The Hollow Connection

Transcription

The Hollow Connection
Today’s fly anglers are targeting bigger game than ever on fly tackle. With this bigger game comes some even greater
tackle challenges. Leader and tippet connections will always be the weakest link, but what about the other connection? The
connection of your backing to fly line. One of the biggest challenges has always been the quantity and quality of backing
you can pack onto your reel and inherently the connection of that backing to the fly line. When selecting a backing several
variables have to be factored. Rated strength, diameter, and knot strength all play a role into your choice of what to put
behind that fly line.
Even though I never use a tippet greater than 20lbs, and use a Kevlar whipped loop in the ends of my fly line connecting to
the backing, use a bimini to double surgeon to form a loop in my backing to connect to the fly line; I always get a bad
feeling in my stomach as my backing flies through the guides. All I can think about is, “Am I about to lose another $70 fly
line today?” Ok so honestly I’m thinking that along with the thoughts of “Hell yeah, into the backing, rip it up!!!!” So I set
out looking for a better way to put my mind at ease during that next backing burner. Most anglers today are running a
spectra braid as their backing; TUF Line XP 50-65lb as an example, being one of the more popular for big game. There are
many flavors of advanced engineering behind these super lines, but they all pretty much come down to the same molecular
structure. Differentiating between Spectra, Dyneema (which are the same stuff, basically just different licensing/patents)
Gel Spun, Braided, Coated, Uncoated, etc…is another article in itself.
Spectra gives us the benefits of a high strength to diameter ratio, abrasion resistance, retains its strength when wet, does not
absorb water, a low coefficient of friction, and for the most part is unaffected by UV Rays, gas, oil, salt or detergents. The
lower diameter of using spectra as a backing allows for a higher volume of backing to be on the reel, which in turn means
slower spool rpms when the fish runs, faster pickup when retrieving, and a more efficient drag setting due to a smaller
change in diameter as backing goes off the reel. The downside of spectra until now, has been making the connection. In
spectra even a 20-40 turn bimini twist only gets about 75% knot strength. This is mostly due to the physical nature of
spectra. It is slick which allows the knot to slip and as the knot slips and tightens under the strain of fighting a fish, it will
cut into itself ultimately causing a failure.
My search for a better solution finally led me to the conventional big game tackle guys and how they have revolutionized
the way big game tackle is rigged for Tuna and Marlin fishing. On conventional tackle, they have dealt with the same
backing challenge as fly tackle in respect to capacity and strength of backing capacity. The more line of a thinner diameter,
and of greater strength you can load onto your reel, the better. For conventional tackle spectra presented the problems of no
stretch (usually only 2-3% stretch), either snatching the bait away from the fish, pulling the hook through the fishes mouth,
or snapping from the initial forces exerted at the strike. Spectra use also reduced the strike ratio, due to it being visible to
weary eyed fish like tuna unlike mono or fluorocarbon. At first conventional anglers just knotted the spectra to a swivel,
and then connected the leader section to the swivel. The problem with this setup, is that when the swivel hit the rod tip, the
deckhand had to take wraps and hand line the fish the rest of the way to the boat. Also with the use of non wind on leaders,
you still had the weak point of the spectra knot at the swivel. To overcome these problems, but gain the benefits of capacity
and strength that spectra can provide and benefit from the low visibility and stretch that mono and fluorocarbon provide,
top shoting began. Top shoting is basically using spectra as backing on a conventional reel, with a 25ft to 100 yard shot of
mono or fluorocarbon on top of the spectra, (hence the name “top shot”). This top shot also needed to be wind-on. This
meaning you need a connection that can pass through the rod guides and just keep winding it onto the reel, allowing for the
fish to be brought all the way boat side by the angler. By top shoting with a wind on style leader, this is prevented, and the
mate on deck can wait till the fish is fought to the boat by the angler. To make these wind on style leaders a few specialized
manufacturers started producing hollow core spectra. Jerry Brown was one of the first to produce this for the US market,
and the Jerry Brown Line One hollow core spectra is still the one to match. Western Filament makes Guides Choice, but it
is hard to come by, and new to the market is Blackwater International Inc. which is way overpriced.
