Vacheron Constantin article Status Magazine 2015

Transcription

Vacheron Constantin article Status Magazine 2015
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
The Historiques Cornes de
Vache 1955 chronograph
reinterprets a model from
the past for the modern age.
By the
HORNS
BY ELIZABETH DOERR
Vacheron Constantin celebrates 260
years of continuous manufacturing with
a collection of exceptional timepieces
showcasing the maison’s rich legacy.
T
he historic Geneva-based manufacture has produced
timepieces without interruption since 1755, and one of its
specialties is taking design elements from its vast historical
archives and reinterpreting them for exquisite use in a very
real and modern present.
The Historiques collection is a perfect example of this, expressing Vacheron
Constantin’s heritage through contemporary interpretations of models from the
maison’s past. The newest model in this collection is called Cornes de Vache 1955
thanks to its inspiration, a 1955 chronograph boasting case lugs that the manufacture
has fancifully christened “cow-horn” lugs.
The original Cornes de Vache timepiece was the first water-resistant and anti-magnetic
chronograph crafted by Vacheron Constantin. Alongside its emblematic lugs, the original
featured a petite, by today’s standards, 35mm-diameter case in yellow gold featuring two
“mushroom-type” push pieces and a screwed-in glass back.
MODERN CLASSIC
Today’s reinvented Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 features interesting stylistic elements, like the use of
precious 950 platinum to make the 38.5mm case and lugs, which immediately remind any connoisseur of
Vacheron Constantin’s illustrious past. The new watch is water resistant to 30 meters and features a screwed-in
caseback fitted with a transparent sapphire crystal allowing a clear view of the complex, hand-decorated
mechanical heart. The watch’s larger case diameter enables an airier display for optimal readability.
To power the timepiece, Vacheron Constantin chose Caliber 1142 because it, too, is a historical
movement. Naturally, the company has modified the caliber significantly to fit with its demanding
horological standards. Most importantly, it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, which
ensures top-notch precision and durability for the timepiece.
While fitted with two classic round push pieces, the new Historiques Cornes de Vache
1955 houses an exceptional mechanical heart, beating at an improved frequency of 3 Hz
to ensure greater shock resistance and precision. This re-interpreted chronograph is
endowed with an impressive 48-hour power reserve. Like the other new chronograph movements by the brand, the column wheel boasts a screw in the shape of
a Maltese cross, Vacheron Constantin’s highly recognizable emblem.
The modern Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 also features a silvertoned opaline dial, Roman numerals, applied hour-markers and hands in
white gold. The central seconds hand and the 30-minute counter hand
are a striking royal blue color, further enhancing the legibility of its
display. The tachymeter scale added to the chronograph allows
the user to determine an average speed over a known distance.
A dark blue, hand-stitched alligator-skin strap completes
this incredibly aesthetic and functional timepiece.
81
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION
The beautiful Harmony Chronograph is part of the collection Vacheron Constantin
released in 2015 to celebrate its 260th anniversary. Limited to 260 pieces, the watch
is housed in a distinct 42mm cushion-shaped rose gold case. The Harmony
Chronograph’s manually wound Caliber 3300 contains a monopusher chronograph, with timings shown on the 45-minute counter located at the 3 o’clock
position on the dial. Additionally, this clearly designed dial boasts a pulsometer scale in red, which can be used in conjunction with the chronograph
to take one’s pulse.
The Harmony Dual Time is another beautiful model in the new
Harmony collection. Designed in that same cushion-shaped case, but
sized at 40mm and available in white or rose gold, its silver opaline dial
incorporates subdials to indicate the time in a second time zone, as well
as a day/night display.
Limited to 260 pieces, the Harmony Chronograph uses
a rare 45-minute counter to keep track of elapsed time.
Housed in a 40mm cushion-shaped case, the automatic
Harmony Dual Time is available in white or rose gold.
All seven of the Harmony anniversary pieces unveiled this year boast a special
engraving that will not appear on subsequent models: a scrolling motif inspired by
the engraving found on the balance cock of the oldest pocket watch in Vacheron
Constantin’s possession, which is from 1755 and signed by Jean-Marc Constantin.
Known as fleurisanne-style engraving, this decorative addition appears on the
rotor, a bridge and the balance cock. A commemorative inscription is also
found on the caseback of these anniversary timepieces.
SPORTY STYLE
In 1996, Vacheron Constantin introduced the first generation of its stainless
steel, luxury sports watch collection known as the Overseas. Three years
later, the company added the first chronograph to this collection. In 2015,
Vacheron Constantin expands the Overseas family once again with the addition of a new column-wheel chronograph model featuring a sultry gray dial.
Left: A 260-year old pocket watch signed
by Jean-Marc Constantin inspired the
engraving on the balance cock.
82
The masculine dimensions of the 42mm stainless steel case remain simultaneously angular and beguilingly soft thanks to the interplay between the brushed
multipartite case and the satin-finished bezel. Keen eyes will also recognize the
shape of the bezel, which is purposefully reminiscent of the brand’s signature
Maltese cross. The visual elements of this new Overseas are bolstered greatly by
the watch’s functionality, including its automatic movement and water resistance to 150 meters. Production of this handsome model is limited to just
340 pieces.
TIMELESS ARTISTRY
The Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve recalls horological
traditions from the 18th century with its fine craftsmanship. Even
though the watch takes inspiration from the past, it does make a concession to the ease of modernity by using an automatic movement
that has earned the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva certification.
Housed in a 39.5mm rose gold case, its dial is dominated by two round
registers depicting the days of the week and the date.
Another long-standing tradition at Vacheron Constantin is that it
has always made elegant watches for women. The latest is a stylish member of the Malte line — whose name is derived from the Maltese cross that
is so emblematic of the manufacture.
The quartz-powered Malte Ladies
is housed in a white gold case reminiscent of the tonneau shape that’s
been part of the Malte line for more
than a century. It remains svelte enough
in dimension (28.4 x 38.6 x 7.2mm) to be
a companion for both day and night. And
if the size and case material weren’t
proof enough of its evening-wear
appropriateness, then perhaps the 211
brilliant-cut diamonds are. ¨
Above: To enhance legibility, yellow
highlights adorn the gray dial of this
sporty steel Overseas, a limited edition
of 340 pieces.
The quartz Malte Ladies is presented in
a white gold case adorned with white
brilliant diamonds on the dial and bezel.
An automatic movement stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
powers the rose gold Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve.
83