Chartreuse - Braemoor.co.uk

A
Walking Guide to
Chartreuse
By
John Gardner
Printed from the website
http://braemoor.co.uk/chartreuse/
on
11th August 2016
Introduction
"The Grande Chartreuse has
exceeded my expectations; it is
more wonderfully wild than I can
describe, or even you can
imagine. It has possessed me to
such a degree, that I can at
present neither think, speak, nor
write upon any other subject."
William Beckford. 1778
Although the Massif de la Chartreuse (location map) was a
"must-visit" destination for the 18th century Grand Tourists
and had its virtues acclaimed by such luminaries as
Thomas Gray, William Beckford, William Wordsworth, and
J.M.W. Turner, it is now somewhat neglected by the British,
despite being one of the finest walking areas in France. It
does tend to be better known to cavers as it is also one of
the finest caving areas in France with several hundred
kilometres of caves explored in its 700 sq. kilometres, with
three systems exceeding 50 km in length.
It has lost little of its charm in the last 250 years, and in
1995 it was made a Regional Nature Park in recognition of
its scenic beauty and its cultural heritage, a status which was renewed in 2008.
The purpose of these web pages is to provide a source of information about the area in general,
and the walking in particular. Currently, some 32 walks are described, and more will be added as
and when time permits.
Note that the site has been designed to allow rapid down-loading, and so photographs and maps
are made available on separate pages. Photograph galleries are available, and you may browse
through the photographs used to illustrate the website (click on the photo to randomly select the
next).
This site has been developed using XHTML and Cascading Style Sheets, and may not display as
intended on older browsers. The pages are designed to be printer friendly, and only the main
content part of the page will be printed - without the title bar and the menu bar.
A PDF file (1.57 Mb) containing the print version of the website but without maps or
photographs, is available for download.
Do feel free to e-mail me with any questions or comments, and also to share your views on this
site, or on Chartreuse itself, in the Guest Book.
"Along the mystic streams of Life and Death."
William Wordsworth - Descriptive Sketches (1793)
Page 1
To Show Location of the Massif de la Chartreuse - Click to see map of Chartreuse region
Page 2
The Geography
"The desert of the Chartreuse is
wholly inaccessible but by one
exceedingly narrow defile. This
pass, which is only a few feet
wide, is indeed truly tremendous.
It winds between stupendous
granite rocks which overhang
above; and appear ready every
moment to fall with a dreadful
crash, and overwhelm the
awe-struck traveller. Indeed, the
crags above project so far beyond
the perpendicular; that they
appear literally suspended without
support."
The Massif de la Chartreuse is an elongated mountain
block some 45 kilometres long by 25 kilometres wide,
situated between Chambéry to the north, and Grenoble to
the south. The east flank falls abruptly almost 2,000
metres to the Isère valley, whilst to the west, the high
ground falls away towards the Rhône valley. It is separated
from the Vercors upland area to the south also by the Isère
river, which swings round to the west at Grenoble on its
way to the Rhône (regional map).
The high summits and ridges reach a little over 2,000
metres, whilst the main internal valleys lie at around 1,000
metres (see a Digital Elevation Model of the area).
The basic lithology of the region is relatively simple. The
lower and outer slopes are formed of limestones from the
Jurassic period, yellow and relatively soft. Above these lie
Cretaceous Hauterivian marls, consisting of a hundred
metres of so of black shale. The highest rocks of the area,
Dom Claude Lancelot. 1667
which give the region its appeal to walkers, climbers, and
cavers alike, are the massively bedded Cretaceous
Berrèmian limestones which are some 350 metres thick but appear much thicker as the result of
geological structures within the area. These were laid down as shallow marine carbonate
platforms on the northern flanks of the Tethys Ocean when sea levels were some 250 m higher
than they are today, at the same time that chalk was being deposited in deeper waters over
northern Europe. Rudist bivalves are the commonest fossil to be found in these limestones.
The region is part of a textbook example of an orogenic belt outer zone. It was elevated during
the Alpine Orogeny, which was the result of the Italian microplate colliding with the European
plate, some 45 million years ago. The resultant pressure from the south-east caused massive
thrusting and folding which has been a major influence on the structure of the regional
topography. The Massif is divided by a long, deep internal valley running from the col de Porte in
the south, to the col du Granier to the north. This valley is sub-divided between the two major
villages St. Pierre de Chartreuse to the south, and St. Pierre d'Entremont to the north, by the col
du Cucheron. The two basins thus formed drain westward from the two valleys through the
impressive gorges of the Guiers Mort in the south and the Guiers Vif in the north.
Above the internal valley, are a series of anticlinal ridges enclosing synclinal valleys which dip
down to the north and west, sometimes ending abruptly in impressive limestone cirques
overlooking the central valley. These include the Cirque de St. Même near St. Pierre
d'Entremont, and one at the head of the Perquelin valley near St. Pierre de Chartreuse.
There are a number of distinct summits which stand out from the ridges. The principal ones are
the three peaks of St. Pierre de Chartreuse - Chamechaude, the Grand Som, and Dent de
Crolles, which looks particularly impressive from the Isère valley, and there is also Mont Granier
which looms over Chambéry in the north.
Another set of impressive geological features that facilitate access to the tops are the series of
south-west north-east strike-slip faults that segment the massif. Thus, for example, the l'Alpe is
separated from its neighbours Mont Granier and l'Aup du Seuil by two such faults, both of which
are followed by important transhumance routes.
The climate is what one would expect in the pre-Alps. Although precipitation is spread fairly
evenly throughout the year, the highest precipitation months are from September to December,
with snow dominating from December to March. The driest and warmest summer months are
July and August.
Apart from the two St. Pierre's, the internal valleys are dotted with small rural communities. The
vernacular architecture is distinctive - the houses are square, with the walls constructed of
semi-dressed limestone with massive dressed coins, and the roofs hipped, tiled and slope
steeply, usually with skylights ventilating the roof space. The roof ridge is often decorated with
zinc ornamentation. The barns tend to have a base of stone with wooden upper walls, and steep
wooden roofs often shingle clad.
The main industries are pastoral farming, with herds of the beautiful native tarine (also known as
tarentaise) dairy cows, sheep and goats grazing the high alps, sustainable forestry and tourism.
The latter does include skiing but, thankfully, the development has not been overly intrusive, and
with the exception of poor Chamechaude, has been kept away from the main walking areas.
Page 3
Vineyards of the AOC Savoie wines may be found on the north-east slopes of the massif,
particularly around the villages of Abymes and Apremont. A variety of grapes are grown,
including the local Jacquère used for white wine, and Mondeuse used for red. Gamay is also
extensively grown.
Above the pastoral valleys, forested slopes rise up steeply towards steep cliffs. Above these may
be found a hidden world of high altitude plateaux and valleys, vegetated with grassland and
dwarf forest.
Page 4
Chartreuse Regional Map - Click to see Area Maps
Page 5
Guide Books and Maps
"But the road, West, the road!
winding round a prodigious
mountain, and surrounded with
others, all shagged with hanging
woods, obscured with pines, or
lost in clouds! Below, a torrent
breaking through cliffs, and
tumbling through fragments of
rocks! Sheets of cascades forcing
their silver speed down
channelled precipices, and hasting
into the roughened river at the
bottom!"
Horace Walpole. 1739
French mapping compares favourably with the best. The
French equivalent of the Ordnance Survey, the Institute
Géographic National, have the whole country covered in a
number of different scales, including the orange 1:50,000
series, and the blue 1:25,000 series. The latter are also
supplied in tourist editions for the major walking areas.
The accuracy of the maps is reliable, and the presentation
is excellent, with the subtle shadowing on the blue series
being particularly useful, although the colours are a little
more vivid than those used by the Ordnance Survey.
The Chartreuse area is covered by two special 1:25,000
IGN maps, 3333 OT, and 3334 OT, covering the north and
south of the Chartreuse Massif respectively. These
highlight the major footpaths, and are highly
recommended. They are not expensive (£11.95 in July
2016), and may be obtained locally, or from our Amazon
shop. A waterproofed version is also available for £14.99.
The one serious criticism that has been levelled against these maps in the past, is that they have
not been overlaid with a survey grid, making grid references difficult to use. However, since
1999, the TOP 25 walking maps are gradually being re-published with a kilometre square grid
superimposed to make them more "GPS friendly". See below for further details.
A digital version of the TOP 25 map for the whole of France is also available from Memory-Map
for about £160 (July 2016). I find this invaluable for planning walks, and for tracing routes for
this website.
1:50,000 geological maps are also available from the BRGM. These are expensive (€35.50 in
September 2012), and four (748, 749, 772, and 773) are required to cover the whole of the
massif. 748 is probably the most useful.
One interesting variation on the theme of maps is a series of "Photoguides de Randonnée"
published by the Société de Recherches et d'Etudes Aériennes. These are pamphlets containing
aerial photographs of the hills with the main walking routes superimposed on them. They also
include brief descriptions of the routes. Whilst being of little value as either maps or guides, they
are an excellent means of getting across the salient features of the topography. There are five
available in the Chartreuse series costing €7.63 for the set (July 2004), and if encountered, they
should be snapped up.
In recent years, a number of French walking guides for the area have been published. My
favourite without doubt is Randonnées en Chartreuse by Pascal Sombardier, available for under
£10. This is a splendid little paperback which covers some twenty of the best, but not too
extreme, walks in Chartreuse. Each walk is beautifully illustrated with a clear sketch map and
some excellent photos. It is strongly recommended, and if you are going to buy but one local
guidebook it should be this one. Bear in mind, however that it covers the same ground as the
walks on this website, and he avoids the more exciting bits.
Another I am able to endorse is Chartreuse, Randonnées Pédestres Pour Tous", by Antoine Salvi
available for about €9.45 (September 2002). This is a clearly laid out book which communicates
the nature of the routes pretty well, and is also sensibly priced. Unfortunately, the print edition is
now difficult to get hold of, but a web version is available.
Also recommended, but not as a guide book for those who are on their first visit, is "Chartreuse Vercors: Les Randonées du Vertige" by Pascal Sombardier (£22.37 in September 2012). This
describes some of the more exciting walks as well as some of the local via ferrata, and includes
some superb photographs. Another book by the same author, "Chartreuse inédite : Itinéraires
Insolites", is also a must for the bookshelf, but has the same provisos.
The latest addition to those available is "Chartreuse Secrète et Randonnées Sportive" by Jo
Perez, published in 2008. This is a glossy softback rather expensively priced at £13.94
(September 2012). I have strong reservations about some of the routes that he selects, but they
are complemented by a variety of interesting little essays about various aspects of the massif
which make it worth buying.
There is a selection of books available from our Amazon shop.
Finally, you should also not forget that access to the Google Earth satellite photography is
available both through the web and as a stand-alone utility.
Page 6
GPS and the Chartreuse TOP 25 Maps
As mentioned above, the TOP 25 series walking maps are being republished with a kilometre
square grid superimposed to make them more "GPS friendly". To use a GPS unit in conjunction
with the map, first ensure that your map has the words "Compatible GPS" printed on the cover,
which shows that it has the superimposed grid. You should then ensure that the grid of the GPS
unit is set to UTM, and that the map datum is set to WGS 84. Note that the whole of Chartreuse
lies in the UTM 31T zone.
Page 7
An Overview of the Walking
"In our little journey up to the
Grande Chartreuse, I do not
remember having gone ten paces
without an exclamation that there
was no restraining: Not a
precipice, not a torrent, not a cliff,
but is pregnant with religion and
poetry."
Chartreuse offers magnificent walking. It is not the
exhilarating walking of the Chamonix glaciers, nor the
long, lonely multi-day treks offered by the Pyrenean hills,
but nevertheless, in its own way, it is as fine as both. It
was justifiably described by Stendhal as "l'émeraude des
Alpes" - the emerald of the Alps. It has four tops over
2,000 m.
The area is best suited for day walks, rather than for
back-packing. This is largely because the dominant
topography is one of long, but narrow limestone ridges,
Thomas Gray. 1739
which does not lend itself to circular tours. Moreover, being
limestone, there is little water in the hills, and the valleys
are too populated for wild camping. Having said that, there is the circular Tour de Chartreuse
which, although taking advantage of the few mountain huts available, does tend to finish each
section in a community.
Typically, a walk will start in the forest, often to the accompaniment of a stream which will be
found later emerging from a spring or cave. The forests are very beautiful, and fairly damp and
cool, but with little visibility. Getting through the forest can be a long process, as one climbs 600
metres or so, but the paths are usually well made and easy going. The transition from forest to
meadow is foreshadowed by tall pines being replaced by smaller spruce and dwarf birch, but
nevertheless, tends to be abrupt. The emergence into the sunshine of the alpine meadows, often
with the heat being reflected off the limestone cliffs above, is always welcomed. In the spring
and early summer, up to mid-August, it is the flora which overwhelms.
Above the 200 metres of so of meadow, are the cliffs protecting the plateaux above. These tend
to be dramatic, rising vertically for up to 350 metres, and at first sight, seem to be
insurmountable. If there are any exposed or scrambly sections, they are likely to be in this
section. Some of the routes through the cliffs are positively exciting. Above the cliffs, are the
plateau areas. Although there are positive mountain summits in the area, such as Chamechaude
and Dent de Crolles, these are the exception rather than the rule. Generally, one surmounts the
cliffs to find high-altitude, long synclinal valleys. But there is no feeling of anticlimax, for these
valleys are exquisite. The sides are dominated by large expanses of steep limestone pavement,
and the floors are covered with a mixture of dwarf woodland, and meadows. They are a delight
to wander through. It is usually possible to descend via an alternative route back to the starting
point.
Many walks in Chartreuse include a section of sangle. The cliffs in Chartreuse are often
separated by steep grass terraces, and the sangle paths follow these terraces, sometimes
because they are the only feasible way up, and sometimes just for the hell of it. These paths
typically follow a thin line beneath upper cliffs, and have a steep grassy slope falling away
towards lower cliffs, and they can be very exposed. Whilst they can be traversed with safety by
those who have a reasonable head for heights. it would be very difficult to protect those who are
unhappy in such situations. The grades given to routes in this guide do take into account the
exposure factor.
Over the past few years, the PNRC have been undertaking a program of footpath repair, and
signposting. Both are very positive steps, but it does mean that new signposts may appear, and
old ones removed since a walk was described. The fixed aids on some of the steeper and more
exposed sections of the popular paths are also being replaced and extended. This can make a
walk easier than indicated.
One word of warning. Forestry is much more mechanised than it used to be, and tracks are now
created rather brutally in the lower woods. These sometimes obscure the traditional paths, and
the routes described here may require interpretation if the machines have been there since the
author. It is unfortunate that the PNRC aren't influencing the forestry activities a little more especially as tourism is probably worth a lot more to the local economy than the forestry.
Finally, just for fun, here is a list of my favourite walks in each of the major areas (in some sort
of order):
1. l'Aup Seuil - The Roman Inscription via the Pas de Mort
2. Chamechaude - The Summit via the Jardin
3. l'Alpe - via the Fouda Blanc sangle
4. Grande Sure - The Summit via the West Chimney
5. Dent de Crolles - The Summit via the Guiers Mort
Page 8
6. Mont Granier - from Bellecombe via the Pas de l'Alpette
7. Charmant Som - from Porte d'Enclos, Valombré
8. Grand Som - from la Correrie
I don't expect anybody to agree with me!
The Grading and Timings
Two gradings are used to classify the walks: the first is
used as an indicator of the difficulty, and the second of the
"This web site is intended as
quality. Both gradings are inevitably subjective, as one
guidance for the wise, not for
person's exposure may be another person's view, and one
blind obedience by fools."
person's scramble may be another person's rock climb, but
it is hoped that they do have a consistency. It should be
noted, however, that the author cannot take responsibility for other people's decision making in
the hills. This web site is intended to serve as guidance for the wise, not for blind obedience by
fools.
The difficulty is graded 1, 2, or 3. Grade 1 indicates general mountain terrain, the type that you
will find on any typical British hill. Grade 2 is used where the walk contains sections where some
scrambling is required, and / or there is some exposure encountered. Striding Edge and Tryfan
would probably merit such a grading. Grade 3 is used where the scrambling may be awkward, or
where exposure becomes a significant factor. The Anoch Eagach in Glen Coe, or many of the
non-climbing sections on the Cuillin Ridge would qualify as Grade 3. In Chartreuse, however, the
more difficult sections tend to be very short. The descriptions do highlight those sections which
were considered to merit an elevated grading.
The quality is graded from one star (*) to three stars (***). Such a classification is even more
subjective than the difficulty, and such is the quality of the walking in the area, it is difficult not
to give top marks to everything! However, the walks described are a selection, and one star
walks have been excluded.
Two types of timings are used in the descriptions. The timings between landmarks are based on
steady walking, and are intended to be of help with navigation. The total timings for the walk,
and for the ascent and descent are intended to indicate elapsed times, inclusive of meal breaks,
and the occasional break to rest the legs, take a photograph, or identify a flower. These are not
intended to be super accurate, and have been rounded up or down as the whim dictates.
Providing you set off at a reasonably early hour, all walks described can be completed in time to
enjoy a late afternoon beer at your favourite café.
Page 9
Equipment Required
"Essential items of navigation
equipment are the IGN 1:25,000
map, a compass, and the ability
and willingness to use them
both."
Assuming you are walking between June and September
inclusive, you need to take the same sort of equipment as
you would on British hills in summer. When the weather is
good, it can be hot, although one can find a chilly breeze
on the ridges. Poor weather tends to be established by the
early morning, so if you really want to cavort on the high
tops in wet and cold conditions, you can make sure that
you're properly prepared.
Clothing should be light-weight. For the warmer days shorts, t-shirt, and sun hat will suffice,
although we also take a spare shirt, and a light-weight wind-proof / shower-proof jacket. For the
cooler days, trousers and a couple of layers for the chest are adequate. Light-weight walking
shoes with a good sole are well-suited to the terrain. Thunderstorms with heavy and cold rain
are not uncommon in the late afternoon, but at the very worst you should be on your way down
by then so light-weight waterproofs are adequate. Gaiters are not needed, but we do take gloves
and a warm hat (although they rarely see the light of day).
Essential items of navigation equipment are the IGN 1:25000 map, a compass, and the ability
and willingness to use them both. If one of the party is a little unhappy with scrambling, a short
length of 8 mm rope will be useful for providing that extra bit of confidence. A decent head torch
is useful for exploring the odd cave, and for getting down after dark if you have under-estimated
a walk. We are not devotees of walking poles, or of the incessant click-clack that accompany
them, but I suspect that having to manage two on the sangles and scrambles would be positively
dangerous.
Water is important - there are few places to replenish your bottle in the hills, so you should take
at least a litre per person. Some food, a camera, and a decent alpine flower book should fill up
the remaining space in your small rucsac.
Sheep Dogs
Some of the upland flocks, such as on the Grand Som around the Habert Bovinant, have large
guard dogs protecting them. These can look formidable, but they don't pose a threat to walkers
exhibiting common sense. There are two things to be aware of. Firstly, try not to walk through a
tightly grouped flock of sheep. If the sheep are subsequently scattered, any dog that might be
around may think that the sheep are being threatened and react accordingly. Secondly, if you
are approached by a dog, stand still and talk gently to it (any language will do!). It will probably
come up to you and take a sniff - feel free to offer the back of your hand but don't make any
sudden movements. After a few seconds it will decide that you are no threat, and go back to its
duties. Do not shout, run, make any other sudden movements, or raise your walking poles.
Page 10
Not to be Missed and Other Activities
Chartreuse has more than walking to offer the visitor. This page lists a few of the things that
shouldn't be missed. Links for some of the places may be found on the web links page.
Chambéry: Chambéry has a superb medieval centre which is well worth a visit.
St.-Hugues: The church of Saint-Hugues, a couple of kilometres outside St. Pierre de Chartreuse,
has some wonderful modern sacred art created by the local artist Jean-Marie Pirot, also known
as Arcabas, between 1953 and 1991. His 'Angel on a Bicycle' is an absolute joy.
Musée de la Grande Chartreuse: Although access is not possible to the Grande Chartreuse
monastery, there is a museum close by which is well worth a morning's visit. A self-guided tour
costing €8.50 (2014), it provides an insight into the history of the order, as well as the life style
of the monks.
Grenoble: La Bastille is well worth half a day's exploration (but not on July 14th!).
The Sardinian Way and Les Grottes des Echelles: The former is a superb piece of 17th Century
engineering through a gorge that was once the main route between Chambéry and Lyon. The
latter are a couple of show caves, one located near the head of the gorge, and one near the foot.
Musée de l'Ours des Cavernes en Chartreuse: This modern and well designed museum in
Entremont-le-Vieux (which for some reason the IGN insist on calling Epernay!) was specifically
created to exhibit some of the large number of cave bear skeletons discovered in the Grotte de
la Balme à Collomb in 1998, and their context. It is well worth a visit - especially if you have
previously climbed Mont Granier via the cave.
Le Chateau: The small hamlet of le Chateau above St. Pierre d'Entremont boasts the ruins of a
fine castle dating from the beginning of the fourteenth century. This once massive structure was
put to fire on the orders of Richelieu in 1633. From it are fine views to the east.
Le Fort du St. Eynard: This is a beautifully restored 19th Century fort a couple of kilometres
south of le Sappey, which is perched on the cliffs a thousand metres above Grenoble. As well as
being worth visiting in its own right, the views from the fort and the cliff-top walks are
tremendous - well worth a detour on a visit to Grenoble. Unfortunately, the classic way up via
the exciting Pas Guiguet was closed by the Commune in 2006 because of the risk of rock fall.
Tartes aux noix: A regional delicacy made with walnuts in a bed of caramel, sold in the St. Pierre
de Chartreuse boulangerie, and probably in many other places. Scrumptious! If staying in St.
Pierre de Chartreuse, it is well worth making it your mission to work your way through the
offerings of the boulangerie, as the variety and quality of the produce is superb.
The Local Tourist Information Offices: As well as being mines of useful information, with libraries
of local books for reference and a daily weather forecast on display, they often have an internet
link available, enabling you to print out your chosen walk from this site on the day you go!
