Tuscany Travel Guide

Florence
Audi
Rome
Tuscany
Travel Guide
Carrara
I ta lY
FlorenCE/Mugello
Viareggio
Prato
Lucca
Florence
Pisa
chianti
Livorno
Arezzo
Tu s c a n y
Siena
Cortona
Siena/Le crete
2012
Piombino
Elba
Pienza
Grosseto
TUSCANY
Tips
from the experts of
the travel magazine
photo
|
tom sólo/fröhlich management
illustration
|
k a r t e n z u h a u f. d e
No matter which route you take, the vista is always
­breathtaking. We have compiled some culinary tips and
scenic places to stay in the Florence/Mugello, Chianti and
Siena/Le Crete regions. And there are two selected routes
waiting to be experienced.
exclusively for the
Audi
2011 Annual Report
Florence
SS 222
Greve
Panzano
Starting at autostrada exit Firenze Sud,
ending in Siena.
Castellina
SS 222
Strada Statale SS 222 takes
you through the heart of
the Chianti region from
Florence to Siena. This is
where the famous Chianti
Classico is grown. Its symbol is the Gallo Nero, the
Black Rooster, also to be
found on signposts by the
wayside. Vineyard-covered
hills line the road as it goes
from one wine village to
the next. Stop along the
way in ­Greve, birthplace
of seafarer Verrazzano. Its
glorious triangular piazza
is lined with arcade houses
with terraces where cafés
and restaurants have set
up their tables. Onward
through Panzano and Castellina, past the hamlet of
Fonterutoli – so many illus­
trious names of some of
the best Chianti producers.
A few more miles, and the
towers of Siena, where the
tour ends, come into view in
the distance.
Siena
Starting in Montepulciano, ending in Montalcino.
Montepulciano is the wine town which gave its name to
the elegant red wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. From
there, take SS 146, one of the most beautiful roads in
Tuscany: gently sweeping curves, hills topped by an estate
or a castle. For a stop along the way, consider Pienza, built
by Pope Pius II in the 15th century as an “ideal city.” The
So beautiful.
SR 2
Montepulciano
SS 146
SS 146
Montalcino
|
t o m s ó l o / f rö h l i c h m a n a g e m e n t (2)
Buonconvento
photos
Drives of a
lifetime
route continues past San Quirico d’Orcia and onto Strada
Regionale SR 2 heading to Buonconvento. A few miles on,
turn off the highway onto a country road to Montalcino. Its
fortress “La Fortezza” (which today houses an enoteca with
restaurant and wine shop) rises up from a rock cliff.
San Quirico
d’Orcia
Pienza
Florence/Mugello
region
Da Delfina
Il Salviatino
(Florence/Fiesole)
Looking for the place for
your wedding proposal?
Here it is! This is where
Florence is so beautiful
you might think you’re at
the movies: Brunelleschi’s
famous dome, Palazzo
Vecchio’s slender ­tower,
San ­Miniato al Monte
­church and its green-andwhite marble façade –
Florence’s entire glory
seems close enough to
touch. The hills around
Tuscany’s capital are home
to many luxury hotels,
but almost none beats
“Il ­Salviatino” when it
comes to vistas. Until
recently, this renaissance
palazzo at the foot of the
hills of Fiesole was a study
­center ­belonging to the
­elite ­Stanford University.
Now, no more need for a
scholar­ship to stay there;
a well-padded wallet will
secure you a seat on the
elegant terrace shaded by
white sun sails and some
great food. Chef Carmine
Calò is well aware that his
guests come for a relaxed
and romantic evening al
fresco with the view playing
a starring role. He ­serves
simple, yet elabor­ate
­dishes. Do look at your plate
once in a while for a great
view of a differ­ent kind!
Il Salviatino,
Via del Salviatino 21,
Florence/Fiesole,
phone 055-9041111,
salviatino.com
The summer terrace is open
from mid-May to mid-Oct.,
the restaurant is open in
winter. Main dishes from
EUR 30.
so, glasses are in most
cases filled exactly to the
measuring mark, and not a
millimeter higher. At prices
of 20 euros or 16 euros
respectively for a glass, you
would expect a bit of Italian
generosity, especially since
a ten percent service charge
will be automatically added
to your bill.
Cantinetta Antinori,
Piazza degli Antinori 3,
Florence,
phone 055-292234,
cantinetta-antinori.com
Closed Sat., Sun., 3 weeks
in Aug.; main dishes from
EUR 24.
Cantinetta Antinori
(Florence)
Il Santo Bevitore
(Florence)
Always a pleasure: lunch or
dinner in the Antinori wine
dynasty’s fine little restau­
r­ant housed in the front
part of the family ­palazzo.
Order classics such as
pappardelle with wild boar
ragú and filet of beef with
roast potatoes and some
fine wines to go with them.
