E s t o n ia 62 - Regione Abruzzo
Transcription
E s t o n ia 62 - Regione Abruzzo
ROMANTIC HISTORY OF LACE From a legend: Once upon a time there was a beautiful but poor girl who loved and was loved by a poor young artist. One day the girl‘s mother became so ill that, in order to obtain healing, having no other means, the girl gave her word to the Holy Mother to give up her love for the young artist. Sitting in the shade of a large tree, informing him about the promise, on her apron fell a fine, complex and delicate spider’s web. The two lovers remained spellbound and she immediately thought of trying to reproduce it with a fine thread. The young boy covered it with some branches of the tree and spanned the apron between four sticks in order to take home the precious design of the web. So while the girl copied the design with her thread, the boy helped her to keep the threads in order, to stop them curling up and tangling, by tying a wooden stick to the end of each thread. Thus from love and art was born the first bobbin lace. The work was appreciated by the ladies of the city who handsomely rewarded the young maker of the wonderful web. With the mother’s return to well-being and health came the moment for the girl to leave her lover. Once again, however, the miracle was repeated. From the same tree under which the two lovers were crying about their separation, fell another web on which it was written the release from the promise. As coordinator of the Project Lace4fashion I want to imagine that starting from such a legend it is impossible not to have only fine, complex and delicate works realised by the hands of fantastic lace makers around Europe. The project Lace4fashion is based on the results of a networking experience between partners with the aim of affording new challenges to improve the importance, attractiveness and value of innovative lacemaking. As little spiders, institutions from 5 European countries, will use common non-formal learning tools as a web to enhance skills and competence to enable peer-learning activities of lacemakers. Lacemaking, that in the past has given to women an opportunity to enter the labour market and support their families economically, is for the present and the future a stepping stone for new and creative opportunities to improve their cultural heritage. Lacemaking spread all over Europe using different techniques and styles and can be considered as way to promote local spatial economy, to re-discover, analyse and spread the common historical 2 and cultural roots of European countries. Experience of previous networking has shown that enhanced cooperation can strengthen and increase the quality and attractiveness of bobbin lace. The specific experience of each member of the partnership will be the platform to reinforce the links between vocational education and the labour market but above all reinforce the assent to a mutual European cooperation. To conclude, I would like to add some quotes from known persons to give an idea of the importance of lace at the historical and cultural level. “The real good of a piece of lace, then, you will find, is that it should show, first, that the designer of it had a pretty fancy; next, that the maker of it had fine fingers; lastly, that the wearer of it has worthiness or dignity enough to obtain what is difficult to obtain, and common sense enough not to wear it on all occasions”. John Ruskin (Writer London 1819–1900) “I consider lace to be one of the prettiest imitations ever made of the fantasy of nature; lace always evokes for me those incomparable designs which the branches and leaves of trees embroider across the sky, and I do not think that any invention of the human spirit could have a more graceful or precise origin” Coco Chanel, April 29th1939 “There are no mistakes in lace, just misdirected threads that present a new challenge” Barbara Bulgarelli, Arachne. Bobbin Lace…What else? Thanks to all participants for their wonderful contribution to the project implementation. Rita Di Matteo 3 I taly Region Abruzzo, with its political and administrative government, has competence in practically all fields and through its Departments for civil services, youth policy, cultural heritage, social policies, public health, handicraft, trade, immigration, tourism, natural risks, environmental protection, energy, etc., is in a position to be in contact with local authorities and institutions to develop territorial planning and to guide politics. The territory of the Region Abruzzo, stretching between the Apennine chain and the Adriatic Sea, has natural, cultural, historical and artistic attractions, offering visitors experiences that they cannot have in the cities. The data published on living in the Abruzzo mountains shows for the little mountain centre a marginalised situation, estimated on the basis of objective parameters such as demography, productivity, standard of living and availability of services. On this