Québec City

Transcription

Québec City

Québec City
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QUÉBEC CITY
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Québec City
5th edition
Dans la ville où je suis né, le passé porte le présent
comme un enfant sur ses épaules...
“In the town where I was born, the past carries the present
like a child on its shoulders...”
Le Confessionnal
Robert Lepage
TExtrait
r a vdeelalpublication
better, enjoy more
1
2
Extrait de la publication
3
4
Historic Québec City
1.
Built in 1688, Église Notre-Damedes-Victoires is the oldest church
in Canada. (page 66) © Dreamstime.com/Jf123
2.
Beautiful Place Royale, where
Samuel de Champlain founded
Québec City in 1608. (page 66) © iStockphoto.com/Tony Tremblay
3.
An officer participates in the
changing of the guard in front of
the Citadelle. (page 62) © Dreamstime.com/Gary Blakeley
4.
An old house in Vieux-Québec with
its typical small-paned windows.
(page 54) 5.
The Fortifications of Québec
National Historic Site outlines the
development of the city’s defence
system. (page 49) © iStockphoto.com/Sebastien Cote
© Parks Canada, B. Ostiguy
5
1
Culture and Lifestyle
1.
Palais Montcalm welcomes music lovers in its splendid
concert hall, Salle Raoul-Jobin. (page 84) © Philippe Renault
2.
Designed by architect Moshe Safdie, the Musée de la
Civilisation recalls traditional Québec architecture with its
stylized roof and dormer windows. (page 70) © Philippe Renault
3.
An enchanting winter scene in the Petit-Champlain district.
(page 63) © Mathieu Dupuis
4.
Built in 1675, Maison Jacquet now houses the renowned
restaurant Aux Anciens Canadiens, which serves traditional
Québécois specialties. (pages 54, 154) © Philippe Renault/Hemis
2
3
4
5
6
Culture and Lifestyle (continued)
5.
Many of the houses on bustling Grande Allée have been converted
into bars and restaurants with terraces sheltered by multitudes of
parasols. (page 78) © Philippe Renault/Hemis
6.
Pleasant Rue Saint-Paul is lined with antique shops and art galeries.
(page 71) © Philippe Renault/Hemis
7.
A sculpture entitled “La Vivrière” stands over pretty Place de la FAO
in the Vieux-Port area. (page 71) © Philippe Renault/Hemis
8.
Ice skating on Place D’Youville with Bonhomme Carnaval, the
Carnaval de Québec’s famous ambassador. (pages 123, 174) © Carnaval de Québec
7
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2
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Around Québec City
1.
The golden fields of Île d’Orléans, with
the Charlevoix region’s mountains in the
background. (page 112) 2.
The granite facade of the towering
Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré.
(page 110) 3.
The magnificent spectacle of
Montmorency Falls, one of the most
impressive natural phenomena in the
province. (page 109) 4.
The architecture of the Hôtel-Musée
Premières Nations is based on Iroquoian
longhouses. (page 107) © iStockphoto.com/grafxcom
© Mathieu Dupuis
© Mathieu Dupuis
4
© Jean Désy
358
40
Saint-Augustinde-Desmaures
138
CapRouge
40
740
Saint-Sauveur
p. 90
540
40
73
eu
i
nt
Saint-Romuald
Fl
Sa
SILLERY
ve
138
440
Vieux-Port
p. 70
368
Vieux-Québec
p. 48
Île
d'Orléans
and Île d’Orléans
p. 108
138
360
Côte-de-Beaupré
Petit-Champlain
and Place-Royale
p. 63
Lévis
Saint-Roch
p. 85
BEAUPORT
40
Parliament Hill
and Grande Allée
p. 74
Québec
Limoilou
p. 93
SAINTE-FOY
440
Vanier
369
CHARLESBOURG
Faubourg
138
Saint-Jean-Baptiste
p. 82
Chemin
Sainte-Foy
p. 97
371
73
Saint-Émile
Heading
North
p. 104
L'AncienneLorette
573
Loretteville
Wendake
Sillery
to Cap-Rouge
p. 100
Aéroport International
de Québec
(Jean-Lesage)
Val-Bélair
369
573
371
L
Valcartier
Military Base
t
en
au
r
Boischatel
SUGGESTED TOURS
Guide Update for the Fifth Edition : Annie Gilbert
Editor : Pierre Ledoux
Associate Editor : Julie Brodeur
Copy Editing and Translation for the Fifth Edition : Matthew McLauchlin
Research and Writing for Previous Editions : Marie-Josée Guy, Marie-Josée Béliveau, Stéphane G. Marceau, François Rémillard
Translation for Previous Editions : Cindy Garayt, Janet Logan
Computer Graphics : Pascal Biet
Photographies : Cover Page, Fresque des Québécois : © Philippe Renault/Hemis; Page 1, Fontaine de Tourny : © iStockphoto.com/
Tony Tremblay; View of Château Frontenac from the Petit-Champlain district : © Shutterstock.com/Kenneth V. Pilon
This work was produced under the direction of Claude Morneau.