Happily, Antinori stars
such as “Guado al Tasso” or
“Tignanello” are available
by the glass. Less ­happily
A young, simple inn just
the way people like it in
Florence’s trendy Oltrarno
quarter on the Arno’s left
bank. Here in the heart of
Florence, enjoy a glass of
wine, a salad or a set menu
beneath an impressive
vaulted ceiling. The pasta
is home-made, and risotto
Cantinetta
Antinori
Cibreo
j o h n r i z z o (2); p r (2); s t e f a n o s c a t a (2)
Tradition in the shadows of
the Medici. On your plate:
onion tartlets and ham with
figs. On the side: a breath­
taking view of La Ferdinanda, the famous Medici
villa directly oppos­ite. This
has long been part of the
classic sightseeing program for northern Tuscany.
So which one makes “Da
Delfina” more popular?
Hard to say. The restaurant
has been an in­stitution for
decades. Delfina Cioni, who
gave it its name, catered
to hunting parties from La
Ferdinanda and managed
this country inn just outside
Florence in the 1950s.
Today, Delfina’s son Carlo
runs the restaur­ant, with his
nephew Riccardo minding
the stove. But the recipes
hail back to Delfina. Cuisine
is old-­fashioned in the best
pos­sible sense: “We braise
Il Salviatino
|
Da Delfina (Artimino)
meat on the bone, because
it has more taste that way,”
says Carlo Cioni. The steak
– bistecca alla ­fiorentina –
which is of course tre dita
(three fingers thick), is
grilled on an open fire,
chickens rotate on a spit,
their spicy scent mingling
with that of herbs from the
restaurant’s own garden.
This garden is Carlo’s trea­
sure. Here, artichokes, cime
di rapa – beet sprouts almost unknown in our parts –
and other vegetables thrive
and grow. The house wine, a
red Carmignano, is pressed
from the restaurant’s own
grapes in the local vintner
cooperative and poured
from straw-wrapped fiaschi
– this is Tuscany, after all.
Da Delfina, Via della
Chiesa 1, Artimino,
phone 055-8718074,
dadelfina.it
Closed lunchtime Mon.,
Tue., 2 weeks from late
Jan. to Feb. and 10 days
in 2nd half of Aug.; main
dishes from EUR 15.
photos
RESTAURANTS
Il Santo Bevitore
is also available most of
the time on the seasonal
menu. There are fish and
meat dishes and a fine
selection of cheese, with
ham and salami finely cut
on a Berkel meat slicer,
all rounded out by a small
selection of ­desserts. “The
Holy ­Drinker,” as the name
“Il Santo Bevitore” trans­
lates, offers an outstanding
choice of bottled wines –
not just from Tuscany.
Il Santo Bevitore,
Via Santo Spirito 66r,
Florence,
phone 055-211264,
ilsantobevitore.com
Closed Sun. at lunchtime.
Cibreo
(Florence)
Alle Murate
(Florence)
Among the best ­traditional
cuisine in the city – the
regional dishes are prepared
to perfection! A laid-back,
elegant ambience, good
wine selection, steep prices.
For the same food for less
money, try the trattoria of
the same name next door
(Via de’Macci 122r).
Cibreo, Via Andrea del
Verrocchio 8r,
Florence,
phone 055-2341100
Closed Sun., Mon. and
in Aug.
A fixture of fine Floren­
tine cuisine for years, this
elegant restaurant (wooden
floors, subdued light, classy
china, pleasant service) is
about refined regional cook­
ing: Tagliatelle with Cinta
Senese ragú are flavored
with cinnamon; grilled lamb
is served along with leeks
and capers.
Alle Murate, Via del
Proconsolo 16r, Florence,
phone 055-240618,
allemurate.it
Closed Mon. and during
Christmas week.
Alle Murate
Florence/Mugello
region
Palazzo Vecchietti
(Florence)
Many hotels purport to
offer their guests a home
away from home. Even
those who don’t go on
Palazzo Vecchietti
“­ Palazzo ­Vecchietti.” You
can have morning tea in
your pajamas behind the
thick 15th century pal­
ace walls, and after your
shopping trip you can
enjoy your very own private
espresso break ­there. And
this is what makes this
intimate hotel opposite
Palazzo Strozzi a temporary
home right in the middle
of ­Florence – with­out the
advertising blurb.
Palazzo Vecchietti,
Via degli Strozzi 4,
Florence,
phone 055-2302802,
palazzovecchietti.com
Doubles from EUR 324
incl. breakfast; 14 rooms,
suites and apartments.
Casa Howard
Guest Houses
(Florence)
Villa le Maschere
It’s the reincarnation of
old world B&Bs with the
reception one floor up from
street level, but this is a hip
guesthouse and a welcome
contrast to traditional
hotels. As they previously
did in Rome, Briton ­Jenifer
Howard Forneris and her
husband Massimiliano
­Leonardi di Casalino real­
ized their idea of upmarket
hospitality in a palazzo right
in the middle of Florence.
Behind the highly ­polished
entrance door with its
­massive brass platings
awaits a guesthouse
with a distinctly private
­atmosphere, emphati­
cally eschewing cool
contempo­rary design. An
interior stairway leads
to three floors of lav­
ishly furnished rooms.
