Grooming Guidelines Platinum Package

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IGA
GUIDELINES
Soft Coated Terrier
Kerry Blue
Illustration by Lindsey Dicken
Guidelines
by Deana Mazurkiewicz & Lindsey Dicken
© 2016 Intellectual Groomers Association, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
GROOMING GUIDELINES FOR THE KERRY BLUE TERRIER
Prep work should include
-
clipped paw pads
clean ears, plucking optional
clipped and filed toenails
freshly shampooed and dried coat, paying close attention to flews, ears and eye corner area
thoroughly brushed and combed, free of tangles and matts
clipped sanitary, including the rectum, and the wide strip between the pin bones extending
down to the inner thigh muscles.
- the coat may be blown out straight or air dried natural, however you will be expected to
marcel the coat prior to completion.
General Appearance
The Kerry Blue Terrier should be a balanced, well-tailored dog with a classic terrier profile.
Everything about the dog should give the impression of power and strength without coarseness.
Clipper Work
Clipper work is generally done with a 10 reverse, starting on the cheeks from ear corner to eye
corner, then from the eye corner down to the corner of the mouth. The lower jaw should be
clipped up slightly forward of the flew, making sure the lip line is clipped neatly, stretching the lip
back to expose any stray hair. The throat should be clipped in V or U shape, ending
approximately 2-3 finger widths above the breastbone on average.
Ears should be clipped using a 10 reverse or a 40 with the grain, making sure the inside is clean
and tidy and free of hair, and the edges are sharp and neat.
Body
The body is a classic terrier pattern, with no discernible lines, everything is well blended. The
body is scissored fairly tight to accentuate musculature and show the dog’s build. A small fringe
is left on the undercarriage to accentuate depth of chest, and the underline is straight, angling
up into the tuck up without being poodley. The top line is flat, flowing seamlessly into a well
arched neck. Ribcage should be trimmed to show a well sprung rib, never slab sided. Chest is
trimmed very tight, bordering on flat, with just a hint of chest to show power. The rear is trimmed
tight to show a well-defined, angulated rear.
Legs
The forelegs are cylindrical, sometimes referred to as stovepipes or columns. They should drop
straight down from the elbow when viewed from the front. The lines on the inside and outside
should be parallel, with no flared bottoms or pinched feet, but of uniform size throughout.
The rear legs should look like a slight A frame when viewed from the rear, with the inside of the
hocks trimmed tight. Like the front legs, the lines on the outside and inside should be parallel to
each other, with no bell bottoms. From the side, the leg should be trimmed to reflect the shape
of the dog’s actual bone structure, showing a knee and a slight foot. The rear of the leg is
trimmed very close to the bend in the leg, flaring out slightly to the hock. The hock should be
trimmed perpendicular to the ground and not overly exaggerated. The foot should be trimmed
fairly close to make the dog appear up on his toes.
Tail
The tail is carrot shaped, with the backside being clipped closely with a 10 blade. The sides of
the tail are trimmed tight, with the bulk of the hair being on the front side of the tail. The tip is
tapered, gradually getting longer as it nears the body. If necessary, a small amount of fill hair
may be left in the case of dogs with low tail sets, to make the tail flow seamlessly into the body.
Head
The top of the head is trimmed very closely showing the flat planes of the skull, flowing
seamlessly into the top of the neck. The fall starts at the brow bones, flowing down over the face
past the nose. The sides of the face are trimmed close with thinning shears, blending the area
under the eyes into the clipper work. The face should appear brick shaped when viewed from
the front, an hourglass shape is incorrect. The sides of the beard can be thinned to encourage
the face to fall forward and be streamlined. The hair over the eye corner is trimmed to expose
the eye from the side, but eyes should not be visible from the front. Beard is left natural, with
minimal tidying only when needed.
Neck
The neck ties the head into the body. The neck is well arched and stallionesque. The top of the
neck should be tight, coming off the skull, and gradually lengthening as it reaches the withers.
The sides of the neck are trimmed very close to avoid a coarse look.
GROOMING GUIDELINES FOR THE SOFT COATED WHEATEN TERRIER
Prep work should include
-
clipped paw pads
freshly shampooed and dried coat, paying close attention to flews, ears and eye corner area
clipped sanitary, may or may not opt to clip the groin
the coat may be blown out straight or air dried natural, however you will be expected to return
the natural wave to the coat prior to completion
General Appearance
The Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium sized, square terrier. The coat is his crowning
glory, being soft and gently wavy. Nothing is exaggerated or overdone, and the dog should give
the impression of being alert, graceful and strong.
Clipper Work
The only clipper work generally done on the wheaten is on the ears. The inside portion may be
clipped out with a 30 or 40, and the outside of the ear is generally clipped with a 7f only from the
fold of the ear down. For certification purposes you may opt to clipper the cheeks and throat,
using a longer blade such as a 4f or 5f with the grain of the hair. Clipper work on the cheeks
should be from the ear corner to the eye corner, from the eye corner down to the corner of the
mouth, and then from there clipped to the whisker nodule under the lower jaw. The throat is
generally clipped down to approximately 3 finger’s width above the breast bone, blending
seamlessly into the chest and sides of the neck.
Body
The body of the wheaten follows the classic terrier profile, with everything blended smoothly and
no discernible lines. The body is groomed using primarily thinning shears, as the coat is to
appear natural without harsh scissor lines. The coat should be trimmed to accentuate the body,
with a flat top line, softly rounded rib cage, and moderate tuck up. The underline should be no
lower than the elbow, and flow smoothly up into the tuck up without being poodley. The chest is
scissored close, with no excessive coat hanging or impeding the impression of power. The rear
is trimmed tight to show powerful hindquarters. The body coat should never be trimmed so tight
that the coat loses wave or movement; that is, when the dog moves, the coat should flow and
move with each step.
Legs
should be parallel, with no flared bottoms or pinched feet, but of uniform size throughout. Due to
the nature of the coat, it is not expected that the hair be perfectly uniform and scissored when
combed up, the coat should be allowed to fall and drape, and then shaped and scissored.
The rear legs should look like a slight A frame when viewed from the rear, with the inside of the
thigh area and the inside of the hocks trimmed tight. Like the front legs, the lines on the outside
and inside should be parallel to each other, with no bell bottoms. From the side, the leg should
be trimmed to reflect the shape of the dog’s actual bone structure, showing a knee and a slight
foot. The rear of the leg is trimmed very close to the bend in the leg, flaring out slightly to the
hock. The hock should be trimmed perpendicular to the ground and not overly exaggerated.
The foot should be trimmed fairly close to make the dog appear up on his toes.
Tail
The tail is carrot shaped, with the backside being clipped closely with a 10 blade or scissored
very closely. The sides of the tail are trimmed tight, with the bulk of the hair being on the front
side of the tail. The tip is tapered, gradually getting longer as it nears the body. If necessary, a
small amount of fill hair may be left in the case of dogs with low tail sets, to make the tail flow
seamlessly into the body.
Head
The head is what sets the wheaten apart from other terriers. The top of the head is trimmed
using thinning shears to show a flat plane on top of the skull. A crescent of hair is left from outer
ear corner to outer ear corner, making a soft crown on the top of the head. The crown should be
blended into the ears. The sides of the skull are blended tight to the cheek with thinning shears,
so the head is brick shaped when viewed from the front. The eye corner is trimmed tight to the
head; however the hair over the eye should only be thinned, never cut in a harsh line. You
should be able to see the eyes in profile, but not from the front.
Neck
The neck ties the head into the body. The neck is well arched and stallionesque. The top of the
neck should be tighter, coming off the crown and gradually lengthening as it reaches the
withers. The sides of the neck are trimmed very close to avoid a coarse look.
© 2016 IGA. All rights reserved
IGA
GUIDELINES
Hand Strip Terrier
Welsh Terrier
Guidelines
by Deana Mazurkiewicz & Lindsey Dicken
HANDSTRIPPING GUIDELINES
Prep work should include:
-
clipped paw pads
clipped sanitary areas
clean and washed furnishings (back coat may be left unwashed)
chalk applied if necessary
Overview
Handstripping is the manual pulling of the coat to promote harsh texture and vivid color using
several different tools and techniques. Stripping the terrier coat keeps the skin healthy and the
coat coarse so that it repels dirt and protects the dog. When done correctly it should not cause
pain or discomfort to the dog. Clipping a harsh coated dog results in the coat becoming thick,
soft, and dull colored.
There are four main stripping techniques that be used on your certification dog: finger plucking,
using knives, using stones, and carding.
Finger Plucking
Finger plucking is exactly what it sounds like. Using your thumb and forefinger, grasp small
sections of top coat to remove them. Some people prefer to use rubber gloves, finger cots, or a
little chalk dabbed on the fingers to aid grip.
Stripping Knives
Knives come in a variety of styles and coarsenesses, and all do something slightly different. In
general, the more detailed the area to be stripped, the finer the coarseness of the knife. For
example, the ears and cheeks would be stripped with an extra fine as you want that area to be
close and tight, whereas a coarse knife would be better suited to large bulky areas on the body
to remove large portions of hair.
To properly use a stripping knife, grasp the hair between your thumb and the blade of the knife
and pull straight back without flicking your wrist. The goal is to pull the hair, not cut it. You can
check your work by examining the hairs you have pulled, you will be able to see the root of the
hairs if it’s pulled correctly. Sometimes new knives are sharp, and you’ll need to dull it prior to
use to avoid cutting hair.
Stones
There are a variety of stones on the market, such as pumice stones, horse blocks, and specially
made detailing stones. You use the the stone in a similar manner as a knife, grasping the hair
between your thumb and the stone and pulling straight back. Stones are a good option for
especially fuzzy coats but are a useful tool for the entire dog.
Carding
Carding is removing the soft undercoat but combing it out with a knife. Holding the skin taught,
lay the knife almost flat to the dog and rake the hair the out. If you are doing it properly, you will
have a soft ball of fuzz after a pass or two. This helps lay down bulky areas in the coat.
Brushes
A boar bristle brush is a useful tool to remove loose hair, dander, or particles from your stripping
stone. It can help bring oils up to the ends of the coat, making the coat shiny and healthy
looking. It also encourages the coat lay flat. A palm pad is another similar tool that can be
helpful in achieving this.
Body Work
The bulk of the body should be handstripped using any combination of the above techniques in
a pattern according to the breed standard. Coat should stripped uniformly without bald patches
or irritated skin. Thinning shears are permitted on the body as a touch up but the majority should
be done by hand.
Legs
The legs on long legged terriers may be either plucked or scissored for certification purposes.
Furnishing may be chalked and sprayed accordingly. On skirted breeds, the legs and skirt may
be trimmed with scissors in addition to plucking by hand. Feet on all breeds should be neat and
tidy.
Tail
The tail may be clipped on the backside and scissored around the edges; however the top
should be stripped in accordance to the breed standard.
Head
With the exception of Scotties and Schnauzers that have clippered cheeks and throat, the
flatwork on the head should be done by stripping. Thinning shears are permissible for
certification purposes to neaten up your work, as long you have shown proficient skill in
stripping these areas. Ears should be stripped on applicable breeds, however clipping the inside
and the edges of the ear is allowable.
Follow your guides from either the breed association, live classrooms, or other recommended
study guides for specifics on grooming the breed you choose. Pay close attention to head
styles, as they can seem very similar but have subtle differences.
IGA
GUIDELINES
Sporting
Cocker Spaniel
Illustration & Guidelines
by Janice Fehn
Grooming Guidelines for the American
Cocker Spaniel
My passion for Cocker Spaniels started in 1952. I have
been on a mission for many years to breed lovely, correct
dogs and promote the correct grooming techniques to
enhance the beauty of the breed. By using anatomy and
the breed standard, I hope to give you points of
reference to make this an easy guide to follow, whether
it is a pet dog in your shop or a dog in the competition
ring.
Prep work should include: clipping pads with a 30 blade
cleaning ears
clipping toenails
clean out stop and deep flews
around mouth
throughly brush out the coat
using a quality brush out
Bathe in a conditioning shampoo and conditioner using
more of a squeeze technique rather than scrubbing
action, especially with longer furnishings. The best drying
method is to dry straight down the back, then, legs,
furnishings, ears and the top of the head. Always bush
down and straighten coat as you go. Tight toweling will
help hold the back and side coat down while you dry the
rest of the body.
Now we are ready to begin! Using a 10 blade, clip
sanitary and just around the anus. Sanitize your blade,
and move to the head. Take the ear, with the head in a
normal position, and clip the top of the ear against the
grain straight across on a line with the bottom of her jaw.
Flip the ear upside down and keep the same line across
the inside of the year. Clean around the ear canal and
clean as much hair as possible from the inside of it. Make
sure you clip the whole ear up to where the ear connects
to the head.
All instructions are with the dog standing square and the
head in a normal position.
Place two fingers above the breastbone, and start
clipping against the grain and clip all the hair inside the
cowlick up to and include the lower jaw and flews.
Create a smile line from the corner of the mouth to the
outside edge of the eye. Clip into the stop and clean all
the hair out, to create a deep stop. Clip down the top of
the nose and the side of muzzle to the smile line with the
grain. Line can be blended with thinning shears during
finishing process.
The neck will be blended in using a 10 or 7f blade. Run
the blade in an arc down the side of the neck to the area
of the lay back of shoulder lift and blend with the clipper.
Start clipping from the point on either side of the
breastbone and blend into the shoulder and your neck
line.
Begin carding and thinning down the back to create a
smooth, hard textured top coat and blend into sides to
make a smooth and natural transition. It is desirable to
maintain hard back coat. If clipping is a must, nothing
shorter than 7f should be used and continue to card and
strip to clear the follicles of dead hair. Moving on to the
rear, blend down the hip to expose the thigh on this
sporting dog. Thin the loin area to accentuate a waist
line. Hold the tail to the side and blend into the hip. Clip
the hair off the underside of the tail completely. Blend
the hair on top of the tail into the clipped area under the
tail.
Feet and bevels can be symetrical without a whole bunch
of effort. Brush all hair down the leg and hold down tight
with your hand. Pick up the foot and scissor the hair off
flat across the bottom. Do not cut up around the side of
the foot. Place foot down on the table, continue to hold
hair tightly, and scissor around the foot in a circle.
Release the hair and it will pop up and you have your
bevel started. Clean off the edges and you’re done! Use
the same method on all four feet and they should match.
Return to the head, brush hair from the front to the back
of the skull. Start thinning the long hair left on the head
to create a slightly rounded dome. If the skull is well
constructed and shaped properly, you can leave less hair.
If you are dealing with a very flat skull you may need to
make the allusion by using hair to build a slightly
rounded dome. You comb hair side to side to make sure
everything even. Hair should be longer in the front and
lay over the top of the head. Eyebrows are exposed.
Scissor the edges of the ears. The bottom of the ear
should not be lower than the line of the shoulder
layback. Blend all lines so they are natural. No eyelashes!
You can enhance the chiseling under the eyes with a
blade or thinners. Give back a final carding and clean up
stays, an undercoat rake through ears and furnishings
will slick everything up!
Happy Grooming!
English Springer Spaniel
Prep work
clipping pads with a 30 blade cleaning ears
clipping toenails
clean out stop and deep flews
around mouth
throughly brush out the coat
using a quality brush out
General appearance
The English Springer Spaniel is a moderate sized dog of substance and overall balance. It has
a very well proportioned, chiseled head with a pleasing expression and eye. He is compact and
well proportioned and has medium length coat that is well feathered on his chest, legs and
underline. He carries a stong topline, has muscular legs with the rear and hind legs knot over
angulated. They are slightly longer from point of shoulder to the point of rear. The head should
be approximately the length of the neck and blend into a strong shoulder.
The head
The head should look parallel from the side, top of muzzle and top of skull. Use a 7f blade on
the head and muzzle following the lay of hair. Stop should be cleaned out somewhat with
thinning scissors, to form a gradual slope to top of head and the occiput should not be exposed.
Ears are clipped with a 10 blade against the grain on a level line even with the jaw line up to
meet the top of the skull. Always keep the dog in a natural position when marking reference
points.
Neck and throat
Placing your clipper two finger widths above the breast bone, clip inside of the cowlick on the
throat against the grain and continue up to clean off the lower jaw, paying attention to flews. Clip
the rest of the face from the corner of the mouth to the outside corner of the eye. Clean .off hair
around the ear canal. Using a 7f blade, blend the side of neck to layback of shoulder. Holding
the front leg straight forward, clean all the hair that does not drop off the back of the leg off.
Chest hair should fall separately into the under line. Brushing the hair up from between the toes,
the hair needs to be scissored or thinned into a soft, tight foot with nails not exposed.
Body
The body has a tight neat jacket that is carded and thinned to the correct length and density.
The jacket wraps smoothly down to the underline. The underline is continued from the chest
hair at elbow level sloping to the tuck up below the last rib then down to follow the front of the
thigh. The furnishings will fall from the front of the leg to the level of top of the hock. Furnishings
on the back of leg should drop between the back of the legs. Hock hair is trimmed to give a
slightly rounded hock. Foot trimmed like the front feet except should be smaller.
Finish with a good carding and then tidy with a thinning shear. Make sure edges of ears are
trimmed off and eyelashes are gone. Blend all transition lines with thinning shears.
Copyright Intellectual Gromers Association, INC 2016
IGA
GUIDELINES
Non-Sporting
Poodle
by Lindsey Dicken
GROOMING GUIDELINES FOR THE POODLE
-
clipped paw pads
freshly shampooed and dried coat
General Appearance
A square dog with curly, dense coat. A poodle should appear proud, elegant and athletic. The
two acceptable trims for certification purposes will be the Sporting/Modern trim and the German
trim.
Body
The body for both styles should be trimmed to accentuate the contours of the dog. The top line
is level. The ribcage should be trimmed to appear moderately well sprung, and the chest should
be deep but trimmed no lower than the elbow. The forechest is well defined, but not so extreme
as to detract from the overall outline. The chest should flow smoothly into the underchest in an
unbroken line. The rear is trimmed to show a defined shelf, being neither too pointy nor too
rounded. The dog should be square in proportion when viewed in profile.
Legs
Feet should be shaved with your blade of choice ranging from a #10-#40. Shave lines should
go up to the ankle bones all the way around the foot, with no stray hairs between toes or around
toenails.
should be parallel, with no flared bottoms or pinched feet, but of uniform size throughout. Cuffs
should be tidy, beveled and uniform, and of the same height on all four legs.
The rear legs, like the front legs, should have parallel lines when viewed from the rear, without
heaviness around the feet or bellbottoms. The inside of the thighs and inside of the hocks
should be trimmed tighter than the outside. In profile, the hair should be trimmed following the
dog’s anatomy, with knee definition. The bend of the leg should be trimmed very close, with the
hair flaring out slightly into the hock. The hocks are trimmed perpendicular to the ground, and of
sufficient fullness to balance the neck and head.
Tail
For the Sporting/Modern Trim, the tail base should be shaved with the blade of your choice,
from #10-#40. A small V or U should be shaved around the tail root, to match whichever shape
you do on the throat clipperwork. The tail should be clipped so that when the tail is pulled down,
the clipper line is level with the bottom of the rectum. The remaining hair is scissored into a full
circle or oval, of sufficient height to be level with the occiput.
For the German Trim, there are two options. The first option is to shave the entire tail off,
including the aforementioned V or U shape at the base of the tail. This should be done with
nothing shorter than a #10 blade (the blade choice should reflect what will be used to clip to the
ears). The second option is to shave the backside of the tail, trim the sides tight, and leave the
hair on the front slightly longer similar to that of a terrier. Either style is permissible, as long as
the ears are in balance with the tail.
Head
The face and neck should be clipped with your choice of blade ranging from #10-#40. The
clipper line should extend from the eye corner to the ear corner, and from the back of the ear
opening down to a V or U on the neck. If the dog is ewe necked, the clippered area should only
extend to the bulge of the throat, never below. The lip line should be clipped clean and free of
stray hair and debris. Mustaches and/or goatees are permissible. The topknot should be
scissored in a fashion so that the hair does not hang in the eyes, but a slight visor over the eyes
is left to create the expression. The sides are scissored tight and a clean line is made over the
ear separating ears from the head. The height of the topknot should be in proportion to the rest
of the body to keep overall balance. The back of the head flows seamlessly into the neck.
Ears
For the Sporting/Modern trim, the hair on the ear leather is left long and flowing, trimmed to a
length that does not detract from the profile. The ears should be even and match on both sides.
For the German trim, the hair on the inside should be clipped very short, and the outside may be
trimmed with anything from a #10-#4f. The edges should be trimmed to appear very neat and
crisp. Keep in mind that you need to balance the ear with the tail style; for example, if you are
using a #4f on the ears, you would want to opt for the fuller terrier style tail, and if you choose to
use a #10 on the ears, you would then shave the tail completely off to balance.
Neck
The neck for both trims is left full, coming off the back of the head and flowing down to just past
the withers. The sides of the neck are trimmed tighter and the crest is left longer.
IGA
GUIDELINES
Non-Sporting
Bichon Frise
by Lindsey Dicken
GROOMING GUIDELINES FOR THE BICHON FRISE
-
clipped paw pads
freshly shampooed and dried coat, paying close attention to flews, ears and stop area
General Appearance
The bichon should overall be rounded, flowing angles, with no gross exaggerations. The dog is
slightly longer than it is tall. The head serves as a frame for large, dark eyes and an inquisitive
expression. The coat is plush and scissored to give the impression of a soft powderpuff.
Body
The body of the bichon is trimmed following the contours of the dog. The coat should be
trimmed to a length that the dog appears plush, never so tight that you can see skin. The top
line is level. The ribcage is trimmed to show a well sprung rib, never slab sided. The underline
is generally trimmed very tight. The chest is trimmed close, softly rounded, but never overdone
or exaggerated as to make the dog look front heavy. The rear is trimmed into a rounded, plush
shape mirroring the dog’s natural conformation, without leaving too much added length. The dog
should be slightly longer than tall when viewed in profile, but not overly so.
Legs
should be parallel, with no flared bottoms or pinched feet, but of uniform size throughout.
The rear legs, like the front legs, should have parallel lines when viewed from the rear, without
heaviness around the feet or bellbottoms. The inside of the thighs and inside of the hocks
should be trimmed tighter than the outside. In profile, the hair should be trimmed following the
dog’s anatomy, with soft knee definition, and the feet trimmed to appear as though the dog is up
on its toes. The bend of the leg should be trimmed very close, with the hair flaring out slightly
into the hock. The hocks are trimmed perpendicular to the ground, and of sufficient fullness to
balance the head.
Tail
The tail base is clipped close with a 10 blade on the backside coming up from the rectum. The
sides of the tail are scissored tight approximately 1” up from the tail root, to separate the tail
from the body. On the top of the tail, the root is scissored again approximately 1” from the base,
leaving slightly more length so that it flows into the body in an unbroken line. The ends of the tail
are left natural, never trimmed in a harsh line.
Head
The area between the eye corners and the entire stop should be clipped, but never down the
bridge of the nose. The area on the upper lip below the nose should be clipped to the width of
the nose. The hair over the eyes should be trimmed into a soft U shape, extending slightly past
the eye corners so that the eyes are visible in profile. The entire head should be trimmed into a
circular shape, with the triangle area formed by the eyes and nose being in the center of the
circle. The ears should blend seamlessly into the head. The ears should never be lifted to trim.
The area behind the ears should be trimmed tightly to separate head from neck. When the head
is raised, the hair on the jaw should be trimmed in line with the adams apple in a clean line, with
the throat directly below trimmed very close to the skin to separate the head from the body.
Neck
The neck is left full, and starts at the top of the head, flowing down to just behind the withers.
The sides of the neck are trimmed close, keeping in line with the body. When viewing a properly
stacked dog in profile, you should be able to draw an imaginary line down the neck, through the
body, into the tuck up, and ending at the toes of the rear leg to check your balance.
IGA
GUIDELINES
Feline
Cat
Guidelines by Dana Chavez-Rey
Core value