These hollow core spectras allow for the top shot of fluorocarbon or mono to be fed up into to the spectra to form a finger
cuff, knotless, 100% connection. Now I’m not talking about the little 6 inch braided mono finger cuff connectors you find
at the fly shop. I’m talking about a finger cuff connection that’s 3-5 ft long, and can handle 100% of what the spectra and
top shot are rated at. Once the finger cuff connection is made, it is then bonded at the point where the mono/fluoro enters
the spectra with a 2 part spectra adhesive system. The first part is an activator which gets the spectra molecularly ready for
bonding, and the second part is the actual glue that bonds the spectra to the top shot. This end connection is then served
(wrapped over) with 10-12lb solid spectra to add additional strength. If the angler has a need to swap top shots out easily, a
100% spectra loop can be put in the hollow core spectra backing and connected to a top shot with a spectra loop at it’s
base.
So thanks for the lesson in conventional top shotting, but how does this relate to fly fishing? Think of it this way. In fly
fishing, we are basically top shotting our backing with a fly line. So why not apply these same principals of connection to
fly tackle. Instead of knotting the backing to the fly line, use a hollow core spectra and use the finger cuff connection. This
provides a 100% connection between the fly line and backing, and also provides a connection that shoots through the
guides barely noticed as you transition from fly line to backing in the heat of battle. Like to switch out lines? Splice
knotless 100% strength loop to loop connections on the backing and fly line ends. Most fly line manufacturers are already
producing loops in there lines for loop to loop connections. Also, if you fish around a lot of structure, occasionally you get
cut off. I know, it sucks, but it’s part of the game. With hollow spectra, instead throwing away the rest of the backing that
Copyright 2008 by Capt. Harry Huelsbeck www.capth3.com
got broke off; simply splice in new backing on top of the cut backing that is on the spool. This splice in the hollow core
spectra is 100%.
So, how are these connections made? To make these connections, a few special tools are needed. The most important is a
needle kit. This needle kit provides hollow needles for inserting the fly line into the spectra, latch needles for making
spliced loops, and splicing needles for making splices. Next is the adhesive system. The adhesive system consists of two
parts. The first part is an activator, which activates the spectra fibers and prepares them for bonding. The second part is the
glue that bonds the spectra to the topshot. No other glue can do what this glue does, period. You will also need a razor and
some fine grit sandpaper. Those few tools alone can get a good connection. In order to get a better and smoother
connection, you will also need a line stretching clamp, and a line server. The clamp will allow you to serve the connection
under tension, and the line server will serve the end of the spectra tightly and evenly. Another useful tool is a pair of braid
scissors. You could use a sharp razor to cut the spectra instead of scissors, but trust me the braid scissors make it much less
frustrating.
So give top shoting a try. Next time you have a good backing burner, you’ll have one less thing to worry about.
Approximate backing capacities:
60lb Jerry Brown Line OneHollow Spectra® Reel Capacity Guide
Reel (Line)
Capacity
Tibor Pacific (WF14S)
960 yds
Tibor Pacific Spool 2 (WF12F)
347 yds
Tibor Gulfstream (WF12F)
480 yds
Tibor Gulfstream Spool2 (WF12F)
240 yds
Tibor Riptide
320 yds
Tibor Everglades
240 yds
TFO Hayden3
640 yds
TFO Hayden2
384 yds
TFO Hayden1
320 yds
Nautilus CCF No.10 (WF10)
400 yds
Nautilus CCF No.12 (WF11)
528 yds
Nautilus CCF No.12T (WF12)
560 yds
Nautilus CCF No.12S (WF12)
760 yds
Nautilus NV No.8/9 (WF9)
320 yds
Nautilus NV No.10/11 (WF11)
360 yds
Abel Super 9 (WF10)
280 yds
Abel Super 10 (WF10)
352 yds
440 yds
520 yds
Abel Super 12W (WF12)
640 yds
Abel Super 12X (WF11)
280 yds
480 yds
880 yds
Abel Big Game Standard Arbor 3 (WF10)
440 yds
528 yds
Abel Big Game Standard Arbor 4.5N (WF12)
792 yds
1,360 yds
Abel Anti Reverse Standard Arbor 3AR (WF10)
440 yds
Abel Anti Reverse Standard Arbor 4AR (WF11)
576 yds
Abel Anti Reverse Standard Arbor 4.5N AR (WF12)
792 yds
Abel Anti Reverse Large Arbor Super 10 AR (WF10)
352 yds
Abel Anti Reverse Large Arbor Super 12 AR (WF12)
520 yds
G-Loomis Current 9-10 (WF9)
400 yds
Orvis Vortex VI (WF10)
600 yds
Orvis Batten Kill LA VI (WF10)
600 yds
Redington Titanium 9/10
320 yds
Redington Titanium 11/12
400 yds
Van Staal C-Vex 9/10 (WF10)
368 yds
Van Staal C-Vex 11/12 (WF12)
560 yds
If you don’t see your reel listed, you can use the following formula,
The reels 30lb backing capacity multiplied by .024 divided by .015 equals Line One 60lb Capacity.