Acknowledgements
Thank you to Paule Bergeron and Nathalie Guay of Québec City Tourism, Sébastien Desnoyers and Jason Picard-Binet of Tourism
Wendake, Chrystiane Deschênes, Catherine Gilbert, Clément Laberge, Marc Boutet and Gilles Herman for their help.
We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program
(BPIDP) for our publishing activities. We would also like to thank the Government of Québec – Tax credit for book publishing –
Administered by SODEC.
Note to Readers
The information contained in this guide was correct at press time. However, mistakes may slip by, omissions are always possible,
establishments may move, etc. The authors and publisher hereby disclaim any liability for loss or damage resulting from omissions or
errors.
Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec and Library and Archives Canada cataloguing in publication
Main entry under title :
Québec City
(Ulysses travel guide)
Includes index.
ISSN 1717-4767
ISBN 978-2-89464-931-2
1. Québec (Québec) - Guidebooks.
FC2946.18.R4513
917.14’471045
C2005-301538-X
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, without the written permission of
the publisher.
© April 2012, Ulysses Travel Guides
All rights reserved
Printed in Canada
ISBN 978-2-89464-931-2 (Printed Version)
ISBN 978-2-89665-075-0 (Digital PDF Version)
11
My...
Québec
City!
Discover our editorial team’s special favourites in the “Best of Québec
City” section, and check out our list of “Ten Quintessential Québec City
Experiences” to get to know the capital as it really is. Then have a look
at the itineraries in the “In Due Time” section to get the most out of
your visit, whether a whistle stop or a multi-day stay.
ulyssesguides.com
Here are our choices for the best, most essential sights and stops you
should know about to explore Québec City like an expert.
12
The Best
of Québec City
Free attractions
Holy Trinity Anglican Cathedral p. 55
Battlefields Park p. 81
Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de
Québec p. 56
Bois-de-Coulonge p. 101
Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires
p. 66
A stroll along the streets of VieuxQuébec (p. 48) or Petit-Champlain
(p. 63)
Hôtel du Parlement p. 75
Maison des Jésuites de Sillery p. 102
Best views
Observatoire de la Capitale p. 79
Parc de la Plage-Jacques-Cartier p. 104
Pointe-à-Puiseaux promontory p. 102
Observation tower in Saint-François-del’Île-d’Orléans p. 115
L’Astral revolving restaurant p. 159
Terrasse Dufferin p. 52
Québec-Lévis ferry p. 38
For nature lovers
Parc de la Chute Montmorency p. 109
Jardin Jeanne-d’Arc p. 79
Parc de la Plage-Jacques-Cartier p. 104
Abraham Plains p. 81
Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier
p. 121
Jardin de Saint-Roch p. 88
Domaine Maizerets p. 94
Parc de la Chute Montmorency p. 109
For culture buffs
Méduse p. 88
Happy hour at Le Cercle p. 172
The Image Mill p. 72
ulyssesguides.com
An outdoor concert at the Festival d’Été
de Québec p. 174
A play at the Grand Théâtre p. 79
Musée National des Beaux-Arts du
Québec p. 80
A show at the Capitole de Québec
p. 82
Espace Félix-Leclerc p. 116
A movie at Le Clap p. 174
A concert at Palais Montcalm (p. 84)
or Bal du Lézard (p. 173)
13
For kids and their parents
Musée de la Civilisation p. 70
Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier
p. 121
Choco-Musée Érico p. 85
Onhoüa Chetek8e p. 107
Aquarium du Québec p. 102