Via Ferrata: For those who have both the expertise and the equipment, there are five via ferrata
in the area. The via ferrata de Roche Veyrand is to be found north-east of St. Pierre
d'Entremont; the via ferrata les Prises de la Bastille is to be found within the grounds of the
Bastille on the outskirts of Grenoble; the via ferrata de Saint Vincent de Mercuze is to be found
above Montalieu adjacent to the Cascade d'Alloix; and the Vire des Lavandières and le Grande
Dièdre are to be found close to the funicular near Crolles.
Climbing The scope for climbing in the area is obviously huge, but there are also some bolted
cliffs in the area where one can practise in relative safety.
Canyoning: Again, for those who have both the expertise and the equipment, there are a
number of equipped canyons in the area.
Page 11
Credentials
One of the problems with the web is that the quality of information is variable, and it is
necessary to give sites a "credibility check" before placing too much confidence in their contents.
This section is intended to provide the reader with some of the background to the development
of the site, so that he may make his own judgements.
The author first visited Chartreuse in 1968 as a member of a university caving expedition to the
Cirque de St. Même area. His second visit was in 1980 when he went caving within the Dent de
Crolles massif. Since then, he has visited the area every two or three years for two to three
week long holidays, mainly walking but also including the occasional caving trip. He has spent in
total well over a year in the area. Visits have been confined to the period between late May and
September.
This site was first developed in 1998, and has since been continually reviewed and enhanced as
a result of further visits to the area, feedback from readers, and the availability of enhanced
technology (of which there have been quite a few since 1998!). The last significant update was in
August 2016.
Updating
The author is confident in the accuracy of most of the information contained herein. The walks
on the hills don't change much, but the Regional Park Authority is investing in new car parks,
and sign-posting, so that level of detail can change from year to year. Forestry is also on a more
industrial scale than it used to be, and some of the traditional paths on the lower slopes of the
hills have been ruthlessly destroyed by forestry tracks. Readers are often kind enough to let him
know of any inaccuracies or ambiguities they find.
The availability and prices of maps and literature is checked as often as is practical from
web-based sources, and all hyperlinks are checked regularly using an in-house developed PHP
transaction.
Site References
The following sites local to Chartreuse provide a link to this site, without comment:
The Club Aqualien de Spéléologie et d'Alpinisme web site.
The pistehors.com site for backcountry skiing and snowboarding.
The following are some of the sites that currently link or have linked to this site, with a
comment. Those without a hyperlink are no longer active:
ScanMaps – a Danish provider of maps and books: "en hjemmeside med rigtig mange
gode turbeskrivelser og links til andre klatre - og vandresider."
Franceonfoot.com – a web site that does what it says on the label: "a thorough and
informative [site] dedicated to walking in the Chartreuse region... This is a fine source of
information for the walker."
A Dutch walking site – "Een Engelse site met veel informatie over dagtochten in de
Chartreuse is ook zeer de moeite waard, met schitterende foto's."
A Dutch PDF file devoted to sangle walking says: "behoorlijke complete Engelstalige site
over wandelen in de Chartreuse."
Les Petits Curieux – a site devoted to the Grenoble area: "Randonnées en Chartreuse et
en Anglais. Très précis."
Villa Marie-Louise – a web site for accomodation near the centre of St. Pierre de
Chartreuse: "There is a wealth of information on the internet about walks in the region,
including the comprehensive Walking Guide to Chartreuse by John Gardner available at
http://www.braemoor.co.uk/chartreuse/."
La Grange – a web site for a local gîte owned by Norman Clark: "A superbly informative
UK site which describes many walks in the Chartreuse."
Keyhole Caving Club (link disappeared) – "an invaluable and well-researched resource."
Henck Joly's world wide walking portal: "A very complete and well presented description
of this area."
The Virtual Tourist – a site that allows users to provide their comments on an area: "Here
is a site that has a lot of information."
Page 12
La Chartroussine – a web site for a local gîte owned by Philippe Locatelli: "A superbly
informative UK site which describes many walks and the geography of the Chartreuse. A
must to visit."
Slackpacker – an American hiking web site owned by Rick Bolger says somewhat
grudgingly: "Site is quite informative."
An entry in the rec.climbing.uk forum by Martin Carpenter says: "This anglophone site is
excellent for Chartreuse."
Andy Bryant is based in Grenoble and has a hiking web site in which he says that this is
"an extensive walking guide to the region."
Comments from readers may be found in the Guest Book.
Technical Notes
This site uses XHTML and makes extensive use of Cascading Style Sheets, and hence assumes a
reasonably modern browser. The site has been checked for compatibility with MS IE V5.0 and
later; Opera V6 and later; Netscape V6 and later; Mozilla 1.3 and later; Google Chrome 1.0 and
later; and Safari 3.2 and later - all under MS Windows.
The CSS and HTML code is validated using the W3C markup validation service. Links are checked
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maps or photographs, is available for download.
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank Dave Checkley, Peter Monk, Stuart Hesletine, and Graham Coates for the
use of their underground photographs taken in the Grotte Chevalier, the Grotte Annette, the
Guiers Vif, the Trou du Glaz, and the Guiers Mort, and also for their company in those caves. I
would also like to thank John Sellers and Peter Schuller for the use of their photographs, and a
number of correspondents who have been kind enough to comment constructively on the route
descriptions. Finally, I would like to thank my wife, Mary Carlisle, to whom this web site is
dedicated, who has been the perfect companion on our walks, and who loves the area as much
as I do.
Copyright © John Gardner 1998–2016
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Page 13
Walks on la Grande Sure (1920 m)
It is easy to neglect la Grande Sure. It fails to reach the magical height of 2,000 m; it is
somewhat tucked away from the rest of the massif being on the western edge; and it is not easy
to get to from the main centres. Moreover, when seen from a distance, it doesn't look
particularly interesting, seemingly being a mass of forest-covered lapiaz rising to an
indeterminate summit. For those people who do make the effort to get to know it from close
quarters, however, it is a delightful place of secret valleys and beautiful forests.
La Grande Sure is part of a huge area, stretching from St. Laurent-du-Pont in the north to
Grenoble in the south, and from the Col de la Charmette in the east to Voreppe in the west
(map). Most of the outer sections are forest covered slopes, but the centre part has a long rocky
anticlinal ridge stretching for some 6 kilometres north to south, of which la Grande Sure is the
highest point. Yet further east is an equally long exquisite valley bound by the main ridge to the
west, and another smaller, but vertical set of cliffs to the east. To the east of that is a kilometre
or so of complex forested lapiaz that is a delight to walk through.
Of the four walks described, the first makes a directissima ascent of the west cliffs of la Grande
Sure, and involves a Grade 2 scramble, and the second is a delightfully relaxing walk that
explores the central valley. The other two are two circular walks that explore the southern half of
the massif. There are many more walks to be had in the area.
Ascent via the West Chimney
Col d'Hurtières, via the Pas de l'Aronde
Page 14
Rocher de Lorzier
A Tour of the Valley
La Grande Sure via the West Chimney
Starting point: les Trois Fontaines
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 1140 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: ***
There are easier ways to ascend la Grande Sure, but this route (map) provides a satisfying
circuit and a superb little scramble onto the summit, as well as providing an excellent
introduction to the area.
The walk starts from les Trois Fontaines (780 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 70999 50227). This is
approached from la Placette, a small village between Voreppe and St. Laurent-du-Pont. The road
up to the car park is narrow, with the last kilometre being on a reasonably-surfaced forest track.
From this road, one can see into the impressive cirque rising up behind les Trois Fontaines.
A signposted track leads into the forest from the south end of the car park. This quickly turns
into a good path which zig-zags its way up the steep slopes. Our route leaves the main path
after half an hour on the left just after a zig-zag crossing of a forest slide. After climbing steadily
through the forest for some twenty minutes the path ascends a steep slope almost directly by
means of a series of rocky steps. The route is a little ambiguous in places, but as long as you
keep out of the trees you should be all right.
At the top the angle eases, and a positive path enters the trees and ascends a wooded ridge.
There are a couple of bifurcations - but in both cases both branches rejoin. When the path
divides in front of a rock wall it is better to keep right, and when the path ahead widens into a
bit of a muddy sprawl, it is better to keep left. Forty minutes after reaching the ridge, a fence
which marks the boundary of the alpine pastures below the impressive summit cliffs is crossed.
The Cabane de Jusson soon comes into view.
From the cabin, the summit cross may be seen crowning the western cliffs. Immediately below
the cross is a prominent gully - this is our way to the top. The best way to reach this is to climb
directly up towards it. You will soon meet a path, but do be careful about being led astray by
sheep trods traversing the flanks. If in doubt, just make way your way straight up.
The base of the cliffs is reached after some 30 minutes of steep ascent. There are a couple of
gullies, but the correct one may be readily identified by the path entering it, and by a red and
yellow arrow pointing into it. The path ascends the gully easily at first, but then comes to a 10 m
high rock barrier. This is a steep but easy scramble (Difficulty 2) where a rope may engender
confidence in the less experienced. Above this the path winds its way up the rest of the gully to
join the crest barely 50 m from the small summit cross after a three hour ascent.
As always, the views from the summit are superb, but one is also impressed by the size and
complexity of the Grande Sure massif, and how isolated it is from its neighbours.
From the top, it is possible to make one's way down the south ridge, but it is far more pleasant
to follow the main path into the internal valley below. This follows a line to the north at first, and
then drops down towards the Col de la Sure (1675 m), which is one of the two major cols that
divides the internal valley.
This internal valley lying immediately to the east of la Grande Sure summit is awesomely
beautiful. It is some 6 kilometres long, partitioned into three sections by a couple of cols, and is
bound on one side by the massive flanks of la Grande Sure and the Rocher de Lorzier to the
west, and by a line of rocky ramparts to the east. It is mainly a mixture of small woods and
summer pasture supporting several herds of cattle
Turning right at the col, another junction is reached after 50 m with our way being signposted les
Trois Fontaines. This path makes its way down the central valley through dwarf pine and little
ravines, until it reaches la Velouse (1500 m) - one of the main access routes into the valley, and
where the route down the south ridge rejoins. Turning right through the fence leads to a stony
track descending steeply. This relents after some ten minutes, and we shortly reach the Combe
des Veaux junction, which is the start of an alternative route to the Cabane de Jusson.
Fifteen easy minutes later, having passed a junction to the left, the views start to open up and
the path morphs into the Pas de Miséricorde - one of the highlights of the day. This superbly
made section of path follows a ledge system along the cliffs, and although there is some mild
exposure (Difficuly 2), the path is so well made there is no objective danger, and it is equipped
with a cable to reassure the nervous. It's airy, and it's great fun.
A few minutes later a belvédère is reached, with a fine view across the cirque to a small thrust
fault - it's a good place to sit and enjoy the view.
After a further fifteen minutes we pass a junction where our ascent path is rejoined, and the car
is reached twenty minutes later, some two hours after leaving the summit.
Page 15
La Grande Sure: A Tour of the Internal Valley
Starting point: Chalet Col de la Charmette
Difficulty: 1
Ascent: 600 m
Time: 4½ hrs
Quality: **
This is not a long walk, taking not much more than half a day, and it is technically very straight
forward. It is, however, an absolute delight, and is best left for a warm day when limbs are
weary from previous efforts and the opportunity to have a stress-free stroll through some
wonderful terrain will be a welcome relief.
The route goes up to the Col de la Petite Vache from the col de la Charmette, traverses the
internal valley to the south, and returns via the Col d'Hurtière (map). If you would like to make
it a slightly longer day, you could combine it easily with an ascent of la Grande Sure. This will
probably add 1½ hours to the day.
The walk starts from the Chalet Col de la Charmette where there is a PNRC parking area
(1270 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 71465 50227). The path starts by climbing up behind the chalet on a
modern forestry track, and for the first 20 minutes is steep and stony. There are a couple of
junctions, and you should keep right at both.
Once past the second junction, the path becomes a lot more pleasant and the gradient eases. At
the same time, the terrain becomes more open, and one finds oneself wandering through a
wonderland of flowery glades, lapiaz, and small cliffs.
Fifty minutes after leaving the chalet, the col de la Petite Vache is reached. In front, the path
drops down into the internal valley, whilst opposite the flanks of the la Grande Sure rise up
steeply, with the summit off to the left. This is a good place for breakfast.
We now head for the Col de la Sure, which is some 25 minutes off to the left. A few metres
beyond the col we turn left at a division of the ways. The path then traverses the flanks of the
valley, past a further junction with a path going off down towards la Velouse at a big boulder.
Behind, the southern cliffs of la Grande Sure can be seen to good effect. Soon after, another
path descends down to the refuge below, and our path begins to rise up towards the col
d'Hurtière. A fence is crossed some 50 minutes after leaving the col de la Grande Sure and the
views suddenly open up towards Charmant Som and Chamechaude to the east, and towards the
white cliffs of the Rochers de Chalves to the south.
The best way on is to follow the path up to the right alongside the fence. This leads to the col
d'Hurtière proper (1740 m), and the path then gently descends into the continuation of the
valley to a signposted junction under the Rochers de Chalves. This is is the Prairie de Pararey
(1655 m). Our way turns left here descending the valley through the pasture to enter the forest
some 15 minutes later.
The next hour is an easy but exquisite walk along an undulating path through the forest-covered
lapiaz, which returns you directly to the car park and a well earned beer at the bar.
Page 16
Grande Sure: Col d'Hurtières, via Pas de l'Aronde
Starting point: les Trois Fontaines
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 1,000 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: **
Although the summit of la Grande Sure could be reached on this walk, there are better ways of
getting to the top and this walk is satisfying in its own right without the necessity of having such
a prominent objective. It explores two fine routes into the massif, and is guaranteed to please. It
ascends into the massif via la Pas de l'Aronde to reach the col d'Hurtières, and returns via the
Pas de Miséricorde (map).
The walk starts from les Trois Fontaines (780 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 70996 50227). This is
approached from la Placette, a small village between Voreppe and St. Laurent-du-Pont. The road
up to the car park is narrow, with the last 850 m being on a reasonably-surfaced forest track.
From this road, one can see into the impressive cirque rising up behind les Trois Fontaines.
We need to backtrack along the track which we have just driven, and turn left at the first
junction towards the small community of les Reynauds which is reached after quarter of an hour.
Despite being on the road, this introductory section of the walk is surprisingly pleasant.
Normally, walks in Chartreuse start with a vicious climb, but this time muscles are allowed to
warm up, and there are fine views across the hay fields to the softer hills of the western part of
the massif.
Once past les Reynaud the road becomes a track, passes below a hay field, and gently descends
round the head of a small valley before ascending steeply to a signpost at Cotta Bois (825 m),
where we are directed to go straight ahead. Two minutes later the way divides and our route is
up the steeply ascending track to the left. This soon develops into a pleasant forest path which
after a further half an hour reaches some cliffs which it meanders up through weaknesses and
along narrow ledges. This is the Pas d'Aronde, and is wonderful walking, although a little
exposed in places (Difficulty 2). We once found a fossil ammonite embedded in a limestone
pebble on this section. Towards the top it ascends steeply up a scree slope towards a gully,
which is a little wearing.
The end of the steep section of the pas d'Aronde is marked by a signpost pointing to a
belvédère, reached some 45 minutes after starting our ascent through the forest. Note that the
position of this belvédère seems to be misplaced on the IGN map.The views from here are
spectacular with les Reynauds directly below, and the plains disappearing into the distance
towards Lyon. In the foreground one can see across the Trois Fontaines cirque to a similar
belvédère which we will visit on our descent.
From the belvédère the way ascends easily through the forest on a subsidiary ridge, before
turning east onto a major ridge. This section is level and a little muddy in places, but passes
through some exquisite orchid glades before emerging on to the Prairie de Charminelle - an
abandoned pasture. The problem with such places is that they get overgrown - to the extent that
identifying the path can become a problem. Fortunately, 2.5 m high marker posts have been
emplaced which makes route finding less of a problem, but you will still get ambushed by the
occasional nettle and bramble. On the plus side, the flora and insect life are a joy.
After a few minutes of fighting the rampant vegetation, we reach a sign-posted junction marked
as Charminelle (1505 m), with paths going off on either side of the ridge, and ours going straight
on. Our next target is to get through the crest looming above, and although it looks a steep,
formidable proposition, the way up the grass slopes is surprisingly easy and not nearly so far as
it looks. It is, moreover, one of those floral wonderlands where every step is a delight.
Once the cliffs are reached, the path ascends through a chimney where some use of hands is
required, to emerge on the crest (1790 m) an hour after leaving the junction below. This is an
excellent place for lunch which allows the new vista that has been opened up to be enjoyed to
the full. Before us are the pastures of the internal valley of la Grande Sure, and behind them
Chamechaude, Charmant Som, and Dent de Crolles can be seen in all their glory.
It is now down hill all the way back to the car. Following the fence reaches a junction at the col
d'Hurtières, where we turn left. The paths in this area have been well ploughed up by the many
herds of docile cattle, and the precise line underfoot is not always clear. However, the general
direction is to make your way down to the refuge d'Hurtières in the valley floor, and then follow
the valley down to the end of the southern ridge of la Grande Sure. Eventually, you will arrive at
la Velouse (1500 m) - one of the main access routes into the valley. Turning left through the
fence leads onto a steeply descending stony track which eases after some ten minutes.
Fifteen easy minutes later, having passed a junction to the left which leads back to Charminelle,
the views start to open up and the path morphs into the Pas de Miséricorde - one of the
highlights of the day. This superbly made section of path follows a ledge system through the
Page 17
cliffs, and although there is some mild exposure (Difficuly 2), the path is so well made there is
no objective danger, and it is equipped with a cable to reassure the nervous. It's airy, and great
fun.
A few minutes later a belvédère is reached which we had looked across at on the way up. This
has a fine view across the cirque to a small thrust fault - it's a good place to sit and enjoy the
view.
Following the path down, the car park will be reached within another 35 minutes.
Page 18
Grande Sure: Les Bannettes from Monastère de Chalais
Starting point: Monastère de Chalais
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 1,000 m
Time: 6½ hrs
Quality: **
This walk explores the south-west flanks of the massif - les Bannettes and the Roche de Lorzier
(map). It only reaches a maximum height of 1790 m, but as with other routes on the Grande
Sure most of the walking is an absolute delight. It also links up nicely with the Pas de l'Aronde
walk, allowing one to develop a fuller understanding of the geography of the area.
The walk starts from Monastère de Chalais (950 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 70991 50189), a convent
which is approached from Voreppe. The road forks as it approaches the convent - the left branch
leads to a car park behind the buildings, where there is an information board and lots of sign
posts.
The walk starts on a forest track heading south which after a few minutes morphs into a
gradually descending path. It's always nice for muscles to be able to warm up gently on a walk
in Chartreuse, rather than having to slog immediately up an horrendous incline. After half an
hour there is a junction, where, in common with the rest of the walk, you take the left hand
option. This takes you onto a pleasant traverse beneath some cliffs before reaching the "la
Cheminée" - a rake which ascends steeply through the crags at the end of the ridge. There is a
large drop and impressive views to the right but it is well protected with sturdy guard wires.
Beyond the chimney, the path crosses over the ridge and drops down through a forest rich in
holly trees to the first of several junctions where the left hand route is selected each time (all
other roads seem to lead to Mont St. Martin!). A forest track is somewhat tediously followed
up-hill for half an hour or so, to where is rises steeply through an old meadow now taken over by
raspberry canes. From this point the track seems to have been used for transhumance rather
than forestry, and the walking becomes more interesting.
Half an hour after leaving the meadow, the ridge is reached and the forest gives way to flowery
grasslands, juniper, and distant prospects as we emerge onto the upland pastures of les
Bannettes to reach a fence, where a path turns off for the summit of the Rocheurs des Chalves.
A few metres further on there is a little knoll on the left which is a splendid place for lunch and to
recover from the grind of the last hour or so. It takes about three hours to reach this point from
the car park. Below, to the west, there is a fine view of the Isère river as it sweeps round the
north-east corner of the Vercors, and ahead the north the cliffs of the Rocheur de Lorzier can be
seen to fine effect.
The path continues easily towards the Chalet des Bannettes, a small unwardened refuge tucked
under the cliffs around which cattle can often be found grazing. The next target is the Col
d'Hurtiéres, which is one of the two cols which divides the Grande Sure internal valley into three
sections. Continuing past the cabin, a valley comes into view on the right with views of
Charmant Som peeping through, and once through another fence, there is a junction with the
path coming up through from the col de la Charmette. We keep going, rising steadily through the
pasture, and eventually reach the col (1740 m), some 30 minutes after leaving the refuge,
where we are presented with a fine view of the southern flanks of the Grande Sure.
Turning left up the fence, the Cheminée du Lorzier is reached within five minutes. This is a
disconcertingly steep descent through the cliffs down a gully. It requires the use of hands, but it
is easy enough (Difficulty 2). Once down the gully, the path sweeps down a flowery hillside onto
a forested narrow ridge before arriving at the abandoned pastures of Charminelle (1505 m).
This is a major cross-roads, and we turn left down the abandoned pasture into the shade of the
forest, where a source is passed after five minutes. After a further 20 minutes the sounds of a
river can be heard, and before long the path is running above the Charminelle stream. This is a
superb section of path, with some wonderful flowers, outstanding viws of the cliff above, and the
stream cascading over some impressive waterslides below.
The path crosses over the stream three times in the course of the next 30 minutes, the last of
which is adjacent to a splendid waterfall with tufa covered walls. The stream disappears from
sight, and the path crosses a subsidiary stream, which drops steeply into a gorge, and follows a
narrow protected path, from which there are dramatic views of the Charminelle stream plunging
some 100 metres or so into the gorge. Once beyond this, 20 minutes of easy going leads to a
junction with a forestry track at the Abri de la Roize, another small unwardened refuge. The car
park may be found a further 20 minutes down the track.
Page 19
Walks on Charmant Som (1867 m)
Charmant Som is well named - it is a hill with a charming summit. It doesn't have a spectacular
profile like the Grand Som or Chamechaude, and it doesn't have the dominating cliffs of Dent de
Crolles or Mont Granier, but it does have its own charms.