So if a reel is rated for 300 yds of Dacron, it will hold 480 yds of Line One. (300*.024/.015=480)
You can contact Jerry Brown Industries directly at 1-541-855-7127. Jerry is good people and always ready and excited to
talk about fishing and rigging tackle. Jerry’s service to customers is quick, and in this world of internet driven e-commerce
Jerry does business the old fashioned way, taking care of his customers one at a time. If you order from Jerry Brown,
please tell them that Harry Huelsbeck in Norfolk, VA sent you, and that this is for fly fishing. I get nothing out of it, but I
want Jerry to see what kind of numbers that fly fishing anglers could bring him, so that maybe it can influence them to
build a fly rigging kit that might be cheaper for them to produce and us to buy. Also, I hate to include anything negative,
but in my experience, do not do business with Jame’s Tackle out of PA. He advertises LineOne stuff on E-bay and his
online store. He may be the cheapest out there, but I have had some real problems getting stuff from him in the past.
Also to keep your cost down, split the purchase of the needle kits, 80lb, and adhesive system with some friends. There
would be more than enough to do a whole bunch of connections, and would be a good excuse to get together, drink some
beers, and rig some tackle.
Jerry Brown Direct Prices:
Jerry Brown Industries Pricing
Product
Price
Needle Splicing Kit
$65.00
Ideal Braided Line Scissors
$29.00
Adhesive System One
$23.00
60lb Line One Hollow 300 yds
$42
$78
$156
$324
$18
$34
You can also contact me Capt. Harry Huelsbeck with any questions you might have at [email protected] or by
visiting my website at www.capth3.com
The Hollow Connection How To
This is a step by step guide to finger cuff 80lb spectra over the running line of your fly line, then splice the
80lb spectra into the 60lb backing, and lastly how to form loops for loop to loop connections. This
connection is really for 10wt and up gear. I’m working on the 40/60/80lb connection for 9wt rods now.(I’ve
got it done, but not yet satisfied with testing.) Why not just do straight 60lb instead of 80 to 60? After
testing several different ways, it came down to this being the best way. If you do just straight 60lb cuffed
over the fly line, it seems to stretch the spectra open just a little further than it wants and it gets a fraid look
to it. Also, at the tip of the fly line where it ends inside the spectra, it causes a little bit of a catch point.
Running in and out of the guides might cause wear on this point. Using a 6-7ft shot of 80lb for the finger
cuff, and then splicing it into the 60lb solves these two issues. It does this by being bigger in diameter and
forming easier over the fly line, and by having a higher thread count which provides a little more
buffer/cushion on the end of the fly line inside.
Part One: The Finger Cuff
1. Select a hollow needle that is about the same size as the fly lines running line. (In the Jerry Brown
Needle Kit, it’s the 3rd from smallest.)
2. Cut the running line into a point. This may have to be done several times in frustration in order to
achieve the right point that will be smooth. (Mono core lines are a bit easier to do than braided core
lines)
3. Run some sand paper over the last 3ft of running line to roughen it up and get some of the fly line
coatings off. This allows for the spectra to get a better grip on the fly line, and the adhesive to make a
better bond. Also go over the tip you just formed with the razor blade a few extra times, to try and
smooth it up as much as possible to avoid any snagging by the spectra.
4. Insert the point into the hollow end of the needle. You need to really jam it in there to get a grip on the
running line. This takes some practice, and patience is a big factor. Set the needle and attached running
line to the side.
5. Cut off a 6 ft piece of 80lb hollow spectra.
a. Using one of the smaller needles, open up a couple of inches of one end of the 80lb spectra.
(In the Jerry Brown needle kit, I use the smallest splicing needle for this) To remove the
needle, simply push down from the end of the spectra, back over the needle.
b. Starting the needle into the spectra.
c. Running the needle up/into the spectra. Note where the left hand is pushing the spectra onto
the needle from, this is the end of this push on. Always push the spectra onto the needle, not
the needle into the spectra. Be patient and work a little bit at a time.
d. Removing the opened spectra from the smaller needle. Note where the left hand is pulling the
spectra off of the needle from, from the end.
6. Now take the needle with the running line attached and start it into the end of the 80lb spectra.
Remember that you are putting the spectra onto the needle, not the needle into the spectra. Put the
spectra on an inch at a time. Occasionally you will need to run your hand down the needle lightly
pushing the spectra down toward the running line to clear the spectra from binding up.