We strive to act as an advocate for the best interest of the feline
We respond to the individual needs of the feline
We believe that felines should be treated with dignity and respect as feeling
creatures, and we strive to ensure that
Feline mission statement

To ensure humane treatment and improve the quality of life for all felines through
service, education, advocacy and example
1
Feline History
How it began
History of feline domestication
Cats were domesticated approximately 4,000 years ago, and probably lived in
association with humans for 1,000 years prior to that. The presence of cats was initially
encouraged because they served as a very effective means of pest control by preying
on rodents that carry disease and ate stored grain. For a portion of cats domestication
history they were considered to be a sacred animal. A person could be put to death for
harming a cat. However, during the middle ages in Europe, cats became associated
with witchcraft and fell into disfavor. During those times a person could be put to death
for owning a cat. Cats have this had much more varied history of association with
people than have dogs, and were not really valued as companion animals until the early
19th century.
Evolution and the effects of domestication on behavior
Since cats are descendants from wild ancestors (African Wildcats), many of their
behaviors are similar to their wild forbearers. Domestication is a long-term process, one
that takes place over many generations and hundreds, if not thousands, of years.
The major differences in behavior between domestic animals and their wild counterparts
are often a matter of degree, not kind. In other words, the intensity of the stimulation or
trigger that leads to behavior is different, or the threshold at which it appears is either
higher or lower in the domestic animal than in the wild species.
Despite the similarities between domestic cats and their wild counterparts, it would be a
mistake and an oversimplification to think that their behaviors are essentially
identical. Domestication does have significant effects, or it would be as easy to make a
pet out of the leopard or cheetah, as it is a Siamese cat.
However the distance of separation between "wild" and "domesticated" has
subdivisions, consider the following differences:



