the made in switzerland issue

CRB
Digital News
COSMETICS
Issue N°2
Valmont
Swiss Prestige discussed
with Sophie Vann-Guillon
BACK TO BASICS
Anatomy of a cosmetic
FOCUS ON ASIA
Beauty Routines under the lens
THE MADE IN
SWITZERLAND ISSUE
EDITOR’S letter
MADE IN
SWITZERLAND
The Swiss landscapes could be described
as a performance by nature itself. Such
wildness - yet perfect aesthetics, brings to
mind a meticulously orchestrated show.
But it is not for the untouched beauty of
the Swiss scenery that we dedicated this
issue to Switzerland. It is in fact for its
reputation built outside of its frontiers.
The more I travel, the more I have come
to realise what Switzerland essentially
means to the rest of the world; a healthy,
reliable, innovative and technological
country, which happens to possess a pretty
nice panoramic view. Swiss expertise has
maintained a high standard of all-around
quality that has withstood the test of time,
and these core values are reflected in CRB
and Valmont’s heritage, as discussed with
Sophie Vann-Guillon, General Director
(“Interview Valmont”, page 4). However,
it is essential to preserve and protect this
reputation for it is a powerful Marketing
Tool. This is indeed what CRB does every
day (“Made in Switzerland”, page 10).
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Yet, the main goal of this magazine
remains to enable us to give you a 360°
degree support and to share our passion
with you. In Back to Basics, we reveal the
Anatomy of a Cosmetic (page 16) and
the fundamental science behind many of
the skincare products at CRB. On page
22, we celebrate the pioneering women
who shaped the Beauty industry, and
we use this occasion to pay tribute to
CRB’s founder, Doctor Nadja Avalle, who
launched the company 30 years ago. We’ve
also added an Asia focus section, edited by
our Asian sales team, to give you precious
and relevant insights into the skincare
market of the future.
Enjoy this second issue!
Simone Gibertoni, General Manager
[email protected]
TABLE OF CONTENT
ISSUE N°2
CONTENTS
4
Interview Valmont
Swiss Prestige discussed with Sophie Vann-Guillon
6
Beauty Spotlight
Peel, peel, peel for flawless skin!
8
Breakthrough Science
Game changer: The new youth preserver
14
10
Marketing
Beauty made in Switzerland; a label of quality and
a business strategy for many brands
The power of
beauty oils
12
Out of the Lab
Swiss Snow Algae, the purity of the Swiss Alps in a jar
14
Trends in a blink
Beautifying oils; putting a stop to misconceived ideas
4
16
Interview of Valmont’s
business visions
Back to Basics
Anatomy of a cosmetic
20
Focus on Asia
Beauty Routines under the lens
22
The Knowledge box
The pioneer women who shaped the beauty industry
6
New season, new skin! The
exfoliating guide
3 CRB
INTERVIEW VALMONT
SWISS PRESTIGE
WITH VALMONT
Recognised across the world for their Swiss
excellence, Valmont has managed to attune the
brand’s heritage with modernity; we sit to discuss
the brand’s strategies with Sophie Vann-Guillon,
General Director at Valmont.
4
INTERVIEW VALMONT
Valmont
Valmont is a family owned business, driven by
Didier Guillon and Sophie Vann-Guillon. The
history of Valmont began with the construction
of the first Clinic in Switzerland dedicated to
health and wellness. Built in 1905 above Lake
Geneva, in Montreux, it offers prestigious
treatments and tailored care. Building on their
clinical expertise, Valmont began to launch an
exclusive range of skin care products, which
followed with the creation in 1985 of the
Valmont cosmetic brand.
1) What are women looking for in terms of shopping
experience nowadays? How is Valmont evolving with it?
Women have always looked for immediate, long lasting and
visible results in the skincare products they purchase. But when
“At Valmont, the consumer is considered
as the respected decision maker, not a
random customer”
4) What’s the hardest business decision you have had to make?
they spend a consequential sum of money, it is not only the
We had to give up on a clinical study that showed the efficacy
visible results that count; the whole shopping experience from
of an anti-cellulite serum. The use of MRI on a healthy body
the first step into the brand’s universe must reflect the sense of
required submission to the Ministry of Health in France. This
luxurious indulgence that customers are seeking.
resulted in a rise in costs, beyond the budget; just too high to go
2) What is most challenging at the moment in prestige beauty
and which tools do you use to face these challenges?
Competition is growing ever fiercer, boosted by strong
Marketing support. We, as a family owned business, can hardly
compete in the same field. Our best tool in such a situation is
through with the project.
5) Having made your mark in Switzerland as the top
luxury skincare specialists, why do you think the “Made in
Switzerland” label is becoming increasingly recognised in the
Cosmetic Industry, especially in Asia?
to remain a reference when it comes to highly concentrated
Switzerland has the best reputation for seriousness, stability
products and consistent efficacy. Indeed, women come to our
and consistency and has always lived up to these standards. The
brand when they seek seriousness, efficacy and long lasting
“Made in Switzerland” label is reputed for its quality across the
healthy skin. We therefore rely on long term credibility and
globe in various sectors, so it is indeed a reputation for efficacy
work strongly on creating - and maintaining- a real partnership
that many other brands wish to use too.
with the consumer. At Valmont, she is considered the respected
decision maker, not a random customer.
6) Do you have a vision of what Valmont will be
in the next 10 years?
3) How do you keep track of the trends in
the upcoming markets?
