SOTM1 - ScoutingPages.org
Transcription
SOTM1 - ScoutingPages.org
SLIDES N' WOGGLES A COLLECTION OF WOGGLES & NECKERCHIEF SLIDES COLLECTED BY GREG FIRESTONE BOY’S LIFE MAGAZINE SLIDE OF THE MONTH PUBLISHED 2000 ISSUE NO. 1 Introduction W elcome all you Slide and Woggle Fans. If you like to create or have an artistic flare in whatever medium or know some one else who does then you'll enjoy this booklet. Once you turn through the next few pages of this booklet you'll never look or think about neckerchief slides the same way ever again. Quite a few of the slides represented here I have made. In fact I'm attempting to recreate or reproduce all of them. Now as far as whats the difference between a woggle and knecerchief slide I'm not sure. Almost all of them, with the exception of the ones I created/designed/concocted personally, came from the pages of Boy’s Life Magazine™. The earliest ones from a renowned gentleman known as "Whittlin Jim". I'm attempting to research more information about him and all the slides he's created. All of the others not listed as "Whittlin Jim" slides are credited to the individuals (if mentioned) who submitted them in the magazine and the date of issue. All this came about when our Boy Scout Troop 194 leadership decided to adopt the neckerchiefs that the boys wear. (Lead by example) With the introduction of this new policy I found myself without a neckerchief slide. Where upon I began digging thru the relics of my youth searching for any of my old slides. Unfortunately all of my personal slides where resin molded forms, such as a turtle, a campfire, and Indian Eagle. Which in and of themselves were neat, but just not up to my now creative standards as an adult. So I started surfing the internet and digging thru the magazines in search of ideas. I was quite surprised, with the exception of the one website for "Whittlin Jim", few existed. So I set about cataloging and keeping any slides I could find, including going thru available back issues at the library, and some found in our Troops scout shed. Each of the ones I've created have been sources of great fun for my son and I. On page 11 you'll find a design for a slide holder. It too is as simple to make as are a lot of the slides in this booklet. If you collect slides or make your own I highly recommend you to make one of these for their storage. It offers you a great way to keep them and to display them as well. So if your new to the art of slide making or you have the need to create or just lack the ideas for what to make? Look at the next few pages. I'm sure it will spark your imagination and urge you to make your own or inspire another ideas based on what you see. The only other advice I can give you when making slides would be "Patience". Don't RUSH take your time and do it right especially with whittling, painting and finishing. Finishing touches will all add to the realism and will covet you the awe inspiring gawks and questions, "Did you make that", "Wow, is that for real?" Enjoy... Good Scouting to all of you. Asst. Scoutmaster Greg F. F. Table of Contents Original Boy’s Life Original Boy’s Life Whittlin Jim Series Mostly by Wayne Mason Page 1 Old Oil Lantern . . . . . . . . . . . WJ1 Archery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ2 Page 2 Sundial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ3 Totem Pole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ4 Page 3 Brass Pipe Tomahawk. . . . . . . WJ5 Carved Eagle . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ6 Page 4 Flying Mallard . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ7 Locomotive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ8 Page 5 Cannibal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ9 Pick & Shovel . . . . . . . . . . . WJ10 Page 6 Peachstone Monkey . . . . . . . WJ11 Flashlight. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ12 Page 7 Pine Cone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ13 Crosscut Saw . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ14 Page 8 Copper Foil . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ15 African Masai Shield . . . . . . WJ16 Page 9 Solomon Isle Carving . . . . . . WJ17 Pedro-His Mark . . . . . . . . . . WJ18 Page 10 Scout Law Book. . . . . . . . . . WJ19 Hide Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . WJ20 Page 11 Pancake Stack . . . . . . . . . . . . BL1 Smiley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL2 Page 12 Carve-a-Face . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL3 Page 13 Battle Drum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL4 U.S. Wood Canteen . . . . . . . . BL5 Page 14 Wood Barrel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL6 Wind Mill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL7 Page 15 King Arthur Shield . . . . . . . . . BL8 Stamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL9 Page 16 Basketball Net . . . . . . . . . . . BL10 Page 17 Popsicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL11 Whistle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL12 Page 18 Woodland Slide . . . . . . . . . . BL13 Shell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL14 Page 19 Jack O’ Lantern. . . . . . . . . . . BL15 Checkers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL16 Page 20 Backpack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL17 Kachina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BL18 Page 21 Root Beer Barrel . . . . . . . . . . BL19 Greg Firestone’s Designs and Slides Page 21 SLIDE Holder. . . . . . . . . . . . GF20 Page 22 Viking Shield . . . . . . . . . . . . . GF1 Knot Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GF2 Page 23 Wooden Water Bucket . . . . . . GF3 Compound Saw . . . . . . . . . . . GF4 Page 24 Dinosaur Egg . . . . . . . . . . . . . GF5 Life Preserver. . . . . . . . . . . . . GF6 SPECIAL THANKS to… Boy’s Life Magazine, Woggle Master Russ Strenk’s webpage & others: http://members.tripod.com/~cubclub/slidemon.html http://members.tripod.com/~cubclub/carve.html PAGE 1 WJ1 WJ2 PAGE 2 WJ3 WJ4 PAGE 3 WJ5 WJ6 PAGE 4 WJ7 WJ8 PAGE 5 WJ9 WJ10 PAGE 6 WJ11 WJ12 PAGE 7 WJ13 WJ14 PAGE 8 WJ15 WJ16 PAGE 9 WJ17 WJ18 PAGE 10 WJ19 WJ20 PAGE 11 Pancake Stack BL1 Smiley Boy’s Life January 1973 of flapjacks, hot off the griddle, with a pat of butter Astack and plenty of maple syrup. Delicious! And, in miniature, a novel neckerchief slide made with real pancakes. To make one, start with your favorite pancake recipe. Add some extra water to the batter to make the cakes turn out thinner than usual, and bake three pancakes about two inches across. Place the pancakes between two sheets of waxed paper to dry out and set a book on top to keep them from curling. In three or four days, when they are hard and dry, paint each cake with two coats of clear satin finish varnish to preserve it. Then glue them together with household cement. Make a neckerchief loop from 1/4" Masonite or wood and cement it in place. The butter pat can be made from a 3/8" square of 1/16" balsa wood, painted yellow, or a piece of yellow plastic. To make the maple syrup, add a drop or two of brown wood stain to two spoonfuls of clear gloss varnish in a jar lid. Stir them together and let the mixture stand for an hour or so until it starts to set up and becomes thick and “syrupy.” Carefully dribble the syrup cover the stack of cakes, letting some run down the sides. When it is dry, you will have a neckerchief slide that looks good enough to eat. O ne look at “Smiley” and you'll have to smile back. He’s a “smile generator”. He can be made two ways; by carving him out of a wood block or, as we did, by cutting off the back portion of an inexpensive 2" diameter unfinished hardwood cabinet knob. We then fastened a metal slide ring (fashioned from a scrap piece of aluminum siding) to the back with epoxy cement. The photo shows how we made it; the drawing is full size. We spray painted “Smiley” with a yellow acrylic enamel, then added the eyes and mouth with a permanent-type black felt pen. BL2 By William D. Fleming and John Taylor Boy’s Life Apr 1974 1. Scribe a pencil line around the knob as a sawing guide. 2. With tin snips, cut a 3/4" x 4" aluminum strap (or use no. 18 copper); file the edges smooth. 3. Bend the strap around a 1/2" wood dowel to form the ring and trim to length. 4. Discard scrap portion. 