"Domesticated" refers to an entire species that has been altered, over
generations, to be dependent upon humans for their needs.
"Wild" also refers to an entire species, but the only thing wild animals need from
humans, is to be left alone.
"Pet" or "companion animal" refers to a domesticated species whose
dependence upon humans has been heightened even more than that of
livestock. Their primary jobs are connected to their relationship with people.
2
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"Stray" refers to an individual animal within domesticated a species that has lived
with people but is temporarily fending for itself.
"Feral" refers to an individual animal within a domesticated species that has
never lived with people. A feral animal is NOT a wild animal. These animals are
usually the second or third generation offspring of a stray animal.
In other words it takes a very long time to change (domesticate) an entire species, and
even more time for a domesticated species to take the next step to being pets. A cat
cannot and will not "revert" to being a wild animal.
Factors contributing to behavior
The following factors can serve as a valuable starting point in determining individual
animals behavioral tendencies; there are no absolutes in determining the behavior of an
individual
Factors of genetics
Factor of experience
Species
Learning
Breed type
Socialization
bloodline
Developmental level
individual
psychological trauma
gender
physical trauma
age
Health status
Although feline social structure is not like a pack system of dogs, they’re not totally
independent. Cats also learn through social facilitation, if in less obvious ways, for
example the very fact that cats are highly territorial requires that they be aware of and
react to the behavior of those around them.
Cats constantly observe the behavior of those around them. Many learn specific
behaviors, and their consequences, through observation of their own species and
others. Most cats and some types of dogs are more likely to learn through observation.
Others must "do" to understand.
Therefore, the experiences that are so important to the needs and behavior of an
individual animal are greatly influenced by that animal’s observation and connection
with those around him including people.
3
Classifying Feline Body Types
Oriental body types what to look for
Sleek, long, and lanky with exaggerated ears legs and tail think "triangles". Most oriental
types are smooth coated and come in any color.
What to expect: busy, curious, stubborn, athletic, intelligent, very dominant, vocal,
particular about affection, and easily insulted. The herding dog of the cat world. When
anxious they can become destructive, including chewing sometimes ingesting fabric,
spray marking and other methods of "acting out".
Persian body types what to look for
Extremely flat faces, very large eyes, obvious roundhead and bodies. Their ears are
round and close to the head. Think "circle". They can be short or long-haired and come
in any color. With the long-haired variety the coat is very fine and silky, matting very
easily.
4
Cat identification cheat sheet
5
Sociability
Social grooming.
Although wildcats are solitary, the social behavior of domestic cats is much more
variable and ranges from widely dispersed individuals to feral cat colonies that form
around a food source, based on groups of co-operating females. Within such groups,
one cat is usually dominant over the others. Each cat in a colony holds a distinct
territory, with sexually active males having the largest territories, which are about 10
times larger than those of female cats and may overlap with several females'
territories. These territories are marked by urine spraying, by rubbing objects at head
height with secretions from facial glands, and by defecation. Between these territories
are neutral areas where cats watch and greet one another without territorial conflicts.
Outside these neutral areas, territory holders usually chase away stranger cats, at first
by staring, hissing, and growling, and if that does not work, by short but noisy and
violent attacks. Despite some cats cohabiting in colonies, they do not have a social
survival strategy, or a pack mentality, and always hunt alone.
Cat with an Alaskan Malamute dog
6
However, some pet cats are poorly socialized. In particular, older cats may show
aggressiveness towards newly arrived kittens, which may include biting and scratching;
this type of behavior is known as feline asocial aggression.
Though cats and dogs are believed to be natural enemies, they can live together if
correctly socialized.
Life in proximity to humans and other domestic animals has led to a symbiotic social
adaptation in cats, and cats may express great affection toward humans or other
animals. Ethologically, the human keeper of a cat may function as a sort of surrogate for
the cat's mother, and adult housecats live their lives in a kind of extended kittenhood, a
form of behavioral neoteny. The high-pitched sounds housecats make to solicit food
may mimic the cries of a hungry human infant, making them particularly hard for
humans to ignore.
Communication
Domestic cats use many vocalizations for communication, including purring, trilling,
hissing, growling/snarling, grunting, and several different forms of meowing. By contrast,
feral cats are generally silent. Their types of body language, including position of ears
and tail, relaxation of the whole body, and kneading of the paws, are all indicators of
mood. The tail and ears are particularly important social signal mechanisms in cats; for
example, a raised tail acts as a friendly greeting, and flattened ears indicates hostility.
Tail-raising also indicates the cat's position in the group's social hierarchy, with
dominant individuals raising their tails less often than subordinate animals. Nose-tonose touching is also a common greeting and may be followed by social grooming,
which is solicited by one of the cats raising and tilting its head.
Purring may have developed as an evolutionary advantage as a signaling mechanism of
reassurance between mother cats and nursing kittens. Post-nursing cats often purr as a
sign of contentment: when being petted, becoming relaxed, or eating. The mechanism
by which cats purr is elusive. The cat has no unique anatomical feature that is clearly
responsible for the sound It was, until recent times, believed that only the cats of
the Felis genus could purr. However, felids of the Panthera genus (tiger, lion, jaguar,
and leopard) also produce sounds similar to purring, but only when exhaling.
Fighting
Among domestic cats, males are more likely to fight than females. Among feral cats, the
most common reason for cat fighting is competition between two males to mate with a
female. In such cases, most fights are won by the heavier male. Another common
reason for fighting in domestic cats is the difficulty of establishing territories within a
small home. Female cats also fight over territory or to defend their kittens. Neutering will
7
decrease or eliminate this behavior in many cases, suggesting that the behavior is
linked to sex hormones.
Indicating aggression
When cats become aggressive, they try to make themselves appear larger and more
threatening by raising their fur, arching their backs, turning sideways and hissing or
spitting. Often, the ears are pointed down and back to avoid damage to the inner ear
and potentially listen for any changes behind them while focused forward. They may
also vocalize loudly and bare their teeth in an effort to further intimidate their opponent.
Fights usually consist of grappling and delivering powerful slaps to the face and body
with the forepaws as well as bites. Cats also throw themselves to the ground in a
defensive posture to rake their opponent's belly with their powerful hind legs.
Serious damage is rare, as the fights are usually short in duration, with the loser running
away with little more than a few scratches to the face and ears. However, fights for
mating rights are typically more severe and injuries may include deep puncture wounds
and lacerations. Normally, serious injuries from fighting are limited to infections of
scratches and bites, though these can occasionally kill cats if untreated. In addition,
bites are probably the main route of transmission of feline immunodeficiency
virus. Sexually active males are usually involved in many fights during their lives, and
often have decidedly battered faces with obvious scars and cuts to their ears and nose.
8
Feline Aggression
Cats do not take the offensive and "attack" as frequent as dogs too. Nevertheless,
cases have been reported in which cats have cornered their owners in a room of the
house and threatened them if they attempted to move. This is usually redirected
behavior. Cats usually attack non-family members, only if they attempt to hold or pet an
aggressive cat. Cats will also sometimes display playful aggression towards visitors.
Territorial aggression directed at visitors has also been reported, but this is infrequent.
Cats can represent a danger to their owners, to other people, and to other animals. A
cat owner is responsible and liable for the cats behavior.
Direct punishment is not an effective or appropriate way of working with cat aggression.
Trying to punish an aggressive cat using physical force will most likely result in either
the person being injured, the cat becoming more fearful and /or more aggressive, or
both.
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Territorial aggression. This occurs when a cat believes that an intruder has
invaded her territory. It can be triggered by introducing a new cat into the house,
outdoor cat viewed through windows or doors, a resident cat reaching sexual
maturity, or by the encounters with neighborhood cats outside. It generally
involves one cat chasing and/or ambushing another, while the victim frequently
becomes extremely fearful and hides a great part of the time. Both female and
male can display territorial aggression. It's not uncommon for a cat to be
territorially aggressive towards one family cat and not the other.
Inter-male aggression. Adult male cats normally tend to threaten, sometimes
fight with other males. These behaviors can occur as sexual challenges over
female, or to have a relatively high position in the cats' loosely organized social
dominance hierarchy. This type of aggression involves much ritualized body
posturing, stalking, staring, yowling and howling. Attacks are usually avoided if
one cat "backs down" and walks away. If an attack occurs, the attacker will
usually jump forward, directing a bite to the nape of the neck, while I opponent
falls to the ground on his back and attempts to bite and scratch the attackers
belly with his hind legs. The cats may roll around fighting and screaming,
suddenly stop, resume posturing, fight again or walk away.
Fear/defensive aggression. The aggression occurs because the cat is afraid or
threatened, is defending himself against harm, and usually perceives there is no
escape. It may occur in response to an aggressive threat from another cat, when
the groomer reaches for him or attempts to restrain him or when he's frightened
by a stimuli such as loud noises.
Play related aggression. This can be defined as rough and persistent play that
results in injury to the owner or another animal. It often occurs with young cats
who do not have appropriate outlets for playful behavior and whose owners may
have encouraged combative types of play directed towards their hands and feet.
Predatory aggression. This is usually preceded by chasing, stocking, and other
hunting behavior. Cats will sometimes hunt prey even if they are well fed, and
9
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can learn to hunt even if they're never observed their mothers doing so. This
behavior is usually focus on smaller animals, but can also be directed at dogs,
other cat, children, and adults.
Pain induced aggression. Cats, like most other animal species, may be come
aggressive if they have a painful physical condition such as an injury, arthritis, or
inflammation of an internal organ. Moving, touching, or restraining the cat or even
"threatening" to do so may result in a fight from a cat in pain.
Maternal aggression. Mothers who have a new litter of kittens may be very
protective of their offspring and become aggressive towards anyone who
attempts to approach the kittens. Typically, this reaction is most intense for the
first day or two after delivery, but some cats will not tolerate anyone who gets to
close for several days or week.
Medically related aggression. Some neurological and endocrine diseases can
result in aggressive behavior. These conditions are rare and you are unlikely to
encounter them.
Irritable aggression. It is not uncommon for some cats to bite after being petted
for a period of time. While the behavior is not well understood, one of the theories
explaining this behavior is at the cat is responding to being petted as he would to
a social grooming from another cat. Petting is acceptable for short period, but
results in aggressive behavior when the groomer does not respond to the cat’s
signals to stop. Body signals are often missed by groomers and can include tail
twitching, quick change in position, restlessness, tenseness, or biting intention
movements turning the head as though they are ready to biting "whipping
around". Overstimulation is displayed by a lower level of similar signals, and can
quickly escalate into irritable aggression if they are ignored. Sometimes this type
of aggression is referred to as "Don't pet me anymore" aggression. Some
medical conditions may lead to irritability due to discomfort or nervousness.
Redirected aggression. This type of aggression is directed towards a person or
an animal who did not initially provoke the behavior. For example, a household
cat sitting in the window may see an outdoor cat walking across the front yard.
Because he cannot attack the outdoor cat, he may and turn and attack the family
cat who is sitting next to him. Redirected aggression can be either offensive or
defensive in nature. This may be sometimes a catalyst for the development of
other types of aggression.
Cats may display more than one type of aggressive behavior. They often show
elements of both offensive and defensive postures, as well as approach-avoidance
behavior, all within a single aggressive encounter. Cats involved in dominance
aggression or fear induced aggression will often display both defensive and attack
postures.
10
An offensive posture is characterized by:
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A standing posture, with the rear higher than the front or arched back.
Piloerection along the middle of the back.
Tail bent downward beginning about 1 inch from the body.
Pupils may be somewhat constricted.
Head forward, here's up and facing outward.
Direct eye contact with the opponent.
A defensive posture is characterized by:
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A crouching posture with a head drawn in for protection.
Ears pulled back and flatten.
Tail tucked
Pupils dilated
Piloerection on most of the body and tail
May roll over onto the back. This should not be confused with the submissive
posture as it enables the cat to use all 4 feet to defend themselves.
Cats may stay aroused for several hours after an aggressive encounter. Because of
this, redirected aggression occurs frequently. An owner of another cat attempting to
interact with an aroused cat may become the object of an attack. If a cat is aroused or
frightened by a stimulus, and is still in an offensive or defensive posture, then
encounters another cat in the house, the second cat may react as though the posture is
directed at them.
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Grooming Guidelines
The most common accidents stem from rushed handling, overstimulation,
tight quarters, and unnecessary chaos.
Before you begin
Look the part.
Dress in professional attire
Have a clear attitude
Set the tone with music or aromatherapy
Work space clean and ready
Tub area clean and ready
Shampoos mixed or primed
Water tempered
Lay all your necessary tools out
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Tools
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Nail trimmers
Have 2 of every blade
#40
#10 or #15
#3
Stainless steel clipper combs
clippers
small hand held clippers
High powered drier
small fine stainless steel face comb
medium to fine course comb
pin brush
slicker
Furminator
Air muzzle
Elizabethan collar
Happy hoodie
Materials
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Felaway
Real cotton
Ear cleaner
Shampoo
Conditioner
Degreaser
Vet wrap or coflex
2 mats
Table
Tub
Hand towel 2-4 large towels
soft paws
Bows
Surface cleaner
Equipment disinfectant
2 large plastic or steel containers
Cornstarch
Mask
Goggles
Ear plugs
13
Bait
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Small, very stinky treats.
Focusing attention (encouraging looking in a different direction)
Bribery (coaxing out of carrier)
Proper use of bait can make your job much easier!
Think about these things:
Why are you restraining cat? What is your purpose/goal?
How many people (and hands) are cluttering up the situation? Extra hands can either
make the job much quicker and easier or they can make the job more hazardous and
difficult.
Where are you? What room? Is the cat in a kennel, carrier, on the grooming table?
What are your options to support the cat? What can be changed about the environment
to reduce stress? Can both people reach the cat and restrain the cat comfortably?
What kind of and how many changes/transitions must the cat go through in order to
accomplish our purpose? How long has the cat been in that environment, and where did
it just come from? The goal is to get the task accurately accomplished with the least
stress possible for all involved.
14
Let’s Get Started
Getting a cat out of a carrier
Get the cat’s attention before opening the carrier
Give the cat the opportunity to check out your
fingers before you pick them up. The cat should
come toward you, not the other way around. Don't
press your luck! If you don't feel comfortable
removing the cat from its carrier, wait.
Do use distraction, when possible, to remove
feline from the carrier.
Remember that the cat will feel safer, and you will
be safer, in firmly held positions; one hand
controlling the head and neck, opposite elbow
supporting the hindquarters, and that hand
controlling the front feet. Take a moment to
readjust your grip on the cat if you need to. Grooming tables and counter tops are
handy places to rest the cat's feet and support his weight while you get more
comfortable.
Always control the
feline’s neck and
head, no matter how
sweet or relaxed he
seems to be at the
moment. Situations
change in the blink of
an eye.
Do try to work with
gravity, not against it.
When stretching or
restraining, press the
feline’s waist down
rather than up
whenever possible.
Do take a moment to
adjust your grip on
the cat if you need to.
15
Do continue to block feline’s line of vision. React quickly if you see a possible panic
attack, fear bite, or bite due to overstimulation. Watch for enlarged pupils, thrashing tail,
growling, hissing and efforts to hide or escape.
Allowing the cat to have an
opportunity to evaluate the
environment gives you a better
chance at success.
Supporting a cat’s weight ONLY
by the scruff is unacceptable!
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How to recognize feline distress
(source http://icatcare.org/advice/problem-behaviour/stressed-cats)
Acute stress
Acute stress may be caused by an unexpected incident or threat and is relatively easy
to recognize in cats.
Many of the following signs may be evident:
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Immobility
Body – crouched directly on top of all fours, shaking
Belly – not exposed, rapid breathing
Legs – bent
Tail – close to the body
Head – lower than the body, motionless
Eyes – fully open
Pupils – fully dilated
Ears – fully flattened back on the head
Whiskers – back
Vocalization – plaintive meow, yowling, growling or silent
Hissing, growling, shaking, drooling
Involuntary urination, defecation
Aggression if approached
A panting cat is a
stressed cat.
17
(Source http://www.cathospitalofchicago.com/online-cat-health-library/pain-recognitionand-management-in-cats)
How Do I Tell If My Cat Is In Pain?
Determining if your cat is in pain is like playing detective: You must observe and
evaluate all of the evidence presented to you. Remember, just because your cat isn’t
crying or showing any other overt signs of pain doesn’t mean she’s not hurting.
Occasionally, cats will cry out in pain, but this is rare – most cats instead will suffer in
silence.
First, if your cat has had a surgical procedure, or is suffering from an injury or disease
that would be painful for you, assume that it’s painful for your cat, too. Having a tooth
pulled hurts! So does any incision or serious injury. And cancer and other diseases can
cause tremendous pain.
Second, strap on your detective’s hat and closely, critically observe your cat’s behavior.
Changes in a cat’s behavior or normal routine often are the first signs of pain or illness.
But those changes aren’t always obvious. Often, especially early in the course of illness
or if a cat is experiencing only mild to moderate pain, these differences can be quite
subtle, and they may be the only signs that a cat exhibits.
So the better you know your cat’s usual way of doing things, the more likely you are to
pick up on cues that your cat may be hurting.
Here are some signs that your cat may be in pain:
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Lack of grooming
Sleeping a lot and/or sleeping in only one position, especially if this is a change
from weeks/months/years past.
Lack of interest in food, water or surrounding
Wanting to be left alone
Growling or hissing when stroked, touched or moved
Nonstop purring
Licking a particular area
Abnormal body positions, such as a hunched-back or head-in-the-corner stance
Restlessness
Change in food preferences, sleeping spots and/or litter box habits
General irritability or crankiness
Reluctance to jump to favorite spots, such as window sills and beds
Reduced social interactions with owners, other cats in home
Hiding or isolating oneself
18
SEDATION
Acepromazine and Chlorpromazine
Terry Kelley CVT, CPDT
Acepromazine (Promace ®) and Chlorpromazine are two commonly used
phenothiazine tranquilizers in veterinary clinics. Their primary method of action is as
a Dopamine antagonist, which suppresses both normal and abnormal behavior,
including a decrease in coordinated locomotor responsiveness. They are not antianxiety drugs and do not provide any analgesia (pain relief).
Ace has a variety of uses (ex: anti-nausea, anti-emetic, decrease itching due to
allergies) but is routinely used to sedate fearful or aggressive dogs and cats prior to
veterinary visits or as an at-home remedy for noise phobias (thunderstorms,
fireworks).
Chlorpromazine (Thorazine ®) is almost identical to Acepromazine and is just as
potent. When called Thorazine, it elicits a much stronger reaction from audiences as
it was the first antipsychotic to be commonly used in the 1950s and
1960s. Chlorpromazine is used in veterinary medicine as an antiemetic (antivomiting and nausea) and a tranquilizer.
Research has shown these drugs functions primarily as chemical restraints without
affecting the animal’s emotional behavior. While under the effect of Ace, the animal
still has a very strong fear, anxiety, avoidance or arousal response, but it does not
physically display these reactions and is less able to react. The dog or cat appears
calm and relaxed but mentally is lucid and still having an intense emotional reaction
to its surroundings. Ace is a dissociative agent and prevents the patient from
understanding his environment in a logical manner. So, the actual fear level of the
animal is increased. Compounding the situation, the animal is being restrained and
it makes a negative association with the entire experience.
According to veterinary behaviorist Dr. Vint Virga, DVM, ACVB, this is one of the
reasons, why clinics are seeing so many animals, who have been previously given
Ace, continuing to be fearful during veterinary exams. It becomes a never-ending
cycle of chemical restraint and continued fear for the patient. Another potential
danger from using Ace, is their fear may intensify to a level, where they override the
physiological effects and can physically break through the chemical restraint. The
animal seems ‘out of it’, but is having an intense emotional reaction and bites. Dr.
Virga has seen serious trauma (typically to faces) to veterinary staff, when trying to
restrain an animal on Ace and break-through occurs. He has also observed that
clients have an overall negative response to the use of Ace for their pet and speak
unfavorably of it. Owners leave with a highly sedated animal, which is ataxic or
immobile and the drug effects may require up to 12 hours to disappear.
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Ace is appropriate as a tranquilizer for the happy, jubilant, bouncing Labrador, who
has no anxiety, stress or fear. These dogs simply need to be slowed down so an
examination, ear swab, mouth exam can be performed. Ace is also appropriate
when used as a pre-operative agent in a balanced anesthesia, with other drugs (ex:
atropine) as it helps to lower the overall amount of anesthesia required and has
antidysrhythmic (prevents arrhythmia, erratic heart rhythm) effects.
Side effects of Ace include (but are not limited to): increased noise sensitivity and
startle response, decreased respiration, bradycardia leading to cardiovascular
collapse (dogs and cats), hypotension, erratic thermoregulation leading to
hypothermia or hyperthermia, a decrease in seizure thresholds, muscle spasms,
excitation and sudden aggression (break-through response), absent pulse,
unconsciousness. The duration of Ace also varies in each individual, thus making
the fearful or aggressive patient even more unpredictable. Note: Ace should never
be used as a tranquilizer for animals traveling due to the erratic thermoregulation
effects (inability to control body temperature in cold or hot conditions).
Veterinary behaviorists now prefer the use of Benzodiazepines such as Diazepam
(Valium) and Alprazolam (Xanax) as alternative drugs which affect the central
nervous system and actually reduce anxiety, stress and fear. They have a calming
and amnesic effect on the patient and their fast acting effects begin within 30
minutes to 2 hours after oral administration. The dog or cat is sedated, its muscles
are relaxed and their fear and anxiety is greatly reduced or eliminated.
Ace, used to sedate fearful animals, is no longer appropriate. Its use should be
discontinued. We, as owners, need to advocate for our pets and do what is in their
best interest both physically and emotionally. So, if your veterinarian wants to
prescribe Acepromazine or Chlorpromazine to ‘calm’ your fearful Fido or Fluffy,
politely decline the offer and ask for one of the newer alternative medications.
For veterinarians who want to research the effects of Acepromazine and
Chlorpromazine drugs, two very good reference books are “The Handbook of
Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat” by Landsberg, Hunthausen, and Ackerman,
and “Veterinary Psychopharmacology” by Sharon Crowell-Davis.
*The author would like to thank Dr. Virga for providing detailed information on
Acepromazine and Chlorpromazine. Dr. Virga is a board-certified Diplomate of the
American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. He is currently the president of Behavioral
Medicine for AnimalsSM. Dr. Virga currently attends companion animal cases East
Greenwich and zoo animal cases on site at zoological gardens and wild animal parks. His
special interests include stereotypic behaviors, self-directed behaviors, and environmental
and social enrichment for captive wildlife.
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Common mistakes when implementing techniques
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Trying to comfort a restraining cat during introductions
Attempting to progress too fast and not allowing enough time to habituate each
level of progression
Making steps between levels of progression too large
Failing to identify all of the elements of the situation that elect a fear or
threaten/threatening reaction
Abdominal shave. Appropriate for long haired cats, the belly shave removes most of
the hair underneath your cat. This cut is an extension of the sanitary cut. It makes it
easier for your cat to clean himself. A belly shave prevents matting. You cannot see a
belly shave when your cat is walking.
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Use an appropriate cat fur clipper.
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Pull the skin taut.
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Shave under the tail and around the rectum.
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Shave between the rear legs.
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Shave up the belly area to the armpits of the front legs.
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Shave the chest. Work down to your cat’s belly. First, shave with the hair growth so
you can remove most of the hair and see better. Then, reverse the clipper’s direction
and shave upward to get a smooth finish
Perform the sanitary or hygiene cut. This cut is appropriate for long hair and
overweight cats. The sanitary or hygiene cut is purely functional.
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Pull the skin taut. When shaving your cat, be sure to stretch the skin enough so
you do not nick your cat
Shave the back. Start near the base of the tail on your cat’s back. Use a #10 blade
clipper and shave against the growth of the hair. Shave up the back toward your
cat’s head.
Move your clippers properly. Have your clippers proceed in the direction of the lie
of the fur. Aim to skim the clippers over the surface. Avoid applying downward
pressure to the clippers as this is more likely to abrade the skin
Avoid high risk areas. Do not shave further down the legs and paws where skin,
ligaments, and tendons are sensitive to nicking. Do not shave any whiskers
(including by the muzzle, above the eyes, and the backside of front paws). [9] If your
cat appears particularly agitated while you are shaving near a sensitive area, stop
immediately.
Shave the front legs and armpits. Fully extend the legs. Pull the loose skin of the
armpit taut to prevent nicks or cuts. Shave up and over the elbow approximately one
inch. Using the bare line underneath the arm, work toward the front and even up all
sides. Again, use the clippers to shave with the growth to create a line. Reverse the
clippers then and shave against the growth to have a smooth the finish and define
the line.
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Shave the rear legs. First, extend the rear legs. Shave downward to remove the
bulk of hair and gain visibility. Next, shave upwards against the growth. Shave until
just above your cat’s ankle joint.
Groom the neckline. Pull the ruff forward and start shaving at the back of the neck.
Pull the skin taut and back. Work forward with the clippers against the growth.
Imagine your cat is wearing a collar. Use the natural collar line as the guide. Once
the lines become even at the back of the neck, move to the front of the cat's chin.
Shave upward to her natural collar line. Then work around both sides of the neck to
blend the front and back lines together, keeping with the natural collar line.
Lion clip modification: No mane
before
After
Any cat, regardless of breed, has the potential to be kept in show condition.
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FACT: Mats are not good for a cat.
A cat with a pelt, which could have been prevented by regular bathing and blow
drying.
Matted, tangled, or pelted hair creates discomfort, sores, infections, and even death. A
pelted cat that cannot freely move about or potty because of blockage will DIE.
Prevention is always best. Prevention is the humane choice. Whether mat removal is
done with clippers or during the drying process with a comb, is determined by a few
things:

severity of the mats

skin condition of the cat

age and health of the cat

temperament
When severe matting or pelting is present, shaving becomes the only option for
removal. Shaving, for cats with certain skin or health conditions or those of an
aggressive nature, is very dangerous. If it is the only option for rectifying the situation, it
must be done. But it should only be done ONCE (because it has to)! Prevention is the
key from that point forward.
Matt or pelt relief can be painful and stressful.
Some would consider just combing the matts to be cruel. Dematting is addressing the
issue at hand but not offering preventative care.
25
FACT: Regular bathing and blow-drying will prevent mats and pelts. Regular
grooming every 4-6 wks including coat thoroughly blown out with a high velocity dryer,
matting becomes a thing of the past. It is important to use your finishing tools such as:
Med/Fine course metal comb
Slicker brush
SENARIOR

Cannot be sedated due to age

The pelt will only come off by having it

Shaving is dangerous because the cat’s skin is paper thin due to age and/or
health. The probability of nicking or cutting is real. Shaving the pelt requires a
blade very close to the cat’s skin; sometimes the being able to see what is
underneath is virtually impossible.

History of being agitated to the shaving process under normal conditions.

Grooming visit intensifies with lifting and pulling on a tight pelt that has created
open sores on the derma.

Because of the cat’s age or health, anesthesia or sedation is too risky and will
not be done by the client’s veterinarian.
Please remember if the pelt isn’t removed severe discomfort will turn to pain as the fur
will begin to rip out of the skin with each movement of the cat. The cat has a strong
possibility of dying if it becomes septic.
26
The risk of cutting or nicking the skin still exists. There is also a possibility that the cat
will die from the stress of the pelt-removal.
Education is key
“Cats groom themselves” or “cats hate water”: Perpetuating these myths is a disservice
to cats and their owners.
Over the years (some) grooming professionals believe that bathing a cat is inhumane. If
groomers would advocate for the cat and offer preventative bathing and blow-drying to
begin with, we can work toward total avoidance of the coats pelting. Education is the
key to prevention.
27
l
Overgrown nail
Feces impacted
around anus
Scars from tight matts
Training is also vitally important. If a cat is mishandled, the outcome can be devastating.
Education and training make all the difference, it can turn a bad scenario into a
28
productive and hopeful one. It is our job to ensure that this is happening each and every
time. Let’s make the industry better by being truly professional and humane.
Understanding a cat’s reactive nature and disposition, as well as its individual skin and
coat needs, are the first steps in providing humane treatment. Some believe that
bathing a cat is inhumane, particularly if the cat is being disagreeable to the grooming in
any way.
FACT: Cats have greasy skin and coat, which need to be cleaned on a regular
basis
Oil builds up causing the hair to stick together rather than shed. This creates tangles,
matting and potentially a thick pelt. Removal and the act of doing so is painful to the cat,
or highly uncomfortable at best.
29
If the coat is not deshedded properly the dead coat contributes to matting/pelting
process. A dead coat that is packed is the major cause of hairball problems.
Bathing a cat and then not thoroughly drying it will create the same results as washing
and drying a wool sweater. Only, in that case, it is still attached to the cat, thus making
the removal process a painful experience for the cat.
For a safe and low-stress bathing experience.
Have a battle plan sketched out so that you can get your cat in and out of the bath as
quickly as possible.
1. Do advance grooming work. If possible, trim your cat’s nails before a bath to help
reduce the number of scratches your forearms endure. Give the cat a good brushing
before bath time to remove the loose and matted fur.
2. Pick your location. We recommend using a bathtub or sink equipped with a
handheld spray nozzle to assist in the washing and rinsing of your cat.
30
3. Line up the proper tools and equipment. By the bathtub or sink have your supplies
ready:

Place a rubber bath mat in a sink or tub to provide secure footing for your cat.

Shampoo that is appropriate for your cat’s age and coat.

Any medicines that you are applying to the cat.

A washcloth for cleaning your cat’s face and head.

A soft towel to dry your cat.

Clothing that protects your arms from scratches/biting. We really can’t emphasize
this enough!
5. Enlist an assistant cat wrangler. Sometimes two hands isn’t enough when dealing
with four paws so have a friend with you to help soothe or restrain your cat during the
washing or rinsing.
31
The Bath
1. Prepare the water. Before picking up the cat, make sure you have the lukewarm
water running. If you don’t have access to a spray nozzle, fill your sink or tub with 7 to 5
inches of lukewarm water. Test the water with your hand to ensure that it’s not too hot
or cold.
2. Put your cat in the tub. Gently but surely wet the cat’s fur using either with spray
nozzle or your washcloth. Be careful to avoid splashing water in your cat’s eyes, ears,
or nose.

3. Massage the shampoo into your cat’s fur. Gently massage your cat with
shampoo. Work from head to tail, carefully avoid your cat’s eyes, ears, and nose. Use
your washcloth to gently wash your cat’s face and head.
4. Rinse the shampoo out of your kitty’s fur. This is the step in which a spray
nozzle brings a clear advantage as you can easily move it around the cat’s body. If
you’re not using a spray nozzle, use your wet washcloth to rinse the fur (or a large
plastic pitcher or unbreakable cup will work in lieu of a spray hose), refilling the sink
or tub with lukewarm water (or have a rubber tub already filled with warm water).
Until you’ve washed all of the shampoo from your cat’s coat.
With a warm washcloth, clean the
face. Follow up with a fine course
comb or flea comb avoiding the
whiskers.
32
5. Check for any soapy spots you may have missed. Shampoo left in the fur may
cause skin irritation, or your cat may get sick from licking the shampoo off. Do a careful
check under your cat’s chin, its feet, under its abdomen, etc.
6. Dry your cat. Use your soft towel to dry the cat’s fur. If your cat will tolerate it, HV on
a low-heat setting can speed the process.
And then consider giving your pet -- and yourself -- a treat. You both deserve it.
COMBING & CARDING
The coat you see around the main can be plucked or carded for a neater better
balanced appearance
Just a thorough comb out, carded dead coat.
After combing and
carding the face
33
34
Post clipping alopecia and poor hair regrowth in pets
http://www.petmd.com/blogs/dailyvet/2009/december/15-5143
If you dog or cat has had surgery, chances are there was also some hair
removed to make room for the IV catheter, ultrasound, or surgery site. Now, all is
well again, and the only sign of its ever having taken place is the wide swath of
hair loss the clipper blades left behind in their wake … but that was six months
ago.
Six months!
Clearly that’s not right, you say to yourself. Your vet might even shrug his or her
shoulders, in the way we do when more pressing cases are demanding our
attention (like the cat dying in the oxygen cage in the back).
So, no, it’s not a major health concern, but hair loss can be frustrating. I can
relate. This is true even more so when it seems to last forever, and even more so
when no one seems to be taking it seriously.
Hair loss like this is relatively common. So common we even have a name for it:
"post-clipping alopecia."
Some pets are so afflicted their hair may not re-grow for 12-16 months — if ever.
In these cases (I usually jump into it after a couple of months if the owner is
concerned), there may be something truly wrong with the animal.
Hormone (endocrine) related alopecia is a complicating factor in many of these
cases. Disorders like Cushings disease, hypothyroidism and sex hormone
35
alopecia may be playing a role here. And if that’s the case it’s crucial to diagnose
the condition for more than just the benefit of your pet’s lustrous hair/coat.
Once tests have been properly performed to rule out significant contributing
factors, and let’s say they come up negative, you’re stuck with even more
frustration: Dangit! Why isn’t my pet’s fur growing back??
Many vets throw up their hands at this point. No harm no foul, right? If it’s not
causing a big problem why worry about it? After all, that cat in the back needs
more of my brain capacity right now.
I speak from experience. A family member’s arctic breed mix (arctic breeds, with
their heavy coats, are overrepresented among post-clipping alopecia patients)
had gone months without hair regrowth at a clipped site. They kept asking me for
ideas — and I admit I had none after recommending the necessary bloodwork for
endocrine disorders, and adding basic dietary supplements including fatty acids
(which are great for skin and joints).
Finally, I decided to take on the Web, like most of you do. I discovered that
melatonin might make a big difference (thank you Veterinary Information
Network). Administering this supplement three times daily, starting with once
daily dosing in the evenings (because it makes them sleepy, especially at first)
comes highly recommended.
(In case you're interested, the melatonin dose is 3 to 6 mg once to three times
daily (3 for a small dog, 6 for a big one and somewhere in between for a medium
dog.)
Since then, hair regrowth has been progressing nicely. After months and months
of hearing "what should I do?" at last I had something to offer.
Now, you may think my lack of knowledge is astounding (especially those of you
who already had the ready solution to this problem in hand), but even vets can’t
know everything about everything, right?
For post-clipping alopecia, as for many other seemingly minor conditions for
which we cave to our hectic schedules and choose to focus on our "needier"
patients, being the squeaky wheel helps. And begging for help on the Internet
isn’t too shabby an option either, is it?
Dr. Patty Khuly
36
Restraint
HANDLING AND RESTRAINT
There are several effective methods to handle and restrain a cat. Your
choice will depend on whether the individual animal is tranquil and
cooperative or frightened and aggressive.
Out dated methods…
PICKING UP A CAT