Valmont has shown a lot of dynamism over the last 15 years and
has managed to remain a reference in Swiss cosmetics. We wish
We do not follow the flow. The key factor for us is concentrating
to focus on this strong positioning and maintain this timeless
on the structure of the skin and targeting our efforts on
quality, just as for instance, Patek Philippe in the world of
biological analysis to keep a step ahead in order to provide
watches. Indeed, there’s no need to follow trends, and similarly
the best, whilst respecting the mechanism of the skin. Our
to Swiss watches, we will focus on our savoir-faire on skin
marketing strategy is simply based on the satisfaction of the user
biology and keep updated with changes in social habits and the
discoveries in genetics.
who repeats
who
re
the purchase to show her contentment.
CRB Magazine issue N°2
5
BEAUTY SPOTLIGHT
Summer
Skin
Weather changes can cause
havoc upon the skin, and the
arrival of a new season is the
perfect time to reassess the
beauty regime. Beauty rituals
should be adapted to the skin’s
constantly developing needs,
which shift depending on the
sun level and the exposure to
external aggressors. Spotlight
on how to embrace Summer
with soft, smooth skin.
...............................
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BEAUTY SPOTLIGHT
Peel,
peel,
peel!
New season, new
skin!
Exfoliating dead cells is vital for
stimulating the rise of fresh, young and vibrant
new skin cells and enabling skincare products to
penetrate much better by removing the layer of
obstacle. However, dead cells are not an enemy
one must eradicate, as they do serve a purpose;
they shield the complexion from environmental
pollutants and bacteria. This means one should
not exfoliate more than once a week and people
with oily skin should exfoliate more often than
those with drier skin. To get summer ready
skin, there are many ways to exfoliate which
convey different effects and benefits.
Physical exfoliation
Physical exfoliation is the most
common way to exfoliate. Usually
composed of small “scrubbing”
particles, these exfoliating
products are massaged manually
onto the skin and break up
the keratinised protein, which
accumulates on the skin’s surface,
lifting and whisking away dry, dull
cells to reveal softer, newer skin
below. Products and techniques
for physical exfoliation include
the use of a scrub, a gommage
and an exfoliation device
based on a technology such as
microdermabrasion, ultrasound,
brushes and dermaplaning.
Flawless, Daily Polish
Refining Cleanser
n
Enzymatic exfoliatio
Enzymes are excellent for all skin
types. They are especially useful when
used to target acne, dry, sensitive skin,
or as a complement to chemical peels.
Enzymes do not rub the skin like
mechanical exfoliation methods, nor
do they loosen dead cells from skin
surface like chemical peels.
Technically, enzymes
accelerate the natural
exfoliating process of the
skin by gently eating away
at the keratinised protein
layer which forms a mask
of aged cell.
Flawless, Tri-Performance Resurfacingg Peel
Acid exfoliation
Otherwise called chemical peels,
acids can offer the most powerful
nonsurgical improvements to the
skin. These exfoliating products
rely on familiar ingredients such
as Glycolic, Lactic or Salicylic
acids. These formulas do not only
exfoliate, they can also affect the
skin on a cellular level by evening
out the pigmentation distribution
in the process. Some chemical
formulations can even
produce effects similar
to what can be achieved
with lasers.
Flawless,
Dailyy ExfoPads
CRB Magazine issue N°2
7
BREAKTHROUGH SCIENCE
THE
YOUTH
PRESERVER
The apparition of wrinkles and signs of premature ageing can
be a dreadful nightmare. But the fight against lines has never
been so efficient with new active-packed formulas that provide
a youthful complexion at any age. Operation zero wrinkles
kicks-off with the introduction of a new blend of peptides.
By Vitalab™
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BREAKTHROUGH SCIENCE
s
ince the early ‘70s, Professor
Maarten Chrispeels, (Emeritus
Professor of Biology at UCSD
and co-founder of Arterra
Bioscience) conducted studies
on plant cell wall membrane glycoproteins
and their enhanced expression in
response to tissue damage. As a result,
Prof. Chrispeels discovered that cell wall
integral glycoproteins are very important
in the perception of external stimuli and
downstream activation of cellular signalling
pathways. Taking advantage of the extensive
knowledge developed in over 40 years of
research on cell wall glycoproteins, Arterra
Bioscience developed a suitable method
for the extraction, the purification and the
processing of glycoprotein from plant cell
wall to obtain a mixture of small peptides,
rich in glycine, proline and hydroxyproline,
and sugars. The obtained mixture, initially
named “peptide signalling complex” was
tested on plants and on skin cells submitted
to different types of environmental stresses.
In both biological systems, the “peptide
signalling complex” was able to enhance
the internal defence response inducing an
innate resistance to stresses. The results
were then published in the Journal of
Biotechnology and the whole process was
protected by a worldwide patent.
At the very origin of the skin’s youth one
finds the genes. These molecules, when
given a boost, rejuvenate the skin and help
prevent premature ageing by stimulating
the production of youth proteins. And
that’s when the Peptides come in. They
consist of short chains of amino acids that
act as messengers. For example, instructing
cells to increase collagen production - an
extracellular matrix protein responsible for
the skin’s elasticity. Environmental factors
such as oxidative stress, UV and pollution
cause DNA damages that lead to premature
cellular ageing, resulting in wrinkles,
sagging and dull-looking skin. Many of
these visible signs of ageing are related to
the collapse of collagen and other proteins
present in the extracellular matrix of the
dermis. To fight these signs of premature
ageing, the scientists at Vitalab™ discovered
BioNymph Peptide, a “peptide signalling
complex” obtained from N. sylvestris cell
wall glycoproteins.
N. sylvestris, known as flowering tobacco,
belongs to the Solanaceae family. In
Victorian gardens, it was planted along
walkways so walkers could enjoy the
fragrance of the flowers, and in modern
times it was given the Royal Horticultural
Society’s Award of Garden Merit.
