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SOUTH AMERICA
PERU
BO LIVIA
ECUADOR & THE GALAPAGOS
CO LO MBIA
VENEZUELA
GUYANA
THE CARIBBEAN
BRAZIL
PARAGUAY
URUGUAY
ARGENTINA
CHILE
THE FALKLAND ISLANDS
ANTARCTICA
TA I LO R - M A D E J O U R N E Y S
FOR
THE
D I S C E R N I N G T RAV E LL E R
Dear Traveller
There’s something about the exuberance and
passion of South America that gets into the
blood and makes me want to go back again
and again to experience more.
It is a vast and staggeringly diverse
continent. From exploring remote Inca
ruins to relaxing on heavenly beaches,
trekking across deserts to visiting remote
Andean communities, learning the tango to
drinking fine New World wines, South
America is full of variety. It's a continent
of amazing wildlife, dramatic scenery and
mighty rivers with a fascinating human
story printed on it.
Planning a trip here requires first-hand
experience. Our specialists have travelled
extensively within South America, seen the
hotels that we recommend and experienced
the tours. They are also aware of the pitfalls
of travelling in this developing area of the
world. Many of the team have also lived,
worked and studied across the continent
enabling them to understand the cultural
differences. Combined with their enthusiasm
and passion they are able to advise exactly
how travel ‘works’ here.
This brochure covers South America from
top to toe, including classic destinations and
itineraries, as well as ‘off the beaten track’
and specialised trips to match specific
interests. It is a collection of our team’s
favourite places and a collation of their years
of experience working with the region. I hope
this shines through on the following pages,
inspiring you to take an unforgettable trip to
this amazing part of the world.
Craig Burkinshaw
Managing Director
Introducing Audley
udley was founded by Craig Burkinshaw after he developed a passion for travel in the
early 1990s. This enthusiasm turned into a determination to make it possible for others
to share the same experience and, from these small beginnings, the company was born. Audley
offers a new type of travel experience – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s
interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity and
a passion for travel. Today Audley is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour
operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin
America, Australasia, Antarctica and the Arctic, Canada and Alaska.
A
Tailor-made travel
Planning your trip
The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every
trip is unique. Whether you want to stay in
simple or luxurious accommodation, have great
guides on hand or explore under your own
steam, travel for one week or five, we can create
a trip to match your tastes and budget. We can
also create trips for a special occasion, where
added touches can change an adventurous
journey into a spectacular honeymoon,
anniversary or birthday celebration. Your trip can
also be tailored to particular interests such as
wildlife, photography, ethnography or architecture
and we have the specialist knowledge to match.
Throughout the brochure you will find suggested
itineraries together with details on some of our
favourite hotels, lodges and boats. These are
included purely to offer inspiration and give you
a flavour of what is possible as each journey is
created individually to give you the opportunity
to experience a destination in exactly the way
you choose.
Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if
you just want some general guidance, please
call one of our South America specialists on
01993 838 600. They can offer advice and
discuss your plans with you, before creating a
detailed itinerary, which will be forwarded to you
together with maps, accommodation information,
colour photographs and a price. Your specialist
can then continue to refine the plans until you
are completely satisfied. They will be on hand
from the start of the planning process to your
return and are always available to answer
questions and offer sound advice.
Specialist knowledge
Our South America specialists have all travelled
throughout the continent, so you can rely on their
extensive first-hand knowledge. They regularly
return to see the accommodation, meet our
guides – many of whom are firm friends –
experience all the excursions and activities, and
keep up-to-date with local developments. They
pride themselves on having an honest ‘tell it how
it is’ approach to planning your trip and, as well as
their own extensive knowledge, they are able to
draw on the considerable collective experience
of their colleagues. We believe this approach is
unique to Audley and the only way we can
genuinely offer you a tailor-made service.
Financial security
All travel arrangements in this brochure that
include a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil
Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817.
Please see our booking conditions for more
information. If your arrangements do not include
any flights they are protected by a separate
financial scheme, for further details visit
www.audleytravel.com/protect
Contents
Introduction
Peru
The Amazon
2-7
8-23
24-25
Bolivia
26-31
Ecuador & The Galapagos
32-43
Colombia
44-47
Venezuela
48-51
Guyana, Suriname &
French Guiana
52-53
The Caribbean
54-55
Central America,
Mexico & Cuba
56-57
Brazil
58-75
Paraguay
76-77
Uruguay
78-79
Argentina
80-97
Patagonia
98-99
Chile
100 -115
The Falkland Islands
116-119
Antarctica
120-122
Useful Information
123
Experience
South America
he South American continent never fails to inspire the traveller with its iconic cities,
breathtaking landscapes, ancient ruins, lush tropical forests and passionate, friendly
people. From the soaring mountains of the Andes to the pampas of Argentina, its indigenous
Indian population to the descendants of European colonists, South America’s diversity
includes staggering landscapes and wildlife, a rich and vibrant culture and an endlessly
fascinating history. Whether you’re an archaeology buff, an outdoor adventurer, wildlife
enthusiast or culture aficionado the continent presents so many travel options that it will
make your head spin.
T
Boys with lamb, Peru
Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina
History
Culture
Empires, explorers, conquistadores, wars of
independence, revolutions, juntas, larger-than-life
figures and coups – South America’s history has
unfolded with characteristic passion and drama
over the years. However, evidence suggests that
life in South America actually began rather
sedately with pockets of Asian settlers establishing
small communities many thousands of years ago,
around what today is known as Peru and the
deltas of the Orinoco and Amazon rivers.
The dozen countries that make up South America
share a common legacy; the cultural footprint of
their colonial rulers. But whilst this influence of
their past is readily visible, each country has, to
different degrees, retained its own diverse
indigenous traditions. These are primarily defined
by the native cultures of people who inhabited
the continent prior to the arrival of Europeans –
descendants of the Incas, traditional Andean
communities such as Quechua and Aymara and
countless Amazonian tribes. Music and dance, in
many places, is synonymous with African slaves
whose descendants remained in South America
after liberation from the Spanish and Portuguese.
The colonial era itself has left an important
cultural mark with its architecture, and of course
its languages.
When Christopher Colombus established his
first settlement in the ‘New World’ in 1498
several civilisations had already risen and fallen.
Many had survived in seemingly inhospitable
deserts, impenetrable jungle and on remote
Andean peaks. Colombus’ arrival initiated the
colonial period and, followed by Spanish
conquistadores and Portuguese colonisers,
bloody battles ensued with the Incas and their
contemporaries until European dominance altered
every aspect of the continent. Despite this, many
traditions have thankfully survived and native
languages are still spoken today, providing a
unique fusion of old and new at every turn.
Since their independence (generally during the
19th century) most countries have experienced
varying degrees of political turmoil which has left
the continent with a fascinating modern history. It
is a credit to the people of South America today
that, despite all of this, they remain open, warm
and friendly to visitors and stubbornly passionate
about their heritage.
Machu Picchu, Peru
4
Spanish and Portuguese are naturally spoken by
the majority of South Americans. However, the
Quechua and Aymara languages and their
numerous dialects are widespread across the
Andes. It is estimated that over 200 dialects are
spoken by tribes inhabiting the Amazon basin, but
no exact figure has ever been derived. Elsewhere
you will come across countless pockets of other
languages including English, Creole, Dutch, French
and even a small community in Argentina that
speaks Welsh.
Catholicism is the predominant religion in South
America, with around 80% of the population
practicing today. It is impossible to miss the vast
array of churches and cathedrals; some crumbling
into a sorry state of disrepair, others housing
ornate and detailed gold-gilded altars.
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
The Andes
The Andes is the world’s longest continual
mountain chain, stretching for over 7,000
kilometres along the length of the South
American continent. Starting in Venezuela and
Colombia where they overlook the Caribbean,
they are at their most volatile throughout Ecuador
and home to deserts and salt lakes in Bolivia.
Mighty condors swoop over canyons, farmers
tend to terraces clinging to the sides of snowcapped peaks and stratas of rocks are carpeted
with an enormous palatte of colour. In Chile and
Argentina impossibly blue lakes shelter beneath
towering mountains, whose slopes provide ideal
conditions for vineyards. Continuing south the
peaks give way to the vast Patagonia region
where mysterious glacial fields end dramatically
and ancient fjords, channels and woodlands
provide the perfect setting for unforgettable
adventure cruises. The mountain range finally
comes to rest, crumbling into the wild open
oceans around Tierra del Fuego.
The most famous Andean residents were
arguably the Incas, borne out of small
communities around Lake Titicaca. They
created one of the most powerful empires in
South America leaving vast archaeological ruins
and citadels across Ecuador, Colombia, Peru
and Bolivia.
Forests and Wetlands
Over five million square kilometres of South
America’s land mass is covered by the tropical
rainforest of the Amazon basin. This utopia of
biodiversity contains over one third of the entire
planet’s bird and plant species, 10% of mammals
and an immeasurable number of insects. As these
sultry forests meet the Andes they ascend into
cooler, lush cloudforest regions, home to
hundreds of species of tropical bird. On flatter
territory the rainforest gives way to vast plains
where cattle and cowboys co-exist with wild
birds, caiman, capybara and large cats. In some
areas, enormous table-top mountains emerge
from these wetlands creating mysterious,
pre-historic looking landscapes.
Iguazú Falls, Argentina
01993 838 600
●
Introduction 5
Experience South America
Sea lions, Galapagos Islands
Moai, Easter Island
Islands and Beaches
Food
South America is shaped by three major bodies
of water: the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and the
Caribbean Sea. The rugged Pacific coastline,
stretching the entire western side of the
continent, provides the perfect environment for
an abundance of wildlife, the pinnacle of which is
undoubtedly the Galapagos Islands off the coast
of Ecuador. Volatile volcanoes have created vast
lava fields which are home to hundreds of sea
lions, albatross, boobies, giant tortoises and
iguanas that have evolved over centuries and
today show little fear of humans. The remainder
of this coastline is home to windswept beaches
and jagged, rocky cliff lines.
Long before Europeans arrived in South America,
the native populations knew how to cultivate an
incredible array of plants. They grew corn, lima
beans, potatoes, sweet potatoes, quinoa, chilli
peppers, avocados, peanuts, cacao, and raised
llamas and guinea pigs. When the Europeans
arrived, they incorporated some of these native
ingredients into their own cuisine. They took the
new foods back to Europe, and they brought
European foods such as pigs, chickens, citrus
trees, wheat and almonds to South America.
Today, cuisine in most Andean countries is still
primarily based around corn, potatoes and bean
products. In many cities across the continent it
is common to find chefs showcasing these
Andean products and alpaca meat, quinoa and
unusual tubers such as yucca in new and
sophisticated ways.
Meanwhile, with over 7,000 kilometres of
coastline, Brazil has an endless succession of
beaches in secluded coves, and the coastline is
dotted with off-shore islands in the south and
backed by enormous sand dunes in the north.
Along the northern shore of the continent the
Caribbean laps soothingly over picture postcard
white-sand beaches along the coasts of Venezuela
and Colombia. A short distance off the mainland
of these countries, white sandbanks merge into
small archipelagos providing idyllic, relaxing
getaways for the end of a trip.
Travelling Around
Journeys around South America are astoundingly
varied. Although distances can be vast, trips do
not have to be spent in airport lounges or on
endless road journeys. Short flights, spectacular
train journeys, expedition cruises, ferry crossings,
self-drive, trekking, horseback riding, biking and
public transport are all means that we use to
travel between destinations within the continent.
Encountering friendly and inquisitive locals and
witnessing the spectacular scenery en route will
make your trip all the more memorable.
Fernando de Noronha, Brazil
6
In the southern part of the continent meat and
fish are more prominent. Brazil has arguably the
most diverse cuisine thanks a number of factors
such as its sheer size and ability to grow a variety
of crops as well as its traditional cooking
techniques which have been influenced by its
African and Asian populations. Argentines are
famed for their diet of beef. Grilled meat from
the asado (barbecue) is a staple, with steak and
beef ribs especially common. Chorizo (pork
sausage), morcilla (blood sausage) and mollejas
(sweetbread), are also enjoyed. In Patagonia, lamb
and chivito (goat) are eaten more than beef.
Drink
Traditional South American beverages are just
as distinct as the foods. Popular drinks include
maté (soaked dried leaves of the local yerba maté
plant), pisco (a Quechan liquor distilled from
grapes) and chicha (an alcoholic maize or
yuca-based drink usually drunk in the Amazon
basin). A more recent addition to Argentina and
Chile’s drinks list is wine. The cool, sunny slopes
of the Andes provide ideal growing conditions
for many grapes (although malbec is the most
renowned) and the region is now a major player
in the global wine market. As for cocktails, the
most famous is Brazil’s caipirinha. Made with
cachaça, lime and sugar, it is dangerously delicious.
Atacama Desert, Chile
Festivals
South Americans like to party. This combined
with their allegiance to many traditions result in
numerous colourful festivals throughout the year.
The most famous is Carnival which takes place
annually in February. Although celebrated across
the continent, Brazil is the ultimate flag bearer
with its lavish, colourful processions, street
music and samba dancers who party solidly for
three days.
In the Andes, the most significant festival is Inti
Raymi, celebrating the summer solstice. For the
entire week, locals celebrate with large
barbecues, parades, traditional dances, and
bonfires. In Peru, it takes over Cuzco and
transforms the Sacsayhuamán ruins overlooking
the city into a majestic stage.
Our glossary
There are some South American terms that
you will frequently come across in this
brochure. Here is our quick guide to some
of the vocabulary used across the continent.
Altiplano – meaning 'high plain', this
geographical description refers to the
swathes of wild and bleak land that lie at
over 4,000 metres, in the cordilleras of Peru,
Bolivia, Chile and Argentina.
Cordillera – a name given to parts of
the Andes where the mountains split into
parallel ranges.
Pampas – vast and flat alluvial plains that
spread out from Buenos Aires and is where
much of Argentina's famous cattle farming
takes place.
Gaucho – the Argentine cowboy, gauchos
are the men who work on horseback on
the farms.
Estancia – term used in Argentina,
Chile, Uruguay, and Paraguay to describe a
large family-owned rural estate. They have
historically always been a livestock (cattle or
sheep) farm but many have now opened
their doors to visitors (see page 86).
Hacienda – similar to an estancia but
associated with Ecuador (see feature on page
35) and Colombia. They usually have a
broader range of agricultural ventures such as
the harvesting of grain, coffee, vegetables and
livestock farming. Coffee producing estancias
in Colombia are often called ‘fincas’.
Fazenda – refers to a large plantation in
Brazil. At their peak during the colonial
period, most were located in the northeast
of the country. They were responsible for a
huge number of slaves arriving in the country,
resulting in a diverse culture in this region of
the country today.
Posada/Pousada (Spanish/Portuguese
spelling) – the name traditionally given to a
small, family-run hotel, often with a
personalised level of service. Today, the
name is attached to many hotels across the
continent, which do not always necessarily
meet this criteria!
Barrios – Spanish word meaning
‘neighbourhood’ or ‘district’.
Favela – the general term used for a shanty
town in Brazil. The name ‘favela’ comes from
the tree commonly found on the side of hills
in sub-tropical regions. As favelas are also
often found on the sides of hills, the slang
term ‘favela’ was formed.
Asado – the technique for cooking
numerous cuts of meat (usually beef),
which are cooked on a grill (parrilla) or open
fire. Also the word used to refer to the
meal itself.
Churrascaria – Brazilian or Portuguese
steakhouse, churrasco is the cooking style,
which translates roughly from the Portuguese
for ‘barbecue’.
Rio Carnival, Brazil
01993 838 600
●
Introduction 7
Peru
t’s little wonder Peru features highly on
the destination wish-list of most visitors
to South America. Its diverse attractions –
a wealth of stunningly located ancient
remains, a hugely varied landscape from
Andean peaks to Amazon rainforest, and a
colourful culture – offer a fantastic taste of
more or less all that the continent has to
offer. A compelling history that spans
I
8
thousands of years and countless
civilizations from 2000 BC to the bloody
conquest by the Spanish in 1535, has left the
Peru of today with a myriad of fascinating
ancient sites. These man-made wonders are
set against a breathtaking backdrop of
snow-capped mountains, sapphire lakes,
terraced fields in all shades of green and
gold, and emerald forested slopes that
tumble down into the Amazon basin.
Peru holds possibly the most famous site in
South America, the magnificent Inca citadel
of Machu Picchu, but whether your interest
lies in ancient ruins such as this, or in
trekking, wildlife or experiencing the
traditional culture and customs of its
indigenous people, Peru is a place that
will delight at each step of your journey.
Audley in Peru
Peru has an array of ‘must-see’ sights that
tend to be visited in a logical route. We
pride ourselves on being able to offer our
clients these classic journeys but also include
steps off the beaten track to make your trip
a more authentic and personal experience.
During our extensive travels throughout
the length and breadth of the country,
researching hotels and excursions, we have
discovered some options that will allow you
to escape the crowds just for a while, be it
a quiet lunch in a hacienda, a homestay on
Lake Titicaca, or a private Inca Trail walk.
4
9
1
To make the most of the country, and your
time, trips to Peru tend to be busy affairs
with plenty of early mornings and long days.
However, we can ensure that you have time
to rest, and also time to acclimatise to the
altitude. Internal flights (which tend to be
scheduled in the mornings, hence the need
for early starts) are used where necessary,
but wherever possible we prefer to make
use of the spectacular road and rail journeys
that link the main towns.
5
3
Tambopata
Reserve
2
7
1 Machu Picchu
6
The obvious highlight of Peru,
the ancient Inca citadel of
Machu Picchu has an incredible
location and fascinating history.
8
2 Cuzco
The charming city of Cuzco
with its cobbled streets and Inca
walls is a great place to explore
and people-watch.
3 The Sacred Valley of
the Incas
Stunning scenery with fantastic
examples of Inca ruins,
agricultural terracing and an
opportunity for an abundance
of outdoor activities such as
walking, rafting and cycling.
4 Pacaya Samiria
Reserve, Amazon
Cruise through one of the most
pristine areas of rainforest in the
Amazon basin, learning about
the flora, fauna and local
indigenous communities.
5 Southern Peruvian
Amazon
Readily accessible from Cuzco,
the Tambopata Reserve offers
everything from an introductory
Amazon experience through to
trips for avid wildlife enthusiasts.
Alternatively, for the most
adventurous birdwatcher, a trip
into the Manu Biosphere
Reserve is a must.
6 Lake Titicaca
The highest navigable lake in the
world, it is stunningly blue and
surrounded by snow-capped
Andean mountains.
7 Nazca Lines
A set of mysterious ancient
shapes carved into the desert,
only properly visible when
flying over them.
Accommodation
Peru has a wide choice of accommodation
that caters to all budgets. Our Peru
specialists have inspected hotels throughout
the country, and we have handpicked our
favourites. Peru’s colonial heritage manifests
itself in several fine hotels occupying
beautiful renovated buildings with excellent
locations. City properties range from
charming B&Bs through to renowned
luxury hotels, with rustic lodges offering
comfortable accommodation in some of
the more remote parts of the country.
Whatever your tastes we will endeavour to
tailor your accommodation to your budget
and preferences.
8 Colca Canyon
One of the deepest canyons
in the world, set amongst a
beautiful landscape and a great
place to spot Andean condors.
9 Kuelap
Shrouded in cloudforest, Kuelap
is an enormous pre-Inca site still
off the main tourist radar.
Train journeys
Three stunning and completely
scenically different rail journeys
can be taken as part of a trip
to Peru.
Find out more
For suggested itineraries and practical
information about travel in Peru, please
see pages 22-23.
www.audleytravel.com
Interactive maps and features,
further suggested itineraries,
accommodation, climate information
and articles written by our specialists.
☎ Discuss your plans with our Peru
specialists 01993 838 620
Local ladies, Cuzco
Peru 9
Plaza de Armas, Lima
Lima
Nazca & the South Coast
Hundreds of years ago Lima was reputed to be
the most beautiful city in all of Spanish America.
Even its biggest fans could not say the same
today, and the city can be something of a
challenge. It is, however, brimming with heritage
and can be a worthwhile stop for a night or two.
The main attractions are those that remain of the
colonial and Republican era, such as the bustling
Plaza de Armas with its grand Presidential Palace
and cathedral where the remains of Francisco
Pizarro, who conquered the Inca Empire for the
Spanish, are thought to be interred. The city’s
museums are worth exploring and will give you a
fascinating glimpse of the ancient cultures whose
remnants you will see later on your trip. The Inca
and pre-Inca ceramics at Larco Herrera and the
amazing collection of weapons and jewellery at
the Gold Museum are particularly impressive.
South of Lima, a huge monkey appears etched
in one continuous line into the barren landscape.
Other complex images include a hummingbird,
condor, spider and various geometric shapes.
These are the Nazca Lines, one of the world’s
most bewildering archaeological sites. Believed to
date back to 400 BC, their origin and purpose still
remain a mystery. The lines can be seen as part of
a day trip from Lima, flying from the capital to the
desert town of Ica where you will board a small
aircraft for the overflight.
Miraflores Park Plaza hotel
10
Hummingbird, Nazca Lines
ACCOMMODATION
IN
LIMA
Hotels in Lima are located mainly in two districts:
the cosmopolitan Miraflores with its bars,
restaurants and pretty parks that extend to the
cliffs overlooking the Pacific, and the more
residential district of San Isidro. These areas
contain a variety of charming, locally owned
places to stay such as the Antigua or Faraona
hotels as well as a range of four and five star
properties. For extended stays in the capital there
are some more characterful options such as the
Country Club in San Isidro, built in the 1930s in a
colonial style and decorated with a stylish mixture
of classical and Peruvian artwork. Alternatively,
the Miraflores Park Plaza offers sweeping views
along the Pacific coastline and is one of the best
accommodation options in the country.
With more time you can explore the region
further. Travelling south out of Lima by bus or
car, the Pan American Highway snakes through
a landscape of barren desert interspersed with
fertile valleys growing grapes for pisco. In addition
to taking a flight over the lines you can visit the
ancient mummies at a local museum in Ica, go
quad biking in sand dunes near Huacachina
lagoon or head down to the nearby Paracas
Nature Reserve. Here morning boat trips head
along the coast and past ‘La Candelabra’ etched
into the desert sand before arriving at the
Ballestas Islands, home to hordes of sea lions
and a wonderful variety of birdlife.
Farming near Nazca
Balconies, Lima
ACCOMMODATION AROUND
NAZCA AND THE SOUTH COAST
Accommodation around Ica and Nazca, such as
the Las Dunas Hotel and Hacienda Cantayo, is
fairly simple but is ideally located as a base for
both the Nazca Lines and Paracas Nature
Reserve. Newer, more luxurious hotels such as
the Libertador Luxury Collection, located closer
to Paracas are becoming more popular for our
clients. Paracas hotels operate boat trips to the
nearby Ballestas Islands and have their own
aircraft for flights over the Nazca Lines.
La Candelabra, Paracas Nature Reserve
Train Journeys
Peru’s spectacular rail journeys are in
themselves a major attraction of the
country and you will invariably embark on
at least one train voyage during your trip as
Machu Picchu is only reached by train
(unless you trek for four days). A variety of
services, from carriages with comfortable
seating and panoramic windows through to
the luxury Hiram Bingham train with fine
dining and entertainment, transport visitors
between Cuzco and the Sacred Valley of
the Incas, along the banks of the Urubamba
River, to the village of Aguas Calientes
below the ruins.
One of the country’s most impressive train
journeys is across the altiplano (high plain)
between Cuzco and Puno. Dramatic Andean
scenery, lush valleys and vast barren
landscapes keep passengers occupied for
the ten hour journey. This civilised affair
also includes a three-course lunch and
afternoon tea.
For the true train enthusiast, the Central
Andean Railway operates trains between
Lima and the Andean town of Huancayo.
This 12-hour journey ascends to over
15,000 feet (the second highest passenger
La Raya pass, Puno to Cuzco train
Train to Machu Picchu
railway in the world), with numerous
switchbacks, and passes through and over
a total of 60 tunnels and steel bridges.
Whatever your level of interest in trains is,
Peru offers visitors some wonderful
alternatives that showcase its dramatic,
natural scenery.
Pisco vineyard, near Ica
www.audleytravel.com/peru
●
01993 838 620
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Peru 11
Colca Canyon
Arequipa
The bustling ‘White City’ of Arequipa rests in the
shadow of El Misti, an ice-capped volcano, whose
peaks hold the tombs of young Inca girls sacrificed
to the Gods, and whose pale rocks were used by
the Spanish in the construction of the city below.
Arequipa is a useful place to begin the altitude
acclimatisation process, but is also interesting to
explore in its own right. The highlight is the Santa
Catalina convent, a miniature city within a city.
This peaceful haven, with russet, blue and
white-walled streets lined with bright geraniums
is still home to an order of nuns, 400 years after
it was built.
Arequipa’s most famous resident is Juanita, an Inca
girl whose body was discovered in the ice caps of
El Misti in 1995. Dated at around 550 years old,
this ‘ice maiden’ was remarkably well preserved
by the ice and she is seen today in the Museo
Santuarios de Altura, wrapped in the fine Inca
textiles that she was wearing the day she died.
Evenings in Arequipa are generally spent around
the bustling main square mingling with families
enjoying the cool, but dry, climate before dining
in one of the many fine restaurants which, for the
brave, are one of the best places to try one of
Peru’s most renowned delicacies, guinea pig.
ACCOMMODATION
COLCA CANYON
Andean condor
Colca Canyon
The road from Arequipa towards Colca leads
first through a rugged landscape, dominated by
volcanoes, and seemingly home only to wild llama
and vicuña. Finally you emerge into a fertile region
dotted with traditional villages where farming still
takes place on pre-Inca agricultural terraces. This
is the Colca Valley, and at its head is the Colca
Canyon, one of the deepest in the world. The
steep green canyon walls are home to majestic
Andean condors and an early morning excursion
to the ‘Condor’s Cross’ viewing platform will
hopefully allow you to see families of these
enormous birds nesting, scavenging and soaring
on the thermals above and below you.
A stay in the Colca Valley is a must to explore
the area fully and see the condors rising on the
morning thermals. There are a number of
charming, simple lodges located in the small town
of Chivay, such as the Pozo del Cielo, which are
perfectly placed for exploring the region. A little
more remote is the long-term Audley favourite,
the Colca Lodge. This rustic lodge is located at
the bottom of the valley next to the Colca River.
The private thermal springs and spa are a
particularly popular place to relax at the end of
the day. For the ultimate in privacy and comfort,
Casitas del Colca offers luxury rooms with
underfloor heating and private balconies with
heated plunge pools.
At dusk head to some of the thermal pools and
hot springs around the main village in the valley,
Chivay. Some of the hotels have private facilities
but there are a number of public baths in which
to relax after a busy day exploring the region.
Colca Lodge, Colca Canyon
12
IN THE
Santa Catalina convent, Arequipa
Plaza de Armas, Arequipa
Local man, Lake Titicaca
El Misti volcano near Arequipa
Taquile Island, Lake Titicaca
Lake Titicaca
Suasi Island
The bright blue waters of Lake Titicaca ripple
across the altiplano of Peru and Bolivia. Its shores
and islands, lapped by the chilly waters, are a
place of legends, ancient customs and colourful
dress, with the locals holding firmly to their
pre-Conquest traditions. The main town of Puno
is the base for exploring the sights of the area
from the Peruvian side of the lake. Many visitors
choose to take to the deep, icy waters by
motorboat and enjoy the stunning view as Puno
disappears behind you and the immense snowcapped Cordillera Real range of mountains in
Bolivia appear on the horizon.
Suasi is an idyllic and incredibly peaceful island
on the northern Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca.
It has the most spectacular views of the lake and
Bolivian Andean range and is a real retreat from
the day-trippers that visit the lake. A stay here is
a relaxing affair with the opportunity to undertake
some short walks, canoe on the lake or simply
enjoy the beauty of the area. There is one simple
lodge on the island, constructed of natural
materials with solar panels providing the hotel
with hot water and electricity.
A journey on the lake will take you to the floating
Uros Islands which feel springy underfoot as they
are made from the tortora reed that grows in the
area. Further out, on Taquile and Amantani
Islands, you can walk past terraces of lima beans,
maize and potatoes tended by shy locals, and
learn first-hand about the origins of their unusual
traditional dress and farming methods.
Away from the lake, staying in Puno allows you
to visit Sillustani to see some of the stone burial
towers (‘chullpas’) that have dotted the shores
since pre-Inca times.
Titilaka, Lake Titicaca
ACCOMMODATION
LAKE TITICACA
AROUND
Puno has a number of hotel options that can best
be described as functional. A handful of simple
properties, such as the Royal Inn, in the town
centre are ideally located for day trips on to the
lake and experiencing the vibrant evening nightlife
of the town. Driving out of Puno, a string of
hotels including the Casa Andina Private
Collection and Libertador line the shores of the
lake with many rooms having uninterrupted
views of the lake at sunset and sunrise.
Alternatively, it is possible to escape the town
completely, either by staying on Suasi Island or
heading down to the small luxury lodge of
Titilaka. Located on a secluded peninsula, this
exclusive hotels offers 18 ultra-modern,
contemporary suites overlooking the lake.
Facilities include a spa and a concierge team to
help organise your excursions in the region. If you
are heading into Bolivia you may wish to consider
a stay on Sun Island instead (see Page 28).
Local girl, Lake Titicaca
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Peru 13
Puno to Cuzco train
Across the Altiplano
Puno is the place to board the train to Cuzco.
This spectacular rail journey, on a comfortable
train with a restaurant, bar and viewing carriage,
takes around ten hours. The locomotive clambers
over the bleak altiplano, a land of snow-capped
peaks and herds of llama, before descending into
a lusher, greener valley. Here the track clings to
the side of the Vilcanota River as you pass adobe
villages and waving schoolchildren before arriving,
with klaxon blaring, in Cuzco. This journey also
operates in the reverse for those heading to Lake
Titicaca after Cuzco, and perhaps continuing to
Bolivia. There is also the option of taking this
wonderful journey by road instead. Travelling by
bus or car allows you to make a couple of stops,
at the ruins of Raqchi and the village of
Andahuaylillas, renowned for its lavishly
decorated church.
Cuzco
As the capital of the vast Inca empire and their
‘navel of the world’, Cuzco was a remarkable city,
reputedly built in the shape of a puma, full of
magnificent stone palaces and temples decorated
with gold. The Spanish were impressed, and so
instead of completely destroying it, they built
their colonial city atop the solid foundations.
Koricancha is a perfect example of this, with the
skilled stonework of the Inca’s Temple of the
Sun used to underpin a baroque church.
Today Cuzco is a proud and lively city with a
vibrant art scene, excellent museums and fine
restaurants. The elegant Plaza de Armas is at its
heart, and is the perfect place to stop, sit and
take in the sights around you. San Blas is the
bohemian arts district, where houses cling to the
steep cobbled streets and inside the craftsmen
are hard at work. It’s also worth spending a few
hours exploring some of Cuzco’s most fascinating
museums including the Inca and pre-Colombian
Art Museums.
CASA SAN BLAS, CUZCO
Occupying an 18th century adobe house that was
originally home to a succession of merchant and
artisan families, the Casa San Blas is located in the
heart of the bohemian quarter of Cuzco. In this
picturesque part of the city, just three blocks from
the main plaza, but quieter and calmer, it offers
excellent value with good sized rooms, some
with spectacular views of Cuzco.
HOTEL MONASTERIO, CUZCO
Built as a monastery in 1592 and converted in
1995 into a luxury hotel which is one of the
finest in South America, the Monasterio is a haven
of peace in the centre of Cuzco. The elegant
rooms and suites (some of which can be ‘oxygen
enriched’ if you are suffering from the altitude)
are decorated with fine works of religious art and
are set around flowery courtyards. The hotel
even has its own chapel, an ornate masterpiece.
The hills surrounding Cuzco are dotted with Inca
sites like Sacsayhuaman, an Inca ceremonial centre
and possibly the head of the Inca city planner’s
puma. Its massive interlocking stones are an
impressive sight, as are the views over the
terracotta roofs of the city below. It is also the
stunning backdrop to the colourful Inti Raymi
annual Sun Festival, held on 24th June.
Plaza de Armas, Cuzco
14
Hotel Monasterio, Cuzco
Moray, Sacred Valley of the Incas
Chinchero market, Sacred Valley of the Incas
Local girl, Sacred Valley of the Incas
HOTEL MAMASARA, CUZCO
A new hotel in Cuzco situated within walking
distance to the main Plaza de Armas. All 26
rooms are spacious with a homely feel. Located in
a modern building, the interior maintains Cuzco’s
colonial style with warm shades of purple and
red, and dark-wood furnishings giving this hotel
an elegant feel.
LA CASONA, CUZCO
This striking 16th century manor house was built
over an Inca palace and has been meticulously
restored as an exclusive 11-suite hotel combining
colonial charm and furnishings with contemporary
comforts and personalised service. The suites
surround a beautiful central courtyard and either
overlook the courtyard or have views over the
city. Each suite is furnished with antiques and
retains original architectural details, whilst offering
modern comforts.
The Sacred Valley of the Incas
Leaving Cuzco you travel by road to some of the
fascinating surrounding towns and villages in the
Sacred Valley of the Incas. This winding and fertile
valley between Pisac and Ollantaytambo was at
the spiritual and commercial heart of the Inca
empire. It is a beautiful, colourful and enchanting
area, guarded throughout by ancient Inca citadels
set high on the sides of the mountains. At Pisac,
evocative ruins display the precise stonework that
is the trademark of the Incas, and you will see
astronomical observation posts and ceremonial
baths fed by aqueducts. The equally striking
remnants of the sturdy fortress at Ollantaytambo
rear up at the end of the paved road between
Cuzco and the Sacred Valley, dominating the
town that was once an important administrative
centre for the Incas.
Another trademark of the Sacred Valley is the
colourful markets where you can barter with
traditionally dressed women for an array of
goods. The finest is the Sunday market in
Chinchero where threads are dyed and woven
in one of the local houses. Alternatively, visit the
nearby remains of the royal manor of the ruler
Tupac Inca Yupanqui. If Sunday does not fit into
your plans then the regular daily market at Pisac
is an excellent option.
Sacred Valley of the Incas
ACCOMMODATION
SACRED VALLEY
IN THE
There are some fine hotels dotted throughout
the Sacred Valley, and we recommend you have
at least one night staying here prior to travelling
to Machu Picchu or embarking on one of the
numerous treks on offer. Our favourites include
the simple La Casona in Yucay, the practical
Pakaritampu in Ollantaytambo and the charming
Sol y Luna near Urubamba. There is also a new
breed of more luxurious options in the valley
including Rio Sagrado and the Tambo del Inca.
Close to Chinchero are the unusual circular Inca
terraces of Moray, which are still used for farming
today. Nearby is Maras, where you can see the
busy salt workers extracting the mineral in a way
unchanged for generations since, legend has it, the
sun god hailed salt on the locals as a punishment
for rebelling against the Incas.
This beautiful part of Peru is also one of the
best areas for visitors seeking a wide range of
adventure activities including trekking (see page
16), horse riding, whitewater rafting and
mountain biking.
Hotel Pakaritampu, Sacred Valley of the Incas
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Peru 15
Dead Woman’s Pass on the Inca Trail
Walking and trekking
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For years the Sacred Valley has been the draw
for trekkers wanting to walk the famous Inca
Trail to Machu Picchu. However the options
extend far beyond this well trodden route and
there is now something on offer for walkers of
all levels seeking varying degrees of comfort.
When embarking on any Andean trek you will
need to be relatively fit and be properly
acclimatised prior to setting off. Unless
otherwise stated, most treks will involve
camping with limited facilities. However, we find
that the relative rigours of camp life are more
than rewarded by the freedom, astounding
sense of space and breathtaking scenery of the
Andes. Most treks are done in small groups,
although private treks can also be arranged.
The Inca Trail
No longer just the preserve of Inca messengers
and backpackers, this trail is a tough, but
ultimately rewarding trek, along the ancient
path that served as an avenue for news from
the rest of the Inca empire to Machu Picchu.
Along the route you will see many otherwise
inaccessible Inca ruins such as Runkuracay,
Phuyupatamarca and Wiñay Wayna, which help
put the whole essence of Machu Picchu into
more of a context. In addition, you will arrive
at the best view of Machu Picchu, from high
above at the Intipunku Sun Gate. We can offer
this trek on either a group or a private basis
and at different paces with a classic four day
trek and a gentler five day option.
16
KM104
KM104 is the perfect option for those who do
not feel up to a full Inca Trail trek but wish to
do a full day walk. This trek starts by alighting
the Machu Picchu train before it arrives at
Aguas Calientes and crossing the Urubamba
River to start the gradual climb to Wiñay
Wayna, the final significant Inca site before
Machu Picchu. Lunch is taken en route and this
option still provides that incredible first view
from the Sun Gate.
Salkantay
Known as the ‘alternative Inca Trail’ Salkantay
offers walkers a far less hiked route to Machu
Picchu over the course of four days. It has a
stunning array of landscapes, including the
snow-capped peaks of Humantay and
Salkantay, Andean farming communities and
the small Inca site of Q’ente before descending
to a hydro-electric station on the Urubamba
River and walking to Aguas Calientes.
Mountain Lodges of Peru
An innovative trek that follows a similar route
to the Salkantay Trek but instead of camping
in tents, guests stay in comfortable lodges
with en-suite facilities, hot water and good
dining. This trek is walked at a gentler pace
than others, lasting seven days in total including
acclimitisation walks from the first lodge.
Choquequirao
This challenging five day trek takes walkers
off the beaten track to the vast Inca site of
Choquequirao. Often referred to as the ‘cradle
of gold’, archaeologists believe it may be up to
five times the size of Machu Picchu. The route
takes a dramatic descent to the Apurimac
River canyon before climbing to a vast plateau
on which the ruins sit. The route is a ‘there
and back again’ trek, but for the really
adventurous it is possible to continue on to
Machu Picchu, a tough twelve day trek.
Huchuy Qosqo
A beautiful and relatively unknown site right
in the heart of the Sacred Valley, Huchuy
Qosqo can be reached on a one day walk or
longer two day option departing from just
outside Cuzco. The route takes walkers
through dramatic Andean scenery with
stunning views down to Pisac and Urubamba
in the lush Sacred Valley below.
Lares
An excellent alternative to the Inca Trail,
the Lares trek takes walkers from the Sacred
Valley along original Inca routes, through
spectacular scenery, rural communities and
free roaming herds of llama and alpaca. Ending
in the small town of Lares, renowned for its
thermal springs, walkers head back to the
Sacred Valley by vehicle for their onward trip
to Machu Picchu by train.
Machu Picchu
Wayra Lodge, Mountain Lodges of Peru trek
View from Huayna Picchu
Wiñay Wayna ruins
Machu Picchu
Hidden from the world until the American
explorer Hiram Bingham reported the ruins in
1911, this magnificent citadel is one of South
America’s most famous sights. Machu Picchu rests
on a saddle between two lushly forested peaks,
and its inaccessible location makes it all the more
impressive. Well preserved and largely intact, as
you walk between these imposing palaces,
temples, houses and storerooms it is easy to
imagine the city at the height of the Inca empire.
You reach the site by trekking or by means of an
astounding train journey from Cuzco or the
Sacred Valley which delivers you into the small
town of Aguas Calientes in the valley below, and
then take a bus journey up the windy road cut
into the side of the mountain. Once at the site,
your guide will ensure that you thoroughly
explore and will share some of the many theories
ACCOMMODATION
AGUAS CALIENTES
IN
The small village of Aguas Calientes is the most
popular place to stay when spending time at
Machu Picchu. The regular bus service between
the village and ruins gives you access to Machu
Picchu for the entire day, so time at the site is
not compromised by staying here.
Inkaterra, Aguas Calientes
on the positioning and function of of the citadel.
An overnight stay at Machu Picchu or Aguas
Calientes is highly recommended, allowing you
time to return to the site early in the morning
before the vast majority of visitors arrive, and
the opportunity to climb Huayna Picchu for a
breathless, but wonderful alternative view of
the site below.