5. Apply epoxy cement, let dry overnight, then paint and decorate with any colors you choose. PAGE 12 Carve-a-Face By Bill Burch and John Taylor Boy’s Life Apr 1975 BL3 C W hittling neckerchief slides is a lot of fun, especially if you know a few basic steps to simplify your task. Here are six different characters you can carve using the same basic head features. They were designed and made by Scouter Bill Burch of Spokane, Washington. All you need to make them are blocks of aspen, basswood, or medium hard balsa, a brace and 5/8" bit, a sharp penknife, and paint. (We used liquid tempera paint, then dipped the slide in shellac to waterproof it.) We made these slides from scratch, but somewhat similar carving blanks a 39 cents each are available from your local Scout equipment dealer or the BSA Supply Service, North Brunswick, N.J. 08902. The drawings at right give the full-size front, side, and top view details of the head. Note the back of the slide is cut out with beveled edges. arving Techniques: From left, (1) Start with a block of aspen, basswood, or medium-hard balsa. Locate and bore the 5/8" hole as indicated on the drawing. (2) Taking small, easy cuts round off the front side. Rough-cut the left ear. (3) Cut the jaw taper on the lower side. Start cutting the hairline; round off to get the desired style. (4) Complete the hair detail and finish the ears. Start the bottom of the nose. (5) Finish carving the nose and mouth details. Paint the slide as desired. The pictures show a few of the slides you can make with a 2" x 2 3/4" block. At far left, a cowboy; carve and paint a plaid tam-o’-shanter to change him to a Scotsman. Next the basic head which is shown here in full-size scale carving. Paint the tam red and you have a Scout. Carve a cap and beard for a woodsman. Change the cap and add a mustache to make the salty captain of a sailing ship. PAGE 13 he battle drum is a perfect slide to wear with your T uniform at Bicentennial or American Heritage events. Battle Drum Start with a 2-inch-square block of white pine. Bore a 1/2-inch-diameter hole through the center. Round the block as shown in the sketch, leaving a 1/2-inch raised band on each end of the cylinder (if you have a lathe this will be easy; if not, continue to round the block by carving, and frequently check to see that the shape is symmetrical). Sand the entire slide until smooth, then carefully drill or bore seven 1/16-in. holes at an angle through the top and bottom bands. Note that the holes are spaced about 1/2 inch apart and those in the top band do not line up with the holes in the bottom band. Paint the body of the drum a tan or mustard color (enamel or acrylic paint), and stain the bands walnut. Now paint a design (see examples) on the front of the drum, or cut a small symbol from a magazine to glue on the drum. Using heavy black thread, lace the cords as shown, and add the leather pieces for the ultimate in authenticity. Finally, whittle two drumsticks and glue them to the top band. BL4 By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life July 1975 U.S. Wood Canteen H BL5 By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life August 1975 ere’s a realistic slide that looks so authentic your buddies may ask you for a drink of water during long, dusty hikes. More than carving is needed, but the result is well worth the effort. Start by sketching the outline of the canteen, using the full-size drawings as a guide, on a piece of white pine (hardware store). Cut out the round blank with a coping saw; then, with a knife, indent the face of the canteen 1/16-in. Make small “V” cuts to form the slats. Next, bore a 1/8-in. hole in the top for the “neck and cap” which are carved separately as one piece. Sand the entire slide until smooth. A short length of jewelry chain (dept. store) is added to the cap with very small tacks. Now add the metal bands, which are cut from aluminum sheet. Glue them on and fasten with small tacks. The strap is made of leather and tacked to one side(see drawings). The fittings that hold the strap are formed from solid No.10 wire. Stain wood with walnut stain. Paint all the fittings, chain, and metal bands with black enamel; add the letters “U.S.” with black enamel. Finally, fasten a leather or metal loop on the back with strong glue. PAGE 14 Wood Barrel BL6 By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life Feb 1976 Windmill BL7 By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life Aug 1976 H ere’s a slide that will make everyone think of the “good ol’ days”. To make the barrel, start with a block of wood 2" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". White pine or any other soft wood is good. Make sure it’s not too grainy, however, or it may split. Bore a 1/2" hole through the center, with the grain. Begin rounding the wood by cutting off the corners. Follow the illustration and remember, a barrel is smaller at its ends than in the middle. When you get the desired shape, sand the barrel smooth. Carefully gouge out the hole until its large enough for your neckerchief. Make vertical indentations to form the “slats.” It helps