BioNymph Peptide revealed to be an
excellent “biostimulator” for both plant
and human cells against environmental
stresses. The chemical characterisation
of the peptides fraction indicated that
the most represented amino acids were
glycine, proline, lysine and hydroxyproline,
compounds well known for their effect of
inducing cellular defence response. Indeed,
in human skin they are able to activate
specific signalling pathways leading to
the up-regulation of anti-ageing genes,
making cells more resistant to stress
factors and stimulating the synthesis of
skin extracellular matrix components. In
Bionymph Peptide, beside the peptides,
there are also sugars, which are integral
components of the cell wall glycoproteins
and bring significant beneficial effects
in the activation of hydration and antiinflammatory genes in skin cells as well
as providing a carbon source of energy to
the cells. The innate variety of these active
components results in a natural library of
protective compounds, an excellent example
of extensive biodiversity.
Tests have showed that the walls of the plant
cells are particularly rich in glycoproteins
and have great regenerating powers that
have been proven to have a similar effect on
human dermal cells. Skin is stimulated and
elasticity of the epidermis is regained which
measurably reduces wrinkles and improves
skin smoothness. Additionally, BioNymph
Peptide boosts cellular respiration to give
skin cells high energy levels and boosts
collagen synthesis to re-plump the skin for a
youthful look.
BioNymph also contains strong shielding
properties that protect from free radical
damages and helps preserve the skin
genome’s integrity, meaning it reduces
advanced signs of ageing, including wrinkles
and roughness for an ultimate 360° age
prevention effect. Operation zero wrinkles
may begin.
DID YOU KNOW?
Nicotiana sylvestris plant, or
commonly named tobacco flower
Plant stem cells are un-programmed cells that have the ability to develop into various
types of cells that can repair and replace damaged cells by dividing almost limitlessly
and so have great potential. When they divide, the new cells can either remain stem
cells or become specialised cells in a process called differentiation. As our skin faces
its daily assaults, we tire the epidermal stem cells, resulting in an excess of damaged
cells, which, eventually, ages and damages the skin. Scientists culture stem cells by
taking viable tissue from a source plant and cutting a small chip from it. In order to
heal itself, the plant generates new cells, called the callus, to form on the surface of
the wound. This methods has several advantages, such as being absent of pesticides
and harmful substances, it is eco-sustainable and reproductive conditions aren’t
influenced by temperature or seasons.
CRB Magazine issue N°2
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MARKETING
Made in Switzerland
How much are the words “Made in
Switzerland” worth in a competitive and
globalised market where consumers are
increasingly vigilant about the provenance
of every product they purchase?........ .........
............................................................
10
MARKETING
S
mall in size, yet grand in recognition,
excellent reputation too. Producing many innovative
Switzerland is a country with a surprisingly
and highly sophisticated Craft & Trade products,
important global presence despite its lack of
the Swiss cosmetics industry offers a wide range of
natural resources. Over the years Switzerland
expertise. Traditionally investing heavily in Research &
has earned a reputation for high-quality
Development the industry focuses largely on producing
products and services. One immediately thinks of
cosmetics tailored to specific needs, harnessing its
quality luxury watches, premium pharmaceutical
healthy, well ordered and reliable reputation.
products and precision machinery. The “Swiss made”
label is synonymous with value and even an exclusivity
for which consumers are prepared to pay a premium.
What puts the Swiss in a
“Swiss Made” product?
‘Swiss made’ label under review
But this reputation has grown to the point where
Switzerland must now protect itself from foreign
products purporting, as a Marketing tool, to be
“Swiss Made”. Consequently, the criteria for using the
The fundamental values of the Swiss Made label have
Swiss cross or a “Made in Switzerland” designation
been deliberately built as the country’s marketing tool.
(designations of Swiss origin) is currently under review
With few natural resources and little exportation, the
to create a new, stricter legislation to regulate the use
Swiss have built a reputation on
a high level of expertise across
their
key
industries.
Indeed,
Switzerland has maintained a high
standard of all-around quality that
has withstood the test of time.
of the label for foods, services
“The fundamental values of
the Swiss Made label have
been deliberately built as the
country’s marketing tool”
and
industrial
products.
For
industrial goods, 60% of the total
production costs must be realised
in Switzerland, including costs
linked to R&D, quality control
The Swiss are also brand-lovers and brand-creators.
or certification, as well as costs linked to packaging,
Strong branding is the premium option in a saturated
marketing and transport. “Swiss made” is more than a
market, and the reputation that Switzerland has earned
simple label of origin. It is before anything the sign to
promotes its brands, making them fiercely competitive.
customers that they are buying a product of legitimate
Swissness inside the jar
quality and reliability. And today, more than ever,
provenance and value are key to premium.
As well as being a leader in the banking and watchmaking sector, Switzerland is amongst the world’s
leading producers of chemicals and pharmaceuticals.
Indeed, with modern production facilities, the use of
premium ingredients under strict hygiene and safety
rules and the extensive research it undertakes, it has
earned credibility and the industry’s high acclaim.
Based on this heritage, the cosmetic industry enjoys an
CRB Magazine issue N°2
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OUT OF THE LAB
Swiss
Winter Fusion
Can one complex from the swiss
Alps freeze the ageing process of
the skin? Yes, with the new CRB
Swiss Snow Algae line.
There is something quite daunting yet fascinating about
the immaculacy and the purity of the Swiss Alps. The
wildness of the ice canvas and the harsh yet romantic
landscapes have the power to touch the onlooker time and
time again. But, beyond the rich beauty and untouched
splendour, the Swiss mountains encompass something
greater that people have sought for centuries. The preciousness lies in its air. Devoid of all impair, it comprises
the healing properties of the natural elements found at ten
degrees below zero.
