Vacheron Constantin introduces an updated

Once
Upon
a
Time
in
America
Vacheron Constantin
introduces an updated
version of a classic
timepiece from the
heyday of Art Deco,
outfitting it with a new
manufacture movement.
BY WITOLD A. MICHALCZYK
PHOTOS BY NIK SCHÖLZEL
December 2009 WatchTime 131
TEST
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
T
he Roaring Twenties bridged the gap between the end of World
War I and the beginning of the Great Depression. As the United
States economy boomed, a prosperous citizenry sought new
pleasures and pastimes. It was an era of cultural breakthroughs
and upheavals: jazz emerged on the music scene, Europe’s
Bauhaus and Art Deco movements influenced art and architecture, “talkies” replaced silent films on movie screens and more
and more Americans owned automobiles. The U.S. had firmly established itself as the world’s leading economic and social power.
The decade’s luxurious excess was also reflected in its watches. Only a few years before, timepieces first migrated from vest
pockets to wrists. Wristwatches had barely arrived on the scene
when they experienced their first stylistic flourishes: cases
shaped like rectangles, cushions, barrels, trapezoids and other
geometric shapes became popular, expressing the mood of an
optimistic era. During this time, Vacheron Constantin produced
a small edition of eccentric wristwatches exclusively for the
North American market. The movement inside each pillowshaped case was turned 45 degrees so that the crown was at the
top corner of the case, and the subdial for the seconds was positioned along the extension of this axis. Vacheron made two versions of this watch in the early 1920s: the movement was turned
counterclockwise in one and clockwise in the other. Both of
these models influenced the design of the Historiques American
1921 model, launched at the end of 2008. Its dial design comes
from the first model, while the positioning of the crown (and
thus also of the movement) comes from the second. Both vintage
models were manufactured in extremely small numbers — according to Vacheron’s archives, only 12 units of each — and the
Pros
few surviving pieces are avidly sought collectors’ items that appear only very rarely at auctions. One was on the block at an
Antiquorum thematic auction in 2005, Vacheron Constantin’s
250th anniversary year. When the hammer fell, this exclusive
timepiece changed hands for more than 70,000 Swiss francs (at
the time, about $58,300).
The American 1921 is the latest addition to Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques collection, which presents modern versions
of distinctive watches from the firm’s 254-year history. The line
was established in the 1990s, discontinued in 1998, and then relaunched in 2005. In each year since, Vacheron has added a new
watch to the collection. The American 1921 is the third in the
series, following on the heels of the Toledo 1952 and the
Chronomètre Royal 1907.
The small-seconds subdial on the American 1921 is positioned at 3 o’clock, which would correspond to 4:30 on a traditional dial. Unlike its predecessors, which used a Lépine movement with the small seconds and crown co-linear, this model
contains a hunter caliber with the small seconds and the crown
forming a 90-degree angle with the center of the dial. At first
glance, this seems to be the most striking difference between the
new edition and its predecessors.
On closer inspection, greater differences become apparent,
some of which are obvious improvements. The new Breguet
hands of black oxidized gold with half-moon eyes are even more
finely crafted than were their 1920s counterparts. The numerals
applied to the dial’s surface are somewhat bolder. As for the dial itself, whether the modern version’s sandblasted, silver-plated
metal one is an improvement over the vintage model’s enamel
+ New manufacture caliber
+ Excellent workmanship
+ Distinctive vintage design
+ High level of wearing
comfort
Cons
- Slightly difficult to operate
crown
- No stop-seconds function
SPECS
VACHERON CONSTANTIN HISTORIQUES
AMERICAN 1921
Manufacturer: Vacheron Constantin,
Chemin du Tourbillon 10, CH-1228 Planles-Ouates, Switzerland
Reference Number: 82035/000R-9359
Functions: Hours, minutes, off-center
small seconds
Movement: VC 4400, hand-wound;
28,800 vph; 25 jewels, Kif shock absorption; Triovis fine adjustment; approx. 65hour power reserve; diameter = 28 mm,
height = 2.8 mm, Geneva Hallmark
Case: Rose gold, sapphire crystal, caseback held in place by six screws, sapphire
crystal in back, water-resistant to 3 ATM
Strap and clasp: Alligator strap with
stainless-steel pronged buckle
Movements with a twist: the
American 1921’s predecessors
debuted in the Art Deco era.