to pencil in the lines first. Cut a shallow hole in the middle and add a whittled plug. Cut the barrel hoops out of thin aluminum or other metal sheet. Make them about 1/8" wide. Apply the hoops carefully with modeling cement. Hold them in place with pins until the glue dries. Paint the hoops with black enamel and lightly stain the barrel. Varnish the slide or leave it natural. M any people are experimenting with windmills as a power source. Here's one you can wear. Start with a piece of white pine or similar wood 2" x 1" x 1" with the grain running lengthwise. Cut off the top corners (see illustration). The roof is cone-shaped; the front has three walls. Follow the drawings for the windows and door. Cut small, shallow indentations on the blades as shown (use a small, sharp knife). Two pieces of wood 1/8" x 3/32" x 2 1/4" support the blades. Cut small notches in the centers so they fit together, and into the backs for the supports. Cut two small disks from pieces of dowel (one 1/8" dia., the other slightly larger). Carve the triangular gable and a small cap for the roof peak. Sand all pieces with fine sandpaper, Glue the windows, door, cap, and triangular wedge in place. Paint the windmill gray; the trim along the edge of the roof, the windows, and the door red; the center of the door and windows black. The windows have a red cross-hatching. Black lines simulate shingles. Use a straight pin and glue to hold the blades in place. Paint the blades tan and the supports brown. Glue a metal or leather loop on the back. PAGE 15 King Arthur Sword & Shield T BL8 By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life August 1977 Stamp BL9 By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life May 1978 his neckerchief slide from the times of King Arthur takes only a few nights to complete. Trace the shield pattern onto a piece of sheet metal (hobby shop), and cut out with tin snips. File the rough edges smooth. Bend the shield slightly so that it bulges outward. Trace the sword outline onto a 1/8"-thick piece of wood and whittle it out–white pine or basswood is best. Sand the sword smooth. Use enamel or acrylic paint on both the sword and shield. Paint the handle gold and the blade silver. Use the design shown here or create your own. A book on heraldry from the library is a good source for ideas. Glue the sword to the back of the shield with epoxy or modeling cement. Then Glue a sheetmetal loop to the back. H ave an attractive stamp you can spare and would like to show off? What better way than as a neckerchief slide? Mount the stamp on a small piece of wood (any type) that’s about 1/8" thick. Paneling scraps are good. Cut the wood a bit larger than the stamp so there will be an even border on all sides. Sand all rough edges, then paint the wood. Use a color that compliments the color of the stamp. Or try using a clear, non-yellowing finish for a natural wood background. Enamel paint is best, but almost any paint will do. Test it on a scrap of wood first to see if you like it before painting your slide. Attach the stamp with modeling cement or white glue. When it’s dry, coat the entire slide with spray lacquer to protect it from dirt or damage. Don’t use varnish or shellac, since both often yellow. Add a sheet-metal or wooden loop to the back with glue. PAGE 16 BL10 By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life Feb 1978 Basketball Net H ere’s a slide for real basketball buffs. It has a backboard, hoop, net and ball. Trace the backboard outline onto a piece of wood about 1/8" thick. such as scrap paneling. Cut it out and sand off rough edges. Make the hoop with wire, wrapped around a one-inch diameter rod. To attach the hoop to the backboard, bend a small piece of sheet metal so it fits through a slot in the backboard. Bend it over on the other side (see illustration). Use epoxy or modeling glue to hold the hoop and metal strip in place. Make the net from plastic mesh (the type used to cover turkeys and other poultry products is perfect). Cut a piece the size of the pattern. Sew or glue the two edges together as shown. Carve the basketball out of pine and make it a little smaller than the hoop (you might find a small wooden ball among decorative turnings in a lumber store). Paint the ball orange and add lines with a marking pen. Attach the net to the hoop with thread and glue. Paint the hoop orange, the backboard white, and the net grey-white. Glue the ball in place and glue a sheet-metal loop to the back of the