Slowing Things Down at La Petraia
Transcription
Slowing Things Down at La Petraia
10/4/06 4:50 PM Page 74 Piano, Piano, Pieno Slowing Things Down at La Petraia by Deborah Verginella PHOTO CREDIT: Michael Grant Fall A mid the frenzy of watching my first Iron Chef America episode, I stared in wonder as my culinary idol, Susur Lee, inelegantly lunged at slabs of bacon (the secret ingredient) unveiled house-of-horrors style in a mist of dry ice.Yes, the battle in kitchen stadium would be intense, as Canada’s star chef (turned gladiator), would face off against American Iron Chef and marketing machine Bobby Flay. Lee, his lustrous ponytail propelling him forward, stacked as many cuts of the meat onto his arms as he could handle.Time was, after all, of the essence.These fare warriors had only one hour to create five courses featuring the secret ingredient. A mere 60 minutes to achieve gastronomical nirvana. At the other end of the culinary universe, far from the lights of the L.A. television studios, there is Susan McKenna Grant—a patron of a movement that is bravely competing with what has become a fast and furious food industry. 10/4/06 4:53 PM Page 75 f o o d Surrounded by the breathtaking landscapes and delicacies of La Petraia, why would you want to rush? Called Slow Food, this movement, founded in 1986, promotes the culture of food and wine, and actively defends food and biodiversity worldwide. Among the many initiatives of the movement is the Ark of Taste—an attempt to rediscover and catalogue forgotten flavors and rescue those gastronomic products threatened by industrial standardization, hygiene laws, large-scale distribution and environmental damage. Ark products range from the American Navajo-Churro sheep (from the last indigenous Irish cattle breed, the Kerry), to a unique variety of Greek fava beans (grown only on the island of Santorini), to Canada’s own herring spawn on kelp (a seafood delicacy that has been harvested by B.C. First Nations people for centuries). All are endangered products that have real commercial potential. PHOTO CREDIT: Michael Grant Fall McKenna Grant is one of Slow Food’s and the Ark’s biggest supporters. At La Petraia—the 165-acre farm she owns and runs near Radda in Chianti, Tuscany’s oldest wine region—she cultivates the ingredients she uses to cook for guests staying at this agriturismo attraction. Her first cookbook—Piano, Piano, Pieno:Authentic Food from a Tuscan Farm—chronicles the journey of transforming this ancient abandoned property into a paradise of rare breed livestock and organically grown vegetables, including olives and chestnuts. McKenna Grant was born in Wyoming, Ontario, a farming community near Sarnia. In 1983 she started Alias Research (a computer graphics software development company) in Toronto with three other partners.When the company went public, Susan eventually left and began her journey with food, spending several years travelling Europe and studying cooking and baking at some of the world’s finest culinary schools including the Cordon Bleu and École Lenotre. Cheese Gnocchi—the ultimate in comfort food Those years abroad led to a search for a property in Italy, looking at land in Liguria, then Tuscany. It was there that she and her husband Michael, who contributes all the photographs in the cookbook, found La Petraia. As Grant writes in her book’s preface, “We decided we wanted her and she agreed to have us, which is how I began a new adventure as an imprenditrice agricola—in other words, a farmer.” | Fall 2006 75 McKenna Grant also describes the skepticism of the Italians around her who thought she came Fall 10/4/06 4:55 PM Page 76 More than many other cookbooks, McKenna Grant’s seems foreign to North American sensibilities in most respects. Even the title Piano, Piano, Pieno (or “Slowly, Slowly, Full”) is a phrase few Americans or Canadians seem to associate with food these days. The first chapter is devoted to bread and is a call to the spiritual “elementalness” of making it at home. For Grant, making bread is “working with a living thing. Creating life to sustain life.”A far cry from the millions of carb-conscious people in Canada and the US that cringe at the thought of merely eating bread, let alone actually baking it themselves. Similarly, one of the full-page colour photographs depicts a hunting party with the dead carcasses of nine wild boars in the foreground—a particularly bold sight for a North American audience whose relationship with meat usually begins with cellophane. Susan McKenna Grant wants us to slow down and enjoy food the way it was intended: simply, organically and in the company of good friends to Italy “for love, to marry an Italian,” to retire, or to “just play at [living here], being one of the throngs of stranieri who own holiday homes in Tuscany.” A so-called “reverse-immigrant,” her case puzzled government officials and it took her two years to obtain the necessary visa to live on her farm as a self-employed person. 