The dial has an authentically
historical look: only a few
details have been modernized.
Rate results:
(Deviations in seconds per 24 hours)
Dial up
+1
Dial down
+5
Crown up
0
Crown down
+1
Crown left
–1
Crown right
+4
Greatest deviation of rate
Average deviation
6
+1.7
Average amplitude
Flat positions
325°
Hanging positions
278°
Dimensions: Diameter = 40 mm,
height = 8 mm, weight = 87 grams
Price: $24,900
132 WatchTime December 2009
TEST
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
one is strictly a matter of taste. The new version surely boasts
greater longevity and is much less delicate. All of this underscores the self-confidence of the watch’s designers, who opted
not to slavishly reproduce the face of the original watch.
GIVING THE MOVEMENT a 45-degree clockwise twist significantly improves the dial’s legibility for people who wear their
watches on their left wrist. In this modern computer era, most of
us sit with our forearms resting straight across the desktop or
with the left elbow slightly bent. When you glance at this watch
while in this position, the “12” will be very nearly vertical,
which makes reading the time easier. It does, however, take
some time to get accustomed to this dial arrangement. One reason is that the seconds subdial is shifted from its usual position
at 6 o’clock to a more eccentric position perpendicular to the
axis of the repositioned crown. This made it more difficult to
read the dial in the testing phase.
Apart from the positioning of the seconds subdial, there is
very little to criticize about the dial. Its daytime legibility is excellent thanks to the clear contrast between the dark numerals
and white dial. The rich layer of lacquer on the surface gives it
an attractive appearance and ideally suits the watch’s overall
proportions. Also appealing are the railroad-style calibrated circles that surround the hour numerals and the seconds subdial.
None of these beautiful details is visible in the dark, but this was
the right decision: Super-LumiNova or similar luminous substances would have taken away from this watch’s vintage-style
charm. In any case, the contrast is clear enough that you can still
read the time in weak light.
The lightweight, pillow-shaped case feels very comfortable
as soon as you put the watch on. Its 87 grams are forgotten moments after you close the pronged buckle with its halved Maltese cross. Well-balanced proportions encounter excellent
craftsmanship here. The edges, angles and planes fit so well together that you almost think the case grew naturally into this
shape, and was plucked from some horological stem before
skillful hands gave its rose-gold body a gentle polishing to
smooth its surfaces. The watch is also thin enough to disappear
discreetly under the cuff of a shirt and suit jacket — that is, if
you’d really wish to hide such a beautiful timepiece.
Not even the oddly placed crown detracts from the superlative wearing comfort. It conforms closely to the corner of the
case, where it’s far enough from the back of the wrist that it
doesn’t press into the skin. However, don’t try to wind and set
the watch while it’s strapped to the wrist: the flat crown is extremely difficult to grasp in this position. It is much easier,
though still a bit challenging, to operate once the watch has
been slipped off.
The watch has Vacheron’s
characteristic pronged buckle
with the halved Maltese cross.
THE ODD,
CLOCKWISE
TILT OF THE
MOVEMENT
IMPROVES THE
LEGIBILITY
FOR ANYONE
WHO WEARS
THE WATCH
ON HIS LEFT
HAND.
TEST
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
SCORES
VACHERON CONSTANTIN HISTORIQUES
AMERICAN 1921
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): The
elaborately hand-sewn strap suits the
style of the watch. The typical Maltese
cross clasp is among the most beautiful
pronged buckles we’ve seen.
9
Operation (10): The absence of a stopseconds function makes it more difficult
to set the watch with to-the-second accuracy, and the crown is not easy to grip. 3
Case (10): The case’s design is influenced
by those of its historical predecessors,
but technically, this watch is absolutely
modern. Even the smallest details
demonstrate the high quality of the
manufacturing.