Inspired by these Helvetic virtues, we unlocked the powerful effects of the rare purity of the mountains in one crystal
complex. The line is a fusion of powerful biotechnological
ingredients harnessing the Winter Daphne, the Edelweiss
and the Swiss Snow Algae.
Together, these survival plants form an invincible trio to
fight premature ageing and intensely improve skin’s suppleness and elasticity. The Winter Daphne stem cell extract
encourages wound healing through its strong anti-inflammatory and cell detoxification properties, which enables
the skin to restore itself. The Edelweiss flower, though
fragile at first glance, is a relentless and powerful plant with
antioxidant and DNA protective properties that strengthen
the skin’s structure and shield against strong UV rays. Snow
Algae reinforce these effects by protecting the skin from the
environment and time itself. These fragile plants have each
developed schemes to outwit the harsh mountains. Their
heritage is saved in the Swiss Snow Algae line.
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OUT OF THE LAB
POT OF SNOW
DAY PROTECTOR
The cream mask reminds
us of snow with its fluffy,
airy textured cream. It’s a
quick “pick-me-up” mask
treatment that works
wonders when applied in
a thick layer and left to
rest for 15 minutes.
With an SPF 15, the
Swiss Snow Algae Day
cream delays skin ageing
and protects skin from
environmental damages
and UVA’s. Apply before
going to ski for perfect
SWISS SNOW
algae
YOUTH GUARDIAN
The Botanical Eye Contour
Treatment Complex dramatically
reduces dark circles and puffiness
around the eyes. It helps improve
blood microcirculation, boosts
collagen production and fights
free radicals, whilst preventing
UV damage.
SKIN BOOSTER
This serum rejuvenates and
protects skin at a cellular level
to turn back the clock. It fights
against the age-induced decrease
in collagen production. Fine
lines visibly disappear and skin
looks bright and young.
CRB Magazine issue N°2
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TRENDS IN A BLINK
Beautifying
OILS
Beauty oils are on trend
this season, becoming the
new IT products to cleanse,
nourish or tone the skin.
Some are like fine fairy dew
that disappear instantly
into the skin. Others have a
thicker consistency, similar
to a rich and luxurious
elixir. However, one element
they do have in common
is their nourishing and
healing properties. Thanks
to wonderful actives from
nature, such as fatty acids
and omegas 3, 6 and 9, these
oils reboost the hydrolipidic
layer of the skin and
stabilise the natural
production of oil.
Despite these super
powers, oils still suffer from
preconceived ideas of pore
clogging and acne inducing.
To put an end to this
injustice, our team experts
break down the myths.
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TRENDS IN A BLINK
Just a few drops away
from a perfect complexion ...
Super hero corrector
Oils also work as an all-round fixer to attenuates scars,
hyperpigmentation, dry patches and inflammations. The high
concentration of oleic acid – an essential fatty acid the body
produces naturally – that is found in some oils, such as marula
and rose hip seed oils, has healing properties that restore balance
to problematic skin. Botanical plant oils can also contain Vitamin
A, ideal to help treat skin prone to acne.
Turn back the clock
Containing high levels of vitamin E and fatty acids, argan,
avocado and hazelnut oils improve the skin’s elasticity and fight
against the free radicals responsible for the premature ageing.
Oils work as a brilliant anti-ageing artillery to plump, quench and
brighten the complexion, thanks to their lipophilic properties
that sink deep to repair the moisture barrier – which breaks down
with age – and help prevent the skin’s natural oil decrease, hence
the plumping and soothing effect.
Breakout fighter
Despite the myth, face oils work wonders on oily skin. They
might come across as a really bad idea for already shiny, greasy
complexions, but they are a great natural alternative to acne
treatments. Indeed, oils help regulate the natural oil production
and actually help unclog pores, whilst grapeseed or tea-tree oils
are packed with antioxidants and skin-brightening vitamin C that
eliminate pore-clogging sebum.
All-in-one miracle wonder
Washing the skin with cleansing oil is one of the most delicate and effective ways to remove impurities and make-up. As
cleansers, oils remove the sebum that collects in our pores, but
unlike chemical-laden cleansers, they do not strip the skin of its
natural oils. Indeed, when you remove the natural oil, the skin
tries to repair itself, overcompensating for the lack of moisture
by producing additional oil, which may lead to acne problems.
Cleansing with oil does not only work as a great impurity eraser.
Its healing properties also restore balance to problematic skin
and its humectant function helps the skin retain
reta
tain
in moisture.
moistur
CRB Magazine issue N°2
15
Anatomy of a Cosmetic
To understand how skincare products achieve wonders on
the skin, it is essential to master the basics of a cosmetic!
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BACK TO BASICS
In cosmetics
emulsions are
the most common type of delivery
system as they enable a wide range of
ingredients to be quickly and efficiently
released onto the skin. To understand
how skincare products achieve wonders
on the skin, it is essential to master the
basics of a cosmetic!
,
The problem: “Water, oil loves you not”
The basic rule of thumb follows as such: When one mixes two
liquids, such as water and alcohol, a solution is formed. Indeed,
the droplets of both liquids mingle with each other to create one
miscible liquid. However, when it comes to oil and water, the
two liquids create a boundary between each other and remain
as two separate layers because their droplets are not attracted to
one another and therefore do not wish to mingle. This difficult
relationship is due to the forces between the water particles being
very strong. Thus, the oil particles cannot squeeze through the
water as they cannot overcome the strong attraction between
the water particles. In order to create an emulsion that remains
stable for long enough using water and oil, one must overcome
the interfacial tension between the two phases by using a mixing
process. However, even mixing at a very high level is not enough to
provide long term stability, this is why emulsifiers are required to
stabilise the droplets of the dispersed phase.
