.
What is the percentage of gray/white?
The higher the percentage of gray, the more ‘N’ or ‘neutral’ your formula will need to be.
Also, a higher the percentage of gray requires longer processing time.
Where do I want to go? What color do I want?
Do I want to go lighter or darker?
What is the final look I want to achieve?
Do I want one solid color, dimensional, color, highlights or low lights or OMBRE?
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How am I going to get there?
What products should I use?
Glossers are temporary, add tone and shine
Color Rinses are temporary, They just add tone
and shine.
Semi Permanents are also temporary color, They
add tone, sheer color, shine, and may blend gray.
They are non-ammonia, Semi Permanent developers are 3% ammonia.
Demi Permanents are longer lasting than
semi-permanent, They add tone, deepen color,
add shine, and are good for gray blending. They
do not lift natural color or previously dyed hair.
With or without ammonia. Their developers are 10
ammonia volume.
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What should I do?
What technique should I use?
Root touch ups
- to cover/blend gray
- to lighten natural color
- to darken natural color
Color form scalp to ends
- to create a uniform color from scalp to ends
as in coloring for the first time
- to create a uniform color from the scalp
when the ends have faded
Block color is side by side solid sections of
different colors
Highlights selected sections of hair to be lightened
Lowlights: selected sections of hair to be darkened
- Use the cap technique
- Use foils, a salon preferred method
- Use balyage/baliage, free hand painting color onto the hair
- Use colour bunz, select and separate precise pieces of hair to lighten or darken.
Ombre: lightening only the ends
(oxidative color is a product that uses oxygen to develop the color molecule)
It permanently alters natural color. It can lighten natural color up to 4 levels or
deepen natural color. It is good for gray coverage and wiill not lift out previously
dyed hair.
Ammonia or non-ammonia,
IMPORTANT
Permanent Color is oxidative.
Permanent color developers are 10, 20, 30, 40 ammonia. The higher the developer %,
the more lift possible. Lift is the process of removing color and lightening hair.
Permanent colors permanently alter natural hair color but will fade.
High lift Blonde products are oxidative, with or without ammonia. They are best
used for high lighting naturally light hair. They can lighten natural color up to 4 levels
and will permanently alter natural color. They will not lift out previously dyed hair. The
developer is 40 volume.
Decolorizers & Bleaches are oxidative with or without ammonia. They lift and
remove natural color and previously dyed hair. They can lift natural color up to 7
levels. These products give the most control for highlighting. Developers are 10, 20,
30, 40.
Hot Fashion Color: contain direct dyes. For best
results, pre-lighten hair, and then apply for bright
color. These colors fade quickly but often leave a
soft residue of tone.,
Vegetable Dyes: temporary, plant based. These
dyes can add depth, but cannot lighten. Gray hair
blending may be possible.
Henna. Permanent stain
Ammonia color vs non ammonia color: No copy
for this? Or does it belong somewhere above.
Currently writing it outl
WOW
What can prevent me from achieving the results I want?
IMPORTANT
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What should I check?
What is my hair density?
Density is the thickness or hair per square inch. (thin, medium, thick). The denser the
hair, more product will be used for complete saturation.
What is my hair texture?
Texture describes the type/feel of the hair strand. (fine, medium, coarse). The more
coarse the hair, the more product will be used for complete saturation.
What is my hair porosity?
Porosity is the hair ability to absorb water. Porosity indicates the health of the hair. All
hair is porous and has the ability to absorb water. Healthy hair’s bonds are strong, so
when it absorbs water it’s elastic. The hair will stretch and spring back. Unhealthy
hair’s bonds are weak. When wet, the hair has no elasticity and will snap and break.
It is important to know your hair’s porosity when choosing a color product. Do a simple
test… wet a strand of hair , gentle stretch a single strand… if it stretches and returns, it’s
healthy, if it quickly snaps and breaks, your hair is damaged…
What is my genetic disposition?
Our genetic background plays a part in how our hair
reacts to hair color. Our genes determine the pigments in our hair, as well as the texture and density of
our hair.
What other factors do I have to consider?
Do I have any other chemical treatments in my hair
such as relaxer smoothers, perms, straightening treatments?
When in doubt…. See a professional colorist!
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How to get the color you want.
Here’s how to work out your formula
Example You are a natural level 6 (using the hair level chart)
and you want to be a level 8 blonde
Take 8 x 2 = 16 , Subtract your natural level 6. This gives you a 10.
10 tells you to use a level 10 color.
Basic color formula example
Desired color level 8 (8 x 2 = 16) (2 is a constant)
Natural level 6
Subtract natural level from desired color level equation above.
16 - 6 = 10
Use a level 10 level dye
Let’s do one more with very different results.
You are a natural level 5 (see the hair level chart)
and you want to be a level 9 blonde,
Take 9 x 2 = 18, subtract your natural level 5 .
This gives you 13.
13 tells you, you have to use a bleach to become a level 9 blonde…
Basic color formulating
Desired color level 9 (9 x 2 = 18)
Natural level 5
Subtract the natural level from desired color level equation above.
18 - 5 = 13
Use a bleach or decolorizer for best results
Do The Math
Example
If the end result number is higher than 13, you must use a decolorizer or bleach for the
best results. The higher the percentage of gray/white hair, more neutral (ash) should be
put in the formula to avoid ‘hot roots’(warmer tones)
The more lift, the lighter color desired, the more warmth will be exposed. To control
warmth, add ash to the formula or to be safe, use a decolorizer or bleach
Hair
Hair is made of protein called ‘keratin’
Hair is the second fastest growing tissue in the body, bone marrow is #1
Hair grows approximately one half inch per month
Human hair’s life span is 3-7 years on average
Female’s hair grows slower than males
Hair loss averages 50-100 hairs per day
Hair grows faster in warmer weather… up to 10%
A strand of hair can tell if you smoke, drink, or take drugs, it can tell your ethnic
origin, it cannot identify your gender
Blonde hair has the most follicles (130,000),
Black hair (100,000), red hair (90,000)
Hair is actually dead material. If it were alive, a haircut would be painful!