7. Keep feeding the spectra onto the needle and over the running line till you have fed on about 2-3 ft
total including the needle. (The picture below is only about a foot, just to show the needle, spectra, and
fly line in one shot.)
8. After feeding about three feet into the 80lb spectra (or to the mark where you stopped roughing it with
the sand paper), exit the needle thru the sidewall of the spectra. Continue pushing the needle out of the
spectra binging the fly line with it. Try to end up, so that when you remove the needle, just a little tip
of the fly line will protrude.
9. Grasp the spectra tightly an inch or two up the running line from it’s tip that is protruding from the
spectra with your right hand.
10. With your right hand pinch the spectra on the fly line 2-3 inches up the fly line. With the left hand,
gently push the spectra back over the protruding tip of fly line; taking the fly line back into the spectra.
11. Now hold the tip of the fly line inside the spectra with your left hand. With the right hand gently
12.
squeeze and push the spectra to the right over the fly line away from your left hand. This will push the
hollow spectra down over the fly line further, and create the finger cuff that is going to hold the line.
Do this sequentially a few times, getting a little tighter each time. The spectra should now be tight and
forming the finger cuff over the fly line.
One you have tightened out the finger cuff, clamp the line in the serving jig. The jig will keep the line
under tension while you glue and serve the connection.
13. An inch in from the end of the spectra, apply an inch or two of activator.
14. Allow the activator about 30 seconds to evaporate.
15. ¼ to a ½ inch in from the end of the spectra, apply the glue. Twist the connection to ensure that you
apply a tin even coat around the entire connection. Use just enough, so that it soaks into the fibers well.
Avoid letting glue get into the last ¼ inch of the spectra. We want the last ¼ inch or so of Spectra to be
clean and raw, so that it can be served properly.
16. Allow the glue to dry for a minute or two. Once the glue is dry, the strength of the connection is 100%
The following steps for serving provide some strength, but mostly protect the ends of the spectra from
chafing.
17. Start the serving process by cutting off a foot or so of the serving spectra.(Serving spectra is 12-14lb
18.
solid spectra. I use Stren 12lb Microfuse) Set this piece of spectra aside, we will use it in later steps.
With the spectra in a bodkin, make a wrap around the connection just forward of where the glue ends
on the spectra side. (This allows the glue to do it’s job) On this first wrap wind the spectra so that the
serving winds over the tag end.
19. Make 5-6 wraps over the tag end, and pull it tight. You will see the spectra start to become translucent
when it’s tight enough.
20. Trim the tag end off.
21. Continue winding over the tag end till your ¼ of the way to the end.
22. Now take the piece of spectra that we set aside earlier in step 17 and form a loop, and place it on top of
the serving as shown.
23. Continue your wraps over the loop of spectra, till you reach a point a wrap or two from the end of the
hollow spectra. Do not go past the hollow spectra. Once past the spectra this defeats the purpose of the
serving and will cut into and weaken the fly line.
24. Once you have reached your stopping point of one to two wraps from the end, hold the serving so that
it does not unravel. Cut off the spectra from the bodkin, leaving a tag end of about 8-12 inches. Feed
the tag end, into the loop that the wraps were placed over.
25. Using the tag end of the loop, pull the tag end of the serving spectra back under itself.
26. Once the tag end is pulled through, pull it tight just as the first tag end was trimmed in the previous
step. You’ll notice a little bit of fuzz from the spectra that remains exposed, this is fine.
27. Trim the tag end away, being careful not to cut any of the serving threads.
28. The completed serve.
Now that the 80lb spectra has been finger cuffed over the running line, we now need to connect the
80lb spectra to our 60lb backing.
There are two options for this connection. You can splice the 80lb directly into the 60lb for a 100%
splice (smoother, better connection if you don’t swap lines out); or you can put a loop in the end of the
80lb cuffed over the fly line, then splice a shot of 80lb into the 60lb and put a loop in the end of it also.
My reason for making both loops with 80lb is because it’s easier to get the 80lb loops undone, and it’s
a little more chafe resistant. You can make a loop in the 60lb, but it has the downside of being hard to
pick the loop apart for line switching, and you have an increased chance that the 60lb might cut into
the 80lb under tension.
Part Two The Splice:
For the following instruction, the 80lb is pink and the 60lb is white
1. Come into the sidewall of the 60lb spectra with the small splicing needle (loop puller) about 12
inches from the tag end.
2.
Start the needle into the sidewall of the 60lb. It takes a little practice and patients, but you want to
get the needle in through the sidewall and into the hollow core of the 60lb.