MACHU PICCHU SANCTUARY
LODGE, MACHU PICCHU
Located in an enviable position close to the
entrance to the citadel of Machu Picchu, the
Sanctuary Lodge is an Orient Express property
that offers high quality accommodation and
service. Staying here comes with a high price tag,
but it avoids additional travelling time at the start
and end of the day to get to the ruins.
The most renowned hotel in the village is the
Inkaterra. A mix of calm, comfort and natural
beauty on the edge of the village, accommodation
is in whitewashed cottages set in 12 acres of
cloudforest grounds with orchid gardens and
several ecological trails. For visitors seeking a
more functional high quality hotel then the
Sumaq is an excellent alternative. Situated closer
to the ruins than the Inkaterra and with its own
private bus stop, it is extremely service-focussed
providing a high level of comfort for guests
who still prefer to spend most of their time at
the ruins.
Aguas Calientes also offers a wide range of simple
guesthouses although the standard and service
can be changeable. The new Inkaterra-owned
El Mapi hotel is fast becoming an Audley favourite
in this category, offering affordable rooms with a
consistent level of service.
Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge
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Peru 17
Sandoval Lake, Tambopata Reserve
The Peruvian Amazon
Tambopata Reserve
There are two easily accessible tracts of Amazon
rainforest in Peru. In the south of the country, the
Tambopata and Manu Biosphere Reserves are
just a 30 minute flight from Cuzco. Stays in the
southern Peruvian Amazon tend to be based in
comfortable lodges where expert naturalist guides
will lead you through well-marked trails or take
you out on paddle canoes, pointing out wildlife
and explaining the medicinal properties of the
endemic plant species.
The sleepy frontier town of Puerto Maldonado
is the most popular starting point for Amazon
trips in Peru. Characteristics of the jungle here
include meandering rivers and ox-bow lakes,
which are thriving with animal life. On the banks
of the rivers just outside the town it is not
uncommon to spot foraging capybara, whilst
companies of parrots can be found feeding on
clay licks hidden in creeks. A couple of the
world’s most bizarre-looking creatures are also
resident here – the tapir, with its spiky mane, and
the pre-historic hoatzin bird, which hops around
the edges of the numerous lakes.
The northern Peruvian Amazon is reached by
flights from Lima via the city of Iquitos, which is the
boarding place for some excellent cruise options.
SANDOVAL LAKE LODGE
Beautifully located on an ox-bow lake of the same
name where a family of giant otters have set up
home, Sandoval Lake Lodge has 25 rustic rooms
and offers a great insight into the Amazonian
environment. Excursions are undertaken in small
groups to spot wildlife along trails, across the lake
and up a canopy tower. The lodge is owned by a
non-profit making conservation group and five
indigenous families of Brazil nut collectors.
cabins. Within easy reach are a macaw clay lick,
ox-bow lakes with giant otters and the largest
untouched savannah plain in the Amazon basin.
Six monkey species and 480 species of bird have
been recorded in the vicinity of the lodge.
TAMBOPATA RESEARCH CENTRE
The Tambopata Research Centre (TRC) has
just 13 basic lodgings, for both visitors and
researchers, and is located opposite the world’s
largest macaw clay lick. The centre is composed
of four connected thatch roof buildings, built in
a low-impact native style and the bedrooms are
designed to have an unobstructed view of the
forest, thus maximising wildlife spotting
opportunities. TRC is very remote but is one of
the most spectacular places to spot wildlife in the
southern Peruvian Amazon. It is so remote that
guests need to stop for the night at the Refugio
Amazonas Lodge en route there and back.
HEATH RIVER LODGE
Heath River is located four hours away by boat
from Puerto Maldonado on the river dividing Peru
and Bolivia. It is situated in the middle of a large
area of pristine rainforest and has just ten private
Yellow-crowned green parrot
18
Tambopata Research Centre
Giant river otter
Blue and gold macaw, Tambopata Reserve
Squirrel monkey
Manu Biosphere Reserve
The Manu Biosphere Reserve is renowned as one
of the most bio-diverse regions in the world, and
it is certainly the most wildlife-rich area of the
Amazon that is accessible to visitors. It is a vast
and pristine wilderness encompassing 1.8 million
hectares of grasslands, cloudforest and tropical
lowlands, with an incredible diversity of flora and
fauna. Visitors have a high chance of spotting giant
river otter, jaguar and ocelot, and over 1,000
species of bird have been recorded. The park is
accessed from Cuzco, and can be reached either
by a quick, exhilarating ride in a light aircraft to
the airstrip at Boca Manu, deep within the
reserve, or by a two day road and river journey.
Trips to Manu are operated on a group basis,
with departures from Cuzco on certain days of
the week. We only use reputable operators, as
logistics can be susceptible to weather conditions,
and prices are higher than for trips to other
Peruvian Amazon areas. We recommend a
minimum of six days to make the most of this
incredible area, and travel to the reserve is best
between April and October when rainfall is lower.
ACCOMMODATION
IN
MANU
If you travel into Manu by road you will stay
en route at the Cock of the Rock Lodge in the
cloudforest, which gives the rare chance to see
the colourful eponymous birds, and Amazonia
Lodge, another prime birdwatching location.
Accommodation deep in the tropical area of
Manu will be in one of a number of remote
lodges, or a campsite. The Manu Wildlife Centre
is a basic lodge with an excellent position close to
a large mammal lick and a macaw lick where an
astounding 550 bird species have been recorded,
while Manu Lodge is located by an ox-bow lake
that is home to giant river otter and black and
white caiman. There are also tented camps for
those who wish to take a longer river trip.
Reserva Amazonica
RESERVA AMAZONICA
The most comfortable of all Tambopata’s lodges
is situated on the banks of the Madre de Dios
River. A private ecological reserve and research
centre that occupies 10,000 hectares,
accommodation is provided in 38 private cabins
and six suites which are built from local materials.
There is also a canopy treehouse in which
guests can spend a night. All cabins have private
bathrooms, mosquito netting and a terrace
with hammocks.
Cock of the rock
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Peru 19
Sunrise over the Amazon
Iquitos and the
Northern Amazon
DELFIN I
AND
II
The Delfins I and II are sister ships that offer three
and four night cruises from the town of Nauta into
the Pacaya Samiria Reserve. The Delfin I was the
first quality boat to offer voyages in this region and
carries just 16 passengers in air-conditioned cabins
with panoramic views of the surrounding rainforest.
The traditional layout of the boat provides an
intimate and authentic experience for sailing into
the reserve. The Delfin II is a more recent addition
to the fleet and is a 28 passenger, all-suite vessel
offering space and high levels of comfort whilst
operating a similar itinerary.
Not only the starting point for wildlife trips into
the northern part of the Peruvian jungle, Iquitos
itself is worth a look as it is the epitome of a
steamy Amazon city. Hemmed in by lakes, rivers
and green forest on all sides, the only way in or
out is by boat or plane. This part of the rainforest
is home to ancient Amazonian tribes as well as
an immense variety of wildlife, including the
mysterious river dolphins which glide in and out
of the small backwater creeks.
Delfin II
M/V A Q U A
Cruises in the
Northern Amazon
Iquitos has seen a positive increase in visitor
numbers over recent years, largely due to the
start up of quality cruise vessels heading into the
pristine Pacaya Samiria Reserve. With its rich
array of flora and fauna and indigenous
communities it is well worth the two and a half
hour flight from Lima. Three, four or seven night
cruises can be taken from Iquitos or the small
town of Nauta, the frontier town to the reserve.
Expedition vessels carry between 16 and 28
passengers and, with experienced naturalist
guides, fine dining and air-conditioned cabins, it is
one of the most comfortable ways to experience
the splendours of the Amazon basin.
Amazon river dolphin
20
The M/V Aqua has 12 luxury suites finished to the
highest standard and boasting outward-facing 180
degree panoramic windows. There is a large dining
room serving food prepared by renowned Lima
chefs, an indoor lounge, and a covered observation
deck to watch the world sail by. The vessel
operates three, four and seven night itineraries.
Suite, M/V Aqua
Trujillo
Chan Chan
Kuelap
Chachapoyas
Royal Tomb of Lord Sipan
Northern Peru
The little visited northern areas of Peru are
notable for their unique cultural and
archaeological highlights. These ancient sites and
the nearby colonial towns are a fascinating insight
into the country’s pre-Inca heritage and
tempestuous colonial history. From the bustling
city of Trujillo, with its spacious plaza and colonial
houses, you can explore the pre-Inca city of Chan
Chan. This is the largest adobe city in the world
and was once capital of the Chimu empire, where
you will find the remains of their palaces, temples
and gardens. Travelling north, stop at El Brujo
where the walls are sculpted with colourful
images of armies and giant spiders, before arriving
at Chiclayo and the nearby royal tombs of the
Moche culture, which thrived from about 600
AD. Here the Lord of Sipan was discovered in a
tomb filled with treasure, his remains are now in
the nearby Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum.
Heading seven hours inland from Chiclayo by
road, you can take a stunning journey over the
Andean range into the Chachapoyas region. At its
heart lies the sleepy village of Tingo above which
sits the vast and rarely visited pre-Inca walled city
of Kuelap. Discovered around 60 years before
Machu Picchu it remains relatively unknown to
the outside world. The external block wall is over
600 metres in length and up to 19 metres in
height. Inside there are 400 cylindrical structures
synonymous with the Chachapoyan civilisation.
Rectangular structures suggest that the Incas also
occupied this site prior to falling to the Spanish.
Travelling in the Chachapoyas region offers many
other surprises including the burial tombs in
Cajamarca
Revash, the world’s third highest waterfall at
Gocta and the historical town of Cajamarca which
is renowned for its graceful colonial architecture.
We can arrange trips of various lengths to this
region of Peru on set departures as part of a
small group or completely tailor-make an itinerary
to include your preferred sites of interest.
HOSTAL EL CHILLO,
NEAR KUELAP
This friendly country hostal consists of 14 rustic
and charming rooms, an unheated freshwater
pool and small attractive gardens where
hummingbirds are frequent visitors. Located just
outside the village of Tingo, it is a perfect place
to relax after exploring Kuelap.
Kuelap
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Peru 21
Lima
Sacred Valley
of the Incas
Machu
Picchu
Cuzco
Incas Uncovered
A classic trip focussing on the heart of the Inca
empire, exploring Lima, the unique fusion of
Spanish colonial and Inca architecture in Cuzco,
the beautiful Sacred Valley of the Incas and
Machu Picchu.
Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that
work particularly well. We can use these as a
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.
Please call one of our Peru specialists to start
planning your itinerary.
Telephone: 01993 838 620
Getting around
Despite being a large country, travelling around
Peru is relatively straightforward, with a good
network of internal flights, decent roads where
overland travel is required, and some spectacular
rail journeys. The country is also well-connected
to its neighbours and other South American
countries for those wishing to visit more than
one country on their trip.
When to go
Jan
✓
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
✓
✓
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Lima.
Day 2
Enjoy a guided tour of the highlights
of Lima.
Day 3
Fly to Cuzco. Afternoon to relax and
acclimitise to the altitude.
Day 4
of Cuzco and nearby Inca ruins.
Day 5
Free time to further explore Cuzco.
Day 6
Take a trip into the Sacred Valley
visiting Inca ruins and colourful
local markets.
Day 7
Take the train to Machu Picchu,
spend the afternoon exploring
the site.
Day 8
Further explorations of the site
before taking the afternoon train
back to Cuzco.
Day 9
Fly to Lima, and then back to the UK.
Day 10
Arrive in the UK.
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓
✓
✓
✓✓ The best time to travel.
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
~
Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
✕
Travel is not recommended.
Peru can be visited all year round, although the
peak season for visiting the Andean areas is
between April and October during the drier,
summer months. Outside of this period it can be
rainy, with January and February typically being the
wettest months, although this does offer the
advantage of fewer visitors, greener scenery and
abundant flora, including orchids at Machu Picchu.
The Amazon is generally hot, wet and humid year
round although the drier months again tend to be
between April and October. Some Amazon
lodges close outside of these months. The Inca
Trail is closed to walkers during February.
Stay longer
Include KM104, walking the last four to six
hours along the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.
With a couple of extra days it is possible to
take the train across the alitplano to Puno
and visit Lake Titicaca.
Time difference: GMT-5 hours
Flight time from UK: 16 hours
Prices
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
for your trip to Peru on our website, alternatively
please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
Lady and child, Arequipa
22
Machu Picchu
Suggested itineraries
Chachapoyas
Kuelap
Chiclayo
Lima
Machu
Picchu
Sacred Valley
of the Incas
Sacred Valley Puerto
of the Incas
Maldonado
Machu
Picchu
Cuzco
Lima
Cuzco
Trujillo
Lima
Puno
Arequipa
Sacred Valley
of the Incas
Machu
Picchu
Cuzco
Colca Canyon
Classic Peru
Amazon and Incas
Ancient Cultures of Peru
This trip takes in Peru in all its wonderful diversity.
It is a full but rewarding itinerary that makes use of
many of the great road and rail journeys between
iconic destinations such as Lake Titicaca, Cuzco
and Machu Picchu.
This itinerary focuses on the natural wonder of the
Amazon and the man-made wonders of the Incas.
Explore the steamy rainforest from a comfortable
lodge before heading up into the Andes to embark
on the trek of a lifetime to Machu Picchu, where
you can spend a full day exploring with your guide.
For those with a specific archaeological interest,
this tour visits the complex cultures of the
northern deserts and the enigmatic giant patterns
of the Nazca Lines before arriving at the incredible
Inca cities of the Andes. It is a full exploration of
the country’s fascinating pre-Conquest history.
Day 1
Day 1
Day 2
Day 2
Fly to Arequipa. Afternoon to relax
and acclimatise to the altitude.
Fly to Puerto Maldonado, transfer by
motorised canoe to your lodge.
A tour of Lima including a visit to the
Larco Herrera Museum.
Days 3-4
Day 3
Enjoy a guided tour of the beautiful
colonial centre of Arequipa.
Guided excursions from your
Amazon lodge.
Full day flight to the mysterious
Nazca Lines.
Day 5
Travel back to Puerto Maldonado
and fly to Cuzco. Afternoon to relax
and acclimatise to the altitude.
Day 4
Fly to Trujillo. Afternoon excursion to
the temples of the Sun and Moon.
Day 5
Day 6
Explore Cuzco’s museums, churches,
streets and nearby Inca ruins.
Drive north towards Chiclayo visiting
the vast pre-Inca site of Chan Chan
and ancient monument of El Brujo.
Day 7
A free day to further explore Cuzco.
Day 6
Day 8
Travel by road into the Sacred Valley
of the Incas, visiting colourful markets
and Inca ruins.
Visit the tomb of Lord Sipan and the
Royal Tombs of Sipan museum.
Day 7
Travel inland by road from Chiclayo
to the Chachapoyas region.
Day 8
Visit the enormous walled fortress
of Kuelap.
Day 9
Visit the colourful funeral
chambers of Revash or perhaps
the Gocta waterfall.
Day 10
Travel by road back to Chiclayo.
Day 1
Day 2
of Lima.
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Day 6
Travel by road into the Colca Valley.
You will pass herds of grazing
llama and vicuña at altitudes of
over 4,500 metres.
Early morning excursion to Condor's
Cross to spot the magnificent birds.
Afternoon transfer by road to Puno
on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
Day 7
Take to the lake by boat and visit
some of the islands to learn about
the people and their cultures.
Day 8
Transfer across the high altiplano by
road or rail to Cuzco.
Day 9
Explore Cuzco’s museums, churches,
bustling streets and nearby Inca ruins.
Day 10
Travel by road into the Sacred Valley
of the Incas, visiting colourful markets
and Inca ruins.
Day 11
spend the afternoon exploring
the site.
Day 12
Further explorations of the site
before taking the afternoon train
back to Cuzco.
Day 13
Day 14
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
Spend an additional night in the Colca Canyon
to explore the region a little more. Use Cuzco
as a base to head into the Southern Amazon
or perhaps include some trekking before
making your way to Machu Picchu.
Day 9
Begin the Inca Trail from the
Sacred Valley.
Days 10-11 Walking the Inca Trail.
Day 12
The final day on the trail, arrive at
Machu Picchu in the morning for a
guided tour of the site.
Day 13
Return to Machu Picchu to explore
further before taking the afternoon
train back to Cuzco.
Day 11
Fly from Chiclayo to Lima and up to
Cuzco. Afternoon to acclimitise to
the altitude.
Day 14
Day 12
Day 15
Arrive in the UK.
A tour of Cuzco and the nearby Inca
ruins including Sacsayhuaman.
Day 13
Visit the ruins at Pisac and
Ollantaytambo, stay overnight in the
Sacred Valley.
Day 14
Take the train towards Machu Picchu.
Alight at KM104 and walk the
truncated Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.
Day 15
Explore the Inca citadel of Machu
Picchu; afternoon return to Cuzco
by train.
Day 16
Day 17
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
Cuzco is the starting point for the Andean
Explorer train across the high altiplano to Lake
Titicaca and then on to La Paz, Bolivia. It is also
possible to replace the southern Amazon lodge
with an Amazon cruise from the northern city of
Iquitos or spend more time in Lima to travel
down to the Nazca Lines.
●
01993 838 620
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Peru 23
Peruvian Amazon
The Amazon
A steamily mysterious tangle of plants, animals
and indigenous communities; the ‘lungs of the
world’; a symbol of the destruction of the world’s
natural resources; or the world’s mightiest river;
the word ‘Amazon’ fires many people’s
imagination. Around one third of the surface area
of the South American continent is part of the
Amazon basin, and it reaches into nine countries:
Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela,
Bolivia, Guyana, French Guiana and Suriname.
Flora and fauna
Worldwide, tropical rainforests cover less than
10% of total land surface and yet contain half of
the earth’s species of animals and two-thirds of
all plants. The Amazon itself is considered to be
home to more than a third of the animal species
found on Earth: figures vary but scientific
estimates suggest that some 500 mammals and
30 million insect types are vying for space here.
Red howler monkey, Brazilian Amazon
Rainforest and river
The Amazon basin is the name for the area that
is drained by the Amazon River and all of its
tributaries, and within that is the world’s largest
tropical rainforest which covers more than five
million square kilometres of the continent.
The river is the forest’s main artery, flowing for
more than 6,000 kilometres from its source in
the Peruvian Andes to the Atlantic Ocean on
Brazil’s northern coast. While considered to be
second to the Nile where length is concerned,
this is the world’s widest river and indisputably
the largest by water volume, indeed the
Amazon accounts for up to 20 percent of the
world’s fresh water.
Not all trips to the Amazon will necessarily
entail a meeting with what is technically the
Amazon River itself as it has over 1,000
tributaries, of which the majority of visitors will
perhaps encounter one or two: the Apurimac,
Ucayali or the Madre de Dios (Peru), the
Madeira (Brazil), the Napo (Ecuador) or the Rio
Negro (Colombia/Brazil). But if you are in the
Amazon rainforest then we believe you can
legitimately say that you have ‘seen, sailed or
splashed about in the Amazon River’.
Huaorani man, Ecuadorian Amazon
24
Scarlet macaws flit overhead, jaguars prowl,
sloths lie along branches and howler monkeys
fill the forest with their deep-throated calls. In
the rivers, pink dolphin, giant river otter and
manatees can be seen among the water lilies,
beneath which lurk rather more fearsome
neighbours including the piranha and anaconda.
Threats to the Amazon and its people
The Amazon’s worldwide impact is huge: this
rainforest shapes our climate and weather
patterns and is believed to store up to half of
the Earth’s rainwater. The Amazon rainforest
continuously inhales carbon dioxide and exhales
oxygen and is accredited with producing over a
fifth of the world’s oxygen. In an area known
predominantly for its plant and animal life, the
human inhabitants are often overlooked. It is
possible that the current indigenous population
of the Amazon rainforest is just two percent of
that five hundred years ago, as disease,
deforestation and development have played
their negative part. It is believed that those
Indians who do still inhabit the Amazon speak
over 200 different languages and preserve
generations’ worth of tribal tradition and
wisdom. It is also thought that more than half
of the world’s ‘uncontacted’ tribes live deep
within the Amazon.
Audley in the Amazon
Being so vast if can be difficult to know which
part of the Amazon to visit. In truth there is no
right or wrong answer, it is usually a case of
which area fits in best with the rest of your
travel plans. The traveller’s experience can vary
substantially by country, not only in terms of
infrastructure and accommodation but also due
to the extraordinary biodiversity of flora and
fauna. However, to give you an idea of what to
expect we have given a brief insight of typical
Amazon experiences below.
River journeys
Cruises along tributaries of the Amazon operate
from Manaus in Brazil (page 73), Iquitos in
northern Peru (page 20) and Coca in Ecuador
(page 39). They are largely relaxing affairs with
the main benefit being air-conditioned facilities
on board, allowing you to escape the heat and
humidity of the rainforest. Excursions are taken
by dugout canoe with naturalist guides along
smaller, quieter tributaries of the river looking
for wildlife along the shorelines and in the
canopy above. Stops are also made at
indigenous villages to gain an insight into the
local way of life but on the whole, walking along
trails through the jungle, is kept to a minimum.
Amazon lodges
Lodges present by far the widest range of
opportunities for exploration of the rainforest.
Within the Madidi National Park in Bolivia, the
Tambopata and Manu Reserves in Peru, the
Yasuni National Park and Huaorani Territory
in Ecuador and the Anavilhanas and Mamirauá
Reserves in Brazil, there are lodge options for
the keenest of wildlife enthusiasts, those looking
for a wonderful overview of the Amazon or
those seeking a more ‘hands-on’ experience
staying with a local community.
Excursions from lodges are usually undertaken at
dawn and dusk when wildlife is at its most active
and out of the heat of the day. Experiences
range from walking well-marked nature trails
looking for various types of birds and species of
monkey and sloth, to learning about the
medicinal properties of plants. In the evening
you may board a paddle canoe to cross a
peaceful blackwater lake searching for caiman
and shore birds or head out on a night walk as
many of the insect, frog and snake species are
nocturnal. For keen birdwatchers, some lodges
are located close to clay licks which are a vital
source of minerals for parrots and macaws,
attracting these birds in their swathes early in
Typical paddle canoe excursion, Amazon basin
the morning. If staying at a community-based
lodge you will spend time with the villagers
learning how they live off the forest, cooking
with them, learning about their hunting
techniques and even visiting their local school.
Lodges vary from the very basic with shared
facilities, no electricity and cold water, to
comfortable, well furnished cabins with private
bathrooms. As a general rule, the best chances
of spotting wildlife are at the more remote
lodges and these generally have the most limited
facilities. If you are seeking more of a cultural
Amazon experience with more exposure to
the indigenous tribes you will find that the
chances of seeing wildlife will be less.
Responsible travel
It is important that any kind of travel to the
Amazon minimises any negative effect
(or indeed has a positive effect) on its people
and the environment. We ensure that any visit
uses lodges or cruises that work sensitively
with local villagers, or are owned and operated
by the local communities themselves. This
enables the local tribes to be self-sufficient and
resist external political pressures and projects
that can encroach on to their territory and
destroy the flora, fauna and their heritage.
Clay lick, Peruvian Amazon
www.audleytravel.com/amazon
●
01993 838 600
●
Amazon 25
Bolivia
olivia, the vast but landlocked country
at the heart of South America, is an
unforgettable destination. Traditional
religions, languages, costumes and festivals
that have spanned many thousands of years
have been gilded by a layer of Spanish
colonialism, resulting in a colourful and
intriguing cultural blend. Combined with
this is the awe-inspiring natural beauty
B
26
of the country; from the deep blue waters
of Lake Titicaca framed by snow-capped
mountains on the horizon, to the
multi-coloured lakes, vast deserts and
dazzling salt flats of the southwestern
plateau and steamy jungles of the Amazon
basin, and wildlife-rich grasslands of the
southeast. Cities captivate visitors from
the world’s highest capital in La Paz, to
the whitewashed colonial beauty of Sucre
and the ghostly, eerie presence of Potosí.
Bolivians are warm and welcoming people,
always pleased to see someone who takes
the trouble to visit the country they are so
rightly proud of. They will ensure your stay,
whether for a few days or a few weeks, is a
memorable one. Bolivia is truly South
America as its most visceral.
Audley in Bolivia
Bolivia has long been one of our favourite
South American countries, and our extensive
knowledge on the ground comes from many
years of operating tailor-made and group
travels in this region. It is not a country for
everyone for many reasons – it certainly lags
behind its more developed neighbours of
Peru and Chile in terms of infrastructure for
visitors. However, those who decide to visit
are usually overwhelmed by the beauty of
the country and the welcoming nature of the
people. An open mind and relaxed travelling
attitude is required, as there are often strikes,
demonstrations and road-blocks called at the
last minute, meaning that some disruption to
travel plans may ensue. None of this is in
any way directed at travellers, they are the
expressions of the local people in a country
that is one of the poorest in Latin America.
Another word of caution – most of the
must-see sights in Bolivia are located at an
altitude of between 3,500 metres and
4,500 metres meaning that time to
acclimatise is vital.
7
3
4
5
6
1
Accommodation
2
1 Salar de Uyuni
The vast and breathtaking
whiteness as far as the eye can
see of these salt pans is
emptiness at its most beautiful.
2 Southwestern altiplano
Volcanoes, red, green and
white lakes and flamingos –
a unique landscape.
4 La Paz
A bustling mix of indigenous
markets and modern life,
watched over by Mount Illimani.
5 Sucre
A university town of
whitewashed colonial buildings
and easy-going charm.
Lake Titicaca
7 Madidi National Park
The Bolivian Amazon boasts a
huge variety of flora and fauna,
and a great locally owned and
run ecolodge.
3 Lake Titicaca
Glittering blue waters where
Bolivia keeps its navy, in the
hope of one day getting its
sea access back.
Accommodation options in Bolivia are
limited in a country which does not see a
high number of foreign visitors. The main
cities of La Paz and Santa Cruz have some
international standard hotels, Sucre has a
handful of delightful colonial properties, and
Lake Titicaca a couple of comfortable lodges.
Outside of these areas accommodation
becomes more basic, right down to
properties that are little more than huts or
tents, although creature comforts are
gradually arriving in most places. We
particularly like the Tayka hotels in the
southwestern altiplano, which are owned and
run by local families as community projects,
plus the Luna Salada, a quirky property made
entirely of salt which lies 20 minutes drive
outside the town of Uyuni.
Find out more
For a suggested itinerary and practical
information about travel in Bolivia, please
see page 31.
Train cemetery, near Salar de Uyuni
6 Cerro Rico, Potosí
The ‘Rich Hill’ from where silver
was mined for the Spanish, and
thousands of indigenous lives
were lost in its pursuit. Still a
working mine today, which
welcomes visitors.
Textiles
☎ Discuss your plans with our Bolivia
Sajama National Park
Bolivia 27
Mother and child, La Paz
La Paz and Around
High up in the Andes, the earth suddenly falls
away to reveal a huge, bowl-shaped canyon, with
a city spread across its floor and clinging to the
steep sides. La Paz will quite literally take your
breath away with its glorious location, overlooked
by the snow-capped peak of Mount Illimani. It is
a bustling and often frantic place that is
fascinating to wander around. Aymara women
dressed in voluminous skirts and bowler hats, with
children swaddled in multi-coloured blankets tied
on their backs, fill the cobbled streets with their
market stalls. Your purchases here could be
anything from local handicrafts or coca leaves to
mysterious potions from the Witchcraft Market.
Just outside of the city you can get adventurous
by mounting a bicycle and descending over
3,000 metres in 55 kilometres into the subtropics
La Paz
28
and the somnolent town of Coroico. This is one
of several exhilarating downhill bike journeys
that can be done from La Paz. Your journey
(which can also be done by car) takes you
through magnificent scenery, where jagged
mountains and frozen streams give way to the
citrus groves and coffee plantations of the Yungas
sub-tropical region. Climbing your way out of the
city towards Tiahuanaco and Lake Titicaca you
will pass through El Alto (‘High One’), a city that
started as an overspill from La Paz but is now
bigger than its sister in the canyon.
Tiahuanaco
With its monoliths and carved gateways, the ruins
of Tiahuanaco lie in a windy valley near to Lake
Titicaca, a couple of hours by road from La Paz.
It is thought they were once part of a magnificent
imperial capital that thrived 1,500 years ago and
was believed to exert more influence than the
Inca empire in its time, and possibly be the
inspiration for its more famous successor.
There are many unusual features here, such as
stone carvings of snakes with human heads and
figures with two left hands. It is an intriguing site
for all those who have an interest in the rich
pre-Colombian history of the Andes.
Lake Titicaca
On the windswept altiplano a short distance
from La Paz, Lake Titicaca stretches out in a vast
shimmer of fathomless blue. The lake is sacred to
Quechua and Aymara people and it is rumoured
that if someone drowns in the lake, they become
an offering to the earth goddess Pachamama.
To avoid becoming an offering to the gods
yourself, stay out of the icy waters and instead
take a hydrofoil to explore the islands of the lake
and the towns along its shore. Spend a relaxing
day, or even stay, on the serene Sun Island,
ambling along the paths past Inca fountains and
grazing llama. Visit the floating islands of the
Uros-Uruitos community to learn about their
sustainable tourism project, and explore the
pilgrimage town of Copacabana where each
Sunday vehicles bedecked with flowers are
blessed outside the dazzling Moorish-style
cathedral for the miles ahead.
Rooftops of Potosí
Sucre
Potosí
Sucre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a
whitewashed colonial centre, is the city that all
Bolivians say you must visit, many refer to it as
their official capital. Ornate churches are sprinkled
through the narrow streets, tiles with poems hand
painted onto them are laid into white walls,
wooden balconies bear bright flowers, and the
sun usually shines. For an insight into the local
indigenous groups and their distinctive weavings,
visit the fascinating Ethnographic Textile Museum
and follow this with a trip to some of the nearby
villages such as Tarabuco and Potolo where the
weaving still takes place. Sucre’s original
inhabitants have also left a mark of their own –
the world’s largest collection of dinosaur tracks,
embedded in a huge limestone rock that can
be seen nearby.
Three hours by road from Sucre, melancholy
Potosí was once South America’s richest city.
Today it is a shadow of its former self and grand
colonial houses stand crumbling, but the skyline is
still dominated by the Cerro Rico (Rich Hill)
whose silver brought great wealth for the Spanish
at the cost of countless slave miners’ lives. No
visit here would be complete without a trip deep
into one of the remaining mines, which are now
worked as co-operatives. This edifying experience
begins at the market with the purchase of gifts of
coca leaves, alcohol, cigarettes and dynamite for
the miners. Torch in hand, you then enter into
the labyrinth of tunnels to witness the work of
these men, as they use primitive tools to chip
away at the inside of the mountain to dislodge
the silver to which Potosí owes its very existence.
Colonial architecture, Sucre
PARADOR SANTA MARIA
REAL, SUCRE
LA
Conveniently located one block from the central
Plaza de Armas, the Parador Santa Maria la Real
is a small hotel with only 23 rooms. It is a Spanish
colonial house from the 18th century which has
been lovingly restored and adapted into a
comfortable hotel, retaining all the traditional
charm of its original structure.
Sun Island, Lake Titicaca
Tarabuco market, near Sucre
www.audleytravel.com/bolivia
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01993 838 645
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Bolivia 29
Green Lagoon, southwest Bolivia
The Southern Altiplano
Ecological Areas
Far off the beaten track, this stark and surreal
landscape makes for a bumpy, windy yet
completely captivating few days. The adventure
begins on the track to the sequestered town of
Uyuni with its outlying ‘train cemetery’, where the
skeletons of steam locomotives rust in the sun.
A blinding sheet of salt awaits you at the Salar de
Uyuni, the world’s largest salt lake, where you are
in a simple world of blue and white, or even
more bizarrely where seasonal waters can reflect
the sky and dissolve the horizon. Sip coca tea
sitting on an island in the sea of salt that is
covered in giant cacti, take a dip in a natural
thermal pool overlooked by volcanoes, enjoy a
three course meal on a picnic table watched by
llamas and alpacas. Continuing south, strange rock
formations rise up from the desert, mud geysers
bubble and wisps of smoke curl out of sleeping
volcanoes. Flamingos strut around lakes of unusual
but beautiful hues of red, blue, green and white.
Bolivia has many other virtually undiscovered
areas for the visitor interested in the natural
world. Visits to these places are not simple or
cheap, but the wealth of bio-diversity makes for
an astounding experience.
Salar de Uyuni
30
Church, Concepción
Santa Cruz and the
Jesuit Missions
Far from the Andean peaks lies the busy and
humid city of Santa Cruz, where you can see
sloths hanging in the palm-filled main plaza and
crowds worshipping in a huge church made of
bamboo. Heading northeast by road, flat
farmlands merge into rolling hills and ranches as
you reach the colonnaded streets of the sleepy
Jesuit towns, such as Concepción. The fine
religious craftsmanship of the beautiful churches
here is a key part of Bolivia’s heritage. If you have
a keen interest in wildlife, your road journey in
these lowlands of Bolivia could also take you to
Amboró National Park for a couple of days.
Thanks to its three distinct eco-systems that
encompass the Amazon River basin, the Andean
foothills and the Chaco plain, this is an area of
great bio-diversity and is thought to be home to
more species of life per hectare than anywhere
else on earth.
The town of Rurrenabaque, in the northwest
of Bolivia, is the starting point for trips into the
Amazonian area of Pilón Lajas Ecological
Reserve or the vast Madidi National Park that
encompasses cloud and rainforest. Both have
excellent lodges (Mapajo in Pilón Lajas and
Chalalán Ecolodge in Madidi) with indigenous
guides to explore and search for some of the
local animal populations including monkeys,
caiman, turtles and macaws. The dry season of
June to October is the best time to go.
Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, in the far
east of Bolivia, is another unique habitat that
encompasses rainforest and savannah and over
620 bird species have been recorded here
including 20 species of parrot. Its remoteness
means it receives few visitors and, as with any of
the places mentioned in this section, the trip is
an exercise in dedication – but it is worth it for
the sights that await.
Tailoring your trip
Classic Bolivia
The itinerary shown is designed to give you a
flavour of what is possible, and is a route that
works particularly well. We can use this as a basis
to plan your trip or can design a completely
A stunning adventure to the heart of the country,
this tour explores the incredible places along
Bolivia’s Andean spine. From the blue waters of
Lake Titicaca to the colonial towns of Sucre and
Potosí to the stunning, desolate landscapes of the
south. This trip is for those with an adventurous
spirit and a hankering to get off the beaten track.
Please call one of our Bolivia specialists to start
Lake
Titicaca
La Paz
Green Lagoon
Sucre
Potosí
San Pedro
de Atacama
CHILE
Day 1
Fly from the UK to La Paz.
Telephone: 01993 838 645
Day 2
Arrive in La Paz, rest in order to
start acclimatising.
Getting around
Day 3
Explore the fascinating streets,
museums and markets of the city.
Afternoon visit to the
Tiahuanaco ruins.
Day 4
Drive to Lake Titicaca, visit the
Uros-Uruitos Indians on their floating
islands, continuing to Sun Island.
Day 12
Day 5
Re-trace your steps back to La Paz.
Days 13-14 Excursions in the Atacama Desert.
Day 6
Fly to Sucre, afternoon exploration
of this delightful colonial city.
Day 15
Fly to Santiago to connect with your
international flight.
Day 7
Travel by road to Potosí, take a tour
of the silver mine and the colonial
streets of the city.
Day 16
Arrive in the UK.
Day 8
Continue your road journey to
Uyuni, visit the train cemetery.
Day 9
Head across the vast Salar de Uyuni,
visit the salt mining settlement of
Colchani and the unusual Fish Island
that is covered with giant cacti.
Day 10
Continue south past lakes of
varying different hues towards the
Red Lagoon.
Day 11
Visit the Sol de Manaña geysers, see
the stone tree and walk around the
Green Lagoon.
Stay longer on Sun Island to explore more of
the island and walk to the Chincana ruins. From
La Paz travel down to the steamy town of
Coroico, either by car or mountain bike.
Alternatively, fly north from La Paz to
Rurrenebaque and into the Amazon at Chalalán
Lodge. More time in Sucre would allow time to
visit the colourful indigenous market town of
Tarabuco. A different and far lesser travelled route
from Bolivia into Chile is across the stunning
Sajama National Park, with barren landcapes,
grazing vicuña and snow-capped volcanoes.
Bolivia is a big country, but we do not use
internal flights often as the main attractions do
not have airports nearby. Therefore most of the
journeys are done by road, some tarmaced but
many bumpy, in minibuses or 4x4 vehicles,
accompanied by a guide and experienced driver.
We are acutely aware that travelling extensively
through Bolivia can be a little arduous due to the
distances involved, the altitude and the possible
delays, but we firmly believe that it is more than
worth it, as long as you are prepared for it.
As well as a stand-alone destination in its own
right, Bolivia fits in perfectly with itineraries to
Peru or Chile (or both), and we have researched
a number of overland routes to combine these
three countries.
When to go
Jan
~
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
~
~
✓
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓
✓
~
~
~
✕
Uyuni
Red
Lagoon
Santiago
Green
Lagoon
Continue south, crossing the border
into Chile and on into the oasis town
of San Pedro de Atacama.
Stay longer
The best time to visit the highland areas is
between April and October, this is the cooler
winter period but it should be dry. In the
southern altiplano the sky will be blue but it will
be very cold, dropping to many degrees below
freezing at night. The summer rainy season from
November to March can cause transport
problems in the highlands, while the eastern
lowlands are warm and steamy year-round.
Prices
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline
prices for your trip to Bolivia on our website,
alternatively please call our specialists to
discuss your plans.
Sunset over Salar de Uyuni
www.audleytravel.com/bolivia
●
01993 838 645
●
Bolivia 31
Ecuador & the Galapagos
diminutive country that boasts a
wonderfully diverse array of sights,
Ecuador is a pocket-sized version of all that
is synonymous with South America. It has
a landscape dotted with smoking Andean
volcanoes, well-preserved colonial towns
and cities, vibrant and colourful indigenous
markets, understated and charming places
to stay and vast tracts of sultry Amazon
A
32
rainforest. But Ecuador has one unique
feature all of its own – the magnificent
Galapagos Islands. Renowned for its wide
variety of wildlife, it is most famously the
location that inspired Charles Darwin’s
theory of evolution, and a visit to these
fascinating islands is one of the world’s
great travel experiences. What sets the
wildlife encounters apart here is the
complete lack of fear the animals have of
humans, enabling visitors to enjoy their
closest ever encounter with nature. Whilst
many visitors see Ecuador as a springboard
for the Galapagos those who do stay for a
few days on the mainland are often
surprised by this often overlooked country,
proving the old maxim that the best things
really do come in small packages.
Audley in Ecuador and
the Galapagos
2
1
3
4
6
5
Ecuador is a wonderfully welcoming place,
and travelling around the compact mainland
is an easy-going, entertaining and scenic
experience. It can be as adventurous or
as relaxing as you would like. Based on your
preferences and budget we can provide
full-time drivers and guides, or just arrange
for you to have a vehicle with driver.
However you decide to travel, we will
ensure that you get the most from your
time here, whether you are making
something of a road trip and are moving on
each day, or staying at one of the haciendas
for a few relaxing days. For those with
sufficient time we recommend a journey
down the length of the country, dispensing
the need for internal flights and ensuring you
see the most of the magnificent scenery of
the country. The Galapagos Islands are
reached by short flights from the mainland
cities of Quito or Guayaquil.
Accommodation
1 Galapagos Islands
An obvious must-see, there is
nowhere else on earth like
these islands. The animals really
do have no fear of man.
4 Cotopaxi National Park
The world’s highest active
volcano has an almost perfect
conical shape, and its
surroundings attract walkers,
mountain bikers, horse riders
and climbers.
5 Cuenca
Ecuador’s prettiest city and
home to the famous Panama
hat factories.
6 The Amazon
The easily accessible Ecuadorian
Amazon offers some excellent,
indigenous community-owned
and run ecolodges with
rewarding wildlife viewing.