Casa Howard
­Jenifer ­Howard ­Forneris
teamed up with Turin-based
interior designer Fabrizio
Cuniberto to plan every last
detail. The “Fireplace” room
promises cozy hours with
a marble fireplace, inlaid
flooring and a grand black
sofa. In the “Hidden Room”
a red salon conceals the
red bedroom. The “Drawing
Room” retains its antique
flooring; dark brown walls,
thick drapes, a plush sofa
p r (2); c a s a h o w a rd .c o m ; ro c c o f o r t e h o t e l s
To date, Milva Fusi has
styled half a dozen hotels.
But “Villa Le Maschere” was
a challenge even for this designer and hotel owner from
Prato, involving sensitive refurbishment and modernization of 7,000 square meters
of living space. Across the
façade, 22 sandstone masks
smile, grimace and ­glower,
hence the villa’s name
“Le Maschere.” The property looking out across Lake
Bilancino was inhabited by
the Gerini family until 1963,
and then abandoned. In the
1960s, Milva Fusi’s brother
Riccardo bought the villa
from the Gerinis and started
renovating it in 2003. Today,
some of the rooms feature
vac­ation to feel as if they
were at home do value
some homely conveniences,
such as the classy kitchen­
ettes in the rooms at the
|
Villa le Maschere
(Barberino di
Mugello)
an ostentatious rococo look,
while others have the cool
style of a loft. The lobby and
the corridors exude glamour
without coldness. To counter
any gaudiness, Milva Fusi
designed her own urbanely
chic furniture for the hotel.
Shock colors versus gold,
plexiglass versus wood
paneling.
Villa le Maschere,
Via Nazionale 75,
Barberino di Mugello,
phone 055-847432,
villalemaschere.it
Doubles from EUR 189
incl. breakfast; 64 rooms/
suites; 3 restaurants; spa,
pools, park.
photos
HOTELS
Hotel Savoy
and an out­size fauteuil all
exude the decadent charm
of the 19th ­century. The
“Play Room” features an antechamber with a climbing
wall and a pile of children’s
books in the bedroom –
­handed down by the land­
lord himself, who grew up
with them. “Nothing is fake
here, every­thing is real;
works of art and objects
are family heirlooms,” says
­Massimiliano Leonardi
di Casalino. Tip: The bar
opposite serves delicious
pastries, panini and dolci.
Casa Howard Guest
Houses, Via della
Scala 18, Florence,
phone 06-69924555,
casahoward.it
Doubles from EUR 160;
1 apartment, 2 suites,
10 rooms; Hammam
(max. 5 persons); library,
music and TV room (for
use only during owners’
absence); free Internet
access, free fixed-line
­domestic calls in Italy.
Hotel Savoy
(Florence)
Famous musicians have
­declared this five-star
­establishment to be their
favorite hotel, and we
can understand why. The
location? Fronting Piazza
Repubblica, the heart of
the city, and its back to the
c­ athedral and Campanile, its
landmarks. The furniture?
Timelessly elegant – sofas
and chairs covered with ecru
linen, sand-colored walls,
oak flooring, marble baths
and pale green or Siena
brown curtains. The service?
As ­discreet and quick as a
British private club – this
is the kind of place where
the concierge is guaranteed
never to forget your name
or your request for a special
after-shave or a reserva­
tion in the restaurant. The
details? Enchanting mosaics
above the bathtub, made
from little marble pieces
in brown, green, white and
grey; Modigliani prints on
the walls; delicate damask
bedwear; drawers you only
need to touch lightly to
make them shut with a
satisfying “click”; lighting
that creates a pleasant
­atmosphere and still is
bright exactly where you
need it. Perhaps we, too,
should try writing a few hits
so that we can afford this
kind of luxury on a regular
basis.
Hotel Savoy, Piazza della
Repubblica 7,
Florence,
phone 055-27351,
hotelsavoy.it
Doubles from EUR 400,
special online offers, open
all year; 102 rooms, incl.
14 suites; bar, restaurant,
garage (EUR 50 per day).
Chianti
region
La Bottega
(Radda, Volpaia)
Blonde hair, a powerful
voice, the temperament of
La Locanda
di Pietracupa
berry trees their favorite
place. The view of vineyards
and olive groves is breath­
taking. Word has spread:
La Bottega
The terrace’s simple tables
seat Italian families next to
German vacationers, lovers
next to old couples, dolledup ladies from Rome next
to vociferous New ­Yorkers –
and all of them swear by
Carla Barucci’s authentic
and surprisingly afford­
able Tuscan cuisine. Market
forces may rule supreme in
the golden triangle be­
tween Castellina, Greve and
Gaiole, but “La Bottega”
makes a virtue of modesty.
Where else will you be
served a plate of crostini for
3.30 euros, pasta with meat
ragú for 7 euros or truffled
rabbit for 9.50 euros? “I’d
rather see happy faces
then get rich quickly,” says
Carla. Her mother, “Mamma
Gina,” took over the former
locanda, built in 1703 on
the pilgrim route between
Rome and Florence, more
than 30 years ago. It has
been serving time-honored
family cuisine ever since:
ribollita, a hearty ­vegetable
soup with bread slices, and
home-made tagliatelle with
porcini. Regulars love pici
j o h n r i z z o (2); s t e f a n o s c a t a ; m a u r o p u c c i n i / w w w. l a b r e n a . i t ; p r ; s a n d r o m i c h a h e l l e s
“Who wants another Tuscan
trattoria in a rustic farmhouse? We’d rather do
something modern,” says
Monica Talluri. Her regulars
gladly forego traditional
rich food for La Locanda’s
light, innovative cuisine.
