The Accursed Mountains

Transcription

TRIP DOSSIER
ALBANIA
• A remote and challenging Balkan alpine adventure
• Magnificent, isolated Thethi National Park
• Albanian Highlander hospitality
Guided Group Departures
Walking Grade: C – Demanding
Trip Code: TALB
For dates and prices visit
www.walksworldwide.com
www.walksworldwide.co.uk
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Date of issue: 19 Nov 2015
ALBANIA
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Introduction
The Accursed Mountains in the north of Albania are both
truly spectacular and virtually impenetrable except for a
series of high passes that link the small number of
farmsteads and homes in the valleys below to the outside
world during the summer months. This is a truly special
European trekking adventure and well off the beaten
track. Ideal for the discerning traveller in search of new
cultural experiences and refreshingly different from
anywhere else in Europe, this committed trek leads you
into the heart of an unspoiled region where very few
tourists venture. From historic Shkodra you travel into
the Boga Valley and leave the 21st Century. We take a
passenger boat on the fjord-like Lake Koman, which
must surely rank as one of the world’s great lake
journeys to Valbona. The next few days we trek over the
challenging Valbona Pass, follow the shepherds trail
through the eastern Albanian Alps heading for the
magnificent Theth, an area of outstanding natural
beauty. You’ll trek through the heart of the Accursed
Mountains to the Peja Pass. An area surrounded by high
peaks and dominated by the immense vertical rock wall
of mesmerising Mt. Arapit (the Matterhorn of Albania),
traditional wooden-roofed farmsteads are scattered
throughout the valley and there’s even a working water
powered corn mill and “blood feud” tower too. The
following days trek leads you across the “Diagonal Pass”
leading down to the ‘Blue Eye Springs’. Your journey
through the fascinating north of Albania is completed by
a drive to Tirana, the trendy capital city.
Your Holiday
Life on trek
You’ll be walking between 5-8 hours each day in the
most dramatic mountain ranges of the remote, far north
of Albania and close to the border with Montenegro.
During the walking day you will carry only your usual
daypack. Main baggage will be transported either by
vehicle or mule. Breakfasts and dinners will usually be
taken at your overnight accommodation. Lunches will
usually be picnic style, which will you will carry with you
in your daypack and picnic halts will usually be in a
suitable, scenic location. It’s desirable to make early
morning to starts to avoid ascending in the heat of the
day.
Walking conditions
You’ll be mostly walking on mountain trails with varying
conditions underfoot. Each day you will be walking
between 5-9 hours. The walks are in challenging
mountainous terrain and involve both sustained ascent
and descent, which at times will be steep. A couple of
mountain streams along the way will require fording.
Encountering late lying snow in shaded gullies and on
higher slopes is always possible. You should ensure you
are comfortable walking at this level of grading and are
physically fit and prepared for the trip. For details of
each walk please see the itinerary later in this trip
dossier.
This is definitely not a trip for beginners to mountain
walking. You need to have a good level of fitness and
stamina. A full explanation of the trip grading can be
found online at www.walksworldwide.com.
Detailed itinerary
Day 1 Rendezvous at Tirana Airport and
transfer to Shkodra
Rendezvous at Tirana International Airport arrivals hall
in the morning (See How to join and depart this trip
section later in this trip dossier).
After arriving at your overnight accommodation a short
visit may be paid to the ruins of Rozafa Castle, which is
perched strategically on top of a hill just outside of
Shkodra. From the castle there are fine views across the
large lake here, as well as across Shkodra city and to the
mountains beyond. After a traditional Albanian dinner
your guide may take you on a stroll around laid-back
streets of Shkodra and through the pedestrianised area
where the locals enjoy a bit of promenading. There will
be a pre-trip briefing at 2000 hrs. Hotel (dinner)
Day 2 Boat over Lake Koman and travel to
Valbona
Although it probably doesn’t look too far on a map, it will
take half of the day to reach the valley of Valbona. So,
we must leave early in the morning to catch the ferryboat
service from the Koman Docks which leaves around
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0900hrs. The journey along Lake Koman itself is
absolutely stunning though. The boat trip takes around 2
and a half hours, and as Lake Koman is narrow and
surrounded by steep sided mountains, the journey is akin
to travelling through a spectacular fjord like canyon. The
boat itself is a bit basic, as it’s primarily a necessary
service link for the local people, who may look a bit
bemused when a group of trekkers get on.