Being located on the west side of the col de Porte, it is somewhat overwhelmed by
Chamechaude, and doesn't really stand out as a mountain in its own right. To add insult, a road
ascends from the col de Porte to within a few hundred metres of the summit. This is, of course,
no reason to dismiss it as unworthy, but it is an excellent reason to avoid it at weekends and on
bank holidays!
Looking at the map, you can readily see that Charmant Som is quite an imposing massif, which
covers a large area, and boasts some impressive cliffs below the north of the summit, and three
long ridges. It also presents an interesting eastern flank towards la Martinière, with steeply
dipping slopes of bare limestone. All in all, a hill worth exploring.
Two routes are described which ascend the hill, both of which require a full day, together with
one that ascends La Pinéa, a superb vantage point on the southern ridge.
Ascent of La Pinéa
Ascent from Porte de l'Enclos
Page 20
Ascent from La Diat
La Pinéa
Starting point: Charmant Som road
Difficulty: 1 or 2
Ascent: 600 m
Time: 5 hrs
Quality: **
La Pinéa is the shapely peak on the south ridge of Charmant Som, prominent on the skyline from
many directions. It isn't very high (1771 m), and it is very accessible so most of the ascents
described elsewhere are short half-day walks. This route, however, takes the opportunity to
explore a little more of the Charmant Som massif, and takes a little longer. One half hour section
follows a forestry track which can get very muddy, so it is best left for a dry spell.
In essence, the route leaves the car on the south ridge of Charmant Som, descends to the Col de
la Charmette to the west, contours south through the forest, and then ascends directly to the
summit of la Pinéa from below the west cliffs. A return is then made along the ridge back to the
car, completing a satisfying circuit (map).
Drive up the road from the Col de Porte towards Charmant Som, and soon after it emerges from
the forest you will see a car park on the right (1620 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 71594 50212). Park
here, where you will get a view of the day's objective. The view of Chamechaude is also
excellent from here, although Charmant Som looks a bit of a lump from this angle.
A few metres up the road a track takes off to the left. Follow this for some 10 minutes round a
couple of bends, and then take a path leading into the forest on the right. The next half an hour
is on a pleasant path zigzagging down the flanks of the valley. A forest track is then intercepted
and followed for ten minutes to the Col de la Charmette (1260 m), reached within an hour of
leaving the car park.
This is the meeting point for a number of paths, so it is just as well as to get your bearings.
There is a signpost marked la Fontaine Claire pointing vaguely in the direction of two tracks on
the left. We need the second, which is marked with a yellow paint mark on a tree. This track
sees some heavy forestry operations and for the next 40 minutes can get very muddy, which is
why the walk is best left for a dry spell. It's a good example of how what was probably once a
good forest path has been decimated by modern forestry equipment. With care, however, you
can avoid the worst bits, and when you pass to the left of a cabin (unmarked on the map), it is
all behind you.
A couple of minutes after the cabin another junction is reached - la Fontaine Claire (1250 m).
Our way is to the left, a track which is signposted la Pinéa. After a further ten minutes, you will
meet a large clearing with a hut straight on, and the main track veering right. To avoid a large
loop in the track, head diagonally across the clearing to the right, where a thin path may be
found heading downhill in a small damp gully. This soon rejoins the main track which we follow
to a small abri (bivouac hut), an hour after leaving la col de la Charmette.
This is in an exquisite location - an island in a sea of hayfields nestling beneath the cliffs of la
Pinéa - and it is the perfect place for lunch.
From the abri, continue along the road for a few metres and take the track off to the left that
circumnavigates a hay meadow. The path enters the forest and a few minutes later a waymarked
path leads off to the right, soon after signposted to la Pinéa. This crosses the track again, and
starts to ascend along the base of a cliff, and then gently zig-zags through the forest before
emerging to be confronted by an unexpected view of the western summit cliffs. A few minutes
later the crest is reached, in an area of rocky outcrops. The path from the Charmant Som road
can be seen a few metres below.
From here, the summit is an easy scramble up to the right (Difficulty 2), and is reached after a
75 minute ascent from the abri. This scramble can be avoided by dropping down to the other
path and following it round by a less direct but easier (albeit polished) route.
The views from the summit in all directions are superb. Mont Blanc is visible hanging over the
Roman Inscription, and most of the major tops of Chartreuse are clearly seen. Below is the abri
where we had lunch, nestling in its sea of hay meadows. This is a place to linger and enjoy.
The journey back to the car is simply a question of following the Tour de Chartreuse back along
the ridge for an hour or so to the north, taking time to admire the views.
Page 21
Charmant Som from la Diat
Starting point: la Diat
Difficulty: 1
Ascent: 1077 m
Time: 6½ hrs
Quality: ***
The described route takes a full day, taking almost as long to descend as it does to ascend. It
begins down at la Diat, the small village below St. Pierre de Chartreuse (map), which means that
it's a long way up. But it's a worthwhile day, and it does have the advantage that it's not too far
to stagger to a bar on your return. Some of the first hour is spent climbing steep tracks, but
most of the ascent is good walking, following a section of the Tour de Chartreuse. The time
allows for both ascent and descent.
You can park your car by the Pont Routier de la Dame, which carries the D520b over the Guiers
Mort (790 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 71983 50245). On the other side of the road, there is a
reassuring sign for the Tour de Chartreuse and Charmant Som. Cross the municipal recreation
grounds above the swimming pool and tennis courts, to a path which makes its way through
woodland and pasture, to reach a road junction at la Martinière after some 20 minutes. Turn
right, and carry along the road for 100 metres to a T-Junction. A steep track rises opposite to an
attractive group of houses, and then continues into the forest.
The track continues to rise steeply, but eases after it is joined by another track coming in from
the right at 1050 metres. Turn left here, and you soon reach a pasture with a group of barns.
Keep right. In another 15 minutes you pass through a second pasture ( la Pleynan, 1140 m).
Turn right, and the track turns into a path. This soon joins another track, where you need to
keep left. Fifty metres later, a path turns off to the right. You are now on your way! This path
climbs steadily and easily, for some 45 minutes up beautifully constructed zig-zags, to le Collet
(1562 m), a col on the north-east ridge.
Leave le Collet by the path to the left which after 5 minutes passes within 20 m of the entrance
to Puit Kriska, at 780 m the deepest cave in Chartreuse, and within about 10 minutes you reach
the cliffs on the eastern flanks of Charmant Som. The cliffs here consist of rock folded almost to
the vertical, and the path makes its way across these along ledges and up weaknesses for some
20 minutes or so. The Par les Dalles is not difficult, or exposed, but it is a magnificent path in a
superb situation and should be lingered over. The views into the valley and across to
Chamechaude are spectacular, and the flora in both spring and summer presents a riot of colour.
All good things come to an end, and at 1750 metres you enter the summit pastures with a path
joining from the left. This comes from the car park at the end of the road from the col de Porte
just fifteen minutes away! Turn right, and follow the well-used path easily up the final slopes to
arrive at the summit (1867 m) after a further 20 minutes, some three hours or so from the car
park.
There are worse spots to have lunch. The views are splendid. Chamechaude dominates to the
south-east, and with a pair of binoculars you can pick out the traverse through the cliffs from le
Jardin. To the north, you can see the monastery nestling beneath the dramatic western cliffs of
the Grand Som. By moving along the ridge to the north for a few metres, you can get an
impression of the splendid cliffs lying beneath you. To the west, you can start to appreciate that
Charmant Som is a far more significant topographical feature than it gives the impression of
being when seen from the Martinière valley.
Although you can descend by the way you came up, it is recommended that you return by the
Valombré valley. which is on the other side of the ridge from the ascent. Return to le Collet, and
turn left onto a path descending the northern side of the ridge. After a couple of minutes, there
is a distinct junction, with the way to the left descending into the valley. We, however, take the
right path which follows an attractive line across open slopes beneath the impressive cliffs of the
Arête de Bérard. From here there are good views of the monastery.
Eventually, the path swings away from the cliffs and descends sweeping zig-zags through the
forest to the Valombré road. Turn left, and within five minutes you'll find yourself at the junction
with the D520b.
You can avoid walking back along the busy main road. Follow the path along the true left bank
past the prominent cave entrance of the Résurgence de la Porte de l'Enclos with its charming
sculpture, and when it rejoins the main road, a track takes off up the hill to the right. This
ascends to a few houses above la Diat. before joining a road. Follow this down, and you'll arrive
back at the car in just a few minutes.
Page 22
Charmant Som from Porte d'Enclos, Valombré
Starting point: Porte d'Enclos
Difficulty: 1
Ascent: 1170 m
Time: 6½ hrs
Quality: ***
This walk is an excellent round which covers the best of Charmant Som, and it is strongly
recommended. It is a long walk, but for the main it follows well constructed traditional paths and
is easy going. The route starts from a little way up the Valombré road (map), below la Diat,
makes its way up to the Col de la Charmette, swings round to ascend Charmant Som from the
west, and returns to the car via Par les Dalles and le Collet. Although Charmant Som is a honey
pot, save for the crowds on the summit, much of the route is on small paths and it is likely that
you will meet few people en route.
To find the parking place follow the D520b down the Gorge du Guiers Mort from la Diat. After
700 metres, immediately after the road crosses the river at the Pont du Grand Logis, a side road
crosses the river again. Follow this for about 300 metres to a parking area for a dozen cars
(780 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 71902 50250), just before a road barrier.
We start by following the road up the valley, but this is no hardship as it's a beautiful valley and
there is little traffic apart from the occasional monk pottering past in an ancient Fiat. After about
35 minutes, the Habert de la Malamille is passed. A few metres beyond the road turns to the
right, and our track keeps straight on up the hill. A little way beyond a junction with a route to
the left reached after ten minutes, the track develops into a path which ascends gently through
the forest. As it climbs between the cliffs towards the col de la Cochette (1263 m), it develops
into one of the finest paths in Chartreuse - a section of zigzags supported by dry stone walled
banks.
The path on the far side is equally well constructed, as zigzags descend a steep and narrow
gully, with cliffs soaring up on both sides. At the base of the cliffs, the path diverges, with one
continuing down the hill, and the other traversing the forested flanks to the left which we take.
This is the the Chemin de la Cochette, and it starts off as a fairly thin undulating path. After a
couple of kilometres it becomes a forest track before meeting a major junction with the Col de la
Charmette a few minutes to the right, and the way to Charmant Som to the left. This track soon
morphs into a path, and a few minutes later, starts to follow a stream bed in a ravine which
follows the line of a geological strike-slip fault, passing some drinking troughs en route.
Some twenty minutes after leaving the Chemin de la Couchette, the path leaves the forest to
enter a lovely little valley, surrounded on three sides by cliffs, and wanders up the pasture to the
left. After a further 20 minutes, you reach the first of two large shakeholes. The cattle have
obscured the path at this point, but by rising up the flanks to the right, you'll soon pick it up
again. In about 10 minutes you'll reach a narrow ridge with superb views on both sides. The
path meanders on and around the ridge for a quarter of an hour through a floral wonderland,
before dropping slightly into a pasture. This leads towards a valley (the continuation of the one
we ascended), with the main path descending a little before rising up to a terrace between cliffs
on the far side. There is, however, a smaller path which branches off to the left towards the head
of the valley, which is the one we need. It is marked with green and red way markings. We once
saw a member of the endangered population of Chartreuse chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra
cartusiana) grazing in this area.
Once round the head of the valley, the path rises steeply, and we rather abruptly arrive at the
summit (1867 m), some four hours after leaving the car. After the solitary ascent, the crowds on
the summit will come as a somewhat rude shock. At weekends, it's a major exercise to negotiate
one's way round the vast groups who are having photographs taken to celebrate their successful
200 m ascent from the upper car park.
One can find a quiet corner, however, and there are worse spots to have lunch. The views are
splendid. Chamechaude dominates to the south-east, and with a pair of binoculars you can pick
out the traverse through the cliffs from le Jardin. To the north, you can see the monastery
nestling beneath the dramatic western cliffs of the Grand Som. By moving along the ridge to the
north for a few metres, you can get an impression of the splendid cliffs lying beneath you. To the
west, you can see across the col de la Charmette to la Grande Sure.
The descent route initially heads towards le Colet, to the north of the summit. Follow the track
down the south ridge towards the car park, and from a small col reached after ten minutes, take
the path off to the left. This descends a shallow valley, to soon reach a T-junction (1750 m). This
is the ubiquitous Tour de Chartreuse: turning right leads to the summit car park; we turn left.
This follows the superb Par les Dalles, which picks its way across the rocky eastern face which is
so prominent from la Martinière. Beyond this, the path follows a line under the ridge, passing
within 20 m of the entrance to Puit Kriska, at 780 m the deepest cave in Chartreuse, until an
obvious junction is reached at a col on the north-east ridge - le Collet (1562 m).
Page 23
Turn left down the path descending the north side of the ridge. After a couple of minutes, there
is a distinct junction, with the way to the left descending into the valley. We, however, take the
right path which follows an attractive line across open slopes beneath the impressive cliffs of the
Arête de Bérard. From here there are good views of the monastery, and we have seen monks
walking on this path.
Eventually, the path swings away from the cliffs and descends sweeping zigzags through the
forest to the Valombré road. Turn left, and within two minutes you'll find yourself back at the car.
Page 24
Walks on Chamechaude (2082 m)
Chamechaude is the highest of the major hills of the area, and it dominates the valley of St.
Pierre de Chartreuse. Its height is emphasized by its distinctively shaped peak, and its isolation
from its neighbours. It does, however, suffer from being somewhat too accessible, with the col
de Porte, the major route between the St. Pierre valley and Grenoble, reaching a height of
1326 m within 2 km of the summit (map). This has led to the creation of ski development with a
piste creating an unsightly scar down the western slopes.
However, there are far worse areas of ski exploitation, and the piste is avoided by the paths.
Chamechaude is a beautiful mountain, with outstanding walking, a dramatic summit ridge, a
wealth of flora, and is well worth a visit.
There are three routes described - these are really the main routes on the hill. The first two
describe half-day walks up to the summit, which can be combined with a rest day or a visit to
Grenoble; the third is an outstanding full-day walk that actually covers much of the same ascent
and descent, but combines it with a spectacular tour of the mountain.
Ascent from Col de Porte
Chamechaude via the Pas de l'Arche
Page 25
Chamechaude via Le Jardin
Chamechaude from col de Porte
Starting point: Col de Porte
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 762 m
Time: 2 hrs
Quality: **
This is a relatively easy walk, but good fun, and worthwhile. The secret is to use the zigzags
whenever possible, and avoid the zogs. It is categorised as Difficulty 2, as there is some easy
scrambling on the summit ridge, aided by fixed cables, where a short line will be useful for
members of the party lacking in confidence. The time is for the ascent only.
There is ample parking on the road at the col de Porte (1320 m, grid ref.
UTM 31T 71699 50189), or alternatively, you can park on the track leading to the piste. The
ascent traverses a fair amount of ground, but it is easy and pleasant (map).
Follow the track to the piste area. Immediately after passing a low building on the right, take the
next track (under 10 minutes from the car) leading into the forest to the left. This ascends
gradually to the north, until returning to the south. At the end of the track (1547 m) a footpath
ascends to the north before returning, and emerging out of the forest into pasture. This leads to
a cabin, the Cabane du Bachasson, and spring (1635 m), reached some 40 minutes after leaving
the car.
The route now zigzags to and fro across the steep flower-strewn pasture for some 20 minutes, to
a huge mushroom-shaped boulder, la Folatière (1743 m). Don't take the obvious route to the
right, but take the smaller path rising to the left of the boulder, and ascend towards a large gully
which splits the cliff. The route then ascends the impressive gully (easier on the right) for some
10 minutes, before emerging onto the summit slopes. This is ascended easily by zigzags at first,
but these eventually run out, and the final 50 metres of ascent is a little steep.
There is no mistaking the summit ridge - it plummets on the eastern side by a couple of hundred
metres. As usual, the views are superb, with the cliffs of Dent de Crolles and the Grand Som
being particularly impressive. You need to be a little careful of fast-flying swifts and low-flying
gliders, but it's a good place to spend half an hour over lunch.
Descents
The way up is not recommended for descent for two reasons. Firstly, it's a little too loose to be
pleasant, and secondly, there's a far nicer way down. Follow the ridge a short distance to the
south, to an easy cable-assisted descent down a 10 metre chimney. From here, there are two
paths apparent in the distance - the first is a scree-strewn path going off some distance beneath
you, and the other is a path continuing along the crest. The latter is easier, and far more
pleasant. Make for this.
Some 20 minutes after leaving the summit, the path passes by the brèche Paul-Arnoud, a cableassisted ascent up a chimney from the north side of the ridge. Soon after, the path starts to
descend, and joins the other route. This area of pasture has a particularly fine display of
martagon lily in the early summer. The path then returns north reaching the big boulder some 40
minutes after leaving the summit. You now reverse the ascent and arrive back at the car within
90 minutes of leaving the summit, after a very pleasant and very easy walk.
Page 26
Chamechaude via the Jardin
Starting point: Col de Porte
Difficulty: 3
Ascent: 780 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: ***
This is a magnificent walk - definitely in the top five of Chartreuse. It deserves its difficulty
grading, as there is a short "easy" rock climb, and a very exposed path, but it isn't any harder
than the Anoch Eagach, or the scrambling parts of the Cuillins ridge. This walk basically climbs
halfway up from the col de Porte, takes a rising traverse all the way around the mountain, and
completes its ascent almost above where it started. Note that this route covers nearly all the
ground covered in the other route described up Chamechaude (map). The time assumes ascent
and descent.
There is ample parking on the road at the col de Porte (1320 m, grid ref.
UTM 31T 71699 50189), or alternatively, you can park on the track leading to the piste.
Follow the track to the piste area, passing a low building on the left, after a few minutes. Take
the next track (under 10 minutes from the car) leading into the forest to the left. This ascends
gradually to the north, until returning to the south. At the end of the track (1547 m) a footpath
ascends to the north before returning, and emerging out of the forest into pasture. This leads to
a cabin, the Cabane du Bachasson, and spring (1635 m), reached some 40 minutes after leaving
the car.
From here take the path below the cabin, that traverses towards the south through the forest.
Some ten minutes later a flimsy fence is crossed, and the path divides. Keep to the left, and you
soon leave the forest. This path takes you round the end of Chamechaude, but then becomes a
little obscure. Keep up as much as possible. Some 45 minutes after leaving the hut, a valley
which emanates from a prominent gully (the brèche Paul-Arnoud) splits the flank of the
mountain. Follow some zigzags to reach the Chamechaude cliffs looming over you, and cross the
top of the valley. The path is now more obvious, and a pleasant walk with superb views follows,
taking a route close to the high summit cliffs of the mountain.
Soon after this, you cross a rise, and the cliffs of Dent de Crolles come into view, with Mont
Blanc looming over its crest to the left. Half an hour later, you may spot a path coming up the
slopes from the east. You now need to look for a couple of yellow arrows pointing the way up
two short scrambles up the cliffs (Difficulty 3), divided by a short traverse along a ledge. If you
start to descend, you have gone too far. The climbs lead onto the Jardin - the lower of the two
prominent shelves on the northern edge of Chamechaude. This is a good spot for lunch, which
you will inevitably have to share with the alpine choughs.
The route now heads down alongside the cliffs for a couple of hundred metres, and then round
the corner onto the western flank. The next few hundred metres are along a very exposed path
on a thin ledge with cliffs above, and cliffs below. It's easier enough, but it would be difficult to
provide support for anyone who was nervous in such situations. The musk orchid may be found
here in profusion at the end of July.
The traverse finishes down a short rock rake. A few metres further on, you will see a large
calcite boulder at the foot of a gully. You are now above where you started your walk. The route
ascends the impressive gully (easier on the right) for some 10 minutes, before emerging onto
the summit slopes. This is ascended easily by zigzags at first, but these eventually run out, and
the final 50 metres of ascent is a little steep.
There is no mistaking the summit ridge - it plummets on the eastern side by a couple of hundred
metres. As usual, the views are superb, with the cliffs of Dent de Crolles and the Grand Som
being particularly impressive. You need to be a little careful of fast-flying swifts and low-flying
gliders, but it's a good place to sunbathe and admire the view.
Descents
The way up is not recommended for descent for two reasons. Firstly, it's a little too loose to be
pleasant, and secondly, there's a far nicer way down. Follow the ridge a short distance to the
south, to an easy cable-assisted descent down a 10 metre chimney. From here, there are two
paths apparent in the distance - the first is a scree-strewn path going off some distance beneath
you, and the other is a path continuing along the crest. The latter is easier, and far more
pleasant. Make for this.
Some 20 minutes after leaving the summit, the path passes by the brèche Paul-Arnoud, a cableassisted ascent up a chimney previously seen from below. Soon after, the path starts to descend,
and joins the other route. This area of pasture has a particularly fine display of martagon lily in
the early summer. The path then returns north reaching a large mushroom-shaped rock, la
Folatière (1743 m), some 40 minutes leaving the summit. Follow the zigzags down to the cabin,
and you then reverse the ascent and arrive back at the car within 90 minutes of leaving the
Page 27
summit, after an excellent day in the hills.
Page 28
Chamechaude via the Pas de l'Arche
Starting point: Col de Porte
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 762 m
Time: 4 hrs
Quality: ***
This is a relatively easy walk, but good fun. It takes you off the beaten track, so requires some
confidence. It is categorised as Difficulty 2, as there is some easy scrambling both on the way up
and on the summit ridge, and a short line may be found useful for inexperienced members of the
party. It takes the standard route up to the Cabane du Bachasson, but then follows the path
around to the south before finding a way through the cliffs onto the south-east ridge.
There is ample parking on the road at the col de Porte (1320 m, grid ref.
UTM 31T 71699 50189), or alternatively, you can park on the track leading to the piste. The
ascent traverses a fair amount of ground, but it is easy and pleasant (map).