­Tomato variations are an
ideal appetizer on hot
summer days. The saffron risotto with porcini
is creamy, yet firm; goat’s
cheese sformato with honey
and ginger is light and
tasty. The female chefs are
rightly proud of their homemade pasta, which they
serve with mashed peas.
Everything is just a little bit
more refined than in your
classic village trattoria, as
are the waiters in their long
black aprons covering dark
gray shirts and their black
neckties, and the tables
set with white china and
thin-walled wine glasses.
The locanda is on a quiet
street and offers a pretty
terrace beneath linden
trees and a romantic view of
San Donato village, which is
bathed in bright red light at
sunset. For all its openness
to new ideas, the ­locanda
gratifyingly remains a
traditional family oper­
ation all’italiana: Monica
and her sister-in-law Franca
mind the stove, brother
Luca is the sommelier and
an Italian “mamma” and a
heart as big as a barn door –
that’s enough to bring even
the most reserved types out
of their shell. Carla Barucci
welcomes her guests with
a beaming smile and talks
them through the day’s
specials. “Sono Volpaia
DOC,” she says, alluding to
the wine’s denomination of
origin: “I’m a real Volpaia.”
Born and raised in the
hamlet that is visible from
afar as you drive from Greve
to Radda and that became
famous for its red wine of
the same name. A few years
ago, Carla moved from this
tiny village’s piazza, where
her sister still runs a wine
bar, to a rustic house on the
outskirts. “Because of the
view,” she says, rather unnecessarily, for anyone who
sits here will immediately
declare the gravel-covered
terrace with its old mul-
|
La Locanda
di Pietracupa
(San Donato
in Poggio)
her husband Massimiliano
manages table service. Luca
and Massimiliano pay great
attention to making even
families with children feel
at ease on the expansive
terrace. Service is brisk and
professional, but they still
find the time to explain a
dish, recommend a wine or
make a joke.
La Locanda di Pietracupa,
Via Madonna di
Pietracupa 31,
San Donato in Poggio,
phone 055-8072400,
locandapietracupa.com
Closed Tue. and in Jan.;
main dishes from EUR 18;
4 double rooms from
EUR 80 incl. breakfast.
photos
RESTAURANTS
– thick spaghetti – with duck
sugo or chicken with onions.
And then there’s delicious
“Torta della Gina,” a surprise
cake, baked by Mamma, as
it has always been.
La Bottega, Piazza della
Torre 1, Radda, Volpaia,
phone 0577-738001,
labottegadivolpaia.it
Closed Tue. and 6 weeks
in Feb./Mar.; main dishes
from EUR 6.20.
Il Canto del Maggio
(Terranuova
Bracciolini)
Our tip for a trip to the
Colli Aretini adjoining the
Chianti region: This terrace
garden beneath airy olive
and fig trees is one of the
most beautiful in Tuscany.
The “Song of May,” as the
osteria’s name translates,
is a heartwarming family
oper­ation. Mauro Quirini
and his wife Rosi tend to
the stove, daughter Simona
is in charge of desserts and
of guests’ general wellbeing. It’s a success: happy
faces at every table. Salad
with garden herbs and crosIl Canto del Maggio
tini, roast beef braised in
Chianti, baked guinea fowl
with black truffle or profit­
erole filled with vanilla
cream – every dish is a joy.
Il Canto del Maggio,
Fraz. Penna 30/D,
Terranuova Bracciolini,
phone 055-9705147,
cantodelmaggio.com
Closed Mon. and lunchtime
(except Sun.) and Sep. 1 to
15; main dishes from EUR
15; 7 apartments, from
EUR 85 (for two persons).
Il Vescovino
(Panzano in Chianti)
The Conca d’Oro (“Golden
Basin”) with the region’s
best vineyards spreads out
below the restaurant. In
the summer, “Il ­Vescovino”
has the appearance of an
airy garden restaurant
with a dream view. Cuisine
is authentically regional.
Tip: Come for an aperitif
before sundown and watch
the Conca d’Oro bathed in
golden light.
Il Vescovino,
Via Ciampolo da Panzano 9,
Panzano in Chianti,
phone 055-856 01 52,
ristoranteilvescovino.com
Closed Tue. and Christmas
through mid-Feb.; main
dishes from EUR 15.
Osteria di Passignano
(Loc. Badia
a Passignano)
This modern restaurant
next to the medieval abbey
of Passignano is always
a pleasure. The Antinori
­family produces its wines
of the same name here and
also operates the restaurant, which is a real highlight in the Chianti region.
The tasteful decor is as
relaxed as it is elegant and
avoids Tuscan kitsch even
though it employs tradi­
tional materials; the cuisine
is innovative. Recommendations include tortelli filled
with pappa al pomodore
(a mixture of bread and
tomatoes) and chicken legs
filled with chicken liver in
Vin Santo. Excellent choice
Osteria di Passignano
of cheeses. Steep prices,
unfortunately also for
house wines.