Haciendas
A stay at a traditional farmhouse
offers a wonderful insight into
Ecuadorian history
One of the attractions of Ecuador is its
charming range of places to stay. For a taste
of the colonial heritage of the country, we
recommend a night or two in one of the
restored haciendas built on the grand estates
of the colonial era. Each has its own
particular history and character, the grounds
are extensive and the settings often
unrivalled, offering an idyllic rural retreat.
When in the towns and cities, the colonial
influence manifests itself in elegant
townhouses with rooms set around a central
courtyard. Often in the heart of the historical
centre, these hotels are ideally placed to
explore the nearby sights, restaurants and
markets. Ecuador also has a superb selection
of lodges deep in the Amazon rainforest,
many of which are run in conjunction with
the local indigenous communities.
Find out more
Panama hat maker, Cuenca
information about travel in Ecuador and the
Galapagos, please see pages 42-43.
2 Otavalo
One of the most colourful
markets in South America –
the locals sell handicrafts,
textiles and paintings in a
relaxed atmosphere.
3 Quito
The capital has a restored
colonial, UNESCO-protected
centre, plus a vibrant cafe and
restaurant culture.
☎ Discuss your plans with our Ecuador
The cobbled streets of Quito’s old town
Ecuador & the Galapagos 33
Quito at night
Quito
Set in an Andean valley with the verdant
Pichincha volcano rising to the west, Quito is
the capital of Ecuador. From the scenic hill of El
Panecillo, the Virgin of Quito spreads her silver
wings and watches over the fine colonial buildings
of the old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Its chaotic narrow streets, lined with colonial
churches, monasteries and mansions, radiate
outwards from attractive plazas. Recently spruced
up, this part of the city tempts the visitor with its
abundance of history at every turn and a walking
tour here is a must. The city’s newer area has less
of historic interest but this is where you will find
the majority of the shops, cafes and restaurants.
Virgin of Quito, El Panecillo
34
ACCOMMODATION
IN
QUITO
Quito can roughly be divided into two areas in
which most accommodation is based. The new
town or ‘La Mariscal’ has undergone significant
regeneration in recent years and now has a
thriving cafe, bar and restaurant scene. Here you
will find a number of modern four and five star
hotels with excellent facilities and convenient
access to the international airport. The area is
also seeing an increase in smaller properties such
as the Casa Aliso and Anahi boutique hotels, ideal
for those seeking something with a little character
but close to the vibrant social scene.
The old town is the most common place to
stay for those wanting to explore the UNESCO
centre. Here charming B&B hotels such as the
Relicario del Carmen and Villa Colonna offer
thoughtfully decorated rooms around small
courtyards and a very personalised service, all
just footsteps from the main square. Close by,
and with a few more facilities including a good
restaurant serving Spanish and local specialities,
is the ever popular Patio Andaluz. For the jewel
in the crown of luxury hotels, the Plaza Grande
is located on the corner of the main square and
has Victorian touches with a classical feel. There
is an impressive grand dining room, elegant cafe,
huge wine cellar and a cognac, cigar and
champagne bar.
Around Quito
North of Quito is the geographic feature that
gives the country its name, the equator. There
are a number of locations each marked by a
monument and ubiquitous painted line on the
ground offering you the opportunity to stand
with ‘one foot in each hemisphere’.
Around one hour east of the capital is Ecuador’s
fourth highest peak, Antisana. The attached
ecological reserve enables visitors to get up close
to rocky peaks which give way to a vast sweep of
Andean vegetation, home to beautiful paramo
flowers and rich Andean birdlife. Close by is the
town of Papallacta, renowned for its thermal
springs and their reputed curative powers.
El Sagrario church, Quito
Otavaleños trading corn at the market
Imbabura volcano near Otavalo
Equator line and monument, near Quito
Hacienda Cusin, near Otavalo
Otavalo market
Otavalo and the North
A couple of hours north of Quito the small town
of Otavalo, nestling in amongst the surrounding
hills and mountains, is famous for its bustling
indigenous market, which dates back to pre-Inca
times. One of the most colourful and vibrant
markets in South America, the stalls are spread
over three main squares and spill over into the
adjacent streets. The Otavaleños host the market
in their distinctive traditional dress – the men
sport calf-length white trousers, rope sandals and
ponchos and wear their hair in ponytails; the
women wear delicately embroidered blouses and
dark skirts, long hair in swinging braids, their
wrists adorned by red beads. Barter for one of
the many high-quality crafts and textiles on offer,
or just soak up the atmosphere with a stroll
around the market.
The surrounding villages also retain quirky
traditions such as Calderón, where bakeries turn
out intriguing bread dough figurines in many
shapes and sizes. Nearby San Antonio de Ibarra
is famous for its woodcarvings and the town of
Cotacachi is entirely dedicated to selling fine
leather products. Alternatively visit local houses
in Peguche where textiles are woven on oldfashioned shuttle looms.
Haciendas of Northern Ecuador
Around Otavalo you will find the widest
choice of haciendas in Ecuador. Dating back
to the 17th century, many of the estates
survived the liberation of the country from
the Spanish. Many important figures, such as
the liberator General Simón Bolívar, have
been significant guests at these properties.
Today they have been lovingly restored and
house an abundance of antiquities, roaring
fireplaces, quaint chapels and pretty
courtyards teeming with hummingbirds.
Closest to the town of Otavalo are the
haciendas of Cusin and Pinsaqui. Long term
Audley favourites, they are perfectly located
for exploring the villages and markets around
Otavalo whilst also offering great outdoor
activities such as walks around stunning crater
lakes and horse riding. More remote is the
beautiful working farm of Hacienda Zuleta.
Opened to guests around ten years ago, the
hacienda has just 15 rooms offering rustic
luxury. Activities are primarily undertaken
within the grounds and include over 50
kilometres of self-guided Andean trails and
horse riding on some of the finest horses in
Ecuador. There is also a condor rehabilitation
centre, fishing pond and pre-Inca pyramids
located within the property boundaries.
Further north is the converted hacienda of
Pantaví. Situated in the heart of the Chota
valley, home to the Afro-Ecuadorian
communities, the beautiful gardens, small
pool and charming hosts make this a
beautiful base to explore this region.
Activities in this secluded corner of the
country include walking amongst farming
plantations, mountain biking, soaking in
thermal springs and discovering the unique
culture of the Chotas.
Hacienda Zuleta
www.audleytravel.com/ecuador
●
01993 838 655
●
Chimborazo, Avenue of Volcanoes
The Avenue of Volcanoes
The long and picturesque valley south of Quito
towards Cuenca is the start of Ecuador’s
indigenous heartland. Creeping up the mountain
slopes in different shades of green and gold, the
patchwork-quilt fields give way to snow-capped
peaks. The most imposing of these is the perfect
cone shape of Cotopaxi, the highest active
volcano in the world. At its foot, its eponymous
national park is an ideal place for spending the
night in one of the local haciendas from where
you can enjoy a gentle hike, a visit to a rose
plantation or some horse riding. The surrounding
countryside is also peppered with indigenous
villages which play host to colourful local markets
on different days of the week.
Heading west you will come across some of the
most beautiful and isolated parts of the Andes
for walking, including the spectacular emerald
waters of the Quilotoa crater lake. If you continue
down the Avenue of Volcanoes you will reach
the town of Riobamba, which lies in the shadow
of Chimborazo, the country’s highest volcano.
This is the starting point for the dramatic ‘Devil’s
Nose’ train journey. As the train wends its way
south through the mountains and lakes, it reaches
a steep cliff where a series of thrilling switchbacks,
carved out of the sheer rockface, allows it to
zigzag its way down.
LA CIENEGA,
San Agustin de Callo, Cotopaxi
SAN AGUSTIN
COTOPAXI
DE
CALLO,
NEAR
Located within the boundaries of the Cotopaxi
National Park, this lovely hacienda grants guests
a glimpse of the influences of the two dominant
powers in Ecuador’s rich past. Ongoing
excavation has revealed that the Spanish hacienda
was built on the site of Inca ruins; the present
owners have been careful to incorporate much
of the stonework into the newer buildings. With
the accommodation in 11 individually decorated
guestrooms, divided between three houses, this
is a superb base to explore the surrounding
villages and markets.
La Cienega, Cotopaxi
36
NEAR
COTOPAXI
The magnificent, eucalyptus tree-lined drive is a
fitting approach to this 17th century hacienda
complete with its original private chapel and
beautifully manicured gardens. Situated on the
slopes of the imposing Cotopaxi volcano, the two
metre thick walls of the house are constructed of
volcanic stone. The house has an extensive
documented history which guests can learn
about during their stay in one of the 36 simply
furnished rooms.
Local girl, Gualaceo valley
Panama hats, Cuenca
Cuenca cathedral
SANTA LUCIA, CUENCA
MANSION ALCAZAR, CUENCA
A long time Audley favourite, the Santa Lucia
is perfectly situated in the heart of the colonial
centre of Cuenca. Itself one of the city’s most
significant buildings, the hotel dates back to
1859 and has been beautifully restored, with
an abundance of polished wood and antique
furnishings. The 20 guest bedrooms are
opulently decorated with period furniture and
expensive fabrics.
This 19th century mansion has been beautifully
restored to its original grandeur, and is perhaps
the most sophisticated and charming place to stay
in Cuenca. The luxurious rooms open out on two
floors to an interior courtyard complete with
chandelier and trickling fountain. The attention to
detail is evident in the scattering of rose-petals on
the antique beds and the hot-water bottle to
warm you as you snuggle into your bed.
Around Cuenca
An hour east of Cuenca is the picturesque
Gualaceo valley. Surrounded by towering Andean
peaks, the valley is home to numerous indigenous
villages each with their own unique handicrafts.
Delicate handmade and painted guitars can be
found in the village of San Bartolomé and at
nearby Sigsag, toquilla straw is harvested and
prepared to weave Panama hats. The quaint
village of Chordeleg, surrounded by orchards and
sugar cane plantations, has many stores selling
jewellery in gold and silver and is renowned
locally for its green and yellow pottery.
Cotopaxi volcano
Cuenca
Arguably Ecuador’s prettiest city, Cuenca was
founded by the Spanish in the mid-16th century.
The colonial centre is small enough to explore on
foot, and has a plethora of fine town houses and
quaint market squares, the best of which, the
Plaza de las Flores, explodes with colour in a
beautiful display of flowers. The cobbled streets,
graceful ironwork balconies and beautiful gardens
led UNESCO to declare it a World Heritage Site.
The gentle hills around the city are dotted with
small villages known for their handicrafts. A visit
to this region may end with the purchase of a
Panama hat, as Cuenca is its recognised home.
To the north of Cuenca, a noteworthy example
of Inca architecture, Ingapirca, can be found,
where to this day archaeologists are still
uncovering new examples of finely-laid and
intricate Inca stonework.
Santa Lucia, Cuenca
●
01993 838 655
●
Saraguro man, southern Ecuador
Southern Ecuador
Guayaquil and around
South of Cuenca the Pan American Highway
winds itself through increasingly remote
countryside into the Saraguro (‘land of the corn’)
region of the country. The Saraguros are one of
the most distinctive communities in Ecuador with
their unique black clothing, own dialect of
Quechua language and elaborate silver and nickel
jewellery. Their relaxed way of life has led to an
unusual longevity with some of the oldest people
in the world living here.
For those travelling from the Andean highlands
to the coast by road, the last leg of the journey
is as breathtaking as what has preceded it. You
will head west from Cuenca into the rugged
wilderness of El Cajas National Park. The craggy
hills are interspersed with more than 200 lagoons
and lakes: a full day’s drive through here descends
into the breathtaking steamy coastal lowlands
that lead to Guayaquil, the largest city in the
country. The city has not had much to entice the
visitor, but large parts of it have recently been
renovated and the harbour area is now a pleasant
place for a stroll and a bite to eat. Flights to and
from the Galapagos touch down in Guayaquil,
making the city a logistically sensible place for
an overnight stop.
The main city in the region is Loja which has a
fascinating faded colonial centre and a noticeably
warmer climate than other parts of the Andes.
The city lies on the western edge of the
Podocarpus National Park, one of the world’s
most bio-diverse areas, with its variety of habitats
and large expanses of virgin forest sheltering a
dazzling variety of wildlife. It is particularly
renowned for birdlife with over 600 species
that make their home here, representing 40%
of all avian species in Ecuador. Podocarpus is
also home to fantastic orchids and spectacular
scenery including pristine Andean lakes and
waterfalls. This region is best travelled by road
over a period of three to four days or by a
spectacular 45 minute early morning flight from
Quito which spans the entire length of the
Avenue of Volcanoes.
Paradise tanager, Podocarpus National Park
El Cajas National Park
38
Guayaquil cathedral
Huaorani lady
Tiger-striped tree frog
Cobalt-winged parakeets
Napo parrot
Pygmy marmoset monkey
Ecuadorian Amazon
unobtrusive as possible amidst the dense jungle
vegetation. Sacha is renowned for its warm
welcome, skilled naturalist guides and delicious
cuisine. It also boasts an observation tower, ideal
for bird watching, and a 300 metre long walkway
that threads through the jungle canopy.
The Ecuadorian wedge of the Amazon rainforest
will enchant visitors with its cacophony of
birdsong, the playful whoops of monkeys, the still
black waters of the rivers, and the flutter of
colourful butterflies and tropical birds. Wildlife
spotting opportunities are excellent at the lodges
here, and your guides may be from local
indigenous communities, as they are becoming
more involved with eco-tourism and have
unrivalled knowledge of the Amazonian flora and
fauna. They can point out rare species of
kingfisher, signal where to look for river dolphins
on a canoe excursion, or explain the medicinal
purposes of some of the thousands of plants.
You will usually enter the rainforest by air, and
then travel by boat to one of the jungle lodges
tucked away on the rivers, or take a cruise of
several days on a boat such as the Manatee
Explorer. Ecuador is proud of its relatively remote
and unspoiled Amazon, which offers an authentic
rainforest experience to its visitors.
NAPO WILDLIFE CENTRE
This lodge is located within the Yasuní National
Park in the northern Amazon region. Guests are
welcomed to the lodge with a refreshing
passion-fruit drink after a five hour naturalist tour
downriver from Coca, during which time you will
already have seen a plethora of rare bird and
plant-life. The lodge is exclusive, with just ten
HUAORANI ECOLODGE
Sacha Lodge
simple but well-equipped cabanas, each with
private balcony and beautiful views of the
rainforest. Your hosts here are the local Anangu
community who built the lodge, and are
experienced naturalist guides who will accompany
you on excursions into the jungle and welcome
your questions about the area. Fishing trips and
excursions to the nearby parrot lick are often
highlights of an Amazon stay here. Napo’s profits
go back into the community and towards
Amazon preservation.
Huaorani Ecolodge provides the unique cultural
experience of living near and learning about the
Huaorani culture. It is situated in terra firma
rainforest (forest that is never flooded) about
a 90 minute walk, or 45 minute canoe ride
from the community of Quehueri’ono. The
accommodation consists of five palm-thatched
cabins constructed of local wood, within which
are fitted modern tents. The lodge provides
guests with one of the most authentic
experiences – to meet one of the last indigenous
Amazon cultures to be contacted by missionaries
during the 19th century.
SACHA LODGE
Sacha Lodge is located in a private reserve on
the River Napo, two and a half hours by
motorised canoe from Coca. The lodge overlooks
the scenic black water Pilchicocha Lake, replete
with marine and birdlife. Guests will stay in one
of the comfortable double cabins, each with a
private terrace and designed to look as
Huaorani Ecolodge
●
01993 838 655
●
Galapagos sea lions
The Galapagos Islands
The Galapagos Islands’ reputation as one of the
world’s great travel experiences is more than
justified, and it is one of those destinations that
surpasses all expectations. The diverse range of
animals that live on these remote islands have
no fear of man, and this is what makes the
experience a truly unique one. A trip around
their home is a real delight and will provide
many lingering memories. Walking along sandy
beaches, skirting around the lazy sea lions as
their inquisitive pups try to steal your shoelaces,
watching the comical blue-footed boobies
perform their mating dance, carefully stepping
around a tangled pile of sun-bathing marine
iguanas and admiring the male great frigate bird’s
inflated red chest will all be part of an
unforgettable Galapagos experience.
Land iguana
40
Blue-footed booby
Marine iguana
Sea lion pup
Giant tortoise
Galapagos Wildlife
Exploring the Galapagos
The foremost attraction of the islands for visitors
is the fearlessness of the animals, enabling you to
enjoy one of your closest ever encounters with
nature. The birdlife is abundant, with albatross,
penguins, boobies, frigate birds, flamingos,
cormorants and finches among the species you
are likely to see. Reptiles are most famously
represented by Lonesome George, believed to be
the last surviving giant tortoise from the island of
La Pinta, and there are numerous marine iguanas,
golden land iguanas and colourful lava lizards.
Exploration of the Galapagos is either undertaken
on an expedition cruise vessel or as part of a
package from a hotel or lodge. No two days in
the islands are the same due to the enormous
diversity of landscapes, flora and fauna, but each
day tends to start with an early rise. Every visitor
site is approached on a panga (small inflatable
speedboat) where a wet or dry landing awaits.
Wet landings will involve taking the panga to the
shoreline and disembarking into the edge of the
surf whereas some visitor sites have jetties
constructed to allow for a dry landing.
No amount of photos will prepare you for the
sheer number of sea lions seen across the
archipelago. In addition, there is a small
population of fur seals. The diversity of the
wildlife is not solely reserved for terra firma with
an estimated 400 species of fish roaming the
Galapagos waters.
Nazca boobies
In groups that will number a maximum of 16
(this is the maximum passenger to guide ratio
allowed by the Galapagos National Park), you will
explore each visitor site on foot, maybe with an
optional snorkelling excursion afterwards. The
process is repeated in the afternoon at another
area of interest, perhaps rounded off with some
time on a beach. Back on board the boat or in
your hotel there will be time for a drink and
some dinner before a briefing on the following
day’s activities. Most people tend to go to bed
early in Galapagos thanks to the combination of
fresh air and new experiences, and in preparation
for the following morning’s adventures.
Audley in the
Galapagos
With the wealth of options available,
planning a trip to the Galapagos can
seem like a daunting prospect. We
hope this is where we can help as our
specialists have travelled extensively to
the islands with Audley. We have
arranged trips for over 2,500 clients in
the last ten years so have all of their
experience and feedback to draw on.
We offer a hand-picked choice of
expedition vessels and comfortable
hotels which we believe will provide a
perfect base for your Galapagos trip.
This information is
collated together
with inspirational
features and answers
to commonly asked
questions in
G
our dedicated
brochure.
Please call our
specialists on
01993 838 635
for your copy.
ALA
PAG
OS
TA I L
OR
-MAD
E
J OU R
NEY
S
FOR
THE
DISC
ERN
ING
T RAV
E LL
ER
Flightless cormorant
●
01993 838 655
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Galapagos
Islands
Otavalo
Quito
Guayaquil
Colours of Ecuador
Enjoy a fascinating trip to mainland Ecuador,
including the historical centre of Quito and the
colourful markets of the north, before heading to
the Galapagos Islands for your closest ever
encounter with wildlife.
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Quito.
Day 2
of Quito.
Day 3
Take a full day trip to the colourful
market towns of Otavalo and the
surrounding area.
Days 4-7
Fly to the Galapagos and board your
chosen vessel. Daily excursions on
the islands sailing overnight to your
next destination.
Day 8
Disembark your vessel and transfer
to a Galapagos hotel for a two night
stay.
Day 9
Relax by the pool or undertake
some additional excursions within
the Galapagos.
Day 10
Fly to Guayaquil, on the Ecuadorian
mainland, connecting with your
flight home.
Day 11
Arrive in the UK.
La Compañia church, Quito
Tailoring your trip
Please call one of our Ecuador specialists to start
Telephone: 01993 838 655
Getting around
Being a small country most of Ecuador can be
travelled by road but a good network of flights
can speed up a number of journeys, particularly as
the majority of Ecuadorian roads are something of
a bumpy ride. The Amazon and Galapagos are
only accessible by air.
When to go
Jan
✓
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
✓
✓
✓
✓✓ ✓✓
✓
✓
✓
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓
~
✕
Ecuador hosts visitors all year-round. The Andean
highlands are very much an archetypal ‘four
season in one day’ destination, and the altitude
means that it is always cold at night. As a rough
guide the driest months in the Andes are May to
October although the rains do not arrive in
earnest until January. Conversely, although
generally hot and wet year round, the drier
months in the Ecuadorian Amazon tend to be
between December and April. The Galapagos
can be visited year round although September
can be cooler and the seas choppier.
Stay longer
Spend more time in the Galapagos by taking a
longer voyage on your chosen vessel, or choose to
explore the Avenue of Volcanoes or the Amazon.
Prices
prices for your trip to Ecuador on our website,
discuss your plans.
Frigate bird, Galapagos Islands
42
Hat seller, Otavalo market
Galapagos
Islands
Galapagos
Islands
Otavalo
COLOMBIA
Quito
Quito
Galapagos
Islands
Coca
Quito
ECUADOR
Guayaquil
Riobamba
PERU
Machu
Piccchu
Guayaquil
Guayaquil
Lima
Cuzco
Cuenca
Wildlife of Ecuador
Ecuador Uncovered
Incas and Islands
This itinerary would appeal to those with a general
interest in nature but also satisfy the most serious
naturalist, with its exploration of all Ecuador’s most
diverse natural landscapes. The trip delves into the
Amazon rainforest before flying out to ‘Darwin’s
Laboratory’ the Galapagos Islands.
This comprehensive exploration of Ecuador
combines the fascinating mainland sights of the
cities of Quito and Cuenca, a stay in a historic
hacienda and a trip south through the area that
the 19th century explorer Alexander Von
Humboldt dubbed the ‘Avenue of Volcanoes’.
Finish with a magical cruise around the wildlife
sites of the Galapagos.
Combine two of South America’s most famous
sights in one trip, visiting Machu Picchu in Peru
and the Galapagos Islands of Ecuador. This itinerary
has an unhurried exploration of the heart of the
Inca empire in and around Cuzco before a visit
to the Galapagos, getting up close to the
incredible wildlife.
Day 1
Day 2
Enjoy a tour of the colonial ‘old city’.
Day 3
Fly to Coca and continue by motor
canoe to your chosen Amazon lodge.
Days 4-5
Excursions in the rainforest.
Day 6
Retrace your steps to Quito for
one night.
Days 7-13 Fly to the Galapagos and board your
next destination.
Day 14
Day 15
Disembark your boat. Fly to
Guayaquil and connect with your
flight home.
Day 1
Day 2
Enjoy a tour of the colonial ‘old city’.
Optional afternoon trip to the
Equatorial Monument.
Day 3
Travel north to Otavalo, for a night in
a historic hacienda.
Day 4
Visit the colourful Otavalo market;
afternoon return to Quito.
Day 5
Travel south of Quito through
the ‘Avenue of the Volcanoes’
to Riobamba.
Day 6
Take the train to Alausí and enjoy
the thrill of riding the famous ‘Devil’s
Nose’ train; continue by road to
Cuenca via the Inca ruins at Ingapirca.
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
Enjoy a hacienda stay in either Cotopaxi or near
Otavalo before or after your Amazon trip.
Alternatively, extend your time in the Galapagos
with a few days’ rest and relaxation at a
comfortable hotel after your cruise.
Day 7
Morning sightseeing in
colonial Cuenca.
Day 8
Travel by road through El Cajas
National Park to the port city
of Guayaquil.
next destination.
Day 14
Day 15
Disembark your boat. Fly back to
Guayaquil and connect with your
flight home.
Day 1
Day 2
Fly on to Cuzco, where the
afternoon is at leisure to acclimatise.
Day 3
A comprehensive tour of the
highlights of Cuzco and the nearby
Inca ruins.
Day 4
Travel into the Sacred Valley of the
Incas, visit Inca ruins and a colourful
local market.
Day 5
enjoy a guided tour of the citadel.
Day 6
Return to the ruins in the morning to
explore further before taking the
train back to Cuzco.
Day 7
Fly from Cuzco to Quito in Ecuador.
Day 8
Enjoy a tour of the capital of
Ecuador and a visit to the Equatorial
Monument.
vessel for a three night voyage. Daily
excursions on the islands sailing
overnight to your next destination.
Day 12
Fly back to Guayaquil and connect
with your international flight home.
Day 13
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
Add some time in the Amazon before or after
heading to Otavalo and before heading south
through the Avenue of Volcanoes. Alternatively,
extend your time in Cuenca to visit the
Gualaceo region.
Add some time in the Amazon basin in Peru or
Ecuador. Alternatively take the Andean Explorer
train from Cuzco across the high altiplano to Lake
Titicaca to visit the curious islands and admire
the stunning scenery before flying up to Ecuador.
Squirrel monkey, Ecuadorian Amazon
●
01993 838 655
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Colombia
itting at the top of South America
and the only country to span
both Pacific and Caribbean coasts,
Colombia is perhaps the continent’s
best kept secret. It’s a sunny, temperate
land that can be visited year-round,
offering pristinely preserved colonial
towns such as Cartagena and Villa
de Leyva and diverse natural
habitats with its rainforests and
national parks full of astonishing
animal and bird diversity. Added to
this is a world-famous coffee culture
and some fabulous unspoilt coastline.
The country’s exuberant people enjoy
revelry and culture and have a
continent-wide reputation as the
most friendly and welcoming of
South American nations. Perhaps
this is to be expected as they are
determined to prove that there is
more to their country than the clichéd
image it holds around the world.
S
Dancer, Cartagena festival
2 Tayrona National Park
Jungle-covered coastline
boasting idyllic beaches and
diverse wildlife.
3 Villa de Leyva
A perfectly preserved colonial
town in the hills, with a relaxed
pace of life and ideal to wander
around on foot.
2
1
3
5
Cartagena
4
1 Cartagena
A beautiful and lively colonial
city on the Caribbean coast,
declared a UNESCO World
Heritage Site.
Villa de Leyva
4 The Coffee Region
Stunning rolling landscapes of
coffee plantations and exquisite
fincas. A place to relax, learn
and drink.
5 Medellín
Colombia’s second city is a
mix of modern and traditional
style and an interesting place
to explore.
Tayrona National Park
44
Audley in Colombia
For many reasons Colombia has had a lot
of press coverage over the years, and has
developed a reputation that may deter
many people from visiting. But, after decades
of civil conflict, the country has entered a
period of stable government, and as a
result visitor numbers to this beautiful
country are increasing. Colombia is now
without doubt one of our favourite
destinations in Latin America for a diverse
and enthralling experience, albeit one for
those with an adventurous spirit and a desire
to see somewhere still off the tourism radar.
Local bus, Medellín
Bogotá
Zona Cafetera
Colombia’s capital city is a place of contrasts,
from bustling modern areas of architectural glass
and glitz, to La Candelaria, the charming colonial
old town and bohemian quarter. Here colourful
buildings and 400-year old churches dot narrow
cobbled streets leading to leafy plazas, packed
with restaurants, coffee shops and nightclubs.
The city has a rich cultural calendar with many
literary and arts festivals to enjoy and a selection
of excellent museums including one which
houses the world’s most important collections
of pre-Hispanic gold. Although not generally a
major focus of a trip to Colombia, Bogotá is
nevertheless worth a look.
Colombia is synonymous with coffee – its rich,
full-bodied beans have been savoured around the
globe for almost two hundred years. The coffee
region (known as the ‘Zona Cafetera’) is centred
around the towns of Pereira and Armenia and it
is becoming something of an attraction, with
visitors coming to stay in its traditional fincas to
sample the delicious rich roasts at source. If you
have a real interest in coffee then coffee-tasting
courses can be arranged here. Geographically the
area is stunning, with spectacular panoramas of
rolling hillsides and lush fertile valleys, all full of
plantations. Whether you drink coffee or not,
this area is known as the heart and soul of the
country and so a few days here gives an
experience of the real Colombia at its friendliest
and most welcoming.
Medellín
Medellín, Colombia’s second largest city, has a
vibrant but easy-going pace and extremely
welcoming people. Perched high in the central
Cordillera overlooking a valley, this beguiling city,
one of the Andes’ most northerly, has mountain
views from every angle and feels like a friendly
provincial town. Dubbed the ‘City of Eternal
Spring’ because of its year-round temperate
climate, its once troubled history is now
thankfully a thing of the past and visitors here
will enjoy a lively cultural scene and buzzing
nightlife. Wandering Medellin’s narrow streets
enables visitors to experience the eclectic mix
of museums and exhibitions, and stop off at a
typical cafe where you can sample delicious
local empanadas. Close to Medellín is the
colonial town of Santa Fe de Antioquia which
is worth a day trip to see its finely preserved
historical centre.
We arrange trips to many regions, from
the Caribbean coast in the north, to the
Andean cities, right down to the Amazon
basin in the southeast. You will find
Colombian people most welcoming, and we
try to plan our itineraries to give you a good
introduction to Colombian life, combined
with the more obvious attractions such as
Cartagena. Our group of hand-picked guides
are delighted to have the opportunity to
show off their country.
Accommodation
Accommodation throughout the country
varies dramatically from town to town, and
coast to coast. The large cities of Bogotá and
Cartagena have excellent hotels available to
suit all budgets from charming boutique
properties in lovingly restored colonial
buildings to luxurious five star options. In the
coffee region, we use beautiful fincas that
make for a peaceful base to explore from
and let you really get under the skin of rural
Colombia. Outside of these main areas,
however, the accommodation choice is
limited, although it is gradually growing as
the country starts to develop its visitor
infrastructure. But whilst you may not be
assured of all creature comforts you are
certainly assured of a warm welcome.
Find out more
information about travel in Colombia,
please see page 47.
☎ Discuss your plans with our Colombia
Coffee plantation near Pereira
Colombia 45
Cartagena
Villa de Leyva
Villa de Leyva, four hours by road from Bogotá
(via the underground salt cathedral at Zipaquirá),
has become something of a chic getaway for
those who live in the capital. Founded in 1572,
the beautifully preserved colonial town, with its
boutiques and galleries amid whitewashed
buildings and cobbled plazas, was declared a
national monument in 1954. The town’s main
square, a vast expanse bordered by elegant
colonial buildings, is steeped in character and is
reputedly the largest of its kind in the country.
Walk its sleepy streets and you’ll come across a
selection of churches, all dating back to the
16th and early 17th centuries. Close by in the
beautiful surrounding countryside you can visit
pre-Colombian archaeological sites, or enjoy
some horse riding or gentle walks.
Today, observing its beautiful cobbled streets with
their brightly coloured buildings with balconies
brimming with flowers – some of the best
preserved examples of colonial architecture in
South America – you’ll feel like you’re taking a
step back in time. The city’s port, fortress and
monuments have deservedly been declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. A sultry climate
and coastal breeze adds to the romanticism of
this wonderful cultural gem where the past and
present collide in a lively and multicultural mix.
A rugged, tropical paradise, Tayrona National Park
is carved out of equatorial rainforest at the edge
of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain
Cartagena
The city of Cartagena epitomises the country
of Colombia with its energy, culture and history.
Founded in 1533 by the Spanish, it is nestled on
the Caribbean coast and is a joy to visit and
explore. Historically fascinating, this walled city
was once a major gateway to South America,
used as a centre to store the riches plundered
from the interior of the continent and as a
hub for slave trading, which in turn meant it
became a magnet for pirates and buccaneers.
46
range. The wild and untouched jungle here is
one of the most biologically diverse in the
region, home to over 200 species of bird and a
huge variety of mammals and reptiles, including
jaguars and monkeys. Located just over 140
kilometres from the colonial city of Cartagena,
the palm-fringed white sand beaches of Tayrona
National Park are wild and untouched with
massive sea-sculpted boulders sitting in its
turquoise waters. This area is a peaceful place to
get away from it all and experience a natural
wonderland on Colombia’s most picturesque
stretch of coastline. Accommodation here is in
the fine Tayrona Eco Habs, a selection of
individual thatched huts perched on the edge
of the forest overlooking the Caribbean sea.
Tailoring your trip
Cartagena
Villa de
Leyva
Please call one of our Colombia specialists to
start planning your itinerary.
Armenia
Bogotá
Telephone: 01993 838 683
Getting around
Local lady, Cartagena
Travelling around the main areas of Colombia is
fairly straightforward, all places are accessible by
short internal flights and we try to use interesting
road trips where possible. We do not use any of
the road crossings to adjacent countries, but
Bogotá has good international flight connections
with its South American neighbours.
When to go
Fly from the UK to Bogotá.
Day 2
Tour of La Candelaria, the historical
centre of Bogotá.
Day 3
Travel by road to Villa de Leyva via
the Salt Cathedral at Zipaquirá.
Day 4
The climate of Colombia does not vary much
throughout the year, although on average the
driest months are December to February. This
time coincides with when Colombians themselves
take their holidays so accommodation tends to
be busier and more expensive.
Time to explore Villa de Leyva on
foot, and maybe some of the
surrounding countryside on
horseback.
Day 5
Travel by road back to Bogotá and fly
to Armenia in the heart of the coffee
region, where you will stay in a
traditional finca.
Day 6
Take a tour around the towns and
coffee plantations of this region.
Day 7
Free day to relax in your finca.
Day 8
Travel back to Armenia and fly to
Cartagena.
Day 9
Enjoy a guided walking tour of the
walled centre of Cartagena.
Day 10
At leisure to further explore the city
and surroundings, or just to relax and
soak up the atmosphere.
Day 11
Take a drive along the Caribbean
coast to Tayrona National Park.
Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓✓ ✓✓
Popayán & San Augustin
Located in southern Colombia is the town of
Popayán, bedecked with whitewashed colonial
architecture. A university city, founded in 1537,
it has a youthful energy and is famous
throughout Colombia for its wild and colourful
street celebrations during Easter week. Several
hours by road from Popayán is the little town
of San Agustín which is close to the ‘Valley of
the Statues’, an archaeological site dating from
pre-Conquest times.
Amacayacu National Park
This tour takes in the main highlights of Colombia
at a comfortable pace, on a route that is fairly well
established despite the infancy of tourism in the
country. Combining city life, wonderful countryside
retreats and the Caribbean coast, this itinerary
captures the true spirit of Colombia.
Day 1
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓
Beach, Providencia Island
Classic Colombia
~
✕
Prices
prices for your trip to Colombia on our website,
discuss your plans.
Amacayacu National Park in the Amazon
rainforest is home to an extraordinary array of
wildlife and is an ideal setting to observe
nature’s exoticism up close. Here you can find
over 450 bird species, an array of monkeys
including the world’s smallest, six species of
crocodile and the world’s largest fresh water
turtle. This incredible region is accessible by
boat an hour from the town of Leticia.
Day 14
Fly to Bogotá and connect with your
international flight home.
Day 15
Arrive in the UK.
Caribbean Islands
Stay longer
Days 12-13 Free time to explore Tayrona
National Park whilst staying in
beachside accommodation.
Extend your trip from the coffee region up to
Colombia’s second city, Medellín. Alternatively get
off the beaten track and fly to Popoyán in the
south of the country to visit the statues and ruins
at San Augustín.
The Caribbean islands of San Andrés and
Providencia, located 480 kilometres off the
northern coast of Colombia, offer alternative,
simple beachside guesthouses with beautiful
white-sand beaches and good diving
opportunities.
Maria del Carmen church, Bogotá
www.audleytravel.com/colombia
●
01993 838 683
●
Colombia 47
Venezuela
ast and little-visited, Venezuela
is a beautiful country that
stretches from the snow-capped Andes
of the west down to the vast jungles
of the Orinoco Delta and from the
flat-topped ‘Lost World’ mountains
of the south to palm-fringed beaches
along its Caribbean coast. In fact,
Venezuela has the longest stretch of
Caribbean coastline of any single
nation and the gorgeous beaches here
and on its offshore islands make the
country worth a visit alone. It is
this north of the country where the
majority of the population lives, most
of the rest of the country sees nature
firmly in charge. Venezuela is home
to the some of the most unique
landscapes on the planet including
South America’s largest lake, the
world’s highest waterfall and, for a
different type of natural beauty, the
most winners of the Miss World and
Miss Universe contests.
V
Angel Falls
1 Los Llanos
Experience some of the best
bird and wildlife spotting
opportunities in South America
in these vast grasslands.
3
4
2
1
4 Orinoco Delta
A beautiful rainforest where
visitors can gain an insight into
the traditional ways of life of
the Warao Indians.
2 Mérida
The university city of Mérida
offers great scenic outdoor
activities such as trekking,
mountain biking, paragliding and
birdwatching in the surrounding
Andean countryside.
3 Los Roques
5
6
An archipelago of stunning
white sandy beaches and simple
accommodation with a laid-back
Caribbean feel.
Los Roques
5 Angel Falls
The highest waterfall in the
world, 12 times the height of
Niagara Falls with a single drop
of 978 metres.
6 Gran Sabana
This vast table top mountain
landscape is Venezuela’s largest
national park and was the
inspiration for Conan Doyle’s
‘The Lost World’.
Anteater, Los Llanos
48
Caracas
Bordered to the north by the wooded peaks of
the Avila National Park, the city of Caracas is
Venezuela’s capital and gateway to the country.
Although the city has a gritty reputation, with
extremes of poverty and, mainly oil-produced,
wealth standing side by side, it is a predominantly
modern, fast-paced and cosmopolitan city with
a great culinary reputation, some interesting
museums and endless shopping and nightlife
options. Most visitors use the city as a starting
point or hub for their travels along the Caribbean
coast, or south to the country’s centre.
Angel Falls and Canaima
The world’s highest waterfall is an astounding
sight with its water tumbling off the precipice for
a sheer drop of 978 metres. Located in the rural
southeast of the country in the middle of
Canaima National Park, it says much about its
remoteness that this incredible natural wonder
was only reported in the 1930s, by American
pilot Jimmy Angel who crash-landed here while
looking for gold. So great is the impact of the
water thundering into its basin in the pristine
jungle, that the mists created can be felt a mile
away. The Angel Falls feeds many tributaries of
the River Carrao, which in turn flows into the
vast Canaima Lagoon. It is on the shores of this
lagoon that most lodges are situated, providing a
base to visit the waterfall and the surrounding
area. Even now, there is no land access, the Angel
Falls can only be reached by motorised canoe up
the River Carrao or by a spectacular light-aircraft
overflight, making the experience something of
an adventure.
ANGEL FALLS BASECAMP
Close to the base of the Angel Falls are campsites
that offer an unrivalled location allowing you to
see the falls at the end of the day and first thing
in the morning. Facilities are basic and include
hammocks for sleeping, mosquito nets, flush
toilets and outdoor cold water showers.
Gran Sabana
Gran Sabana (‘Great Plain’) is part of Venezuela’s
biggest protected national park and where you’ll
find one of South America’s most extraordinary
settings. Giant waterfalls cascade into lagoons,
some of whose waters are an incredible red,
coloured by the wealth of minerals they contain,
and edged with pink quartz sand. Giant sweeping
prairies are punctuated by imposing table-top
mountains, such as Mount Roraima, considered
one of the oldest geological formations on earth.
Ideally visited on three or four day safaris by jeep,
you can witness these magnificent, surreal
mountains best by camping in the vast wilderness.
Roraima can be climbed over the course of a
challenging six-day trek.
Few travellers visit Venezuela – that’s a
key part of its appeal – but this does make
the experience something of a challenge.
The tourism infrastructure is not very
well-developed, and over recent years the
government has shown little interest in
getting more involved, which has led to no
improvement in service or facilities. You’ll
also find that, outside Caracas, English is
rarely spoken, so it’s important when
exploring Venezuela to ensure your plans are
arranged carefully and that is where we
come in. Our specialists know the country
well, and can create an itinerary that will
enable you to see the parts that match your
interests in the best available comfort, and
with the best available guides. At the time of
going to press the political situation in
Venezuela was somewhat volatile, and even
though visitor areas are rarely affected, we
always keep abreast of current developments
and will be able to advise of any
noteworthy developments.
