Vacheron Constantin article Status Magazine 2015
Transcription
Vacheron Constantin article Status Magazine 2015
VACHERON CONSTANTIN The Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 chronograph reinterprets a model from the past for the modern age. By the HORNS BY ELIZABETH DOERR Vacheron Constantin celebrates 260 years of continuous manufacturing with a collection of exceptional timepieces showcasing the maison’s rich legacy. T he historic Geneva-based manufacture has produced timepieces without interruption since 1755, and one of its specialties is taking design elements from its vast historical archives and reinterpreting them for exquisite use in a very real and modern present. The Historiques collection is a perfect example of this, expressing Vacheron Constantin’s heritage through contemporary interpretations of models from the maison’s past. The newest model in this collection is called Cornes de Vache 1955 thanks to its inspiration, a 1955 chronograph boasting case lugs that the manufacture has fancifully christened “cow-horn” lugs. The original Cornes de Vache timepiece was the first water-resistant and anti-magnetic chronograph crafted by Vacheron Constantin. Alongside its emblematic lugs, the original featured a petite, by today’s standards, 35mm-diameter case in yellow gold featuring two “mushroom-type” push pieces and a screwed-in glass back. MODERN CLASSIC Today’s reinvented Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 features interesting stylistic elements, like the use of precious 950 platinum to make the 38.5mm case and lugs, which immediately remind any connoisseur of Vacheron Constantin’s illustrious past. The new watch is water resistant to 30 meters and features a screwed-in caseback fitted with a transparent sapphire crystal allowing a clear view of the complex, hand-decorated mechanical heart. The watch’s larger case diameter enables an airier display for optimal readability. To power the timepiece, Vacheron Constantin chose Caliber 1142 because it, too, is a historical movement. Naturally, the company has modified the caliber significantly to fit with its demanding horological standards. Most importantly, it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, which ensures top-notch precision and durability for the timepiece. While fitted with two classic round push pieces, the new Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 houses an exceptional mechanical heart, beating at an improved frequency of 3 Hz to ensure greater shock resistance and precision. This re-interpreted chronograph is endowed with an impressive 48-hour power reserve. Like the other new chronograph movements by the brand, the column wheel boasts a screw in the shape of a Maltese cross, Vacheron Constantin’s highly recognizable emblem. The modern Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 also features a silvertoned opaline dial, Roman numerals, applied hour-markers and hands in white gold. The central seconds hand and the 30-minute counter hand are a striking royal blue color, further enhancing the legibility of its display. The tachymeter scale added to the chronograph allows the user to determine an average speed over a known distance. A dark blue, hand-stitched alligator-skin strap completes this incredibly aesthetic and functional timepiece. 81 VACHERON CONSTANTIN ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION The beautiful Harmony Chronograph is part of the collection Vacheron Constantin released in 2015 to celebrate its 260th anniversary. Limited to 260 pieces, the watch is housed in a distinct 42mm cushion-shaped rose gold case. The Harmony Chronograph’s manually wound Caliber 3300 contains a monopusher chronograph, with timings shown on the 45-minute counter located at the 3 o’clock position on the dial. Additionally, this clearly designed dial boasts a pulsometer scale in red, which can be used in conjunction with the chronograph to take one’s pulse. The Harmony Dual Time is another beautiful model in the new Harmony collection. Designed in that same cushion-shaped case, but sized at 40mm and available in white or rose gold, its silver opaline dial incorporates subdials to indicate the time in a second time zone, as well as a day/night display. Limited to 260 pieces, the Harmony Chronograph uses a rare 45-minute counter to keep track of elapsed time. Housed in a 40mm cushion-shaped case, the automatic Harmony Dual Time is available in white or rose gold. All seven of the Harmony anniversary pieces unveiled this year boast a special engraving that will not appear on subsequent models: a scrolling motif inspired by the engraving found on the balance cock of the oldest pocket watch in Vacheron Constantin’s possession, which is from 1755 and signed by Jean-Marc Constantin. Known as fleurisanne-style engraving, this decorative addition appears on the rotor, a bridge and the balance cock. A commemorative inscription is also found on the caseback of these anniversary timepieces. SPORTY STYLE In 1996, Vacheron Constantin introduced the first generation of its stainless steel, luxury sports watch collection known as the Overseas. Three years later, the company added the first chronograph to this collection. In 2015, Vacheron Constantin expands the Overseas family once again with the addition of a new column-wheel chronograph model featuring a sultry gray dial. Left: A 260-year old pocket watch signed by Jean-Marc Constantin inspired the engraving on the balance cock. 82 The masculine dimensions of the 42mm stainless steel case remain simultaneously angular and beguilingly soft thanks to the interplay between the brushed multipartite case and the satin-finished bezel. Keen eyes will also recognize the shape of the bezel, which is purposefully reminiscent of the brand’s signature Maltese cross. The visual elements of this new Overseas are bolstered greatly by the watch’s functionality, including its automatic movement and water resistance to 150 meters. Production of this handsome model is limited to just 340 pieces. TIMELESS ARTISTRY The Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve recalls horological traditions from the 18th century with its fine craftsmanship. Even though the watch takes inspiration from the past, it does make a concession to the ease of modernity by using an automatic movement that has earned the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva certification. Housed in a 39.5mm rose gold case, its dial is dominated by two round registers depicting the days of the week and the date. Another long-standing tradition at Vacheron Constantin is that it has always made elegant watches for women. The latest is a stylish member of the Malte line — whose name is derived from the Maltese cross that is so emblematic of the manufacture. The quartz-powered Malte Ladies is housed in a white gold case reminiscent of the tonneau shape that’s been part of the Malte line for more than a century. It remains svelte enough in dimension (28.4 x 38.6 x 7.2mm) to be a companion for both day and night. And if the size and case material weren’t proof enough of its evening-wear appropriateness, then perhaps the 211 brilliant-cut diamonds are. ¨ Above: To enhance legibility, yellow highlights adorn the gray dial of this sporty steel Overseas, a limited edition of 340 pieces. The quartz Malte Ladies is presented in a white gold case adorned with white brilliant diamonds on the dial and bezel. An automatic movement stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva powers the rose gold Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve. 83