Osteria di Passignano,
Via Passignano 33,
Loc. Badia a Passignano,
Tavarnelle Val di Pesa,
phone 055-8071278,
osteriadipassignano.com
Closed Sun., 2 weeks in
Aug. and 1 month in Jan./
Feb.; menu approx. EUR 60.
Ristorante Loc.
Badia a Coltibuono
The Stucchi Prinetti family
turned the 1000-yearold Benedictine abbey of
Colti­buono in Chianti into
a successful winemaking
oper­ation, running a restaurant in the former stables.
This is the quintessential
country inn, set deep in the
forest, with a splendid view,
refined re­gional cuisine
and good wines (not just
family-grown). In summer,
you may sit under a wisteria
and rose pergola, in winter
in a well-lit hall. The menu
includes delicate ricotta
gnocchi with a pumpkin and
rosemary sauce, aromatic
wild boar roast with chestnuts and chard. Everything
is lighter and more refined
than usual. After all, this is
the kitchen where Lorenza
de’ Medici left her mark for
many years. She is one of the
most famous Italian ­authors
of cookbooks and also held
cooking classes here.
Ristorante Loc.
Badia a Coltibuono,
44 Gaiole in Chianti,
phone 0577-749031,
coltibuono.com
Closed Mon. in winter and
mid-Nov. to early Mar.;
main dishes from EUR 17.
Ristorante Loc. Badia
a Coltibuono
Il Vescovino
Chianti
region
Fonterutoli is one of the
most enchanting spots
on the Chiantigiana, the
main wine highway be­
tween ­Siena and Florence:
A handful of alleys named
after Italian composers
(Via ­Verdi, Via Rossini, Via
­Puccini), a little church, the
castello of the Marchesi
Mazzei with its beautiful park, an osteria, and
you’ve passed through the
­entire village. The silence is
remark­able. While tourists
throng the more famous villages of the Chianti region,
Fonterutoli remains calm.
The air among its naturalstone walls is pleas­ingly
cool even in great summer
heat; the little village
is set at an elevation of
500 ­meters and surrounded
by vineyards, olive groves
and forests. Could you wish
­ pposite (closed mid-Dec. to
o
mid-Feb. and Sun.).
Villa il Poggiale (San
Casciano Val di Pesa)
Noble villas arise from the
hills above Val di Pesa –
country estates often built
by famous architects for
well-to-do patricians from
nearby Florence. No less a
man than Michelangelo designed Villa di Pisignano to
the north of the small town
of San Casciano. Just a half
hour away on foot is the renaissance villa “Il Poggiale,”
an estate converted into
a country hotel. Ten years
ago, its owners decided to
turn the family house into a
guesthouse with a distinctly
private atmosphere. Trust
is a matter of honor here:
At the bar in the expan­
sive salon, help yourself to
wine or grappa and just put
down a check mark on a list.
The rooms are as diverse
in size and layout as you
might expect in this historic
building, which dates back
all the way to the early 15th
century. First-floor ceilings
are almost five meters high,
but one floor up, slants and
open beams give rooms a
cozy, homey feel. Rooms
are large save for two, both
still close to 20 square
meters, and furnished with
family heirlooms. Each
room has its own character.
In some, special charm is
created by frescoes on the
wall; in others, by a fourposter bed or a view of the
garden with its two tower­
ing cypresses.
Villa il Poggiale,
Via Empolese 69,
San Casciano Val di Pesa,
phone 055-828311,
villailpoggiale.it
Closed in Jan.; doubles from
EUR 97 incl. breakfast, holiday apartment for 4 persons
from EUR 235/day incl.
breakfast for 4 persons;
20 rooms, 3 apartments
(4–5 persons) and 2 suites.
Salon with bar, library with
TV and computer. Large
terrace on 1st floor, loggia
facing park. Pool, garden,
spa. Hiking trails beginning
directly at the hotel, bus to
Florence from San Casciano.
Light lunch served poolside
in summer, Apr. to late Oct.
evenings good buffet-style
restaurant for guests only;
daily 5-course menu from
EUR 30.
Relais Borgo San
Felice (Castelnuovo
Berardenga)
s t e f a n o s c a t a (2); p r (2)
Locanda di
Fonterutoli
(Castellina in Chianti,
Loc. Fonterutoli)
for more? How about a bed
for the night? The Marchesi
Mazzei, lords of Fonterutoli
since 1435, will be glad to
help you. Holiday apartments and guest rooms
have become available
above the villa’s orangery
and throughout the village,
all without damaging the
locality’s pristine charm.
The “Fattoria” features
small and cozy rooms
furnished with antiques.
The salon, by contrast, with
its hunting trophies and
equestrian photographs, is
rather grand in appearance.
A rambler rose tunnel leads
to the door of “Roseto.”
The inn’s three guest rooms
are furnished with modern
design and antique Chinese
furniture. The “Divina” room
displays particular charm:
Enter through a bathroom
salon, in which a folding
screen hides the grey masonry tub. In the upstairs
bedroom, two arched windows provide a view across
the Chianti landscape.