Accommodation
WAKU LODGE, CANAIMA
Waku Lodge has the best location of all the
lodges in Canaima, situated right on the banks
of the tanin coloured Canaima Lagoon with a
spectacular view of the El Hacha, Golondrina and
Ucaima waterfalls. The surrounding gardens are
beautifully sculpted and are home to various tame
parrots and macaws. There are only 15 en suite
rooms all individually decorated in a traditional
style with air-conditioning, hot water shower and
semi-private terraces with hammocks.
Audley in Venezuela
Gran Sabana
Venezuela has some good accommodation
but this is limited to Caracas, Los Roques and
a few lodges around Canaima. Many of the
hotels on the Venezuelan mainland are now
state-owned which has resulted in a dip in
the service and food standards. The posadas
we use on Los Roques are still under
independent or foreign ownership at the
time of writing, and the service levels here
are more in line with international
expectations. Outside of the aforementioned
centres accommodation is often basic and
very little English is spoken but, as with
Venezuela as a whole, the stunning
location and environment makes up for
these shortcomings.
Mérida
Surrounded by Venezuela’s highest snow-capped
peaks, the lively university city of Mérida is at the
centre of the country’s Andean region. It is an
attractive city with a gentle, friendly atmosphere,
steep streets and some enchanting colonial
buildings. The surrounding countryside varies
between highland moors, beautiful glacial lakes
and tropical forests. You can visit small, traditional
villages, where life still proceeds at the gradual
pace of a climbing donkey eking an existence
from the sheer mountain slopes. Currently, one
of Mérida’s major attractions, the world’s highest
and second longest cable car is closed, but the
city still offers the outdoor enthusiast superb
walking, mountain biking, horse riding, white
water rafting, paragliding and birdwatching in
the surrounding Andean countryside.
Find out more
information about travel in Venezuela, please
see page 51.
☎ Discuss your plans with our Venezuela
Waku Lodge
Venezuela 49
Scarlet ibis, Los Llanos
Los Llanos
A marvellous place for wildlife spotting, Los
Llanos is a vast, seasonally flooded savannah that
spreads across Venezuela’s heartland towards the
Colombian border. Flat and fertile, it rivals Brazil’s
Pantanal for biodiversity but with far fewer
visitors. Five national parks protect wildlife that
ranges from anteaters to anacondas, as well as a
spectacular variety of birds, monkeys, big cats,
river dolphins, caiman and capybara.
HATO EL CEDRAL, LOS LLANOS
Hato El Cedral is a working cattle ranch in the
heart of Los Llanos. It offers fantastic wildlife and
birdlife viewing opportunities on its land as well as
insight into the lives of the Llaneros. There are 25
air-conditioned, simply furnished en suite rooms,
all in cabin style buildings. El Cedral has a small
swimming pool and the kitchen produces
traditional Llanos dishes - you may even get to try
capybara! Twice a day you will be taken out on
wildlife excursions either by motorboat down the
river or by safari-style truck across the plains with
native and English speaking guides.
Los Roques
Only a 30 minute flight from Caracas the white
sands and azure waters of Los Roques make a
perfect place to start or end your trip. The
shallow, turquoise seas are a fantastic spot for
relaxing, diving, snorkelling, sailing and fishing for
bonefish. None of the 350 islands are populated
except for Gran Roque, the main island, where
you can stay in a charming whitewashed
guesthouse or posada. The family owners will
look after you, cook beautifully prepared seafood
meals and take you to nearby beaches.
POSADA MEDITERRANEO,
GRAN ROQUE
This lovely quaint posada, with only seven rooms,
is Italian owned. It is typically Mediterranean in
style with whitewashed walls, wooden shutters,
tiled floors and a great roof terrace. The rooms
are all en suite, with air-conditioning and are
thoughtfully decorated.
Paría Peninsula
Only a short flight from Caracas but less visited
than Los Roques, the Paría Peninsula is a totally
unspoilt, lush area of palm-forested hills and long,
sheltered golden beaches backed by banana and
cacao plantations. Its calm, clear, warm seas are
perfect for swimming, fishing or simply relaxing.
Almost a third of the bird species recorded in
Venezuela can be found here, including the native
scissor-tailed hummingbird. The simple posada
style accommodation offers a more affordable
option than the better known Los Roques.
POSADA PLAYA
LA CIGALA, GRAN ROQUE
The simple La Cigala has nine comfortable
rooms with ceiling fans and hot showers. The
posada is about 50 metres from the sea and has
a beautiful open kitchen-diner, adjacent lounge
area and an ample rooftop terrace ideal for
watching the sunset.
Turquoise waters of Los Roques
50
DE
UVA
This small beachside posada has ten rooms and
six villas, all a short walk from the small, generally
deserted, beach of Playa de Uva. The larger
beaches of Playa Medina and Playa Pui Puy can
easily be accessed by road or sea. The posada is
able to offer a variety of excursions in the region
including visits to the nearby cacao plantations.
Tailoring your trip
Please call one of our Venezuela specialists to
Islas Los Roques
Caracas
Puerto
Ordaz
Los Llanos
Canaima
Telephone: 01993 838 625
Getting around
Warao girls, Orinoco Delta
Venezuela is a vast country and therefore
travelling by air is the only way to cover the
distance between the main sights. Patience is
often key to a successful trip to Venezuela as
these domestic flights can be a law unto
themselves with unannounced schedule changes
occurring regularly. Where road transfers can be
undertaken these are by comfortable 4x4 vehicles
although English-speaking drivers can be difficult
to find in many rural locations.
When to go
Jan
✓
Orinoco crocodile, Los Llanos
Orinoco Delta
Rivalling the biodiversity of the Amazon and
the lifeline to an even greater variety of
indigenous tribes, the great Orinoco River
threads through Venezuela and spills out into
the Atlantic through a vast, jungled delta. Far
less known, and less visited, than its big sister
river to the south, the Orinoco offers a rare
opportunity to explore a fragile ecosystem
and, although wildlife is difficult to spot these
days, the delta provides a unique chance to
interact with the local Warao Indians.
Expeditions start at the pretty riverside town
of Ciudad Bolívar or the larger city of Puerto
Ordaz, with transport by motorised canoe
and accommodation is in simple traditional
thatched huts.
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
✓
✓
✓
Immerse yourself in the best that Venezuela has
to offer in an adventurous trip that will see you
travel the breadth of the country. Take in Los
Llanos for some fantastic wildlife viewing, the
breathtaking Angel Falls and slow the pace down
at the end for some time relaxing on the shores
of the Caribbean.
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Caracas.
Day 2
Fly to Barinas, transfer by road to
your accommodation in the vast
Los Llanos.
Days 3-4
Excursions to spot the wildlife in
Los Llanos.
Day 5
Fly to Puerto Ordaz, via Caracas,
where you will spend one night.
Day 6
Fly to Canaima, your base for
explorations of the ‘Lost World’
tepuis of the Gran Sabana and Angel
Falls. Afternoon tour of the lagoon.
Day 7
Take a scenic flight over Angel Falls
(weather permitting).
Day 8
Enjoy an optional full day trip by
motorised canoe to the base of
Angel Falls (weather permitting).
Day 9
Fly to Caracas and then on to Los
Roques in the Caribbean.
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓
✓
✓
~
✕
Venezuela’s climate is tropical, with wet and dry
seasons rather than hot and cold, with average
temperatures primarily affected by altitude.
The wet season runs between May and October
where sunny days give way to afternoon
downpours. This is the best time to visit if the
Angel Falls is on your itinerary as water levels
will be at their highest. Travelling around the
remainder of the country can be equally
rewarding at any time of the year and the
Caribbean coast tends to miss much of the
inland rainfall.
Time difference: GMT-4.5 hours
Days 10-12 Relax, snorkel or sunbathe on the
beautiful beaches of Los Roques.
Day 13
Fly back to Caracas to connect with
your international flight.
Day 14
Arrive in the UK.
Prices
prices for your trip to Venezuela on our website,
discuss your plans.
Canaima Lagoon
Classic Venezuela
Stay longer
Divert from Los Llanos to the university city of
Mérida in the Andes, the perfect base for trekking
and other outdoor activities, or you could include
a few nights in the Orinoco Delta to gain an insight
into the life of Warao Indians. Alternatively, try a
different beach stop on the Paría Peninsula, home
to long sandy beaches and cacao plantations.
Anaconda, Los Llanos
www.audleytravel.com/venezuela
●
01993 838 625
●
Venezuela 51
Guyana, Suriname & French Guiana
queezed in between Venezuela
and Brazil on the Caribbean
coast is the small English-speaking
country of Guyana and its
neighbours of Suriname and French
Guiana. These countries are a delight
for the intrepid traveller and those
who want to visit genuinely
untouched wilderness and experience
a unique melting pot of cultures.
The countries are diverse, with
official languages of English, Dutch
and French combined with Asian,
African and Creole influences and
flavours. They are packed with
appeal, yet scarcely visited, and to
take a journey here is really to take
a step into uncharted territory.
The natural world is the key
attraction; from virgin rainforest
to rolling savannah, not to mention
spectacular birdlife and mammals
that include giant river otters and
jaguar. There is much to explore in
this remote corner of the continent.
S
Emerald tree boa
1 Kaieteur Falls, Guyana
A breathtaking sheet of water,
the Potaro River pours over
a sheer drop of over 230
metres (five times the height
of Niagara).
2 Surama, Guyana
Deep in the rainforest, visit
the home of an Amerindian
community of the Macushi tribe,
now a thriving and awardwinning eco-tourism initiative.
4
1
5
2
3
3 Rupununi Savannah,
Guyana
Explore these wildlife-rich
grasslands by boat or
horseback and hear fascinating
‘outback’ tales.
Giant otter
4 Galibi Nature Reserve,
Suriname
See the spectacle of hundreds
of turtles coming ashore to lay
eggs, or watch the resulting
baby turtles head to the sea
for the first time.
5 Space Centre, Kourou,
French Guiana
Take a tour of the launch base
of the European Space Agency,
it is from here that the Ariane
and Soyuz rockets have lifted off.
Golden frog
52
Georgetown, Kaieteur Falls
and Orinduik Falls
Audley in Guyana
Suriname & French Guiana
The capital of Georgetown will usually be the
place to start and end your trip to Guyana. It is
the only settlement of size in the country and is a
relaxed, tropical place with picturesque areas of
white wooden 19th century houses on stilts.
From here you can fly into the heart of Guyana’s
forested interior where, backed by the Pakaraima
mountains, Kaieteur Falls is a particularly aweinspiring spectacle. The lush surroundings of the
falls are home to flora and fauna including tank
bromeliads, golden frogs and the cock-of-the-rock
bird. Further south, Orinduik Falls are very
different; the wide Ireng river roars over a series
of steppes and terraces, leaving behind natural
fizzing pools where you can take a dip.
Visitors to Guyana number less than 3,000
a year, indicating just how far off most
travellers’ radar it is. However, we take
particular care to promote ecologically
sensitive travel in this unspoilt environment.
Your trip, which will have been planned
according to your preferences for wildlife
spotting, adventure and trekking, or just a
general overview of the region, will make use
of the range of lodges which are dotted
throughout the country. Combining Guyana
with Suriname or French Guiana is done by
overland transfers across the borders or
flights between the capital cities. There is
very little infrastructure that links these
countries to their giant neighbours of
Venezuela and Brazil, although air and road
links are gradually improving. However beach
breaks in the Caribbean islands of Barbados,
Trinidad and Tobago, Dominica and St Lucia
can be arranged either before or after your
trip. Travelling with a sense of adventure and
an understanding of the standards of this
infrastructure will ensure a trip to these
countries is a great experience.
Surama, Iwokrama and the
Central Rainforest
Surrounded by savannah, forest and mountains,
Surama is an isolated and idyllic spot offering
simple ecolodge accommodation and an insight
into Macushi tribal life. Activities, led by a member
of the community and local naturalist guides,
range from tours of the village to dawn hikes,
bird-spotting and canoeing along the Burro Burro
river. Iwokrama, in the central rainforest, is an
area dedicated to the study of conservation and
sustainable rainforest development, and offers
the chance of sighting the elusive jaguar, along
with other wildlife.
Hooded capuchin monkey, Guyana
Suriname
Paramaribo, the lively capital of Suriname, has
been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site
thanks to the fusion between European
(predominantly Dutch) and indigenous South
American culture and colonial architecture. The
other main highlight of Suriname is the Galibi
Nature Reserve which lies approximately 100
kilometres east along the coast from Paramaribo.
It is a primary nesting site for four species of
turtle. Visit between April to July to see
leatherbacks, olive ridley, green and hawksbill
turtles come ashore to lay eggs, and miniature
hatchlings scuttle out to sea in their droves.
Practicalities
Rupununi Savannah
The Rupununi savannah is a vast, seasonally
flooded plain sandwiched between the Rupununi
River and the Brazilian border. It is teeming with
wildlife and a large variety of bird species including
the elusive harpy eagle. This area is renowned
for its award-winning conservation projects such
as those at Karananbu Lodge which welcomes
guests into simple cabanas. The Karanambu Trust
has won numerous awards for protecting and
rehabilitating giant river otters in the area.
Further south, Guyana’s largest and most remote
ranch of Dadanawa offers basic accommodation
and an experience of a real working ranch.
Alternatively, Maipaima Ecolodge is in Nappi, and
is a community-run project offering a rewarding
chance for birdwatching.
Kaiteur Falls, Guyana
French Guiana
Probably the most famous site in French Guiana
is near Kourou where the European Space
Agency has its launch site. Guided tours of the
main installations and the mission control room
are possible, plus there is a space museum and
exhibitions. This site, northwest of the capital of
Cayenne, was chosen by French Prime Minister
Georges Pompidou in 1965 on the basis of
criteria including its proximity to the equator.
This means that rockets benefit from a ‘catapult
effect’ as a result of the increased speed of the
Earth’s spin at this point. Another place of interest
is Devil’s Island. Made famous by prisoner and
escapee Henri Charrière in his best-selling book
‘Papillon’, Devil’s Island is the most secure and
least accessible of the three volcanic islands in
the notorious convict settlement of Iles du Salut,
offshore between Cayenne and Kourou.
Despite their harsh past, the islands’ wild beauty
wins visitors over these days, and a visit by
sailboat reveals lush palm-filled slopes and
rock-strewn beaches.
Accommodation options in Guyana are
limited in that there is generally only one
place to stay in each location you visit. Many
of these properties are basic, some without
electricity, but the focus of a trip to Guyana
is the country, not the accommodation.
Getting around is mainly by 4x4, boats and
light aircraft. Guyana is best avoided during
the main rainy season from May to July and
there is also a short rainy season that affects
Georgetown from December to January. In
Suriname, the major rains fall from April to
July, but if you are keen to see the turtles
hatching, you need to visit during this time.
Find out more
information about travel in Guyana, Suriname
and French Guiana, please see our website.
☎ Discuss your plans with our specialists
01993 838 605
Maipaima Ecolodge, Nappi village, Guyana
Guyana, Suriname & French Guiana 53
The Caribbean
he Caribbean is famous for its
wonderful sandy beaches, sunny
climate, warm seas and relaxed pace
of life. Due to its proximity, a number
of travellers consider the region for a
relaxing start or finish to their South
America trip. The islands vary in
terms of the scenery, atmosphere and
hotel options, but one thing for sure is
they are guaranteed to offer a friendly
welcome. Whether you decide to sit on
the beach for the length of your stay or
prefer to break up the relaxing with
some activities such as snorkelling or
diving in crystal clear waters that
host shoals of fish and turtles, the
Caribbean is a perfect unwinding
accompaniment to your South
America adventure.
T
Beach, Tobago
1 Aruba, Bonaire
and Curaçao
The easiest islands to get to
from South America, ideal for
a few days of relaxation.
2 Trinidad & Tobago
Unspoilt and incredibly relaxed.
3 St Lucia
A picturesque island, with its twin
volcanic peaks soaring above the
golden sand and azure waters.
6
4 Barbados
A favourite of the British for
many years, an island with
wonderful hotels.
5
3
4
1
2
Diving in the Caribbean
54
5 Dominica
Known as the ‘Nature Isle’, a
largely unspoilt and lush island.
6 Dominican Republic
Great beaches with a
mixture of lively resorts and
quiet getaways.
The Bahamas
Columbus is believed to have
made his first landing on one
of these 29 beautiful islands in
1492 (not shown on map).
Audley in the Caribbean
Whilst the Atlantic and Caribbean coasts
of mainland South America offer the visitor
some wonderful beaches, particularly in
Brazil, Venezuela and Colombia, the long
Pacific coast does not have much, if anything,
in the way of places to relax with more-orless guaranteed sunshine and warm seas.
Time in the Caribbean is therefore often
considered for rest and relaxation after a trip
around South America.
We do not offer a full range of
accommodation and excursions in the
Caribbean. We also do not specialise in two
week beach packages to the islands featured
on these pages. Most of our clients choose
to travel to the Caribbean as an extension to
their South America trip. This is where we
come in as we are able to make use of a
wide range of airlines to enable convenient
connections to your chosen island.
Willemstad, Curaçao
Aruba, Bonaire & Curaçao
Practicalities
Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao are the major islands
that make up the archipelago formerly known as
the Dutch Antilles. All offer year round sunshine
and good beaches, mixed with a charm that
comes from their melting pot heritage of
indigenous inhabitants, Dutch colonialists and
African slaves.
Bonaire is currently the most easily accessible
island for visitors to South America as it
is a stopover on KLM transatlantic flights to
Ecuador. It has a consistently warm climate with
temperatures averaging 28C year round, there is
little rainfall and humidity is low. As well as a great
place to relax on a beach and do nothing, Bonaire
is a good destination for scuba diving and
snorkelling. The clear waters off the island’s coast
have been declared a marine park, preserving the
reefs in pristine condition, and colourful marine
life is abundant. Should airline schedules change
then we can recommend hotels and excursions
available on either Aruba, or on Curaçao, which
perhaps has the most colonial charm.
Flight connections between South America
and the Caribbean are continually
improving, although it is not always as easy
as one might expect given their close
proximities. There are very few direct
flights between destinations but there are
convenient connections via Central America
and the USA.
Bonaire
Other Caribbean islands
All the islands mentioned have been chosen due
to their flight links with South America. Close to
the coast of Venezuela are the colourful and laidback islands of Trinidad and Tobago, where there
are many picturesque bays, fabulous beaches, and
a year-round carnival atmosphere. Barbados offers
luxurious hotels and high quality restaurants
alongside coral sand beaches and warm turquoise
waters. St Lucia’s reputation as the Caribbean’s
most scenic island is well-founded, it has a lush
tropical landscape, turquoise bays and soaring
volcanic peaks along with pristine white beaches
in the north and black volcanic sands in the south.
Dominica is regarded as one of the most unspoilt
islands in terms of its natural beauty with tropical
forests and coral reefs teeming with marine life,
not to be confused with the Dominican Republic
which offers good hotels, nightlife and pearly
white beaches. Finally the many islands of the
Bahamas, lying close to the Florida coast, offer
stunning beaches and a wide variety of
accommodation options.
Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao, Trinidad and
Tobago lie outside of the Caribbean
hurricane belt and are thus all year-round
destinations, whereas all other islands tend
to be best avoided during hurricane season
from August to October.
Find out more
The Caribbean islands featured on these
pages are best combined with trips to
Peru, Ecuador & the Galapagos, Colombia,
Venezuela and Guyana. For information on
these destinations please consult the
relevant pages of this brochure. Our
specialists for these countries will be best
placed to make plans for your Caribbean
extension.
Fishing boats, St Lucia
Caribbean 55
Central America, Mexico & Cuba
entral America, Mexico and
Cuba – a fascinating region of
breathtaking landscapes, spectacular
wildlife, steamy jungles, turquoise
waters lapping against white sand
beaches and pristine coral reefs.
Throw in ancient ruins entwined in
tropical forests, crumbling colonial
architecture, traditional indigenous
markets and a relentless passion for
music then you have a region that
offers something for everyone. These
countries are all linked to some degree
by their histories, but each has forged
its own distinct identity making
this part of the world a colourful
and unique destination. We have a
dedicated brochure and team of
specialists that cover this region in
depth either as an accompaniment to
your South America adventure or as
a trip within its own right.
C
Keel-billed toucan, Costa Rica
1 Copper Canyon, Mexico
Take a train journey deep into
this remote and wild part of
the country.
3 Lake Atitlán, Guatemala
With a backdrop of three
towering volcanoes, the lake
views are breathtaking and the
shores are dotted with
traditional, colourful villages.
2 Oaxaca, Mexico
A charming colonial city, and
nearby are ancient ruins, Indian
cultures and dramatic scenery.
4 Tikal, Guatemala
Fascinating Mayan ruins in a
stunning jungle setting.
1
5 The Atolls, Belize
The world’s second longest
barrier reef is teeming with
marine life.
6 Arenal Volcano,
Costa Rica
The region’s most active volcano,
and a place to go zip-lining and
enjoy canopy walkways.
7 Osa Peninsula,
Costa Rica
A tranquil and remote part of
the country with spectacular
opportunities for wildlife viewing.
10
8 San Blas Islands, Panama
4
This idyllic group of over
400 palm-fringed islands is
self-governed by the Kuna
Indians who uphold an intriguing
cultural tradition.
5
2
3
6
8
9
7
56
9 Panama Canal, Panama
An incredible feat of engineering.
Watch the ships squeeze through
from one ocean to another.
10 Havana, Cuba
The capital city and pulsating,
vibrant heart of the island.
Audley in Central America,
Mexico and Cuba
Our knowledge of this region is second to
none and we are proud to specialise in fully
tailor-made trips. Some people choose to
spend their time focusing on one country,
exploring in depth whilst others prefer to
visit several in one trip or visit as an
extension to time in South America.
Whichever way you choose to discover the
region we can help you to make the most
of your time. Our specialists have travelled
extensively throughout Central America and
have hand-picked a portfolio of character
hotels, some wonderful guides and a broad
range of excursions. We believe their
enthusiasm and in-depth knowledge is
reflected in our dedicated Central America,
Mexico & Cuba brochure.
Practicalities
Antigua, Guatemala
Chichen Itzá, Mexico
Accommodation in Central America varies
greatly from country to country and there
are endless options. We work with the
regions’ most progressive ecolodges, simple
B&Bs, some charming colonial properties and
luxury hotels which are selected to match
your personal requirements. The region is
best visited between December and April
when days tend to be sunny and rainfall low.
Many Central American countries lie in the
Caribbean ‘hurricane belt’ and, whilst there
are numerous local variances, you should
consult our specialists when considering a
trip between June and October.
Wildlife
Central America brochure
Costa Rica is a natural and appealing choice for
wildlife lovers. From mist-shrouded cloudforests
to tropical rainforests it is a mecca for birdlife and
numerous mammal, reptile and amphibian species.
However it is not alone with neighbouring
Panama offering excellent birdwatching along the
banks of the Panama Canal and on the slopes of
volcanoes in the west of the country. For marine
life, the spectacular coral reefs off the coasts of
Belize and Honduras offer excellent diving and
snorkelling opportunities.
For your copy of our
Central America,
Mexico and Cuba
brochure, please call
our specialists on
01993 838 638.
History
Visitors are reminded of Central America’s rich
history at every turn. Ancient ruins with remnants
of the Aztec, Mayan and Toltec civilisations dot
the continent from northern Mexico through
Guatemala and Belize and into Honduras. These
magnificent sites sit alongside well-preserved
colonial cities and traditional highland market
towns such as Oaxaca and Mérida in Mexico
and Antigua in Guatemala. The Spanish influence
extends further afield with the crumbling cities of
Granada in Nicaragua, the Casco Viejo in Panama
City and Havana in Cuba. The region’s unique
and turbulent modern history also ensures
intriguing trips to Nicaragua and Cuba.
Beaches
Turquoise waters lapping up against white sand
beaches are synonymous with the coastlines of
the Mayan Riviera in Mexico, the cayes off Belize
and the northern shores of Cuba. Costa Rica
and Panama also have delightful beaches along
both the Pacific and Caribbean coastlines making
them popular extensions to trips to the west
coast of South America where good beaches
are in short supply.
Find out more
information about travel in Central America
please see our website.
your plans with our Central
☎ Discuss
America specialists 01993 838 638
Havana, Cuba
Central America 57
Brazil
mmense in size and offering a veritable
wealth of experiences, this South
American giant provides a delightfully
heady mix of natural spectacles, vibrant
cities, intoxicating music and picture
postcard beaches. It is a burgeoning
country, currently investing heavily in its
infrastructure for the forthcoming Olympic
Games and the World Cup, whilst forging
I
58
its own place on the political and economic
world stage. Brazil is a scintillating place
that surpasses all expectations; the smiling
barefoot boys skillfully playing football on
the beach, the colours and sounds of its
famous cities and the steamy expanses of
emerald rainforest are all here, and with so
much more besides. From the roar of the
thundering Iguaçu waterfalls to the cobbled
streets of charming colonial towns of the
northeast, from the Pantanal wetlands and
Amazon basin teeming with wildlife to
deserted sandy beaches, Brazil is a
geographically, ethnically and culturally
diverse country. With the rythmical
soundtrack of a samba or a bossa nova, and
with a caipirinha in hand, jump in and
immerse yourself in the wonder that is Brazil.
Audley in Brazil
8
4
7
9
6
5
Accommodation
2
3
1 Rio de Janeiro
A vibrant buzzing city, with
the iconic sites of Christ the
Redeemer and Sugar Loaf
Mountain, as well as the
fabulous beaches of
Copacabana and Ipanema.
2 Paraty
A charming town whose
cobbled streets are lined with
pretty whitewashed colonial
buildings, many of which house
cafes, restaurants, boutiques
and art galleries.
3 Iguaçu Falls
The stunning horseshoe of 275
individual waterfalls straddling the
Brazilian and Argentinian border.
4 Amazon River
Possibly the most famous river
on earth and certainly the
largest in terms of water volume,
the vast Amazon River winds for
miles through Brazilian tropical
rainforest and is a life source
for the wildlife and people that
live nearby.
5 Ouro Preto
A gorgeous colonial town in
the hills, with many churches
lavishly decorated in the gold
that was mined here during the
18th century.
6 Pantanal
Great for wildlife lovers,
residents of this vast region
include caiman, anteater, giant
river otter, capybara and many
species of bird.
There are different schools of thought when
it comes to travelling to Brazil. Some visitors
want to make the most of the country in one
visit, and therefore see the main highlights
such as Rio, Iguaçu, the Amazon and
Salvador. Doing this entails many hours of
flying over this vast country but for the visitor
who does not plan to return to Brazil then it
is a worthwhile endeavour. The other idea is
to break Brazil up into different regions, and
concentrate on a particular area, such as the
south, or the northeast. Our specialists, who
have all travelled around the country, will be
able to advise on the best trip for you and
give honest opinions on the many sights that
Brazil has to offer. We are also able to
ensure that the trip is as adventurous,
relaxed, luxurious or simple as suits you best.
1
9 Trancoso
One of Brazil`s most stylish
beach retreats that has kept
the feel of a quaint local village,
Trancoso offers a number of
charming pousadas plus miles
of deserted palm-lined beach.
Brazil has a wealth of fine accommodation,
from luxury five star properties to charming
‘pousadas’ (small family-run properties similar
to bed and breakfasts, usually in renovated
colonial buildings) and some lovely beach
resorts dotted along the many miles of
fabulous coastline. Where possible, we like to
make use of the character properties rather
than the chain hotels, and we return regularly
to inspect them to ensure standards remain
high. Outside of the main visitor areas
standards of accommodation can be lower.
Carnival
The biggest party on earth.
Manaus’ Opera House
7 Salvador
An atmospheric city in the
northeast of Brazil, rich in
Portuguese and African history,
with a beautiful colonial centre.
Great food and music on
every corner.
Find out more
information about travel in Brazil, please
see pages 74-75.
8 Lençóis Maranhenses
Huge sand dunes sweep
down to turquoise fresh
water lagoons. Still off the
beaten track, it is well worth
making the effort to get here
to explore.
☎ Discuss your plans with our Brazil
Rio Carnival
Brazil 59
Rio de Janeiro
We can also offer private, fully serviced
apartments across Rio with some of the best
views the city can offer. They make ideal options
for family holidays or travel with a small group
of friends.
Rio de Janeiro
The cariocas (residents of Rio) have a saying that
God created the world in seven days, the eighth
he devoted to Rio de Janeiro. As you stand on
top of the Sugar Loaf Mountain at sunset, with
the city curling its way around the granite peaks,
forests and golden beaches below you, and with
the iconic statue of Christ the Redeemer, arms
aloft, watching over you from Corcovado, you
may be inclined to agree.
The sheer beauty and vibrancy of Rio is
breathtaking. It is a city that will keep you busy
and probably tire you out, whether you are
exploring Tijuca, the world’s largest urban forest,
relaxing with the locals on the golden sands of
Copacabana or Ipanema or taking the rickety
tram to bohemian Santa Teresa district. You
could also take in a football game amid the singing
and drumming of the huge crowds at the mighty
Maracanã, explore one of the city’s ‘favelas’
(shanty towns) with one of our specialist guides,
or wander around the Museum of Contemporary
Art in Niteroi, housed in a voluptuous building
which the architect claims was inspired by all
that is famous in Rio.
At night the city doesn't sleep, with great options
for relaxed live music and samba shows plus a
host of world class restaurants serving fine
Brazilian and international cuisine.
HOMESTAYS
Copacabana Palace, Rio de Janeiro
ACCOMMODATION
IN
IN
RIO
Staying in the home of a carioca gives an
authentic taste of Rio and we can match your
host to your interests. A local organisation has
created a network of Rio professionals who rent
out rooms in their homes on a bed and breakfast
basis. Properties are scattered across the city and,
whilst accommodation is relatively simple, the
experience is rich.
RIO
Rio has a hotel to suit every taste and budget.
Copacabana and Ipanema are the most popular
areas in which to stay, offering a selection of
three to five star beachfront hotels. These districts
also offer exclusive accommodation options. The
most famous of which is, without doubt, the
Copacabana Palace, an art-deco landmark on
Copacabana Beach. For a more modern twist, the
Phillipe Starck-designed Fasano in Ipanema is the
epitome of high fashion and modern lines.
Heading away from the beaches into the
historic Santa Teresa area, there are a selection
of charming boutique hotels. We particularly
like the Santa Teresa Hotel with its wonderful
views over downtown Rio to Botafogo Bay.
Santa Teresa Hotel, Rio de Janeiro
60
Rio Carnival
Copacabana beach, Rio de Janeiro
Mosaic staircase, Santa Teresa
Favela, Rio de Janeiro
Copacabana beach, Rio de Janeiro
Around Rio de Janeiro
Rio de Janeiro is an excellent starting point from
which to get out and explore the surrounding
countryside. A couple of hours north from Rio
you are soon surrounded by Atlantic rainforest,
the perfect environment for walking and trekking
and one of the best places in Brazil for
birdwatching. An excellent option is the Serra dos
Órgãos National Park, famous for its organ pipe
like rock formations, and nearby the Serra dos
Tucanos birding lodge which has recorded over
200 species of bird in its grounds alone.
Carnival
Some of the most striking and colourful
images of Brazil are taken during its world
renowned Carnival, which takes place every
year in the build up to Lent. Carnival time is
an opportunity for Brazil to let its hair down
and take to the streets to enjoy the dancing
and music it is so well known for. For the
international visitor it is an eye opening and
somewhat frenetic collision of colours and
sounds, of scantily-clad Brazilian bodies and
ice cold beer.
The biggest celebrations take place in Rio,
where thousands of brightly-coloured feather
and sequin clad dancers samba their way
through the parade ground of the
Sambadrome to the intoxicating beat of
drums, whistles and the ‘whoops’ of the
crowd. Rio is the place for the grandest
costumes and most impressive parades but
for a more participatory and perhaps
authentic experience of Carnival, the
northeast towns of Salvador, Olinda and
Recife come alive at this time of year. Visitors
can immerse themselves in the action, joining
the crowds of revellers that stream through
the streets following huge papier mache
heads, samba bands and ‘Trio Electricos’ –
huge floats covered in speakers carrying some
of Brazil’s most famous live bands and singers.
Carnival celebrations tend to last for about
a week and there is little respite from the
festivities, especially in the northeast. We also
recommend the Winners’ Parade which takes
place in Rio the weekend after Carnival itself,
featuring the winning samba groups from the
previous week’s parades. It offers a wonderful
taste of the vibrant colours and sounds of
Carnival without the same levels of intensity.
Serra dos Tucanos
www.audleytravel.com/brazil
●
01993 838 610
●
Brazil 61
Paraty and the peaks of the Green Coast’s Atlantic rainforest
Búzios
Ilha Grande
A few hours drive east of Rio, you will come to
the chic, almost Mediterranean resort of Búzios.
The town’s cobbled streets echo its past as a
quiet fishing village, but Búzios was put on the
map by Brigitte Bardot who stayed here in the
1960s, and it has since become a lively but
relaxed place. The town retains a pleasant
atmosphere, and makes for a good beach
extension to any visit to Rio. Situated on a small
peninsula that is scalloped by sandy beaches, you
can snorkel, scuba, island hop on schooners or
beach hop on buggies, lie in the sun or make the
most of the cafes, restaurants and shops. There
are several lovely hotels and pousadas scattered
throughout the town. As well as Vila d’Este
mentioned below we also recommend Pousada
Casas Brancas, Insólito Boutique Hotel and
Pousada Corsário.
Heading west of Rio, the high-rise suburbs give
way to mile upon mile of white sand beaches
backed by emerald rainforest covering rolling hills.
This is Rio state’s ‘Costa Verde’ (Green Coast)
and is the gateway to the jungle covered island of
Ilha Grande, a peaceful haven where motor
vehicles are forbidden and the beaches are divine.
To compliment these idyllic stretches of coastline,
the island is dotted with a number of lovely rustic,
but comfortable, pousadas.
Paraty
Typical Paraty architecture
VILA
D ’E S T E ,
BÚZIOS
Vila d’Este is a small and stylish boutique hotel
with 14 rooms, only a short distance from the
bars and restaurants of Búzios. The rooms are
located around beautifully landscaped gardens,
overlooking the ocean and the beach, which is
directly in front of the hotel. The hotel is
equipped with two small swimming pools, one
with views out across the Atlantic Ocean.
Vila d’Este, Búzios
62
Travelling west along the coast from Ilha Grande
will take you to the delightful colonial town of
Paraty. This peaceful and picturesque town has
changed little since it was the principal port for
the gold trade in the colonial era, and the
cobbled streets and ornate churches are an
absolute delight to wander around. A couple of
days here are a perfect way to relax; there are
bicycle tours heading into the nearby hills, or you
can board a schooner to take you to one of a
multitude of small uninhabited islands just off the
coast. The surrounding waters are very calm and
excellent for swimming, snorkelling and kayaking.
Havaianas on sale, São Paulo
Fishermen, Búzios
Pousada da Marquesa, Paraty
Beach, Ilha Grande
PARATY’S
Ilha Grande
São Paulo
POUSADAS
There are several charming little pousadas in
Paraty that we recommend. All are colonial
houses that have been tastefully restored yet
retain plenty of atmospheric period detail. They
offer elegant accommodation in a friendly and
relaxed environment, our favourites include the
Casa Turquesa, Pousada do Sandi, Pousada da
Marquesa and the Pousada do Ouro.
Whilst not the prettiest city you’ll visit, and
regrettably suffering internationally from a
somewhat poor reputation, São Paulo is in fact an
exciting, vibrant and diverse metropolis. It boasts
fantastic restaurants and bars, galleries and
museums, and a wonderful array of first class
hotels. The Jardim (garden) district is ideal for
shopping and spending time people-watching in
the pavement cafes. Some of the sights in the old
centre include the huge Metropolitan Cathedral,
the ornate Basilica and São Bento Monastery. The
city’s largest green area is the Ibirapuera park
which also houses some excellent galleries and
museums. São Paulo is of course not without its
problems, including overcrowding and congestion,
but if you are a fan of city life, a stay of a night or
two really shouldn’t be missed.
Casa Turquesa, Paraty
POUSADA PICINGUABA,
NEAR PARATY
The delightful Pousada Picinguaba is situated
around half an hour’s drive south of Paraty, on a
calm and peaceful bay with a long sandy beach,
at the heart of a tropical coastal forest running
between Rio and São Paulo. The pousada offers
ten simple but comfortable rooms, the food is
excellent and carefully prepared using the best
local ingredients. There are no TVs or telephones
as the owners of Picinguaba want you to simply
relax and enjoy the gorgeous natural surroundings.
View from Pousada Picinguaba
São Paulo
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Iguaçu Falls
Iguaçu Falls
Minas Gerais
In the south of the country on the border,
between Brazil and Argentina, is one of the
world’s greatest natural phenomena. In the midst
of a subtropical nature reserve, the earth seems
to open up and 275 separate falls crash over a
horseshoe-shaped precipice, nearly five kilometres
wide and 90 metres high. Spectacular all year
round, we recommend two nights here to fully
explore both sides of the falls.
The beautiful towns of Minas Gerais state are
testimony to the wealth generated by Brazil’s
17th and 18th century gold rush. Prospectors
made their fortune on the gold and diamonds
found in the area, and poured the money into
the pockets of artisans who lavishly decorated
the churches. You will not find finer preserved
examples of Baroque art and colonial architecture
anywhere else in Brazil.
The network of walkways on the Brazilian side
provide some wonderful panoramas of this
powerful show, often framed by rainbows. The
surrounding vegetation of the park is also home
to a rich diversity of wildlife species, so while
marvelling at the breathtaking views you may well
experience at close quarters an array of birdlife
and mammals including tapir, capuchin monkey
and the coatamundi, a relation of the racoon.
Other activities to enjoy include a boat safari,
which powers up the river to the base of the
falls (and sometimes beyond).
Hotel das Cataratas, Iguaçu
HOTEL
DAS
CATARATAS, IGUAÇU
The only hotel situated inside the Iguaçu National
Park, the Orient Express-owned Hotel das
Cataratas has a glorious location just a minute
away from the falls. Refurbished in 2009, the
hotel’s 193 rooms and suites are decorated in a
colonial style and there are fine gardens, terraces
and two swimming pools.
ACCOMMODATION
FOZ DE IGUAÇU
AROUND
Apart from das Cataratas, hotel options on the
Brazilian side of the falls are somewhat limited.
There are a couple of simple hotels such as the
Recanto Park and San Martin properties that are
an ideal base for explorations, which are located
close to the Brazilian frontier town of Foz de
Iguaçu. The Argentinian side of the falls (page 87)
offers a wider choice of simple, character hotels.
Macuco safari, Iguaçu Falls
64
Ouro Preto is a picturesque and well preserved
town and is a UNESCO World Cultural
Monument. It is best explored on foot: the steep
streets and whitewashed colonial houses cling to
the hillside and at virtually every turn you will
come across a Baroque church with an
excessively elaborate interior.
Another place steeped in history is the sleepy
town of Tiradentes, whose cobbled streets and
colonial buildings, many of which are occupied by
local artists, wind gently down the hill from the
Santo Antônio church towards the charming
main square.
For the more experienced self driver, it is possible
to explore this area independently. If you have a
little more time or a particular interest in the
history of this area, it is also worth heading to the
delightful town of Diamantina, still a diamondmining town today.
Fishing boat, Florianópolis
Tiradentes
Ouro Preto
Florianópolis
Solar do Rosário, Ouro Preto
HOTEL SOLAR DO ROSÁRIO,
OURO PRETO
A 19th century house that has been renovated
into a fine hotel, the friendly Solar do Rosário is
located by the Church of Nossa Senhora do
Rosário. We particularly like the suites in the
main building, which have high ceilings, elegant
decoration and views of the church. The hotel’s
outdoor areas are also pleasant, with a number
of terraces and a small outdoor pool.
SOLAR
DA
PONTE, TIRADENTES
The owners of the Solar da Ponte have created
a truly exquisite pousada for their guests. The
rooms are cosy, the grounds are spacious, and
the afternoon tea served every day is delicious.
It’s a perfect base from which to explore the
delightful town of Tiradentes.