Follow the track to the piste area. Immediately after passing a low building on the right, take the
next track (under 10 minutes from the car) leading into the forest on the left. This ascends
gradually to the north, until returning to the south. At the end of the track (1547 m) a footpath
ascends to the north before returning, and emerging out of the forest into pasture. This leads to
a cabin, the Cabane du Bachasson, and a water source (1635 m), some 40 minutes after leaving
the car.
We now leave the crowds behind. From here take the path below the cabin, that traverses
towards the south through the forest. Some ten minutes later a flimsy fence is crossed, and the
path divides. Keep to the left, and you soon leave the forest, and start climbing. Soon after, you
will see an arch in the cliff ahead. Climb up towards this and then traverse back under the cliff
where 30 metres back there is a gully providing a way through the cliff - the Pas de l'Arche.
Clamber up this (Difficulty 2), to find a cairned path leading to an easy rake. A further cairned
route at the top leads to a path under some cliffs. Follow this to the east until there is a sizeable
cairn. This marks the Rampe des Écureuils - a rocky ramp which provides an easy scramble to
the top of the cliff. If you miss the cairn, you will find yourself at an impasse overlooking a large
drop - just return for 50 metres. Once up the rake you are on safe ground - simply make your
way up towards the crest to the half-right, and follow the ridge up towards the summit. On the
way up, you will pass a cable-assisted ascent up a gully - the Brèche Paul-Arnoud. Shortly after
this, you will meet the main ascent path. Access to the summit is gained by an easy cableassisted ascent (Difficulty 2) up a 10 metre chimney.
There is no mistaking the summit ridge - it plummets on the eastern side by a couple of hundred
metres. As usual, the views are superb, with the cliffs of Dent de Crolles and the Grand Som
being particularly impressive. You need to be a little careful of fast-flying swifts and low-flying
gliders, It is a good spot for lunch, which you will inevitably have to share with the alpine
choughs.
The best way down is to return the way you came up to a couple of hundred metres beyond the
Brèche Paul-Arnoud where the path leaves the ridge and starts to drop down the flank to meet
the voie normale at the bottom, thus avoiding a lot of scree as well as the crowds. This area of
pasture has a particularly fine display of martagon lily in the early summer. The path then
returns north reaching a huge boulder, la Folatière, some 40 minutes after leaving the summit.
The Cabane de Bachasson is reached in a further 10 minutes. You now reverse the ascent and
arrive back at the car within 90 minutes of leaving the summit, after a very pleasant and easy
walk.
Page 29
Walks on Grand Som (2026 m)
Grand Som is a spectacular mountain. It is one of the three peaks that surround St. Pierre de
Chartreuse, and although it is marginally the lowest, it is the one which most dominates the
neighbouring valleys, with its huge summit cross visible for many kilometres. Interestingly, the
summit is hidden from the centre of the village by a subsidiary ridge.
The main ridge stretches north-south to the west of the central valley of the Massif, being
abruptly terminated at both ends by the gorges of the Guiers Vif and Guiers Mort respectively. To
the east, the mountain is bounded by the road connecting the two St. Pierre's, and to the
south-west it falls down to the valley of the St. Bruno, wherein nestles the Couvent de la Grande
Chartreuse. It is surrounded, particularly to the north and east, by a huge unpopulated terrain of
forests and ridges, criss-crossed by a network of paths (map).
Cliffs are to be found protecting much of the summit ridge, particularly to the north-east and the
west, but it is to the west that the cliffs soar up high above the monastery, culminating in the
large iron summit cross which according to Wordsworth, was "by angels planted on the aereal
rock". To the east, steep flanks follow the dip of the rock before plummeting over smaller cliffs
Possibly the best route to the summit is from the museum at la Correrie, below the monastery.
This goes up to the col du Frenay on the south ridge, and allows a superb round to be covered
which eventually descends into the head of the St. Bruno valley. Unfortunately, the Regional
Nature Park Authorities have "de-emphasised" this path in favour of muddy tracks which
traverse the forest flanks, and care is required in locating the start.
The other two routes ascend from the other side of the ridge, and also provide a pleasant day's
walking, especially that from les Reyes.
Ascent from la Correrie
Ascent from les Reyes
Page 30
Ascent from la Coche
Grand Som from la Correrie
Starting point: la Correrie
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 1270 m
Time: 7 hrs
Quality: ***
This walk ascends Grand Som from the west (map). It ascends the western flanks above the
monastery, traverses the summit ridge, and descends from the head of the St. Bruno valley,
which is followed back to the car. The time assumes the full round trip. It is the classic route on
Grand Som, and if you have time for just one ascent of the mountain, it should be by this route.
La Correrie may be found by following the D520b from St. Pierre de Chartreuse towards St.
Laurent du Pont for 3 or 4 km, and turning right up the St. Bruno valley towards the monastery.
This road loops round back to the museum, where a parking area made available for walkers
may be found at the back (850 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 71863 50257).
This traditional route up towards the Grand Som has been de-emphasised by the Regional
Nature Park, so care should be taken to ensure finding the right way. Take the path at the back
of the car park, ignoring the track that ascends immediately to the left. We need to follow this
for about 50 minutes along a variety of old paths, new paths, and forestry tracks, following the
yellow and red waymarks. After 45 minutes or so, the route, which is following an old section of
path at this stage, turns round a gully, and veers between some large boulders. Shortly beyond
this, a path may be found on the right, heading up and back, marked with an orange blob. This
is the way up to the col du Frenay, and is the all-important junction.
Turn up the new path, which ascends easily in a series of sweeping zig-zags, to arrive on the
ridge after about an hour. Here, you will need to negotiate some fallen trees (2014). From the
ridge, follow the path round to the left, and after a few minutes you'll pass the way down to la
Coche on the right.
The true col du Frenay (1580 m) is reached in ten minutes, and after a further five minutes or
so, the path crosses to the west of the ridge, to continue its ascent beneath limestone cliffs.
Marmots abound here; their burrows lie alongside the path, and they can be heard screaming
their warnings from their rocky vantage points. Near the top of the scree the path swings round
to the right, across a system of ledges, and up some small crags as it rises once again to the
ridge. There is some exposure here, and the use of hands is required. The col at the top is
known as la Suiffière (1798 m).
From here, there are two routes to the summit. If you have a reasonable head for heights, and
conditions are dry, you can follow an exhilarating scramble along the ridge (Grade 2), which
makes an uncompromising bee-line for the summit.
The other route drops down a few metres from the ridge, and then traverses pleasantly across
the rocky flanks of the hillside. The flora in this area is outstanding. Twenty minutes after leaving
the ridge, you meet a path coming up from the right, which is the route down towards the col du
Coucheron. The path then enters a rocky gully, and when it exits, ascends the steep flank to the
summit cross, which is reached some 45 minutes after leaving the ridge. It has taken us about
3½ hours to reach this point from the car park.
The summit is a good place for lunch. As you would expect, the views are superb, and below, to
the south-west, you can see the monastery nestling in the secluded St. Bruno valley.
Unfortunately, the summit is now the home of a very naff viewpoint station consisting of two
halves of a concrete Chartreuse.
This walk is a round trip, so from the summit, continue along the ridge - which is well adorned
with rock gardens. After 15 minutes, the path divides. Either path will do, but the lower path
follows the Sangle des Moutons - a grassy terrace between the cliffs which passes through some
nice rock scenery. There are some iron cables in places, but the protection they offer is not really
required. One interesting feature is that for some distance it follows the line of the of the
hanging-wall of one of the major Chartreuse thrust faults.
The two paths meet up after 20 minutes, and the combined route heads down towards the col
du Bovinant (1645 m) reached after a further 15 minutes. Turning left down the valley reaches a
water source at the shepherd's cabin - a good place to fill water bottles.
The path now makes its way steadily down into the St. Bruno valley. It passes a number of
junctions, but the way down is always obvious. The path passes a chapel near the valley floor,
becomes a road with hard core chippings, and before long the monastery hoves into view. It has
taken a couple of hours to reach this point from the summit.
Follow the track behind the monastery which rises through the woods to eventually link up with a
forest track which lands you back at the car park some three hours after leaving the summit.
Page 31
Grand Som from les Reyes
Starting point: les Reyes
Difficulty: 1
Ascent: 1100 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: ***
This walk ascends Grand Som from the east, and is really quite special. It ascends the Col du
Frêt from above les Reys; descends to the Col du Bovinant; heads south to the summit of Grand
Som; drops down to the Col des Aures; and finally wends its way back to the ascent path using
some wonderful traditional paths (map). It's special because it covers much of the more
beautiful parts of the mountain, and even better, much of it is also off the beaten track. The only
section where you're likely to see other people is between the Col du Bovinant and the Col des
Aures. At Difficulty 1, it also the easiest of the described routes to the summit.
Les Reyes may be found by following the D102B north from the Col du Coucheron for a little
under 3 km. Take the road heading up the hill just before les Reyes, take a right junction after
about a kilometre and park at the road head (1030 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72223 50302).
As usual, the day starts on a forestry track. This leads past a couple of junctions to the right
until it reaches a notice board after some 15 minutes. Here the track becomes a path, and rises
horribly steeply for five minutes before adopting a somewhat more civilised gradient. A junction
to the left is passed after a further five minutes - take note, as this is our return route.
After a further 30 minutes, the pleasant path passes the edge of a beautiful pasture, before
turning back on itself and starting the ascent of the first of what are reputed to be 120 zig-zags
up to the Col du Frêt (we lost count after about a dozen!), which is reached (1740 m) in under
two hours from the car. Horse flies permitting, this is a good place for a second breakfast, with
wonderful views down to the Col du Bovinant and across to Mont Outheran.
The Col du Bovinant is reached within another quarter of an hour, and the main ascent of Grand
Som starts by means of the path heading south-east. One can follow this path all the way to the
ridge, and hence to the summit. A more interesting, and considerably less populated route,
however, is the Sangle des Moutons. To find this, follow the main path up a little gully to a very
positive little ridge. Here there is a junction, with the main path going left, and the sangle path
going right. There is a little exposure on this path, but nothing great. One interesting feature is
that for some distance it follows the line of the of the hanging-wall of one of the major
Chartreuse thrust faults.
After 30 minutes, the sangle leads you back onto the main path within sight of the summit cross,
which is reached some 3½ hours after leaving the car.
The summit is a good place for lunch. As you would expect, the views are superb, and below, to
the south-west, you can see the monastery nestling in the secluded St. Bruno valley.
Unfortunately, the summit is now the home of a very naff viewpoint station consisting of two
halves of a concrete Chartreuse.
We start the descent by following the path that descends the eastern flanks of the hill. This soon
leads to a steep gully, just below which is a junction - reached some 20 minutes after leaving the
summit (1820 m).To the right leads to La Suiffière. Turn left, and continue down the flanks. A
pleasant descent down some cliffs to the col des Aures follows, which is somewhat unnecessarily
cable-assisted in places. The col is a superb spot, with some wonderful views towards the Guiers
Vif gorge through the hidden valley to the north.
The main path drops down to the right, but we take the thinner path onto the Crête des Aures.
This is a superb little path through the forest, with fine views of the cliffs to the west. After
20 minutes, you'll meet a positive T-junction. Take the left path, which swings back to
circumnavigate the head of a small valley. It's overgrown in places, and care needs to be taken
to pick up the line. Consult your map carefully.
About an hour after leaving the col des Aures, a forestry track is picked up that heads north
across the flank of the valley. Ten minutes later, soon after a track comes in from the left, our
path takes off to the left, and follows the floor of the valley. After skirting the right hand side of a
clearing, the track becomes somewhat more brutal, steeper, and muddier. This doesn't last long,
however, and before long we rejoin our ascent route, and the car is reached in a further ten
minutes.
Page 32
Grand Som from la Coche
Starting point: la Coche
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 1090 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: **
This walk ascends Grand Som from the east (map). It explores the eastern flanks of the
mountain, starting from la Coche, a kilometres or so from St. Pierre de Chartreuse, reaching the
south ridge at the col du Frenay, and descends towards the col du Cucheron via the col des
Aures. The time is for the ascent and descent.
La Coche may be found by following the D512 from St. Pierre de Chartreuse towards the col du
Cucheron for about 1300 metres. A road descends left towards the river, over a bridge, and
through the small hamlet. You can park your car at the top of the village at a forestry turning
point (960 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72074 50259).
Follow the forestry track uphill into the woods. There's a junction after 20 minutes or so - keep
right. The path is accompanied by occasional red and yellow way-markings. After a further 30
minutes, the way divides, with an overgrown track off to the right, and our path off to the left.
The path now zig-zags its way up to the col du Frenay. This path is not always in that good a
condition, as the gully that leads to the col has been used as a forestry slide, half-destroying the
path as it zig-zags its way across it. Some people have been tempted to follow the steep slide,
but this is unsatisfactory, and it is worth persevering with the path. This is one place which is in
need of some urgent path renovation by the Regional Park authorities.
Just before you reach the ridge, you meet a T-junction. The path to the left is the one that
seems to have been de-emphasised by the Regional Park, and descends towards the monastery.
It is currently difficult to find from below, but it is worth noting as a descent route if exploring
the hill from La Correrie
The col is reached about an hour and a half after leaving the car. After five minutes or so, the
path crosses to the west of the ridge, and continues its ascent beneath limestone cliffs. Marmots
abound here: their burrows lie alongside the path, and they can be heard screaming their
warnings from their rocky vantage points. The path then swings round to the left, across a
system of ledges and up some small crags, as it rises once again to the ridge. There is some
exposure here, and the use of hands is required. The ridge is reached some two and half hours
after leaving the car.
From here, there are two routes to the summit. If you have a reasonable head for heights, and
conditions are dry, you can follow an exhilarating scramble along the ridge (Grade 2), which
makes an uncompromising beeline for the summit.
The other route drops down a few metres from the ridge, and then traverses pleasantly across
the rocky flanks of the hillside. The flora in this area is outstanding. Twenty minutes after leaving
the ridge, you meet a path coming up from the right. Make a note of it, as this is our descent
route.
The path then enters a rocky gully, and when it exits, ascends the steep flank to the summit
cross, which is reached some 45 minutes after leaving the ridge.
The summit is a good place for lunch. As you would expect, the views are superb, and below, to
the south-west, you can see the monastery nestling in the secluded St. Bruno valley.
Unfortunately, the summit is now the home of a very naff viewpoint station consisting of two
halves of a concrete Chartreuse.
We start the descent by retracing our steps down the flanks, and back through the gully. Some
20 minutes after leaving the summit, you meet the junction noted previously. Turn left, and
continue down the flanks. A pleasant descent down some cliffs to the col des Aures follows,
cable-assisted in places. The col is a superb spot, with some wonderful views towards the Guiers
Vif gorge through the hidden valley to the north.
The path then descends through the forest, and some forty minutes from the col, a junction is
reached within a clearing. Left goes towards the col du Coucheron, and right returns us back to
la Coche. Beware, between here and la Coche are some misleading Regional Park signposts
giving absurd timings! Twenty minutes from the junction, the path turns into a track, and 100
metres later, a yellow way-marked path goes off to the right past a reservoir. Follow this. After a
further 20 minutes, you'll find a signpost for la Coche by a stream. You follow the path across
the stream a couple of times, before emerging on the road some two hours of so after leaving
the summit. The car is two minutes up the road to the right.
Page 33
Walks on Dent de Crolles (2062 m)
"Mark these rounded slopes
With their surface fragrance of
thyme and, beneath,
A secret system of caves and
conduits; hear the springs
That spurt out everywhere with a
chuckle..."
W.H. Auden. 1949
For the purpose of this guide, the Dent de Crolles area is
deemed to include the long, narrow, upland area stretching
from the col du Coq, at the southern end, to the col de
Bellefond (also known as col de Bellefont) in the north - a
distance of some five or six kilometres (map). A line of
cliffs divide it into two discrete sections, with the plateau of
the Dent de Crolles in the south, and the Chaos de
Bellefond in the north. The only practical ways through
these cliffs is by means of the Cheminée du Paradis, a
chimney situated at the eastern end, close to the steep
escarpment overlooking the Isère valley, and a rake which
rises through them at the western end.
The Dent de Crolles has more routes on it than any other part of the Chartreuse. This, no doubt,
is partly due to its ease of access, and partly due to the fact that its summit totally dominates
the Isère valley below. However, the main reason must simply be that it offers magnificent
walking.
The easiest approach is from the col du Coq, one of the high road passes between Chartreuse
and the Isère valley. This climbs to within 600 metres of height, and 1,500 metres in distance of
the summit, and has convenient parking at the top.
To the west, Perquelin offers a variety of routes to the plateau, allowing a number of circuits to
be constructed. All routes from here involve over a 1,000 metres of ascent.
To the east, a route ascends from the Commune de St. Hilaire, which is perched on a narrow
plateau perched half way up between the escarpment above, and the Isère below.
The Dent de Crolles is not only a magnet for walkers, it is also a place of pilgrimage for cavers.
The main cave, the Réseau de la Dent de Crolles has 57 kilometres of passages with 12
entrances, and is 695 metres deep. It is possible to descend from almost the top of the
mountain, all the way to the source of the Guiers Mort almost 700 metres below, and it is
possible to traverse right through the mountain, from one side to the other. Whilst such
expeditions are for experienced cavers only, you should take the opportunity to have a look into
the entrances of some of the more accessible caves. It's always worth carrying a couple of lightweight headlamps. You can get a flavour of the undergound world from this photograph album.
Ascent via the Trou du Glaz
Ascent via the Source du Guiers Mort
Ascent via Pas de Rocheplane
A Tour of Dent de Crolles
A Visit to the Grotte Chevalier
Page 34
Dent de Crolles via the Trou du Glaz
Starting point: Col du Coq
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 524 m
Time: 2 hrs
Quality: ***
This walk offers the gentlest of introductions to the area (map), the relatively short ascent
allowing time to explore the summit plateau en route. The time is for ascent only.
Park at the top of the col du Coq (1434 m grid ref. UTM 31T 72238 50205), and follow a path
through the woods towards the Dent de Crolles (it divides after a few metres - keep to the
right). This take you onto the pastures beneath the impressive summit cliffs. These pastures are
a riot of colour in the spring. Follow the track up to the col des Ayes (1538 m), reached some 20
minutes after leaving the car, and turn right following the zigzags up towards the cliffs. At a
junction near the top of the pasture, take the path to the left, which traverses above some steep
slopes. After a further ten minutes, you reach the Trou du Glaz, one of the entrances to the
extensive Dent de Crolles cave system. A cold draught blows out of the interior, and ice will be
found covering the floor quite late in the season. With a couple of lights, it is safe to venture
through the entrance chambers for some 250 m until the draught emerges from a narrow,
greasy ascending rift. Beyond are a sequence of shafts, so you should turn back here, although
you can get a flavour of what the cave is like further in by looking at the dedicated photograph
album.
Continue from the Trou du Glaz, for a few metres until some cables can be seen ascending the
cliffs on the right. Climb these easily, and follow the path up a few chimneys and across ledges,
rising up the cliffs through a line of weakness. This part of the route is fun, but easy, and you
gain height rapidly.
After another ten minutes, another junction is encountered. The path to the right is the Sangle
de la Barrère. This will also take you to the summit of the Dent de Crolles via an impressive
ledge system traversing the southern cliffs. This is a fine route, quite straight forward, but is
probably best left for the descent.
Continuing straight on leads rapidly to the summit plateau. After being dominated by cliffs since
leaving the car, it is good to reach the wide open views. After a few more metres, you will reach
a cross-roads. This is an important junction, and it is useful to pause to take one's bearings.
To the left, a five minute and highly recommended detour will take you to the Belvédère. This is
a high point on the ridge, which as its name implies, is an excellent view point. From it, one can
look right down the Perquelin valley, to St. Pierre de Chartreuse and the café where you will
probably be refreshing yourselves within a few hours. The spring flora here is quite exceptional,
with a thick covering of elder flower orchids being particularly outstanding.
Straight on leads through the pavement and dwarf forest along the Tour de Chartreuse towards
the col de Bellefond, and right leads towards the summit.
The kilometre or so to the summit can either be taken along the path to the left of the shallow
valley which is well cairned by the PNRC, or more interestingly, you can wander up the limestone
pavement up the synclinal valley itself. On the way up, you may spot the P40 pothole, which is
the original top entrance to the caves underneath. It's a 30 metre deep shaft, a little too wide to
jump over, with a plaque fastened to the wall. Experienced cavers can descend this shaft, to
emerge either at the Trou du Glaz, or the Grotte du Guiers Mort over 600 metres below,
according to taste.
On a clear day, the views from the summit (2062 m) are spectacular. The Belledonne hills can be
seen over the haze-filled Isère valley to the east, and 100 kilometres to the north-east, the
white mass of Mont Blanc seems to be hovering in the sky. To the north, west, and south, the
Chartreuse massif fills the near and far horizons.
Descents
Apart from the way up, there are three possible descents back to the col du Coq. The least
direct, and one which explores more of the fine plateau area follows the north ridge from the
summit. Beyond the Roche du Midi, a small path, not marked on the map, descends and swings
to the east. It passes a small spring in an open stretch of grassland - an idyllic place for a camp,
and after crossing an area of pavement, finishes at the cross-roads below the Belvédère. Follow
the route back towards the Trou du Glaz.
A way which is not particular recommended is to go directly back to the col des Ayes, via the Pas
de l'Oeille. This follows the fault gully which descends through the cliffs 100 metres north west of
the summit. It is quite straight forward, apart from being steep, but it is a little loose in its upper
reaches. Its descent does include a couple of steep rocky sections, but these are quite easy, and
not exposed.
Page 35
The third descent is by means of the Sangle de la Barrère, which takes a spectacular line along a
system of wide grassy ledges along the southern cliffs. Whilst from below, the route looks
impossible, it is, in fact, very easy, with but one somewhat exposed section near the beginning.
The route starts just below the top of the Pas de l'Oeille gully, and leads off towards the right.
Note that it starts somewhat tentatively, well above the prominent pinnacle in the centre of the
gully. After a few metres, the path leads round a somewhat exposed nose, but thereafter, it
follows a wide ledge system, which descends back to near the top of the path from the Trou du
Glaz. In spring, the fine bear's ear primroses are commonly found, clinging to crevices in the
cliffs. This route is highly recommended.