Locanda di Fonterutoli,
Via Puccini 4,
Castellina in Chianti,
phone 0577-741385,
mazzei.it
Closed mid-Dec. to midFeb.; doubles from EUR 90
incl. breakfast; 10 rooms,
3 holiday apartments
for 2–6 persons. 2 pools,
several gardens, court­
yards, salons assigned to
the different buildings.
Enoteca with ­tastings.
Hotel guests ­receive a
10% discount when dining
at the ­restaur­ant “Osteria
di ­Fonterutoli” directly
|
Locanda di Fonterutoli
Mar.; 29 doubles, 17 suites;
restaurant, enoteca, piano
bar, pool, spa, tennis.
Castel ­Monastero
(Castelnuovo
­Berardenga)
Villa il Poggiale
photos
HOTELS
Relais Borgo San Felice
So much space! Stroll
through San Felice, and you
will keep discovering new
snug spots: a terrace with
teak furniture and white
linen umbrellas, the loggia
with its upholstered re­
cliners next to the pool, the
gravel piazza with ­benches
in front of the Palazzo
Padronale and of course the
ample restaurant terrace.
Inside, generosity continues
with a range of cozy salons.
“Borgo San Felice” is not
just the protagonist, but
also a particularly successful example of Tuscany’s
‘villages to luxury hotels.’
Fortunately, this hamlet is
not just a five-star abode,
it is also a wine estate. This
is a wonderful combination because the village,
which was founded in the
8th century, has retained
a bit of everyday life in an
especially picturesque way.
The cellar houses oak casks,
while the fermentation vats
and steel tanks are housed
in the barn. Half a dozen
quarry-stone houses are
home to the people working
on the estate, and the
reverend Don Enzo reads
the mass in the little church
every other Sunday. Thus,
for all its refinement and
comforts, San Felice does
not feel artificial. Hotel
manager Achille Di Carlo
likes to show newly arrived
guests one of the enchant­
ing house en­trances. Terra
cotta pots with geraniums,
hydrangeas and oleanders
stand on every step, a
wisteria’s flower grapes rain
down the wall, lemon trees
exude their delicate scent,
and wine winds up a per­
gola. Service is attentive,
the restaurant is top-of-theline – and features pleasant
lighting. In short: “Borgo
San Felice” is a beautiful ensemble and offers
nothing but unadulterated
pleasure.
Relais Borgo San Felice,
Castelnuovo Berardenga,
phone 0577-3964,
borgosanfelice.com
Doubles from EUR 400 incl.
breakfast, closed Dec. to
Piazza, fountains, church
and ruins – the entire estate
is reminiscent of a typical
Tuscan borgo, a fortified village. No surprise,
then, that the handsome
stone houses bordering
the square are known as
contrade, or quarters. This
well-preserved ensemble
with foundations dating
back to the 11th century
used to be a nun­nery. Later,
the Chigi Saracini, a noble
dynasty from Siena, used it
as a country estate. This is
still evident in the family’s
crest – six hills and a star –
crowning the wrought-iron
fountain. Two architects
from the ­Italian design firm
HBA turned the twelve contrade with their rustic beam
ceilings, polished wooden
Castel Monastero
floors and black lava stone
bathrooms into a prime
­example of re­strained
­country house style. No
false pomp anywhere to
temper enjoyment of the
original. Add to this the spa
overlooking the Ombrone
valley and designed to resemble a Tuscan country estate. Even getting there (on
foot or by electric shuttle)
is a joy. Hardly five minutes
later, and guests can relax
in one of three pools set
into the slope edge, taking
in the spectacular vista
across the green valley.
Castel Monastero, Loc.
Monastero d’Ombrone 19,
Castelnuovo Berardenga,
phone 0577-570001,
castelmonastero.com
Doubles from EUR 385 incl.
breakfast; 75 rooms and
suites, 1 villa (7 persons).
“Contrada” gourmet
restaur­ant, counseled by
British star chef Gordon
Ramsay; Tuscan cuisine in
the more basic “Cantina”;
cooking classes. Closed Jan.
to mid-Mar.
Siena/Le
Crete
region
La Loggetta
Osteria Le Logge
(Cortona)
An institution only a few
steps away from Piazza del
Campo where famous polit­i­
cians have sat and enjoyed
pasta and red wine. Gianni
Brunelli and his wife Laura
opened this restaurant in a
former drogheria in 1978
(the drugstore’s original
cupboards and counter have
been preserved). Artists,
politicians, tourists and
locals feel at ease here,
the latter mainly in winter,
when calm returns to the
city. Mirco Vigni has taken
over the kitchen following
Brunelli’s death. The cuisine
is among the best in Siena.
Very good: spaghetti with
hog jowls, beef jowl with
purée and mustard seeds,
pigeon with cherries.
Osteria Le Logge,
Via del Porrione 33,
Cortona,
phone 0577-48013,
osterialelogge.it
Closed Sun. and 3 weeks
in Jan.