Musée de l’Abeille p. 110
Ice Hotel p. 106
Benjo p. 187
For cyclists
Promenade Samuel-De Champlain p. 104
Corridor des Cheminots p. 121
Vélopiste Jacques-Cartier–Portneuf
p. 121
For a picnic
Parc de la Chute-Montmorency p. 109
Domaine Maizerets p. 94
Abraham Plains p. 81
Jardin de Saint-Roch p. 88
Plage-Jacques-Cartier Park p. 104
…and to stock up before
Marché du Vieux-Port p. 72
Morena p. 183
Épicerie J. A. Moisan p. 85
Épicerie Européenne p. 183
Les Halles du Petit-Quartier p. 183
The best stays
lap of luxury
hhFor
businesspeople
Delta Québec p. 132
Hôtel Le Germain-Dominion p. 131
Hilton Québec p. 132
hhFor
Loews Hôtel Le Concorde p. 132
history lovers
Auberge Baker p. 135
hhThe
Fairmont Le Château Frontenac p. 129
Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations p. 134
Hôtel Clarendon p. 129
Ice Hotel Québec-Canada p. 134
most original
Auberge Le Vieux-Presbytère p. 137
ulyssesguides.com
hhThe
Fairmont Le Château Frontenac p. 129
14
The best dining
hhFine
dining
hhCreative
cuisine
Auberge La Camarine p. 164
Panache Mobile p. 165
La Fenouillère p. 163
Restaurant Dazibo p. 164
Laurie Raphaël p. 157
La Traite p. 164
Le Champlain p. 154
Sagamité p. 164
Le Saint-Amour p. 154
Nek8arre p. 163
La Tanière p. 163
La Tanière p. 163
Ristorante Michelangelo p. 163
Le Patriarche p. 153
hhTerraces
hhBring
Restaurant du Musée p. 158
Chez-Soi La Chine p. 152
your own wine
Le Moulin de Saint-Laurent p. 165
Thang Long p. 159
Ristorante Il Teatro p. 161
Le Carthage p. 160
Panache Mobile p. 165
To enjoy a cup of coffee or tea
Brûlerie Saint-Roch p. 161
Chez Temporel p. 151
Le Nektar p. 161
Café Krieghoff p. 157
To sip a cocktail
Le Cercle p. 172
Le Drague – Cabaret Club p. 172
Boudoir Lounge p. 172
ulyssesguides.com
To party with the locals
Carnaval de Québec p. 174
Festival d’Été de Québec p. 174
Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France p. 175
Grands Feux Loto-Québec p. 175
Québec City...
15
In Due Time
One Day
For a short but fun trip focusing on culture and history, stick to Vieux-Québec. Dive into the
heart of the Petit-Champlain neighbourhood, with its cobblestone streets lined with art galleries and craft shops. Visit the Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Québec, a masterpiece of religious architecture, and the Centre d’Interprétation de Place-Royale to trace
the city’s history to its roots. Finish up your trip with window shopping within the city walls on
Rue Saint-Jean, the city’s main shopping artery, followed by a drink in a Saint-Roch neighbourhood bar. If your tastes run more to discovering the sculptors and painters who left their
mark on Québec art history, replace one of the above with a visit to the Musée National des
Beaux-Arts du Québec.
Two Days
A two-day stay in the capital of Québec will give you time to visit Grande Allée, the grand
boulevard whose upper-class homes now house restaurants and nightclubs. Take a stroll
through the steep, narrow streets of the Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste, ending up at
lively Avenue Cartier, freshly spruced up with wider sidewalks and new lighting. Take a break
at the Battlefields Park, a green oasis at the heart of the city with an amazing view of
the river. The curious shouldn’t forget a stop at the Séminaire de Québec, once a haven
of French civilization in a harsh, hostile land, and now home to the fascinating Musée de
l’Amérique Française.