In the south of Brazil, Florianópolis, or ‘Floripa’ as
it is affectionately known, is a city which straddles
the mainland and the island of Santa Catarina.
The city’s colonial heart has cobbled streets and
interesting architecture, as well as a historical
museum, a cathedral and the municipal market,
which is not to be missed for its delicious local
fruits and products. However, the main reason to
come here is the area’s magnificent beaches
which are easily accessible from the city centre.
They are popular for sun seekers (especially in
January and February when the area does
become busy) and surfers alike. Many of the
beaches, however, are isolated and therefore
relatively deserted. South of Florianopólis on the
mainland is Praia da Rosa where whale watching
is possible between July and October when
southern right whales breed in the bay.
can organise kayaking and laser dinghy excursions
or you can just relax on the beach, by the pool
or in the spa.
VIDA SOL E MAR,
NEAR FLORIANÓPOLIS
Overlooking the wonderful Praia da Rosa, Vida
Sol e Mar is a laid-back and relaxed family-run
property. It has a number of bungalows of
differing sizes that are dotted across the hillside,
ranging from one bedroom apartments to larger
accommodation that would suit families. There is
a small pool and restaurant. A short walk away is
the soft golden sand of the beach which is
famous for its surfers. Surfing lessons can be
arranged from the hotel, as can whale-watching
trips and packages.
PONTA DOS GANCHOS,
FLORIANÓPOLIS
NEAR
Ponta dos Ganchos, is one of Brazil’s most
luxurious and sophisticated boutique hotels. Its
25 bungalows are the epitome of elegance and
comfort and offer guests privacy for total
relaxation. The homemade meals blend
traditional Brazilian ingredients with international
haute cuisine and may be accompanied by a
selection of wines from an extensive cellar.
For those looking for some adventure, the hotel
Walkway from the beach, Ponta dos Ganchos
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Beach, Ilha de Boipeba
Beaches of the Bahian Coast
The Bahian Coast, stretching from north of
Salvador to beyond Porto Seguro in the south,
has a number of excellent beach options for
every taste and budget. Bahia’s long, palmfringed beaches are often isolated and so ideal
for those looking for an escape and some
relaxation, but being largely backed by jungle,
there are also plenty of opportunities for
excursions and activities.
Tivoli Praia do Forte Eco Resort
TIVOLI PRAIA DO FORTE
ECO RESORT, PRAIA DO FORTE
Tivoli Praia do Forte Eco Resort, about an
hour and a half up the coast from Salvador,
caters for couples and families and has all you
need to relax and recharge your batteries
either at the beginning or the end of your trip.
The spacious grounds are the perfect place to
escape and are complimented by an excellent
spa and swimming pool overlooking the Atlantic.
A good base to visit some of the ruined Dutch
fortresses nearby, the resort also caters for
those with a bit more energy with tennis courts
and a water sports centre. The village of Praia
do Forte is a 20 minute walk along the beach,
and is home to a turtle sanctuary. Turtles are
bred here for release, and the project aims to
protect and educate in order to preserve
these rare creatures.
66
POUSADA SANTA CLARA,
ILHA DE BOIPEBA
Ilha de Boipeba is a remote and idyllic island,
an undiscovered paradise next to the better
known Morro de São Paulo, and can be found
around four hours from Salvador by ferry and
car or 30 minutes by small plane. There are no
roads on the island, only a sandy path for
tractors, and dozens of alluring and often
deserted beaches. Pousada Santa Clara is set a
little way back from the beach and tucked away
in the fringes of the Atlantic forest that covers
most of the island. Cobbled paths weaving
amongst tropical vegetation lead to the 11
simple rooms, each individually decorated and
equipped with fans and mosquito nets. The
pousada’s restaurant serves a truly excellent
range of typical Bahian cuisine using, where
possible, locally produced ingredients.
Moorea Master Bungalow, Kiaroa Luxury Resort
KIAROA LUXURY RESORT,
MARAÚ PENINSULA
The Kiaroa Luxury Resort is a beautiful hotel
located on the stunning Maraú Peninsula, a 30
minute flight in a small plane from Salvador.
Its 28 rooms and bungalows are tastefully
decorated with the work of local artisans and
some boast private pools. There is an impressive
spa with a wide range of treatments available for
complete relaxation. In front of the property the
golden sand beach is virtually deserted apart
from other hotel guests, adding to the hotel’s
feeling of glorious seclusion. There is a wide
range of activities and excursions that can be
arranged locally with the reception staff, ranging
from buggy tours to boating trips.
Txai Resort
VILLAS DE TRANCOSO,
NEAR TRANCOSO
TXAI RESORT, ITACARÉ
Txai Resort is located between the fishing village
of Itacaré and the city of Ilhéus, home to one of
Brazil’s literary greats, Jorge Amado. The hotel
faces a long stretch of golden sand and many
of its apartments and bungalows overlook the
palm-fringed sea beyond. With their large
windows and terraces, the rooms have a
spacious airy feel, with simple and tasteful
decoration featuring earthen tones and local
artwork. The hotel has two restaurants serving a
range of Bahian delicacies such as shrimp and fish
dishes stewed in coconut milk. Guests can enjoy
time at the hotel’s fabulous spa which offers
wonderful views of the ocean, aromatic baths,
a sauna, steam room and of course extensive
massage services. One of the best things about
the hotel is that, despite having 40 rooms, it has
managed to maintain the feel of a small boutique
property. Rooms and communal areas are
tucked away between the palm trees, no
building is more than two storeys tall and you’ll
often have the beach to yourself.
Pousada Etnia
Trancoso
Located just south of the historic town of Porto
Seguro, this sleepy village is rapidly becoming
one of the most sought-after beach destinations
in Brazil. The original fishing village still exists,
and life there is centred on the main grassy
square, with its whitewashed 17th century
church, which claims to have held the first mass
in Brazil. Stretching away from the village are
miles of wonderful beaches.
Villas de Trancoso has just five villas, made
from locally-sourced Brazilian woods, all of
which have their own veranda and seating area
and are furnished with local artwork and fabrics
which complement the beautiful linen bedding.
The villas are perched next to a gorgeous
golden palm-lined beach and there is a beach
bar on hand for refreshments whilst the village
of Trancoso is within walking distance. Guests
can enjoy an excellent range of Brazilian and
international dishes in the hotel’s restaurant or
if they choose, under the stars on the beach
or by the pool.
POUSADA ETNIA, TRANCOSO
Pousada Etnia is a truly delightful place to stay.
The eight rooms are individually decorated and
have been created by an Italian fashion designer.
There is a beautiful swimming pool, and the
whole place exudes understated sophistication.
Although it isn’t a beach front property, the sea
is only a five minute walk away, as is the main
square. Its gardens have a tropical feel and give
the property a sense of seclusion despite its
central location.
Itacaré beach
Main square, Trancoso
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Street dancers, Salvador
Salvador
Brazil’s oldest city, the capital of the state of Bahia,
and formerly the capital of Brazil itself, is certainly
one of the most beautiful and interesting in the
country. Influences from Portugal, Africa and Brazil
are all evident and seem to collide here in a
fascinating cultural melting pot. The legacy of the
Portuguese is present in the cobbled streets of
the historic Pelourinho district, lined with its
pastel-hued colonial buildings. However, it is the
African influence that really makes a visit to
Salvador unique. The enduring and vibrant culture,
food and religion of the African slave era are still
evident, from the graceful art form of capoeira,
the part-dance, part-martial art once used by the
slaves as a form of rebellion, to the pulsing music,
dance and colourful costumes of the Candomblé
religion, a fusion of Catholicism and African
indigenous rituals.
By day, you can enjoy its cultural heritage by
strolling past ornate churches and candy-coloured
mansions, through doorways piled high with folk
art, local sculptures and musical instruments and
across tranquil courtyards covered in flowers.
Afterwards, as the sun sets, enjoy a delicious meal
of one of the spicy specialities of Bahian cuisine,
take in a theatre performance or simply pull up a
stool in one of the bars and watch the vibrant
nightlife unfold.
CASA DO AMARELINDO,
SALVADOR
Superbly located in the historic centre of
Salvador, this charming hotel occupies a fully
restored 19th century building. Furnished to high
specifications and lovingly run, there are just ten
rooms, with decoration inspired by the Bahian
colonial culture with a touch of African influence.
Boasting a small swimming pool and rooftop bar
with breathtaking views over the Bay of Todos os
Santos, wonderful ‘home style’ cooking using local
ingredients and a bar stocked with local cachaças,
you are well placed to relax and enjoy the
experience that is Salvador.
Capoeira on the streets, Salvador
CONVENTO
SALVADOR
DO
CARMO,
This charmingly restored 16th century convent
combines character with five star facilities such
as a swimming pool, butler service and spa.
Certain features of the convent have been
immaculately preserved such as the Sacristy
where guests can marvel at the opulent golden
ornamentation. The hotel has 90 beautifully
decorated and well-equipped rooms and suites. If
you do not feel like sampling some of the
delicious food at the local restaurants in the
Pelourinho district, then it has its own fine
restaurant and bar.
Casa do Amarelindo, Salvador
68
Rooftops, Olinda
Street vendor, Salvador
Olinda
Recife and Olinda
Chapada Diamantina
Lençóis and Chapada
Diamantina
The small and pretty town of Lençóis is a 45
minute flight or a seven hour road journey from
Salvador. It is the gateway into the stunning
scenery of Chapada Diamantina National Park,
a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The town of
Lençois has its roots in mining, and whilst time
and the weather have faded its colonial legacy, it
is a lovely place from which to explore the park.
This national park is an area of flat-topped
mountains and forested valleys dotted with
beautiful waterfalls and hidden caves, such as
Poço Encantado, where the midday sun shines
through a natural window, turning the water a
magical electric blue. A stay here will leave
memories of spectacular vistas, orchids and
hummingbirds, iridescent underground lakes and
refreshing dips in clear, crisp waters.
Recife is the place to fly into for stays in the
neighbouring town of Olinda, and the wonderful
beaches to the south. Modern and busy with a
small colonial centre, Recife itself holds little of
real interest to the visitor, but perched on a
hilltop overlooking the city is the colonial gem of
Olinda. Here time has stood still and cobbled
streets are home to magnificent Baroque
churches and convents, pastel-coloured houses,
mansions and ornate fountains. Dotted with shady
plazas and swaying palm trees, and steeped in
history, it is not a surprise that bohemian Olinda
has been given UNESCO World Heritage status.
For a beach stay after some time exploring here,
the coast south of Recife and Olinda is delightful
and has a number of lovely pousadas.
Typical road, Pernambuco state
Self-drive in
Northeastern Brazil
Recife is the perfect starting point for
some self-drive exploration along the
coast of the Pernambuco state, heading
south to Bahia and Salvador. The roads
in this area are mostly surfaced and
routes well signed but a sense of
adventure is always recommended!
Self-drive offers the opportunity to get
off the beaten track and visit the
communities and beaches along this
beautiful stretch of coast. Further south
is the delightful colonial town of Penedo
with is bustling markets and interesting
architecture. The route is lined with
pleasant accommodation options
including Pousada Praiagogi near
Maragogi beach.
Olinda
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Lençóis Maranhenses National Park
São Luís and around
In the far north of the country, São Luís is the
only city in Brazil to be founded by the French,
whose influence is apparent in some of its older
buildings. Many of them are crumbling but some
properties, bought with foreign money or rescued
by UNESCO, are shining examples of the
beautiful architecture of the period, lovingly
restored and proudly lining the centre’s cobbled
streets. Walking along, you can’t help but notice
the array of stunning ceramic tiles which clad
many of their walls, one of these buildings’
most striking features. The centre has a lively feel
(it is Brazil’s reggae capital) with small markets,
restaurants, museums and artisan shops around
each corner. The city is built on a 50 kilometrelong island, separated from the mainland by a
series of channels which you will see during the
plane journey in.
Lençóis Maranhenses
National Park & Jericoacoara
São Luís makes an excellent starting place to
begin a trip to the stunning Lençóis Maranhenses
National Park and beyond. This area of
astounding natural beauty is becoming an
increasingly popular destination for visitors to
Brazil, but its infrastructure is very
underdeveloped. The park is famous for its
incredible 40 metre high sand dunes, stretching
50 kilometres inland from the coast, and 70
kilometres along it. Rains fall between January and
June, filling the spaces between the dunes with
pools and lakes of crystal clear fresh water which
in the sun later in the year, shine magnificent
shades of blue, green and turquoise, contrasting
beautifully against the white, desert-like sands.
The pools are at their best between July and
September when they also become home to a
surprising amount of fish whose eggs have been
carried from the sea by visiting birds.
Travelling east from this area eventually brings
you to the beach village of Jericoacoara, famous
for its vast sand dunes and its magnificent sunsets.
Its windswept beaches also make it an excellent
spot for windsurfing and kitesurfing. There are a
number of small pousadas in the village and our
favourites include Pousada Naquela, Vila Kalango
and Mosquito Blue.
Pousada Naquela, Jericoacoara
70
Natal and around
On 25th December 1599, a small village was
founded one mile away from the Portuguese-built
Fortress of Three Wise Kings; the village was
named Natal (the Portuguese word for
Christmas). Today the city enjoys one of the best
climates in the whole of Brazil. Year round it is a
sunny city – ideal for sunbathing, dune-surfing or
sampling the local cuisine. It has a couple of good
accommodation options on its impressive
coastline as well as lots of restaurants.
Natal is an excellent base to explore the main
attraction of this area – the beaches and sand
dunes which act as a massive adventure
playground. The most famous beach is Genipabu,
whose shifting dunes are criss-crossed with the
tracks of the ubiquitous beach buggies that you
can take for a windy and exhilarating ride.
The region south of Natal is well worth exploring
by road. Travelling in this manner allows you to
visit the Atlantic rainforest and the inland area of
Cariri, where you can stay on a ranch amongst
lakes and granite hills. Continuing along the
beautiful coastline provides opportunities to see
deserted beaches and dolphins playing in the
many sandy coves en route. There are
sophisticated resorts and simple pousadas
scattered between the coastal fishing villages.
Colonial houses, São Luis
Coastline, near Natal
Natal architecture
Sunset, Genipabu sand dunes
Fernando de Noronha
Brasília
The small archipelago of Fernando de Noronha is
a delight for naturalists and divers and can be
reached by air from either Recife or Natal. Lying
350 kilometres off the coast of mainland Brazil,
this is a protected national marine park that offers
some of the best beaches and diving in the
country. Diving and snorkelling around the islands
can reveal a dazzling array of marine life. Turtles,
sharks, stingrays, dolphins and multi-coloured
tropical fish abound whilst on land birdwatchers
will be enchanted by the variety of species
including several types of pelican and the redfooted booby. Flights to the islands are expensive
as is most accommodation but we can offer
simple good value homestays. Visitor numbers are
strictly limited in order to preserve its pristine and
unexploited environment.
Brasília rose from the unpopulated plains of
central Brazil in the shape of a soaring bird or
plane, and took the title of capital city from Rio
in 1960. Designed and built in under five years,
Brasília is a late 1950s vision of the future in
concrete, a testament to retro-Brazilian
architecture, in particular to the genius of Oscar
Niemeyer. Sights like the Metropolitan Cathedral
with its radiant stained glass interior, so designed
because the architect believed dark interiors to be
too redolent of sin, and the Square of Three
Powers with its Congress, Judicial and Presidential
buildings, are well worth a visit. Whether you
end up loving or hating it, the city makes for a
fascinating 24 hour stopover.
Beach, Fernando de Noronha
POUSADA MARAVILHA,
FERNANDO DE NORONHA
Pousada Maravilha offers peaceful surroundings
and great attention to detail. With a reputation as
the best place to stay in the archipelago, this is a
wonderful place to while away the time on this
beautiful island. It has a fabulous infinity pool, from
which the breathtaking view can be enjoyed.
There is also a gym and spa.
Pousada Maravilha, Fernando de Noronha
Metropolitan Cathedral, Brasília
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Capybara, Pantanal
The Pantanal
For wildlife viewing, there are few better places in
the world than the Pantanal between April and
September. The animals and birds here are similar
to those found in the nearby Amazon basin, but
they are much easier to spot due to the lack of
dense jungle. The Pantanal is an enormous area
of seasonally flooded savannah lowlands and
wetlands, which creates a fertile environment of
lakes, streams and pond. Hyacinths and giant
water lilies rest on the lake surfaces, whilst
beneath the surface anacondas lurk amongst the
fish that are darting away from the feet of jabiru
storks. Capybara and caiman sun themselves on
the banks, and howler and capuchin monkeys
chatter and swing from tree to tree, past the
toucans, macaws and parrots as they fan their
iridescent feathers. Other animals to which this
vast area is home include anteater, armadillo,
otter, marmoset and even jaguar and puma.
Local children, Pantanal
72
POUSADA RIO MUTUM,
PANTANAL
Pousada Rio Mutum, Pantanal
Your stay here will be based in one of the
fazenda-style lodges which have excellent guides
to accompany you on the various excursions
including day and evening jeep safaris, canoe trips
and horse riding.
FAZENDA BARRANCO ALTO,
PANTANAL
Fazenda Barranco Alto is tucked away in the
southern area of the Pantanal. The fazenda’s land
contains more than 100 lakes, over 400 different
birds and all sorts of mammals, as well as
untouched vegetation. For decades the fazenda
has been a cattle ranch, and still is, however now
it also welcomes guests. Family-run, it has just
four rooms and therefore offers an exclusive
experience with plenty of wildlife spotting
opportunities. All the activities of the farm are
based on sustainable principles. Hyacinth macaw
are seen daily, as well as trogon, jacamar, toucan,
raptor and numerous other species.
Pousada Rio Mutum is located in the state of
Mato Grosso in the northern Pantanal. It consists
of 16 simple air-conditioned apartments, each
with hot water and a hammock on the veranda.
The grounds are grassy and dotted with a variety
of local trees which are a haven for birds and
animals including macaw, paraqueet and Brazilian
porcupine. The Mutum river flows steadily about
100 metres from the lodge but during the wet
season it rises almost to the edge of the grounds.
Chapada dos Guimarães
Chapada dos Guimarães is a stunning national
park, popular with Brazilian visitors and growing
in popularity with international travellers too as
the reputation of the northern Pantanal grows.
The Chapada is about 800 metres higher than the
enormous, flat plains of the Pantanal so it enjoys
cooler temperatures which gives rise to different
flora and fauna. It is made up of stunning tabletop mountains, ravines, caves, streams and
waterfalls and is a haven for walkers and nature
lovers, especially birdwatchers. Chapada dos
Guimarães is very easily combined with a stay in
the northern Pantanal and provides a totally
contrasting experience to the Pantanal’s wetlands.
Cowboy at Fazenda Barranco Alto, Pantanal
Jabiru stork
Pale-faced saki monkey
Meeting of the Waters, near Manaus
Manaus
fascinating experience, you are unlikely to see the
wealth of animal life which can be spotted in
other parts of the Amazon. However, it is still
highly enjoyable to spend days walking with
biologist guides and taking boat trips along the
peaceful rivers. For those with a real interest in
seeing wildlife, we recommend visiting the
Amazon regions of Ecuador or Peru.
From whichever direction your plane approaches
Manaus, you will watch in awe as you pass over
the enormous expanse of green wilderness
before reaching your destination. This steamy
port in the middle of the Amazon rainforest is a
product of the 19th century rubber boom, but
today is the commercial hub of the entire
Amazon region. The most incongruous site is
perhaps the city’s opera house, a grand,
marble-halled, chandelier-bedecked building that
still puts on fine shows in the heart of the
Amazon. The hectic port area is an atmospheric
blur of sailors, passengers and vendors, as goods
and people arrive and depart.
The Brazilian Amazon
The two rivers that are adjacent to Manaus, the
Solimões and Negro (Black) rivers, merge to form
what we know as the mighty Amazon River,
which even here, 1,600 kilometres from the
Atlantic, is ten kilometres wide. Their meeting,
however, is a little unusual; the yellow waters of
the Solimões run alongside the waters of the
Negro for six kilometres before converging.
The rainforest’s immense network of waterways
and lakes is home to an abundance of plant and
animal species, with many more yet undiscovered.
The area’s sheer size means that whilst a stay
here in one of the lodges or boats will be a
AMAZON ECO PARK,
MANAUS
NEAR
The Amazon Eco Park is located 30 minutes by
boat from Manaus, on the banks of the Taruma
River. The lodge comprises 60 comfortable but
simple rooms, with private bathrooms (with hot
water showers), fans and air-conditioning. There
is a large open air restaurant serving regional
cuisine, a private beach and natural pools.
Excursions include boat trips, treks through the
jungle, caiman spotting at night by torch light,
piranha fishing and visits to local village tribes.
Accommodation is simple but it’s a great, good
value introduction to the Amazon.
Solimões River. It is made up of channels, lakes
and seasonally flooded forest. The trails are
designed not to be physically demanding and may
be walked in one to three hours at the longest.
During the flood season (May to July) all
excursions are done in a small paddle canoe.
AMAZON CRUISES
Several boats depart the docks at Manaus for
interesting trips along the Amazon and her many
tributaries. Ranging in length from a couple of
nights cruising in the local area, to seven nights
venturing further afield, these cruises are an
easy-paced way to see the Amazon. The Clipper
and Tucano cruises are recommended and each
of their boats carry between eight and 20
passengers on relaxed three or seven night
cruises. A more luxury option is offered by the
larger Iberostar cruise.
UAKARI FLOATING LODGE,
TEFÉ
NEAR
Accessed from the town of Tefé, Uakari Floating
Lodge is located inside the Mamiraua Reserve and
concentrates on ecotourism activities. It has ten
simple, comfortable and ample apartments, with
warm solar-powered showers. The reserve is a
state conservation area located around the
Toucan, Amazon
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Brazil 73
BRAZIL
Rio de Janeiro
Ilha Grande
Paraty
Green Coast Uncovered
This short itinerary is ideal for those looking to
enjoy diverse experiences in Brazil without the
need to travel vast distances. Start in Rio where
there is time to explore the must-see sights
before heading west along the Green Coast to
the charming colonial town of Paraty. You’ll have
time at leisure to explore its cobbled streets and
enjoy its churches and artisan shops. End the trip
with a stay on Ilha Grande, with its dozens of
isolated beaches.
Iguaçu Falls
Tailoring your trip
Please call one of our Brazil specialists to start
Telephone: 01993 838 610
Getting around
Being the fifth largest country in the world means
that you can cover a serious number of miles in
any trip to Brazil, even one focused on just a
single region. As an example the flight from São
Paulo to Manaus (in the Amazon) takes four
hours, and the most direct road journey between
São Paulo and Rio takes six hours. The internal
flight network is extensive and generally runs to
timetable. Land crossings into Argentina can be
made via Iguaçu Falls.
When to go
Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
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Brazil can be visited year round. With the
exception of the far south and southeast of the
country which has a cooler period between June
and September, Brazil has a warm tropical
climate. There is a rainy season that affects the
northeast between April and July, and Rio and the
south from October to January. The Pantanal is
best visited in its dry period between April and
September. Carnival takes place annually around
February or early March (dates vary each year).
If you want to include Carnival in your trip, you
should book early (at least six months in advance)
as many hotels enforce minimum stay periods
and fill up quickly.
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Rio de Janeiro.
Day 2
Enjoy a tour of Rio including
Corcovado and Sugar Loaf Mountain.
Day 3
Free time to explore Rio’s beaches,
museums, galleries and shops.
Day 4
Travel by road to the small colonial
town of Paraty.
Day 5
Explore the cobbled streets of Paraty.
Day 6
Travel to Ilha Grande.
Days 7-9
Relax on the beaches of Ilha Grande.
Day 10
Travel by road back to Rio for your
flight home.
Day 11
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
With two to three extra days you could include
Iguaçu Falls, a short flight from Rio. Alternatively,
head east of Rio to the beach resorts of Búzios.
Prices
for your trip to Brazil on our website, alternatively
Rio de Janeiro
74
Local girl, Rio de Janeiro
Olinda
Recife
Manaus
Salvador
BRAZIL
Itacaré
BRAZIL
Salvador
BRAZIL
Rio de Janeiro
Pantanal
Ouro Preto
São Paulo
Tiradentes
Iguaçu
Rio de Janeiro
Iguaçu
Rio de Janeiro
Paraty
São Paulo
São Paulo
Classic Brazil
Wild Brazil
Colonial Brazil
This tour takes you to the country’s best-known
highlights including its famous cities, stunning
waterfalls and beautiful beaches. It is a great option
for those visiting Brazil for the first time.
This is an itinerary that focuses on the incredible
array of ecosystems and wildlife that flourish within
Brazil. From subtropical rainforest and waterfalls to
the Amazon jungle, from wetlands teeming with
wildlife to urban forests and botanical gardens, this
trip is a nature lover’s dream.
This is a perfect trip for those with an interest in
the architecture and culture of Brazil’s colonial
period. The country has wonderful examples from
this period including magnificent churches and
charming homes.
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Free time to explore Rio’s beaches,
museums, galleries and shops.
Fly to Iguaçu where you will be met
and taken to your hotel.
Enjoy guided excursions to both sides
of the impressive waterfalls.
Day 6
Fly to the city of Salvador in the
northeast of Brazil.
Day 7
Explore the city with a local guide.
Day 8
At leisure to explore further, perhaps
visit some of the city’s churches or
museums, head to its beaches or to
a local market.
Day 9
Drive or fly along the coast to end
your trip with some relaxation on
the beach.
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Time to further explore Rio, perhaps
taking a hike in the Tijuca forest.
Day 4
Fly to Iguaçu where you will be met
and taken to your hotel.
Day 5
Enjoy guided excursions to both sides
of the impressive waterfalls.
Day 6
Fly to the Pantanal and transfer to
your lodge.
Days 7-8
Excursions in the Pantanal. These
will include exploring on foot with
your guide, kayaking along the local
rivers, horse riding excursions and
night tours.
Day 9
Days 10-12 Relax on the beach.
Day 13
Fly to São Paulo and then on to
the UK.
Day 14
Arrive in the UK.
Day 10
Travel back to the airport for your
flights to the Amazon. Spend the
night in the port city of Manaus.
Travel by boat to your Amazon
lodge or board your cruise boat.
Afternoon excursions into the jungle.
Day 1
Day 2
Arrive in Rio, and transfer to your
hotel in the historic quarter.
Day 3
A full day’s guided tour of the most
famous sites of the city.
Day 4
Transfer along the Green Coast to
the small colonial town of Paraty.
Day 5
Explore the cobbled streets of Paraty.
Day 6
Travel by road inland into the state
of Minas Gerais to the sleepy town
of Tiradentes.
Day 7
Enjoy a tour of the churches,
museums and shops of Tiradentes.
Day 8
Continue on by road to the
picturesque town of Ouro Preto.
Day 9
Explore the winding streets and
beautiful churches of Ouro Preto.
Day 10
Fly north to Recife, and on to the
colourful town of Olinda.
Day 11
Enjoy a day in Olinda, famous for its
artisan shops.
Day 12
Fly to Salvador, where your hotel is
located in the historic centre.
Day 13
Explore the city with a local guide.
Day 14
Further explorations of the city, or
time to relax by its beaches.
Day 15
Fly to São Paulo and then to the UK.
Day 16
Arrive in the UK.
Days 11-12 Guided excursions into the jungle.
Stay longer
The other obvious highlight of Brazil is the Amazon
rainforest, so a few days’ stay at one of the jungle
lodges can be included within this trip.
Alternatively, extend your time in Salvador and
head inland to the state of Bahia, through the
sugarcane plantations to hidden riverside colonial
towns, table-top mountains and caves and
grottoes. Whilst in Salvador why not have a go at
some Brazilian drumming or visit a local market
with your guide before learning how to cook a
traditional fish stew with a local chef?
Day 13
Return to Manaus and fly to São
Paulo to begin your journey home.
Day 14
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
Extend your time in Rio to visit the Serra dos
Órgãos National Park to walk its trails and discover
its lovely hidden waterfalls. Whilst in the Pantanal
you could head to the Chapada dos Guimarães
to explore its beautiful rock formations and
contrasting wildlife. Alternatively, add some time
relaxing at one of Brazil’s beautiful beaches before
flying home.
Stay longer
To experience French and Dutch-influenced
architecture fly north to the town of São Luís.
For a complete contrast, spend a couple of nights
in the 1960s city of Brasília.
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Brazil 75
Paraguay
D
warfed by its huge neighbours,
Paraguay is off the radar for
many people visiting South America
as it doesn’t have any of the obvious
attractions of the continent. However
it is something of a ‘cult’ destination;
part of its attraction is the very fact
that it is so little visited. Scratch
beneath the surface and there is a
wealth of experiences for the visitor;
a year-round tropical climate, the
vast Chaco area with its unique
Mennonite settlements and plentiful
birdwatching opportunities. On top
of this, there are some of the most
impressive Jesuit ruins in South
America as well as colonial villages,
ranches, cowboys and verdant jungle
teeming with life. Paraguay also
bears the legacy of a fascinating but
tragic history of wars, dictatorships
and isolation – in all, a destination
with a rich and culturally diverse
heritage, ready to be discovered.
Paraguayan cowboy
1 The Chaco
1
The vibrant biodiversity of the
Chaco offers the chance to see
some of South America’s rarest
bird and plant life.
A joint Paraguayan and Brazilian
venture which is the largest
operational hydro-electric plant
in the world.
2 Asunción
A fascinating capital city, and
from here you can take a
wood-fired steam train into
the countryside.
Meet the Mennonites
Travel into the Chaco to meet
Paraguay’s most successful
settlers and see how they live
off the land.
3 Encarnación
Visit the 17th century Jesuit
ruins, some of the finest in
South America.
Real life
Join the locals for a cooling flask
of tereré, a herb-infused drink
enjoyed across the country.
2
4
3
Hummingbird
76
4 Itaipú Dam
Asunción
Audley in Paraguay
Paraguay’s steamy capital and largest city,
Asunción, sitting on the left bank of the Rio
Paraguay, is a city of many contrasts. Shiny
skyscrapers stand behind weather-worn colonial
buildings or glitzy disco bars, and traditionally
dressed women sell tereré from metal flasks
outside the city’s stock exchange. Much of the
city’s architecture dates from the 19th century,
a time when the country was ruled by a string of
charismatic but often brutal dictators, and during
which the Paraguayan national identity was
formed. The city today is somewhat sprawling,
although small by Latin American standards, with
most of the areas of interest within easy walking
distance. Expect tree-lined avenues and parks, a
somewhat bizarre mixture of architectural styles,
and in July and August, the pink blossom of the
lapacho trees. Visit the stunning white Presidential
Palace, catch the changing of the guard at the
Panteón de los Heroes, built in 1863 as an
oratory for the Virgin, now a memorial to the
country’s war dead, and then sip a beer in the
noisy 1950s Lido bar opposite.
Whilst Paraguay is relatively little visited in
comparison to its larger neighbours, our
specialists have the same love and intimate
knowledge of the country as anywhere else
in South America. Our local guides and
drivers offer a rich insight into their culture,
and are delighted to receive visitors from
abroad to show off with pride all that
Paraguay has to offer. Visiting Paraguay is
generally done in combination with a trip to
Brazil, entering the country close to the
immense Iguazú Falls, or with Argentina,
crossing from the state of Misiones with its
vast wetlands. Alternatively, there are direct
flights to Asunción from São Paulo and
Buenos Aires. Paraguay is rarely a destination
visited in its own right, although there is
enough for the intrepid traveller to fill a week
or even two.
Surrounding villages
The villages around Asunción will give you a taste
of small town Paraguay. They include the artisan
town of Itá, traditionally known for its ‘gallinita de
la suerte’; a small clay chicken used as a lucky
charm, Yaguarón with its 18th century Franciscan
church, Caacupé, home to the Patroness of all
Paraguayans, the Virgin of Caacupé, and San
Bernadino on the shores of Lake Ypacarí.
The Chaco
In the north and west of Paraguay, the Chaco,
South America’s largest dry forest, contains an
extraordinary number of plant and bird species
and is a special area of conservation. Its wide
plains, salt flats, swamps and savannahs are home
to thousands of plant and cacti species and
wildlife such as pumas, tapirs, flamingos,
armadillos and jaguars. This biologically rich and
sparsely populated land became the unlikely
home to 20th century Mennonite settlers from
Germany, Russia and Canada, fleeing social and
religious persecution. Renowned for their
disciplined, hard working ethic as well as their
agricultural expertise, the Mennonites established
their own farms, schools and churches in the
Chaco in the 1920s. Today the 28,000-strong
Mennonite community still speak their own old
German dialect, and are the country’s largest
milk producers. One of the ways to best
explore this area is to travel along the rivers
on the M/S Paraguay cruise boat for a truly
unique perspective.
Asunción
Jesuit Missions of Trinidad
and Jesús
Rarely does one find a UNESCO World Heritage
Site with so few visitors, but that’s only part of
the attraction of these impressive Jesuit Missions.
A walk around the atmospheric red-brick hilltop
ruins allows you to absorb a sense of what once
made these 17th and 18th century colonies so
powerful that the Spanish crown had them
abolished. The Jesuit Order came to Paraguay to
christianise and educate the indigenous Guaraní
population. Apart from religious conversion, the
Jesuits encouraged the Guaraní to express
themselves artistically and taught them intricate
wood-carving and musical instrument making skills.
So successful was the Trinidad Mission at its
height that its 4,000 inhabitants were able to live
comfortably off its cattle and yerba maté
plantations. Today remnants of that sophisticated
society are still visible in the stone-carved pulpits,
sculptures and statuary of these remarkably
serene settlements.
Practicalities
Accommodation in Paraguay is somewhat
limited but there are a number of truly
charming options as well as the more simple
properties common outside Asunción.
Paraguayans are warm and hospitable,
ensuring that you will be well received and
made welcome across the country. Getting
around landlocked Paraguay is largely
unproblematic and most roads in Asunción,
as well as the highways leading out of the
city, are paved and well signed. The route
through the Chaco towards the border
with Bolivia in the north of the country,
however, is unpaved and can be impassable
between October and March when the
rains are at their heaviest. We advise
avoiding travel in Paraguay’s hottest summer
months (November to February) when
temperatures frequently reach 40C and
humidity is high.
Find out more
information about travel in Paraguay, please
visit our website.
☎ Discuss your plans with our Paraguay
Jesuit Missions, Encarnación
Paraguay 77
Uruguay
he tiny country of Uruguay lies
sandwiched between its two
giant neighbours, Argentina and
Brazil. A wide range of experiences
await the visitor – savour the
architectural delights and bustling
port market of its capital Montevideo,
head for the white sand beaches and
glittery nightlife of the resort of Punta
del Este, or take a step along the coast
and back in time to the sleepy town
of Colonia del Sacramento which has
a UNESCO-protected colonial heart.
You’ll also find a whole world of
cultural and nature-rich activities in
its interior where the country’s mild
climate and green open spaces offer
the perfect conditions for horse riding,
birdwatching and touring its small
vineyards. Like their Argentine
neighbours, Uruguayans are also a
nation of ‘maté’ drinkers and
visitors will also enjoy discovering
their national wines, cheeses and
excellent steak.
T
Rodeo festival near Montevideo
1 Colonia del Sacramento
Amble around the historic
cobbled streets of this
atmospheric little
smugglers’ town.
2 Montevideo
Visit the bustling Mercado del
Puerto in the renovated
docklands area for some of the
country’s best grilled steaks.
1
4
2
3
Cobbled street in Colonia del Sacramento
78
3 Punta del Este
Join the jet set on the sandy
beaches of South America’s
most glamorous resort.
4 Cabo Polonio
Ride criollo horses across the
sweeping sand dunes.
On the Grapevine
Enjoy a large glass of Tannat,
the ‘Uruguayan Malbec’ on a
visit to one of the vineyards
near Colonia del Sacramento.
Colonia del Sacramento
Audley in Uruguay
Step back in time to the sleepy former smuggling
town of Colonia del Sacramento, founded by
the Portuguese in 1680. Its cobbled streets,
picture-perfect Spanish and Portuguese houses,
quaint art galleries, cafes and leafy parks make it
an atmospheric place for a day trip by ferry from
Buenos Aires or for a couple of nights’ stay.
Lapped on three sides by the brown waters of
the River Plate, its colonial centre, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, has some fascinating
attractions. Among them are the wooden
drawbridge leading to the original city gate, the
Portuguese museum with its maps and
paraphernalia from the time of Colonia’s
occupation and Uruguay’s oldest church, dating
from 1695. The luxury Four Seasons hotel of
Carmelo is one hour’s drive up the road, and is
easily combined with a trip to Colonia.
One of South America’s lesser visited nations,
Uruguay is most frequently combined with
time in Argentina, either in the form of a visit
across the River Plate from Buenos Aires to
Colonia del Sacramento or Montevideo, or
by ending a trip around Argentina with a
beach stay on the Uruguayan coast.
However, for those with an interest in the
outdoors, in particular birds, ranches and
riding plus good food and drink, Uruguay
easily offers enough to fill a week or even
two. Our local drivers and guides provide a
fascinating insight into a country of which
they are immensely proud whilst our own
specialists know and love Uruguay and are
able to offer the most up to date information
and tailor every trip into an adventure.
Montevideo
Montevideo is an intriguing capital city, perched
on the banks of the River Plate. Reminiscent of a
European city in appearance, it lives at a more
relaxed pace than its Argentine neighbour Buenos
Aires. Its historic old town in the centre is a
charming area dotted with plazas, rivers, parks
with bike trails, and some wonderful restaurants.
The city’s historic port area has been spruced up
and its famed market, particularly lively on a
Saturday, has taken place in the same spot since
1868. Full of colour and life, it is a delightful place
for people-watching and exploring its labyrinthine
alleys teeming with stalls, entertainers and buskers.
Here you’ll also taste some of the city’s finest
steak and seafood from a number of excellent
bistros or by grabbing a chivito (Uruguayan special
steak sandwich) from one of the many busy stalls.
Punta del Este and around
Gauchos at Finca Piedra, near Montevideo
Inland in Uruguay
Travelling into the little explored interior will
give a great insight into the real Uruguay, including
its culture of fine wine and cheese. Uruguay’s
wine heritage goes back to the first Spanish and
Italian immigrants who brought the grapevine
here some 250 years ago. Today the ‘Tannat’
grape produces dark, dense red wines, enjoyed
across the country. There are a number of
wineries that also offer charming accommodation
to visitors and are perfect for those looking for
the complete wine experience. One of our
favourites is La Vigna, in the eastern part of the
province of Colonia. For those looking for
something a little more active, Uruguay is an
excellent choice for horse riders, with beautiful
criollo horses and terrain ranging from sand
dunes to marshes, pine forests and palm groves.
For bird lovers, Uruguay offers a wide variety
of ecosystems and the chance to see most of
South America’s temperate bird species, from
hummingbirds to rhea, in a single trip.
A couple of hours’ drive east of Montevideo lies
Punta del Este, Uruguay’s (and possibly South
America’s) most glamorous beach resort. A long
stretch of white sandy beach with glitzy bars,
restaurants and yacht clubs where people go to
see and be seen, the town’s pine-fringed beaches
are split between those at the mouth of the River
Plate and those that are lapped by the Atlantic.
Busiest during the summer months from
December to February, visitors are drawn to
Punta del Este’s exclusive outdoor lifestyle and
cosmopolitan atmosphere. It also makes a great
base from which to head out and explore the
sleepy fishing village of San José and the sand
dunes of Cabo Polonio or a great beach break
at the end of a trip in either Uruguay itself or
Argentina. If you prefer a quieter beach stay then
you might prefer the little town of José Ignacio,
just a twenty minute drive east of Punta del Este.
Practicalities
The best time to travel to Uruguay, and
particularly to its coastal areas, is during its
summer months, between November and
February, but travel is possible all year round.
There are international airports in
Montevideo and Punta del Este making
access to the country quick and easy. The
country’s infrastructure is good and travelling
overland is the best way to explore.