A local mini-bus will drive us to Valbona, where we will
accommodate in a local guesthouse for two nights. On
the way we will stop to have lunch in a rustic traditional
restaurant.
Just before reaching the house, the ruins of a former
communist hotel in the middle of the valley, stand in stark
contrast to this beautiful location, but a reminder all the
same of the regime in Albania’s recent history. In the
afternoon we will stretch our legs on a hike through
woods till the meadows of Grykat e Hapta – enjoying the
stunning views of the Valbona’s jagged peaks, for than
returning down to the valley bottom and prepare for
dinner and perhaps indulge in some homemade raki (a
fiery plum or grape brandy).
Dependent upon our progress and the weather we may
head a little higher to a remote pass at 2000m*(optional)
which forms the border with Montenegro, allowing you to
be in two countries at once, and gaze at amazing
mountain landscape. The jagged peaks above us are
part of the Dinaric Alps, a mountain chain that stretches
through Albania, Montenegro, Serbia, Kosovo, Bosnia
and Herzegovina and Croatia becoming the famed Julian
Alps at their northernmost point in Slovenia.
We’ll then descend back to our Guest House in Valbona.
As we cross the river valley floor (and although we’ll have
seen a few of these before), the sight of the disused
machine gun bunkers strewn across the river banks, as
well as those that have since collapsed makes for a
rather curious scene against the stunning backdrop of
the peaks that soar above. There were in fact almost
500,000 of these machine gun concrete bunkers
throughout Albania at one time to let the outside world
know that Albania was a “fortress”.
Walking duration: 5-7* hours
Option 1. Walking distance in kms = 10.5Km
Walking duration: 3-4 hours
Walking duration in hours = 5-6hrs
Walking distance in kms = 7,85Km
Ascent and descent in metres = 763m / -763m
Min/Max elevation = 956m - 1678m
Min/Max elevation = 965m / 1364m
Option 2. Walking distance in kms = 13.8Km
Village Guesthouse (breakfast, lunch and dinner)
Walking duration in hours = 7-8hrs
Day 3 Shepherds trail through the eastern
Albanian Alps
The trek into the wild and almost inaccessible mountains
of northern Albania begins. We walk from Valbona and
head across the broad valley floor to then ascend
steadily to the remote, authentically traditional hamlet of
Kukaj, which consists of around 4 homes (1150m).
We’ll then follow a shepherd’s trail high up and into the
very remote landscapes of Albania’s eastern Alps. It’s a
beautiful walk as the trail winds its way up through wild
flower meadow and woodland, with wonderful views
across to the mountains on the opposite side of the
Valbona Valley.
Ascending up to the 1600m mark, we stop at a
shepherd’s stone built summer hut for a picnic lunch.
*if pax hike to the 2000m optional pass – this would be
the highest point of the trip.
Day 4 Across the Valbona Pass to Thethi
Leaving Valbona behind, we must first load our main
baggage onto mules as we are heading over the Valbona
Pass (Qafe e Valbonës). The pass lies at 1840m and will
be one of the highlights of our trek and a classic of the
Albanian Alps. As we start from about 900m of elevation,
we have an ascent of almost 1000m to reach the pass
itself. After the rather flat approach section to Rrogam –
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last houses of the valley, we’ll be following a rough and
rocky path that later opens into a large glacier bowl
continuing into a winding narrow trail that leads to the
Valbona Pass. The trail is the only direct connection to
the Thethi valley where we are heading. From the pass
we can look forward to fantastic views of the Radohima
Mountains and once again impressive views on the
Jezercë massive. Now deep in the Alps of Albania and
very high up, we have a long descent as the trail initially
traverses its way across a steeply angled scree slope
before winding its way down meadows and beautiful
beech forest to reach the mountainside to the village of
Thethi (800m), perhaps northern Albania’s most famous
and one of the most characteristic and traditional villages
of the region. With picturesque valleys of beech and pine,
mountain streams and waterfalls, it is acknowledged that
Thethi provided the inspiration for Edith Durham’s “High
Albania”.