basis can be considered the willingness of politics to focus attention on the regions, especially those known for their artistic handicrafts. The high level of handicraft specifically developed in the inner parts of Region Abruzzo, represents an enormous source of wealth of a territory at risk of depopulation. The active participation of women to avoid loss of cultural heritage and labour market can revitalise and make more attractive a territory already rich in natural, architectural, cultural patrimony and typical high quality products. The opportunity to share good practices with lacemakers of other countries can give to the women of the area the possibility of increasing their knowledge and at the same time of giving their families economical support and family care without leaving their houses. Lace has not only represented one of the sources of economical independence for women in the past, but even in the present, with the application of innovative techniques, it can give them the opportunity to improve their income. The role of Region Abruzzo as coordinator, with its experience in project management, will provide an opportunity of sharing work with other organisations to establish a platform of skilled persons. This will improve their awareness of how 4 tradition can be transformed into innovative, creative and equal opportunities for women and men working together. Importance of lace in the region. Three important centres can represent Region Abruzzo in Europe: L’Aquila, Pescocostanzo and Scanno. Below are some brief notes on the different techniques. L’Aquila To understand the characteristics of ancient L’Aquila lace, it is necessary to set its evolution in the historical context of the town through the centuries since its foundation. The town was built during the second half of the XIII century (from 1240 to 1290) by an industrious middle class and a rich aristocracy. Because of its famous products (especially wool) and its geographical position (on the border between the Kingdom of Naples and the Papal States) it became within a few years very important for political and economical reasons. Thus L’Aquila used to sell its lace in Venice where German people and other merchants came to buy Italian products. It is clear then that there were close contacts with all the main centres in Europe that were also the main centres for the production of lace. At the end of the XVI century the town was conquered by the Spaniards who tried to dominate the population and extract heavy tributes. Margherita d’Austria asked her brother for the governorship of L’Aquila to improve the lifestyle of the court in terms of culture, art and trade. She gave almost immediately a new impulse to the activities of the citizens and introduced the town to European markets. This could be the reason why the lace in L’Aquila evolved in the direction of that of Flanders. The production of trimmings in the town was probably the favourable base for the evolution of lace. In addition, the good reputation of the lace was a result of the high quality of the thread used, a particularly white, thin but strong thread, and of the elegant designs produced with a sophisticated technique. Lace was worked mainly to decorate ecclesiastical vestments by the numerous nuns who cultivated flax in the gardens of the convents and then produced the special fine linen thread. Already in the XVI century the designs were very elaborate and fine: elongated tallies (fogliette) were used to form flowers and wheatears inside round areas delimited by a narrow tape, or to form a ground. In the following centuries the techniques and designs evolved into the northern European (Flanders, England,…) style, into what is called “punto antico aquilano”. 5 The elaborate designs, the variety of stitches used and the thinness of the thread made the work very rich and elegant. It is impossible to state the exact beginning of this evolution but we can find some answers in the above short historical note. Pescocostanzo. The first documents about lace in Pescocostanzo are from a XVII century description of a dowry. The designs are formed by tapes which fill the space with symmetrical patterns so that a ground is not necessary. The result is dense, without specific transparency. Besides this, another kind of pattern is worked with a kind of rosette very like that found in Genoese lace. This is due to the fact that in the XVII century many workers from Lombardy were called to Pescocostanzo to restore and build houses and churches. They moved with their families and their marked influence in the town is documented by the architecture, the building techniques and even in the persistence there of the Ambrosian rite. It is clear that these families became integrated into the local population, so it is easy to imagine that women exchanged their knowledge and abilities, in particular in the production of lace. The contemporary presence of Milanese and Genoan