Uruguay’s history of extensive agriculture
is reflected today in the numerous ranches
or estancias which have opened their doors
to visitors seeking a taste of the life of the
Uruguayan cowboy or looking for
somewhere to spend a few days relaxing
in the countryside with home-cooked food
and good wine. Our favourite estancias
are dotted throughout the country, and
include Finca Piedra, El Charabón and
Guardia del Monte. Estancias aren’t the only
option for accommodation in Uruguay, our
specialists have travelled across the country
searching out properties to suit most tastes
and budgets.
Find out more
information about travel in Uruguay, please
visit our website.
☎ Discuss your plans with our Uruguay
Colonia del Sacramento
Uruguay 79
Argentina
ibrant, diverse and intoxicating,
Argentina succeeds in being
quintessentially Latin, surprisingly
cosmopolitan and completely individual –
a truly incomparable place. Contained
within its vast boundaries are a heady array
of landscapes and sights, from windswept
Patagonian steppe to the tumbling waters
of Iguazú Falls, through the snow-capped
V
80
volcanoes and emerald waters of the
Lake District to lush wineries, from
cactus-spiked gorges to penguin-filled shores.
But Argentina has much more to offer than
its natural beauty, it is also a place of its
people: the gauchos working with speed and
skill as they herd their cattle in the pampas,
couples entwined in a heartfelt tango in
the smoky bars of Buenos Aires and the
Welsh-speaking communities of northern
Patagonia. It is the home of world-famous
icons including Che, the heartthrob
revolutionary, Evita the political diva, and
Maradona the controversial footballing hero.
Fiercely proud, patriotic and partisan, the
people of Argentina are equally warm, open
and welcoming, a key part of the appeal of
their vast, beautiful and unique country.
Audley in Argentina
Argentina is a huge and varied country
with an incredible number of visitor
attractions. Our specialists have a detailed
and up-to-date knowledge of the country’s
many regions and the best ways to combine
them, dependent upon the different seasons
and also the logistical factors you will
encounter as you travel from one part to
another. As well as the obvious highlights
such as Buenos Aires, Iguazú Falls and the
Perito Moreno Glacier we have visited, and
like to suggest, areas and places to stay which
are perhaps less well-known. Whatever your
motive for visiting this wonderful country,
whether you wish to learn the tango, sample
the wine, marvel at the glaciers, waterfalls or
mountains, photograph the wildlife, ride with
the gauchos, or a combination of all these
things, we can tailor a trip to ensure that you
leave the country loving it as much as we do.
Argentina is also easily combined with visits
to Chile via one of the many spectacular
Andean routes between the two countries,
or with Brazil via Iguazú Falls.
2
4
3
5
1
6
10
Accommodation
8
7
9
Gauchos
1 Buenos Aires
5 Vineyards around
The cosmopolitan capital of
Argentina is a fascinating place
of culture, cafe society, history
and tango dancing.
Mendoza
The centre of the wine industry
in Argentina and a great place
to test your palate.
2 Iguazú Falls
The impressive waterfalls that
straddle the Argentinian and
Brazilian border are a must-see.
6 Lake District
A beautiful and verdant
region of lakes and hills that
can be easily explored by car,
bike, foot or horseback.
3 Iberá Wetlands
A great place for wildlife
spotting – float on a canoe
with only caiman, capybara and
storks to keep you company.
4 Salta
A city with a traditional colonial
centre, many museums and a
base from which to explore the
dramatic landscapes nearby.
7 Perito Moreno Glacier
One of the few glaciers in the
world that is still advancing, the
huge Perito Moreno is inching
into Lake Argentino. Don some
crampons and go walking on it.
8 Mount Fitzroy
The town of El Chaltén in
the north of Los Glaciares
National Park is the base from
which to explore some
dramatic landscapes, including
the mesmerising granite peak
of Fitzroy.
9 Tierra del Fuego
The ‘Land of Fire’ sits at the
very bottom of the continent,
where the Andes finally crumble
into the sea.
10 Península Valdés
An area of coast with
abundant wildlife including
penguins and sea lions, and
sometimes orcas can be
spotted looking for a meal.
Particular to Argentina is the estancia, or
working ranch, from which you can explore
the surrounding countryside on foot or
horseback, watch the gauchos at work and
get to know your hosts over fine meals
(please see our feature on page 86).
There are many of these estancias dotted
throughout the country, offering a
wonderfully authentic yet comfortable
insight into traditional rural life, and we have
searched out those with the best location
and the friendliest hosts. There are also many
rural retreats, as you would expect from a
country of such vast empty spaces. Argentina
has also been at the forefront of the rise of
boutique properties in South America, and
boasts many wonderful and quirky hotels to
suit all tastes and budgets.
Find out more
information about travel in Argentina, please
see pages 96-97.
your plans with our Argentina
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Argentina 81
La Boca, Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires
The capital of Argentina is one of the world’s
great urban experiences: a place of stylish people
and buildings, wide boulevards and leafy parks,
poignant history, gastronomic delights, tango in
the streets and extravagant arts and architecture.
The city is divided into barrios (neighbourhoods),
each different yet all full of character. The
colourful buildings of the working-class La Boca
contrast with chic and showy Recoleta, best
known for its lavish cemetery. Bohemian San
Telmo turns into a bustling market on Sundays,
ACCOMMODATION
BUENOS AIRES
Local art, Buenos Aires
as throngs of locals and visitors shop for antiques
and tango memorabilia. The trendy boulevards of
Palermo are perfect for people-watching and
boutique shopping, while the gentrified dockland
area of Puerto Madero is full of restaurants and
bars and provides a friendly counterpoint to the
handsome Plaza de Mayo, dominated by the pink
Presidential building. One of the joys of being in
Buenos Aires is to explore these barrios on foot,
pausing frequently to sit in a pavement cafe to sip
an espresso or beer and watch the city flourish
around you. Ultimately, whether your interests
lie in music and theatre, tango lessons and shows,
gastronomy and wine, shopping or simply
immersing yourself in vibrant city life then Buenos
Aires, however long or short your stay is bound
to captivate you. It is truly one of the great cities
of the world.
Buenos Aires rooftops
82
IN
Buenos Aires is at the forefront of the concept
of boutique accommodation in South America,
and so the city has a vast range of character
hotels in renovated historic houses, scattered
across the different barrios, and to suit all budgets.
The city also boasts some of the finest
international hotels in the world, plus many
simple, good value properties with excellent
locations. Our favourites are mentioned below,
separated out into the barrios of the city where
they are located.
DOWNTOWN
ACCOMMODATION
The commercial and business centre of the city,
the downtown area is lively, bustling and is an
ideal central location for ease of visiting the
main attractions. It is here that the best value
accommodation lies, with the Hotel Elevage
and Eurobuilding being the ideal choices for
those who just want somewhere clean and
comfortable and well located. We also like the
Tanguero Hotel, which has themed itself on
the national dance.
The Tango
Women's Bridge, Puerto Madero
Buenos Aires has always been one of the
most enchanting cities of the world,
embodying the spirit of youth, passion and
a zest for life. So it’s no wonder that when
a wave of European immigrants swept into
the region in the late 19th century, their
musical styles began to mix with the existing
cocktail of Hispanic, African and indigenous
influences, creating an exciting new music
form, the tango.
The sound originated in the city’s bars and
brothels, though it soon spread from the
barrios in the early 20th century to the
salons of the upper classes where more
formal dance steps and less racy lyrics were
introduced. This acceptance led to an
explosion in popularity locally as well as on
the other side of the Atlantic in Paris.
Tango became identified with nationalism in
the 1940s however and as President Peron’s
political life became problematic, tango’s
popularity waned. It was only in the 1970s
that tango began to reinvent itself with jazz
and classical influences igniting a nuevo tango.
Not only was it firmly back on the scene but
more popular than ever, particularly the
original milongas (public dances) of the early
20th century.
San Telmo
Tango aficionados will find their passion
reflected throughout the Buenos Aires of
today. Painted murals of dancers in clinches
adorn the historic Mansion Dandi Royal hotel
in San Telmo, and you can learn a few steps
at the attached Tango Academy (group or
private lessons are possible) and practise (with
locals if you are brave) at the regular milongas
that they hold. Alternatively you can visit one
of the many evening shows that include fine
dining whilst being entertained by a live tango
orchestra and breathtaking dancers. Whether
you dance it yourself or simply soak up the
atmosphere, it’s difficult to leave Buenos Aires
without having fallen under the spell of the
tango’s pervasive charm.
Local market, San Telmo
RECOLETA
ACCOMMODATION
The greenest and grandest of all the Buenos
Aires barrios, Recoleta is the most exclusive and
expensive part of the city, but located within
walking distance or a short taxi ride from
downtown. The hotels here are all at the upper
end of the price scale and include the Park Hyatt
Palacio Duhau, which boasts a magnificent central
garden, the good value Sofitel which offers great
service and facilities, the Casa Sur Art Hotel, an
elegant boutique property, and the traditionally
luxurious Alvear Palace, visited by the rich and
famous since the 1930s.
SAN TELMO
AND
MONSERRAT
ACCOMMODATION
A grittier part of the city, San Telmo and
Monserrat are characterised by historic but faded
architecture, and bohemian atmosphere. La
Cayetana in Monserrat is one of our favourite
hotels, offering great value and friendly
accommodation in an old mansion. The nearby
barrio of San Telmo is a place of antique shops,
tango memorabilia, plazas encircled by cafes and
restaurants, and an increasingly gentrified air.
Here you will find the Mansion Dandi Royal, a
hotel dedicated to celebrating the tango by way
of murals, music and the lessons it offers in the
basement academy, and Mansion Vitraux, a stylish
boutique property with wine bar and spa.
PUERTO MADERO
ACCOMMODATION
The renovated port area of the city, Puerto
Madero is now a place of spruced-up red brick
warehouses, eye-catching modern buildings
and long promenades alongside fine restaurants.
A quiet but developing area, here lies the Philippe
Starck-designed Faena, a modern but majestic
warehouse building with a unique interior design
and excellent levels of service. Also here is the
Hotel Madero, a good value option for those
who want to be in this part of the city.
Mansion Vitraux, San Telmo
PALERMO
ACCOMMODATION
Further out of the city lies the vast barrio of
Palermo, which is broken down into mini-barrios
such as Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood.
Over the last few years this area has seen a huge
influx of stylish new hotels, bars, restaurants and
shops, making it a bustling and popular place with
visitors and locals alike. The Legado Mitico is one
of our favourite hotels in all the city; an exclusive
little place of 11 rooms, all themed on great
Argentinians through history, and with a small
courtyard well away from the hustle and bustle
of the city, plus on the top floor there is an open
air Jacuzzi. Other favourites in Palermo include
the Hotel Nuss and, on the very edge of the
barrio, the 248 Finisterra.
Tango mural
www.audleytravel.com/argentina
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Argentina 83
Gaucho drinking traditional maté
Around Buenos Aires
LA ELOISA,
It is worth exploring the leafy suburbs in the
north of Buenos Aires, particularly San Isidro and
Olivos (which is home to an excellent golf
course), both served by the Tren de la Costa
railway, which is popular with the locals. Further
north is Tigre, a small town about 30 kilometres
from Buenos Aires at the mouth of the River
Plate delta, and accessible by a leisurely boat trip.
Heading west or south will bring you into the
great grass and cattle lands of the pampas which
stretch, drum-flat, around the city. It is on this
land that the legendary gauchos do their work on
the estancias (see feature on page 86), here are a
couple of our favourites where you can stay for a
retreat from the city.
Candelaria del Monte
CANDELARIA DEL MONTE,
BUENOS AIRES
NEAR
Candelaria del Monte is a working estancia
offering a range of activities such as horse riding,
birdwatching, and polo matches. The house
itself has many colonial characteristics and the
rooms have some quirky touches. There is a
swimming pool, and vast grounds full of different
kinds of trees. Meals are based around the
traditional Argentine ‘asados’ (barbecues) and
‘pucheros’ (stews) plus tasty Patagonian lamb
and trout. The friendly owners will ensure a
very memorable stay.
Argentina flag
84
NEAR
BUENOS AIRES
Estancia la Eloisa is in the heart of the pampas,
in a region that specialises in producing some of
the best polo ponies in the world. This traditional
estancia is the perfect place to learn to ride, or
to completely relax. The 15 rooms are traditional
and fairly simple while the service is welcoming,
and the food homely and typical of the region.
In the grounds is a nine hole golf course, tennis
courts and a small pool to relax by. For those
with an interest in polo, there are three fields
and a polo school with top quality horses.
Gauchos on an estancia
Iguazú Falls
Córdoba and around
Iguazú Falls
The most dramatic waterfalls in the world tumble
over the cliffs at the border of Argentina and
Brazil. It is said that Argentina provides the show
and Brazil enjoys the view, and certainly the more
panoramic walkways are on the Brazilian side.
However, a visit to the Argentine side is a must
as it is here that you can get up close and
personal with the falls. Nature is showcased at its
fiercest in the foaming cauldron of the Devil’s
Throat, where several falls join together to hurtle
down a sheer drop, a dizzying view is provided
from your catwalk vantage point. The falls also
showcase nature at its most beautiful, as green
jungle and blue sky combine with white water
and rainbows to ensure that your walks along the
twisting paths above and below the falls provide
a photo opportunity at every turn.
ACCOMMODATION
IGUAZÚ FALLS
AT
There are limited hotel options by the waterfalls
themselves, with just two hotels situated within
the national park, one on the Argentine side and
one on the Brazilian side. The luxurious Sheraton
Resort & Spa is on the Argentine side and is
priced according to its privileged location. Outside
of the park and a car journey away from the falls
lie a selection of good hotels ranging in price and
standard, we like the Loi Suites, the Aldea de la
Selva, Puerto Bemberg and the Amerian.
EL COLÍBRI,
In the heart of Argentina, midway between the
Andes and the Atlantic coast, lies the city of
Córdoba, which is surrounded by some
spectacular hilly landscapes. The city itself is one
of the oldest in Argentina, although the majority
of the architecture is now modern. However
there is an interesting tour that takes in the
colonial religious buildings that remain. The
primary reason for visiting this area, however, is
to spend some time at one of the wonderful
estancias that lie out of the city.
LOS POTREROS,
NEAR
NEAR
CÓRDOBA
A colonial-style mansion which combines
traditional materials and state-of-the-art comfort,
the nine rooms, including three suites, all have
different beautifully hand-painted designs. It’s a
great place to enjoy polo, horse riding, trekking
or mountain biking. Nearby you have the
opportunity to play golf, birdwatch and fish, as
well as visit the Jesuit site of Santa Catalina,
which is just ten minutes away by car.
CÓRDOBA
Estancia Los Potreros is a delightful family-owned
farm high in the Cordoban hills, where you have
the unique opportunity to live amongst three
generations of the Anglo-Argentine owners, and
experience rural life on a working cattle ranch.
Because of the house’s remote location, perched
atop the sierras, the views from foot or
horseback are spectacular, and you have over
600 acres of private land to roam around and
explore. There is also an outdoor swimming pool,
and after all that fresh air, you will appreciate the
delicious home-cooked food (all guests take their
meals together) and the comfort of the en suite
bedrooms, which are simple, but individual, as
you would expect from this private home.
Asado, Estancia Los Potreros
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Gauchos at Estancia Los Potreros
Gauchos and estancias
The gaucho
One of the Argentina’s most iconic inhabitants
is the rugged gaucho – the cowboy. Life and
the weather can be harsh in the scarcely
populated wilderness that covers much of the
centre and south of the country, and the job
of herding cattle and sheep and of maintaining
the farmland could only fall to a horseman of
the utmost skill and resilience. Enter the
legendary gaucho, woollen beret low over his
ears against the wind, skin wind- and sun-burnt
to a deep leathery texture and a love of the
outdoors in his blood.
The estancia
The gauchos’ homes are the estancias, large
farming estates that powered the Argentine
economy through its early 20th century
heyday, many of which today combine their
agricultural work with welcoming travellers,
either for relaxation or to witness (or join in)
the cattle rearing, sheep shearing and
horseback herding, or to watch and play polo.
The gauchos and their estancias are an integral
part of the culture of Argentina.
magnificent horsemanship. This is an aspect
of estancia life that has been put to good use
for visitors and allows amazing opportunities
to live that childhood cowboy dream! You
could have a short trot around an estancia
(in a horse-drawn carriage if you don’t fancy
riding yourself), learn to play a game of polo,
or take a horseback trek of many days out
into the wilderness, it is even possible to
traverse the Andes.
The experience
In terms of the accommodation at the
estancias, the differences between them can
be as vast as the distances that separate them.
Many of the properties are ancient family
homes that have only recently opened their
doors to visitors while others have been
We like to recommend estancias that have
some history, be it in the buildings, or in the
anecdotes of the owners, and we particularly
like, wherever possible, to use working
estancias, such as Huechahue and Los
Potreros, where the owners still carry out the
day to day work of running their farm
alongside welcoming guests, providing a truly
authentic experience. You will find our
favourites dotted through the Argentina
pages of this brochure.
The horses
History has seen the gaucho and the estancias
through many incarnations, but whatever role
the gauchos have played they have always had
one thing in common and that is their
Typical estancia, Patagonia
86
purpose-built as country hotels. While the
older estancias give you a great sense of
history their newer counterparts are often
aimed at the more luxurious end of the
market. However all will have sweeping
grounds, horses and gauchos. A visit or a stay
at an estancia, wherever it is in the country,
will most likely be based around three things –
food, including the obligatory ‘asado’
(barbeque) lunch; drink, including the
traditional maté and wine; and horses.
With a lack of beach destinations in Argentina,
estancias also fulfil the role of being a place to
come and relax. Beautifully trimmed gardens
surrounding swimming pools and the ‘make
yourself at home’ approach of many owners
provides a lovely opportunity to take it easy
during your Argentina trip.
Capybara, Iberá wetlands
Jabiru stork, Iberá wetlands
Guira cuckoos, Iberá wetlands
Young caiman, Iberá wetlands
The Iberá Wetlands
& Misiones
ESTANCIA RINCÓN DEL
SOCORRO, IBERÁ WETLANDS
Esteros del Iberá (Iberá wetlands) is a protected
area of wetlands, second only to the Pantanal in
Brazil in size. This network of lagoons and creeks
is best explored by canoe and affords some
wonderful wildlife viewing. Caiman, capybara,
marsh deer, otter, anaconda and over 300 species
of bird all inhabit this peaceful haven that the
Guarani Indians originally named ‘Bright Waters’.
In neighbouring Misiones province, and across the
border from the wetlands in Paraguay lie Jesuit
missions that date back to the 17th and 18th
centuries and have been recovered from the
emerald forest. The most impressive of these are
San Ignacio Miní and Santa Ana. The ruins here
make a logical mid-point stop for those visiting
Iberá and the Iguazú Falls.
Estancia Rincon del Socorro is a large former
cattle ranch that has been made into a nature
reserve. It is a small, refined ecolodge with six
rooms in the main house and three small
bungalows, all with private bathrooms, sitting
room and small kitchenette. The main house has
a communal living room, veranda and terrace
dining area. When not out exploring the
wetlands, guests can make use of the swimming
pool and there is a BBQ area for those famous
Argentine ‘asados’ which are enjoyed with
homemade breads and Argentine wine.
DON ENRIQUE LODGE,
MISIONES PROVINCE
This tiny lodge in the heart of Misiones province
is a true haven for nature lovers and those
seeking peace. It is composed of just four
separate cabins along the Paraiso River, all have
their own decking by the river and each has a
rustic decor that complements the woodland
surroundings. The owners live at the lodge and
provide great hospitality. They can organise
trekking or aquatic activities and there is also a
lookout tower to do some birdwatching.
Rincon del Socorro
POSADA
IBERÁ
DE LA
LAGUNA,
WETLANDS
Posada de la Laguna is situated in the small town
of Carlos Pellegrini, which lies within Esteros del
Iberá. The lodge overlooks a lagoon and is
surrounded by lovely gardens. The bedrooms are
simple but comfortable and the shaded verandahs
offer a cool place to relax. Guests can explore
the area by boat, foot and on horseback.
POSADA AGUAPÉ,
IBERÁ
WETLANDS
Posada Aguapé is located on the shores of the
Iberá Lagoon which allows guests to encounter
the local wildlife within a few metres of their
room. There is a wide range of excursions
venturing further afield for more wildlife spotting.
The owners provide excellent hospitality in their
beautifully decorated lodge which has 12 double
rooms and a swimming pool. The food is
homemade and locally sourced where possible.
San Ignacio Miní
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San Francisco Church, Salta
The Northwest
Up in this far-flung corner of Argentina lie some
great and magnificent swathes of land, which
scenically and culturally have more in common
with Argentina’s Andean neighbours than the
modern, European influenced areas further south.
A variety of landscapes await – a lunar vista north
of the city of Salta, a place of ochre deserts
dotted with cacti, and gorges striped with many
different hues. South of Salta there are green river
valleys and vineyards mixed into the dry foothills
of the Andes. Exploring this area can be as
energetic or relaxed as you would like; you can
base yourself in one place and go out for the day,
or you can move about the countryside on a
road trip, staying at some of the excellent hotels
on the way.
HOTEL
DEL
VIRREY, SALTA
Well located in the centre of Salta and very
close to the main street with its bars and peñas
(traditional venues featuring folkloric dancing), this
is a small and comfortable hotel decorated in a
traditional colonial style with friendly staff and an
intimate atmosphere.
Purmamarca and around
HOUSE OF JASMINES,
NEAR SALTA
The House of Jasmines is located in rolling
farmland close to the city of Salta but feels many
miles away from it all. Luxuriously comfortable
rooms, plus a spa and cosy communal areas and
balcony dining, all mean a pampered stay is
guaranteed. Guests can saddle up and ride into
the surrounding mountains or simply stay in the
grounds to relax.
Salta
Salta, known locally as ‘Salta La Linda’ (Salta the
beautiful), is the starting point for explorations
of the northwest, but is an interesting place in
itself to explore for at least a day or two. It has
an enviable location in the picturesque Lerma
Valley, and has striking architecture, including
some of Argentina’s few colonial buildings. Its
leafy plazas, including the main focalpoint of the
city, the Plaza 9 de Julio, are a great place to
people watch from the cafes.
The journey between Salta and Cafayate
88
LEGADO MITICO, SALTA
Comfortable and interesting accommodation in
a central location, the Legado Mitico has 11 large
rooms, each with classy decoration based on an
Argentine historical figure. All have small balconies,
and the hotel has a delightful central courtyard.
Heading north out of Salta you’ll pass giant cacti,
grazing vicuña, sculpted rocks and mountains
striped red, amber, coffee and ochre until you
reach dazzling salt flats and impossibly tiny
settlements at nearly 4,000 metres above sea
level. Purmamarca, a small village set below the
Hill of Seven Colours, is the base to travel further
north into the awe-inspiring scenery of the
Humahuaca Gorge, visiting quiet oasis villages,
the ruins of a hilltop fortress, exquisite churches
and some of the most important archaeological
sites in the country. The ‘Train to the Clouds’ is
one way of experiencing all of this amazing
scenery in a day, travelling along a railtrack that is
nothing short of an engineering marvel, but its
operation tends to be intermittent. Other options
include travelling by jeep close to the same route,
or making your own way around by hire car. If
you wish to combine Argentina with Chile, we
can organise for you to cross the high puna from
this point into the Chilean Atacama Desert, in a
heady day’s journey by road.
Purmamarca and the Hill of Seven Colours
Cacti in the Humahuaca Gorge
Vineyards near Cafayate
Salt flats, near Purmamarca
EL MANANTIAL
PURMAMARCA
DEL
SILENCIO,
Facing the Hill of Seven Colours is the charming
El Manantial del Silencio, a property simply
decorated in keeping with the building’s white
colonial style, with flagstone flooring, huge rugs
underfoot, and a serene feel. The hotel is set in
its own large gardens, with enormous windows in
the restaurant allowing diners to appreciate the
rural views while tucking into the trademark llama
medallions.
LA COMARCA, PURMAMARCA
Built completely in keeping with the style of the
rest of the town and even reflecting the colours
of the surrounding mountains, La Comarca is a
lovely and relaxing place. The rooms are spacious
and comfortable with traditional furniture.
CABAÑAS DEL COLORADO,
PURMAMARCA
These cabins are almost completely camouflaged
by the red rock that looms behind them. From
the outside they look like simple mud huts but
inside they are very comfortable apartments with
great decor and their own kitchenette. From the
hotel it is only a five minute walk into the little
town of Purmamarca or to the famous Hill of
Seven Colours.
Patios de Cafayate, Cafayate
Cafayate, Molinos and Cachi
South of Salta lies the stunning Calchaquí Valley,
a place of sun dappled vineyards, and the towns
of Cafayate, Molinos and Cachi, all of which have
something to offer the visitor, be it archaeological
museums, adobe churches and, most of all, many
wineries. The foothills of the Andes here, as with
Mendoza, provide fantastic soils for wine
production. There are several vineyards and
wineries that can be toured, and many types of
wine to be tasted. This is an area to explore at
leisure, taking roads which wind through
mountain passes above which condors glide,
or head arrow-straight through the vine-clad hills.
Travel around this area can be done with a guide
and driver, or with your own self-drive vehicle
along the famous Ruta 40 (see the self-drive
feature on page 91).
LA MERCED
DEL
ALTO, CACHI
On the edge of the small town of Cachi, La
Merced del Alto has the air of a traditional
monastery, despite being a purpose built
property. The effect is startlingly good with cool
high-ceilinged rooms and immaculately kept
grounds. There is a great restaurant and bar in
the main building while the grounds are home
to the pool, Jacuzzi and spa.
ESTANCIA COLOMÉ, MOLINOS
Estancia Colomé is a charming property with a
stunning location in the heart of this beautiful part
of Argentina. It is set amid extensive vineyards and
grounds where guests can ride horses, trek, cycle
or just relax with a good glass of wine. The
property has a cosy library and attractive patios
and its nine rooms are tastefully decorated. Within
the grounds is a museum with a collection of art,
plus it is possible to visit the Bodega Colomé.
LA CASA DE LA BODEGA,
CAFAYATE
NEAR
A simple option in this beautiful part of the
country, La Casa de la Bodega offers good
accommodation in eight rooms, most with views
to the vineyards. There is ample communal space,
and your hosts will be delighted to show you
around their vineyards and winery.
PATIOS
DE
CAFAYATE, CAFAYATE
Patios de Cafayate Hotel & Spa enjoys spectacular
views of the Calchaquí Valley vineyards, and is
designed with an emphasis on unique and local
designs which highlight the traditional cultures of
the area. The hotel has extensive gardens and
antique colonial patios, and the 26 guest rooms
are decorated with antique furniture. Guests can
enjoy the hotel’s spa facilities and outdoor pool or
just sit under a tree with a glass of fine wine and
enjoy the wonderful views. An 18 hole golf course
is five minutes away.
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Mount Aconcagua
Mendoza
Where Argentina rears up into the foothills of
the Andes, lively Mendoza is at the heart of the
self-styled ‘land of sunshine and wine’. Spread
across the valley of the river of the same name,
Mendoza is a pleasant city with wide tree-lined
streets, plazas, parks and avenues. The vast
majority of visitors here have come with one
thing in mind: the grape, and its world-renowned
wines. The Mendoza province, while not having
exclusive rights to Argentina’s output, does lay
claim to at least 70% of it, thanks to its ideal
climate and the snowmelt from the Andes. The
sight of the rows of lush green vines against a
backdrop of snow-dusted peaks makes this an
extremely picturesque outing, before you’ve even
begun to sample the wares! There are a large
number of bodegas welcoming visitors with
guided tours, tastings and lunches, and wine buffs
can make day trips out from Mendoza city into
the main areas of Maipu, Tupungato and Lujan de
CLUB TAPIZ,
Autumnal vineyards, near Mendoza
NEAR
MENDOZA
Cuyo or, better still, stay overnight at a winery
and explore from there. If you have time, this
region has other, often overlooked, attractions.
Heading west, you can take the panoramic ‘Alta
Montaña’ route into the Andes to view Mount
Aconcagua, at 6,982 metres, the highest mountain
in the Americas, and the statue of Christ the
Redeemer, who stands at 4,000 metres as a
symbol of friendship between Argentina and Chile.
A road also climbs over the top of the Andes to
Santiago, a breathtaking way of travelling between
the two countries.
Situated amongst vineyards with views to the
Andes, the Cavas Wine Lodge is a luxurious place
to escape to for a few days to enjoy some fine
wine, great food and exemplary service. The 14
rooms are beautifully appointed and it has lovely
rooftop areas to drink wine and watch the sunset.
For those who like to be a bit more energetic
there are a wide range of activities available,
including trekking in the foothills of the Andes.
Lares de Chacras is a colourful villa-style property
that accommodates 25 guests and is located
approximately 15 kilometres outside of the centre
of Mendoza. The house has a very homely feel,
with log fires, wooden furniture and large windows
which look out onto pretty natural surroundings.
90
MENDOZA
CAVAS WINE LODGE,
LARES DE CHACRAS,
NEAR MENDOZA
Bodega La Rural Winery, Maipu, Mendoza
NEAR
Club Tapiz is an elegant retreat, perfect for an
evening's wine tasting in a pleasantly relaxed
atmosphere. Built in 1890 and surrounded by 10
hectares of vineyards this renovated traditional
house has 7 simply furnished but comfortable
rooms. Guests can also enjoy a spa and swimming
pool that enjoy terrific views of the Andes.
Vineyards near Mendoza
Patagonian road, near El Chaltén
Self-drive in Argentina
As it is the eighth largest country in the world,
exploring all of Argentina’s vast swathes of
land by car is not an option for most visitors,
but there are wonderful pockets of the
country that make for excellent self-drive tours
for those who like to be independent, and
have an adventurous spirit. It is not for the
faint-hearted however, and experience is
essential; many roads are gravel, sign posts are
not especially common and local drivers are
not known for their adherence to the rules of
the road. A lot of the driving is on or around
Argentina’s famous Ruta 40 (Route 40), a road
that travels more or less the length of the
country, and it was along stretches of this
route that a young Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara
travelled by motorbike, his diaries reveal that
much of what he saw along the route fired
his revolutionary spirit.
Lake District road
Northwest Argentina
The northwest of the country offers perhaps
the most dramatic experience for the selfdriver. There is a logical route running south
from Salta, the first part of which takes you
through an ever-changing landscape to Cachi.
Along the way you’ll pass through sheer-sided
valleys, open farmland, small pockets of jungle
and ochre desert, whilst condors circle
effortlessly on the thermals above the white
adobe houses of the small villages you pass.
From Cachi you follow Ruta 40, into the wine
region that surrounds Cafayate. On the edge
of the desert you will find the wineries that
produce some of the country’s most
interesting wines. Not far from here is
Quilmes, the location of some stunning Jesuit
ruins and home to the nation’s favourite beer.
Patagonia
Nestling in the heart of Argentina’s Lake
District is a lovely journey that links the small
town of San Martín de los Andes to its bigger
neighbour, Bariloche. The trip is known as the
‘Route of the Seven Lakes’, and apart from the
lakes, it also winds through picturesque,
forested hills. Continuing south from Bariloche
it is possible to pick up Ruta 40 to travel into
the heart of Welsh Patagonia and the towns
of Trevelín and Esquel. Here you will find the
Patagonian Express steam train that has been
running through the region for nearly a
century. For the really adventurous it is
possible to drive deeper into the vast
Patagonian wilderness by following Ruta 40
south to El Calafate and on until it can go no
further – at the world’s most southerly city of
Ushuaia the road stops at the Beagle Channel.
Península Valdés
This bulbous lump of featureless Patagonian
desert jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean is
home to some of the most spectacular wildlife
viewing opportunities in South America, from
Magellanic penguins and elephant seals to the
majestic southern right whales. As a self-drive
destination the freedom that a car offers could
be invaluable - there is only one road around
the peninsula making it impossible to get lost
and travelling at your own pace allows you
spend all day on one beach waiting for that
magical moment when an orca might surf up
the beach and grab a sea lion.
Typical Patagonian road
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Lake District scenery
Lake District
Bariloche
On the northern edge of Patagonia, Argentina’s
Lake District is a beautiful area of glacial lakes,
emerald forests and extinct snow-capped
volcanoes. Often compared to the picture-perfect
scenery of Switzerland because of its clean, crisp
air, abundance of flowers and glittering waters,
this region nonetheless has a very distinct flavour
that is all its own. There are three areas of the
Lake District that are most often visited:
Bariloche, San Martín de los Andes and, between
the two, the chic resort of Villa La Angostura.
Bariloche is the main centre of the southern
Lake District and an ideal base from which to
explore the abundance of pristine national parks
throughout this area. The town has an Alpine feel
(in the winter it becomes a popular ski resort)
and a wide range of accommodation options,
meaning it has many more visitors than its smaller
northern neighbour, San Martín de los Andes.
In Bariloche you can take a chairlift ride to soak
up panoramic views of lakes and volcanoes
stretching as far as the eye can see, go hiking and
picnicking along woodland trails, raft in the local
rivers, or explore at your own pace with a hire
car. Another breathtakingly scenic route across
the Chilean border starts in Bariloche: the Lake
Crossing takes you by road and a succession of
lake ferries to the town of Puerto Varas.
PEUMA HUE,
NEAR
BARILOCHE
Built on the shores of Lake Gutierrez, and set
inside the idyllic landscapes of Nahuel Huapi
National Park, Hostería Peuma Hue is a unique
accommodation option just outside Bariloche.
Its grounds include three kilometres of lakeshore
at the foot of a steep mountain, with pristine
forests, streams and waterfalls, and many acres
of valley and forest for wandering at leisure.
The accommodation itself is a charming personal
blend of rusticity and comfort with the four
wooden buildings containing 12 guest rooms.
Peuma Hue, near Bariloche
92
Nahuel Huapi Lake, Bariloche
LOS JUNCOS,
NEAR
BARILOCHE
A hidden treasure located 20 kilometres from
Bariloche and overlooking some of the most
beautiful scenery in the region, Los Juncos is a
wonderfully informal place to stay where you will
immediately be made to feel at home by the
hosts. With just five rooms it has a relaxed and
friendly atmosphere.
HOTEL ALDEBARÁN,
BARILOCHE
NEAR
Located on the San Pedro Peninsula, 23 kilometres
from the town of Bariloche, the Aldebarán is
surrounded by lush scenery. The property has ten
well-appointed rooms overlooking the Nahuel
Huapi Lake. The restaurant is highly
recommended, and has a wood-fired mud oven
used for preparing gourmet dishes, and traditional
Argentine barbeques are also offered. There is a
spa equipped with hydro-massage, massage room
and sauna, plus health and beauty treatments.
Sea lions, Península Valdés
Magellanic penguins, Punta Tombo
Villa La Angostura
EL CASCO,
Southern right whale, off Península Valdés
NEAR
BARILOCHE
11 kilometres from Bariloche, Hotel El Casco has
33 rooms with spectacular views across Nahuel
Huapi Lake. The rooms are all well equipped and
each boasts beautiful pieces of art by prestigious
Argentinian artists, the gardens of the hotel also
have displays of over 40 sculptures. The health
club has an excellent range of facilities including
a fantastic outdoor/indoor swimming pool and
the restaurant offers elaborate cuisine designed
by a top Argentinian chef.
LAS BALSAS, VILLA LA
ANGOSTURA
Las Balsas Gourmet Hotel & Spa is an exclusive
retreat on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi that
is designed to give its guests the ultimate in
pampered comfort and peace. In the winter
months (June to August) the hotel is a great
base for ski trips in the surrounding area.
LA ESCONDIDA, VILLA LA
ANGUSTURA
Luxurious yet relaxed and informal, La Escondida
has a crisp modern design in both the building
and decoration. Located on the shores of Lake
Nahuel Huapi, the property is ideally placed for
excursions into the surrounding countryside, or
for simply relaxing and enjoying the view.
San Martín de los Andes
Península Valdés and around
This is great horse riding country and there are
several trails ranging from a day to a week or
more that are highly recommended for
experienced horse-riders. The area also has some
lovely estancias, including Estancia Huechahue
(see below), from where you can ride into the
spectacular Lanín National Park, and Tipiliuke
Lodge, a great place for riding and fly-fishing. In
the town itself we like Casa Eugenia, a good value
option with a simple charm.
This wild and treeless tag of land, loosely linked
to the mainland and reaching out into the South
Atlantic, is a UNESCO-protected nature reserve
that is home to a large variety of wildlife. Whales,
penguins and elephant seals make up part of the
profusion of marine life, whilst guanacos, rheas
and armadillos roam around on the land.
Southern right whales can be spotted during their
breeding season of June to November, orca may
be spotted from November to April, and August
to October is the best time to observe the
elephant seals. There are estancias where you can
stay on the isthmus itself, or base yourself in the
town of Puerto Madryn, which in 1865 was the
site of the first Welsh landing in the area. Their
legacy remains today: Welsh-speakers, tearooms
and Eisteddfods add a distinctive cultural flavour
to the region. Another attraction is the noisy
colony of Magellanic penguins at Punta Tombo.
ESTANCIA HUECHAHUE, NEAR
SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES
About 70 kilometres east of San Martín de los
Andes lies the working estancia of Huechahue.
Explore the beautiful scenery on horseback, riding
through vast expanses of meadow to the base of
the Andes and watch condors and eagles soaring
over ancient Indian burial caves where primitive
drawings can still be seen on the walls. You can
join the gauchos working the cattle and enjoy a
traditional barbecue lunch, the asado, or spend a
sunny day rafting down the river, stopping for
lunch and a swim in a calm pool or try fishing
for the famed wild trout.
Wild flowers near Bariloche
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Perito Moreno Glacier, El Calafate
Perito Moreno and
Los Glaciares National Park
The magnificent centrepiece of Los Glaciares
National Park is the creaking hulk of ice that is
the Perito Moreno Glacier. Its age-old turquoise
folds and white peaks have advanced into Lago
Argentino, pausing for now in a frontage that is
five kilometres across and 60 metres high. From
an observation platform or a boat a safe distance
away, listen for an eerie creak which indicates a
large chunk of ice is about to calve off and crash
noisily into the milky waters of Lago Argentino,
where it then drifts idly away. For a different
view, we can arrange trekking on the glacier
itself where the crunchy meringue-like ice is
punctuated by glowing sapphire crevasses.
Other glaciers worth a visit are those of Upsala
and Onelli, visited on a day trip out by boat to
the northwestern end of Lago Argentino. Your
base for excursions in this area of the park will
be around the glacier itself, or in and around
the thriving town of El Calafate.
Patagonia Rebelde, El Calafate
94
EL
PATAGONIA REBELDE,
CALAFATE
Built in the style of an old railway station, and
resembling a museum more than a hotel,
Patagonia Rebelde is a unique property offering
value and charm. Its eight small rooms are located
on the second floor, as the first floor is given
over to the lounge and bar. This is an unusual
and quirky property that sheds light on the history
of this area of Patagonia.
EOLO,
NEAR
EL CALAFATE
Located 30 kilometres from El Calafate on a hill
rising above the Anita Valley is the Eolo Lodge,
perched on 3,000 hectares of its own land. The
lodge affords beautiful views across Lago
Argentino and on a clear day, as far as Chile’s
Eolo, near El Calafate
famous Torres del Paine. Based on the style of a
traditional Patagonian estancia with a modern
twist, Eolo’s 17 rooms are comfortable and stylish,
whilst its communal living areas are ideal places to
enjoy the talks about the local flora and fauna or
just to curl up with a book and relax.
LOS NOTROS, PERITO MORENO
GLACIER
Los Notros has a privileged location opposite
the dramatic Perito Moreno Glacier. Named after
a flower that grows locally, Los Notros has 32
rooms, many of which have views over the lake
to the glacier. They are decorated with antique
furniture and pictures, and so have a rustic feel.
The terrace is a wonderful location to relax with
a drink and admire the lake and glacier view.