As a general rule, it is advisable to reach down and pick up a cat from above. A
face-to-face confrontation might provoke a cat into becoming uncooperative or
aggressive.
Cooperative Cat: Place one hand around the abdomen beneath the chest and
take hold of the front legs so they cross over each other, keeping your index
finger between them for a secure grip. Pick up the cat and snuggle it close to
your body. Cradle the chin with your other hand.
Apprehensive Cat: Reach down and lift the cat by the scruff of its neck. Most cats
go limp--as they did when their mothers carried them as kittens. Support the back
feet with your other hand.
Frightened Cat: Cover the animal with a towel. After a minute or two, as the cat
becomes calmer, slide the rest of the towel underneath and lift up the cat as a
bundle.
Aggressive Cat: Slip a leash or a loop of rope over the cat's head and one front
leg. Then lift the animal by the leash and set it down on a table or into a cat
carrier or box. This method should be used only as a last resort because it is
certain to agitate the cat further.
RESTRAINING FOR TREATMENT

When the cat is cooperative, routine procedures such as grooming, bathing, or
even medicating are best carried out in quiet surroundings with a minimum of
physical restraint. Approach the cat with confidence and handle it gently. Most
cats can be coaxed into accepting the procedure and do not need to be
restrained.
37
Restraining for treatment: Hold
firmly for any treatment that might
prove unpleasant.
~ J. Clawson
Cooperative Cat: Lift the cat onto a smooth surface such as a tabletop. The cat
will be less secure--but still not frightened. Speak in a calm soothing voice until
the cat relaxes. Place one hand around the front of the chest to keep the cat from
moving forward. Use your other hand to administer treatment.
Uncooperative Cat: Depending on the degree of agitation, several methods are
available. If cooperative enough to permit handling, then grasp the cat by the
scruff of the neck and press firmly against the top of the table so that the
cat stretches out. These actions will prevent you from being scratched by the
cat's rear claws.
Picking up the cat: Reach down and
grasp the cat by the scruff of the
neck. Secure the back feet with your
other hand. Note the position of the
fingers, which securely immobilize
the front legs.
~ J. Clawson
38
39
A leash and loop restraint: The
cat is immobilized by drawing
the leash taut. To keep the cat
from being choked, the loop
should include one leg.
~ J. Clawson
A cat bag restraint is useful
for treating the head.
~ J. Clawson
40
A cat muzzle that covers the
eyes and ears has a calming
effect.
A simple restraint can be
made from a piece of
cardboard. It is useful for a
short procedure such as
giving a pill.
~ J. Clawson
41
Another method of restraining
for a short procedure. An
assistant is required.
~ J. Clawson
Transporting an injured or
uncooperative cat. Lift the cat as
described in the text and lower it
into a sack or pillowcase.
~ J. Clawson
When help is available, have your assistant stand behind the cat and place both hands
around the cat's neck or front legs while pressing his or her arms against the cat's sides.
Wrapping a towel or blanket around the cat has a calming effect and is useful for short
procedures such as giving medication. An assistant is required to steady the cat and
hold the wraps in place.
Note: A coat sleeve makes an excellent restraint. The cat will often scoot into it
willingly. Hold the end of the sleeve securely around the cat's neck. Now you can treat
the head or tail.
When procedures take longer and the cat cannot be managed by the above methods,
42
lift the cat straight up from behind by the scruff of the neck with one hand and hold the
rear paws together with the other. Press down firmly on the table so the cat is lying on
its side with body extended. Now have an assistant bind the front legs together with
adhesive tape, taking two or three turns below the elbows. Secure the rear legs by
wrapping with tape above the hocks. Calm the cat by covering its head with a towel or
cloth.
When properly restrained, cats usually settle down and accept the treatment. Once
released, they soon forget the unpleasant experience.
TRANSPORTING AN INJURED CAT
 NO MATTER HOW DOCILE BY BASIC NATURE, ANY CAT IN PAIN MAY
SCRATCH OR BITE. Proper handling will prevent injuries. Furthermore,
struggling can cause a weak or injured cat to tire quickly and can produce further
shock and collapse.
Carrying a cat: Hold the cat firmly
against your body with its rear
feet pressed out behind. Cover the
eyes and ears with your other
hand.
~ J. Clawson
If able to handle, pick up the cat as described for Cooperative Cat, then settle it
over your hip so the rear claws project out behind where they can do no harm.
Press the inside of your elbow and forearm against the cat's side, holding the cat
firmly against your body. Cover the eyes and ears with your other hand.
If the cat is frightened or in pain, take precautions to avoid injury. Lift the cat at
once from behind by the nape of the neck and lower it into a cat carrier or a cloth
bag such as a pillowcase. The material must not be airtight, or the cat will
smother. Once inside with no way to see out, the animal will feel secure and
begin to relax. Transport the cat to the veterinary hospital.
If unable to handle, first throw a towel over the cat, then set a box on top. Raise
the edge of the box and slide the top underneath. The cat is now enclosed and
can be transported.
43
DO NOT EVER













Leave cat unattended on grooming table or tub
Pour ear cleaner directly in the ear canal
Make hissing noises
Force down
Scruff
Use a pinch kennel
Grab while trying to escape
Noose around the neck
Wear open toe shoes
Offer discounts
Rush - The less chaotic atmosphere, the better. A calmer environment produces
a calmer cat.
Go overboard - Overstimulation will make your job harder, not easier.
Take straight scissors to a mat
44
DO






Define who you are
Build a positive relationship with veterinarian, breeder, rescue organization and
local media
Talk to the animal, calmly and softly.
Be aware of the animal’s point of view.
Remember that a threat does not have to be intentional to seem real
Get the cat’s attention before opening the carrier
Recommended Holistic Methods…
Top Toweling Tips
Before you try the technique, here are few tricks that you can do to make toweling
easier:
Never rush or force your cat into a towel. She may scream or even urinate or
defecate out of pure panic.
Position your cat on top of a towel that's on a flat surface. Then open a can of food
and place it on the towel, so that your cat has to lie or sit on the towel to eat her meal.
Loosely wrap the towel over your cat’s back while she eats. Gently pet her back
and let her walk away when she's done eating.
“If your cat is more motivated by toys, dangle a feather wand for her to swat while on
the towel,” noted Dr. Sophia Yin. “The goal is to have your cat develop a positive
association with the towel. It's also important for the owner to be calm and not feel
rushed or frustrated, because the cat can read those emotions.”
There are several toweling-the-cat techniques, but one of the most effective and
versatile options is known as the “scarf wrap.” It gives you access to your cat’s rear end,
front legs and head — all while keeping her snug and calm.
45
Scarf Wrap Your Cat in 5 Steps by Dr. Sophia Yin
Step 1 Start by placing your cat several inches from the front edge of the towel, about a
foot in from one side.
46
Step 2 Wrap the short side of the towel snugly around your cat's neck, like a scarf.
Step 3 Pull the short side of the towel over your cat, so that her entire body is covered,
except for the face.
47
Step 4 Pull the front edge of the towel forward, which will wrap under your cat's neck.
Step 5 Once the towel is wrapped all the way around, grab the other side and pull it
over your cat, making sure that it's snugly in place.
48
The Happy Hoodie
Is a soft, expandable, lightweight, safe, comfortable band that is placed over a pet’s
ears to provide relief and protection from the loud noise and high-pressured air
associated with force drying.
Happy Hoodie's gentle compression creates a swaddling effect which makes it a great
anti-anxiety aid! Most cats who are fearful of the clippers, nail trimming, having their feet
touched, or any situation that causes anxiety, show remarkable improvement with
Happy Hoodie. Since Happy Hoodie works so well in calming distressed cats.
49
SOFT PAWS
The application is simple just fill each nail cap with the adhesive provided, and slide it
on over the nail.
It's that easy!
Invented by a veterinarian, Dr. Toby Wexler, Soft Paws® have been on the market
since 1990. Each Soft Paws take home kit contains everything required to apply the nail
covers at home including easy-to-follow instructions.
This is an amazing product that really works. Most cats tolerate Soft Paws extremely
well. The vast majority of cats don't even know they are wearing them. If you would like
to read some comments from people already using Soft Paws, please visit
our testimonials page.
Soft Paws are extremely safe and non-toxic. The adhesive is the same type of
adhesive used in many veterinary procedures. The caps and dried adhesive are nontoxic and completely safe.
Soft Paws will not interfere with the normal extension and retraction of your cats
nails. Your cat can still scratch with Soft Paws® allowing normal stretching and
scratching behavior to continue -- just no damage will occur.
VET-APPROVED TO STOP PROBLEM SCRATCHING
50
Month Supply
Each Soft Paws kit contains 40 nail caps, 2 tubes of adhesive, 6 applicator tips.
One kit contains enough for 4 front paw applications. Each application lasts
approximately 4-6 weeks; therefore, each kit lasts approximately 4-6 months.
Soft Paws are available in the following sizes:
Kitten, Small, Medium & Large.
And come in a variety of great colors and color combinations!
Poisoning
In addition to obvious dangers such as rodenticides, insecticides, and herbicides, cats
may be poisoned by many chemicals usually considered safe by their human guardians,
because their livers are less effective at some forms of detoxification than those of
many other animals, including humans and dogs. Some of the most common causes of
poisoning in cats are antifreeze and rodent baits. Cats may be particularly sensitive to
environmental pollutants. When a cat has a sudden or prolonged serious illness without
any obvious cause, it has possibly been exposed to a toxin.
Many human medicines should never be given to cats. For example, the
painkiller paracetamol (or acetaminophen, sold as Tylenol and Panadol) is extremely
toxic to cats: even very small doses need immediate treatment and can be
fatal. Even aspirin, which is sometimes used to treat arthritis in cats, is much more toxic
to them than to humans and must be administered cautiously. Similarly, application
of minoxidil (Rogaine) to the skin of cats, either accidentally or by well-meaning
guardians attempting to counter loss of fur, has sometimes been fatal. Essential oils can
be toxic to cats and cases have been reported of serious illnesses caused by tea tree
oil, including flea treatments and shampoos containing it.
Other common household substances that should be used with caution around cats
include mothballs and other naphthalene products. Phenol-based products (e.g. PineSol,Dettol/Lysol or hexachlorophene) are often used for cleaning and disinfecting near
cats' feeding areas or litter boxes, but these can sometimes be fatal. Ethylene glycol,
often used as an automotive antifreeze, is particularly appealing to cats, and as little as
a teaspoonful can be fatal. Some human foods are toxic to cats; for example chocolate
can cause theobromine poisoning, although (unlike dogs) few cats will eat
chocolate. Large amounts of onions or garlic are also poisonous to cats. Many
houseplants are also dangerous, such as Philodendron species and the leaves of the
Easter lily (Lilium longiflorum), which can cause permanent and life-threatening kidney
damage.
(source http://poisonousplants.ansci.cornell.edu/toxcat/toxcat.html)
51
Common Cat Toxicities