backboard to form a slide. PAGE 17 H ere's an ice-cream bar that will never melt. You can carve it in just one day. The popsicle is made of any soft wood, such as pine or poplar. The Stick is a regular popsicle stick, cut down to size. Trace the drawings onto a piece of wood, cut the outline with a coping saw. Round off the edges with a pocketknife and sand them smooth. Trace the popsicle stick or any thin piece of wood. Cut slot in the bottom of the popsicle and insert the popsicle stick. Then glue or tack a loop of sheet metal, wood, or leather to the back of the slide. Paint the popsicle chocolate brown and white, where a bite is taken out. Use enamel or acrylic paints. The stick is left natural and glued in place. Popsicle BL11 By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life May 1979 Whistle BL12 By Tom Dwyer Boy’s Life Aug 1979 T he handiest neckerchief slides, like this one, do more than hold your neckerchief snugly around your neck. This slide is also a whistle. Use it to call for help or for fun with your patrol. Each end whistles a different tone, so you can make up a “secret” patrol signal. To make your own, begin with a 5" length of 3/4"x 3/4" clear pine or other soft wood. Use a 1/4" drill bit to drill a 2" hole in one end and a 2 1/2" hole in the other. Now, using the illustration as a guide, make a line 1/2" from one end (A). Make a second line 3/4" from the first (C). Use a coping saw to cut 3/8" deep at the first line (B). With your scout knife or a hobby knife, carefully remove the wood between A, B, and C. Do the same thing at the other end of the whistle. With both ends carved, flatten one side of the two dowels, each 1/4" in diameter bye 1/2" in length. Insert on piece of dowel in or out for the clearest sound. Use your knife to shape the whistle, as shown in the photo. To make it into a neckerchief slide, drill a 5/32" in diameter hole through the side of the whistle, glue the ends of a 3 1/2" length of rawhide or nylon cord into the hole. PAGE 18 T his slide shows you are a real outdoorsman. Woodland Slide • Find a fallen branch, with a 1 1/2-in. to 2- inch diameter. The wood should not be rotten or so old that the bark is peeling. Cut sections about 1/4-in. thick. (Many slides can be made from one branch.) • Pick leaves small enough to fit on the piece of wood. New, smaller leaves at the end of a branch are best. BL13 • The leaves must be dried. Place them flat between two sheets of paper, and put a large book on top. Allow them to dry three or four days. •Sand the cut end of the branch smooth. Then stain, or leave it natural. Fasten a wood, metal, or leather loop to the back with strong glue. By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life March 1980 Shell By Wayne Mason •Glue leaf on the wood, with white craft glue. When it is dry, coat the entire slide with clear varnish. Boy’s Life Apr 1980 BL14 D on’t hide away any attractive shell you found on the beach. Show it off as an eye-catching neckerchief slide. First, clean the shells with soap and water and let dry. For loops, use coat hanger wire or sheetmetal. You’ll need tin snips, pliers, wire cutters, and a file to make one of these. Sheetmetal edges should be filed down after cutting, to remove sharp spots. Then bend the metal to the proper loop shape, with pliers. Fasten it to the shell with strong epoxy glue. For wire loops, drill small holes in the shell first. Then glue the wire ends into place. Almost any kind of shell will do. Sand dollars and starfish also are good possibilities. To further personalize your slide, mark the place and date you found it on the shell. PAGE 19 Jack O’ Lantern BL15 By Wayne Mason Boy’s Life Oct 1980 Checkers BL16 Boy’s Life Nov 1980 C arve yourself a wooden pumpkin for Halloween. Start with a 1 1/2" square block of white pine or soft wood. Close-grain wood works best. Drill a hole about 1/2" in diameter through the center, as shown. Drill in the same direction as the grain, to prevent splitting. Begin to shape the slide into a pumpkin by cutting the block corners. Follow the steps in the drawings to get the pumpkin shape. Continue to round all the sides to avoid a lopsided look. Sand over any rough spots or nicks. Pencil in lines that make up the pumpkin sections. Cut grooves along these lines and round the sections. Sand the whole slide again, and draw on the eyes, nose, and a mouth. Paint the pumpkin orange and the face parts black. Acrylic or enamel paints are good. Use a small brush of