The Emulsifier; blends the un-blendable!
An emulsion is a two phase system which blends together oil and
water as one substance, hence forcing them to mix. Indeed, to
prevent the water and oil from creating a clear barrier, one uses
emulsifying agents that act as a chemical binder between the two
liquids. This chemical reaction happens because the emulsifiers
are molecules consisting of one “water loving” part – hydrophilic
– and one “water hating” but “oil loving”– lipophilic – part. The
lipophilic part of the emulsifier links the oil drops with the water
phase which is attached to the hydrophilic part of the emulsifier.
This shielding prevents the oil particles from reuniting, and results
in a stable emulsion. >
CRB Magazine issue N°2
17
BACK TO BASICS
While water and oils are transparent,
emulsions are usually opaque and may
be designed to have a lustrous, pearlised
appearance. While water and oil are thin
free flowing liquids, emulsions can be
made as thick creams which do not flow.
They provide greater benefits than onephase formulas as the combination of
the water and oil phase enables a better
delivery of a wide variety of ingredients to
the skin. Emulsions have been used for
centuries as they are based on a simple
natural phenomenon. For instance, the
ancient Egyptians used eggs to emulsify
berry extracts with oils in order to create
emulsified paints. Another form of
emulsion, the cold cream, was invented
by Galen, a prominent Greek physician,
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surgeon and philosopher in the Roman
as binders, plant extracts and emollients.
Empire. Galen’s cold cream was based on
One may also add pigments and dyes to
beeswax and water, also containing olive
the emulsion to impart a colour, making
oil and rose petals for softness and scent.
it a coloured emulsion. As a standard rule,
The first commercial stable water-in-oil
it is not the ratio of water to oil or vice
emulsion was Nivea cream, launched by
versa that determines the type of emulsion.
Beiersdorf around 1910. Lanolin was the
Indeed, the amount of oil and water is often
emulsifier and the formulation of Nivea
similar whether you have an O/W or a
cream has barely changed
W/O. In many cases, water is approximately
over the years.-----
60-80% of the formula, and this percentage
5 types of emulsions
will simply influence the final texture. For
instance, with 10-25% of oil in water, the
exist, the primary ones being water-
texture can be similar to a milk cleanser,
in-oil (W/O) and oil-in-water (O/W)
whereas 25-50% of oil in water will create
emulsions. Both types are used for many
a moisturising cream. So what determines
of the cosmetic products one uses daily. In
whether you have an O/W or a W/O
addition to the emulsifier, which links the
emulsion? Here are the 5 main categories
oil droplets to hold them in suspension,
and how these emulsions are obtained. >
dd many oth
ther iingredients
ngredi
dientts such
h
one may add
other
------------------------------------------------
BACK TO BASICS
Oil-in-Water
l-in-W
Water (O/W)
1Oil
This is thee m
most
ost com
common
mmo
on type of emulsion. Understandably, it
co
consists
off d
ispersingg oil
il in wa
dispersing
water. This method would be chosen
fo products
for
producctss that require
req
quirre a small
sma amount of fatty materials, such
as moistur
as
rissin
i g or sh
having
ng crea
moisturising
shaving
creams, because the texture will remain
4 Multiple emulsions
In addition to the two phase emulsions, it is possible to create a
llight
ight and n
on-greasyy as tthe
he oil is captured in the water. Making
non-greasy
multiple phase of Oil-in-Water-in-Oil (O/W/O) or Water-in-Oil-
O/W
O
/W emulsions
emu
em
ulsi
lsion
on
ns is the
tth
he easiest
eeas
assie
iest
st p
process as one usually only adds the
in-Water (W/O/W) emulsions. Multiple emulsions are a complex
o
il to
il
o tthe
he w
ater
at
er,, wi
er
with
th the
the emulsifi
emu
muls
ls ers, and then heats both liquids
oil
water,
system that may be described as emulsions of emulsions. Indeed,
aatt 6600--80
80°C
°C
C. In o
rder
rd
er tto
o st
stro
rong
ngly
ly hold the formula together, one
60-80°C.
order
strongly
in this type of emulsion, the drops of the dispersed phase contain
m
ay ge
ay
ggelify
eli
lify
fyy tthe
hee w
ater
at
er,, le
lead
adin
ingg to a gel emulsion. -may
water,
leading
even smaller dispersed drops and the internal and external
------------------ ---------------------------------
Water-in-Oil
ater-iin--O (W/O)
2W
phases are alike, separated by an intermediate phase. An O/W/O
This eemulsion
mulsio
on consists
consissts off wa
w
water
te droplets dispersed in oil and
external oil phase. In other words, O/W/O is a system in which
is o
obt
bttaaiine
ned
d th
thro
ro
oug
ugh
h a pr
proc
occes
e s tthat only depends on the type of
is
obtained
through
process
water droplets containing oil are surrounded by an oil phase. In
emul
mulsi
sifierr u
use
sed
d in
i the
the formula.
ffor
ormu
mula
la Such creams are very emollient
emulsifi
used
W/O/W systems, oil separates the internal and external aqueous
and minimise
minim
misee the wa
ater loss
lo
oss of the epidermis. They tend to have
and
water
phases. In other words, W/O/W is a system in which oil droplets
an oi
ily, heavy
heeavyy feel to them so aare preferred for sunscreens as they
an
oily,
enclosing water droplets are surrounded by an aqueous phase.