Perito Moreno Glacier
Mount Fitzroy
Lighthouse, Ushuaia
Lupins, Ushuaia
El Chaltén & Fitzroy
Ushuaia & Tierra del Fuego
El Chaltén is a small village at the northern tip of
Los Glaciares National Park that acts as a base
for the climbing and hiking visitors to the Fitzroy
Massif. It has a relaxed and friendly feel, with an
interesting mix of architectural styles and a
fabulous setting. The surrounding area is
challenging but rewarding trekking country, with
the 3,400 metre Mount Fitzroy as its jagged
centrepiece, a stark and soaring piece of granite.
For accommodation options we like the cosy,
good value Hosteria El Puma, or for something
a little more luxurious, Los Cerros.
The Andes finally slide into the sea at the
bottom of the archipelago at the very tip of
South America. The name of the biggest island
is Tierra del Fuego, ‘Land of Fire’, which
conjures up images of frothing waves, howling
gales and isolation, and whilst this is not
entirely the case, the area certainly has a windy
end-of-the-world feel.
Ushuaia
The heart of the island is the lively city of Ushuaia,
whose colourful houses spill down from the sides
of imposing snowy mountains before stopping
abruptly at the shores of the icy Beagle Channel.
Ushuaia is the base for exploring the region’s
attractions such as Lapataia National Park, the
‘Train to the End of the World’ in Tierra del
Fuego National Park, trips out with the seabirds
on the Beagle Channel, and also a visit to the
historic Estancia Harberton which was built by a
British missionary on one of the farthest
outposts of the continent. There is a range of
accommodation options in and around the city,
catering to a variety of tastes and budgets.
Cruising from Ushuaia
Ushuaia is the embarkation and
disembarkation point for many curious
and intrepid travellers. The Cruceros
Australis cruise operation (see page 110)
takes its guests on a winding route
around the bays and inlets of this
dramatic area of glaciers and wildlife.
For more adventure, Ushuaia is also
the starting point for trips down to the
‘White Continent’ of Antarctica
(see pages 120-122).
Walking near Mount Fitzroy
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São Paulo
Iguazú
Buenos
Aires
Bariloche
Perito Moreno
Glacier
El Calafate
Classic Argentina
A trip that takes in the varied sights and icons for
which Argentina is famous – from gauchos to
glaciers, and wine to waterfalls. Begin in vibrant
Buenos Aires and from there fly down into
deepest Patagonia to marvel at glaciers before
coming back northwards via the gentle picturepostcard scenery of the Lake District to the wineproducing area around Mendoza.
Iguazú Falls
Tailoring your trip
Please call one of our Argentina specialists to
Telephone: 01993 838 630
Getting around
Due to its vastness, comprehensive itineraries
around Argentina will involve several internal
flights, but our specialists will ensure that the
idiosyncrasies of the airline schedules are taken
into account. Buenos Aires still acts as a hub
for many domestic flights, so what looks a
straightforward journey can be longer than one
would expect. Travel by road between different
destinations is only an option in certain places
(such as the northwest and southern Patagonia),
due entirely to the huge distances that need to
be covered.
96
When to go
Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓
✓
✓
✓
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Argentina.
Day 2
Arrive in Buenos Aires, afternoon at
leisure to explore.
Day 3
A morning city tour, including Eva
Peron’s tomb in the Recoleta
cemetery and the La Boca district.
Day 4
At leisure in Buenos Aires – maybe
take a tango lesson?
Day 5
Fly to El Calafate in southern
Patagonia.
Day 6
A trip to visit the mighty Perito
Moreno Glacier including a trek on
the ice itself (age restrictions apply).
Day 7
Free time in El Calafate.
Day 8
Fly to Bariloche in the heart of the
Argentinian Lake District.
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓✓ ✓✓
~
✕
Most of Argentina has seasons that are the
opposite of the northern hemisphere’s, but as
you would expect in a country of this size, distinct
regions have climates all of their own. Therefore
the best time of year to travel will depend largely
on the areas you wish to visit, for example
Patagonia’s peak travel season is from October
to April, although travel outside of this time is
possible if you wrap up warm. The northern
areas of Iguazú, the wetlands and Salta are
lovely all year round.
Prices
for your trip to Argentina on our website,
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
your plans.
Days 9-10 Explore the beautiful region by car,
horseback or foot, depending on
your preference.
Day 11
Fly to Iguazú, via Buenos Aires.
Day 12
Explorations of these magnificent
waterfalls.
Day 13
Fly to São Paulo in Brazil to connect
Day 14
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
If you enjoy fine wine and good scenery then
Mendoza can be added to this trip. Indulge
yourself with some exploring around the
vineyards and of course some wine tasting.
Alternatively head for one of Brazil's southern
beaches for a couple of days of relaxing.
Salta
Cachi
BRAZIL
Rio de Janeiro
Cafayate
PARAGUAY
Valparaiso
Mendoza
Iguazú
Santiago
ARGENTINA
Buenos Aires
ARGENTINA
ARGENTINA
Buenos Aires
URUGUAY
Buenos Aires
Cities and Waterfalls
This short trip shows you the vibrant sights of
two of Latin America’s greatest cities, with the
bonus of a visit to the thundering Iguazú Falls in
between. Experience the wine, steak and tango of
Argentina’s capital before moving to the waterfalls,
then end your trip in Brazil’s exciting Rio de
Janeiro, visiting the statue of Christ the Redeemer
and relaxing on its golden beaches.
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Buenos Aires.
Day 2
Arrive in Buenos Aires, and transfer
to your hotel.
Day 3
Explore the city’s diverse
neighbourhoods, dine out in Palermo
and enjoy some tango in La Boca.
Coast to Coast from
Chile to Argentina
Northwest Argentina
Explored
Starting in the quirky port town of Valparaíso
on the Pacific and ending in the vibrant capital
of Buenos Aires on the Atlantic, this trip takes
you on an incredible journey across the Andes
via the heart of the wine-producing areas of
both countries.
A lesser-visited area of Argentina, the northwest
region is a fascinating mix of desert scenery,
colonial architecture, Andean culture and some of
the highest altitude wineries in the world. This trip
explores by road, either on a guided trip, or as an
independent self-drive. Finish by spending some
time in the unmissable city of Buenos Aires.
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Chile.
Day 2
Arrive in Santiago, transfer to
Valparaíso. Afternoon at leisure.
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Day 6
Day 7
Day 4
Return to Santiago, and an afternoon
tour of the city.
More time to get to know Buenos
Aires. It’s a cultural city with a wealth
of museums and galleries.
Day 5
A full day’s journey across the Andes
to Mendoza in Argentina, past South
America’s highest peak, Aconcagua.
Transfer to the airport for your flight
to Iguazú.
Day 6
A full day’s exploration of the local
vineyards, including lunch and tastings.
Day 7
Free time in and around Mendoza.
Day 8
Fly to Argentina’s magnificent capital
of Buenos Aires.
Day 9
A full day tour of the city.
Day 10
At leisure to further explore the
barrios of Buenos Aires.
Day 11
Begin your journey home.
Day 12
Arrive in the UK.
Time exploring the mighty waterfalls.
Fly to the exciting city of Rio
de Janeiro.
Day 8
Enjoy a guided tour of Rio.
Day 9
More time to explore Rio’s beaches,
its galleries and museums and try
some of its great restaurants.
Day 10
Day 11
Explore the historic and bohemian
port town.
Transfer to the airport for your
flight home.
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Argentina.
Day 2
Arrive in Argentina and connect with
a flight to Salta. Afternoon at leisure.
Day 3
A tour of the city of Salta, known
in Argentina as ‘Salta La Linda’
(Salta the Beautiful’).
Day 4
Travel by road or train through
stunning Andean scenery to the town
of Purmamarca.
Day 5
Visit the Humahuaca gorge and
return by road to Salta.
Day 6
Head southwest of Salta by road,
through scenery that ranges from
deep valleys, jungle and open desert
savannah, to the tiny town of Cachi.
Day 7
Continue along the famous Ruta
40 road into the northern reaches
of the wine-producing area
around Cafayate.
Day 8
A leisurely road trip back to Salta.
Day 9
Fly to Argentina’s magnificent capital
of Buenos Aires.
Day 10
A full day tour of the city, and an
evening tango show.
Day 11
Day 12
Arrive in the UK.
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
Stay longer
Take a more active approach to your trip with
tango lessons in Buenos Aires or head out to one
of the country's famous estancias close to the
capital. In Rio, explore the city with your guide by
bike or climb to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain
to take in the views. Extend your trip with some
beach time in Brazil by exploring the nearby
Green Coast.
It is easy to add the stunning waterfalls of Iguazú
to this itinerary by flying there at the end of your
time in Buenos Aires. A couple of days can be
spent exploring the waterfalls, set amongst lush
tropical rainforest.
Stay longer
If you have an interest in wildlife, then a day’s
drive east from the dramatic scenery of the
northwest of the country takes you to the Iberá
wetlands, where you can stay in a charming
estancia or posada and explore the creeks and
lagoons in search of wildlife such as caimen,
capybara and anacondas.
Lago Argentino
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Los Glaciares National Park, near El Chaltén, Argentina
Patagonia
The word ‘Patagonia’ conjures up images of
isolated, windswept lands that have intrigued
and inspired explorers, pioneers, writers and
travellers for centuries.
Geography
Patagonia accounts for around a third of the
landmass of Chile and Argentina. Stretching
across both countries, this vast cone of territory
is the funnel through which the last vestiges of
the continent taper to its tip, and to the ends
of the earth. Appropriate, then, that this region
encompasses some of the globe’s most
dramatic landscapes. Beginning with the
relatively gentle scenery of the Lake District,
where snow-capped volcanoes overlook
crystal-clear waters, and ending with icy fjords,
granite peaks and creaking glaciers, Patagonia
covers over 400,000 square kilometres.
Landscapes vary significantly between Chile and
Argentina; whereas northerly Chilean Patagonia
is densely forested and, receiving a large amount
of rainfall, feels green and wild, Argentine
Patagonia comprises plains of barren semi-arid
steppe. This area is in fact a cold winter desert;
protected as it is by the ‘rainshadow’ effect of
the Andean mountain range. Nearer to the very
south of the continent both sides become more
jagged and desolate. Vast swathes of these
Patagonian landscapes have been given national
park status, and UNESCO has declared two
areas to be World Heritage sites: Los Glaciares
National Park and the Valdés Peninsula, both
on the Argentinian side.
People and history
Legend has it that Patagonia’s name came from
Ferdinand Magellan, the Portuguese explorer
who landed on the shores of Patagonia in 1520.
Reported to have been astonished by the height
of the tribes people he encountered, he named
the Tehuelche ‘Patagons’, using the word ‘pata’,
meaning feet, to label these ‘giants’. It is believed
the Tehuelche people were one of a number of
indigenous tribes that had inhabited the region
since 9000 BC. Descendants of another tribe,
the Mapuche, still live in Chilean Patagonia today.
Up until the late 1800s, before the construction
of the Panama Canal, southern Chile and
Guanaco, Torres del Paine, Chile
98
Argentina were important stopping-off points
for ships navigating around the continent of
South America. Thus the social history of this
‘land’s end’ outpost is a rich tapestry of traders,
mariners, explorers and conquistadors, with its
very remoteness attracting dreamers and
fugitives. Patagonia has inspired many a literary
figure too, from the scientific analyses of
Darwin’s crew in the 1830s and Lady Florence
Dixie’s ‘Across Patagonia’ in 1880 to more
recent travelogues such as Bruce Chatwin’s
‘In Patagonia’ and Paul Theroux’s ‘The Old
Patagonian Express’.
Today, Patagonia has a population of around
two million (a meagre number considering its
size), much of this population still reflects the
colonising influence of the European explorers,
and includes significant settlements of Welsh
and German inhabitants, among others. As well
as the flourishing travel industry, principal
economic activities in Patagonia include oil,
mining and agriculture, sheep farming and the
resulting wool production.
Wildlife
Despite the harsh emptiness of much of the
Patagonian landscape, most visitors will spot
several hardy species of animal and bird. On
land one of the most frequent sights is the
pretty guanaco, the wild cousin of the llama,
often visible stepping daintily through the spiky
growth of its native habitat. The guanaco is
hunted by the puma, Patagonia’s stealthy big cat
that only the luckiest visitor will see, as these
solitary predators tend to be nocturnal. The
rhea – South America’s largest bird – is regularly
seen roaming the grasslands. Flightless but
nimble runners, they are sometimes called South
American ostriches, and protect themselves by
living in groups. Gliding high above them, the
Andean condor is also a record-breaker. The
world’s largest bird of prey rules the Patagonian
skies, using the finger-like feathers at the tips of
its huge wings to adjust its flight path according
to the thermals on which it soars. Offshore,
the waters around Peninsula Valdés are home
to a host of marine mammals. From June to
December, southern right whales congregate in
substantial numbers; around a quarter of the
world’s population is thought to be based here
at this time. Magellanic penguins and elephant
seals are regular residents, and orca appear in
their midst from November through to April.
Audley in Patagonia
A visit to Patagonia, the epitome of ‘the great
and vast outdoors’, is all about exploring the
natural world, and all trips will do so, whether
on foot, horseback, by boat, or by road.
However you wish to explore we will use our
first-hand knowledge and experience of
Patagonia to create the ideal trip, whether you
wish to do it in relaxing comfort and style, or
energetically and adventurously, or a
combination of both. There are lots of lodges
and hotels scattered throughout the region,
some in the towns such as Bariloche and El
Calafate (Argentina) and Puerto Varas and
Puerto Natales (Chile), but many are out in the
wilderness. They range from simple properties
with basic facilities to boutique hotels, from
working farms to sheer luxury, meaning there is
something for everyone, whatever your budget.
You can base yourself in one property and take
trips out and about from there, or undertake a
more touring style of trip, although the distances
involved often make this quite an arduous and
expensive way of exploring.
Pacific Ocean
Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
San Rafael
Glacier
Perito
Moreno
Glacier
Which part of Patagonia you head to will
depend on how you wish to explore. Those
who want to do some trekking (be it for a day
or for a week) are best to go to Torres del
Paine in Chile or to El Chaltén in Argentina, for
serious horse riders then the estancias in
northern Patagonia around San Martín de los
Andes (Argentina) are excellent. For those who
wish to indulge in a spot of fly-fishing then it is
best to base yourselves in the Lake District
region of either Chile or Argentina. Wildlife
aficionados should head for Peninsula Valdés in
Argentina. For those who want to just see some
of the highlights of the region, and don’t wish to
be too active then Torres del Paine and the
0
200 miles
0
322 kilometres
Perito Moreno glacier (Argentina) offer some
breathtaking natural sights, and a range of
comfortable hotels. Boat travel around the fjords
and glaciers of Chilean Patagonia, and at the
very tip of the continent around Tierra del
Fuego allow gentle contemplation of the
scenery, and ski trips to Bariloche or San Martín
de los Andes in the winter months (our
hemisphere’s summer) provide adrenalin if you
wish. Finally the open road could beckon, setting
off in a hire car along Chile’s Carretera Austral
(Southern highway) or Argentina’s Ruta 40
allows exploration at your own pace. However
you choose to explore, you can be sure of the
wind, the beauty and the spirit of Patagonia.
www.audleytravel.com/patagonia
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Argentina 99
Chile
hilean legend has it that when God
had finished creating earth, he walked
back across the heavens and a little of
everything that was left; mountains, deserts,
lakes, glaciers, volcanoes and valleys, trickled
out through a hole in his pocket, and thus
Chile was born. So, this implausibly long,
thin ribbon of land unfurls down the Pacific
coast of South America and compresses an
C
100
extraordinarily diverse range of terrain
between its Andean spine on one side, and
the ocean to the other. Sweeping from the
world’s highest and driest desert down
through rolling vineyards, past snow-dusted
volcanoes, narrow fjords and turquoise lakes
up to sharp granite peaks towering above
blue icebergs, this slender slice of land is also
bursting with culture and charm. Chileans
are proud and friendly, fiercely protective
of their traditions, and more than happy to
enjoy a glass of the fiery national cocktail,
pisco sour, with visitors. Add to all this the
mysterious statues of Easter Island,
marooned five hours’ flight away out in
the Pacific Ocean, and you have every
imaginable ingredient for a wealth of
sights and experiences.
Audley in Chile
Moai, Easter Island
1 Atacama Desert
A stunning moonscape
wilderness of volcanoes, salt
lakes, multi-coloured lagoons,
hot springs and geysers.
1
2 Stargazing, Elqui Valley
An area with incredibly clear
night skies, with several
international observatories
that can be visited.
3 Easter Island
A tiny speck in the vast Pacific
Ocean, a remote and mystical
place, famous for the brooding
stone statues that litter the
volcanic landscape.
2
4 Vineyards and wineries
The Colchagua Valley is the
ideal place to start to learn
about (and taste) some of the
best wine in Chile.
3
4
5 Lake District
A pretty region of the bluest
waters, white-tipped volcanoes,
waterfalls and ancient forests,
perfect for gentle hiking, bike
riding, fishing or just relaxing.
5
6 Aisén
A beautiful and lush region
with very few visitors, great for
enjoying outdoor activities and
stunning scenery.
6
7 Torres del Paine
Chile’s most beautiful
national park, a magnificent
place of towering granite
peaks, turquoise lakes, condors
and guanacos.
8 Isla Navarino
A small island located off the
southernmost tip of the South
American continent, for the
ultimate in peace and quiet.
7
8
Adventure cruising
As befits a country with such
a long and varied coastline,
being on a boat can provide
some wonderful sights and
experiences.
The sheer size and diversity of Chile means
it is something of a feat to cover all elements
in one trip. Our specialist knowledge ensures
that whatever your preference for sights and
activities, we will strike the right balance for
you to see as much as possible without
spending too much time on the road or in
the air. Due to the length of their shared
border, Chile lends itself perfectly to a
combined trip with Argentina. We can advise
you about the many options for crossing
from one to the other via the desert in the
north, Santiago, the Lake District or
Patagonia, all are remarkably beautiful
journeys. As well as knowing the classic
highlights of Chile in considerable depth, we
pride ourselves on our knowledge of lesserknown regions and places to stay, and are
more than happy to discuss specialist
interests such as golf, wine, astronomy and
skiing. Private excursions throughout a trip
can prove to be rather expensive due to the
size and remoteness of the country, so we
can make use of small group tours to keep
costs down if required.
Accommodation
Hotels in Chile are as interestingly varied as
the country’s distinct regions, and we always
try to seek out character properties that
reflect this. The country is home to the
unique and outstanding Explora hotels, of
which there are now three, and the Explora’s
concept of high quality accommodation
married to explorations of the surrounding
landscape has inspired a plethora of similar
properties, all of which are striving for the
highest standards. Therefore Chile has some
beautiful and unique hotels dotted
throughout the country. There are also many
equally charming, more simple properties,
offering good value for money and high
standards of service.
Find out more
information about travel in Chile, please see
pages 114-115.
your plans with our Chile
☎ Discuss
Chile 101
Santiago
Santiago
THE AUBREY, SANTIAGO
Snow-covered Andean peaks provide Santiago’s
spectacular backdrop, but today they compete
for dominance on the skyline with sparkling
skyscrapers. The capital of Chile is a modern
metropolis, but a charming one with many
landscaped parks and peaceful hilltop sanctuaries
offering calm amid the chaos. Wander the historic,
civic heart of the downtown area and you’ll come
across fine museums and churches, the impressive
18th century government palace and the beautiful
baroque cathedral. The modern and fast-paced
commercial centre of Providencia is where you’ll
find most of Santiago’s glitzy shops, restaurants
and hotels. There is also the arty Bellavista district,
from where the cable car ascends to the summit
of San Cristóbal Hill, affording fantastic views
over the city to the Andes.
ACCOMMODATION
IN
The first luxury boutique hotel in Santiago, the
Aubrey is situated at the foot of the San Cristóbal
Hill within the Parque Metropolitano, one of the
six largest urban parks in the world. Three years
of careful restoration and renovation have
transformed a historic house into a modern
luxury boutique hotel with 15 rooms, all with
their own character, and most with balconies or
terraces. The outdoor patio terraces overlook
exotic landscaped gardens, and there is a heated
outdoor swimming pool.
Skiing
During our summer months of June to
September, the ski resorts nestling in the
Andes (but handily within easy reach of
Santiago) offer the largest number of
runs in the southern hemisphere, Valle
Nevado and Portillo being the most
renowned. The spectacular views and
superb standard of snow make Chile an
increasingly popular destination for ski
afficionados seeking action out of the
northern hemisphere season. We can
arrange stays in the resort hotels for any
duration, complete with equipment hire
(skis or snowboards) and lessons if
required. It is also possible to have a
day trip to the slopes from Santiago if
time is short.
SANTIAGO
Unlike its neighbour’s capital city of Buenos Aires,
the concept of boutique hotels has not fully
caught on in Santiago. Good value yet characterful
properties are not in abundance, instead what
Santiago has to offer is a large number of high
standard international chain hotels. For those
seeking something more personal at a reasonable
price we recommend the Hotel Orly, the
Meridiano Sur and La Rêve, all of which are
situated in the residential and commercial
district of Providencia.
Virgin Mary on San Cristóbal Hill
102
Meridiano Sur, Santiago
Valparaíso
La Serena
Elqui Valley
Valparaíso, Viña del Mar
and Zapallar
La Serena and the Elqui Valley
When you have explored the city of Santiago,
you could head to the coast for a day, travelling
through orchards and olive plantations to the
fascinating seaside town of Valparaíso and its
fancier neighbour of Viña del Mar.
Tumbling precariously down dozens of hills to the
port, Valparaíso is a maze of colourful buildings,
boulevards and viewpoints, best explored using
its ancient funicular railways and ‘elevators’. Here
you can visit one of the homes of Chilean Nobel
prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda, who was
inspired by the town’s melting-pot charm and
eccentricity. If you wish to stay overnight there
are a couple of characterful properties, Casa
Higueras and Hotel Zero. Viña del Mar, by
contrast, is a genteel and fashionable resort that
has been the weekend retreat of rich Santiago
folk for generations.
La Serena is a cheerful place, a mix of chic
seafront and artistic old town, surrounded by a
mystical and remote area of stunning scenery that
climbs east into the Andes. Famed for having the
clearest skies in the southern hemisphere, this
blissfully tranquil area houses a large number of
observatories, and attracts spiritualists as well as
astronomers due to its reputedly unusual
magnetic quality. Observatory visits can be
arranged for those with an interest in the night
skies. Tiny and impossibly picturesque villages –
Montegrande, Vicuña, Pisco Elqui – dot the
valley’s cultivated slopes and it is in these that
Nobel prize winner Gabriela Mistral lived and
taught. This is also the heart of pisco grape
growing country and a trip here wouldn’t be
complete without a distillery visit and tasting.
Star gazing
The north of Chile is renowned for its
exceptionally clear night skies, and
these atmospheric conditions, along
with a lack of light pollution and high
altitude, mean that the country is a
world leader in astronomy. The scientific
observation of the universe is
undertaken in several internationallyfunded observatories around La Serena
and further north in the Atacama
Desert. There is currently further
investment scheduled including the
arrival of the world’s largest telescope,
and the biggest ground-based
astronomical project in the world,
ALMA (Atacama Large Millimeter
Array), which will be open to visitors.
The starry skies in Chile can be
explored by professionals and amateurs
alike, as several of the observatories
are open for tours. Typically over 300
nights a year are suitable for stargazing
and sky photography, so visitors to
observatories such as La Silla, El Tololo,
El Pangue and Cerro Mamalluca should
be able to enjoy unlocking the secrets
of the universe!
About two hours further north is the attractive
and chic resort town of Zapallar. Set on a curved
sandy bay and backed by lush forests this is a
perfect place for a couple of relaxing nights.
Zapallar
www.audleytravel.com/chile
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Chile 103
Traditional winery, Colchagua Valley
Wine Regions of
Central Chile
Surrounding Santiago to the north, south and
west lie some of the New World’s finest
vineyards. The most visited areas lie to the south
of the city where the beautiful Maipo and
Colchagua Valleys take most of the glory. These
valleys can be visited either as a day trip from the
capital or in more depth if you opt to stay at one
or more of the wineries. Either option allows you
the opportunity to explore either with a private
guide or with your own car. This is a wonderful
place to relax with stunning views through the
green valleys up into the Andes.
CASA SILVA, COLCHAGUA VALLEY
The Casa Silva vineyard has a wonderful house
dating back to the late 19th century and oozing
with character. Along with the fine rooms
decorated with traditional furniture you’ll find
peaceful courtyards, a swimming pool and
decorative fountains as well as a fantastic in-house
restaurant and bar. In addition there is a rodeo
and polo field, with stables housing up to fifty
horses at any one time, offering you the chance
to either relax or take part in a little activity if the
mood strikes you.
CASA LAPOSTOLLE,
COLCHAGUA VALLEY
old fashioned reading rooms or have a game on
the full sized snooker table in the old smoking
room, or simply unwind on the terrace which
is dominated by a beautiful 150 year old
bougainvillea.
VIÑA MATETIC, ROSARIO VALLEY
Nestled in the Rosario Valley between Santiago
and Valparaíso and on the border of the more
famous Casablanca Valley, Viña Matetic was once
thought to be in the worst possible spot for wine
production. How wrong those predictions were as
their wines have become regular winners of major
awards. The lodge offers fantastic service and a
great mix of tradition and modern convenience.
Undoubtedly one of the best hotels in Chile, this
tiny property on the Clos Apalta vineyard consists
of just four private cabins on the steep hills of the
Colchagua Valley. Each is incredibly spacious with
an open fire and balconies overlooking the vines.
As a perfect romantic getaway there are few
places with such spectacular views accompanied
by such great wine.
CASA REAL, COLCHAGUA VALLEY
Vintage car, Colchagua Valley
104
Built around 1880 this old mansion was the
showpiece home of the owners of the Santa Rita
Estate and little expense was spared in creating a
luxurious dwelling with manicured gardens and
even their own family chapel. The house is now
used as a small hotel with 16 spacious and stately
bedrooms. You can also relax in the wonderfully
Wine cellar
Owner's cellar, Casa Lapostolle
Chilean wine
On the land where the Andes meet the Pacific
in a series of steep-sided valleys that flow
down to ancient river beds and glacial paths,
some of the best wines in the world are
produced. Historically this region of Chile has
been the fruit bowl of the country, but over
the last couple of decades there has been a
significant increase in money invested in what
is now a flourishing wine industry. Chile has
now become established in the top ten wine
producers, by volume, in the world and many
(professionals and amateurs alike) would put
them in the top five for quality. It has not been
an easy road to reach this status however. In
the 1980s the quality was low and the climate
and soil dismissed as too poor to produce high
grade wines. But today, Chile is considered the
perfect environment for a wide range of wine
production; this is no longer a country that
just produces a cheap merlot.
These days Chile grows a wide variety of
grapes, mostly red, from chocolaty carmeneres
to robust cabernet sauvignons and wonderfully
rounded merlots. In the Colchagua Valley you
will find some of the best accommodation in
the region such as the stunning Casa Lapostolle
(on the Clos Apalta estate) and Casa Real
(on the Santa Rita estate). For any wine lover
this area is an essential part of a trip to Chile,
complement, and the region west of Santiago
specialises in this. In the rolling hills that work
their way down from the mountains to the
old port town of Valparaíso you will find the
Casablanca and San Antonio Valleys, home to
Viña Matetic. It is from here that the sauvignon
blancs and an increasing number of
chardonnays are produced. The environment
here is a perfect blend of fresh sea air and
mineral-rich soil left behind by millennia of
seismic activity in the region.
Whether you are something of a connoisseur
looking to learn more about wine production
or you simply appreciate great wine alongside
lovely scenery and peaceful accommodation,
then a few hours or days in this area will be
time well spent. We can arrange trips that
best suit your level of interest.
Grapes, Colchagua Valley
but if you are a serious connoisseur then you
must get off the beaten track a little. Travelling
south from Colchagua you will find the Curico
and Maule valleys and further south still you
reach Itata and Bio Bio regions where many
of the new wines that are on our shelves
originate. Here you will find Casa Porta and
their pinot noirs, and organic blends.
However Chilean wine is not all about the
reds. With fish featuring heavily in many
Chilean diets, white wines are a natural
Colchagua Valley vineyard
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Chile 105
Atacama Desert
The Far North
Atacama Desert
The far north of Chile shares not only a border
with Peru and Bolivia but also a common history
derived from the pre-Conquest cultures of the
region. The startling barren landscape holds a rich
archaeological heritage – here you can discover
immense geoglyphs, ancient cave art and excellent
museums in and around the coastal towns of
Arica and Iquique. To the east, this arid landscape,
in shades of brown and gold, gives way to the
foothills of the Andes and rises up to become
part of the vast altiplano. Here panoramas of
snow-topped volcanoes, herds of vicuña grazing
amongst flowers and brightly coloured lakes await.
Lauca National Park is visually stunning, and is
en route for travellers who are taking the road
from La Paz in Bolivia to Chile, via the equally
sublime Sajama National Park.
Eerie, austere, remote yet beautiful, never more
so than at sunrise and sunset when the surfaces
and the skies turn all manner of improbable hues
of orange, crimson and gold, Chile’s Atacama
Desert is so dry that there are many parts of it
in which no rainfall has ever been recorded.
This is an unlikely landscape to have a variety of
attractions, yet the Atacama is a must-see for
visitors to Chile, and the oasis town of San Pedro,
at its heart, has some of the most original hotels
in all of South America.
Cycling past Licancabur Volcano
106
the Valley of the Moon to watch the sun set,
turning them scarlet as it goes. This desert is an
active person’s paradise, offering unique terrain
through which to hike, cycle or horse ride, but it
is also entirely accessible to those wishing to
investigate it by vehicle, with the excellent hotel
options offering total relaxation after an aweinspiring day’s exploration.
After flying into Calama, a mining town with
Chuquicamata, the largest open cast mine in the
world in the hills behind it, travel by road through
rolling swathes of parched lunar landscape to the
welcoming town of San Pedro de Atacama, the
base for explorations into the desert. From here
you will join small guided groups, usually
organised via your hotel, to marvel at the
Atacama’s natural spectacles, and to discover
archaeological sites; ancient mummies, geoglyphs,
and crumbling ghost towns. Rise before dawn to
drink your morning coffee at the world’s highest
geothermal field, and watch the steam from your
cup rise along with the spurting fumaroles of the
Tatio geysers. Pick your way across the crunchy
salt flats to spot the pink flamingos, photograph
the vivid colours of the Miscanti and Meñique
Lagoons, and climb the sweeping sand dunes of
Spotty llama, Atacama Desert
Vicuña, Atacama Desert
Church, San Pedro de Atacama
DE
Flamingos in front of Licancabur Volcano
ALTO ATACAMA, NEAR
SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA
ALTIPLANICO, SAN PEDRO
ATACAMA
Fifteen minutes walk from the centre of San
Pedro lies a group of 16 adobe houses created
out of local wood, mud, straw and stone, the
typical building materials of the altiplano. This is
the Altiplanico, which has real character and
individuality and offers great value. Each of the
houses are simply decorated, there is a lovely
outdoor swimming pool and a relaxed café
and bar.
EXPLORA EN ATACAMA, SAN
PEDRO DE ATACAMA
The original pioneer of the concept of
exclusive excursions combined with luxurious
accommodation in San Pedro, the Explora en
Atacama is the younger sister of the Patagonia
property (see page 112). The hotel has awardwinning modern architecture, and its 50 guest
rooms are large and well-furnished, and all have
Jacuzzis. There are broad terraces for relaxing,
plus a sculptured pool area, all with fine views
over the nearby volcanoes. The property also
has its own observatory with a powerful
telescope for star gazing.
The location of the Alto Atacama, in a valley
surrounded by deep red mountains, gives the
hotel a real feeling of serenity and remoteness,
despite being just three kilometres from San Pedro
de Atacama. As well as a luxurious spa and natural
thermal pools, six small swimming pools are
nestled in the landscaped gardens. The 32 rooms
are warm and stylish, and the hotel also has its
own observatory within the extensive grounds.
Tierra Atacama, San Pedro de Atacama
DE
TIERRA ATACAMA, SAN PEDRO
ATACAMA
All of the 32 spacious rooms at the Tierra
Atacama have private terraces and mountain
views, some facing the mighty Licancabur Volcano.
The communal dining rooms and terraces are
warmed by fire pits and the cosy living rooms
are the perfect place to spend the evening.
Meanwhile, the spa is luxurious and offers a full
range of treatments.
AWASI, SAN PEDRO
DE
OTHER
ACCOMMODATION
OPTIONS IN
SAN PEDRO
ATACAMA
DE
Other than the Altiplanico, options for those
looking for properties that are not at the luxury
end of the spectrum include the Aldea, Hosteria
San Pedro de Atacama, Poblado Kimal and the
Atacama Adventure Lodge. The rooms are simple,
but most have a swimming pool and all have
good levels of service.
ATACAMA
The Awasi is a beautiful retreat made up of only
eight cottages, each having a private patio, reading
sofa, and indoor and outdoor showers. Local
materials have been crafted to create a unique,
harmonious space designed for relaxation and
rest. The Awasi is unique amongst the hotels in
San Pedro in that it prepares private outings for
its guests that are customised to ensure
adventure and surprise.
Alto Atacama, near San Pedro de Atacama
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Chile 107
Osorno Volcano at sunrise
The Lake District
Pucón and around
Puerto Varas and around
Chile’s Lake District starts in the north at
Temuco and stretches over 300 kilometres south
to Puerto Montt, where the gentle lakes end and
the landscape changes into the harsher face of
northern Patagonia. It is an impossibly pretty
region of the bluest waters, white-tipped
volcanoes, waterfalls and ancient forests. It is
perfect for hiking, bike riding, fishing, relaxing in
thermal pools, languorous cruises around fjords
and glaciers, and the enjoyment of fresh air
(although be prepared for some rain). You can
either base yourself at one of the charming hotels
and take daily excursions, or drive yourself around
the region (see feature on page 111).
Pucón is the popular and stylish epicentre of all
activity in the northern lakes area. If you enjoy
fishing, rafting, rambling, horse riding or would like
to climb the slopes of the Villarica volcano, then
this is the place for you. We can arrange car hire,
or for our local guides to take you and a picnic
out for the day by road, foot or boat, but if you
prefer simply to relax and take in the views,
there is no better place in which to do it.
The best place to base yourself to explore the
southern lakes area is in or around the small town
of Puerto Varas, with its enviable location on the
shores of Lake Llanquihue. Famous for the roses
which bloom all over the town from December
to March, Puerto Varas is overlooked by the
conical peaks of Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes
and is a lovely place to unwind during your travels
through Chile. Day trips can be arranged to
Petrohue Falls and the national parks of Vicente
Perez Rosales and Alerce Andino, the interesting
settlements of Puerto Octay (its Germanic roots
reflected in its Bavarian-style architecture) and
the little lakeside resort of Frutillar, or Chiloé
Island, a mysterious place of myth and legend.
Those travelling into Argentina via the famous
and picturesque ‘Lake Crossing’ will do so from
Puerto Varas by bus and boat through the
Andes in one or two days (with a stop
overnight in Puella).
Church, Puerto Varas
108
ANTUMALAL,
NEAR
PUCÓN
Situated two kilometres outside Pucón, set in
over five hectares of landscaped gardens and
with its own private beach and dock, is the
Antumalal hotel. Its low-slung 1950s design was
very advanced for its time and provided the
inspiration for the renowned Explora hotels in the
Atacama and Patagonia. The hotel’s modern style
is combined with cosy comfort and personalised
service – the Pollak family have managed it since
the beginning – and facilities include a heated
outdoor swimming pool and tennis court.
Excursions on foot, by boat or on horseback can
be organised for you by the hotel’s exclusive
guides. Each of the 16 rooms has a view of
either Lake Villarrica or the gardens from their
floor to ceiling windows, as do the restaurant,
lounge and terrace.
CASA MOLINA,
PUERTO VARAS
NEAR
Ten kilometres out of Puerto Varas, Casa Molino
has a wonderful location on Lake Llanquihue, with
stunning views to the nearby Osorno volcano.
There are 11 rooms, some with fireplaces and
Jacuzzis and all with views either to the lake or
to the gardens.
Local farmer, near Puerto Varas
Chiloé Island
Puerto Varas and the Osorno Volcano
Flower sellers, Puerto Montt
Forest and waterfall, Aisén
QUINCHO COUNTRY HOME,
PUERTO VARAS
ACCOMMODATION
AISÉN REGION
NEAR
Overlooking Lake Llanquihue ten kilometres from
Puerto Varas in the opposite direction to Casa
Molino, Quincho Country Home is an incredibly
welcoming home from home in the Chilean lakes.
The house is beautifully designed and decorated,
and with only four rooms, each guest is attended
to with great care and attention to detail.
Delicious home cooked food with fresh, local
ingredients is combined with fine wine.
Quincho Country Home
Aisén
Chile’s Southern Highway, begun in 1976 under
the determined project management of General
Pinochet, snakes south from Puerto Montt
through the country’s remote Aisén region down
to southern Patagonia. The landscape through
which you pass is dramatic, pristine, and enticingly
studded with waterfalls, rivers, forests and lakes.
The road’s romantic ending is a forced one; at the
tiny hamlet of Villa O’Higgins it can go no further,
obliged to trail off as the vast Southern Ice Field
takes over. For those keen on road trips, we can
organise a hire car and maps (see feature on
page 111), or we can arrange a guide if you are
heading for a specific attraction, maybe the towns
of Cochrane or Coyhaique, the hanging glaciers of
Queulat, or a cruise through the maze of fjords to
the mighty glacier on Lake San Rafael. If you are
short of time, you can fly into the town of
Balmaceda, which allows easy access to the
attractions of the region.
Mapuche boy
IN THE
Scattered throughout this lush area are a number
of rustic lodges which offer comfortable
accommodation and a great range of outdoor
activities, so that you can make the most of the
mountains, glaciers, lakes and rivers. Mallín
Colorado Ecolodge and Terra Luna are both
situated on the shores of Lake General Carrera,
both offer a warm welcome and a range of
excursions by foot, horseback, bicycle or boat, plus
fishing trips. Close by, the more luxurious Hacienda
Tres Lagos also offers adventure activities and
pampering. All can arrange excursions to the
Northern Patagonian ice field. The Puyuhuapi
Lodge & Spa is a more remote property only
accessible by boat, a journey that provides
stunning views of the dramatic fjord scenery.
Icebergs from the San Rafael Glacier
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Chile 109
Skorpios II
Chile by water
Chile’s unique ribbon-like shape gives it over
4,300 kilometres of coastline stretching down
the west coast of South America. The bottom
third of this coastline is a fragmented landscape,
as if this part of Chile was once dropped on the
floor and it shattered into a thousand pieces.
This means that there are many fjords, islets,
archipelagos and peninsulas to explore, and
there is no better (indeed there is no other)
way to explore this fascinating territory than by
taking to the water. This can be done either as
a day trip, on a longer journey as a means of
getting from place to place, or on a relaxing
cruise as a key part of your Chile trip.
NAVIMAG
Navimag operate passenger ferries (carrying
between 100 and 250 people) between Puerto
Montt and Puerto Natales, a journey that is
impossible to complete by road on the mainland
due to the obstacle of the Southern Patagonia
Ice Field. They also operate various other routes
in the area which are ideal for travellers, locals
and cargo alike. Joining the ferry offers you the
unique chance to see the fjords and coastline
of southern Chile go by at a leisurely pace,
allowing you plenty of time to spot dolphins
and whales along the way, as you wind your
way through narrow channels and along the
side of spectacular glaciers. The atmospheric
journey takes three nights and leaves you at the
gateway of Torres del Paine. Cabins are basic
but food plentiful and community spirit abounds,
with nightly gatherings to enjoy a pisco sour,
Chile’s traditional drink.
SKORPIOS
The vessels Skorpios II and III follow three
different routes through the channels and fjords
of Chilean Patagonia on cruises lasting between
three and five nights. The itineraries visit the
fringes of either the Northern or Southern
Patagonian Ice fields between Puerto Montt and
Puerto Natales. The boats have a capacity of up
to 130 passengers, with well-furnished, modern
en suite cabins on a number of decks, and a
good menu of local Chilean cuisine. Daily
excursions by motor launch take you to explore
the mainland, cruise through the dramatic
icebergs, or up to the face of huge glaciers.