Page 36
Dent de Crolles via the Guiers Mort Cave
Starting point: Perquelin
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 1056 m
Time: 7 hrs
Quality: ***
This is probably the finest walk on the Dent de Crolles, and shouldn't be missed. It includes
(map) viewing the entrance series of the Guiers Mort cave; a visit to the summit; and an
exploration of the prairie on the Dent de Crolles summit pastures. It is, however, a full day's
walk, and you should expect to be away from the car for up to seven hours. It also needs to
cross the Guiers Mort stream which is impassable in flood conditions. The time given is for
ascent only.
The Perquelin valley is a narrow valley that runs south-east from St. Pierre de Chartreuse for
about three kilometres to the hamlet of Perquelin. Drive to the top of the road, and at its
conclusion, continue along the forest track for 100 metres, where you will find a car park (990 m
grid ref. UTM 31T 72314 50237. Our first target is to find the entrance to the Guiers Mort cave.
From the car park follow the forest track past a clearing, until you cross the Guiers Mort stream,
and also get a glimpse of its waterfall above. Immediately on the other side of the bridge, a path
ascends pleasantly through the woods, passing the Fontaine Noire - a captured water source
which is the resurgence for the Chaos of Bellefond area above.
Continue on the path uphill for a few minutes, then take the next junction to the right, which
soon leads to a forest track. Turn right, and after 100 metres, turn left just before the Guiers
Mort stream, some 10 minutes after leaving the Fontaine Noire. A pleasant path rises through
the forest, until it descends to a set of metal "stepping stones" across the stream, with the
imposing cave entrance above. You can, however, carry on and reach the cave entrance by an
easy cable-assisted traverse.
Once up the zigzags (or across the short traverse), cross over to the imposing entrance
(1310 m) which you will reach about an hour after leaving the car. This is a lovely spot, and a
good place for breakfast. The Grotte du Guiers Mort is the bottom entrance to the world-famous
60 km long Dent de Crolles system of caves, and its entrance chambers may be explored safely
providing you have adequate lighting (which includes a spare), and the water levels are
reasonably low. If you follow the main passage up some boulders and round to the right, you will
arrive at a large chamber with a lower passage going off at floor level. Entering this, you are
immediately hit by a veritable gale-force draught. The low passage only lasts three or four
metres before entering another high chamber. This is the Climber's Chamber, which is as far as
we can go, but speleologists can progress into the heart of the mountain by climbing up to a
passage in the roof.
Once the cave has been explored, you need to reach a path which ascends following the base of
the cliff. You can reach this from the cave mouth either by clambering across an eroding gully, or
more easily by returning to the stepping stones and climbing up to it via a number of zig-zags on
the (true) left bank.
The continuing path is at first steep and a little loose at times, although perfectly safe, and is a
better ascent than descent route. After climbing steeply, it levels out, and becomes more
pleasant. After 45 minutes, there is an easy scramble of three or four metres up the cliff to gain
access to a new traverse level which isn't immediately obvious. A few minutes later the route
joins the path from the Trou du Glaz and the col des Ayes just at the point where some cables
ascend the cliff. The entrance to the Trou du Glaz can be seen 100 metres further on.
Climb the cables easily, and follow the path up a few chimneys and across ledges, rising up the
cliffs through a line of weakness. This part of the route is fun, but easy, and you gain height
rapidly.
After another ten minutes, we meet a junction. Straight on leads to the bottom of the Dent de
Crolles prairie - we, however, take the path to the right which is the start of the Sangle de la
Barrère. The rock strata rise steadily up to the summit from here, and the path follows a ledge
system traversing high up the southern cliffs. It isn't exposed, but the situations are superb. In
spring, the fine bear's ear primroses are commonly found, clinging to crevices in the cliffs. The
path finishes a few metres below the top of the Pas de l'Oeille path. Finishing up this and turning
right leads to the summit, (2062 m) about an hour after starting up the cables.
On a clear day, the views from the summit are spectacular. The Belledonne hills can be seen over
the haze-filled Isère valley to the east, and 100 kilometres to the north-east, the white mass of
Mont Blanc seems to be hovering in the sky. To the north, west, and south, the Chartreuse and
Vercors massifs fills the near and far horizons.
Descents
Page 37
Apart from the way up, there are two possible descents back to the car. The first is to backtrack
to beyond the Trou du Glaz, to where a path heads off into the valley below. This eventually
reaches a forest track. Turn down this to the Perquelin road, where you need to turn right for the
car. This is a fairly fast descent, but not particularly recommended.
The other alternative is strongly recommended, however. It takes longer, but allows you to
explore more of the massif, and is followed by an excellent descent. Allow a further three hours.
This route follows the Tour de Chartreuse along the ridge, and descends back to Perquelin by the
sentier du Colonel.
Follow the shallow valley down from the summit, as whim dictates. You can either follow one of
the paths, or meander through the lapiaz. If you choose the latter, you may spot the P40
pothole, which is the original top entrance to the caves underneath. It's a 30 metre deep shaft, a
little too wide to jump over, with a plaque fastened to the wall. Experienced cavers can descend
this shaft, to emerge either at the Trou du Glaz, or the Grotte du Guiers Mort over 600 metres
below, according to taste. After half an hour or so, you will reach a signed meeting of four ways
near the bottom of the valley. Straight on leads up to the Belvédère, which is a high point on the
ridge, and as its name implies, is an excellent view point. To the left the Tour de Chartreuse
emerges onto the plateau having climbed up from the Trou du Glaz (passing the start of the
Sangle de la Barrère en route), and to the right, it heads towards the col du Bellefond.
Turn right, and follow the clearly way-marked path through the beautiful prairie, surrounded by
dwarf forest, beautiful views, and, in season, a riot of colour from the flowers and butterflies.
This is walking at its best. Half an hour after leaving the sign post, you are faced by an
impressive cliff face descending from the crest to the right, down to the drop into the Perquelin
valley to the left. A path joins from the right around here. The way on finds a pleasant rake
through the cliff, and then traverses a steep bit of prairie. After a further 15 minutes you reach
le Prayet, a signed junction. Straight on the Tour de Chartreuse continues to the col du
Bellefond; we turn left to start our descent back to Perquelin.
This is a super descent path, which makes its way easily back down. After an hour's descent, you
meet a forest track - cross this to a continuation of the path. After another five minutes, turn
right at a T-Junction, and you will find yourself back at the Fontaine Noire. Follow the ensuing
track down, turn left at the next junction, and 15 minutes later, you will be back at the car park.
The bar is a ten minute drive up the road.
Page 38
Dent de Crolles via the Pas de Rocheplan
Starting point: Les Eyrauds
Difficulty: 3
Ascent: 1150 m
Time: 7 hrs
Quality: ***
Although there are plenty of routes into the massif from the eastern side, there are few that lend
themselves to circular walks, and hence they tend to be rather unsatisfactory. This is one of two
walks in this guide that does ascend the eastern flanks, but also allows an aesthetically
satisfying circuit to be made (map). It is not, however, a walk for the faint hearted, requiring a
descent of the Cheminée du Paradis, as well as a relatively challenging walk round the nose of
Dent de Crolles on a traditional, but little-used path, both of which merit a Difficulty 3
classification. But despite its difficulties, it is rewarding and worthwhile.
The walk starts from the car park (not marked on the IGN map) at the skiing station les Eyrauds
(970 m grid ref. UTM 31T 72620 50220), off the D30. Follow the track that runs just above the
cemetery for a few minutes to a tarmac road, and turn left up the hill. This soon turns into a
steep forest track, which improves after a few minutes.
A new hard-core road has appeared on these slopes which is not marked on the map, and we
encounter it for the first time at a confusing five-way junction some 25 minutes after leaving the
car. Follow the way-marked path which is the third from the left. Over the next 20 minutes, we
have to cross this new road two or three more times, until we reach the Source du Sanglier
(1282 m), a covered reservoir with the Pas de Rocheplane signposted straight ahead. We are
now on our way.
The rest of the route up to the crest is superb. It starts off steeply, but soon slackens off. Some
15 minutes after leaving the reservoir the path passes to the left of a big outcrop of yellow
limestone - le Truc. Shortly after it emerges from the forest, and starts on an exhilarating section
of path which rapidly surmounts the rocky ramparts to reach the Pas de Rocheplane some 2
hours or so from leaving the car. The path is obvious throughout this section, but towards the
top it does require a little mild scrambling (Difficulty 2).
It is always good to reach the crest, and in this case the views suddenly open up all round, with
the full extent of the Dent de Crolles massif in view, and the Perquelin valley and the Grand Som
beyond. Immediately on the right is a large pinnacle.
From the top, two paths head off towards the south - one along the crest and the other just
below. The latter is easier walking, and wanders exquisitely through a wonderful meld of rocks
and flowers.
The start of the Cheminée du Paradis section is heralded by a line of trees. There are a couple of
ways of getting to the chimney, but the easiest way is to follow the waymarkings down a rocky
barrier, and then bypass the large drop in front by immediately regaining the height by climbing
up to the left. The path then descends an easy gully to the right, to the head of the chimney.
The Cheminée is an impressive cleft, about 10 metres high, ten metres deep, and less than a
metre wide, which is descended in three steps. There is no significant sense of exposure, but the
holds are a very polished, and a little awkward (Difficulty 3). A safety line may be useful for
people who lack confidence in such places, and is definitely useful for lowering packs down.
At the bottom, take the path that starts by trending down and follow it to the summit of Dent de
Crolles (2062 m), reached about hour and half after leaving the Pas de Rocheplane.
On a clear day, the views from the summit are spectacular. The Belledonne hills can be seen over
the haze-filled Isère valley to the east, and 100 kilometres to the north-east, the white mass of
Mont Blanc seems to be hovering in the sky. To the north, west, and south, the Chartreuse
massif fills the near and far horizons.
Our descent is down the Pas de l'Oeille which follows the fault gully descending through the cliffs
some 100 metres north west of the summit, and has a prominent pinnacle near the top. It is
quite straight forward, apart from being steep, but it is a little loose in its upper reaches. Its
descent does include a couple of steep rocky sections, but these are quite easy, and furnished
with cables.
¹ At the bottom of the gully, the path starts to traverse to the north-west under the cliffs. If you
look below when on this section, you will see a lower path running parallel, which is the one we
need to find next. Follow the path from the Pas de l'Oeille until it reaches an obvious scree gully.
Cross this, and then immediately turn back on yourself and cross it again but dropping down a
few metres towards a thin path. It was marked with an old wooden sign in July 2004, and it
takes about 30 minutes from the summit to reach this point. This is the start of the Pas des
Terreaux. It crosses the pasture, and then finds a thin line between the summit cliffs and the
steep valley below. The route is obvious but exposed (Difficulty 3), although some of it is
Page 39
equipped with cables. The most impressive section is where the path rounds the nose of the cliff,
where you will be traversing on shale ledges. You should listen out for stones falling from the
cliffs, all along this path. They do give fair warning by whistling at you during their descent.
The section before the nose was subject to a massive rockfall in October 2010 which toook out
150 m of path. So be warned!
Once off the shale ledges, the path passes beneath the entrances to the Grotte Annette and the
Grotte Chevalier. After this the path becomes a little more relaxing, although it does have one or
two interesting little traverses across the top of gullies. A fence is crossed a few minutes later,
and soon after the path starts to descend through some recently planted trees. The start of
civilisation is marked by a Franco-Incan ruin (you'll believe me when you see it!), and the
Cabane du Berger, a small unwardened refuge from which there are good views of the summit
cliffs.
The path has now turned into a track, and it drops rapidly down to a junction reached after 20
minutes. Turn left, and after a few minutes it crosses a piste to become an excellent thin path
traversing the hillside, with red and yellow way markings. This continues for half an hour, a little
overgrown in places before disappearing under the new road encountered earlier in our walk.
Turn right at this, and round the sharp bend to the left, and continue along the road for ten
minutes past a junction, until you pick up the original ascent path heading down. The car park is
a now just a 20 minutes stroll away, from where you will be able to pick out your ascent route.
¹ I am grateful to Mike Hale for passing on the following information:
The traverse beneath the summit cliffs of the Dent de Crolles towards the Grotte Annette that you describe seems to
have fallen into disuse in favour of a path 50m lower down the hillside. The lower path is a more logical route on the
return and is less exposed than the upper one. It is now more worn and clearer to find but there is no security cable
but does not need one and a cairn is developing at the start. The upper path is growing over and it is only the
presence of the cable that gives confidence that one is on the correct path. The cable has become quite frayed at the
far end belay. To return along the upper path requires keeping high on fading steps to find the correct level.
Page 40
A Tour of Dent de Crolles
Starting point: Col du Coq
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 900 m
Time: 8 hrs
Quality: ***
This walk provides a fairly tough round of the Dent de Crolles area, but it passes through some
wonderful terrain, and is well worth the effort. It starts from the col du Coq, ascends to the
summit of Dent de Crolles, and then follows the eastern crest to the col de Bellefond. It then
returns to the col du Coq following a lower line (map). It takes its grading from a short, but
rather slippery scramble, up the Cheminée du Paradis, but don't let it put you off if you're
reasonably agile.
Park at the top of the col du Coq (1434 m grid ref. UTM 31T 72238 50205), and follow a path
through the woods towards the Dent de Crolles (it divides after a few metres - keep to the
right). This take you onto the pastures beneath the impressive summit cliffs. These pastures are
a riot of colour in the spring. Follow the track up to the col des Ayes (1538 m), reached some 20
minutes after leaving the car, and turn right following the zigzags up towards the cliffs. At a
junction near the top of the pasture, take the path to the left, which traverses above some steep
slopes. After a further ten minutes, you reach the Trou du Glaz, one of the entrances to the
extensive Dent de Crolles cave system. A cold draught blows out of the interior, and ice will be
found covering the floor quite late in the season. With a couple of lights, it is safe to venture
through the entrance chambers for some 250 m until the draught emerges from a narrow,
greasy ascending rift. Beyond are a sequence of shafts, so you should turn back here.
Continue from the Trou du Glaz for a few metres, until some cables can be seen ascending the
cliffs on the right. Climb these easily, and follow the path up a few chimneys and across ledges,
rising up the cliffs through a line of weakness. This part of the route is fun, but easy, and you
gain height rapidly.
After another ten minutes, an obvious junction is encountered where the incline has eased. The
path to the right is the Sangle de la Barrére, and is our selected way to the summit for the day.
This sangle path follows a terrace between the upper cliffs of Dent de Crolles. At first, one is not
really aware of the situation, but after 20 minutes, the terrace becomes narrower and steeper,
the protective trees disappear, and the path becomes distinctly more airy and exciting. In spring,
the bear's ear primrose may be seen growing out of nooks and crannies in the limestone cliffs.
Eventually the path divides at a gully - take the upper path which soon leads to the top of the
Pas de l'Oeille fault gully, easily recognised from an isolated pinnacle in its centre. The summit
(2062 m) is five minutes to the right, reached within a couple of hours of leaving the car. On a
clear day, the views are spectacular. The Belledonne hills can be seen over the haze-filled Isère
valley to the east, and 100 kilometres to the north-east, the white mass of Mont Blanc seems to
be hovering in the sky. To the north, west, and south, the Chartreuse massif fills the near and far
horizons.
From the summit, head down the shallow valley to where a path takes off to the right just before
the first shake holes. This crosses the pasture, and contours north below the crest. After half an
hour or so, a path goes off to the left - this leads back towards the Trou du Glaz path. We carry
straight on towards the impressive Cheminée du Paradis cliffs. These are soon reached near a
low point on the crest, near a prominent pinnacle.
The Cheminée is an impressive cleft, about 10 metres high, ten metres deep, and less than a
metre wide, and it is climbed in three steps. There is no exposure, but the holds are a very
polished, and a little awkward (Difficulty 3). At the top, the path ascends some easy rocks before
leveling out. The next section keeps close to the crest, with impressive drops on both sides. Half
an hour from the top of the Cheminée, the route down to St. Trouvet is marked by a sign post
(1860 m), close to yet another rock pinnacle.
From here, the path climbs steadily towards the Piton de Bellefond, and involves some mild
scrambling. The summit is gained with a bit of a flourish, about an hour after leaving the
Cheminée. This marks the end of the upland part of the walk. We now follow the path as it
contours across towards the col de Bellefond. At the col, turn left to find the path that descends
the pasture to the cabane de Bellefond in wide-sweeping zigzags. There is a water source near
the cabane (1650 m) - the first since we left the car - so it's a useful place to stop and refill
water bottles.
We now follow the path (we are now back on the GR9) across the water source, through the
pastures, and up into the Chaos of Bellefond - a well-named, complex area of shafts, pits, and
caves. This is then left for another area of alpine meadow, which soon leads us to le Prayet - the
start of a route down into the Perquelin valley. From here, the path contours flowery slopes, with
impressive views down towards Perquelin, and then descends a couple grassy rakes which take
us to the base of the Cheminée du Paradis cliffs about an hour after leaving the cabane.
Page 41
The next section takes a fairly convoluted route through the lapiaz, and up and down minor
rocky outcrops, but it is reasonably well marked with the GR red and white paint flashes. A
junction is reached after 20 minutes, with the path to the summit of the Dent de Crolles going
straight on and our route down towards the Trou du Glaz heading off to the right. The descent
down to the Trou du Glaz needs to be taken with care, as the limestone on the short scrambles is
very polished, and very slippery - especially in wet weather.
From the Trou du Glaz, it is simply a matter of reversing the ascent. It's only an hour between
the summit plateau and the col du Coq, and the car is soon reached after a long, but satisfying
day.
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Dent de Crolles - A Visit to the Grotte Chevalier
Starting point: Col du Coq
Difficulty: 3
Ascent: 250 m
Time: 4 hrs
Quality: ***
This expedition is for the young at heart, and the agile, and has as its target the inner depths of
the spectacular grotte Chevalier. Chevalier was the leader of the team that made the main
explorations of the Dent de Crolles caves during the war. The cave that is named after him was
always obviously very much part of the main cave system, but was only recently connect to it.
The time is for the ascent and descent, and allows for a full exploration of the cave.
This half day expedition starts with an exciting traverse under the summit cliffs of the Dent de
Crolles, and has as its climax, a trip deep into the heart of the mountain.
The route to the cave is exposed, and should be avoided if you feel uncomfortable in such
conditions. The cave is fairly long, but safe provided a few basic precautions are taken. A
minimum of three people should descend, one of whom should be experienced in caving, and all
of whom should be equipped with some head protection (a balaclava will do), a warm jersey, and
most importantly, a head lamp (preferably of the Petzl variety), and at least one spare torch.
Unlike most caves, there is no risk of getting muddy or wet. It is also useful to take some fluid,
as such dry caves can be very dehydrating.
The Chevalier is located immediately under the summit cliffs, in the eastern face (map). Park at
the top of the col du Coq (1434 m grid ref. UTM 31T 72238 50205), and follow a path through
the woods towards the Dent de Crolles (it divides after a few metres - keep to the right). This
take you onto the pastures beneath the impressive summit cliffs, which are are a riot of colour in
the spring. Follow the track up to the col des Ayes (1538 m), reached some 20 minutes after
leaving the car.
¹ From here follow the zigzags up the pastures, ignoring the turn off to the Trou du Glaz, along
the path which leads to the Pas de l'Oeille. After climbing about 150 metres, the path crosses a
shallow scree gully. Instead of following the main path across this, descend slightly as you cross,
and you will meet a lower path. This path crosses the pasture, and then finds a thin line between
the summit cliffs and the steep valley below. The route is obvious, but exposed, although some
of it is equipped with cables. The most impressive section is where the path rounds the nose of
the cliff, where you will be traversing on shale ledges. You should listen out for stones falling
from the cliffs, all along this path. They do give fair warning by whistling at you during their
descent.
The section before the nose was subject to a massive rockfall in October 2010 which toook out
150 m of path. So be warned!
From the nose, follow the path round for a couple of hundred metres. The Chevalier is on a
platform 30 metres or so above the traverse, and is accessed by a thin ascending path through
the loose scree and vegetation. Local commercial caving groups sometimes leave fixed ropes on
the route.
The grotte Chevalier is in a very loose frost-shattered area of cliff, where there is no real room to
sit down and have lunch. Traversing back under the cliffs at the same level for a hundred metres
or so, however, leads to a platform in front of the grotte Annette, named after Annette
Bouchacourt, one of Chevalier's team who was killed in a skiing accident. This provided the
original connection with the main Dent de Crolles system. However, be warned: the Annette
should be avoided for casual exploration, as the entrance passage leads to a scree funnel which
is is liable to slumping, and the route beyond is not straight forward, and becomes somewhat
technical. The platform, though, is a perfect place for a picnic, with excellent views into the
valley below, and the Belledonne hills opposite.
If you do wish to explore the caves a little further and have the equipment listed above, you
should return to the Chevalier. The entrance descends steeply down loose frost-shattered scree,
and care should be taken not to bang your head. At the bottom of the slope is a little clamber
over a boulder onto a continuation of the slope which debouches into the main passage proper.
This starts with the generous dimensions of about 4 metres wide, by about the same high, but a
couple of hundred metres in, the passage becomes overwhelmingly huge - thirty metres wide,
by 10 metres high. Traversing this passage is slow, having to negotiate large blocks that have
fallen in from the roof, and it drops fairly steadily. It continues thus for three quarters of a
kilometre into the heart of the mountain, reaching a depth of 170 metres below the entrance,
until it somewhat anticlimactically finishes in a blank wall. By this time you have traversed over a
third of the distance to the Guiers Mort at the head of the Perquelin valley, and have some
400 m of rock above your ahead. However, the cave does connect with the rest of the Dent de
Crolles system, and if you're lucky you may see some cavers appear from the roof, abseiling
Page 43
down a 25 m shaft near the end, having traversed through from the Trou du Glaz.
Unfortunately, the cave is totally devoid of stalagmitic decoration, but early in the season,
impressive ice formations may be found.