Over the counter drugs-aspirin, acetaminophen (e.g., Tylenol), ibuprofen
(NSAIDS)
Methylxanthines-chocolate and caffeine
Ethylene glycol-antifreeze
Metals-lead, zinc and batteries
Pesticides-rodenticides, insecticides, herbicides, molluscacides
There are many ways that our feline companions get poisoned. Sometimes by accident,
and other times by well-meaning adults. Regardless, the most important things to know
are what are the signs and what to do if that situation arises.
Over the Counter Drugs:
The use and variety of analgesic drugs has greatly increased in both human and
veterinary medicine. This has resulted in an increase in acute toxicosis in pets.
Generally, overdoses of over the counter drugs happen either accidentally or may be
due to excessive administration by a well-meaning owner.
Aspirin is the world's most extensively used over-the-counter drug, commonly used as
an anti-inflammatory drug in companion animals. It comes in 80, 325, and 500 mg per
tablet strengths. Cats are especially sensitive to the toxicities of aspirin because they
are deficient in certain types of glucuronosyltransferase, including the one that is
required for aspirin metabolism. The dose recommended in cats for relief of pain and
fever is 10 mg/kg every 48 hours. The toxic dose is 80 to 120 mg/kg for 10 to 12 days.
Signs: Clinical signs of aspirin toxicosis in cats are dose-dependent and may include
CNS depression, anorexia, vomiting, gastric hemorrhage, toxic hepatitis, anemia, bone
marrow hypoplasia, hyperpnoea and hyperpyrexia, hyperthermia, hyperglycemia, and
glycosuria. Early in the syndrome, respiratory alkalosis may develop secondarily to the
salicylate-induced metabolic acidosis. This would cause hyperventilation, which in turn,
stimulates renal secretion of bicarbonate. Thrombocytopenia, anemia, and Heinz bodies
are evident in cats with chronic exposure. Elevated sodium and reduced potassium
concentrations are characteristic but not diagnostic of aspirin toxicosis. Inco-ordination,
loss of balance and falling, hypersensitivity and loss of appetite are also some clinical
signs. Vomiting occurs, sometimes it may be bloodstained.
Treatment: If discovered at home, and is only one tablet, induce vomiting and give water
or milk, then take to the veterinarians. The primary treatment for aspirin over dose is
gastrointestinal decontamination (within four hours of over dose) using emetics,
activated charcoal, and osmotic cathartics. Acid-base imbalance should also be
corrected with a slow infusion of sodium bicarbonate, but must be carefully monitored
and adjusted if pulmonary edema develops. The resulting hyperthermia should be
controlled by external cooling; the use of antipyretic drugs should be avoided. If this is
still not enough, or as in a severe acute case of poisoning, peritoneal dialysis with an
52
osmotic alkaline fluid may be needed. Treatment for the gastrointestinal mucosa would
include histamine receptor antagonists to control the inflammation.
Acetaminophen is another common household analgesic and antipyretic. It comes in
325 to 500 mg strength tablets and is most commonly purchased under the brand name
"Tylenol". It is important to note that acetaminophen is not an anti-inflammatory agent in
cats or dogs. Cats are extremely sensitive to acetaminophen toxicity. The feline toxic
dose is 50 to 100 mg/kg. One regular strength tablet may be toxic to a cat, and a
second one ingested 24 hours later may be lethal.
Signs: Cats gums are a dirty brown color, difficulty breathing, blood in urine, jaundice
and facial swelling would be noticeable signs at home. Clinical signs are cyanosis,
dyspnea, facial and paw edema, hypothermia, and vomiting. Less common signs
include coma, generalized weakness, and death. Normally, methemoglobin is reduced
to hemoglobin by glutathione, but in the presences of a toxic amount of acetaminophen,
glutathione synthesis is reduced, and insufficient free glutathione is available to reduce
methemoglobin and bind the reactive metabolite, consequently, the tissues are starved
for oxygen.
Treatment: 1. If ingestion is recent (less than 2 hours), emesis should be induced and
activated charcoal administered at 2g/kg along with a saline or osmotic cathartic. 2. If
severe cyanosis is present, oxygen therapy should administered, and the animal should
be subject to as little stress as possible. 3. IV administration of acetylcysteine,
140mg/kg/hr for 7 hours. Acetylcysteine is a precursor of glutathione, thereby facilitating
the detoxification of the reactive intermediate. 4. Ascorbic acid, 30 mg/kg orally to
reduce methemoglobinemia to Hb +2 5. Supply supportive care including fluid therapy
for possible metabolic acidosis.
Ibuprofen is a common anti-inflammatory drug for humans. Its action is to block
prostaglandin syntheses. Prostaglandins are active in the gastrointestinal tract by
decreasing acid production, and stimulating mucus and bicarbonate secretion by
epithelial cells. The toxic effect is depends on the dose, number of doses ingested, age
of the cat, and many other factors. Currently, it is known that an acute ingestion of
50mg/kg will produce toxic effect.
Signs: Cats are extremely sensitive to the toxic effects of NSAIDS due to their higher
gastrointestinal absorption rates, longer plasma half-lives, and higher plasma drug
concentrations. At home you may see vomiting, depression, anorexia, and diarrhea.
The clinical signs are gastrointestinal irritation, hemorrhage, and ataxia.
Treatment: Gastric emptying if within two hour of ingestion, followed by administration of
activated charcoal and saline. Careful monitoring for development of gastric ulcers or
hemorrhaging, and mange as necessary. If gastrointestinal irritation occurs, it can be
treated with histamine receptor antagonists such as, cimetidine, rantidine, or
omeprazole. Also sucralfate, an ulcer coating agent, metoclopramide, an antiemetic,
and misoprostol, a prostaglandin analogue, could also be used if the symptoms
indicated need.
53
Methlyzanthines:
Methlyzanthines include caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline. These are found in
coffee, tea, stimulants, medications, and chocolate. Some people do not know the
dangers of feeding their cats chocolate, or the cat may get into it if it is left out where
they can get to it. A lethal dose varies from 100-300 mg/kg.
Signs: Clinical signs develop within one to four hours after ingestion and include
vomiting, diarrhea, polyuria, weakness, hyper excitability, tremors, seizures, and coma.
Secondary pancreatitis may develop in some animals. Death results from seizures or
cardiac arrhythmias.
Treatment: Treatment includes the administration of emetic agents followed by activated
charcoal and a cathartic if exposure was within the last two hours. Since
methylxanthines may undergo enterohepatic recycling, activated charcoal should be
administered every 3-6 hour until cat is asymptomatic. Diazepam or phenobarbital may
be used to control seizures. Fluid therapy may be indicated, but steroids should be
avoided because they reduce urinary excretion of methylxanthines. The prognosis for a
full recovery is generally good with appropriate therapy.
Ethylene glycol (antifreeze):
Antifreeze remains one of the most common causes of poisoning in small animals. Cats
like the smell and taste of it, and it only takes 1.5ml/kg for a lethal dose in cats.
Signs: Triphasic clinical syndrome. Phase 1 signs include ataxia and a drunken
appearance within 1 hour of exposure. Phase 2 is characterized by cardiopulmonary
involvement (eg. cardiac failure) and develops 12-24 hours after ingestion. Phase 3
exhibits renal failure, vomiting, depression, renal pain, enlarged kidneys, crystaluria,
anorexia, hypothermia, coma, and death.
Treatment: If discovered within two hours of ingestion, induce vomiting, followed with
activated charcoal and cathartics. The use of ethanol and bicarbonate is widely
accepted. Ethanol blocks alcohol dehydrogenase activity. This stops the first ratelimiting step of ethylene glycols metabolism to glyceraldehyde by alcohol
dehydrogenase. Glyceraldehyde is metabolized to glycolic acid, the primary metabolite
for metabolic acidosis, and glyoxylic acid. Glyoxylic acid is further metabolized to oxalic
acid, glycine, and formic acid. Fluid diuresis, with furosemide, mannitol, and dopamine,
may be required to correct for partial renal failure and/or pulmonary edema. Peritoneal
dialysis may be used if acute renal failure occurs. A recent treatment of 4methylpyrazole is being widely used; however, it does not work on cats. Animals
exhibiting clinical signs have a poor prognosis because of renal involvement. Renal
tubular regeneration is possible, since tubular basement membranes tend to be spared.
54
Metals:
Lead is not a common toxilogical problem but may occur from ingestion of leadcontaining dust or paint when they groom their contaminated coat.
Signs: Clinical signs of chronic low level poisoning produce gastrointestinal signs, such
as vomiting, abdominal pain, anorexia, diarrhea, and megaesophagus. Acute poisoning
result in CNS signs, such as convulsions, hysteria, ataxia, tremors, and blindness.
Treatment: Treatment should include eliminating the lead source, and limiting further
gastrointestinal absorption. Magnesium or sodium sulfate can be used to precipitate
lead in the intestine and pass through, or chelation therapy may be used with calcium
disodium EDTA. Oral D-penicillamine is also a chelating agent often used after calcium
disodium EDTA. Both to be used only for 1-2 weeks.
Zinc toxicity is becoming a larger problem, and can result from the ingestion of zinc nuts
(transportation crates), or from ingesting pennies minted after 1983.
Signs: Zinc poisoning from elemental zinc results in hemolysis, regenerative anemia, or
renal failure. Hypocupremia may be present, due to the zinc-copper antagonism of
absorption in the gastrointestinal tract. Zinc oxide poisoning can occur from the
ingestion of household products containing zinc oxide such as diaper rash products,
rubber products, cosmetics, batteries, soaps, and printing inks. Acute zinc oxide toxicity
results in severe vomiting, CNS depression, and lethargy.
Treatment: Treatment involves removing the source through emesis or surgery,
supportive therapy, and chelation therapy with calcium disodium EDTA.
Ingestion of button batteries can cause esophageal erosions due to the release of
sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, occurring within 12 hours of ingestion. Also,
the batteries may contain mercuric oxide, lithium, cadmium, and zinc.
Signs: Clinical signs of mercuric toxicity are CNS stimulation, weight loss, anorexia, and
ataxia.
Treatment: Batteries lodged in the esophagus should be removed endoscopically, and
should be followed by chelation therapy with DMSA.
Pesticides:
Pesticides are divided into four groups, rodenticides, molluscacides, insecticides, and
herbicides.
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Rodenticides are further divided by their mode of action. The first class is
anticoagulants, such as Warfarin, Coumateryl, and brodifacoum. This class of
rodenticides acts by interfering with vitamin K epoxide reductase, which is responsible
for converting "inactive" vitamin K to its "active" state. A single ingestion of 5-50mg/kg or
a daily ingestion of 1mg/kg will result in severe toxicosis. Cats are probably not
poisoned directly, but may eat rats or mice, that are slowed down by their ingestion of
the poison.
Signs: The clinical signs appear one to four days after ingestion. Clinical signs are
depression, weakness, staggering, pallor, dyspnea, coughing, and subcutaneous
hematomas, making diagnosis difficult. Hematemesis, epistaxis, melena, ataxia,
paresis, seizures, and sudden death have also been observed.
Treatment: If the exposure has occurred within the last 24 hours, emetics, activated
charcoal, and cathartics are warranted. Once the clotting factors are depleted,
aggressive treatment is necessary, since synthesis of clotting factors takes at least 12
hours. The cat is given IV transfusions of blood or plasma and vitamin K. Administering
a small amount of fatty food will aid in the absorption of vitamin K. The therapy may
continue for up to 28 days depending on the amount of rodenticide ingested.
Another rodenticide is cholecalciferol. In dogs, a lethal dose can be as little as 5mg/kg,
indicating an even lower dose for cats. Cholecalciferol has three mechanisms of action,
they are; 1)increase absorption of calcium and phosphorus from the intestinal tract, 2)
increase osteoclastic reabsorption of bone, and 3) increase renal distal tubular
reabsorption of calcium, all resulting in persistent hypercalcemia and
hyperphosphatemeia.
Signs: Clinical signs appear within 12- 36 hours after ingestion, and they are initially
anorexia, depression, vomiting, muscle weakness, and constipation. As the disease
progresses, hypertension, polyuria, and polydipsia. Mineralization of cardiac and renal
tissues eventually lead to cardiac or renal failure.
Treatment: Treatment, if caught right away is emesis, activated charcoal and cathartics.
However, this is not usually the case. Clinically, furosemide is given to assist in renal
calcium excretion, prednisone aids in decreasing both osteoclastic activity and
gastrointestinal calcium absorption. Calcitonin is injected subcutaneously every two to
three hour to help lower plasma calcium levels, and aluminum hydroxide will help lower
plasma phosphorus levels by preventing gastrointestinal absorption. Long term
treatment may include a low calcium diet until calcium and phosphorus levels have
stabilized.
Another rodenticide is soduim fluoroacetate, "1080." This rodenticide should never be
used around any animals, since there is no specific therapy for this toxicosis.
Signs: Signs start within 4- 10 hours after ingestion, and they are aimless wandering,
confusion, disorientation, unusual vocalization, vomiting, urination, and repeated bowel
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movement, progressing to frothing at the mouth, labored breathing, and convulsions.
Death from respiratory failure ensues within 2 to 12 hours after onset of signs.
Strychnine can be used as a rodenticide or insecticide, but it is most commonly used
maliciously. First signs are apprehension, irritability, tenseness, and stiffness. This
progresses to violent convulsions stimulated by loud noises or by touching the cat.
Death usually occurs from exhaustion or anoxia during a tetanic seizure. The entire
syndrome, if untreated last less than 2 hours. The cat is only marginally savable if it has
not reached the convulsion stage. If not convulsing, induce vomiting immediately, then
transport to your vet for further treatment.
Insecticides are further reduced to several groups such as; amitraz, borates,
carbamates, citrus oils, insect repellents, organochlorine, organophosphates, pyrethrins
and pyrethroids, and rotenines. There are many insecticides, and I will discuss the most
common ones.
Amitraz poisoning occurs from ingestion of a tick collar. A toxic dose falls in the range
of 10-20mg/kg, and occurs within one hour of ingestion.
Signs: Clinical signs occur within one hour of ingestion.
Treatment: Treatment involves emesis, activated charcoal, and cathartics, or physical
retrieval of the collar through endoscopy, and repeated injections of yohimbine to
reverse amitraz's adrenergic agonist effects.
Pyrethrins and pyrethyoids are used to treat ectoparasites of cats, dogs and birds.
However, if used improperly they will cause severe illness. The primary action is to keep
the sodium channel open in excitable cells. The onset of toxicosis occurs within 1 to 4
hours after dermal and subsequent oral exposure.
Signs: The clinical signs are depression, hypersalivation, muscle tremors, vomiting,
ataxia, dypsnea, and anorexia.
Treatment: Treatment includes bathing, and a combination of emesis, and activated
charcoal. Diazepam or methocarbamol after the cat starts to relax to control muscle
tremors and seizures, and atropine to control hypersalivation. Most animal recover
within 24 to 72 hours after exposure. Insect repellent poisoning (deet) has similar signs
and similar treatments.
Organophosphates and carbamates insecticides are found in flea collars and snail
and slug killers, and are potent inhibitors of cholinesterase activity.
Signs: These insecticides produce three effects: 1)muscarinic (salivation, lacrimation,
excessive bronchial secretions, vomiting and diarrhea), 2) nicotinic(muscle tremors, and
respiratory paralysis), and 3) CNS(depression, seizures, miosis, and hyperactivity). The
recovery depends on the resynthesis of the cholinesterase enzyme.
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Treatment: Treatment of organophosphorus or carbamate poisoning begin with lifesaving symptomatic therapy. Atropine sulfate to alleviate respiratory distress, enzyme
reactivators that act on organophosphorus cholinesterase complexes to free the
enzyme and restore function, but only within first 24 hours of initial binding. Pralidoxime
chloride is the widest used reactivator and is given intramuscularly to relieve tremors
and other nicotinic signs. However, overdoses or rapid IV administration can cause
tachycardia, and cardiac arrhythmias as well as depression.
Borate, or boric acid is used as a homemade insecticide. It has a low oral toxicity.
Signs: Vomiting, diarrhea, anorexia, CNS depression, muscle weakness, ataxia, and
possible seizures.
Treatment: The problem with this poisoning is that activated charcoal does not absorb it,
the only way to get it out of the system is through dialysis.
Herbicides are not a serious problem for cats because they would have to be outside
and eat treated grass. If the weed killer was of chlorophenoxy type(2,4-D,MCPA) the
prognosis is good.
Signs: Gastrointestinal and neuromuscular signs within 12 hours of exposure. Transient
anorexia, vomiting, and diarrhea, and with more severe toxicosis, myotonia
(disinclination to move).
Treatment: Treatment is nonspecific and includes decontamination (emesis, activated
charcoal, and cathartics), and maintaining normal fluid and electrolyte balance.
Prognosis is excellent, with clinical signs abating within 72 hours.
However, if the weed killer was dipyridyl type (paraquat, diquat), then the prognosis
is not very good.
Signs: Gut clinical signs appear first, vomiting, abdominal pain, and depression, then 34 weeks later respiratory distress signs occur, such as difficulty breathing, rapid
respiratory rate, resulting in irreversible lung consolidation.
Treatment: Early veterinary treatment is essential. Mineral absorbents such as kaolin or
Fuller's Earth can be used to absorb paraquat from the stomach.
Molluscacides (metaldehyde,"defender"), used in gardens, are dangerous for cats,
since they find them attractive. A lethal dose is 100-360mg/kg.
Signs: Clinical signs develop within three hours of ingestion and include tachycardia,
salivation, tremors, and seizures, hyperthermia, diarrhea, and depression. Death may
occur within 4-24 hours from respiratory failure. Death due to liver failure may occur in
three to four days after ingestion.
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Treatment: First treatment is to induce vomiting, then take the cat immediately to the
veterinarian.(source http://www.catvets.com/cat-owners/caring-for-cats/feline-toxinsand-poisons)
Feline Toxins and Poisons
With their keen sense of curiosity, as well as their dedication to cleanliness, cats can
get into the spirit of spring cleaning just as much as humans. The problem is that their
curiosity can also get them into trouble if they make contact with a toxic substance. In
2012, the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) answered more than 265,000
phone calls about pets exposed to poisonous substances.
Below is a list of common feline toxins:

Human or Veterinary Drugs
Some of the most common drugs are non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs
(NSAIDs), which are some of the most deadly to cats. One tablet can be fatal to
a cat. Cats seem to like the taste of certain antidepressants, which may contain
an alluring smell or flavor in the coating. Due to their altered liver metabolism,
cats have difficulty metabolizing certain drugs. Keep all medications and
prescriptions in a secure location. With any accidental medication ingestion,
seeking immediate veterinary care is imperative.