10
Design (15): The vintage style is upheld
nearly throughout the design. Our only
criticism is the odd angle chosen for
the placement of the small-seconds
subdial.
14
Legibility (5): Large numerals and clear
contrast make the dial easy to read.
However, the shifted orientation of the
dial takes some getting used to.
4
Wearing comfort (10): Ideal proportions
ensure that this watch fits perfectly on
the wrist. Put it on and forget about it. 10
Movement (20): Caliber VC 4400 makes
its debut here, but the movement is
already mature from a technical standpoint. The designers have successfully
bridged the gap between beauty and
ease of servicing.
16
Rate results (10): Very good rate performance, but noticeable difference
between the “dial up” and “dial down”
positions. The values were also excellent
in the wrist test.
9
Overall value (15): The spectacular
design, high-quality craftsmanship and
low numbers of units produced justify
the high price.
13
TOTAL:
135 WatchTime December 2009
88 POINTS
WE WERE PLEASED to find that Vacheron Constantin animates the beautiful exterior of the American 1921 with an attractive and reliable movement. Caliber VC 4400, which debuts
in this model, is a recent addition to the firm’s growing portfolio of manufacture calibers.
The watchmakers could have made their lives easier when
developing this watch. After all, Vacheron’s portfolio already included Caliber VC 1400, a hand-wound movement with an offcenter subdial for the seconds, which could have easily satisfied
the demands of the American 1921. So why did the designers
opt to develop a whole new caliber? Simply put, because size
matters. The VC 1400, which is just 20.3 mm in diameter,
would have looked lost inside the American 1921’s spacious 40mm-diameter case. The 1400 is even smaller than the caliber in
the original American, Caliber R.A. 11’’’ 62 Nouveau (24.8
mm). The new movement is fully 28 mm in diameter, an excellent fit for a 40-mm case. Its first prototypes had already been
thoroughly tested and subjected to continual improvements in
2007, and the result is a stable caliber that’s built to last; its sole
shortcoming is its lack of a stop-seconds function. One reason
for the movement’s longevity is its use of 25 jewels — eight more
than are necessary for a standard hand-wound caliber. The extra jewels reduce the number of potential friction points and ensure that the entire movement runs with greater stability. Caliber VC 4400 is also constructed so that all of the important
parts are easy for a watch repairer to access. Vacheron Constantin intends to use this movement as the base for new ones in
the coming years.
The movement bears the Geneva Hallmark and lives up to
all of its high standards of quality. All edges are cleanly beveled,
all screw heads are brightly polished, a precisely executed wave
pattern creates shiny lighting effects on the bridges and cocks,
and meticulously executed circular graining adorns the depths
of the plate. After the mainspring has been manually wound, the
large barrel of the VC 4400 stores enough energy to keep this
watch’s hands in motion for up to 65 hours.
The regulating screws are solidly crafted and highly precise.
Fortunately we didn’t have to use them on our tested model, because our test on the timing machine revealed that the watch
kept time with an average daily gain of less than two seconds.
Those values were slightly higher when the watch was worn on
the wrist, but still very impressive: only three seconds’ gain. The
timing-machine test found a significant rate difference between
timekeeping in the “dial up” and “dial down” positions.
In the areas of both technology and design, the Historiques
American 1921 is state-of-the-art. As one would expect, the effort that went into developing such a timepiece has an impact on
its price. Vacheron Constantin has priced this model at $24,900,
which makes it the least expensive in the Historiques collection
but still pricier than comparable watches like the Gondolo or Ellipse d’Or from Patek Philippe. The American 1921 is likely to
increase in value more quickly than these others, but it would be
a pity to regard this watch solely as an investment to hide in a
bank vault for safekeeping. This is a beautiful wristwatch that
should be worn and admired.
VACHERON’S
CALIBER VC
4400 BEARS
THE GENEVA
HALLMARK,
AND ITS HUGE
BARREL CAN
STORE UP TO
65 HOURS OF
POWER.
All the subassemblies in
Caliber VC 4400 are
easily accessible to a
watchmaker.
December 2009 WatchTime 136