Vacheron Constantin article Status Magazine 2013
Transcription
Vacheron Constantin article Status Magazine 2013
VACHERON CONSTANTIN The Malte Tourbillon’s rose gold case measures 38 x 48mm, and is the largest model in the Malte collection. It features a hand-wound movement with a 45hour power reserve and has earned the celebrated Geneva Seal. 90 Bending TI TIME A s one of the first to produce tonneau-shaped watches in the early 1900s, the historic Genevoise manufacture quickly appreciated the possibilities of this barrel-shaped form. In 2012, Vacheron Constantin celebrated the centennial of its first tonneau watch by redesigning the elegant Malte case, a modern heir to the legacy. The current Malte collection was introduced in 2000. In 2012 the shape was further refined with a more tapered contour that gives the Malte a more tailored and contemporary look. To showcase this new style, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Malte Tourbillon in rose gold. The case, which measures 38 x 48mm, is the largest in the Malte collection. To further commemorate the 100th Anniversary, the maison also introduced a new tourbillon movement, Caliber 2795. The intricate rotating cage of the tourbillon contains highly refined components responsible for maintaining a steady timekeeping rate. The cage rotates to diffuse gravity’s force on the movement, giving the watch an even higher degree of accuracy. In keeping with Vacheron Constantin tradition, the tourbillon cage is in the shape of a Maltese cross, the brand’s signature. Vacheron Constantin updates tradition with the sleek look of the Malte. BY SCOTT HICKEY timepieces, like Caliber 2795, to outside scrutiny in order to earn the Geneva Seal (or Poinçon de Genève). For more than a century, this prestigious certification has been given to watches — made exclusively in Geneva — that meet vigorous watchmaking criteria. To qualify, Vacheron Constantin submits its watches to the Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Microengineering, which in turn administers a series of tests designed to determine if the watch meets standards for finishing, construction and performance. MORE THAN WORDS The movement reflects the maison’s formidable technical expertise, and, at the same time, exhibits its commitment to exceptional traditional craftsmanship. Caliber 2795, which was designed specifically to fit the Malte’s curves, is an exquisite example of high horology. It’s what you would expect from a brand dedicated to maintaining the highest standards of watchmaking. For Vacheron Constantin, actions speak louder than words. So its watchmakers go a step further and independently verify the quality of their work by subjecting The Malte Tourbillon’s clear caseback permits a close inspection of Vacheron Constantin’s hand-finishing, including the côtes de Genève on the main plates. 91 VACHERON CONSTANTIN ORCHESTRATING RESTRAINT Vacheron Constantin knows what all great musicians know, which is that the notes you play are just as important as those you don’t. This kind of tasteful less-is-more aesthetic is emblematic of the Patrimony collection and its dedication to timeless classicism. Vacheron Constantin finds creative freedom within these refined parameters, and offers two lines within the Patrimony Collection: the Traditionelle and the Contemporaine. The differences between these round-cased siblings are subtle but telling. The Traditionelle draws its inspiration from Vacheron Constantin’s rich history, including the dauphine-shaped hands, railway-style minute circle and smaller case diameter. The Contemporaine line features baton-shaped hands, gold-dot minute markers and a larger dial to define its modern aesthetic. Two distinctive models from the Patrimony collection bring these concepts into sharp focus. First is the Patrimony Traditionelle Small Seconds with a new model in platinum introduced this year. Its design is beautifully understated, from the slim case (7.9mm thick) to the sophisticated simplicity of its slate-gray dial. Similar to a pocket watch, the dial features a traditional railway (chemin de fer) minute circle. The minutes are indicated on a black track with white minute markers. This pattern is repeated in the small seconds display, which is decorated with circular graining that echoes the watch’s circle-within-a-circle motif. The minute markers on the silvered opaline dial match the rose gold case used for the Patrimony Contemporaine Date Self-Winding. 92 The Patrimony Traditionelle Small Seconds is housed inside a 38mm platinum case that is less than 8mm thick. The watch bears the prestigious Geneva Seal. The back of the Patrimony Traditionelle Small Seconds has a sapphire crystal that allows the wearer to view the exquisite decoration that adorns the hand-wound movement. The watch is produced exclusively at the firm’s historic manufacture and bears the Geneva Seal. The Patrimony Contemporaine Date SelfWinding has also earned the Geneva Seal, but its design follows a different path. Here, the focus is sleek and refined, from the case and hour markers to the silvered opaline dial. Its clean modern arrangement includes an aperture at 6 o’clock where the date is displayed. The view from the back is just as magnificent. Look no further than the gold winding rotor and its captivating decorative pattern. When the watch is worn, the owner’s natural wrist movements turn the rotor and wind the mainspring, which holds 40 hours of power in reserve. LADIES’ CHOICE More than 200 years after making its first pocket watch for ladies, Vacheron Constantin still enjoys a reputation among women who appreciate mechanical movements as much as beautiful design. Styles change, but the maison’s dedication to artistic crafts has remained a constant source of pride since it was founded in 1755. During the 1800s, it cultivated a department of decorative artists who specialized in creating ornate objets d’art, including gem-set pocket watches, magnificent enamel dials, and brooches made to conceal miniature watches. That high level of artistry remains an essential element of Vacheron Constantin’s identity today and serves as the focal point of its modern Métiers d’Art collection — which includes haute joaillerie timepieces — as well as the new ladies’ models it added to the Patrimony line earlier this year. Luxury meets delicate charm in the Patrimony Traditionelle Lady Manual-Winding. Its diamondset bezel joins seamlessly with the slim case, which, at 7.65mm thick, rests lightly on the wrist. Available in either rose or white gold, the 33mm case surrounds a mechanical movement, made exclusively in-house by Vacheron Constantin, that boasts a 40hour power reserve as well as an engraving that confirms the timepiece’s Geneva Seal pedigree. Middle left: The rose To satisfy more modern tastes, the firm gold Patrimony Contemoffers up the Patrimony Contemporaine Lady Autoporaine Lady Automatic matic in rose gold with a matching bracelet. It shares shines with diamonds on the the same aesthetic DNA as the men’s Contemporaine bezel and dial. Decorative guilloché line, but remains decidedly feminine thanks to key adorns the rotor that winds the differences like the diamonds on the bezel and dial. manufacture-made movement. Women who value mechanical watchmaking will surely admire the Geneva Seal Certified watch’s selfRight top & bottom: More than 50 diamonds glitter on winding movement. It features a date display on the the rose gold bezel that surrounds the opaline dial found silvered dial, while the clear crystal caseback proin the Patrimony Traditionelle Lady Manual-Winding. vides a view of the winding rotor, which is dressed Also available in white gold, both versions of this 33mm impeccably in decorative guilloché. model are Geneva Seal certified, and equipped with With its superlative selection of mechanical timea hand-wound movement that’s made in-house by pieces for both women and men, Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin. proves that fine watchmaking is appreciated by all. ¨ 93