Permethrin Poisoning
The topical application to cats of flea control products marketed for dogs
containing permethrins constitutes a major portion of feline toxicities reported to
the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. These incidents generally occur as
either deliberate application of the product to a cat by an owner unaware of the
dangers, or by the indirect exposure of cats to those products via such things as
grooming of dogs on whom these products have recently been applied. For more
information, visit the AAFP Permethrin Poisoning and Cats page.

Poisonous Plants
While it might brighten your home to bring some flowers inside during the warmer
months, you might consider opting for the fake kind or make sure you research
which flowers can be toxic to cats. Lilies, for example, can be most deadly to
cats, as ingestion can cause severe, acute kidney failure. Small ingestions of two
or three petals - even the pollen and the water in the vase - can result in
potentially irreversible kidney failure. Seeking immediate veterinary care is
imperative. Keep in mind that there are other plants toxic to cats. Check out
this comprehensive list of toxic and non-toxic plants as provided by the ASPCA.

Insecticides, Chemicals, and Pesticides
Especially dangerous during the warmer months, exposure to insecticides can
occur when a cat walks through an area recently treated with lawn and garden
products, sprays, powders, or granules. Another occurrence of accidental
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exposure occurs when pet owners apply a canine topical flea and tick medication
onto a cat or if a cat snuggles up close to a dog that has been recently treated.
These medications are highly toxic to cats, and can cause severe drooling,
tremors and life-threatening seizures. Always ask your veterinarian about
appropriate use of topical flea medication for your cat.

Household Cleaners
These include the most common household cleaners such as toilet bowl
cleaners, laundry detergents, drain cleaners and carpet cleaners. Be sure to
keep these products out of your cat's reach and wipe away any excess. Consult
a veterinarian immediately if you believe that your cat has been exposed.

Other Poisons
While these are less obvious, other poisons such as glow sticks, jewelry, liquid
potpourri, and antifreeze can be toxic to your cat. For instance, glow sticks and
jewelry contain a bitter tasting liquid that can cause your cat to drool profusely.
Cats are often exposed to potpourri oils by rubbing against leaky bottles or pots
containing the oil, or from spilling the oil containing pots over themselves. Only a
couple of licks or a small amount on the skin can be harmful, especially since
cats are prolific self-groomers. Antifreeze poisoning usually occurs when pets lick
antifreeze drops or spills off the ground. For a cat, as little as a teaspoon can
prove fatal. In any of these cases, a trip to the veterinarian may be necessary.
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Manufacturers that don't list ingredients
(impartial and inconsistent)
Aroma Paws
B3 Why Itch (facial)
Bark 2 Basics (Senproco)
Bio-Groom
Chubbs Bar
EnviroGroom
Earthbath
Faux Paws
Green Groom (Senproco)
Groomer's Edge (Double K Industries)
Ikaria (website)
Kelco (Laube Co.)
Laube Co.
Les Pooches
Matalas
The Natural Groomer (partial listed on website)
Nature's Choice (Laube Co.)
Nature's Specialtes
Paw Earth Naturals (partial listed on website)
Pet Effects
Quadruped (list descriptions of ingredients
Savurfur
Super Coats Spa
Top Performance
Tropiclean
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Manufacturers that do list on bottle, website or
on request:
#1 All Systems
B3 Why Itch (shampoo)
Best Shot
Bobbi Panter (website)
Bungalow Woof (www.bungalowwoofhawaii.com)
Canine Spa Therapies
Cardinal Labs
Chris Christensen
Davis (if not on bottle then on request)
DERMagic
Epi Pet
EQyss
Espana
EZ-Groom
F1R2 (on request)
Groomer's Secret
Groomer's Goop
Hydrosurge- Oster(on website)
Isle of Dogs
K9 Compeition
Mauro
Miracle Coat Premium Pet Shampoo
Nootie
Pet Silk
ReliqPet
Second Nature
Show Seasons
Southbark Blueberry Facial
Stazko
Ultra-MAXX (Best Shot)
Wahl
Warren London
Wholistic Pet
Wondercide
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Symptoms and Types of Ringworm
Symptoms affecting your cats can include a collection of dead skin cells.
This cell collection can lead to: dandruff (scales); poor hair coat with irritated
and reddened skin (erythema); darkened skin (hyperpigmentation); itchiness (pruritus);
and hair loss (alopecia), which may be patchy or circular. The classic sign of circular
hair loss is most commonly seen in cats.
Some other symptoms of Ringworm are raised, rounded, knotty (nodular) lesions
known as granulomatous lesions, or boils. A granuloma is are raised nodular lesions
that frequently ooze (kerions), as a result of ringworm infection. There may also be
inflammation of the folds of skin bordering the nail and other skin and nail folds medically referred to as paronychia.
Even though these are some of the symptoms of ringworm in cats, some of those
infected may be asymptomatic. These types of cats infected with ringworm are
classified as inapparent carriers -- harboring the disease-causing fungus, but presenting
no visible signs of the condition. But make sure to remember even though they do not
look sick, these cats are contagious to humans or other animals.
Causes
Ringworm is by far the most common cause of dermatophytosis in cats. The amounts of
cases vary due your geographical location. Environments that are densely populated
with animals (for example, in a cattery or animal shelter), or where there is poor
nutrition, poor management practices, and lack of adequate quarantineperiod, will also
increase risk of infection.
Immunocompromising diseases, or immunosuppressive medications (factors
that decrease the body's ability to develop a normal immune response) can raise the
likelihood that your cat will be at risk of a fungal infection of the skin, hair, and/or nails,
as well as increase the potential for a more severe infection.
Infection control program zoonotic diseases the possibility for affection is minimized by
the widespread use of variety of disinfectant. Hi Jenny conditions are maintained by the
daily cleaning and disinfecting of areas that are most likely to Harbor disease. The use
of rubber gloves and or other personal protective equipment for activities that have high
risk of infection
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Safety
We must constantly be aware of conditions in all work areas that can produce injuries.
No one is required to work at a job he or she knows is not safe or healthy. The personal
safety and health of each groomer is of primary importance in keeping with the highest
standards. The wearing of protective safety equipment when certain tasks are being
performed is strongly suggested.
Clippers
Although one of your bigger investments it will also be a key component in your
grooming practice. Choose something that is light and comfortable in your hand.
Cordless or not, you must be comfortable with the feel of your equipment in your hands
in order to prevent fatigue




proper use
always be aware of your cord
always have a safe resting place (even if it's your pocket)
avoid dropping clippers
How To Perform Maintenance on Andis clippers
All Andis clippers (AGC and AG2) require the same maintenance. These clippers are
not Maintenance Free, there are some things you must do routinely or the clipper will
fail slowly over time. Andis clippers are NOT direct drive units and have more problems
with them than the direct drive clippers like Oster. There are actually three things you as
the operator must do routinely to keep the Andis clipper running almost Maintenance
Free.
First. Take your blow dryer and blow all the hair from front of the clipper. Not doing this
routinely will permit the hair to plug the airflow to the inside. When the clippers start
running HOT, this means hair has plugged up everything. Keep it clean. AGCís have a
cap you can remove to blow the hair away from the drive assembly. You have to take
the AG2ís apart to do this.
Second. Take the clipper apart and use your blow dryer to blow all the hair from inside.
Pay special attention around the armature and blade drive, problems occur with trapped
hair. Take the switch handle off and make sure there is no hair embedded in the slots, if
there is the switch my not be able to move far enough to engage the second speed..
Look for things that may be loose and tighten them up with a screwdriver.
Third. The blade drive is the heart of the mechanics of the Andis clipper. It will not
function properly if it is weak or has any broken ribs, blades will start to drag and you’ll
think your blades are dull. Note: A bad drive, or hair behind the gear that moves the
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drive, or a weak hinge, or a cracked motor mount from using blades that are coated
from spray coolants can cause rows in the hair when using a 10, 15, or 30 blade.
Checking a blade on someone else’s clipper is NOT a good way to find out if you blade
is working properly. They may have any one of the above mentioned faults and the
blade could act up and seem to be repeating something on their clipper. If a blade
doesn’t work on your clipper, find out why it doesn’t work on your clipper.
Clipper drive
If you are having any of the following issues with your clipper drive you will want to
service it.





If you feel resistance trying to feed the fur through your blade
Unsightly uneven lines
Change cord
If you experience power cutting in and out based on clipper movement
If you drop plug and clippers will not turn on
Blades
HOW TO PROPERLY OIL A CLIPPER BLADE: It doesn’t take that much oil to oil a
blade, most groomers over-oil them. When you over oil, the oil will drain through the
teeth and onto the coat. So they turn to other forms of lubrication like Spray Coolants,
Rem Oil, or WD-40. Blade oil is the best form of lubrication. It stays on the blade to
prevent friction, heat, and pet dander from sticking to the cutting surfaces. Coolants,
WD-40, and Rem Oil evaporate off quickly, and cause friction, heat, and the destruction
of the cutting edges in a short time. These products can also cause health issues if you
don’t wear the recommended safety gear. The list of safety gear you need to wear while
spraying these aerosols are listed on the back of the can. Most contain denatured
alcohol which can be poisonous if inhaled. Oil is safe. OILING: There are 4 points of the
blade to oil, but you only have to do 3 of them once a day. Unless you wash the blade in
blade wash between dogs, all 4 points will need to be re-oiled . Oiling will seem hard at
first, but it will become natural to you the longer to keep oiling. First, push the cutter out
to either side so that spring is lined up with the notch in the cutter. Push it out so you
can see the rear rail on both sides of the spring. This will give you access to oil the first
3 points. To start, put one tiny drop of oil on both rear rails. The first on the rear rail just
outside the left spring as shown, and the other tiny drop on the rear rail outside the right
spring where sliding the cutter over has given you access. Northern Tails Sharpening,
Inc – Mobile, Alabama – Northerntails.com The third tiny drop goes in the grove in the
top of the cutter. If you don’t oil this grove at least once a day, your blade can have a
screeching sound and not cut properly. Without oil, a dry blade guide will make the
cutter hesitate. It may cause the blade to cornrow and other problems. Now push your
cutter back to the center of the blade. You can place the 4th drop on the cutter teeth
while its on the table, or after you put it on the clipper. I oil the teeth while its on the
65
clipper so I can start the clipper up right away and spread the oil across the cutting
surfaces immediately. Oiling the teeth has to be done every time you put a blade on
your clipper. WHY? Because the dog hair your cutting will take the oil off the teeth of the
blade, and it will end up on the floor in the hair you cut off. The first 3 points will not
need any more oil for the day, or if you wash it off in blade wash during the day. While
on the table, or preferably on the clipper, put one tiny drop of oil in the center of the
blade on the cutting surface. DO NOT RUN A BEAD OF OIL ACROSS THE TEETH, IT
WILL SEEP DOWN THROUGH THE TEETH AND GET ON THE COAT. Start the
clipper up, the oil will spread a thin coating across the blade. That’s all you need. As you
can see in the picture, the drop is very small. When it spreads across the blade it will
stay there for quite a while. This keeps heat down, saves your cutting edges for months
not weeks, and will keep pet dander from melting, and creating that orange buildup on
your cutting surface. Every time you put a blade on your clipper, you put that tiny drop of
oil in the middle of the teeth.
Clipper blades






Before very first use you must remove protective coating prior to ever using on a
feline and make certain the blade is dry
Disinfect in between each animal
Oil each time blade is attached to clipper
Avoid dropping
Examine blade immediately if blade was dropped
Recognize dull and or damaged blades
http://www.northerntails.com/images/CLIPPER_BLADE_CARE_BASICS.pdf
Cleaning: You can’t use that many blades during the day - 5 or 6, maybe 8 or 10
depending if you are finishing or shaving down. At the end of the day I would gather
all the blades that have been used and use the high velocity dryer to blow all the hair
from them. Take a pipe cleaner and slide it under the cutter (side to side) and get the
hair from under it as well. Hair sucks up oils and will prevent the blade oil from being
useful. After that, I check the blade for reddish or brown buildup where the teeth
slide back and forth together. Spray Coolants Spray coolants are made by about
every clipper manufacturer out there, and are misused by about every groomer who
uses them. They all contain about the same thing in them: 1,1,1 Trichloroethane
(brake cleaner), glycol, CO2 and water, and very little lubrication (not oil). These
products do exactly what they were manufactured to do and that is cool the blade. If
you read the back of the can (nobody does) it says to use the product occasionally in
a well ventilated area. Some also say to use clipper oil along with the spray coolant.
There is not enough lube in spray coolants to use them as a base for blade care.
You’re not even supposed to spray the teeth of the blade with them, it says so on
most of the cans. The solvent will displace the water and prevent rust (so it says) but
using these products continually will cause damage to your lungs and your blades
eventually. Here is the correct way to use them. 1. Turn your clipper OFF 2. Point
the clipper down toward the floor 3. Spray the BACK of the blade only with one short
burst. 4. Immediately turn the clipper over and oil the cutter teeth with clipper oil. DO
66
NOT SPRAY THE FRONT OF THE BLADE. The solvent will take away your
lubrication causing more heat and making you spray it more often. Spraying the
cutter teeth might cause this - 2 - product to get inside your clipper where it will melt
your carbon brushes and short out your switch and possibly the armature. It will also
weaken the plastic of the blade drives. 5. Turn the clipper back on and continue
grooming. Spraying the teeth of the cutter causes the reddish buildup on the blades.
When the buildup gets thick enough it will cause the blade to drag. Sometimes it will
seize the blade parts together and cause damage to your clipper when you start it up
with that blade on there. We’ll talk about this a lot throughout this paper. Buildup
Buildup comes from a lot of places, mostly the melting of pet dander, oozy stuff from
under mats, and sometimes moisture from the coat you can’t get totally dry. If this
buildup is ignored it will cause the cutter to lift up from the comb part of the blade
and the blade will start to drag. Buildup will also cause the cutter part to slide very
hard back and forth. When that happens many groomers spray it with spray coolants
that are mostly solvent and water. The solvent breaks down the buildup for a few
minutes and gives you that happy feeling of it actually cleaning and lubing the blade.
Groomers also make the mistake of spraying the teeth of the blade with spray
coolants. The directions say to spray the BACK of the blade and oil the teeth. But, in
3 minutes you are spraying it again, and if your blade is this far gone you’re in
trouble. Remember this, how did the blades look when you got them back from the
sharpener? They didn’t have a red or brown, or worse yet, a black buildup on them
did they? No, you put it there, you need to control it. Buildup damages clippers
Years ago, if you can remember back that far, clippers were made of good stuff, they
were made to last a lifetime. Today, they are made to break down and the
manufacturer will sell you a part to fix it. One way of controlling the breakdowns is to
control the one thing that causes clipper failure most of the time...dirty blades. When
the blades are tight from buildup they cause parts of the clipper to fail. On the Andis,
the drive, the front motor mount and the hinge go first. When they do the drive
system becomes loose and this can cause "corn rowing" with a #10-15-30, or a #9
blade, and the blades will drag 75% of the time. When loose, the cutter hesitates on
the side before coming back to the other, this causes dragging. If the parts were
made better they could take more abuse but they aren’t. Osters are the same way,
the hinge and the fiber gear (which used to be metal) will fail. This will cause the
same effects with the blades, corn rowing and dragging. When the fiber gear finally
fails for good, there will be a groove cut right in the middle of it where the worm gear
butts up against it. Every other part in the Oster head costs about $2.00, this fiber
gear costs $10.00. See the connection on the spare parts racket they have going? I
could be wrong though. - 3 - How to clean off the buildup Forget spray coolants, they
don’t clean and they don’t lube. They are a quick fix to keep you going and I use
them myself, BUT, each night I clean off the buildup they sometimes create on the
blades. Not cleaning daily will give the buildup a chance to go from a semi hard
substance that can be removed, to a concrete-like film that may not be able to be
cleaned off. If this is the case, the blade will have to be sharpened. H-42 is one of
the best cleaners around, it was made just to clean this film off clipper blades. It can
be used as a dip (stick a running blade in it). Some have used an ultrasonic cleaner
and put a whole batch of blades in the unit, covered them with H42, and turned it on
for a while. H-42 not only cleans this buildup off, but will lube the blade as well. It will
67
not cool. I always put a drop of oil on after H-42 anyways to make sure its lubed real
good. If the buildup is too tough and H-42 can’t get it off try the following products
first, THEN clean in H42 to get these solvents off. Try "Goof Off",WD-40, brake
cleaner (use outside), and believe it or not, charcoal starter. You can use kerosene,
but that smell will make you sick after a while. What about Oster blade wash? If you
want to spend 6 bucks for a half pint of Blade Wash, go ahead, or spend $1.99 for a
quart of charcoal starter, same difference to me. Get the H-42, you'll never regret it.
This is my opinion and it works, I’ve had groomers go 13 months without blade
sharpening. They take the time to clean the blades. If you don’t clean your blades,
your sharpener will be glad to for you! Lubrication: Lubrication is essential to the
blades, they can never be allowed to go dry. Every time hair builds up in the blade it
scoops up badly needed oil and removes it when you clean them out with your HV.
How much oil should one use? With today’s new clippers having higher speeds this
produces more heat. Heat can be controlled by changing blades while keeping the
oil on them and never letting them get dry. If the blade gets dry it will cause more
friction and more heat. So, the more you keep a good comfortable amount of oil on
your blades, the less chance of heat causing red buildup and the cutting surfaces
going dull quickly. - 4 - Rusty Blades What about rusty blades? They are ok and you
can get sanding sponges that will let you rub the rust off. If a blade is discolored it
usually means it is oxidized pretty deeply, and this deep oxidation isn’t going to hurt
the cutting surfaces. If the cutting surfaces are rusted and pitted the blade is junk.
What causes the rust? Rust comes bare metal (loss of plating) and no protection.
The protection is oil or H-42. The plating loss comes from using the blade, dog hair
is very rough and will take the plating off between the teeth of the comb, that’s where
rust starts. Sometimes you can scrape the rust off but using the blade will get rid of
the rust between the teeth. Spray coolants have a high grade solvent in them and
can cause rust to start from little pits in the metal, usually on the backs of the blades
that look like spots. Clean these areas off with a sanding sponge and keep the blade
lubed.
Drag