solu
ubilise bette
ter filters
lterrs and
d are water-resistant. Formulating Watersolubilise
better
These systems are more complicated than the O/W or W/O
in--Oil is far
faar more
mo diffi
fficult than Oil-in-Water formulas. Indeed,
in-Oil
emulsions, but bring important advantages for cosmetics products
the process
processs req
quires slowlyy add
the
requires
adding the water into the oil phase
as they enable slow release of sensitive actives, in the case where
(containing the emulsifier) while stirring the liquid continuously.
the very internal and very external phases are different, such as
Moreover, W/O emulsions can be tricky and restraining. Many
when active ingredients are incorporated in the internal water
emulsifiers cannot be used in this formula as they are prone to
phase and not the external water phase............................................
emulsion is an aqueous phase which separates the internal and
destabilise the emulsion. ------------
3 Silicone emulsions (W/Si)
5 Lamellar emulsions
This particular emulsions is similar to the multiple emulsion of
Depending on structure, silicones can be used as wetting agents,
a Water-in-Oil-in-Water phase, however its structure is more
for foaming or defoaming applications and as lubricants. They
advanced. Indeed, this multiple lamellar emulsion is structured in
are important ingredients in body care, face care and cosmetic
layers that link the emulsifiers amongst the water and oil, creating
products. With the appropriate surfactant(s), silicones can be
layers distinctive to the human’s skin. Because this layered emulsion
formulated into emulsions of a variety of types including W/O,
perfectly mimics the skin’s natural lipid structure (i.e. the stratum
O/W, O/W/O, W/O/W, etc. Water-in-Silicone emulsions are
corneum), it offers a long-lasting skin moisturizing effects as it
used in skin care products because they improve spreadability
reinforces the skin’s natural barrier function. The texture it delivers
and, more importantly, because they are aesthetically attractive:
is non-sticky, allowing for a quick absorption after application........
they impart a smooth and silky feel and reduce greasiness.
Additionally, thanks to their lower heat of evaporation, they
do not seem “cool,” as do alcohols for instance, and possess an
attr
trac
acti
tive “feel”
feel on the skin....
attractive
CRB Magazine issue N°2
19
FOCUS ON ASIA
ASIAN BEAUTY
ROUTINE
LAYER BY LAYER
Skincare layering is an art with many different possibilities and
rules, but the Asian beauty routine is the most rigorous of all.
North Americans and Europeans usually stick to a cleanser and
moisturiser on a daily basis, whereas in Asia, taking care of one’s
skin is an important ritual that is as much a part of one’s personal
wellbeing as that of the pursuit for eternal youth.
1
Double Cleansing
The first step of the double cleansing
involves using oil in order to rid the
face of make-up and impurities. Some
cleansing oils specifically target antiageing, which means the make-up
removing step cleanses, nourishes and
repairs the skin all in one. The next step is
using a foam cleanser to remove anything
the oil might have left behind and also
prepares the skin for toning. Soothing
cleansing creams or milks would be
preferred for dry or sensitive skin.
20
CRB Magazine issue N
N°2
°2
2
Toner/ Skin Softening Lotion
In Asian skincare, the skin softening lotions
replace Western toners. Indeed, whilst Western
toners are designed to provide additional
cleansing and restore the skin to its natural state,
Asian softening lotions prepare and condition
the skin, leaving the top layer soft and ready for a
better penetration of further products.
3
Sheet Mask
Being one of the lengthiest steps in the skincare
routine, sheet masks are usually kept for night
time use and are not used on a daily basis.
Sheet masks are thin cotton sheets soaked in a
treatment essence designed to focus on many
concerns, varying from dryness to whitening
effects. These are very popular skincare
products in Asia and mayy replace
the essence/
p
p
serum step.
FOCUS ON ASIA
4
6
Eye Cream
The eye cream is always applied before any other
steps. As the skin is the thinnest and most sensitive
around this area, the cream must be patted around
the eye starting from the inner corner to the temples
with the ring finger (the weakest finger).
5
Serum/ Essence
Essence is the equivalent of a serum in the Asian
beauty routine. It is a concentrated gel or liquid
packed with skincare actives and is usually lighter in
texture than Western serums. It builds upon the skin
and works to soften and brighten the complexion.
Spot Treatment
Because of the pollution and climate, Asian skin
tends to be oily, particularly in the T-zone area,
therefore spot treatment is applied before the final
moisturising cream. However, this step could also be
replaced by many other things, such as a whitening
serum, wrinkle filler or a dark spot eraser. This step
is always applied after serum.
7
Emulsion
Emulsions are similar to the essence and serum but offer
a lighter version with less concentrated actives. They are
designed to work as a moisturising treatment, and would
replace face creams for oily skins. It simply provides an extra
layer of moisture before applying a richer cream.
8
Moisturising Cream
The moisturising step is optional as it is simply
an additional moisturiser, after the emulsion.
However, people with dry skin would apply a
thicker moisturising cream in the morning. Asian
women pay extra attention to protecting their skin
from UV damages so the cream would be SPF and
applied thoroughly every morning.
CRB Magazine issue N°2
21
THE KNOWLEDGE BOX
EMPIRE STATE
OF BEAUTY
They led the way in terms of
innovation and shook society’s rules;
Rubinstein, Chanel and Lauder
are some of the few incredible and
legendary women who shaped the
cosmetic industry as we know it today.
22
THE KNOWLEDGE BOX
T
he pursuit of beauty is by no means a modern
phenomenon. The cosmetic business has been around
since the Pharaohs, evolving and undergoing many
changes across time and civilisations. Throughout
history, women and men have enhanced their features
with cosmetics. However, beauty has always come with
a price, and in early days, cosmetics were only available
to the privileged, wealthy upper class who indulged in
pastes and face creams, often composed of poisonous
ingredients, such as arsenic to whiten the complexion,
or unappealing crocodile excrements for anti-wrinkle
creams. Late Victorian era moved into new social
norms and traditional culture saw make-up as an
undignified custom which was related to prostitutes
and actresses. Therefore, cosmetics were restricted to
skin care and excluded any form of decorative product
such as rouge or lipstick. These were considered
to be “paint” and unsuitable for polite society.