the kind artists use. T his slide seems to say, “It’s your move.” It is sure to get attention, because checkers is a game almost everyone plays. • Use a coping saw to cut a piece of wood the same size as the checkerboard shown here. A piece of scrap paneling is just right. • Sand the edges of the board smooth. • Cut out the checkerboard on this page and glue it to the wood. Squeeze out any bubbles & excess glue with your finger. • Make “checkers”from a 1/8-in. wood dowel. You won’t need much dowel; a piece a few inches long is enough. Saw off checkers about 1/16-in. thick. • After sanding, paint the checkers red or black. Use enamel or acrylic paint and a small artists’ or hobby paintbrush. • Glue a sheetmetal, leather, or wooden loop to the back. Then glue the checkers in place on the board. • Protect the whole slide with a coat of clear plastic spray. PAGE 20 Backpack BL17 By Bill Andrews Boy’s Life Feb 1984 o the Pueblo Indians, Kachinas are KACHINA Tfriendly, helpful spirits. Masks and BL18 dolls representing kachinas are used in important ceremonies. Replicas of kachinas dolls are often found in gift shops. Making a slide that looks like a kachina doll is fairly easy. To help you select the colors, look at pictures of kachina dolls in your library. Reading about kachinas and about Pueblo culture will add to your enjoyment of the project. You’ll need: – A 3/4-inch block of pine or basswood about 3-inches by 2 1/2-inches (for the body). –A thin piece of wood about 2 1/4-inches by 1-inch (for the headdress). –Two pieces of 1/2-inch dowel about 3/4-inch long (for the legs). –Coping saw, knife, glue, paint. –A strip of leather or vinyl for the loop (or you can carve a loop from wood). Trace the body outline onto the wood block and saw around it. Saw a horizontal, side-to-side notch in the head to receive the headdress. Carve the arms with a knife. Drill two 1/2-inch diameter holes in the bottom for the dowel legs. Make the holes about 1/4-inch deep. Glue the dowels into the leg holes. Shape the kachina with sandpaper until it is symmetrical and smooth. Paint it colorfully. Glue or tack the loop to the back. time you hoist on your backpack, slide this Theslidenexton too. You can even paint the slide to look like your backpack. All you need are a piece of pine, a wooden dowel, a leather strip, a saw, a knife, sandpaper, nails and some paint. First, saw a piece of 3/4-inch pine to 1 5/8-inches high by 1 1/2-inches wide. Saw or carve out the shaded areas to form the side pockets. Then carve around the sides of the four pockets (you've already cut the tops and bottoms of the pockets). Make sure the pockets on opposite sides of the pack look the same. Round off the top front of the pack, and make a shallow cut across the middle to form the pack flap. To make the sleeping bag, cut a 5/8-inch or 1/2-inch wooden dowel to 1 1/2-inches in length. Bevel the ends of the dowel with knife and sandpaper as shown. Drill two 1/16-inch holes through the dowel; nail the dowel through the holes to the pack bottom. Sand the slide smooth, then paint to your liking. Finally, glue or nail a leather or rubber loop to the back. By Fritz Hines Boy’s Life May 1984 PAGE 21 T Rootbeer Barrel his slide is simple to make. Drill half inch hole thru a two inch by 1 1/5”piece of basswood. Taper ends and v-cut slats with the grain to form the slats in the barrel. Stain the wood with shoe polish or dark wood stain. Cut brass strips and glue around barrel use a tiny finishing tac to fasten ends. Drill 1/8” hole and either whittle a spout or fashion one with 1/8” dowels, and glue in place. BL19 Supplied by: Woggle World - Carved Woggles http://members.tripod.com/~cubclub/carve. html W Slide Display Board 3/8" 2" GF20 2" 3/4" By Greg Firestone April 2000 ith all your hard work wouldn't be nice to display your slides in your room at home. So here's a simple board I created. The only materials you'll need is an inexpensive pine shelf board about two feet in length, a 3/4"dia. dowel. (Long enough to cut how ever many slide posts you want. And finally a 3/8" dowel or one that's small enough for your slides to fit over. Cut the dowels down in 2" pieces. Drill a 3/8" hole in the one end of each 3/4" dowel and insert 3/8" dowels by tapping with a hammer(if loose put a small amount of wood glue. The hard part is next. Layout a grid on your board for however many posts you want to make. Be sure to keep the spacing even for a more uniformed look. Drill 3/4" holes for each dowel