Kosovo used by the locals and their mules. From the
pass there are fine views across the entire Thethi valley
as well as to the peaks that lie within Montenegro. We’ll
take a picnic lunch at a shepherds summer pasture
looking over to the steep slopes of Albania’s second
peak, Jezercë (2690m). We’ll spend as much time as
possible at this scenic location for further exploration
before descending back to Thethi. For those not wishing
to partake in today’s walk and perhaps rest their legs,
there’s the option of doing some local exploration in
Thethi by yourself or in the company of one of the locals
(for a small fee and arranged in advance with your main
trip guide).
Walking distance in kms = 14.8Km
Walking duration: 8 hours.
Walking distance in kms = 14Km
Day 6 A short, easy trek to Nderlysa through
Thethi’s attractions
Min/Max elevation = 800m / 1840m
Day 5 Into the heart of the Accursed
Mountains to the Peja Pass
We’ll remain in the Thethi National Park and follow a trail
to make a challenging ascent to the Peja Pass (1730m).
This brings us some of the best views of The Accursed
Mountains of Albania along a trade route to Peja in
Kosovo. From Thethi the trail rises steadily as we head
up into the valley passing scattered homesteads and
farmland along the way. Ahead of us, and on both sides
are impressive, jagged peaks. Soon, the most
impressive (but not the highest) Mt. Arapit comes into
view. This is Albania’s “Matterhorn”, with a sheer rock
wall that rises almost 1000m vertically to its summit from
the valley floor. As we get closer to the head of the valley
it seems impossible that there would be a trail beyond
the rock walls that lie ahead. However, the trail now
begins to rise as you head up through pine forests and
emerges above the tree line as it then begins to climb
sharply away from the valley floor. The trail you are
following is in actual fact, an old trade route to Peja in
Today is a relatively straightforward and moderate trek
to the hamlet of Nderlysa (550m), with no real ascent and
descent of any great note, but reach in attractions
nevertheless. Gradients are not sustained while
baggage will be transferred by local vehicle.
On the way we’ll pass the stone build church of Thethi,
covered in the traditional wooden plank roof, for than
making a visit to the “Blood Feud Tower”, now restored
and one of a few only remaining examples of a lock-in
tower used by men for protection from blood feuds.
We will continue further on trial to reach the refreshing
waterfall of Thethi, and then descend to ancient terraces
build by the mysterious inhabitants of the valley in the
late Bronze Age. Nearby the Grunasi Canyon can be
admired from the wooden bridge of Grela with the foamy
rapids of Shala River thundering below.
The hike will continue on the side of river Shala, until
reaching Nderlysa where we will stay for the last night in
the Alps.
The afternoon is free to relax in the tranquil setting of
Nderlysa at your own leisure, why not have a swim in
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the turquoise pools of Kaprea creek nearby – usually the
weather is warm enough.
Today’s easy pace will be perfect to prepare for the final
ascent to Thore Pass tomorrow.
Walking duration: 7 hours
Walking distance in kms = 7.3Km
Transfer to Tirana in 4hours / 159Km
Walking distance in kms = 8Km
Hotel (breakfast and lunch)
Day 8 Depart Tirana
Day 7 Trek from Nderlysa to the Diagonal Pass
We leave Nderlysa for a long and steady ascent to the
stunning Diagonal Pass. The trail climbs first beside the
Kaprea creek canyon till we reach the beautiful pool
known as the ‘Blue Eye’. From here a winding path
through forest will lead to open meadows back-grounded
by the mighty views of the Biga e Gimajve massive, until
reaching the pass.
Our trek into the Alps of Albania and exploration of the
Accursed Mountains is now complete, time for a toast
and picnic at the wooden chalet bar nearby. Afterwards
we start the transfer descending through the beautiful
valley of Boga until reaching the Shkodra plain where we
join the highway that in a couple of hours will lead to the
capital.
Tirana is fast becoming one of the most dynamic cities in
the Balkans and a bit of a “party town” too. The group
hotel in Tirana is centrally located and just a few minutes’
walk from Skanderbeg Square. We’ve intentionally not
included dinner in the trip price for this evening in order
that each individual group member can choose what they
would like to eat according to their tastes and budget.