Creams and “pampering” remained however very
popular.
........................................................................
One of the first entrepreneurs to have a successful
career in the beauty industry was Harriet Hubbard
Ayer, a beautiful high society woman. At a time when
most women did not work, she founded the Recamier
Manufacturing Company in 1886 in order to fend for
her daughters and herself following a divorce that left
her almost destitute. Ayer was a smart, perseverant
woman whose marketing and business skills led her
company to soon become a flourishing business that
earned her big money. She was a pioneer in the way
she advertised in newspapers and paid celebrities to
associate their image to her product. She also gave
credibility to her formulas by enlisting “reputable
Harriet Hubbard Ayer
“ There are no ugly women, just
lazy ones ” Helena Rubinstein
scientists” to attest quality and safety. She
produced, marketed and sold products of toiletry
rather than cosmetics and opened the way to
other women to succeed in the beauty industry.
Following these steps, Helena Rubinstein, born in
Poland Chaja Rubinstein, also clawed her way out
of poverty through similar tenacity and perspicuity.
Helena Rubinstein
After
rejecting
an
arranged marriage in
Poland, she moved to
Australia to distribute
home-made creams that
her mother used from
a Hungarian chemist.
She produced her first
pot of cream in 1899,
composed of “secret
ingredients” which she
sold at a very high price.
Her
small
skincare
business flourished so
fast that within five
years she moved to
London to open a beauty
Salon, selling cosmetics
to enhance women’s
natural beauty through
massages and creams. It
is mainly her advertising savvy that earned her such
a huge success, understanding clearly what women
wanted and how to sell it to them, cunningly saying
“Women won’t buy anything cheap. They need to
have the impression they’re treating themselves
to something exceptional.” She concentrated on
scientific research and promoted this image by posing
in lab coats for her adverts. Rubinstein was a fierce
and visionary woman who changed the make-up
culture by persuading her wealthy friends to apply
rouge on cheeks and lips in order to appear younger
and to dust noses with pastel powders. The trend
kicked off immediately, and in 1909 she launched her
make-up range, which became an instant hit amongst
society ladies, thus soon after becoming mainstream.
Following this success, she moved to America in
1914 which is where she met her life time rival;
Elizabeth Arden. Both Rubinstein and Arden were
bold business women and social climbers who may be
considered as the first self-made female millionaires.
Just like Rubinstein, Elizabeth Arden - born
Florence Nightingale Graham - came from a poor
background and received very little education.
But from early on, Arden was a visionary.
CRB Magazine issue N°2
23
Coco Chanel
THE KNOWLEDGE BOX
She undertook nursing for a short period of time, and
observed that burn creams and skin salves could have
the potential to be beauty creams and lotions. She
experimented with various ingredients, turning her
kitchen into a laboratory, relentlessly searching for
the perfect beauty cream. However, she undertook
many small jobs before actually turning to the beauty
business by buying over the Elizabeth Hubard beauty
salon in 1909. Inspired by her favourite poem by
Alfred Tennyson, “Enoch Arden”, she changed the
salon’s name to Elizabeth Arden - and adopted this
name as her own. It is her nurse’s training that gave
her the knowledge to create scientifically based
skin care products to which she added graceful
floral scents to hide the medical aromas. She
favoured pink and gold for her elegant packaging
and opened luxurious treatment and beauty salons.
The beauty trends and customs of the time were
very medical orientated and austere. They lacked
the glamour and luxury of Arden’s products which
made her marketing strategy
a pioneering one. She also
understood the concept of the
perceived value of overpricing
and the promotion of science.
Her feminine and polished
aesthetics became the epitome
of high prestige across America,
and in 1915, Arden’s brand
was distributed worldwide.
Elizabeth Arden
She opened the way for many
beauty products that are now
basics, such as travel-sized
items. She was the first to offer
in-store makeovers to teach
women how to apply makeup, pioneering the concept
of coordinating colours of
eye, lip and facial make-up.
Arden targeted middle aged women and promised
them youth and beauty through her exclusive
treatments and products. Her message to all women
always remained “Hold fast to life and youth”
and upon this motto, her company managed to
flourish during the Great Depression during the
1930’s, earning over $4 million a year.
Elizabeth Arden and her rival of the time, Helena
Rubinstein, were largely responsible for establishing
make-up as proper and necessary for a ladylike image.
“ Repetition makes
reputation and reputation makes
customers ” Elizabeth Arden
24
CRB Magazine issue N
N°2
°2
“Nature gives you the face you have
at twenty; it is up to you to merit the
face you have at fifty” Coco Chanel
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Less recognised for her cosmetics legacy, Gabrielle
“Coco” Chanel remains one of the pioneer ladies in
terms of avant-gardism and beauty. Aside from her
hugely successful ready-to-wear collections that
changed society and history for ever, she was the first
to introduce perfume and skin care to her couture
house. In beauty terms, it all started with the Chanel
N°5 - the best-selling fragrance in the world up to
date. In 1921, at the peak of her reign, she launched
the perfume created with Russian perfumer to the
Tsars, Ernest Beaux. The name for Chanel’s first
fragrance is said to come from her superstitious belief
in the virtues of the number five and so she picked
the fifth sample presented to her by Beaux. It was a
huge hit and enabled Chanel to live off the fragrance’s
royalties during her retirement. Chanel N°5 was then
established as the leading scent in the world, which
encouraged the business savvy Coco to expand and go
global. She launched her cosmetics line in 1924, closely
followed by a range of skincare products in 1929.