One Week
For a well-rounded week, supplement the above with a visit to La Citadelle, witness to three
centuries of military history in North America. Discover the turning points of Québec City’s history at the Fortifications of Québec National Historic Site where you’ll discover the unique
city walls, and at the Artillery Park Heritage Site and its beautiful white roughcast Dauphine
Redoubt.
If you’re interested in the city’s most famous landmarks, continue on to the Château Frontenac, the magnificent hotel towering above the St. Lawrence, or the Hôtel du Parlement, seat
of the National Assembly of Québec, where you can admire the splendid Fontaine de Tourny.
Get a unique view of Québec City from the vantage point of the Vieux-Port; running along
the riverbank to the Bassin Louise, the port hosts activities of all kinds. Then, if you (and your
legs) are up for it, enjoy the view as you climb Côte de la Montagne. Get your camera out for
ulyssesguides.com
Modern Québec is well represented at the Musée de la Civilisation, whose beautiful, uncluttered architecture hosts exhibits on the customs and values of today’s Québec.
16
classic vacation photos from the Terrasse Dufferin, and continue along the Promenade des
Gouverneurs to the summit of legendary Cap Diamant.
For an excursion, head for Île d’Orléans to discover its enchanting landscapes and small farms.
On the way, stop at Parc de la Chute Montmorency to admire Québec’s highest waterfall. If
outdoor activities are your thing, Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier and Station Touristique Duchesnay have plenty to offer. Finally, for an experience off the beaten path, head to
Wendake and discover the territory of the Huron-Wendat nation.
Ten Quintessential
Québec City
Experiences
Seeing the city at your feet from the Observatoire de la Capitale p. 79
Wandering back in time on the narrow, winding streets of Vieux-Québec p. 48
Strolling in Battlefields Park (the Plains of Abraham), one of the country’s most
beautiful urban parks p. 81
Window-shopping among the profusion of crafts in the Petit-Champlain district p. 178
Discovering the authentic Québec City atmosphere during the Festival d’Été (p. 174)
or the Carnaval (p. 174)
Taking in the amazing panorama of the Saint Lawrence River from the Terrasse
Dufferin, in front of the Château Frontenac p. 52
Admiring the capital’s numerous beautiful murals p. 68
Exploring Île d’Orléans and discovering its home-grown products p. 112
Reliving the earliest days of the colony through period costumes at the grand parade
of the Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France p. 175
ulyssesguides.com
Walking atop the walls of Québec City with an expert guide p. 49
17
Behind the Words
This latest version of Ulysses Québec City
was updated by Annie Gilbert. A longtime
former Québec City resident who returns
there frequently, Annie is the perfect guide
for your tour of the capital of Québec.
Born in the Abitibi region, she is equally at
home fishing on a tranquil lake or shopping
in a trendy boutique in Paris, New York, or
London.
Annie has contributed to several Ulysses
guides including Boston, Croisières dans les
Caraïbes, Hawaii, and On va où aujourd’hui?
ulyssesguides.com
Annie Gilbert
Following her studies in tourism, Annie
joined the Ulysses team, where she has
held several different positions. She started as a bookstore worker before joining the
editorial team, where her in-depth knowledge has been invaluable in preparing our
guidebooks.