Tirana itself has many reasonably priced restaurants and
pizzerias to choose from. Whilst it is not mandatory to
dine together this evening as a group, we wholeheartedly
recommend that you do so and your guide will be
delighted to recommend somewhere suitable for the
group to dine. Your guide will also be equally delighted if
you invite him along too, and it’s a nice touch if the group
were to take care of the guides dining costs tonight
equally amongst each other. There are a multitude of late
night bars in Tirana too, including some very trendy ones
in the area known as “The Block”, which is where the elite
of Hoxha’s regime once lived and now the haunt of the
“beautiful people” of Tirana wishing to see and be seen.
Depart Tirana at your leisure.
(breakfast)
Practical Information
How to join and depart this trip
The joining point for this trip is Tirana International Airport
arrivals hall on day 1 of the Trip Itinerary above. This
transfer is included because your first night in Shkodra is
95km from Tirana. If you are unable to arrive at this time,
our consultants can arrange a transfer for you on request
– please contact us for prices. Please ensure you attend
the pre-trip briefing at 2000 hrs (time subject to change)
on day 1.
The departure point for this trip is our group hotel in
Tirana, and you can plan your departure anytime on day
8 of the trip itinerary. Please note your departure airport
transfer is not included as group members may be
departing at very different times. If you prefer, our
consultants can arrange a departure transfer for you on
request - please contact us for prices. Alternatively, a
licensed, metered taxi or local, public transport may be
arranged from the hotel to take you to the airport.
Flight Inclusive
We recommend that you book this trip as a 'Flight
Inclusive' package. Booking your international flights
through Walks Worldwide guarantees you peace of mind
and provides 100% financial protection under our CAA
ATOL licence. What's more, if you book your flights with
us as well as your ground arrangements, we will manage
these flight arrangements both before and during your
trip. As an ATOL Licence holder, we are able to secure
and arrange competitively-priced airfares with most major
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airlines from the UK (as displayed on our website), as well
as the option of regional departures too.
Land Only
If you would prefer to arrange your own international
travel you can book this trip as a 'Land Only' package,
where the price does not include international flights.
Please note that if you are booking your own flights there
are certain risks you should be aware of. Many airline
tickets purchased directly are non-refundable and often
do not provide you with any financial protection (unlike
booking your flights with ourselves where you would be
100% protected under our CAA ATOL licence). For this
reason we strongly advise that you check the rules of any
flight booking you make, and check the limitations under
any insurance policy you may have in relation to
cancellation or date changes. We cannot be held liable
for any losses incurred or consequences of any flight
bookings or related travel arrangements you have made
yourself, such as if your international flights were
delayed or cancelled and you could not join or depart
your holiday on time. If you do decide to book Land Only,
we strongly advise that you do not book international
flights or make other travel arrangements (especially if
there are financial penalties for cancellation or change)
until your chosen holiday is guaranteed to run. Please
also ensure when making your own international travel
arrangements that they enable you to join and depart this
trip in accordance with the criteria specified in the How
to join and depart this trip section of this Trip Dossier.
Local transport
The group airport transfer to Shkodra and then to Boga
the following day is by private mini-bus, which will only
then meet the group again on day 7 at the arrival point of
the Koman ferry boat for the transfer to Tirana. A small,
local mini-bus will transport the group on day 7 from
Dunisha to Fierze. At Fierze the group will take the public
ferry boat service for the journey along Lake Koman.
Accommodation
Accommodation will be reserved for you on a twin share
basis unless you have already requested a single room
for the two nights spent in hotels (Shkodra and Tirana).
Hotel rooms on these two nights are en-suite.
However, surely one of the major highlights and most
memorable aspects of this adventure is staying with real
Albanian Highlander families in their remote and isolated
village guesthouses. These are essentially large,
traditional farmhouses that have been part-converted to
accommodate small groups of trekkers and intrepid
travellers. Rooms are simple yet comfortable and vary in
configuration from place to place, with up to 6 beds per
room. Bed linen and blankets are provided, as are
towels. Beds will be allocated at each overnight halt upon
arrival, according to availability and configuration
although usually rooms will be on a same gender basis.
The farmhouses usually have two modern bathrooms
(thanks to grant aid), with showers, wash-hand basins
and western European style toilets. All have some form
of electricity (usually from a localised H.E.P. source)
most of the time with variable output. The
accommodations used are simple and comfortable, they
are selected for their location and friendly service and
some are better than others. However, please remember
the accommodation is not up to the same standards as
we are accustomed to in the UK. Tourism is new in
Albania and as a result the guesthouses will be a little
faded, and in need of investment. There are often are
power cuts and the odd plumbing problem in Albania.