Twenty or so years onwards, in 1946, Joseph Lauder
and his wife Estée Lauder - born Josephine Esther
Mentzer - began producing cosmetics in New York
City and launched the Estée Lauder Company.
Despite limited funds in these early years, the
Lauders sought a highly prestigious positioning
for their products. While their business strategy
demanded that their small budget be allocated
to highly innovative research, the Lauder’s created
prestige in exclusivity; making their products
available in only the finest department stores in the
United States. Another smart marketing move was to
include sampling so that customers could experience
THE KNOWLEDGE BOX
Estée Lauder
the expensive product before actually buying. Indeed,
advertising agencies were turning them down because
of the small size of their account, so the Lauders
invested their entire $50,000 advertising budget in
samples to be offered as charity giveaways and as gifts
with purchases. This would become their trademark
and a standard practice in the industry. ..........................
Estée Lauder’s impeccable style and taste translated
in her products, offering make-up and skin care with
subtle sophistication and soft, feminine colour palettes.
She advocated a restraint in application of cosmetics
for an effect she named the “Estée Lauder’s soft magic”.
It was her belief that every woman could be beautiful
and that class and status was attainable through
the appropriate use of make-up and fragrance that
attracted so many consumers and made her a brilliant
salesperson. Two years after the product launch, the
lauders were already distributing in Saks Fifth Avenue
and were about to launch their revolutionary YouthDew; a bath oil that was simultaneously a perfume. .....
....................................
achievements. She studied chemistry in Italy at the
University of Milan where she earnerd her doctorate
and became enchanted with raw materials and
formulas. Soon after, in 1953, she moved to Switzerland
to begin her career in the world of cosmetics and
beauty. Avalle had an instinctive understanding of
women’s needs and strove for invention and fantasy in
the cosmetics she created. She had a strong, eccentric
personality, but unlike the fierce, business women in
the industry before her, Avalle was not interested in the
marketing side of the business. Indeed, she was driven
by her passion for beauty and research, and success and
fortune were of little importance to her. -.......................
............................
In 1972, her remarkable flair for cosmetics, always
combining nature and technology, led her to create,
together with her son Dario Ferrari, the company
“lntercos” in Italy. Intercos specialised in colour
cosmetics and make-up and has since become a
worldwide leader in this sector. Avalle was also a
committed woman and an active member of various
cosmetic chemical societies in Switzerland, France,
Italy and Spain, and from 1979 to 1980, she was the
chairperson of IFSCC globally. ........................................
In 1983, she founded the company CRB (Centre de
Recherches Biocosmetiques), a contract manufacturer
of premium care products, in Vevey, Switzerland. The
laboratory specialises in products for skincare with
innovation being at the core of the company. In 1997,
the European Chemist Registration Board awarded her
the title European Chemist-EurChem. The fairy tale
that Nadja Avalle had dreamt of as a young girl had
become a reality. -..............................................................
Nadja Avalle
“If you don’t sell, it’s not the product
that’s wrong, it’s you”Estée Lauder
The fragrance cost only $8.50, which meant it was an
affordable luxury for most women and sales went up
from a few hundred dollars a week to several thousand.
Lauder revolutionised the cosmetic industry again in
1964, by launching the very first male fragrance line,
Aramis for Men and the first line of fashion-oriented,
allergy-tested cosmetics, Clinique. They continued to
grow throughout the 80s and 90s, becoming the thirdlargest cosmetics company in America...........................
Amongst these visionary women was Nadja Avalle,
founder of CRB Cosmetics and Intercos. From the age
of ten, Avalle became fascinated by Marie Curie’s life;
the impact of the many books she read about Curie was
such that she aspired to the same fairy tale of chemistry
CRB Magazine issue N°2
25
B
CR
IN
N
TI
VA
O
O
STRAIGHT FROM THE LAB
N
Cleverly formulated, All Around Eyes Duo contains two products that will keep your
eyes looking radiant and beautiful! A cream for under the eye fights puffiness and
dark circles and a treatment for the upper eye lid firms and lifts the skin.
Tones & revitalises
Lifts & firms
Fights puffiness & dark circles
Improves luminosity & brightness
THIS POTENT DUO TREATMENT LEAVES THE EYES LOOKING FRESH,
HEALTHY AND YOUNGER!
CK
47033149 & 47033150
PI
ALL AROUND
EYE DUO
CRB
COSMETICS
DIGITAL NEWS
ISSUE N°2
Editor in
Edit
i Chief
Chi f
SIMONE GIBERTONI
General Manager CRB
[email protected]
Creative Director
Amanda Bühler, CRB
Marketing & Communication Assistant
[email protected]
Contributing Editors
Jacqueline Hill, CRB
Director Strategic Marketing & Innovation Prestige (CH)
[email protected]
Harriet Ploeger, CRB
Sales & Marketing Director EMEA
[email protected]
Gabriella Colucci, VITALAB
Chief Executive Officer
[email protected]
Aiko Angin-Ito, INTERCOS
Strategic Marketing Manager Asia - Skin Care
[email protected]
www.crbcosmetics.ch
www.intercos.com
CRB S.A Route du Verney 1, 1070 Puidoux / Switzerland
EMAIL [email protected]
+41 (0)21 946 00 00
CRB Magazine issue N°2
27
CRB
COSMETICS
GLOBAL LEADER IN HIGH PERFORMANCE SKIN CARE
MONTREUX
PARIS
MILANO
www.crbcosmetics.ch
www.intercos.com
NEW YORK
SUZHOU