Il Falconiere
(Cortona)
La Logetta:Cortona
her chef Richard Titi serve
refined Tuscan food (one
Michelin star), liberated
from any excess robustness:
Consider delicate pasta
rings filled with deer ragú in
a hearty chickpea and chestnut soup. Silvia will improve
on traditional passatelli,
originally a poor man’s dish
made from old bread, by
seasoning them with nutmeg and adding refinement
with a sauce from lemon
and musk octopus. The
excellent wines made by her
husband Riccardo on the
estate go well with ­these
dishes. All that remains
is to spend a restful night
in one of the taste­fully
restored rooms; the villa
and orangery of Riccardo’s
grandmother’s fattoria are
Osteria Le Logge
Though “Il Falconiere” is
just four kilometers away
from Cortona, there is no
sign of hustle and ­bustle.
The hotel restaurant’s
terrace is great for enjoying
peaceful summer days and
succulent food. The charm­
ing Silvia Regi Baracchi and
now a Relais & Châteaux
­hotel. It is enjoyable all
year round – only during the
first two weeks of August,
when the “Festival del Sole”
takes place, does Cortona
seem to transform into a
suburb of Los Angeles.
Il Falconiere, Loc. San
Martino 370, Cortona,
phone 0575-612679,
ilfalconiere.it
Closed Mon. and in Jan.;
main dishes from EUR 28;
double rooms from EUR 290
incl. breakfast.
Il Canto in the Hotel
Certosa di Maggiano
(Siena)
Tuscany’s cuisine is conservative, but there is a
La Terrazza del Chiostro
hotbed of modernity right
outside the gates of Siena:
In the former monastery
“Certosa di Maggiano”
the Middle Ages meet the
21st ­century, for this is
where ­Paolo ­Lopriore has
set up his kitchen. This
disciple of grand master Gualtiero Marchesi
will gladly explain what
individual ingredients each
of his products contains.
He combines light tortelli
with peas, ham and almond
milk, or gnocchi with candied lemons. He will use
wasabi and ginger as spices,
but also ­native dragon­
cello, a ­tarragon variant, or
­nepitella (catnip), a typical
Tuscan herb. Lopriore’s
dishes are exciting, but they
eschew any posturing; his
successful flirtations with
exotics are refined and perfect in their workmanship.
Il Canto
j o h n r i z z o ; s t e f a n o s c a t a (3); p r
Take your car to the old
town wall, then a leisurely
walk into town along Via
Nazionale for a taste of the
best gelato far and away
at “Snoopy.” This is a ritual
for visitors to Cortona, who
have long conquered this
high-up Etruscan town. And
ever since American writer
Frances Mayes published
“Under the Tuscan Sun,”
the handsome squares in
the centro storico have
become crowded, especially
the ­Piazza della Repubblica. Here, opposite the
town hall, is where Lara
and Marco ­Frivoli opened
“La ­Loggetta” inside a
13th century palazzo in
2002: an unpretentious inn
with a large terrace under
train their lenses on the bella vista with the town hall’s
tower and its outside – and
slightly outsize – stairs.
La Loggetta, Piazza di
Pescheria 2–3, Cortona,
phone 0575-630575,
locandanelloggiato.com
Closed Wed. and in Feb.;
main dishes from EUR 7.
|
La Loggetta
(Cortona)
allur­ing a
­ rcades. This loggia, formerly a fishmong­
ers’ market, offers the best
seats to watch old town life
from. And the food is good,
too. Marco Frivoli, who is in
his mid-forties, has carefully modernized his home
region’s rustic cuisine. The
classic sformatino has been
turned into a light spinach
soufflé, with roasted pine
nuts and tart pecorino form­
ing a fruity-sweet contrast
with caramelized figs, and
leek sauce giving truffled
filet of beef a refined touch.
Gratifyingly, the owner
and his wife Lara, who is
in ­charge of service, lavish
attention on their guests,
even if they are tourists
just passing through town.
Among them are many
­Americans who will often
whip out their cameras
to snap pictures of the
restaurant’s attractively presented dishes, before they
photos
RESTAURANTS
Il Falconiere
And all served on the terrace under a cloister. ­Truly
one of the most ­serene
places imagin­able that
­invites visitors to linger.
Il Canto im Hotel Certosa
di Maggiano, Strada di
Certosa 86, Siena,
phone 0577-288182,
certosadimaggiano.com
Closed Tue. and at lunchtime as well as mid-Dec.
to Feb.; fixed-price menu
from EUR 80; doubles from
EUR 370 incl. breakfast.
La Terrazza del
Chiostro (Pienza)
A pretty garden offers a
vista far across the hills of
southern Tuscany to the
volcanic cone of Monte
Amiata. Guests can savor
the breathtaking view while
enjoying pasta with rabbit
ragout and truffles, gnocchi
with cherry tomatoes,
olives and tuna roe, or lamb
cutlet with pistachio.
La Terrazza del Chiostro,
Corso Rossellino 26, Pienza,
phone 0578-748183,
relaisilchiostrodipienza.com
Closed Jan. 7 to mid-Mar.;
main dishes from EUR 16,
four-course menu from
EUR 45.