18
Contents
Portrait21
Geography22
History23
Politics27
Economy29
Population30
Art and Culture
30
Architecture31
Practical Information
33
Entrance Formalities
Getting There and Getting Around
Useful Information, from A to Z
34
34
40
Exploring47
Vieux-Québec48
Petit-Champlain and Place-Royale
63
Vieux-Port70
Parliament Hill and Grande Allée
74
Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste
82
Saint-Roch85
Saint-Sauveur90
Limoilou93
Chemin Sainte-Foy
97
Sillery to Cap-Rouge
100
Heading North
104
Côte-de-Beaupré and Île d’Orléans
108
Outdoors119
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Contents
Parks120
Outdoor Activities
120
Accommodations125
Vieux-Québec126
130
Vieux-Port130
131
132
Saint-Roch132
Sainte-Foy133
Near the Airport
Heading North
134
134
135
Restaurants149
Vieux-Québec151
154
Vieux-Port155
157
159
Saint-Roch161
Limoilou162
Sainte-Foy162
Sillery 163
Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures163
Heading North
163
164
Entertainment169
Bars and Nightclubs
170
Cultural Events
173
Festivals and Other Events
174
Spas175
Sports175
Shopping177
Main Shopping Streets and Malls
178
Antiques178
Art Galleries
178
Bookstores179
Clothing179
Cosmetics180
Craft Shops and Artisans’ Studios
180
Decorative Objects
182
Food and Kitchen Products
182
Furs185
Jewellery185
Music185
Newspapers and Tobacco
185
186
Outdoor Accessories
Relaxation186
186
Shoes and Hats
Stationery187
Toys187
Souvenirs187
Index190
English-French
Glossary202
Map Symbols
216
Symbols Used
In This Guide
216
19
201
Table of Distances
List of Maps
Chemin Sainte-Foy
Attractions 98-99
Accommodations, restaurants,
bars and nightclubs 147
Québec City Region 36
Saint-Roch
Attractions 87
Attractions 83
Attractions 77
Attractions 67
Sillery
Attractions 103
Restaurants 146
Vieux-Port
Attractions 73
Vieux-Québec
Attractions 51
List of In-Depth Articles
A Brief Summary of Québec City’s
History 23
Baillargé or Baillairgé? 57
Children’s Favourite Attractions 117
Let There Be Light! 31
Riopelle 81
Rue du Trésor, an Artists’ Haven 58
Blessed Bread Street 66
Félix Leclerc 113
Montcalm’s Remains 92
Small Panes of Glass 54
S-Shaped Linchpins 69
Vaults 65
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Limoilou
Attractions 95
Restaurants, bars and nightclubs 146
List of Maps - List of In-Depth Articles
Saint-Sauveur
Attractions 91
Where is Québec City?
P.E.I.
Rimouski
NEW
BRUNSWICK
Saguenay
Halifax
QUÉBEC
NOVA
SCOTIA
Trois-Rivières
Sherbrooke
I
UN
T
OC
C
TI
New York
N
Detroit
ED
NiagaraFalls
Falls
Niagara
Boston
A
Montréal
Ottawa
Toronto Toronto
Chicago
Gaspé
Baie-Comeau
ES
ONTARIO
A
Sept-Îles
AT
RouynNoranda
D
EAN
N
C A
A
QUÉBEC
ST
20
AT
L
ulyssesguides.com
Québec City
Area: 450km2
Time Zone: UTC –5
Population: Metropolitan area: 750,000 inhabitants
Québec City: 550,000 inhabitants
Official Language: French
Québec City Is... Climate: ... the oldest French-speaking city in
North America
Average temperatures:
January: –11°C
July: 19°C
Average precipitation:
Snow: 337cm
Rain: 883mm
... the provincial capital of Québec
... the only fortified city north of Mexico
... Vieux-Québec, Québec City’s historic
district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
21
Portrait
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Geography22 Population30
History23 Art and Culture30
Politics27 Architecture31
Economy29
22
R
ich in history and architecture, magnificent Québec City is set amidst
an exceptional natural landscape. Even though Québec City is one
of the oldest cities in North America and the oldest in Canada, it is
firmly turned to the future.
The Haute-Ville (upper town) sits on a promontory, Cap Diamant, which is more than 98m
high and juts out over the St. Lawrence River. During his third trip, Jacques Cartier named
this rocky outcrop “Cap aux Diamants,” believing he had discovered diamonds and gold
here. But he quickly learned that these precious stones were nothing more than common
fool’s gold and quartz. Nevertheless, Cap Diamant became the future site of Québec City
when Champlain established a fur trading post and fortified buildings, creating the settlement known as “Abitation.”
This site played a strategic role in New France’s defence system. Here the St. Lawrence
River is only 1km wide, and it is this narrowing of the river that gave Québec City the
name “Kebec,” an Algonquin word meaning “place where the river narrows.” Perched on
top of Cap Diamant and surrounded by major fortifications from very early on, the city is
commonly dubbed the “Gibraltar of North America.”