The journey out is somewhat hot and tiring; it can also be problematical. What you don't tend to
notice on the way in are two side passages - one half way in, and one a couple of hundred
metres from the entrance, both being on the right as you descend. The problem with both is that
it is all too easy to enter them by mistake on the way out, which can lead to some disconcerting
moments. The mistake is more likely to made in the first. This is where the passage is at its
widest, about 40 metres, and you tend to lose all touch with the right hand wall. You will soon
realise your mistake when the passage becomes smaller than you remember. Don't worry simply retrace your steps back to the main passage, and turn left.
You can also make the same mistake nearer the entrance, but again just retrace your steps.
Towards the entrance, simply climb the boulders and the scree, and you will soon reach welcome
daylight having descended into the heart of the mountain.
¹ I am grateful to Mike Hale for passing on the following information:
The traverse beneath the summit cliffs of the Dent de Crolles towards the Grotte Annette that y ou describe seems
to have fallen into disuse in favour of a path 50m lower down the hillside. The lower path is a more logical route on
the return and is less exposed than the upper one. It is now more worn and clearer to find but there is no security
cable but does not need one and a cairn is developing at the start. The upper path is growing over and it is only the
presence of the cable that gives confidence that one is on the correct path. The cable has become quite frayed at the
far end belay. To return along the upper path requires keeping high on fading steps to find the correct level.
Page 44
Walks on l'Aup du Seuil
The Aup du Seuil (spelt Aulp du Seuil on the map) is a synclinal basin upland area which runs
down from the col de Bellefond (1900 m - also known as col de Bellefont) in the south, to the
Cirque de St. Même (1300 m) in the north, and is separated from l'Alpe by the vallon de Pratcel
(map). The lower northern end is forest-covered lapiaz, and the southern end is pasture, and it
is all a highly protected nature reserve. It is spectacularly beautiful, but the real jewel in the
crown is the Cirque de St. Même. This is where the truncated synclinal basin plunges 600 metres
into an idyllic amphitheatre of streams and flat meadows, The water from the largest resurgence
in Chartreuse emerges from a spring in the middle of the cliff face, and immediately plunges
over the first of four waterfalls on its way down to the meadows 300 metres below. Above the
resurgence is the largest and most impressive cave entrance in the area - the Grotte du Guiers
Vif. This is the resurgence for the 16 km-long, 414 m-deep Réseau de Mallisard cave system,
which has two entrances on the plateau above.
The Cirque de St. Même is, understandably, a veritable honey pot, and the PNRC have taken
steps to control access into the area. Traffic is now prevented from entering the meadows of the
Cirque, and a large car park has been built at the end of the access road. A charge of €3.50
(2016) is imposed at peak times. All these are very positive steps, but it is recommended that
you avoid the area at weekends and bank holidays.
The first four walks described below enter the basin from the west. The fifth ascends from the
east, and explores some of the eastern ridge, and the sixth ascends the third highest top in
Chartreuse on the western ridge. None will disappoint, and between them, they allow the
exploration of the full length of this beautiful upland basin, and some of the bounding crêtes.
Roman Inscription from St. Philibert
Roman Inscription via Pas de la Mort
Habert de la Dame via Pas de la Mort
Habert de la Dame and the Forneau Crête
Pas de Ragris and Passage de l'Aulp du Seuil
Page 45
Lance Sud de Malissard from Perquelin
l'Aup du Seuil - Roman Inscription from St. Philibert
Starting point: St. Philibert
Difficulty: 3
Ascent: 1050 m
Time: 7 hrs
Quality: ***
This is another spectacular walk which follows the sangle path to the Roman Inscription, and
allows us to explore the southern half of the l'Aup Seuil. It deserve its grading, for it includes a
little bit of scrambling, and some very exposed walking, but if you're reasonably fit, agile, and
have a reasonable head for heights, it's a walk to be savoured. However - be warned: do avoid
this route in wet weather, or whenever there is likely to be ice or snow around. The time given is
for the full walk.
The route starts from a forestry road above St Philibert (map), climbs up to the Roman
Inscription - a pass mid-way along the western crest of the Aup Seuil, traverses the southern
half of the upland basin, ascends to the top of the col de Bellefond, and returns down the valley
back to the car.
St. Philbert is an attractive village spread across the D512, midway between the two St. Pierre's.
Take the forestry road heading east opposite the cemetery, and drive up this for 2½ km until a
small parking space may be found on the left just before the signs that indicate that the rest of
the road is barred to ordinary traffic (1135 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72410 50274).
Take the road past the barrier, and after ten minutes it descends to the level of the stream.
Cross the bouldery stream bed to the track opposite. This soon divides - keep left. After a few
minutes this develops into a path which climbs gently along the flank of the valley. It crosses a
couple of forestry tracks in the first 20 minutes or so, where you'll have to look around for the
continuations.
Some ninety minutes after leaving the car the forest thins out, and the path reaches the alpine
meadows. This is where the fun starts, and the next couple of hours should be savoured.
The path sweeps up a couple of zig-zags to reach the base of some cliffs, which it follows to the
north before dropping steeply down to a ledge - this is somewhat exposed, but there are some
helpful iron railings. The path then descends steadily to enter the Cheminée de Fontanieu,
reached some 30 minutes after entering the alp. This is a narrow gully, some three or four
metres wide, which rises for some 200 metres through the cliffs. Just above the entry point, a
cave in the north wall passes impressively right through the arrête into nothingness - a place to
avoid! Below, the gully drops down a cliff. The path crosses to the left hand side of the gully,
ascends a handrail section, and then ascends steeply on a loose path, sometimes accompanied
by cables.
The exit is made onto a short, subsidiary ridge, which is crossed to arrive on a terrace, high up
on the cliffs of the west wall of the Crête des Lances de Malissard. The path heads south, with
some disconcertingly impressive views, as it follows the base of cliffs, and sometimes meanders
onto the other side of the crest. The St. Bruno lily is common on this terrace. After some 45
minutes of spectacular walking, the base of a rock chimney is reached, with much metal work in
place. This needs to be ascended - it is Difficulty 3, and a 20 metre rope is useful for those who
lack confidence in such situations. It leads to a narrow col on the crest (1900 m), and hence
down to the Roman Inscription. It has taken some 3½ hours (with breaks), to reach this point,
and the bulk of the work is now over.
Just below the crest is the Roman Inscription itself, engraved into the rock, and picked out with
red paint. It is reputed to date from the first or second century, and is thought to mark the
boundary of the lands of the Aveien people. It is not difficult to reach the inscription by the way
we are going to descend, but if the inscription is genuine, having a territory marker here implies
that this was a major route over the crest 2,000 years ago.
Follow the path down the scree to the base of the cliffs, and then round to the right into an
attractive prairie, through which it meanders to reach the GR9 in the valley below (1610 m) - the
Vallon de Marcieu. We now follow the path to the south, through a large area of pasture with
several ruined bergeries nestling under the cliff wall to the left, and then through a beautiful
area of impressive limestone boulders (petrified trolls?), before entering a large enclosed basin
of pasture beneath the col de Bellefond. The ascent up to the col (1902 m) is well contoured,
and is reached some two hours after leaving the Roman Inscription.
Looking back from the col, you can see the four discrete sections of the Aup Seuil. Immediately
below is the sheltered, enclosed pasture nestling under the steep walls of the col; beyond is an
area of prarie with limestone towers and pinnacles; beyond that is the large area of high altitude
pasture; and finally, the forest-covered lapiaz leading to the edge of the Cirque de St. Même.
At the col, turn left to find the path that descends the pasture to the cabane de Bellefond in
wide-sweeping zig-zags. There is a water source alongside the cabane (1650 m) - the first since
Page 46
we left the car - so it's a useful place to stop and refill water bottles.
From the cabane, follow the path sign-posted col de la Saulce. This sweeps round the head of
the Perquelin valley, before descending to reach the col (1481 m) after about 20 minutes. From
here we turn right towards St. Philibert. The original path gently zig-zagged its way into the
valley, but it has been largely destroyed by a newer forestry track. This, however, is not too
steep and within 30 minutes the tarmac road and the car is reached after a wondeful walk.
Page 47
l'Aup du Seuil - Roman Inscription via Pas de la Mort
Starting point: Cirque de St. Même
Difficulty: 3
Ascent: 1110 m
Time: 8 hrs
Quality: ***
This is a spectacular walk - the best in the area without doubt, and one that should not be
missed. It deserve its grading, for it includes a little bit of scrambling and some very exposed
walking, but if you're reasonably fit, agile, and have a reasonable head for heights, it's a walk
that will live on in the memory. However - be warned: do avoid this route in wet weather, or
whenever there is likely to be ice around. The time assumes ascent and descent.
The route (map) starts of at the base of Cirque de St. Même; climbs past the Guiers Vif
resurgence; continues into the synclinal valley above via the Pas de la Mort; traverses the Aup
du Seuil; visits the Roman Inscription on the western crest, and descends by the Combe de
Fontanieu. Unfortunately, you will need to take both the IGN 3334OT and 3333OT maps with
you.
The Cirque de St. Même is located some four kilometres to the south-east of St. Pierre
d'Entremont, at the end of the D43E. The Regional Park authorities have provided a large car
park a couple of hundred yards before the meadows in front of the cirque, and vehicles can no
longer drive into this little piece of paradise. This area is understandably a honey pot attraction
for day visitors, and is best avoided at weekends, when the PNRC charge €3.00 (July 2010) for
car parking to help stem the tide.
From the car park (860 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72625 50316), we follow the continuation of the
tarmac road through the forest, to soon enter an area of flat meadows and forests, with the river
running along a wide shingle bed. There is a chalet hotel here, and a small bar offering
refreshments. Ahead are the cliffs of the cirque, with the river resurging from a couple of springs
half way up, before immediately plunging over a double waterfall. You will be soon faced by a
information notice board, where you can get your bearings. You have a choice of two routes. You
can either plough somewhat resolutely up the main track, or you can follow a path which follows
the stream, and visits the waterfalls. This takes somewhat longer, but is a lot more scenic. Both
routes eventually rejoin. The timings in this account assume an ascent of the main track.
After some 45 minutes of steady climbing, you will pass a rock shelter followed by some steps
cut in the rock, and some five minutes after that, there is a diversion of the ways. Right leads to
the impressive resurgence cave, the Guiers Vif, but a visit to this is probably better left for
another day when there is more time.
For the next half an hour, the path meanders its way up the cliff, from ledge to ledge. Some of
this is a little exposed, but quite easy. Minor scrambles are assisted with iron work, and railings
have been fixed along the more unnerving places. Eventually, you come to the Pas de la Mort
itself - an ascent up a chimney assisted with chains, ladders, and iron rungs fastened into the
rock. This follows the tree-lined rake which may be seen in the top left of the photograph. The
whole section of path from the cave to the Pas de la Mort is good fun, and should be lingered
over.
Once up the chimney (1280 m), the path continues to rise through the forest well above the
synclinal valley, before starting to contour to the south. Some half an hour or so after leaving the
Pas de la Mort, you meet the Tour de Chartreuse path coming in from the left (1490 m). Keep
straight on. This whole area is a highly protected Nature Reserve, and is very beautiful.
Thirty minutes after meeting the Tour de Chartreuse, the path enters open pastures, and you will
soon see the col de Bellefond in the distance. The path climbs steadily through the pastures,
with a cliff fairly close on your right. When these cliff give out, an old sign post is reached some
15 minutes after leaving the forest (1610 m). We now need to make our way up the ridge on the
right, and follow what is at first a fairly thin path, but one which soon gains in confidence. This
pleasant path makes its way steadily uphill through the forest, before meeting an open area,
when it makes a steep beeline for the crest (1900 m), which is reached some fifty minutes after
leaving the pasture below.
Just below the crest is the Roman Inscription itself, engraved into the rock, and picked out with
red paint. It is reputed to date from the first or second century, and is thought to mark the
boundary of the lands of the Aveien people. It is not difficult to reach the inscription by the way
we are going to descend, but having a territory marker here implies that this was a major route
over the crest 2,000 years ago. One is filled with admiration for those people who lived in these
hills at that time.
The way on from the Roman Inscription is down the prominent cleft to the west. This 12 metre
high chimney is steep, a little greasy, somewhat exposed, and requires care. A rope may be
required for those who are lacking in confidence. The chimney starts as a confined, fairly muddy
Page 48
slope, but then becomes vertical. There are ample footholds, and you can lower yourself using
some in-situ iron railings (photo).
Below the chimney, the path turns north, and for the next kilometre or so, spectacularly follows
a steep grass terrace with high cliffs above, and enormous cliffs below. When seen from a
distance, it is difficult to appreciate that a path could follow this line. It's a little airy, but easy
enough, and very enjoyable. After a bit, it crosses the ridge a couple of times, before descending
some loose scree on the west side of the crest some 30 minutes after leaving the chimney.
The main descent starts some 10 minutes later, when the path traverses the top of a subsidiary
ridge. It then turns left, into a steep and loose descent down a narrow gully for some 200
metres - the Cheminée de Fontanieu. This requires great care. The end is heralded by a short
steeper handrail section. Just below this, a cave in the north wall passes impressively right
through the arrête into nothingness - a place to avoid! Below, the gully drops down a cliff, so the
path crosses to the left hand side to complete its descent.
The path then ascends (the last thing that one needs at this stage of the walk!) beneath the
cliffs to the south, with iron railings offering moral support in some of the more exposed places,
soon to reach an easy grass terrace. After a few hundred metres, it turns back on itself and
descends into the forest. Here you must take care not to lose the way. The main path contours
through the forest to the south - we, however, must locate a steep path descending straight
down to the col de Fontanieu, located obscurely a few metres after leaving the alp. This leads to
an open pasture at the col (1480 m), and we turn right to follow a strike-slip fault valley back
down to the meadows of the Cirque de St. Même.
With luck, the bar will be open, and you can enjoy a well-deserved beer.
Page 49
l'Aup du Seuil - Habert de la Dame via Pas de la Mort
Starting point: Cirque de St. Même
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 700 m
Time: 8 hrs
Quality: ***
This walk explores the northern end of the Aup du Seuil - between the Pas de la Mort and the
vallon de Pratcel. It's a fairly easy day, with relatively little ascent, and it can be readily
combined with an exploration of the Guiers Vif cave, which the time given assumes.
The route (map) starts of at the base of Cirque de St. Même; climbs to the Guiers Vif resurgence
and cave via the waterfalls; continues up to the synclinal valley above by the Pas de la Mort to
the Aup du Seuil, turns north to the vallon de Practel via the Habert de la Dame, which is
descended back to the car.
The Cirque de St. Même is located some four kilometres to the south-east of St. Pierre
d'Entremont, at the end of the D43E. The Regional Park authorities have provided a large car
park a couple of hundred yards before the meadows in front of the cirque, and vehicles can no
longer drive into this little piece of paradise. This area is understandably a honey pot attraction
for day visitors, and is best avoided at weekends, when the PNRC charge €3.00 (July 2010) for
car parking to help stem the tide.
From the car park (860 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72625 50316), follow the continuation of the
tarmac road through the forest. You will soon enter an area of flat meadows and forests, with
the river running along a wide shingle bed. There is a chalet hotel here, and a small bar offering
refreshments. Ahead are the cliffs of the cirque, with the river resurging from a couple of springs
half way up, before immediately plunging over a double waterfall. Just beyond the buvette is an
information notice board, where you can get your bearings. You have a choice of two routes. You
can either plough somewhat resolutely up the main track on the north bank, or you can follow a
path which ascends the south bank, visiting the waterfalls en route. This takes somewhat longer,
but is a lot more scenic. The two routes eventually rejoin. Today we'll choose the latter.
Return to the start of the meadow, and cross the stream by the footbridge. The path heads to
the back of the meadow and enters the trees. After a few minutes it reaches a junction - keep
left. The path climbs steadily before reaching another junction signposted the Cascade d'Isolée.
A worthwhile ten minute deviation here leads to the first of the three waterfalls.
Continuing along the main path for a further ten minutes, you will drop down to a small bridge
below a second fine waterfall - la Grande Cascade. The path then crosses to the north bank and
ascends steeply to meet the main route.
Turning left, after a couple of minutes a further junction on the right drops down to the la
Cascade de la Source, which is particularly impressive in wet weather. As its name implies, it is
situated directly below the springs of the Guiers Vif resurgence.
The Guiers Vif resurgence is the largest in Chartreuse, and the cave entrance above it is, without
doubt, the most spectacular in the massif. The entrance area is made up of three sections. First,
there is the resurgence platform where up to four springs emerge, from which there are fine
views down the valley. Above that a large natural tunnel leads to the Vestibule, which is a 70
metres open section between the tunnel and the cave, and may be part of the original cave
which has since collapsed.
From the scree slope by the waterfall, you can make your way up to the resurgence platform by
climbing up in the corner of the rock wall with the help of some iron work (Difficulty 2), and
following a rising traverse. This is a fine place to enjoy breakfast.
When water levels are reasonable, you can make your way through the impressive tunnel with
the help of some chains, into The Vestibule. Once through the tunnel, make your way up the
wide ledge on the right onto an arrête. Sometimes, however, there are deep pools barring
progress through the tunnel. Once it was possible to cross the stream, and reach the same point
by climbing up the bank, but a collapse now makes it necessary to retreat back to the main
path, and follow that round to the right along the pas Ruat to the same place.
From this vantage point above the tunnel, you get a fine view of the entrance to the cave.
You can make your way easily down into The Vestibule, and towards the 30 metre wide, 10
metre high entrance. This cave is impressive, and provided that you have adequate lighting, and
there is no flowing water apparent, well worth a 30 minute visit. As in all caves, you do need to
take care. Here, the entrance ledges are a little slippery, and there are some pools of water that
need traversing around. The passages are also large, so you need to keep your bearings.
However, you will find a map attached, which has been adapted from one made by Lancaster
University Speleological Society in 1969.
Once in the railway tunnel-type entrance passage, you will see that the passage divides into two,
Page 50
with an impressive 6 metre high pillar in the passage straight on. Keep to the ledge on the right
to avoid the pool, and traverse round into the passage on the left. After fifty metres of easy
going, the passage turns sharp right, with a smaller continuation straight on. It's worth having a
look straight on - there is a small crawl with a veritable gale blowing out. This eventually leads
into a river passage and an alternative entrance from the plateau high above.
The main passage continues for a hundred metres to a junction in a large chamber. If you peer
to the right, you will see daylight along the other passage from the entrance. Make a note. You
can then follow a series of very large chambers for a further 100 metres before the passage
starts to drop down a boulder slope into the main sump, after which the passage continues
underwater. Make your way back carefully, to the junction of the two entrance passages, and
take the left one this time. The entrance Pillar is within 30 metres. There are other passages,
totalling well over a kilometre in length, but these are not for casual exploration and should be
avoided.
Having visited the cave, we now need to make our way up the to the synclinal valley at the top
of the cirque. Make your way back up out of The Vestibule, and follow a path up the rocky arrête
over the tunnel. This is the Pas Ruat, and it leads us back to the main path. Keep straight on at
the junction.
For the next half an hour, the path meanders its way up the cliff, from ledge to ledge. Some of
this is a little exposed, but quite easy. Minor scrambles are assisted with iron work, and railings
have been fixed along the more unnerving places. Eventually, you come to the Pas de la Mort
itself - an ascent up a chimney assisted with chains, ladders, and iron rungs fastened into the
rock. This follows the tree-lined rake which may be seen in the top left of the photograph. The
whole section of path from the cave to the Pas de la Mort is good fun, and should be lingered
over.
Once up the chimney (1280 m), the path continues to rise through the forest well above the
synclinal valley, before starting to contour to the south. Some half an hour or so after leaving the
Pas de la Mort, you meet the Tour de Chartreuse path coming in from the left (1490 m). Turn
left. This whole area is a highly protected Nature Reserve, and is very beautiful.
Within 10 minutes or so, the path begins to open out to reach a pasture. A source is soon
passed, as is the Habert de la Dame (1554 m). A few metres after that there is a junction just
before the prairie is entered, with the Tour de Chartreuse heading down to the left. If you are
short of time it is a useful and pleasant shortcut, rejoining the main route just before the
reservoir mentioned below. We, however, keep straight on.
For the next half hour the path wanders through the prairie, contouring above the Roche Blanche
across which are some fine views. The path then drops into the vallon de Pratcel which follows
the line of a prominent geological strike-slip fault crossing the massif. It is a lovely valley flat-floored with cliffs rising on either side, and covered with forest intermingled with exquisite
clearings and meadows.
Turn left down the valley, and follow the path down. After 25 minutes, we cross a small stream
with a reservoir. There is water available here. Some five minutes or so later, there is a path, the
top of which has been renovated (2014), descending the slopes to the left. Descend this - it's a
little thin, and slippery when wet, but it drops rapidly over 250 metres through the forest. Near
the bottom, a messy forestry track has been superimposed on top of the traditional path, but
following your nose will take you directly back to the car park within half an hour of leaving the
reservoir above.
Given a nice day, it's probably worthwhile sauntering back up the road to the bar, where you can
enjoy a well-deserved beer whilst trying to identify the route up to the Pas de la Mort from
below.
Page 51
Habert de la Dame and Le Forneau
Starting point: les Varvats
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 800 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: ***
This fine walk has several things going for it: it includes a fine section of ridge; much of it is well
off the beaten track; and it allows an exploration of the area south of the col du Alpe. It's also a
relatively gentle day. Although it is graded as Difficulty 2, this is only because of a short rocky
descent with a slightly awkward move, and it really shouldn't put anyone off who is reasonably
agile.
The starting point is les Varvats (1042 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72587 50328) - a small group of
houses elevated 250 metres above St. Même which has the advantage of a small parking area (if
you get there earlier enough!). From here, the route follows the Tour de Chartreuse as far as the
Habert de la Dame; ascends the pasture known as l'Alpette up to the eastern crête; and follows
this north to just before the col de l'Alpe where it swings south-west to descend the Vallon de
Pratcel back to the car (map).