Travellers should remember tourism is still in a
development phase and conditions are improving.
Food
Meals included in the Land Only trip price are indicated
in the trip itinerary. Albanian food has its influences in
Greek, Turkish and Italian styles. In the north the
emphasis will be on locally farmed and grown, fresh
produce that will be in season. Expect lots of home-made
bread, sheep cheese, other dairy specialities, freshly
caught trout, lamb meat, ham, tomatoes, cucumbers,
potatoes and other fresh vegetables, pickles, bean
soups and freshly picked salads from field to plate!
Coffee is invariably Turkish style, as well as copious
amounts of Chai (a herbal mountain tea). Most of the
Farmhouses have a limited amount of beer and soft
drinks available for purchase. It’s a good idea to bring
along some trail snacks (cereal bars, chocolate) with you
from the UK. Albania produces some rather decent wine
and of course there’s the home-brewed hooch called
raki. Vegetarians will certainly not starve in northern
Albania, vegetables, bread, cheese and fruit are more
prevalent then meat. Other special dietary requirements
whilst in the north of Albania may not be catered for. All
the farmhouses have a readily available supply of fresh,
mountain filtered water that is safe for drinking.
Therefore we recommend clients with a particular dietary
requirement should take extra snacks with them. We do
recommend that you pack extra snacks for the trek,
cereal bars and clif energy bars.
Climate
It is of course impossible to predict the precise weather
conditions you will encounter during the course of your
holiday. However, we do schedule our holidays to
coincide with what should be the most suitable weather
periods for walking. For this particular trip we can
hopefully expect daytime temperatures between 18ºC25ºC+ at lower altitudes. Mountains are notorious for
creating their own, localised weather conditions, so you
should always be prepared for inclement weather
conditions. Thunderstorms can occur in the mountains,
although these are usually brief with heavy downpours.
For climate statistics visit www.worldweather.org
Roughly speaking temperatures decrease by approx.
1ºC for every 200 metre increase in altitude. By early
May the high passes are usually passable, although we
may encounter patches of late lying snow in sheltered
gullies and on the passes themselves at any time.
Altitude
The altitudes on this trip are reasonably moderate and
you should not anticipate any problems.
Baggage
Please make sure that your baggage is clearly marked
with your name, inside as well as outside, in case the
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labels get detached. On the trekking days your main
baggage will be transported mostly by mules with
probably just one day where baggage will be transferred
by local transport. SUITCASES MUST NOT BE USED
for your main baggage and will be refused porterage.
Please ensure your main baggage is packed in either a
soft holdall style kitbag, or a large, unframed rucksack.
Please limit the weight of your main baggage to 12kg.
Contact us if you are unsure about the suitability of your
main baggage.
Language
Vaccinations & health
It is customary to give your Guide a tip if you have
received good service. The amount is entirely at your
discretion, although an amount of £15 (given to your
guide in Albanian currency would be approx 2500 Lek) is
reasonable. Muleeters and drivers will welcome a small
tip, and we recommend 200 Lek (about £2) per group
member is also reasonable.
We always recommend visiting your doctor and dentist
for a check-up before travelling. Your doctor will also
have access to the most up to date information on
vaccinations and medical precautions for the country you
are about to visit. In general, no vaccinations are
necessary for Albania. A useful travel health online
resource is www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk
Please make sure that you obtain form EHIC either
online www.dh.gov.uk or from your local post office – you
will need to produce this if you have to see a doctor.
First Aid
You should always carry your own small, personal first
aid kit. This should consist of the following: A general
anti-biotic, throat lozenges, painkillers, plasters (bandaids), blister treatment, insect repellent (DEET),
rehydration salts, antiseptic cream, diarrhoea treatment
(e.g. Imodium).
Security
Whilst the vast majority of travellers never experience
anything untoward it is worth taking precautions
particularly in urban areas. You should take sensible
precautions in crowded areas such as street markets
and airports, where pick-pocketing is common, and keep
clear of any street disturbances. Don’t wear jewellery, or
leave your bags unattended, keep large amounts of
money, cameras and mobile phones out of sight when
walking in town centres, and avoid walking in city centres
after dark. Keep copies of important documents,
including passports, in a separate place to the
documents themselves, together with details of credit
cards. Leave copies at home with a friend too. Safeguard
valuables, important documents and cash and deposit
them in hotel safes, where practicable.