styles should not surprise us since in northern Italy these styles of lace developed simultaneously and only in the original towns did the workers defend their own technique. Scanno The most plausible hypothesis for why bobbin lacemaking came to an isolated and mountainous village such as Scanno is linked to the arrival of Lombardy’s master builders and masons in 1700 for the reconstruction of palace portals. Their wives could have taught the technique to the women of such places. Other influences on lacemaking were the Maritime Republics of Venice and Genoa, and date back to 1600 when the nearby town of Castel di Sangro was the market place in which goods were exchanged. The sailors, who reached the coast through the interior, traded their products, among which are mentioned lace together with typical products of Scanno: wool and cheese. The oldest documents that testify to the presence in Scanno of bobbin lace date from the late 1500s. Other theses argue that production of lace in Scanno already took place in the first half of 800, when the bodice of Scanno’s women “ju cummudine” was trimmed with lace around the neck. Along with the lacemaking techniques, also designs that were mostly made by the artists of the 6 Renaissance arrived in Abruzzo. These drawings were used as models mainly by wealthy women. Women who could not afford the luxury of owning such a manual began to create designs on paper themselves. Similarities and difference between the techniques: In the early lace the differences between lace from L’Aquila and Pescocostanzo are a result of the thinness of thread, the designs used and the fact that in L’Aquila lace was worked by nuns (and this, according to E. Ricci made the work much finer and more elaborate) and in Pescocostanzo by the local women, mainly for the dowries of their daughters. This can be documented also by the names of the stitches. In L’Aquila we find the Italian version of the common ones (fondo delle rose, rete dieppe, etc.) and also early patterns which are very similar to those produced in Flanders or Germany or England. In Pescocostanzo there are local expressions for stitches and designs. This demonstrates that the two kinds of lace, even though they started from a common background and had continuous knowledge of each other, evolved along different tracks. Elisa Ricci says “… Both in L’Aquila and Pescocostanzo we find tape lace. In L’Aquila, the tape is finer and narrow, runs continuously as in Milanese lace to form figures, flowers and volutes, but with its frequent curves it fills the space and does not leave room for bars or ground. When the lace, becoming finer and lighter, makes a ground necessary, the lace-makers from L’Aquila make one that is completely different from that in Milanese lace and is characteristic of L’Aquila’s lace. Furthermore the technique is different because, while in Milan they work first the tape and then, by tying in other threads, the ground, in L’Aquila the two parts are worked together”. The techniques of Scanno can be described by the origins of the points that characterize the lace of Scanno: they come from the school of Genoa, Venice and Milan. 7 Michela Potenza Bracelet and Earrings 8 Material: gold metallic threads and beads 9 Daniela Amarii Tears of Black Gold 10 Material: metallic Madeira thread, synthetic thread Grignasco, coloured beads Pearls of the Moon Material: silver wire and pearls 11 Giuseppina Bonanni, Rossana Di Giacomo, Gloria De Sanctis Owls on Jupiter 12 Material: cotton thread, satin string and beads Marina Di Persio Golden Fantasies Material: golden wire 13 Giuseppina Bonanni The Wings of Life 14 Material: gold and silver wire, pearls Concetta Costantini Bracelet Material: silver wire thread 15 Stefania Paolelli The Milky Way 16 Material: gold thread, linen and synthetic Madeira, beads 17 Simona Iannini Tides of Neptune 18 Material: silk, metal, cotton, synthetic Belt of Rings Material: linen threads, mouse tail, synthetic thread, leather, wooden ring, wooden beads 19 Francesca Nanni, Gianna Porfirio and C oncetta C ostantini Fires of Mars 20 Material: synthetic threads and beads 21 Rita Fattore and Marina Di Persio Treasures of Venus 22 Material: gold and copper thread Rossana Di Giacomo Pendant with 4 Leaves Material: gold wire thread 23 G ermany Forum Alte Spitze GbR Anneliese Wienands, Marianne Stang Am Tomberg 18. D – 52531 Übach-Palenberg Our group, as the name says, deals with old lace, and research into its technique and history. We organize courses, exhibitions, lectures and study tours. As we have often participated in lace exhibitions we have rather attractive lace collections and we are preparing further exhibitions. At the moment we are occupied in organizing a trip to Denmark and southern 24 Sweden in 2013. For the following years we are planning to organize short trips to the Baltic States, Scotland and to the Auvergne (France) to see museums with lace. For some time now