3. Once you have the needle in through the sidewall and pushing through the hollow 60lb, feed the
60lb onto the needle until it hits the looped end of the splicing needle.
4. Push the needle tip back through the sidewall of the 60lb to exit. Capture about 1 inch of the 80lb
in the looped end of the splicing needle. (Put an inch through the looped end, fold it back tight on
itself. It helps to grasp the 80lb and the 80lb tagged in together and pull it tight on the needles
looped end.)
5.
Grasp the tip of the needle from the exit point. Pull out the needle you’re your left hand, while
using your right hand to gently push the 60lb hollow core over the 80lb.
6. Continue pulling the needle and the 80, till the needle and about 3 inches of 80lb exit out of the
60lb.
7. Remove the tag end of the 80lb from the loop in the needle.
8. Being right handed, I flip the two lines over for the following steps, so that I can do the needle
9.
work with my right hand. Notice that the pink 80lb is now on the left side.
Insert the splicing needle into the sidewall of the 80lb very close to where the 80lb enters the 60lb.
10. Feed the 80lb onto the splicing needle, until it hits the looped end of the needle.
11. Push the needle tip through the sidewall of the 80lb for an exit point. Capture an inch or so of the
60lb in the looped end of the needle.
12. Feed the needle and 60lb spectra through the 80lb, just as before; grasping with the left hand and
gently pushing the needle and 60lb through the 80lb with your right hand, until about 3 inches of
60lb has exited the 80lb.
13. You now have two tag ends and a remaining small space between the two splices.
14. To eliminate the space, gently pull the tag ends. This will draw the space between the splices
together. Once the space has been pulled together, smooth the splice by pulling the opposing tag
end and hollow section. i.e., hold the 60lb tag end with the left hand, while smoothing the 60lb
over the 80lb with the right hand by pushing it to the right over the 80lb.
Repeat on both sides, until the connection is tight and smooth.
15. Expose the tag end by pulling out ¼ inch or so from the line it is inside of. Cut the tag end off
close to the exit point. After cutting the tag end off, grasp the line away from the tag end, and push
the spectra towards where the tag end was just cut off. The remaining tag end will slip back into
the hollow spectra by which it is spliced into. Obviously, do this for both tag ends.
16. The splice is now completed. If the two lines are the same color, it’s difficult to find where the
splice even is. Usually you can only tell by the line being a little thicker where the splice is.
Part Three The Loop:
For the following instruction, the tag end has been colored pink to clarify it’s location in the process.
1.
Insert the latch needle into the sidewall of the hollow spectra approximately 3 inches from the tag
end.
2.
Feed the hollow spectra onto the latch needle until it hits the stop point. Be cautious and
patient when doing this. The latch needle tends to try and poke through the side wall more
than the splicing and hollow needles, because it’s flat and not rounded. Also, note that due to
the latch on the needle, you can not pull back on the needle, as this will cause the latch to
close and grasp on whatever it can at the time.
3.
Exit the latch needle through the sidewall, enough to expose the latch. Kick the latch into the
up position.
4.
Latch the needle onto a loop of spectra as shown. Make the loop a couple of inches or so.
5.
Pull the needle and the loop back through. Be gentle at the point of getting the latch and loop
back through. Once started back through it will move a bit easier.
6.
Continue pulling through until the needle and the spectra loop that you grabbed, are exposed.
7. Grasping the loop that just came out, pull down on the tag end. This will cause the sleeve you
just created to inverse back over itself.
8. You should be looking at something like this. The loop can now be adjusted to exactly how
big or small you want it to be by simply sliding the loop in and out of the sleeve.
9.
To secure the loop, insert the latch needle into the main line approx. 3 inches from where the
tag end meets the sleeve of your loop.
10. Exit through the side wall of the main line just before the loop’s sleeve. Grasp a loop of the
tag end as shown.
11. Pull the latch needle and the tag end back through the main line. Disconnect the latch needle.
12. Just as with a splice, we now have a small gap in the splice for the loop. Gently pull the tag
end and the side of the loop that goes inside the sleeve part of the loop (which is actually the
main line). As with the regular splice, smooth out the connection, by holding from one side
and smoothing out the other.
13. Trim the tag end by pulling out a ¼ inch or so from within the mainline. Trim the tag end off,
then smooth the spectra back over the remaining tag, causing it to slip back into the main line.
14. The finished loop. 100% strength of the spectra into which it was made.
15. You are now ready for the next backing burner.

The Hollow Connection

Transcription

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