Setting speed to high and swiping across coat quickly will leave uneven lines
Hair or dirt buildup can cause lines each time you swipe at coat
Tension from use can cause lines across your last swipes on the coat
Change clipper drive
68
Cleaning and sanitation of tools

Should be done after each feline
Bathing area and tub

Kennels

69
Anatomy
Domestic cats are similar in size to the other members of the genus Felis, typically
weighing between 4 and 5 kg (9 and 10 lb). Some breeds, however, such as the Maine
Coon, can occasionally exceed 11 kg (24 lb). Conversely, very small cats, less than
2 kg (4 lb), have been reported. The world record for the largest cat is 21 kg (50 lb).The
smallest adult cat ever officially recorded weighed around 1 kg (2 lb). Feral cats tend to
be lighter as they have more limited access to food than house cats. In the Boston area,
the average feral adult male will weigh 4 kg (9 lb) and average feral female 3 kg
(7 lb). Cats average about 23–25 cm (9–10 in) in height and 46 cm (18 in) in head/body
length (males being larger than females), with tails averaging 30 cm (12 in) in length.
Cats have seven cervical vertebrae, as do almost all mammals; 13 thoracic
vertebrae (humans have 12); seven lumbar (humans have five); three sacral
vertebrae like most mammals (humans have five); and a variable number of caudal
vertebrae in the tail (humans retain three to five caudal vertebrae, fused into an
internal coccyx). The extra lumbar and thoracic vertebrae account for the cat's spinal
mobility and flexibility. Attached to the spine are 13 ribs, the shoulder, and
the pelvis. Unlike human arms, cat forelimbs are attached to the shoulder by freefloating clavicle bones which allow them to pass their body through any space into
which they can fit their head.
The cat skull is unusual among mammals in having very large eye sockets and a
powerful and specialized jaw. Within the jaw, cats have teeth adapted for killing prey
and tearing meat. When it overpowers its prey, a cat delivers a lethal neck bite with its
two long canine teeth, inserting them between two of the prey's vertebrae and severing
its spinal cord, causing irreversible paralysis and death. Compared to other felines,
domestic cats have narrowly spaced canine teeth, which is an adaptation to their
preferred prey of small rodents, which have small vertebrae. The premolar and
70
first molar together compose the carnassial pair on each side of the mouth, which
efficiently shears meat into small pieces, like a pair of scissors. These are vital in
feeding, since cats' small molars cannot chew food effectively, and cats are largely
incapable of mastication. Though cats tend to have better teeth than most humans, with
decay generally less likely because of a thicker protective layer of enamel, less
damaging saliva, less retention of food particles between teeth, and a diet mostly devoid
of sugar, they are nonetheless subject to occasional tooth loss and infection.
Cats, like dogs, are digitigrades. They walk directly on their toes, with the bones of their
feet making up the lower part of the visible leg. Cats are capable of walking very
precisely, because like all felines, they directly register; that is, they place each hind
paw (almost) directly in the print of the corresponding fore paw, minimizing noise and
visible tracks. This also provides sure footing for their hind paws when they navigate
rough terrain. Unlike most mammals, when cats walk, they use a "pacing" gait; that is,
they move the two legs on one side of the body before the legs on the other side. This
trait is shared with camels and giraffes. As a walk speeds up into a trot, a cat's gait
changes to be a "diagonal" gait, similar to that of most other mammals (and many other
land animals, such as lizards): the diagonally opposite hind and fore legs move
simultaneously.
Like almost all members of the Felidae, cats have protractable and retractable claws. In
their normal, relaxed position, the claws are sheathed with the skin and fur around the
paw's toe pads. This keeps the claws sharp by preventing wear from contact with the
ground and allows the silent stalking of prey. The claws on the fore feet are typically
sharper than those on the hind feet. Cats can voluntarily extend their claws on one or
more paws. They may extend their claws in hunting or self-defense, climbing, kneading,
or for extra traction on soft surfaces. Most cats have five claws on their front paws, and
four on their rear paws. The fifth front claw (the dewclaw) is proximal to the other claws.
More proximally is a protrusion which appears to be a sixth "finger". This special feature
of the front paws, on the inside of the wrists, is the carpal pad, also found on the paws
of big cats and dogs. It has no function in normal walking, but is thought to be an antiskidding device used while jumping. Some breeds of cats are prone
to polydactyly (extra toes and claws). These are particularly common along the
northeast coast of North America.
Physiology
Normal physiological values
Body temperature 38.6 °C (101.5 °F)
Heart rate
120–140 beats per minute
Breathing rate
16–40 breaths per minute
71
Thermograph of a cat
Cats are familiar and easily kept animals, and their physiology has been particularly well
studied; it generally resembles those of other carnivorous mammals, but displays
several unusual features probably attributable to cats' descent from desert-dwelling
species. For instance, cats are able to tolerate quite high temperatures: Humans
generally start to feel uncomfortable when their skin temperature passes about 38 °C
(100 °F), but cats show no discomfort until their skin reaches around 52 °C
(126 °F),:and can tolerate temperatures of up to 56 °C (133 °F) if they have access to
water.
Cats conserve heat by reducing the flow of blood to their skin and lose heat by
evaporation through their mouths. Cats have minimal ability to sweat, with glands
located primarily in their paw pads, and pant for heat relief only at very high
temperatures (but may also pant when stressed). A cat's body temperature does not
vary throughout the day; this is part of cats' general lack of circadian rhythms and may
reflect their tendency to be active both during the day and at night. Cats' feces are
comparatively dry and their urine is highly concentrated, both of which are adaptations
to allow cats to retain as much water as possible. Their kidneys are so efficient, they
can survive on a diet consisting only of meat, with no additional water, and can even
rehydrate by drinking seawater.
Cats are obligate carnivores: their physiology has evolved to efficiently process meat,
and they have difficulty digesting plant matter. In contrast to omnivores such as rats,
which only require about 4% protein in their diet, about 20% of a cat's diet must be
protein. Cats are unusually dependent on a constant supply of the amino acid arginine,
and a diet lacking arginine causes marked weight loss and can be rapidly fatal. Another
unusual feature is that the cat cannot produce taurine, with taurine deficiency
causing macular degeneration, wherein the cat's retina slowly degenerates, causing
irreversible blindness.
A cat's gastrointestinal tract is adapted to meat eating, being much shorter than that of
omnivores and having low levels of several of the digestive enzymes needed to digest
carbohydrates. These traits severely limit the cat's ability to digest and use plant-derived
nutrients, as well as certain fatty acids. Despite the cat's meat-oriented physiology,
several vegetarian or vegan cat foods have been marketed that are supplemented
with chemically synthesized taurine and other nutrients, in attempts to produce a
complete diet. However, some of these products still fail to provide all the nutrients cats
72
require,and diets containing no animal products pose the risk of causing severe
nutritional deficiencies.
Cats do eat grass occasionally. A proposed explanation is that cats use grass as a
source of folic acid. Another proposed explanation is that it is used to supply dietary
fiber.
Senses
A close up of a cat’s eye
Reflection of camera flash from
the tapetum lucidum
Cats have excellent night vision and can see at only one-sixth the light level required for
human vision. This is partly the result of cat eyes having a tapetum lucidum, which
reflects any light that passes through the retina back into the eye, thereby increasing the
eye's sensitivity to dim light. Another adaptation to dim light is the large pupils of cats'
eyes. Unlike some big cats, such as tigers, domestic cats have slit pupils. These slit
pupils can focus bright light without chromatic aberration, and are needed since the
domestic cat's pupils are much larger, relative to their eyes, than the pupils of the big
cats. At low light levels a cat's pupils will expand to cover most of the exposed surface
of its eyes. However, domestic cats have rather poor color vision and (like most non
primate mammals) have only two types of cones, optimized for sensitivity to blue and
yellowish green; they have limited ability to distinguish between red and green. A 1993
paper reported a response to middle wavelengths from a system other than
the rods which might be due to a third type of cone. However, this appears to be an
adaptation to low light levels rather than representing true trichromatic vision.
73
Cats have excellent hearing and can detect an extremely broad range of frequencies.
They can hear higher-pitched sounds than either dogs or humans, detecting
frequencies from 55 Hz to 79,000 Hz, a range of 10.5 octaves, while humans and dogs
both have ranges of about 9 octaves. Cats can hear ultrasound, which is important in
hunting because many species of rodents make ultrasonic calls. However, they do not
communicate using ultrasound like rodents do. Cats' hearing is also sensitive and
among the best of any mammal, being most acute in the range of 500 Hz to
32 kHz. This sensitivity is further enhanced by the cat's large movable outer ears
(their pinnae), which both amplify sounds and help detect the direction of a noise.
Cats’ whiskers are highly
sensitive to touch
Cats have an acute sense of smell, due in part to their well-developed olfactory
bulb and a large surface of olfactory mucosa, about 5.8 cm2 (0.90 in2) in area, which is
about twice that of humans. Cats are sensitive to pheromones such as 3-mercapto-3methylbutan-1-ol, which they use to communicate through urine spraying and marking
with scent glands. Many cats also respond strongly to plants that contain nepetalactone,
especially catnip, as they can detect that substance at less than one part per
billion. About 70—80% of cats are affected by nepetalactone. This response is also
produced by other plants, such as silver vine (Actinidia polygama) and the
herb valerian; it may be caused by the smell of these plants mimicking a pheromone
and stimulating cats' social or sexual behaviors.
Cats have relatively few taste buds compared to humans (470 or so versus more than
9,000 on the human tongue). Domestic and wild cats share a gene mutation that keeps
their sweet taste buds from binding to sugary molecules, leaving them with no ability to
taste sweetness. Their taste buds instead respond to amino acids, bitter tastes, and
acids. Cats and many other animals have a Jacobson's organ located in their mouths
that allows them to taste-smell certain aromas in a way which humans have no
experience of. Cats also have a distinct temperature preference for their food, preferring
food with a temperature around 100 °F (38 °C) which is similar to that of a fresh kill and
routinely rejecting food presented cold or refrigerated (which would signal to the cat that
the "prey" item is long dead and therefore possibly toxic/ decomposing).
To aid with navigation and sensation, cats have dozens of movable whiskers
(vibrissae) over their body, especially their faces. These provide information on the
width of gaps and on the location of objects in the dark, both by touching objects directly
and by sensing air currents; they also trigger protective blink reflexes to protect the eyes
from damage.
74
Most breeds of cat have a noted fondness for settling in high places, or perching. In the
wild, a higher place may serve as a concealed site from which to hunt; domestic cats
may strike prey by pouncing from a perch such as a tree branch, as does a leopard.
Another possible explanation is that height gives the cat a better observation point,
allowing it to survey its territory. During a fall from a high place, a cat can reflexively
twist its body and right itself using its acute sense of balance and flexibility. This is
known as the cat righting reflex. An individual cat always rights itself in the same way,
provided it has the time to do so, during a fall. The height required for this to occur is
around 90 cm (3.0 ft). Cats without a tail (e.g. Manx cats) also have this ability, since a
cat mostly moves its hind legs and relies on conservation of angular momentum to set
up for landing, and the tail is little used for this feat.
Grooming
The hooked papillae on a cat’s
tongue act like a hairbrush to help
clean and detangle fur.
Cats are known for spending considerable amounts of time licking their coat to keep it
clean. The cat's tongue has backwards-facing spines about 500 μm long, which are
called papillae. These contain keratin which makes them rigid so the papillae act like a
hairbrush. Some cats, particularly longhaired cats, occasionally regurgitate hairballs of
fur that have collected in their stomachs from grooming. These clumps of fur are usually
sausage-shaped and about 2–3 cm (0.8–1.2 in) long. Hairballs can be prevented with
remedies that ease elimination of the hair through the gut, as well as regular grooming
of the coat with a comb or stiff brush. Some cats can develop a compulsive behavior
known as psychogenic alopecia, or excessive grooming.
75

Grooming Guidelines Platinum Package

Transcription

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