CRUCEROS AUSTRALIS
Finally, to the very tip of the continent. The
Beagle Channel and Cape Horn (weather
permitting!) are two of the highlights of the
‘Cruceros Australis’ cruises that sail the waters
between Punta Arenas in Chile and Ushuaia,
on Tierra del Fuego in Argentina, on three and
four night voyages. There are daily excursions
to see glaciers, elephant seal and penguin
colonies, plus lectures from the knowledgeable
guides, as well as evening entertainment.
Comfortable cabins and plentiful food and
drink mean these trips are a fabulous way to
experience some of the remotest parts of the
continent in a little bit of comfort. The cruises
operate from September to April, with
occasional sailings in the winter months.
NOCTILUCA
A 20 metre motor yacht which can sail into
places that the bigger boats cannot, the
Noctiluca offers a unique and intimate sailing
experience with personalised itineraries around
the beautiful and remote Aisén region.
Noctiluca was constructed on Chiloé Island
from a unique Patagonian wood that has been
used for centuries by the local mariners, and
sleeps four to eight passengers. It has a
comfortable lounge area, spacious outer decks
and the food and wine is of the highest quality.
A truly exclusive experience.
Noctiluca
110
Typical road, northern Chile
Chile by road
As well as the 4,300 kilometres of coastline,
Chile’s unique geography also creates some
wonderful opportunities for road travel, either
with a driver on some of the more challenging
terrain, or driving yourself. Independent selfdrive in South America as a whole is not always
the easiest thing in the world, even for
experienced independent travellers, because of
undeveloped roads, a lack of ‘road etiquette’
and sparse road signs. Chile, however, is an
exception and offers fantastic opportunities to
explore under your own steam. The romantic
notion of driving from top to bottom of the
country is actually an impossibility though, as
the Southern Patagonia Ice Field bisects the
country, and the roads cannot cross it.
The North
One of the most spectacular overland trips in
the world is between southwestern Bolivia and
Chile’s Atacama Desert. This is a trip where you
definitely need to be a passenger and let an
expert who knows the area do the driving, as
much of it is off-road amongst the Salar de
Uyuni salt flats (see page 30), volcanoes and
colourful lagoons. The scenery is breathtaking,
from seeing the curvature of the earth when
standing on the dazzling white salt, to the
descent into the oasis town of San Pedro de
Atacama. The Explora hotel (see page 107)
arranges a travesía (‘journey’) from its property
in San Pedro up through this area, in incredibly
luxurious style considering the remoteness of
the terrain. There are also other less expensive
options for those not staying at the Explora.
These trips stay in simpler places with less
creature comforts, but all use sturdy 4x4s, a
pre requisite for the region.
The Centre
Driving yourself from Santiago down to the
Chilean Lake District is a wonderfully relaxing
few days along good roads, via some of the best
wine-producing regions in the country. Once in
the Lake District, you will find some of the best
self-driving opportunities in South America, with
good roads that skirt by emerald green lakes,
wind around volcanoes and pass through small
picturesque towns.
To the north of the region you will find the
town of Pucón nestled under the Villarrica
Volcano and as you travel south from here you
enter one of the most indigenous parts of Chile.
The Huilo Huilo Nature Reserve lies on the
other side of the volcano, and is full of ancient
woodland, remote lakes and a deep sense of
history and tradition rooted in the Mapuche
Indian past. Driving south you enter a region
that was heavily populated by German
immigrants in the 19th century. This is the most
commonly visited part of the region, focused
around the town of Puerto Varas. Having a car
here allows you the flexibility to explore the
region at your own pace.
Driving over into the Argentinian Lake District
is possible, but one of the quirks of the hire car
set up is that it can be prohibitively expensive to
return a hire car to a different country, so we
would recommend looping back into Chile.
For the more adventurous there is the option
of driving further south, down into the Aisén
region. Mainly on unpaved roads, and with the
need for some ferries, this can be a challenging
trip, but it is through some of the most pristine
areas of Chile, much of it national parks. There
are lodges along the route, which becomes
more rugged as you travel south. Finally, you can
go no further, the road stops at the settlement
of Villa O’Higgins as the Southern Patagonian Ice
Field proves an impassable barrier.
The South
Below the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, roads
start up again, and exploring this end of Chile by
road is all about long journeys across wide open
expanses of Patagonian steppe. Driving yourself
around Torres del Paine National Park is an
interesting way of seeing the magnificent scenery
at your own pace, giving you a little more
flexibility to explore on your own rather than
being in a group.
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Chile 111
Torres del Paine National Park
Torres del Paine
National Park
The most famous national park in Chile and all
of Patagonia, Torres del Paine is remote, rugged
and windswept. While this makes it lengthy to
reach and demanding to explore, its seclusion is
the very essence of its appeal and it is undeniably
worth the effort. Unless crossing into the park by
road from Argentina via El Calafate, you will arrive
by air into Punta Arenas; Chile’s southernmost
city, a bustling place of multi-coloured houses
that resonate with pioneer spirit. You may wish
to stay a night here before or after your time in
the park itself, in order to break up the long
journey. To get into the park you will travel
through the Patagonian steppe for 300 kilometres
to Puerto Natales, and then on another 100
kilometres to the park itself where your first
sighting of the eponymous torres (towers) and
the uniquely smooth and twisted cuernos (horns)
of the Paine Massif will be unforgettable. Once
there, the incredible landscape is waiting to be
explored, either by foot, boat, bike, horse or
vehicle. We particularly recommend an
afternoon’s sailing on Lago Grey to approach the
glacier of the same name, navigating through vivid
blue icebergs on the way. However you choose
to explore you will marvel at emerald and
turquoise lakes, waterfalls and grazing guanacos.
For those who fancy some trekking you can take
a hard day’s hike to the base of the towers, or a
longer circuit involving camping and up to six
days’ walking.
EXPLORA EN PATAGONIA,
TORRES DEL PAINE
Sister to the Atacama hotel, the Patagonian
Explora may be wildly different in terms of setting,
but its design, facilities and service are equally
outstanding. All public areas and the Scandinavianstyle bedrooms have views of the lake, mountain
range or the Salto Chico waterfall. Some rooms
have Jacuzzis, but there are also open air pools,
saunas and hot tubs. As in the Atacama, all your
transportation, meals and excursions are included,
and the expert guides will share with you their
knowledge and love of Chile’s most famous
national park.
Explora en Patagonia
112
REMOTA, PUERTO NATALES
An ultra-modern, environmentally-friendly building
on the water’s edge to the north of Puerto
Natales, Remota has comfortable and stylish
rooms, and large public areas dominated by open
fires with spectacular views of Seno Ultima
Esperanza. The hotel aims to show visitors more
of Chilean Patagonia than a traditional visit to
Torres del Paine National Park may offer by
organising trips outside of the main park areas.
PATAGONIA CAMP, TORRES
PAINE
DEL
Located on the shores of Lago Toro, an hour
from Puerto Natales and an hour from the
famous towers of Torres del Paine, Patagonia
Camp accommodates its guests in ‘yurts’ or
wooden tents with central heating and en suite
facilities. Each yurt has fantastic views and a
private balcony and a skylight in the roof so you
can see the stars while you lie in bed.
Patagonia Camp
Guanaco, Torres del Paine National Park
Lago Gray, Torres del Paine National Park
Moai, Easter Island
LODGE CERRO GUIDO, TORRES
DEL PAINE
faces of hundreds of stone statues or ‘moai’
that gaze from all corners of the island. A three
or four night trip to this intriguing destination
means coming face to face with these moai,
admiring their form and size and pondering the
mysteries of why and how they were erected.
The population centres on the small town of
Hanga Roa in the southwest of the island, from
where you can explore the island with a guide,
or independently, and by hire car, foot or on
horseback, depending on your preferences
and budget.
This is a perfect place for keen horse riders to
experience Patagonia and see parts of the
national park that very few people are likely to
experience. Located close to the Argentine
border, and indeed feeling like something of an
outpost, the lodge has seven comfortable
rooms and a restaurant with stunning views
across the park.
OTHER ACCOMMODATION
TORRES DEL PAINE
OPTIONS,
Aside from the accommodation mentioned
above, which we have chosen for either the
uniqueness of their setting or service, there are
other choices that offer comfortable and cosy
accommodation and are good bases from which
to explore the area. Our recommendations
include Hotel Las Torres, Hosteria Lago Grey
(with its spectacular views over the lake and
glacier of the same name), the small and
welcoming Cabañas del Paine and Rio Serrano.
Easter Island
Out in the Pacific Ocean, a five hour flight west
from the Chilean mainland, lies a tiny speck of
volcanic rock. This is Easter Island, or Rapa Nui
as it is known to the locals, a place that has
fascinated traveller and scholars alike for centuries.
This is due to the squat bodies and brooding
ACCOMMODATION
EASTER ISLAND
ON
There are a range of accommodation options
on Easter Island. The most luxurious choice is the
youngest of the Explora properties, Explora Rapa
Nui. Set on a hill that faces the sea in the south
west of the island, five kilometres from the town
of Hanga Roa. Volcanic rock from the island and
wood from the mainland have been used in the
construction of the property, which has 30 guest
rooms branching off from the living and dining
areas. There’s also a bar, massage salon and an
open-air pool. The Hanga Roa Eco Village & Spa
is another luxurious option, whilst cheaper
properties include the Iorana, Otai and Gomero.
These hotels are without luxurious trimmings, but
are friendly and relaxed properties, all located in
and around Hanga Roa.
Explora Rapa Nui
Isla Navarino
The island of Isla Navarino lies at the far
southern tip of Chile, a place that throughout
history has been a safe haven for countless ships,
limping in to gather strength for, or recover
from, sailing around Cape Horn. Today’s visitors
are more likely to be adventurous travellers
looking for somewhere utterly remote to trek
and spot wildlife, and have a drink in the world’s
most southerly pub in Puerto Williams, the
world’s most southerly permanent settlement
(outside of Antarctica). Isla Navarino is reached
by a short flight (or long ferry trip) from Punta
Arenas, and accommodation is at Lakutaia, a
rustic but comfortable lodge from where you
can explore the very end of the world.
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Chile 113
Calama
Santiago
CHILE
ARGENTINA
Puerto Montt
Torres del Paine
Punta Arenas
Classic Chile
Lago Gray, Torres del Paine National Park
Tailoring your trip
Please call one of our Chile specialists to start
Telephone: 01993 838 640
Getting around
Travel around such an unusually-shaped country
does present some challenges with regard to
distances and logistics. We will advise you on the
ideal sequence in which to organise your trip,
according to internal flight schedules, climate,
departure days of cruises or entry days of hotels,
if applicable. The flight network is extensive and
keeps to a good timetable.
Trips from Chile
The mysterious stone statues of Easter Island
lie a five hour flight from Chile. We can organise
three or four night trips here (depending on the
flight schedules) from Santiago, where the flights
depart from. Once you are on the island we
can arrange excursions with specialist guides,
or car hire if you wish to explore under your
own steam.
When to go
Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
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✓
✓
✓
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As befits a country that spans a range of latitudes,
Chile has many different climatic regions. The
Atacama and sub-tropical Easter Island are warm
and dry throughout the year. From Santiago
down to the Lake District and on down through
Patagonia the seasons are the reverse of our
own, with the peak travel season from October
to April, although the area can also be visited all
year round.
Day 1
Day 2
Arrive in Santiago. Optional
afternoon city tour.
Day 3
Fly north to Calama, and transfer
to the oasis village of San Pedro
de Atacama.
Days 4-5
Excursions around the stark but
beautiful Atacama Desert.
Day 6
Fly south to Puerto Montt in Chile’s
Lake District. Transfer to your hotel
in the lakeside town of Puerto Varas.
Day 7
A full day excursion to visit Peulla
and the waterfalls at Petrohue.
Days 8-9
At leisure to explore the
Lake District.
Day 10
Fly south to Punta Arenas from
where you’ll begin your journey into
Torres del Paine National Park.
Prices
for your trip to Chile on our website, alternatively
Days 11-12 Excursions into Torres del Paine,
by foot, horse or vehicle.
Day 13
Fly from Punta Arenas back to
Santiago. Spend your last night in
Chile in the city.
Day 14
Day 15
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
After a busy trip like this you may wish to have
some rest and relaxation on a beach, for this we
recommend stopping in Brazil on the way home.
Fly to São Paulo and then transfer to one of the
small hotels dotted along the golden sands of the
Green Coast (see page 62).
The fascinating Falkland Islands lie in the South
Atlantic, an hour’s flight from Punta Arenas in
southern Chile. At present there is one flight a
week to and from Chile and Mount Pleasant,
the international airport in the Falkland Islands.
They make a wonderful extension to any trip to
Chile, as they are teeming with wildlife including
penguins, sea lions, elephant seals and a wide
variety of marine birds (see pages 116-119).
Cowboys, southern Patagonia
114
This itinerary takes in the country’s most famous
highlights in two weeks. A treat for those with a
love of the great outdoors, this trip takes you to
the Atacama Desert for a chance to see volcanoes,
salt flats and geysers before flying south to the
contrasting landscape of the Lake District with its
rolling hills and snow-capped mountains. Finally
venture into Chilean Patagonia with a stay in the
unique Torres del Paine National Park.
Santiago
Santiago
Calama
Buenos Aires
ARGENTINA
CHILE
CHILE
ARGENTINA
Pucón
Puerto Varas
CHILE
ARGENTINA
El Calafate
Santiago
Torres del Paine
Colchagua Valley
Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas
Patagonia Explored
Vineyards and Volcanoes
Self-drive through Chile
This trip takes in two of the main highlights of the
wonderful and vast expanse of Patagonia – Torres
del Paine National Park in Chile and the Perito
Moreno Glacier in Argentina. By choosing how you
would like to explore these places you can make
the trip as active or as relaxing as you wish, so the
only prerequisite is a love of the great outdoors.
For those who are partial to wine and adventure
but are perhaps a little short on time this is the
ideal trip. It can also be done all year round.
Start by exploring the capital of Santiago before
heading into the nearby Central Valley to visit
some world-famous vineyards and wineries. Then
head north to the Atacama Desert for some
adventurous explorations amongst the volcanoes.
If you like the independence of driving yourself
around, Chile is a perfect destination. Start in
Santiago and finish in the Lake District some 1,000
kilometres later, having explored the vineyards of
the Central Valley and enjoyed the beautiful
scenery of the northern and southern Lake District.
Day 1
Day 2
Arrive in Santiago. Optional
afternoon city tour.
Day 3
Fly south to Punta Arenas, and
transfer into Torres del Paine
National Park.
Arrive in Santiago, afternoon at
leisure to relax or explore.
Day 3
Pick up your hire car and begin the
journey south towards the wineries
of the Central Valley, where you will
stay overnight.
Day 2
Arrive in Santiago. Afternoon
at leisure.
Day 3
A morning tour of Chile’s capital city.
Day 4
Travel south of Santiago into the
Colchagua Valley, the heart of Chile’s
wine producing region.
Day 4
A full day tour of some local
vineyards to see the production
process.
Continue south out of the vineyards
and drive through rolling hills heading
for Chillán.
Day 5
Continue on down the Pan American
Highway, heading towards the start
of the Chilean Lake District. Stay for
two nights in Pucón.
Day 6
Explore the area of the Northern
Lake District in your hire car.
Day 7
Heading off the main route a little
you will drive towards Huilo Huilo.
Day 6
Travel overland across the border
with Argentina to the town of
El Calafate.
Day 5
A trip to the mighty Perito Moreno
Glacier including a trek on the ice
itself (age restrictions apply).
Day 6
At leisure, or take an optional
excursion into the Patagonian
countryside to see a local estancia,
or further glaciers.
Days 7-8
Return to Santiago and fly north to
Calama, from here transfer to the
small town of San Pedro de Atacama.
Explore the magical landscape of the
Atacama Desert, by foot, horse,
bicycle or vehicle.
Day 9
Fly back to Santiago and connect
Day 8
Leaving Huilo Huilo drive south to
the lakeside town of Puerto Varas.
A full day tour exploring the
fascinating capital of Argentina.
Day 10
Arrive in the UK.
Day 9
A day to explore the area, perhaps
taking the ferry to visit Chiloé Island.
Stay longer
Day 10
For those with a sense of adventure and a love of
the great outdoors there is nothing more
spectacular than heading up from San Pedro de
Atacama into southwestern Bolivia. Visit multicoloured lagoons, marvel at stark landscapes
dotted with nothing but llamas, and walk on the
largest salt pan in the world at Uyuni.
Fly south to Punta Arenas, pick up a
new car and travel into Torres del
Paine National Park.
Days 11-12 Self-drive explorations of Torres del
Paine and around.
Day 9
Fly north to Buenos Aires.
Day 10
Day 11
Day 12
Day 2
Excursions into Torres del Paine,
by foot, horse or vehicle.
Day 8
Day 1
Days 4-5
Day 7
Day 1
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
The Lake Districts of either Chile or Argentina can
be visited on the journey south or north in this
itinerary, so that northern Patagonia can also be
explored. Alternatively Peninsula Valdés in
Argentina is great for wildlife enthusiasts, the
abundant marine life can be seen by stopping off
here on the way up to Buenos Aires.
Day 13
Drive back to Punta Arenas, fly to
Santiago where you will spend
the night.
Day 14
Transfer to the airport to begin your
journey home.
Day 15
Arrive in the UK.
Stay longer
Any trip to Chile with time in Torres del Paine
means that crossing over into Argentina to see the
Perito Moreno glacier is easily possible. This can
then be followed with a few days in the fascinating
capital of Buenos Aires.
Atacama Desert
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Chile 115
Falkland Islands
H
uge skies, pure clean air, peace
and tranquillity and a warm
welcome – not to mention the curious
experience of having penguins inspect
your shoelaces – await you when you
visit the wild and rugged Falkland
Islands. One of the main reasons to
visit is the outstanding wildlife
viewing opportunities afforded by the
islands’ location close to the Antarctic
convergence. However, the fabulous
bird and marine life is just part of
the islands’ charm. It is a wonderful
destination for anyone who wants
to learn about the pioneering spirit
of the current islanders’ ancestors,
or for those who simply want to
walk, draw, photograph or fish in
glorious isolation. There is also the
islands’ recent history, which is well
documented in a number of museums
and memorials. A visit to the unique,
starkly beautiful Falkland Islands is
a rich and rewarding experience.
King penguins at Volunteer Point
1 West Point Island
2
3 Saunders Island
Visit one of the largest blackbrowed albatross colonies in
the world.
Stay at the deserted Rookery for
the most off-the-beaten track
wildlife experience imaginable.
2 Carcass Island
A small and incredibly
picturesque island, home to a
large variety of wildlife from
birds to elephant seals.
4 Pebble Island
A great place for long but gentle
walks, with abundant wildlife
from penguins to seals to enjoy
along the way.
5 Port Howard
Stroll around the largest working
sheep farm on West Falkland.
3
4
1
7
6
5
8
10
6 San Carlos
This beautiful part of East
Falkland is the site of the British
cemetery honouring the fallen
of the 1982 conflict.
7 Volunteer Point
The world’s most accessible
colony of king penguins is a
fascinating place to watch the
social interaction of these
beautiful birds.
8 Stanley
A little piece of Britain in the
South Atlantic, the capital is a
great place to feel the unique
spirit of the islands.
9 Sea Lion Island
A stone’s throw from the lodge
is a beach that is a favourite of
both elephant seals and orcas.
10 Darwin & Goose Green
Places whose names resonate
with memories of the
1982 conflict.
9
116
Stanley
The capital of the Falklands, with a population
of around 2,000, is a charming place with just a
few streets of colourful houses, a smattering of
red phone boxes, a few lively pubs and a
selection of the latest 4x4s, all set on a gentle
slope beside Stanley Harbour. The compact town
can be easily appreciated simply by wandering the
streets on foot. From the 1982 Memorial walk
along the harbour front, passing the rusting hulks
of ships that never made it round treacherous
Cape Horn, explore the whimsical Stanley
Museum, visit the world’s most southerly
cathedral and stand beneath Whale Bone Arch,
made in 1933 from the jawbones of two blue
whales to celebrate the centenary of continuous
British administration. Pass Jubilee Villas (built to
commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond
Jubilee), drop into the informative Visitor Centre,
then explore Cartmell Cottage, one of the earliest
residential buildings in Stanley, built in 1849 using
a kit sent from Britain. Finally, stop off in one of
Stanley’s distinctly English pubs to chat to some
locals over a beer. For accommodation in Stanley
we recommend either the wonderfully friendly
Lafone House or Malvina House, the only real
hotels on the islands.
Carcass Island
When the sun is shining, this is arguably the most
beautiful of the islands, with rolling green hills
contrasting with vibrant yellow gorse, white sand
beaches and the pale blue sea. Wildlife spotting
opportunities are even more plentiful thanks to
a lack of predatory rodents or cats, and you can
spot gentoo and Magellanic penguin breeding
colonies within a few hours scenic but windy walk
from the settlement. Sometimes the penguins
treat you to a show on your doorstep, when they
obligingly nest in the settlement itself. Other
sighted inhabitants include kelp, upland and ruddy
geese, Patagonian crested duck, flightless steamer
duck, Falkland thrush, caracara, and pied, black
and Magellanic oystercatchers. On the larger side
of life you will also find colonies of elephant seals.
Audley in the
Falkland Islands
Elephant seals, Carcass Island
Volunteer Point
A bumpy three hour journey by 4x4 across
rolling moors brings you to Volunteer Point,
home to the world’s largest accessible colony of
king penguins. En route you’ll pass through a stark
but beautiful landscape of rolling moors dotted
with glacial-scarred rock. Once at Volunteers
you enter a world where the white sandy beach,
rolling hills, lagoon and the pebble shore belong
to the penguins. As a (largely ignored) visitor,
it is a privilege to experience one of nature’s
most endearing and awe-inspiring scenes.
Watch these fascinating, sociable creatures go
about their daily life of breeding, preening,
protecting and feeding their young. Crouch on
the grass and observe the comical sight of what
appear to be balls of brown fluff with feet,
padding about. These are the young king penguins
in adolescence, before they moult their soft down
to reveal their trademark svelte black and white
coats with distinctive amber neck markings.
West Point
As a side trip by boat from Carcass Island you can
visit this tiny craggy island for a day. It is home to
a great rockhopper penguin colony but also, and
the main reason for going, is to see a massive
black-browed albatross colony. Here you can sit
and watch these huge and beautiful birds
returning from the sea to feed their chicks.
Our in-depth first hand knowledge of the
islands, the accommodation, the excursions,
the wildlife-watching opportunities and our
friendships with some of the locals means
that we will ensure you get the most out of
your visit by creating a trip tailored just for
you. Getting there is an adventure in itself,
and there are three main ways to reach the
islands, which are situated one hour’s flight
off mainland South America in the South
Atlantic ocean. We use either the scheduled
weekly LAN service from Santiago, Chile via
Punta Arenas (ideal if you are already on a
trip to Chile, or indeed anywhere in South
America), or you can travel on the RAF
service from Brize Norton in Oxfordshire
via Ascension Island. In either case you
land at the military base of Mount Pleasant
from where you will start your tour. The
alternative way to visit the islands is as part
of an Antarctica cruise that stops off here,
please see pages 120-122.
Accommodation
Accommodation, apart from in the capital
Stanley, is in family lodges or self-catering
cottages within the settlement. Standards
vary and en suite facilities are not always
available. Dining and socialising with your
fellow travellers and hosts provides a more
personal and authentic local experience.
Your hosts will also act as your guides to
the local sights. Not all of the islands are
currently open to visitors, and there are also
some other lodges scattered throughout
East and West Falkland that are not
mentioned here due to space restrictions.
Find out more
information about travel in the Falkland
Islands, please see page 119.
☎ Discuss your plans with our Falkland
Islands specialists 01993 838 644
Cormorants, Pebble Island
Falkland Islands 117
Black-browed albatross, Saunders Island
Saunders Island
Sea Lion Island
Home to king, rockhopper and Magellanic
penguins, a large colony of black-browed albatross
and many other varieties of sea bird, Saunders
Island is a wildlife lover’s paradise. Sea lions and
dolphins often frolic in the harbour shallows and
the owners of the island, will happily guide you to
see the best of the island’s other wildlife. We
recommend nature photography enthusiasts stay
a few nights at the Neck, an isolated hide where
the natural world takes centre stage. Otherwise
there is a simple lodge at the Rookery, close to a
rockhopper penguin colony and just a short walk
from a freshwater ‘shower’ used by these
comical birds.
Sea Lion Island boasts the most hotel-like
accommodation outside of the capital, Sea Lion
Lodge. Its ideal location overlooking a gentoo
penguin colony makes a pre-breakfast amble
through the tussock grass to the sea shore a
delightful way to start the day. Here you can sit
quietly with the sea lions and elephant seals who
are lazing about on the sandy beach, but since
orcas have been known to arrive at the shore to
snatch their breakfast, we recommend avoiding
a morning dip in the sea.
Pebble Island
118
Pebble Island
Pebble Island
A lovely place for hiking and wildlife spotting in
the day, and relaxing and enjoying the cosy lodge
in the evening, Pebble Island is home to a plentiful
and diverse array of penguin colonies. This is a
great place to spend hours immersed in the
wonderful noisy interaction of penguin society
where it has been known for some lucky visitors
to see six different species of penguin in a single
day. Rest on a rock to watch the sociable
rockhoppers leave their nests, gather in little
groups, and set off in their comical gait on a
perilous trip down the cliffs to the sea. Pebble is
also home to some of the island’s best wetlands
giving huge variety to the birdlife viewing on
offer here. On a different note, Pebble was the
site of an assault made by the SAS during the
1982 conflict and is home to the memorial to
HMS Coventry.
Port Howard
Once the largest settlement outside Stanley and
still a working farm, Port Howard, on West
Falkland, is a fascinating introduction to the
farming history of the islands. Your flight in will
bring you over the high ridge that circles the farm
and you will soon be tucking into the hearty
‘smoko’ (tea and cake break) that is typical of the
Falklands. You may be here at the right time to
see some of the sheep shearing gangs hard at
work, this is also one of the best fly fishing
destinations in the world and a trip out with a
gillie is a rewarding experience for any fisherman.
Tailoring your trip
Carcass Island
Pebble
Island
Carcass
Island
Stanley
Darwin
Mount
Pleasant
Please call one of our Falkland Islands specialists
to start planning your itinerary.
Telephone: 01993 838 644
Sea Lion
Island
Getting around
Travelling between the islands is by the FIGAS
(Falkland Island Government Air Service) eight
seater twin-engined Islander aircraft which act
almost as a taxi service. We will design your
trip to suit your specific interests, and your
itinerary will probably take in Stanley plus one
or two ‘Camp’ settlements (Camp is the term
for any settlements within the islands that are
not Stanley).
Classic Falklands
A trip that allows you to see all sides of life in the
islands. Marvel at the incredible wildlife, learn about
the recent military history, and meet many of the
fascinating islanders.
Day 1
Fly from Brize Norton via Ascension
Island to the Falklands.
Day 2
Arrive in Mount Pleasant and transfer
to Darwin House.
Day 3
Fly to Carcass Island, afternoon
explorations of this small, but
beautiful island.
Day 4
Enjoy walks around Carcass Island.
~
Day 5
✕
Take a boat trip to visit West Point
Island, home to a huge colony of
black-browed albatross.
Day 6
Fly to Pebble Island, one of the larger
islands of the Falklands.
When to go
Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓
King penguins, Volunteer Point
Goose Green, Darwin
and San Carlos
The East Falkland area of Goose Green,
Darwin and San Carlos has become
synonymous with the 1982 conflict. Darwin
Lodge is your base for exploring this region
where your friendly hosts will act as your
guides to the Goose Green battle site, the
War Museum, and the windswept and
poignant British and Argentine cemeteries.
Even if the recent military history of the islands
is not the primary reason for your visit, we
recommend you include a trip to this area as
it is integral to your understanding of life on
the islands. For those who want to see more
of East Falkland there are also some simple,
self-catering cabins that can be booked in
conjunction with a hire car.
✓
✕
✕
✕
✕
✓
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓
The Falkland Islands have a temperate climate,
with the ideal time to visit falling during the
summer months between October and March.
It is at this time that the hours of daylight are at
their longest, however ‘four seasons in one day’
is always a possibility, and the winds are
persistent all year round.
Day 7
Explore the island by foot or jeep,
spending time at many of the
penguin colonies.
Day 8
Fly on to Sea Lion Island.
Day 9
Walk around the island to see some
of the remarkable local wildlife.
Day 10
Fly back to Stanley, take a walking
tour of the capital including the
museum and Conflict Memorial.
Day 11
Take a trip to visit the king penguin
colony at Volunteer Point.
Day 12
Transfer to Mount Pleasant for your
international flight home.
Day 13
Arrive back in the UK.
Prices
prices for your trip to Falkland Islands on our
website, alternatively please call our specialists
to discuss your plans.
Stay longer
The international flights go via Ascension Island,
so we can arrange stopovers here for those with
an interest in this remote British overseas territory
in the South Atlantic. You can also combine the
Falkland Islands with a trip to Chile, and fly on
scheduled LAN flights via Chile rather than the
RAF flights from Brize Norton.
Stanley
Gentoo penguins, Carcass Island
www.audleytravel.com/falklandislands
●
01993 838 644
●
Falkland Islands 119
Antarctica
ntarctica, owned by no one
and visited by few, is the
world’s coldest, windiest and
wildest continent. It is an area of
awe-inspiring desolation, yet
captivating beauty, where you can
see creaking blue glaciers, dazzling
white snow, the most radiant
sunshine and the harshest of skies,
all in one day. Icebergs drift slowly
by as whales flip their tails above
glassy seas, seals bask on icy shelves
and penguins chatter raucously in
vast rookeries. Man’s presence is seen
only rarely: the abandoned shelters of
polar explorers and whaling stations
rusting in the sun. Visiting what is
possibly the world’s ultimate travel
frontier, the ‘White Continent’, will
be a truly unforgettable experience.
A
Adelie penguins, Antarctica
1 Drake Passage
To some it’s something to be
endured, to others it's the start
of the incredible adventure, the
Drake Passage is a rite of
passage for Antarctic explorers.
2 Lemaire Channel
3
1
2
One of the most picturesque
parts of the Antarctic Peninsula,
a narrow channel between
towering mountains and glaciers.
3 South Georgia
Home to hundreds of thousands
of king penguins and a lot of
historical human endeavour.
Minke whale, Antarctica
120
Penguins
Comical on land, graceful in the
water, hugely sociable – hours
can be spent with the penguins.
Species include Adélie, gentoo,
king and chinstrap.
Whales and dolphins
Minke, fin, blue, humpback and
orca are some of the species
you might encounter during
your cruise.
Camping and kayaking
Wrap up warm and imagine
you are an intrepid explorer.
Audley in Antarctica
A visit to Antarctica is an astonishing trip of
a lifetime, these expedition cruises are
educational, challenging and like no other,
and a journey of this magnitude needs to be
perfectly planned. We recommend a small
selection of expedition vessels, all of which
our Polar specialists have travelled on or
inspected, giving them unrivalled knowledge
and enabling them to offer first-hand advice
on which vessel best suits you. We only
work with companies in Antarctica who are
committed to ensuring that any impact on
the environment is minimised.
Practicalities
Lemaire Channel, Antarctica
Expedition cruising
The simplest and most cost-effective way to
experience Antarctica is on board an expedition
cruise ship departing from the southern tip of
South America. These trips head to the Antarctic
Peninsula, the finger of land that beckons upwards
from this vast white continent towards its
neighbour, and also to the islands in the South
Atlantic Ocean. Your days will pass in a whirl of
open-mouthed amazement at the sights, sounds
and experiences – disembarking to observe
penguin colonies and to visit historical settlements
of explorers and whalers, watching out for whales,
plus ideally hours and hours spent standing on
deck, simply marvelling at the glaciers, ice and
mountains. Plus of course eating, drinking, and
meeting like-minded travellers. Your home for
the duration will be one of our carefully selected
expedition cruise vessels which, whilst not the
height of luxury, offer comfortable
accommodation but more importantly
experienced, enthusiastic and knowledgeable
expedition leaders.
Places
Other interesting places visited on cruises include
the British Antarctic Survey base at Port Lockroy
on the Antarctic Peninsula, the photogenic
Lemaire Channel and the Falkland Islands
(see pages 116 to 119).
Wildlife
The abundant wildlife of the Antarctic really does
have the place all to itself and the only fear they
have are of those above them in the food chain.
Penguins are the main attraction with their
comical walks and sociable ways. Species you may
see include Adélie, gentoo, chinstrap, macaroni
and rockhopper. King penguins have colonies on
the Falkland Islands and South Georgia (emperors
are not seen unless on a trip to Snow Hill or on
a land-based trip). Seals of different varieties are
abundant, including elephant seals, crabeaters and
the magnificent and reptilian leopard seal. Whales,
including minke, humpback, southern right and
maybe even blue, glide around the icy waters, as
do pods of orca: meaning time spent on the deck
of your boat as you sail around is almost always
rewarding. In the air a huge variety of sea birds
can be observed, including many species of
albatross and petrels.
The places you will visit are names associated
with Antarctic history and legend. The Drake
Passage, scourge of mariners for hundreds of
years, and now scourge of the travellers who
have to brave it to reach the calm waters of the
Antarctic Peninsula. South Georgia, inexorably
linked to Ernest Shackleton and the Southern
Ocean whaling industry, a beautiful place teeming
with wildlife including hundreds of thousands of
king penguins. Deception Island, an active
volcano blown out into a perfect horseshoe
shaped harbour, and where ongoing geothermal
activity lets you take a warm bath in the sea.
The expedition cruises mentioned opposite
depart from Ushuaia at the far tip of
Argentina for the journey over the Drake
Passage to Antarctica. There are also some
‘fly-cruise’ options for those who would
rather fly over the Drake Passage, you will
then board your cruise boat on King George
Island. The cruise companies operate a
selection of trips ranging from 10 days
around the Antarctic Peninsula, to voyages
of up to 20 days which take in the Antarctic
Peninsula, South Georgia and the Falkland
Islands. Cruises to Antarctica operate during
the Austral summer, early November to late
March. There is no ‘best’ time to go within
this period, although the different months
do have unique characteristics in terms of
the wildlife.
Antarctica brochure
We have a brochure dedicated to Antarctica.
Please call our specialists on 01993 838 615
for your copy.
Find out more
information about travel in Antarctica,
please see our website.
your plans with our Polar
☎ Discuss
Crabeater seal, Antarctica
Antarctica 121
King penguin colony, South Georgia
Adventure
You do not need to be super fit for an
Antarctic cruise, although you need to be mobile
enough to get on and off the small zodiac boats
that are used for the excursions onto shore.
Once on the shore the excursions are not too
hard-going, be it walking up a snow-covered hill
to a penguin colony or stripping to your
swimsuit for a quick dip in the thermal pools on
Deception Island. However, for those with an
extra sense of adventure, some cruises offer
the opportunity to camp for a night or two on
the ice, or to go kayaking amongst the icebergs.
Alternatively, for those with a large wallet and a
hankering for even more adventure, there are
two companies that offer land-based trips into
the heart of the continent, flying in from either
South Africa or Chile and landing on a blue-ice
runway. Once there you could be skiing, trekking
or snow-mobiling or visiting emperor penguins in
one of the most remote places on earth.
The Arctic
In our summertime the boats that ply
the Antarctic waters head up north to
sail around the Arctic. Cruises go to
Spitsbergen (part of the Norwegian
archipelago of Svalbard), Iceland and
Greenland, as well as Canada’s
Northwest Passage and Baffin Island, and
the North Pole. Arctic cruises are both
incredibly similar and totally different to
Antarctic cruises, if that makes sense!
The landscapes are equally stunning,
with glaciers, mountains and icebergs,
and the wildlife too is incredible, but
rather than noisy colonies of penguins
you will hopefully be lucky enough to
have a polar bear encounter. Marine life
and birds are also prolific. Please call
our Polar specialists on 01993 838 615
to learn more.
Antarctic Dream, Antarctica
122
Useful information
Machu Picchu, Peru
Waved albatross, Galapagos Islands
Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
Honeymoons
Responsible travel
A honeymoon to South America will provide a
memorable experience. The continent is able to
cater for whatever type of trip you are looking
for. Whether it is relaxing on a beautiful beach,
enjoying time in lively cities, taking in breathtaking
scenery or all manner of outdoors activities such
as walking or horse riding, your preferences can
easily be catered for. Please call one of our
specialists to discuss your ideas and plans.
We’re passionate about travel but also deeply
aware of the responsibility we have to the people
and places we visit. We believe that a visit from
an Audley traveller should have a positive impact
on the destination and, wherever possible, bring
real benefits. We always endeavour to use locally
owned hotels, work with local guides and
operators, and promote community and wildlife
projects. Our Traveller’s Code offers tips and
advice you can use to ensure your trip does not
threaten the sustainability of the places you visit.
have adequate travel insurance and we are able
to suggest a number of policies either for the
duration of your trip or on an annual basis.
Flights
Direct flights to South America only operate to
São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro in Brazil and Buenos
Aires in Argentina. The continent is usually
reached by flights via mainland Europe with daily
services from Madrid, Paris and Amsterdam to all
the major South American cities. Daily flights
from Lisbon also serve many regional destinations
within Brazil. It is also possible to travel to most
capital cities via the USA. Connecting flights from
UK regional airports can also be arranged so
please tell us if you’d like to fly from your
local airport as this may influence the airline
we choose.
However you choose to reach your South
American destination there are usually a number
of options available. Our specialists will discuss all
the permutations with you and advise you of the
best route to take for your trip.
We carbon offset all our staff flights and you can
choose to do the same, please speak to your
specialist about this or follow the link on our
website www.audleytravel.com/offset.
Our commitment to responsible travel has been
audited by AITO (Association of Independent
Tour Operators) and we have been awarded
five stars, the maximum achievable. We also
support a variety of social and environmental
charities and projects around the world. For more
information about travelling responsibly and the
charities and projects we support please visit
www.audleytravel.com/rt
Terms & Conditions and
Travel Insurance
Your booking is subject to the Terms and
Conditions of Audley Travel, which we will
include with your personalised itinerary and can
also be found on our website. It is vital that you
AITO Membership
Audley is a member of the
Association of Independent Tour
Operators. The Association
represents Britain’s leading independent tour
operators and encourages high standards of
quality and service. Audley abides by the
Assocation’s Code of Conduct and adheres to
the AITO Quality Charter which can be viewed
at www.aito.com
Photography in this brochure
We would like to thank the following
photographers for the images used in this
brochure: Steve Allen, David Fettes, AWL Images,
TIPS images, Istockphoto, Lonely Planet Images,
Alamy, Metropolitan Touring, Lares, Perurail,
Orient Express, Inkaterra, Rainforest Expeditions,
Senderos, Ernesto Barría, and members of the
Audley South America team.
All images used in this brochure were obtained
in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited
and in the belief that all necessary consents and
clearances were obtained for their use. However,
if you believe that unauthorised use has been
made of an image belonging to you please
contact us on 01993 838 040.
Visit our offices
If you would like to discuss your
travel arrangements in person we
welcome personal visits, please
call in advance to arrange an
appointment with one or more of
our country specialists. Our offices
are at the New Mill, a 17th century
converted wool mill on the outskirts
of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford
on the edge of the Cotswolds.
Our website is packed with
information, features and advice
covering all our destinations across
the globe. On the site you can browse by
theme, special interest or region as well as
viewing additional accommodation options
and itineraries that are not featured in
this brochure. You can download all our
brochures online or contact us via the
website where you can fill in the details of
your plans so that we can start tailoring
your itinerary.
www.audleytravel.com/visit-us
Useful information 123
New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom
Telephone: 01993 838 600 • Fax: 01993 838 010
Email: [email protected] • Website: www.audleytravel.com
This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forestry Stewardship Council, using vegetable inks.
Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC environmental accreditations. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.

Find out more - Audley Travel

Transcription

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