post(see at left) With a dabb of wood glue tap the post into each hole. Stain , varnish, or paint the entire display. You can finish your display with your name or Troop Unit number. You can either make your display board horizontal or vertical. Drill a nail hole for the top to hang it on your wall. PAGE 22 GF1 Viking Shield and Battle Axe By Greg Firestone January 2000 Knot Board GF2 By Greg Firestone April 2000 O ur troops leaders have a patrol dubbed the vikings. So I created this slide in honor of the viking warriors. It is a simple slide to create. For the shield cut a circle about 2" in diameter out of basswood or medium balsa. Then whittle it down into the shape you see pictured here. Note nicks and dents on the outer edge only add to the realism of the slide. Glue a back of 1/2" or 5/8" pvc pipe for the slide. I like to use both a dab of supper glue to help melt the plastic and some wood glue to adhere it to the wood. Cut grooves to simulate wood slates in your shield. Paint them brown or stain them with wood stain. Finish off by pressing tiny nails or tacs in the tops/bottom of each board. For the battle axe, take a penny nail and hammer it flat into the rough or crude shape of an axe, you may need to cut and trim it a bit. Grind or file the edges smooth. Using a 1/8" dowel 3 1/2" long cut a groove out of one end and round the other end smooth with sand paper. Be careful cutting the groove, it can be tricky. Once its notched out slide your axe head in and using either your choice of colored thread(I used brown) lash and secure it to the handle. Cut handle in half and wood glue to the back of shield being sure to align from front to give the full length appearance. Varnish the entire slide to seal it when done. T his slide was as easy as tying a square knot! And well all the basic scout knots. Simply cut you a piece of 1/8" bass wood sheet about 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" and sand and round the edges. Stain with shoe polish or wood stain. Now the tricky part. Using thin Hemp rope or thin strand rope tie each of the basic scout knots in miniature. Use a 1/8" dowel cut into short 1/2" pieces for tying the Clove Hitch, Timber Hitch, Two Half-hitch, and Tautline. The Bowline, Sheet Bend, and the Square Knot can all be tied without dowels. Trim long ends for more presentable looking knots. Using wood glue dabb each knot with glue and hold in position till it sets up, then set aside and let dry. Whittle a wood loop, attach a leather strip, or glue slide ring to back. Another way to make the slide portion is to drill two small holes on each side, then using the same knot material knot and slide threw holes to form a loop in the back. After all knots are affixed to board varnish the entire slide. I guarantee you scouts will take notice of this slide. PAGE 23 A bucket full of water but not a drop to drink. This slide was fairly easy to make. I found the wooden bucket form at a local craft store. It already had holes for the handles, and grooves for the wire straps. But it could be whittled too. First off, I cut "V" cut grooves forming the slates on the outside and top of the form. Then using a multi-thread picture wire I wrapped and twisted tight a strand around the bucket aligning them in each groove. Then taking snips cut off excess and a pair of pliers to mash in the twisted knot into the wood. Using common hot glue stick I melted an filled the bucket almost to the top. I then painted the glue with a gloss mixture of blue and light blue paint to make it look like water. After it dried I drilled a hole slowly thru the glue and bottom of the bucket with a 1/2" drill bit. Then Varnish the entire slide. The handle you can go one of two ways. A rope handle or a wire handle with a wood grip. For the rope version simply take some yellow twine and twist however many strands you need to create the handle. Knot it thru the holes using a figure eight knot. Wooden Water Bucket GF3 By Greg Firestone March 2000 Compound Saw GF4 By Greg Firestone January 2000 D erived from Whittlin Jim's Crosscut saw shown on the earlier pages of this book. I created a compound saw. Using virtually the same materials. I followed the cross cut saw design with a few modifications. The blade is more of a straight blade and lacks the arc that the crosscut saw does. Instead of the handles sticky upward on the saw. I positioned them more for a downward grip. On the tops of the handles I drilled a 1/16" hole through each side being careful