From the car park follow the track trending south-east for half an hour to where it crosses a
small stream, with a reservoir on the left. The track morphs into a steep bouldery path on the
other side of the stream, and after a further ten minutes there is a junction with the left branch
being signposted the Vallon de Pratcel. That is our return route, but we take the path to the
right. This ascends easily and steadily through the forest above the Roche Blanche, with fine
views down the Guiers Vif valley. After a further 40 minutes the path rises more steeply, crosses
a fence, passes a couple of potholes to the left, and enters a pasture at a junction (1540 m).
Turn right at the junction towards the cabin - the Habert de la Dame, which is reached an hour
and half after leaving the car - a good place for second breakfast.
The next target is the ridge rising up behind the cabin. Follow the path, and turn left up the
ridge, which is the home of some very contented cows. The ridge is easy going, with fine views
across the l'Aulp de Seuil. It is adorned with a line of boundary stones finely decorated with the
croix de Savoie and the fleur de lys. These date from the 1820s, and marked the frontier
between the kingdoms of Savoy and France, which were only finally united in 1860.
The crête (1800 m) is reached some 40 minutes after leaving the cabin. We turn left. For the
first section, there is no path and you will need to follow your nose and the occasional red blob,
but there are no real problems. The route follows a superb line along the crête, with dwarf pines
and fine views across to the Belledonne. After a bit there is a dip in the ridge with a gully going
down to the left. Do not be tempted to follow the gully, but make your way round a small
outcrop, and then descend back to the ridge below by means of a short Grade 2 scramble.
Some half an hour after reaching the crête, a path is met coming up the cliffs from the left - this
is the Passage du Forneau. From here, the route is better waymarked, and more obvious
underfoot. The path continues easily, although some care is sometimes required with the
navigation, and rises up to a splendid little summit (point 1830 m on the map) with a grassy top
and a trig point. Judging from the charred state of the trees, this area seems to be very
vulnerable to lightening strikes. The next section of path is very beautiful, traversing a broad
ridge with dwarf pines, and hidden glades.
The path then makes its way across a fence, and descends towards the head of the Vallon de
Pratcel, where it meets the path coming up from les Varvats, close to a fine limestone obelisque.
It is now a simple matter of following the path down the valley back to the car, which is reached
after some 80 minutes.
Page 52
Pas de Ragris and the Passage de l'Aulp du Seuil
Starting point: Col de Marcieu
Difficulty: 1
Ascent: 870 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: **
The eastern side of of the Chartreuse Massif is protected by a band of cliffs stretching from Dent
de Crolles in the south, to Mont Granier in the north. In some areas these cliffs are vertical, and
in others they are a complex of largely inaccessible cirques and sangles, hiding a wonderland of
hidden gems such as la Tour Percée. This walk provides an opportunity to get up close and
personal with the area, and also explore some of the eastern ridge of the Aup du Seuil. It
ascends a fairly obscure route up the Pas de Ragris, and descends the beautifully engineered
route of the Passage de l'Aup du Seuil which is used to move animals into the pastures of the
Vallon de Marcieu on the far side of the ridge. Most of the ascent route is on the map, but the
last section isn't, although it is clear underfoot. It is suggested that you leave this walk for a day
of good visibility, so that you can enjoy the rock scenery to the full. Note that it involves a mild
trespass...
The route starts from the ski station at the Col de Marcieu (1055 m, grid ref.
UTM 31T 72862 50265) where there is ample parking. Make your way up the road labelled the
Chemin de l'Aup du Seuil, opposite the car park. At the first bend, the tarmac gives out and it
becomes a well-graded forest track. Fifty metres past the next bend, a sign-posted path goes off
to the right. Follow this through a couple of pistes to where it divides. Take the upper path on
the left which is a little muddy at first. A sign-posted junction soon follows, and we turn left.
Some 30 minutes after leaving the car, following a steeply ascending stony section, a forest track
crosses the path. Straight on leads up to the Passage de l'Aup du Seuil, but we turn right on our
way to Pas de Ragris.
After 50 metres another track is met - keep right down the hill. Shortly after, you will encounter
a set of uncompromising metal barriers marked "Zone interdite". Slip through these, and
continue across the next junction of tracks. You are now on a gently ascending track, which
doubles back on itself and eventually reaches an abrupt end at a boulder near the 1483 m point
on the IGN map. It has taken under 1½ hours to reach this point from the car.
From here, our path is not on the map, but it is clear underfoot, and starts behind the boulder. It
climbs steeply through the woods, to meet a path coming up from the right after ten minutes.
Keep left, and follow it to under the cliffs where another path is met. Turn left again, and
continue across a platform where climbing bolts adorn the cliff walls above.
The path then starts to ascend into the cirque through avalanche damaged pines. Half way up is
an easy rocky barrier, and soon after the path traverses round to the left into a gully. The way at
the top is blocked, but a cable-assisted traverse round a ledge enters another gully where easy
scrambling leads onto the summit ridge, after some 2½ hours of ascent.
The 1926 m high point is reached after twenty minutes of easy walking along a fine path which
follows the ridge. It is crowned by a mountain rescue radio relay station, and has fine views
across the Vallon de Marcieu to the opposite ridge, and down the valley to Mont Outherand. On a
clear day the Alps beckon to the east.
Returning back along the ridge, five minutes past the gully we ascended, there is a cross
marking the top of the Passage de l'Aup du Seuil, which is our way down. After a short descent,
it traverses into the next cirque, which it descends in sweeping zig-zags below impressive cliffs.
Some serious engineering has been put into this path, not least in the barriers placed to keep
animals safe from the drops.
Once down the main part of the cirque, the path turns into a steeply descending track and enters
a small alp, some 40 minutes after leaving the ridge, where there is a choice of routes. The most
direct way back to the car park is to turn left here, but we prefer to turn right, which is a gentler
graded route and provides better opportunity for flower spotting. After ten minutes or so, this
path joins the Tour de Petites Roches, way-marked red and yellow. It crosses two junctions, and
in both cases we continue straight on, always descending. Twenty minutes after leaving l'Alpette,
it joins a forest track. Turn left here, and the car park is a pleasant 35 minutes amble away,
reached about 1½ hours after leaving the ridge.
Page 53
Lance Sud de Malissard from Perquelin
Starting point: Perquelin
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 1075 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: ***
The Lance Sud de Malissard is not a hill in its own right, being simply the highest part of the
western ramparts protecting the Aulp du Seuil. Nevertheless, at 2045 m, it is the third highest
point in the Chartreuse Massif, and the final approach is arguable on one of the finest, albeit
short, lengths of ridge in the area. This walk, which starts from Perquelin (map), is a delight, and
worth doing even if you decide to miss out the final section leading to the summit, which
involves a bit of a scramble and some mild exposure. Some of the sections through the forest,
although very pleasant, can be a trifle muddy so the walk is best left for a dry spell. It ascends
from Perquelin via the Col de la Saulce, and returns via the Chaos de Bellefont and the Sentier
du Colonel.
The Perquelin valley is a narrow valley that runs south-east from St. Pierre de Chartreuse for
about three kilometres to the hamlet of Perquelin. Drive to the top of the road, and at its
conclusion, continue along the forest track for 100 metres, where you will find a car park (grid
ref. UTM 31T 72314 50237). From the car park follow the forest track past a clearing, until you
cross the Guiers Mort stream. A few metres on you will pass the path coming down from the
Grotte du Guiers Mort, on which we will be returning. We continue ploughing up the track,
ignoring the first two tracks that goes off towards the right. About half an hour after leaving the
car, a proper path takes off to the right with yellow way-markings, and a yellow cross advises
that the main track is not the way. Turn right, and immediately cross a small stream. This path is
pleasant going (when dry) and passes a couple of seats carved out of tree stumps. Soon after
the path briefly flirts with a forestry track, and then rejoins it a few minuts later. Follow the track
uphill for ten minutes, until it turns sharply right, with our path going straight on traversing
across the slopes of a small valley to the Col de la Saulce (1480 m), arrived at some 1½ hours
after leaving the car.
From here, the path traverses under the Lances de Malissard with fine views of Dent de Crolles
and the cliffs overlooking the Perquelin valley. It reaches the Cabane de Bellefont (1639 m) after
some 25 minutes. This newly-built unguarded refuge is located at the base of the Col de
Bellefont pastures. In most years we have found the pastures being grazed, and the whole area
has reeked of sheep urine, but in 2016 the sheep were absent and the whole pasture was a sea
of flora. With its nearby water source and after some two hours of walking, this is a convenient
place for a second breakfast.
The 300 m ascent up to the col follows gentle zigzags, and takes half an hour or so. At the top
there are some fine views looking down into the Vallon de Marcieu, with the Dome de Bellefont
on the right of the col, and our destination on the left. The route up is clear underfoot. It first
scrambles up to a little path with a small pillar, and then ascends a steep rocky gully that
requires the use of hands (Difficulty 2). The path then traverses the ridge to reach some 40 m of
steep scree for the final ascent. At the top of this, a fine path along the crest with magnificent
views on all sides reaches the highest point all too soon about half an hour after leaving the col.
Allow 3 to 3½ hours for the ascent from Perquelin.
For the descent, return back to the Cabane de Bellefont, and follow the GR9 towards Dent de
Crolles. It soon enters the Chaos de Bellefont, a well-named, complex area of shafts, pits, and
caves. This is folllowed by an area of alpine meadow, le Prayet, which is the start of our route
down into the Perquelin valley. When you find a sign-posted path towards the Pas de Rocheplan,
look for a path going right towards the cirque - the Sentier du Colonel. This is a superb descent
path, which makes its way easily back down. After an hour's descent, you meet a forest track turn left, and after 100 metres turn right onto a path. This descends rapidly, passing the
Fontaine Noire - a captured water source which is the resurgence for the Chaos of Bellefond
area, and before long you will find yourself emerging from the path we noted on the way up.
Page 54
Walks on l'Alpe
L'Alpe is the long synclinal valley, and surrounding ridges, that stretches between the Roche de
Fitta overlooking the Cirque St. Même to the south, and the col de l'Alpette to the north, which
marks the southern end of the Granier massif - a distance of some four or five kilometres. It is
separated from its neighbours by two prominent geological strike-slip faults both of which
provide easy access to the area. The Tour de Chartreuse and GR9 follows the line of the valley
(map).
It is a beautiful area of predominantly alpine pastures and lapiaz. It is not overly dramatic, but it
contains some wonderful walking, and the eastern ridge does have the high point of le Pinet
(also known as Le Truc) which overlooks La Plagne, and which is a worthy destination.
There are three main ways up into the valley. To the south, the GR9 ascends via the Pas de
l'Echelle. To the east of there, another route reaches the valley more gently via the col de l'Alpe;
and to the north the GR9 enters the area via the col de l'Alpette. Here we recommend a couple
of more esoteric routes to the ridge from the the southern end, both returning by the Pas de
l'Echelle, and one from the northern end.
Like the Dent de Crolles, l'Alpe not only offers magnificent walking - it is also a place of
pilgrimage for cavers with the Réseau de l'Alpe alone having over 60 km of explored passages,
35 entrances, and a depth of over 600 metres. Whilst most expeditions are for experienced
cavers only, you should take the opportunity to take a look in the entrances of some of the more
accessible caves. It's always worth taking a couple of lightweight headlamps with you.
l'Alpe via the Sangle de Fouda Blanc
Le Pinet via Trou de la Saignerie
Page 55
Le Pinet from la Plagne
l'Alpe via the Sangle de Fouda Blanc
Starting point: les Varvats
Difficulty: 3
Ascent: 825 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: ***
This walk is an absolute cracker. This is sangle walking for its own sake, and it follows a
spectacular line for some 2 km, high amidst les Rocheurs de Fouda Blanc which form the
south-east corner of l'Alpe (map). Whilst the route has no scrambling to speak of, it is the most
exposed described in this guide, and it is strongly recommended that you refrain from sampling
its delights until you have gained experience with less extreme sangle paths - such as that
traversed en route to the Roman Inscription - and that you are confident in your ability to cope
with exposed situations. Some steep exposed vegetation needs to be crossed, so it is a place to
avoid in wet weather. It isn't a long day, so you can take your time, and make the most of the
awe-inspiring scenery.
The starting point is les Varvats (1042 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72587 50328) - a small group of
houses elevated 250 metres above St. Même, with the advantage of a small parking area (if you
get there earlier enough). There are splendid views across the cirque towards the Guiers Vif
resurgence waterfalls.
Follow the main track out of the car park to the south-east. This is a well contoured forest track,
and easy going. After about 30 minutes, the path rises to pass a reservoir and crosses a stream
(a source of drinking water). Twenty minutes later there is a junction. The TOP 3333 OT map is a
little misleading at this point, as it appears that the main path (GR9) continues to contour to the
right under the Roche Blanche - the obvious route, however, rises up into the Vallon de Pratcel.
This is reached an hour or so after leaving the car. The Vallon de Pratcel follows the line of a
prominent geological strike-slip fault, with the gorge formed by the erosion of a graben formed
by subsidiary faulting. It's a lovely valley - flat floored with cliffs rising on either side, and
covered with forest intermingled with exquisite clearings and meadows.
In a further 10 minutes the path diverges with the smaller path continuing along the valley
towards the col de l'Alpe, and our path rising to the left towards the Pas de l'Echelle. We follow
this for about 15 minutes almost to the top, until level with the base of a cliff to the left, easily
identified by its prominent overhang. The sangle path follows the base of this cliff, and is vaguely
way-marked with ancient orange markings.
This path is little used, and the line isn't always immediately obvious as the first part traverses
some fairly wide grass terraces. At one point it ascends a grassy slope which would be
dangerous in wet weather. Initially, the going is merely pleasant, but once round the southern
nose, the exposure starts for real. After 15 minutes or so, the path contours round a wide gully,
and past a large rock shelter, which gives some relief. Here, or on a small col a few metres
further on, is the last opportunity to sit down in comfort before the summit ridge, so it's a good
time to take a meal break. The view from here over the Guiers Vif waterfalls, across the Aup du
Seuil to the col de Bellefond is spectacular.
For the next 30 minutes, the path is narrow, the exposure sustained (Difficulty 3), and it
provides a memorable experience. It follows the higher terrace in the photograph (above the one
with the obvious path).
Finally, we contour into a gully, with a path rising to join us from the left. This is the same path
which is climbed by the other walk described from les Varvat (the cave with the ladder leading
into the roof is just a few metres below). Turn right, and ascend the gully to a crack. This is an
awkward, but not exposed, scramble which is a lot easier if rucksacks are taken off first, and
passed on up.
The scramble takes you onto a beautiful terrace path, which you follow for a few minutes, the
rocks above you being the final obstacle to the crest. From here you get a fine view of the sangle
which you have recently traversed. The path eventually plunges through the cliff by means of a
rock corridor. This is followed around a couple of right angles to arrive on the summit crest,
attained some three hours after leaving the car.
Descents
Reversing the ascent is not recommended. To return to the car, it is preferable to descend via the
Vallon de Pratcel, reached from the Pas de l'Echelle which is well way-marked. This path may be
found by taking a line to the south-east towards the Chalet de l'Alpe, a bergerie. You will soon
pick up a path which is going in the right direction. The GR9, with its red and white
way-markings will be encountered on the far side of the valley floor. Turn right, and follow it
across an area of limestone pavement to the Pas de l'Echelle. This soon descends past the start
of the sangle path where we were a couple of hours earlier, and drops into the Vallon de Pratcel.
It is now a simple matter of retracing your steps to les Varvats, reached within a couple of hours
Page 56
of leaving the crest.
Page 57
le Pinet via the Trou de la Saignerie
Starting point: les Varvats
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 825 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: **
This walk is somewhat spoilt by its approach. It starts with a steep ascent through the forest,
blunders through an indeterminate bit, and then ascends a scree-filled gully (map). Once past
these lower obstacles, however, it is a delight, with a couple of interesting scrambles which give
it its difficuly grade, an obligatory ascent of a fixed ladder in a cave, and a wonderful walk along
the crest.
The starting point is les Varvats (1042 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72587 50328) - a small group of
houses elevated 250 metres above St. Même, with the advantage of a small parking area (if you
get there earlier enough). There are splendid views across the cirque towards the Guiers Vif
resurgence waterfalls.
From the car park follow the track trending south east for about 300 metres. When it reaches a
positive summit, a thin track heads off uphill to the right. This starts off horribly steep, but the
angle soon eases. After about half an hour, the path intersects a contouring forestry track.
Ignore it and carry on, taking the right hand option after a few minutes. This should then be
followed to a positive ridge. By this time, you will have picked up the occasional blue blobs and
red arrows. The path loses its identity on the ridge, but find your way up it until a clearing,
rampant with man-eating Giant Yellow Gentians, is reached. From here, there is a fine view of
the l'Aulp du Seuil basin above the Guiers Vif cirque.
The next part of the route is a bit of a mystery, as we have never found the right bit of path, but
the following works after a fashion. Go to the top of the clearing into the woods, and ascend this
until you are 20 metres higher than the clearing. When you can, traverse to the left (north) until
you leave the wood for some scree. Keep your eyes open for a path coming up from below, but
don't panic if you don't find it. Keep on traversing to the north until there is a distinct gully above
you, with a rocky amphitheatre seemingly half way up. This is the gully you need to ascend.
There is no path up to the amphitheatre - make your way up the steep scree-covered slope as
best you can for about quarter of an hour. The rock wall may be climbed well over to the right,
where way-marked. This is a slightly awkward scramble of some three or four metres
(Difficulty 2), which is not recommended for descent. A rope may be useful for those lacking
confidence on rock.
From here, a distinct path wanders easily up the shallow gully, taking in one or two rocky steps
on the way, to the entrance of a small cave called la Trou de la Saignerie. Enter the cave, and
climb the iron ladder, installed in 1939, which leads through a small hole in the roof. From here,
a short shelf takes you back to a narrow, but short, traverse above the cave entrance (slight
exposure).
Continue ascending up the gully to a crack. This is an awkward, but not exposed, scramble which
is a lot easier if rucksacks are taken off first, and passed on up.
The scramble takes you onto a beautiful terrace path, which you follow for a few minutes, the
rocks above being the final obstacle to the crest. The path eventually plunges into the cliff by
means of a rock corridor. This is followed around a couple of right angles to reach the summit
crest, some 2½ hours from leaving the car.
Once at the edge, follow one of the two paths that go north to le Pinet - the one nearest the
crest is the most fun. It's a glorious flower-strewn path, with fantastic views on both sides. The
summit with its cross is reached after about 40 minutes. As one would expect, the views from
the summit (1867 m) are outstanding in all directions including a view of one of the 2016
landslips on Mont Granier, and a disconcerting view of la Plagne below the sheer 400 m cliffs. It's
a wonderful place for lunch, and tends to be less frequented than the main tops of Chartreuse.
To return, start back along the ridge until after a few minutes the main path, way-marked with
yellow flashes, leads off to the left. Follow this until it turns to the left down a shallow valley.
Here we turn right, following sheep tracks along the plateau which is used for grazing. Contour
along the plateau, ignoring the water source down on the left. In less than 20 minutes from
starting on this path, a larger path will be met, and the two combined start to descend past a
large doline. A few minutes later, the path descends into a deep valley with a major path coming
in from the right. The two merge, climb out of the valley, and descend a rake under a small
rocky outcrop, into the main valley near the ruins of an old habert after a further 20 minutes.
From here, you can make your way across to the Chalet de l'Alpe, a bergerie, and pick up the
GR9 which is followed to the right. This crosses some beautiful areas of pavement and rock
gardens, before dropping down the Pas d'Echelles into the Vallon de Pratcel. Turn right at the
bottom, following the valley down to the GR9, and hence back to les Varvats reached some 2½
Page 58
hours from leaving the summit.
Page 59
Le Pinet from la Plagne via Col l'Alpette
Starting point: la Plagne
Difficulty: 1
Ascent: 790 m
Time: 5½ hrs
Quality: ***
This splendid but fairly gentle walk takes us up to the summit of le Pinet, the highest part of the
western ridge of the Alpe which is a stunning viewpoint that overlooks our starting point. After
the inital ascent to the col d'Alpette, the route follows a line of cliffs on a superb path through
the forest, and the recommended descent takes a thin path back down into the pastures of l'Alpe
which allows us to explore a little more of the area. You don't need to carry a lot of water for this
trip, as there is a tap outside the refuge where you can fill up your bottles on the way up, and on
the way down.
The walk starts from la Plagne, and you should leave your car at the parking area on the right
just before the village (1080 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72716 50364).
The route starts (map) by ascending the obvious weakness in the cliffs to the left of the centre
of the cirque. The grass on the horizon in the photograph is the col for which we are heading,
and is the start of the Alpette pastures. It marks the line of a prominent geological strike-slip
fault that cuts through the massif.
Find your way into the centre of the hamlet, either by following the road, or preferably by
following the footpath that cuts out the bend in the road. A sign post indicates the routes to the
Grotte-Colon to the north, but our route ascends to the east towards the cirque wall. It is well
route-marked, being part of the GR9. The stony track ascends steeply between two pastures. At
the top of the pastures, as the path enters the forest, an alternative, and newer, track leads off
half-right. They both join up again a few hundred metres, but the latter is to be preferred as
being less stony and easier on the feet.
The track ascends through the forest, in a somewhat uncompromising way, but after half an hour
you will pass close to the base of the cliff, and half an hour after that you will reach the col de
l'Alpette (1547 m) at a fence, with a synclinal valley before you. This is indeed a beautiful spot,
with high mountain pastures in front, the other side of the valley rising steeply to the crest with
tree-covered lapiaz, and high cliffs protecting the Mont Granier plateau on the left.
We follow the GR9 half-right down a shallow valley towards the Cabane de l'Alpette and the
Habert de l'Alpette nestling in their sheltered depression, which are reached after five minutes.
Here you can fill up your water bottles, and stop for a second breakfast, inevitably shared with
the bergerie hens. From here, we follow the GR9 south past the bergerie, and ascend into the
forests. After ten minutes of pleasant walking through the exquisite dwarf pines and clearings,
there is a large cairn, with a sign post pointing off to the right for le Pinet. Take this path, which
after ten minutes starts to climb. Before long it starts to follow a line beneath cliffs which contain
a number of cave entrances, some of which link into the underlying 60 km long cave system.