we have been doing research work on bobbin lace regions in Germany. We are working in an OIDFA work group dealing with lace in German folk costumes. On this subject we have already published four books. As Marianne Stang was on the executive committee of the Deutscher Klöppelverband e.V. (German bobbin lace association), first as vice president, then as president, for 12 years she was the main person responsible for the publications that she planned and wrote many articles for. Anneliese Wienands and Marianne Stang also publish books and catalogues of their own. They have written many articles about lace for other publications and have also given many lectures. As they have completed the education for lace teachers organized by the German bobbin lace association and have participated in courses on many lacemaking techniques, they both give a variety of lacemaking courses. Marianne Stang’s speciality is teaching people how to recognize the different kinds of old lace. The first international project we participated in was “Broken White” in which lacemakers from the three countries Belgium, Netherlands and Germany presented modern lace objects. Altogether we have been partners in four European projects dealing with lace together with partners from Italy, Spain, France, Belgium, Slovenia, Czech Republic and Estonia. Marianne Stang 25 Ann E. Wild Collar and Earrings 26 Material: Bockens Knyppelgarn 100% linen Nel 60/2, 300 beads 3mm Earrings Material: stainless steel wire 1,125 mm, in some cases beads (2 mm rocailles) 27 Beatrice Müller CollierMaterial: stainless steel wire 28 EarringsMaterial: stainless steel wire 29 Bettina Renn CollarMaterial: Bockens linen thread nr. 60/2, colour 5013, Marlit: colour: 867, 822, 850, 1003, 832, 1053, 1055 30 31 Kirsten Brinckmann Pendant, Ring and Brooch 32 Material: silver wire nr. 925 Button-hole-decorationsMaterial: silk 33 Kirsten Brinckmann Collier Material: silver wire nr. 925 with fresh water pearls 34 Jutta Hoinkhaus Collar Material: different linen threads 35 Gabriele Grohmann CollarMaterial: hanging pairs: old gold and silver thread, leader: FS 20 36 37 Christa Röhr Pendant 38 Material: golden thread, nr. 4 (from: [email protected]) M arianne Stang Buttons Material: golden thread, nr. 4 (from: [email protected]) 39 Anneliese Schröder Collier 40 Material: Madeira coloured thread and silver pendant Hermine Schwager Metal band as accessory Material: silver thread, nr. 4 (from: [email protected]) 41 C zech R epublic 42 Česká palička, s.r.o. – One Hundred Years of Czech M odern Lace The contribution of Czech designers to the field of handmade bobbin and needle lacemaking was enabled by an interplay of many and various favourable coincidences which accompanied Czech lace from the establishment of the first lace school in Prague in 1767, and culminated in the production of a number of textile artists in the last century. Following the Czechoslavic Ethnographic Exhibition in Prague in 1895, the interest in traditional handicrafts increased, and the battle for self-determination augmented this interest even more. Several new lace schools were set up and later became part of the Central Lace Course in Vienna. Lacemaking tuition was at a high level but was separate from the rest of the national culture. Thus the regional character of lacemaking in Bohemia was gradually wiped out. In the lacemaking courses, the lace was made chiefly according to the patterns designed by artists in Vienna. The Czech Johan Hrdlička was one of the most famous ones. The other outstanding personality of Czech lacemaking in the last century was Emilie MildeováPaličková who, in 1919, began to create her designs for needle and bobbin lace as tutor-designer at the State School Institute for Home Industry. The exceptionality of Emilie Paličková’s creations was quite evident right from the beginning; they are timeless even today. She gave lace yet another dimension, and she passed it on to her students at the Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design in Prague, where she taught for thirteen years from 1946. In the course of the last century, Czech lace flourished. Thanks to state support and the continuity of lacemaking education until the 1990s – specialized courses and secondary education, as well as a specialized Lace Studio at the Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design in Prague – this field of art has continued its development even without contacts with other lace centres. The work of many Czech artists in the field of handmade bobbin lace and needle lace has achieved 43 a large number of significant awards in international competitions; and their beautiful and rare lace creations have become part of the collections in many world museums and private collections. However, in the nineties of the last century, the conditions for lacemaking in the Czech Republic changed dramatically. Institutions like the Institute of Folk Art Production, Zádruha (workshops of art and craft production), Artistic Crafts, and the State School Institute for Home Industry as well as the Lace Studio at the Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design in Prague were all abolished. In 1994, Česká palička (The Czech Bobbin) was established with these aims: To follow up the work of Czech artists in the field of handmade bobbin and needle lace To support and develop lacemaking as a hobby in the Czech Republic To inform lacemakers about exhibitions, lace gatherings, meetings and courses To establish ties and contacts among individual lace areas in our country as well as abroad To promote Czech lace by providing support and help with exhibitions To organize lacemaking courses for beginners, as well as courses for advanced lacemakers specialized in different types of lacemaking techniques and focussed above all on the quality of the work. These aims were met and fulfilled in the years1997–1999 by taking part in the European Union project BLEN (Bobbin Lace European Network), and by creation of a virtual Lace Museum on the Internet www.blen.net. A unique chapter about Czech modern lace compiled from the works of outstanding Czech designers working in this sphere was obviously a part of the presentation. Apart from the Czech Republic there were partners from Spain, Portugal and Finland. In 1999, all activities of The Czech Bobbin were transferred to the Civil Association Krajka (Lace) that engaged itself in publishing an occasional professional lacemaking magazine Krajka (Lace), and with the help of its members, it undertook the preparation and organization of the World Lace Congress OIDFA (the International Organization of Bobbin and Needle Lace) held in 2004 in Prague and other places in 44 the Czech Republic. The Congress itself was a success, as were the other supporting exhibitions; but later, member activities gradually diminished, and Česká palička (The Czech Bobbin) came back to function again as a publisher of the magazine Krajka (Lace). It also continues to organize lacemaking courses for Czech and foreign lacemakers, still helps to prepare exhibitions in the Czech Republic and abroad; and last but not least, keeps in touch with many lace regions at home and abroad. At present, Česká palička (The Czech Bobbin) is participating in the European Union Grundtvig Project Lace 4 Fashion together with Estonia, France, Italy, and Germany. Jewellery and fashion accessories created by lacemakers within the frame of this project are shown in this catalogue. The two-year international collaboration has promoted new friendships, and for all participants also brought a lot of interesting experiences, not only while learning new and unique lacemaking techniques presented by each of the partners but also while starting to become acquainted with the culture of each participating country. Anna Halíková 45 Anna Halíková Collier 46 Material: knitting cotton ribbon Spaghetti, blackgold metal thread Collar Material: brown and gold Madeira, gold Rexana 47 Vilma Nasková Collar 48 Material: white linen thread TEX 52,5x3 Jana Lavičková Hat Material: linen thread TEX 33x2, cotton thread 20/3 49 Alina Jašková Little Mermaid 50 Material: linen thread TEX 33x4, silver metal thread, pearls Collar Material: linen thread TEX 33x4, Zlatka, DMC gold thread, DMC muline 51 Dana Mihulková Bracelet 52 Material: cotton thread Maya, cotton Perlé, wire, beads, fashion jewellery complement 53 Jaroslava Lánová Collar 54 Material: white linen thread TEX 33x2, beads Bronislava Bacílková Bracelet Material: 2 strands of muliné, fashion jewellery complement 55 Ludmila Holá Collar 56 Material: coton thread TEX 20x3 Lenka Malátová Collier Material: gold metal thread, corals 57 Jana Štefková Collier 58 Material: linen thread, Swarovski beads Collier Material: linen thread 59 I va Prošková Wedding Collar Material: linen thread TEX 40x3, silver Zlatka and wire, effective thread, textile flovers 60 61 E stonia MTÜ Rahvuslikud Pitsid MTÜ Rahvuslikud Pitsid (Non-governmental Association for Folk Lace) was founded in 2008 by Kristiina and Priit Halberg in order to study the very rich heritage of lace on Estonian folk costumes . The aim of the association is to create a comprehensive database of Estonian folk lace – information, photos, patterns, samples of lace; also to organize exhibitions, workshops and courses about folk lace and to find new ways of keeping the tradition of lacemaking alive. The association has organized exhibitions of Estonian traditional (folk costume) lace in Estonia and abroad (Germany, France, Slovenia and Croatia), also organized lace courses and workshops for folk costume makers and other people who are interested in bobbin lace. Kristiina Halberg has taught bobbin lacemaking at Tallinna Rahvaülikool (Tallinn People’s University) since 2004. In 2011 Kristiina and Priit Halberg were awarded Estonian Folk Art and Handicrafts Union’s folk art and handicraft Master’s certificates in textiles. 