that the holes matched the alignment of the saw blade. With this done I took multi-thread picture wire and running one end thru the hole wrapping around the handle and twisting to other side of wire. Putting as much tension as it can stand and repeat threading thru other handle and twisting tight. Now paint your handles Red, with white or yellow caution stripes around them, then varnish the hole slide. You could add your Troop Unit No. to the front of the log or paint the Paul Bunyan Axe on it for it to be given out as extra recognition for having earned the Paul Bunyan Award. PAGE 24 Monster Egg GF5 By Greg Firestone April 2000 Life Preserver GF6 By Greg Firestone May 2000 T his slide will put your whittlin skills to the test. You can buy these prefab wooden shaped eggs at most craft stores, the one I choose is a large hen egg. With 1/2" wood drill bit, drill a hole thru the egg from the fat end to the pointy end. Go slow on the exit so you wont rip the wood up to much. Now draw your image of cracks and a hole for where you plan to whittle out. What I did was cut the hairline cracks around the shape of the egg. Then I made a bigger deeper indention for the claws and for the peering eye. Once I had this done I cut even deeper the small grooves to form the eye and eyelids. For the claw I cut out of basswood one small claw like piece, then wood glued it into place making sure it appeared to be sticking out of the shell. If you want you could add a tail coming out of the back or side as well. With that done I gave the whole slide a coat of eggshell white paint and let dry. Then using an old tooth brush and some watered down brownish tan paint I flecked the egg to give it its speckled look. After it was all dry I painted the detail of the Dino with in a flat Blueish Green, the Eye bright Gloss yellow with black pupil, and the claw I borrowed my daughters opal white finger nail polish. I finished the slide with a clear Spray lacquer. Avoid varnish or shellac as it tends to Yellow. like to take all the credit for this slide but I can't. I had seen II'm'dsomewhere the mention of a life preserver for a neckerchief slide. sure somebody's thought of this one before. At any rate this slide has to be the simplest slide to make but has a great look to it. Any scout who's earned lifesaving or is a sanctioned BSA lifeguard would be proud to own an wear this slide. You can choose to whittle it if you want. But the easiest way to create this is to use any curtain style ring or plastic too and then painted. I left mine wood though. Wood rings can be found at almost any craft store. Size doesn't have to be fixed but this ring was about 2" in diameter. You'll want to get either a nylon or fabric based rope about 1/4" thick. Also you'll need any heavy colored tape. I choose red for obvious reasons, but any color would work. Cut your rope to length that will give you a square spaced look around your ring. Start by centering the ring on the outstretch piece of rope. Cut your tape to about 3/8" or 1/2" wide and a 1" in length and wrap the tape around the rope and ring, securing it in place. Continue around the ring taping the rope at the quarter marks. Cut your rope so it'll touch at both ends finishing under your last tape section. Add a loop to the back and your done. You could even paint it with your Troop number or initials. This book was produced by Greg F. Firestone in the attempt to catalog and help reference the numerous amounts of slides he has collected thru old “Boy’s Life Magazines ™ ”, internet sites, and other various means of inspiration, in addition to the ones he has personally created. All slides shown by “Whittlin Jim” are as they appeared in “Boy’s Life Magazine ™ ”. It is not my intent to capitalize or infringe on the afore mentioned works of “Whittlin Jim” or “Boy's Life Magazine ™ ”. I hope seeing these slides inspire you or your scouts into creating them or generating new ideas for their own. If you have any questions or ideas for slides you’d like to pass along feel free to visit our troops website(listed below) and email me at: [email protected] I'll be working on the second edition soon which will include many more slides dircetly from “Boy's Life Magazine ™ ” and more from other website's I've visitied, and those sent to me via internet, plus new one's I've personally created. A copy of this book is available via our troop website in a .pdf format. Visit our website at: http://hometown.aol.com/gfire/myhomepage/index.html