This is a delightful path, with the valley deepening on the right, and the cliffs become higher on
the left. After about an hour, the valley shallows, and a short ascent leads onto a plateau area,
with the path to the summit going off to the right. The summit cross is reached some two and
half hours from the car.
As one would expect, the views from the summit are outstanding all round including a view of
one of the 2016 landslips on Mont Granier, and a disconcerting view of la Plagne below the sheer
400 m cliffs. It's a wonderful place for lunch, and tends to be less frequented than the main tops
of Chartreuse.
You can return the way we came up, but a more interesting descent is to make your way down
towards the remains of the haberts de Barraux, on the GR9. However, you do need confidence in
your ability to pick your way along a path which is very thin in places. Make your way back to
where the ascent path emerged from the valley, and take a thin path that parallels the top of the
cliffs. After ten minutes or so it starts to swing to the south running parallel to the main valley.
The occasional cairn will be picked up, and a couple of junctions passed - keep left each time.
After a quarter an hour the path starts to drop more steeply towards the floor of the valley which
is reached after five minutes. Turn towards the left and make your way across the valley as best
you can to reach the GR9 in the area of the remains of a few habitations - les haberts de
Barraux.
Turning left takes you back to the col l'Alpette. An easy descent will then get you back to the car
some 2½ hours or so after leaving the summit.
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Walks on Mont Granier (1933 m)
Mont Granier is positioned fairly and squarely at the northern end of the Chartreuse Massif, and
is justifiably renown for its massive northern face which can be seen to spectacular effect from
the road at the col du Granier, as well as from the town of Chambéry. It is also, however, a
magnificent mountain in its own right which reserves its main attractions for those with the
energy to explore it on foot.
To the north (map), the mountain is totally protected by a huge rampart, which is the result of a
catastrophic collapse in 1248 when a sizable chunk of the mountain fell away resulting in a
devastating avalanche which killed over a thousand people. The southern edge of the mountain
is delimited by the pastures of l'Alpette, from which it is separated by further cliffs which mark
the line of a prominent geological strike-slip fault that cuts through the massif. The Pas des
Barres is a route which allows access from l'Alpette through a weakness in the north-eastern end
of this cliff. The western side, overlooking the Vallée d’Entremonts, is also girdled by massive
cliffs, but with two weaknesses which allow access to the crest.
The starting point for three of the walks is la Plagne. This beautiful little hamlet nestles in a sea
of open pastures in the impressive cirque bounded by the southern summit of mont Granier to
the north and the summit of Le Pinet to the south. Parking may be found on the right at the start
of the prominent zigzag leading to the hamlet, as well as just up from the forestry track leading
from the apex of the zigzag.
The fourth walk, starting from Bellecombe, makes use of the two main passes into the massif
from the east.
Ascent via Col l'Alpette
Ascent via la Grotte Colomb
Ascent via the West Chimney
Ascent from Bellecombe
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Mont Granier via Col l'Alpette and Pas des Barres
Starting point: la Plagne
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 850 m
Time: 3 hrs
Quality: ***
This is a magnificent walk with lots of everything: forest - lapiaz, high pastures, a pleasant crest,
a summit, and a little bit of scrambling. It shouldn't be missed. The time is given for the ascent
only.
The walk starts from la Plagne, and you should leave your car at the parking area on the right
just before the village (1070 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72704 50364).
The route starts (map) by ascending the obvious weakness in the cliffs to the left of the centre
of the cirque. The grass on the horizon in the photograph is the col for which we are heading,
and is the start of the Alpette pastures. It marks the line of a prominent geological strike-slip
fault that cuts through the massif.
Find your way into the centre of the hamlet, either by following the road, or preferably by
following the footpath that cuts out the bend in the road. A sign post indicates the routes to the
Grotte-Colon to the north, but our route ascends to the east towards the cirque wall. It is well
route-marked, being part of the GR9. The stony track ascends steeply between two pastures. At
the top of the pastures, as the path enters the forest, an alternative, and newer, track leads off
half-right. They both join up again a few hundred metres, but the latter is to preferred as being
less stony, and easier on the feet.
The track ascends through the forest, in a somewhat uncompromising way, but after half an hour
you will pass close to the base of the cliff, and half an hour after that you will reach the col de
l'Alpette (1547 m) at a fence, with a synclinal valley before you. This is indeed a beautiful spot,
with high mountain pastures in front, the other side of the valley rising steeply to the crest with
tree-covered lapiaz, and high cliffs protecting the continuation of our crest to both the left and
the right.
The grassy path ahead leads towards the bergerie and refuge located three hundred metres
away, but the sign post at the col indicates clearly that we should take the more obvious, left
hand path. This takes a line just above the valley, and under the barrier of cliffs protecting the
way on to Mont Granier. However, if you prefer, follow the valley itself in a parallel direction,
passing a useful spring after a couple of hundred metres. Don't worry about following a path we are making for the general direction of the two giant boulders on the horizon.
About level with the pair of giant boulders the path starts to ascend towards the cliff. This
splendid path traverses above the valley, occasionally surmounting a rocky step, until it ascends
a line of weakness through the cliff. This is very steep at first, but some useful iron hand rails
and footsteps help you to overcome the harder sections (Grade 2). The path continues up, and
then traverses round to enter the upper Granier basin. From here, the summit is still a couple of
kilometres away, across a wilderness of forest, cliffs, and lapiaz. The route is well marked, and
traverses around the basin below the crest. The views over to the Belledonne range are
outstanding. Take note of the col between the south and north summits, for this is where the
route from the Grotte Balme à Colon arrives at the ridge.
Eventually, the path takes you up onto the crest. This is a splendid section with outstanding
views in all directions. The summit, surmounted by a small cairn, is reached in under three
hours. Although the views are stupendous, it is well worth continuing for a further 300 metres to
the Cross of Granier. This is situated dramatically on the edge of a buttress right at the corner of
the northern cliffs. Behind, you can see all the way down the Vallée d'Entremont to
Chamechaude; ahead may be seen the town of Chambéry spread out, and the Lac du Bourget;
and to the east the Alps disappear into the distance. On a clear day, the Mont Blanc range looks
close enough to touch.
Descents
Although you can descend via the Grotte Balme à Colon, this is not particularly recommended,
being better as an ascent route. However, you will not be disappointed if you retrace your steps,
especially if you take a little time to explore l'Alpette en route. Allow a couple of hours.
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Mont Granier via la Grotte de la Balme à Collomb
Starting point: la Plagne
Difficulty: 1
Ascent: 850 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: ***
If you have the time for just one walk on Mont Granier, you are recommended to make your
ascent by this route, and your descent down the Pas des Barres (map) for a walk you will never
forget.
The walk starts from la Plagne, and you should leave your car at the parking area on the right
just before the village (1070 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72704 50364).
The first target of the route is the Grotte de la Balme à Collomb. This is difficult to pick out from
la Plagne, but it is located at the base of the cliff above the wooded ridge on the skyline to the
north of the village. Note that the cave is incorrectly labeled Grotte Balme à Colon on the IGN
map.
Find your way into the centre of the hamlet, either by following the road, or by following the
footpath that cuts out the bend in the road. A sign post indicates the route to Col l'Alpette to the
east, but we follow the path to the north. This follows a stony track between pastures, which
swings right at Les Granges du Priz (a collection of barns), and left again round the top of the
pastures. The path then ascends steeply through pleasant beech forest, until it levels out after
45 minutes when it reaches the crest of a ridge.
The IGN map marks the path as continuing on into a gully and working its way back onto the
ridge, and this is how it was until a few years ago. Now, however, a good path makes its way
straight up the ridge. Once above the trees, the entrance of the cave can be seen ahead, and it
is reached (1720 m) after about an hour and a quarter.
The way on is to enter the cave. Although the entrance is not large, it rapidly opens out into a
most impressive entrance chamber, 10 metres wide by 4 metres high, with an exit off to the
right. Our way on is through that exit, but it is well worth while first exploring the cave a little
further.
With adequate lighting, it is safe enough to explore the entrance passages. The way descends
gently for 100 metres or so (many ice formations at the beginning of the season) through a
diminishing size passage, before abruptly terminating in a narrow rift. Through the rift, a very
low passage continues with a slight draft emerging. On the return, look under the right wall a
couple of metres from the rift. A low phreatic passage may be seen blocked by a locked metal
door. New passages were found behind here in 1988 which resulted in the discovery of the bones
from over a thousand cave bears dating from a period of 45,000 years ago to 24,000 years ago.
Most have been left in situ, but some are exhibited in the Musée de l'Ours des Cavernes in
Entremont-le-Vieux.
Returning to the entrance chamber, you should exit out of the side entrance, and follow the path
which crosses above the main entrance. The path then follows a grassy traverse for a few
minutes before ascending a gully through the cliffs. Near the top, another traverse follows for a
few hundred metres where it arrives on the crest at the col between the South and North
summits of Mont Granier.
Eventually, the path takes you up onto the crest. This is a splendid section with outstanding
views in all directions. The uninspiring summit, surmounted by a small cairn, is reached in well
under three hours. Although the views are stupendous, it is well worth continuing for a further
300 metres to the Cross of Granier. This is situated dramatically on the edge of a buttress right
at the corner of the northern cliffs. Behind, you can see all the way down the Vallée d'Entremont
to Chamechaude; ahead may be seen the town of Chambéry spread out, and the Lac du
Bourget; and to the east the Alps disappear into the distance. On a clear day, the Mont Blanc
range looks close enough to eat.
Descents
Although you may descend the same way, it is strongly recommended that you return by the col
de l'Alpette for a really satisfying walk. This returns initially along the ridge, and then drops onto
the eastern side. The path off to the Grotte de la Balme à Colomb goes off to the right after half
an hour, but our path swings round a wide basin of forest-covered lapiaz. It eventually leads
round a shoulder to a terrace overlooking the Alpette pastures.
A steep descent down a chimney is made easier by fixed iron steps and railings (Difficulty 2),
and the pastures are reached close to a pair of giant boulders. Turning right leads past a useful
source feeding a cattle trough, to the col de l'Alpette. An easy descent then leads back into la
Plagne, and the car is reached some 2½ hours or so after leaving the summit.
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Mont Granier via the West Chimney
Starting point: la Plagne
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 850 m
Time: 6 hrs
Quality: ***
This excellent walk makes its way through the west cliffs of Mont Granier, and although from
both the road and from the map, it looks steep and tedious (map), in reality it's a wonderful
walk that deposits you close the summit of the hill.
Other guides recommend that the walk is started from Tencovaz, located near the Granier ski
station. There would appear to be some sense in this if you intend to return by the same route,
but doing so goes against the grain, and it is not recommended as a descent route. Moreover,
Tencovaz is a tiny hamlet, and has no parking available which doesn't encroach upon someone's
personal space. This walk starts from la Plagne, and you should leave your car at the parking
area on the right just before the village (1070 m, grid ref. UTM 31T 72704 50364).
From la Plagne, walk back down the road for a few minutes, and turn off to the right along the
road signposted Tencovaz and vers le Mont. This is the GR9a, and leads up a hill to a mast,
where it becomes a track and turns back on itself. Some 45 minutes after leaving the car, you
enter vers le Mont - a small collection of barns. The next section of the route is somewhat off the
orthodox track, and requires a little care, although it is traceable on the IGN map.
At the last barn, the track divides. The GR9a continues to Tencovaz on the track below the barn.
We take the track above the barn, which rises up through the hayfields towards the forest. At
the top of the meadows, a track can be found just in the trees to the right, behind a
broken-down dry stone wall. This soon divides - take the one that contours round to the left.
This soon turns into a path, and descends round the back of a valley over some minor streams.
It then ascends through some open ground, re-enters the forest, and turns into a track again.
This also soon divides - take the path to the right which leads after a couple of minutes onto a
piste, some quarter of an hour after leaving the meadow. We are now back on the orthodox
route from Tencovaz.
Ascend the piste, using the zig-zags where possible. It isn't the most pleasant of ground, but the
wealth of insects and butterflies is adequate compensation for any discomfort . At the top, turn
left past the ski lift to a cabin (1220 m), reached after about 25 minutes. The path continues
behind the cabin, and rises steeply through the woods for another 25 minutes, before emerging
on a steep alp. There is a narrow line of scree rising towards a gully in the cliffs above, and a
path of sorts runs up alongside it. We ascend this to reach the gully after yet another 25
minutes. This has an impenetrable wall at the back, but the route now starts to become more
interesting. Enter the gully, and towards the back scramble up to a sangle which swings south,
ascending a couple of rock bands (Difficulty 2) en route. Finally, the path enters a chimney which
is climbed to a ledge. A short wall then needs to be climbed (also Difficulty 2), which leads to a
very attractive sangle path that heads back to the north. This rapidly rises to the ridge (reached
some 30 minutes after entering the gully) where we are immediately overwhelmed by the view
into the Isère valley, and across to Mont Blanc.
Here we turn right to traverse 650 m of splendid crest with outstanding views in all directions,
towards the rather uninspiring summit which is reached in well under three hours from the car. It
is capped by a small cairn.
Although the views are stupendous, it is well worth continuing for a further 300 metres to the
Cross of Granier. This is situated dramatically on the edge of a buttress right at the corner of the
northern cliffs. Behind, you can see all the way down the Vallée d'Entremont to Chamechaude;
ahead may be seen the town of Chambéry spread out, and the Lac du Bourget; and to the east
the Alps disappear into the distance. On a clear day, the Mont Blanc range looks close enough to
touch.
Descents
Although you may descend the same way, it is strongly recommended that you return by the col
de l'Alpette for a really satisfying walk. This returns initially along the ridge, and then drops onto
the eastern side. The path off to the Grotte de la Balme à Colomb goes off to the right after half
an hour, but our path swings round a wide basin of forest-covered lapiaz. It eventually leads
round a shoulder to a terrace overlooking the Alpette pastures.
A steep descent down a chimney is made easier by fixed iron steps and railings (Difficulty 2),
and the pastures are reached close to a pair of giant boulders. Turning right leads past a useful
source feeding a cattle trough, to the col de l'Alpette. An easy descent then leads back into la
Plagne, and the car is reached some 2½ hours or so after leaving the summit.
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Mont Granier from Bellecombe
Starting point: Bellecombe
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 1250 m
Time: 7 hrs
Quality: ***
Although there are plenty of routes into the massif from the eastern side, there are few that lend
themselves to circular walks, and hence they tend to be rather unsatisfactory. This, however, is
an exception, being a superb walk that allows an aesthetically pleasing circuit to be made. There
are no real difficulties, although the descent makes use of a somewhat de-emphasised (in 2004)
path which can lead to a loss of confidence in one or two places. The route (map) ascends to the
Porte de l'Alpette, surmounts the southern cliffs girdling Mont Granier through the Pas des
Barres, and after visiting the summit, descends via the Pas de la Porte.
This walk starts from Bellecombe - a pretty village which is worth having a wander round.
Entering the village from the north, follow the road through until you see a modern auberge on
the right on the corner of a junction. There is room to park off the road here (690 m, grid ref.
UTM 31T 73189 50382).
The road leading off from the auberge is the Chemin de l'Alpette, which is a good clue as to the
way on. This tarmac road leads past a few houses, before becoming a stony track leading
steeply up past a reservoir on the right. Shortly after a junction is reached - la Colonne (780 m)
with the left being sign-posted Porte de 'Alpette and the right Pas de la Porte. We will be
returning along the latter, but for the ascent we need to keep left.
Once past la Colonne, the track levels out and continues easily for the next half an hour, passing
a number of junctions en route. We simply continue along the main path. Before long, a stream
can be heard somewhere below, and some 40 minutes after leaving the car, an EDF hut is
reached. The path goes off to the right just beyond this, but keeping straight on leads after a
few metres to a pleasent waterfall cascading into an attractive pool created by a small dam.
Back at the hut we turn up towards the Porte de l'Alpette. We are now on a path which climbs
steadily for half an hour to a junction of paths (Rochereau, 1210 m). The way is straight on, but
there is a worthy detour to the left that visits the Source du Cernon. This follows a well-made
path for ten minutes back to the stream bed with water emerging from beneath the boulders,
and cliffs towering overhead. This is the resurgence for the 62 km long cave system known as
the Reseau de l'Alpe, that underlies much of the area from the Habert de St. Vincent in the south
to the Alpette valley in the north.
There is a cave associated with the resurgence which extends almost two kilometres into the
mountain, the end of which is within just a couple of hundred metres of the main cave system,
but this is the exclusive domain of the cave diver.
Returning to the junction, we turn left up the signposted path, and pass a further junction after a
few minutes with our path signposted to the left. Soon the forest starts to open out, and good
views are seen of a thrust tip fold in the cliff wall opposite. Once over a couple of rock barriers,
the path contours round the head of the valley, through a fence, and emerges at the Porte de
l'Alpette some two hours after leaving the car. This is a perfect spot for lunch. Ahead, the valley
descends past the huge split boulder towards the Col de l'Alpette. To the half-left, the ground
rises up towards l'Alpe and the Sommet du Pinet, and to the right, the southern cliffs of Mont
Granier dominate.
We now need to find our way up the barrier of cliffs protecting the way on to Mont Granier. From
the Porte de l'Alpette, find the path that traverses just below them. This leads to the Pas de
Barres, a splendid path that follows an obscure route up the rocks. This is very steep in places,
but some useful iron hand rails and footsteps help you to overcome the harder sections
(Grade 2). The path continues up through some fields of St. Bruno Lily in a wonderland of rocky
outcrops and dwarf pine, and then traverses round to enter the upper Granier basin. From here,
the summit is still over a mile away, across a wilderness of forest, cliffs, and lapiaz. The route is
well marked, and traverses around the basin below the crest. The views over to the Belledonne
range are outstanding.
Eventually, the path takes you up onto the crest. This is a splendid section with outstanding
views in all directions. The summit, capped by a small cairn, is reached in under three hours.
Although the views are stupendous, it is well worth continuing for a further 300 metres to the
Cross of Granier. This is situated dramatically on the edge of a buttress right at the corner of the
northern cliffs. Behind, you can see all the way down the Vallée d'Entremont to Chamechaude;
ahead may be seen the town of Chambéry spread out, and the Lac du Bourget; and to the east
the Alps disappear into the distance. On a clear day, the Mont Blanc range looks close enough to
touch.
The descent starts by following the path that contines above the cliff, initially to the east. This
Page 65
soon drops in to a lovely area of lapiaz and dwarf pine, with fine views. After 20 minutes or so
the path drops into the forest, passes a junction to the right, and soon starts to descend more
steeply. About an hour after leaving the summit, the path crosses a forestry track several times
in ten minutes, before reaching a junction with a well-made track, signposted to the right to
Bellecombe.
Ten minutes later this track divides, and our way starts steeply up to the right. Almost
immediately, however, a path leads off to the left again, marked by a fingerpost. This developes
into one of the excellent contouring paths that are to be found on the eastern flank of the
massif, although as with many, it is not well used and is in urgent of a prune. In a couple of
place the path traverses above some steep drops, protected by cables.
A further junction is soon reached at la Barmette (1250 m), with Bellecombe signposted to the
left. The next 30 minutes is a bit of a forest adventure, following a very overgrown path where
the way on is not always obvious. The simple rules are to take care at what appear to be
junctions, and follow the yellow waymarkings. This section is over when a source is reached.
From here a track is followed back to Bellecombe where the car will be reached some 2½ hours
after leaving the summit.
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Mont Outhéran from le Désert
Starting point: Gite d'Etape, le Désert
Difficulty: 2
Ascent: 600 m
Time: 4 hrs
Quality: **
Mont Outhéran is the north-western block of the Chartreuse Massif. Its summit (1673 m) lies a
good 300 m below those of the main areas, but it has a fine ridge crowning an impressive set of
cliffs. Being somewhat isolated, it offers good views of its more illustrious neighbours, and
imposes itself upon the plains to the west and north.
The walk described is relatively short (map), but during a leisurely four hours it manages to
display to advantage all the features that characterise the best of Chartreuse walking. It is a
classic in miniature especially suitable for when the clouds are on the high tops or when you can
only manage a short day. It may also be combined conveniently with a visit to the Musée de
l'Ours des Cavernes en Chartreuse in Entremont-le-Vieux. The area is also home to one of the
massif's few pairs of golden eagles, so you may be rewarded with a glimpse of these magnificent
birds.
We start from the large car park below the Gite d'Etape above le Désert (1180 m, grid ref.
UTM 31T 72383 50387), approached from Entremont-le-Vieux (called Epernay on the IGN map).
This lies in a pleasant rural area which in winter is a centre for nordic skiing.
From the car follow the road south for a kilometre (we find it better to tackle the tarmac at the
start of the day) to a group of buildings signed les Bruyère, where there is another car park on
the left. Leave the road here and follow a path which passes to the right of the auberge into the
woods. After 15 minutes, the path crosses a narrow pasture before plunging back into the woods
again. The path rises more steeply through these to the Col du Grappillon (1509 m) which is a
lovely spot. A forestry track has obliterated much of the traditional path, but some sections may
still be followed, providing some light relief.
The hard work is now done, and this is where the walk really takes off! Turn right at the col to
follow a way-marked path snaking up the ridge through the trees to reach the base of the cliffs
after quarter of an hour. The path then follows a terrace to the right for a couple of minutes
before ascending easily up some short rocky steps (Difficuly 2) to the ridge, reached within 90
minutes of leaving the car.
The arrival point is a pleasant spot from which to admire the view towards the Grand Som, but
the summit cross may be found some 300 m along the ridge, and this is a convenient place from
which to admire the view and have lunch. The views to the north and east are particularly
impressive.
A yellow way-marked path now picks its way along the ridge, through a delightful combination of
rocky outcrops, small trees, and clearings. It really is an exquisite place. After an hour, the path
passes to the right of a hut, and begins to descend - in one area picking its way between a
number of open shafts. Fifteen minutes from the hut the path descends more rapidly through the
eastern rocky ramparts, with the bottom half being a little messy, before arriving back in the
valley. Turning right at a junction with a track returns us to the car within twenty minutes.
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