62 Kristiina and Priit Halberg They also belong to the International Bobbin and Needle Lace Organisation OIDFA. European Commission’s Lifelong Learning Programme’s Grundtvig Educational Partnership Programme’s project “Fashion Accessories and Jewellery in Lace” is the first international project in which MTÜ Rahvuslikud Pitsid participates. Tallinn 2013 Workshop in Tallinn 63 Angelika Nöps Green Poison 64 Material: linen, metallic, cotton, pearls Maris Raud Green-Blue Dream Material: moulinee, metallic, wire, pearls 65 Triina-Britt Preden A set „Blue fantasy“ 66 Material: linen and metallic 67 Kaire Ries Brooch 68 Material: metallic P enelope Frances Piip Spiced Coffee Collar Material: cotton, angora threads, plastic hearts, metallic bangles, wooden coffee stirrers 69 Kristiina Halberg Idyll 70 made by Aino Hunt Material: metallic Ljuba Keskküla Fimor Material: cotton and self made fimo pearls 71 Antonina Pavlova Forget-me-not 72 Material: cotton Spring Material: cotton 73 Epp T omingas River Pearls 74 Material: silver wire and natural pearls Luule Nurga White Rose Material: cotton 75 Kristiina Halberg Fire 76 Material: linen, feathers Angelika Nöps Fish Scales Material: different metal threads 77 France Hôtel de la dentelle Auvergne, and more particularly one of its four departments, The HauteLoire, became famous for its lacemaking several centuries ago. Ideally situated on the Way of St James (the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela), Le Puy en Velay soon became the capital of a “rustic” and cheap type of lace as opposed to the very fine and precious laces realized for kings, noble persons and aristocrats (Alençon, Duchesse). The pilgrimage route attracted pilgrims, peddlers, traders and retailers; its geographical situation, a city encircled by passes and very remote villages, assured a supply of cheap workers for this sedentary work, workers who were “happy” to find an extra source of revenue in this activity carried out by the women at times formerly “wasted” (in the fields when guarding animals, in the evenings). Lace was made with wool, linen, black silk (the short distance to Lyon allowing prompt supplies). The term “Cluny” (which is the original name of this lace made with tallies) even ended up being dethroned by the term “Le Puy lace”. 78 Brioude’s Cluny lacemakers proposed a new beginning, innovation based on excellence and knowhow. Brioude’s lace is designed, structured, the tallies in abundance, the plaits well tensioned. Taking the technique of our elders, we wished to emphasize the aesthetic qualities of this too often misjudged lace. To tighten up the lace, to refine the lines, and especially, to innovate ceaselessly, always to reach for perfection, for surprise: from its creation, that was the desire of the Hôtel de la dentelle. This approach attracted the attention of houses of Haute-Couture (Balmain); the constant innovation and the aesthetic research led in 1996 to the creation of a new technique, conceived and developed in our workshop: polychromatic Cluny de Brioude. With the modern design, the effects of colour create delight and surprise. The originality of Cluny de Brioude can be likened to a sculpture with many coloured touches, with the variety and the multitude of its tallies. The Hôtel de la dentelle, situated right in the centre of Brioude in a magnificent mansion of the XVth century, invites the visitor to discover its original, unique and surprising creations in its showrooms. It is also a workshop of design and realization and a workshop peopled by four lacemakers who have been awarded the medal “Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France” (one of the best workers in France). Every year, about 150 pupils (adults and children) come to learn or to perfect their technique and to enjoy bobbin lace. 79 Annick Maubert Arabesque – detail 80 Material: cotton, metallic thread, beads and feathers Arabesque Tourbillon Material: cotton, metallic thread, beads 81 Annick Maubert Pendant 82 Material: cotton, metallic thread Dolores Baron Pendant Material: silk 83 Sylvie Teissier Brooch 84 Material: silk, batik fabric Earrings Material: silk 85 Emmanuelle Girard Collier 86 Material: linen, beads Collier – detail Brooch Material: linen, fantasy thread, beads 87 Marie-Claude Espeche Collar 88 Material: silk, golden thread Bag Material: silk, linen, ribbon, beads, feathers 89 Claudine Chanteloube Collar „Aurore Boreale“ 90 Material: cotton, metallic, thread, beads Collier „Plumetis“ Material: silk, feathers 91 Caroline Panthier Sabot Collier „Heritage“ 92 Material: silk Collar „Fleur du Desert“ Material: silk, metallic thread 93 Odette Arpin Collier 94 Material: silk, metallic thread, beads 95 Contents Romantic History of Lace2 Italy – Region Abruzzo 4 Germany – Forum Alte Spitze GbR 24 Czech Republic – Česká palička, s.r.o. 42 Estonia – MTÜ Rahvuslikud Pitsid 62 France – Hôtel de la dentelle 78 96