76 And it is this farm, this land that enraptures her: what it gives and what one can create from it. “I wanted to get close to the source of the food. I love the country and I love the farming life.” She talks about her inspiration: her mother, a wonderful cook and baker; her father, a hunter/gatherer. Similarly, it is not the starred chefs that inspire her, although she graciously cites her admiration for them, but the simple osterie and their cooks whose dishes have stories attached to them, whose recipes are passed on from one generation to the next, and who most often include the most important ingredient in any dish: love. McKenna Grant described her experience watching the first butchering of the rare breed of boar she raises, the Cinta Senese. In the end it was her conviction that in “giving the best to the animals, they give that back,” a statement utterly lacking in New Age feeling, that gave a coherence to the cookbook as a whole, and unveiled the absolute focus of her character. It is impossible to think of Susan watching, let alone participating in something like Iron Chef.The philosophy of simple, seasonal and local, her culinary advice for us all, really defines her. She lives her surroundings. It seems almost an impossible mission to try and instill McKenna Grant’s take on food in North American culture. More and more, slowness is an enemy to be defeated in our society. Like Iron Chefs we too are all trying to race against the clock. Perhaps all this speed disconnects us from our world. But reading Piano, Piano, Pieno and talking to its author has reminded me of an old saying of my grandmother’s: Chi va piano, va sano e va lontano. If you go slowly, you will go far and get there safe and sound. For over forty years, Siena Foods has been producing deli meats of the highest quality using a unique combination of Old World Traditions and New World Technology. The end result is a tradition of exceptional taste and uncompromising standards. www.sienafoods.com | Fall 2006 Fall 10/4/06 4:56 PM Page 77 To slow down in your own kitchen try this recipe from Piano, Piano, Pieno. Sfogliata di Mele e Frangipane con la Salsa di Miele al Profumo di Lavanda Apple and Frangipane Tart with a Lavender-scented Honey Sauce f o Serves 4 to 6 For the pastry o 250 g (9 oz) puff pastry For the frangipane 56 g (2 oz) (scant 1/3 cup) blanched almonds 56 g (2 oz) (3 tbsp) liquid honey 56 g (2 oz) (1/2 stick) butter 1 egg, beaten 1 tbsp all-purpose flour d For the honey sauce 1/3 cup liquid honey 1/3 cup heavy cream 1 tbsp butter For the apple filling 3 to 4 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored and sliced very thinly (use a mandoline if you have one) To finish 1/2 cup apricot jam heated with 2 tbsp water, strained Icing sugar Several sprigs of fresh lavender For the pastry Roll the puff pastry out into a fairly thin rectangle about 10 by 12 inches and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cut a 1/2 inch strip off each side of the rectangle and place each strip on the edge it was cut from to form a border. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic and refrigerate it until you are ready to bake. For the frangipane Process all of the frangipane ingredients in your food processor until you have a smooth paste. The frangipane can be made ahead and refrigerated overnight or frozen for up to a month. For the honey sauce Place the honey in a small saucepan with a tablespoon of water and bring to a rolling boil. Remove from the heat and add the cream and butter. Return to low heat and stir to combine. The honey sauce can be made the morning of the day you plan to serve the dessert. The final assembly Remove the puff pastry from the fridge and spread the frangipane evenly over the dough. Lay the apple slices, overlapping them quite thickly, in two or three rows on the top of the frangipane. Bake for 40 minutes, until the pastry is golden. Let cool on a rack for 5 to 10 minutes before painting the apples with the strained apricot jam. When completely cool, use a fine sieve to sprinkle icing sugar over the tart. To serve Reheat the honey sauce. Cut the tart into thin slices and arrange on your serving plates. Put a lavender sprig on top of each slice and drizzle the hot honey sauce in a zigzag pattern over top. Sieve a light veil of icing sugar over the plate, if desired, and serve. “Apple and Frangipane Tart with Lavender-scented Honey Sauce” taken from Piano, Piano, Pieno. Published by HarperCollinsPublishersLtd. Copyright © 2006 Susan McKenna Grant. All rights reserved. Preheat the oven to 350°F / 175°C. 77 | Fall 2006