This fortification did not succeed, however, in driving back the English troops who finally
captured the city during the Battle of the Plains of Abraham. Yet the French colony managed
to retain its cultural identity after the Conquest. Well protected inside its walls, Québec City’s
heart continued to beat, making it the centre of French Canadian culture in North America.
In 1985, in order to preserve and promote Québec City and its cultural treasures, UNESCO
declared the city’s historic area—the only walled city in North America—North America’s
first World Heritage Site.
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Portrait - Geography
Affectionately known as the “Vieille Capitale” (Old Capital City), but usually simply called
“Québec” by the Québécois, Québec City is the soul of the French-speaking Americas.
Thousands of tourists visit it every year and marvel at the city’s many charms, its European
atmosphere and its inhabitants’ joie de vivre and hospitality. The architecture and narrow
cobblestone streets give the city its character. A romantic place that never fails to fascinate,
Québec City has been a source of inspiration to artists for more than three centuries. It is a
delight for both the eye and the soul. This little gem is irresistible and whether you visit in
the summer, winter, spring or autumn, you cannot help but give in to its charm.
Geography
Québec City covers an area of 450km2 and has a population of more than half a million people, mostly French-speaking. Its six boroughs—La Cité–Limoilou, Les Rivières,
Sainte-Foy–Sillery–Cap-Rouge, Charlesbourg, Beauport, and La Haute-Saint-Charles—are
divided into 35 different neighbourhoods.
Downtown Québec City occupies the Saint-Roch neighbourhood in the Basse-Ville area.
The Haute-Ville (upper town) and Basse-Ville (lower town) are an easy geographical reference commonly used by the city’s residents. You’ll have no trouble telling the first, with
its prosperous buildings atop Cap Diamant, from the second, an area with working-class
roots spreading from the foot of the cape.
216
Map Symbols
Attractions
National capital
Accommodations
Provincial or state capital
Restaurants
International border
Provincial or regional border
Train track
Tunnel
Bars and nightclubs
Sea, lake, river
Forest or park
Place
Building
Bus Station
Cemetery
Ferry
Fortifications
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Map Symbols - Symbols Used In This Guide
Fortifications
Gate
Funicular/
Elevator
Museum
Hospital
Pedestrian
Street
International
Airport
Stairway
Market
Tourist
Information
Mountain
Train Station
2
88
88
Trans-Canada Highway
Highway
Major Road
Symbols Used In This Guide
r
î
V
Ulysses favourite
Breakfast included
Bring your own wine
Attraction Classification
«««
««
«
Not to be missed
Worth a visit
Interesting
Accommodation Classification
Unless otherwise noted, all prices indicated in this
guide apply to a standard room for two people in
peak season.
$
$$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
less than $60
from $60 to $100
from $101 to $150
from $151 to $225
more than $225
Restaurant Classification
Prices in this guide are for a meal for one person,
excluding taxes and tip.
$
$$ $$$ $$$$ less than $15
from $15 to $25
from $26 to $50
more than $50
All prices in this guide
are in Canadian dollars.
w w w.ulyssesguides.com
© Alexandre Payette
Travel better,
enjoy more
QUÉBEC
Boston
D
NiagaraFalls
Falls
Niagara
Chicago
ST
Ottawa
Toronto
Toronto
Detroit
U
NI
TE
N
Halifax
NOVA
SCOTIA
AT
Montréal
EA
D A QUÉBEC
OC
A
IC
ONTARIO
PRINCE EDWARD
ISLAND
NEW
BRUNSWICK
T
N
ES
C
A
New York
AT
LA
N
Discover
Explore Québec City and its region like a
pro with a dozen unique tours through its
vibrant neighbourhoods and magnificent
attractions.
Indulge
Choose from hand-picked restaurants,
cafés and bars, hotels and inns for all
budgets, original shops, and exciting events
and festivals.
Enjoy
Be inspired by our authors’ suggestions
for uncovering Québec City’s hidden
treasures.
Play
Discover the majestic parks and countless
outdoor activities that the region offers
year round.
Plan
Travel stress-free with Ulysses’ clear maps
and useful information.
Live Québec City
to the fullest with Ulysses!
www.ulyssesguides.com
ISBN 978-2-89665-075-0
(digital version)

Québec City

Transcription

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