Siena/Le Crete
region
Vertosa di Maggio
Hotel Certosa Di Maggiano
Grand Hotel
Continental (Siena)
17th-century Palazzo
Gori Pannilini is the city’s
only “grand hotel” and is
considered the quintessential luxury location in the
historic center. During its
renovation, magnificent
frescoes reappeared. Now,
guests sleep below dream
images showing parrots,
pheasants, peacocks and
lovers, below putti, in front
of balconies and balus­
Grand Hotel Continental
trades that look incredibly
authentic but are actually
just painted on.
Grand Hotel Continental,
Via Banchi di Sopra 85,
Siena,
phone 0577-56011,
royaldemeure.com
Doubles from EUR 400 incl.
breakfast, sometimes from
EUR 305 when booking
through Internet travel
agencies.
Locanda del
Loggiato
(Bagno Vignoni)
Locanda
dell’Amorosa
(Sinalunga)
What is true luxury? When
even the view of Monte­
pulciano from the oval
window in the wardrobe
will give any painting a run
for its money. When the
humidifiers on the radi­
ators contain a few drops
of floral oil. When towels,
pictures and furniture are
so pretty you’d like to take
them home with you. When
an estate has preserved
its medieval structure and
its owner had the sense
to ­leave the walls’ patina
in place. When so many
purposeful details form a
harmonious whole that with
hindsight it is hard to say
just why you were so happy
here. Loving perfection is
everywhere – every detail is
in place, but nothing feels
This medieval town was
made famous by its hot
­sulfur springs. In the 14th
century, St. Catherine
­bathed in the Vasca, the
­large basin substituting
for the village square. This
unusual piazza is beauti­
ful, surrounded as it is by
a medium-height wall,
one side flanked by the
loggia opening up to the
water. This is the place that
inspired Andrei Tarkovsky’s
haunting images for his
film “­Nostalghia,” in which
this Russian director has
a group of melancholic
eccentrics and half-mad
writers play chess in the
mist wafting ­across the hot
spring ­waters. He might
have watched them from
the “Locanda,” at least from
the windows of the “Acqua”
room and from the salon.
The inn’s first guests came
for the healing waters, too:
The spa’s patients slept in
large rooms there until the
1950s. After this, the build­
ing stood empty. “When
we took over, it was a ruin,”
says Barbara. She and her
sister Sabrina renovated it,
helped by their ragazzi Carlo
and Giacomo. Together they
transformed the dormi­tories
into eight pretty rooms,
whitewashed the walls,
left wooden ceilings and
terra cotta floors in place,
uncovered centuries-old wall
friezes and some especially
pretty virgin stones in door
and window arches. They
set up a grand piano in
the lobby and in front of
the fireplace they placed
comfortable easy chairs
and ­sofas made by Paolo, a
friend of the family, reproducing antique patterns. A
bowl of aniseed bis­cuits is
a fixture there, and anyone
can help themselves to wine
and water from the refriger­
ator. Breakfast is served in
the salon, tea is available
there with cake, biscuits and
choc­olates in the afternoon.
Locanda del Loggiato,
Piazza del Moretto 30,
Bagno Vignoni,
phone 0577-888925,
loggiato.it
Doubles from EUR 120 incl.
breakfast and tea. 8 double
rooms; wine bar.
Locanda del Loggiato
p r (2); s t e f a n o s c a t a (2)
One of the most beautiful,
but unfortunately also
one of the most expen­
sive hotels in Tuscany. This
luxurious country house,
formerly a monastery from
1314, offers 17 sizeable
rooms and suites, all individually furnished, and all
with antiques, carpets and
drapery in the country style.
Fresh flowers and fruit and
classy linen bed wear are all
part of the service. The real
luxury, however, is the quiet
and space. You can see the
towers of Siena, but all you
hear are the birds singing
and occasionally a dog
barking. A large number
of sumptuous salons offer
private space for guests;
the expansive veranda,
slick or stereotyped. Carlo
Citterio carefully restored
this 14th-century borgo,
creating a restaurant in the
stables and guest rooms in
the manor. Every single one
is unique; each offers harmony in design, hospi­tality
and subdued elegance.
Need we even mention
trivialities such as perfect
bathrooms, air conditioning
and attentive service?
Locanda dell’Amorosa,
Loc. Amorosa, Sinalunga,
phone 0577-677211,
amorosa.it
Doubles from EUR 276; 27
rooms; restaurant, wine bar.
|
Hotel Certosa Di
Maggiano (Siena)
terraces and courtyards, a
large garden and the pool
are other options for stylish
retreat.
Hotel Certosa Di
Maggiano, Strada di
Certosa 82, Siena,
phone 0577-288180,
certosadimaggiano.com
Doubles from EUR 370 incl.
breakfast.
photos
HOTELS
Locanda dell’Amorosa
Note on telephone
numbers:
When calling from within
Italy, dial the local area code
including the zero even if
the call is inside the same
zone (e.g. 055-8718074).
When calling from abroad,
first dial 0039, the country
code for Italy, followed – not
as accustomed – by the telephone number with the first
zero in the local area code
(e.g. 0039-055-8718074).
Note on Internet
addresses:
Please include “www.”
­before all Internet
­ad­dresses to complete the
addresses.