Currency
The Albanian currency is the Lek. Please refer to
www.xe.com for up to date rates. You can change your
travel money upon arrival at Tirana International Airport,
or at an ATM in Shkodra. We would suggest that you
change) the majority of your spending money upon
arrival, or in Shkodra (via an ATM) at the very latest.
There are no exchange facilities beyond Shkodra until
you arrive in Tirana. As all meals are included during the
trekking element, you shouldn’t need to carry a great
deal of money with you as there isn’t a great deal to
spend it on other than drinks and for tips. Please note
that if you intend to use an ATM in Albania you should
ensure it is linked to the international cirrus system and
inform your card issuer that you are travelling to Albania.
In Albania the language is Albanian. Although we’re
accompanied by an English-speaking guide, we very
much recommend you take along a phrase book and
also try to learn some simple Albanian phrases and
greetings. The local people (most of whom speak no
English) will of course especially appreciate any attempt
to speak their language and is all part of the fun.
Tipping
Maps
Huber Verlag publish a map entitled “Thethi and
Kelmend” ISBN number: 9783940686183 on a 1:50,000
scale which covers the trekking area. This can usually be
obtained by special order through specialist map
suppliers like the Map Shop www.themapshop.co.uk and
Stanfords www.stanfords.co.uk
We highly recommend you purchase the Bradt Guide to
Albania, which provides excellent all round information
on the country.
We recommend Stanfords at 12-14 Long Acre, London
WC2E 9LP (Tel: 0207 836 1321) www.stanfords.co.uk.
Travel Insurance
It is a condition of booking any of our holidays that you
have comprehensive travel insurance. It is your
responsibility to ensure you are covered for medical and
personal accident risks for the part of the world you
intend to travel and the activities involved. This cover
should include repatriation costs, air ambulance and
helicopter rescue. It is also advisable to take out
cancellation insurance as all deposits paid are nonrefundable.
You may arrange either single-trip or annual multi-trip
travel insurance through Walks Worldwide. Please call
us on 01962 737565 for a quotation.
Passports & Visas
British passport holders (and other EU passport holders)
do not require a visa to visit Albania for stays up to three
months (please ensure your passport has at least 6
months validity).
You can obtain the latest visa information, as well as
book your visa either by contacting your reservation
consultant, or by following the link below to our
designated visa service:
http://www.walksworldwide.com/information/visa.html
Staff on your trip
An English-speaking Albanian Mountain guide will
accompany the group. On other occasions you will have
muleteers and a driver as indicated in the detailed daily
description.
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Budgeting for your trip
Please refer to the detailed itinerary for information on
what is included in this trip. You will need to budget for
meals and drinks not included in the holiday, any optional
sightseeing, souvenirs and items of a personal nature
such as laundry.
Important Note
Due to the specialist nature of our holidays, day to day
itineraries should be taken as a guide only, and as
statements of intent and not contractual obligations. We
regularly update our trip dossiers to take into account
changes to trekking routes, accommodation, local
transport etc. Such changes are a factor of this type of
holiday and when made are out of necessity. Other
factors such as adverse weather, unforeseen
circumstances and other matters entirely out of our
control etc can also lead to enforced changes during the
course of the holiday. It is not possible to guarantee that
any of our holidays will operate exactly as per the
anticipated itinerary. The most current trip dossier will be
made available on our website. We will also send you the
most up to date trip dossier with your “Final Joining
Instructions” approx. 2 weeks before departure and you
should carefully check this for any changes that may
affect your plans. Before booking you should read our
“Types of Trip” and “Essential and Useful information”
sections on www.walksworldwide.com including our
‘Important Warning’.
Clothing & Equipment
Please check our website for the most up to date
information regarding packing for your trip. The
information we provide is our suggested guide to help
you with your packing based upon our many years of
travelling. Using your own judgment for packing is of
course important, especially with regard to casual
clothing etc. but please do not hesitate to contact us if
you have any questions about packing for your trip.
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The Accursed Mountains

Transcription

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