ULU MUDA - WWF Malaysia

ULU MUDA
THE HIDDEN REALM
OF THE MALAYSIAN
RAINFOREST
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Figure 1 : Location Map
For a forested area of its size and significance, Ulu Muda is surprisingly unknown to
most Malaysians and the outside world in general. While it is not as famous as Taman
Negara, Belum or Endau-Rompin, Ulu Muda is nevertheless an outstanding area for
wildlife conservation and nature tourism. It was first proposed as a wildlife reserve
by Stevens in a 1968 Colombo Plan study and subsequently proposed as a national
park in the 3rd Malaysian Plan. The National Ecotourism Plan lists Ulu Muda as one of
ten special places for ecotourism while the National Physical Plan identifies it as an
Environmentally-Sensitive Area Rank I. Between the 1948 and 1989 most parts of Ulu
Muda were classified as “restricted areas” due to the communist emergency. Since the
security restrictions were removed, Ulu Muda has been gradually opened up for tourism
activities. The most significant tourism development was the establishment of resorts
along the shores of Pedu Lake in the mid-1990s.
The forests of Ulu Muda cover an area of approximately 160,000ha (about twice the
size of Perlis) located within the districts of Baling, Padang Terap and Sik in the northeastern corner of Kedah. Ulu Muda contributes about half of the forest cover of Kedah.
Wildlife surveys have shown the area to have substantial populations of large mammals,
especially elephants and tapirs, as well as a rich diversity of birds including large flocks
of the globally-threatened plain-pouched hornbill. In addition to the Ulu Muda Forest
Reserve, the area consists of a number of other forest reserves (see Table 1 below).
There are three large man-made lakes within the Ulu Muda area, namely Muda, Ahning
and Pedu, formed by the construction of three correspondingly-named dams that
regulate water for domestic use and irrigation for most of Kedah, Penang and Perlis.
Much of Ulu Muda has yet to be properly explored. A landmark scientific expedition
in 2003 organised by the Forestry Department was the first concerted effort at
investigating this hidden realm. This initial effort, although producing some impressive
results, was merely a glimpse of what lies beneath a deep well of biodiversity. The Kedah
State Government has recently expressed its intention to establish a state park at Ulu
Muda and this is widely acknowledged as the way forward for biodiversity conservation
and nature tourism at Ulu Muda.
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Map illustration adapted from A Study of Nature Tourism Development in Ulu Muda / WWF 2002
Figure 2: Geological map of the Ulu Muda area
The geology of Ulu Muda is still not
well studied and most of the available
information was obtained through remote
sensing rather than field surveys. Most of
Ulu Muda is composed of hills of above
300m with moderately high peaks. The
hills of Ulu Muda are part of the KedahSinggora Range which runs in a northsouth alignment and forms part of the
border of Kedah and Thailand.
In general, the western portion of Ulu
Muda is of lower elevation compared to
the eastern section. Low-lying plains of
less than 200m elevation occur in the
valleys of the Muda, Lasor and Bohoi rivers.
Most of the underlying rocks are
sedimentary, but with granitic intrusions,
comprising the Baling Group, the Kubang
Pasu Formation, the Semanggol Formation
and the Saiong Bed. The highest named
peak is Bukit Genting Kundor (894m) while
Gunung Batu Putih (821m) is a quartzite
outcrop surrounded by granite.
Source: Kamal Roslan & Che Aziz Ali (2005) in Shaharuddin Mohammad Ismail et al. (eds.) (2005)
The oldest geological formation is
the Baling Group which is of SilurianOrdovician origin (about 450 million years
old) while the granitic rocks date from the
late Triassic Period (about 250 million years
ago).
An exciting new
development is the recent
discovery of limestone near
the upper reaches of the
Labua River. The presence
of limestone in Ulu Muda
is a significant find as it is
possibly the only limestone
area between Baling (to
the south of Ulu Muda) and
Yala Province in Thailand
to the north and east.
Although the limestone
area does not appear to be
very extensive, it increases
the value of Ulu Muda as
a conservation area as
tropical limestone often
harbours flora and fauna that are very restricted in their range.
Entrance to cave - WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
Many limestone hills have unique species of herbaceous plants, snails and other invertebrates
such as spiders that are found on no other limestone hill, even neighbouring ones. Most limestone
hills also have caves. Rumours of caves in the Ulu Muda area have floated about for many years
but this has only recently been confirmed. Two moderately large caves have been surveyed by
Hymeir Kamarudin and Rohani Rahmani (Ronn) from the Malaysian Nature Society. The presence of
limestone caves provides the opportunity to add
caving as another exciting recreational activity for
visitors to Ulu Muda.
Tectonic activity during the late Triassic Period caused the sedimentary rocks to be uplifted from
the seabed to form land. This uplifting process was caused by the intrusion of igneous material
which later formed granitic rock in the Ulu Muda area. After land was formed, sedimentation
occurred again, but this time along the river valleys. Weathering and erosion over a long period of
time gave rise to the topography that can now be observed at Ulu Muda .
One of the most prominent geological features in the Ulu Muda area is Bukit Saiong, a distinctive
sandstone hill separating Pedu Lake from Muda Lake. The peak of Bukit Saiong can clearly be seen
from the Muda Lake. Of interest is the abundance of smooth white-coloured rocks along some of
the streams that are tributaries to the Muda River. Sadly, these rocks, known as batu lilin (wax rocks),
are now much depleted in the more accessible areas due to over-collection as a result of high
demand by rock collectors who prize them for their aesthetic values.
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Cave skylight WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
Flowstones WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
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Climate
&
Hydrology
The northern part of Peninsular
Malaysia, where Ulu Muda is located,
has two distinct seasons – a wet season
between the months of May and
October coinciding with the south-west
monsoon, and a dry season between
December and March during the northeast monsoon (which brings rain to
the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia).
There is also a short dry season in the
months of June and July. The average
annual rainfall is about 2,000mm, with
October usually the wettest month, and
another minor peak in April/May.
Hydrology
importance of
Muda
Pedu
Ahning
catchment
The Ulu Muda forest provides upstream
protection of major rivers that supply
water for domestic, industrial and
agricultural use to the people in the
northern areas of Peninsular Malaysia.
Irrigation schemes that depend on
the Ulu Muda catchment forest supply
water to the largest rice-growing state
in the country. This has earned Kedah
its nickname of the “rice-bowl” of the
Malaysia. The area under these irrigation
schemes, including the Muda irrigation
scheme, is responsible for about 40% of
the country’s total rice production and
directly benefits the livelihoods of 63,000
families.
Figure 4: Major river systems of Kedah
The Ulu Muda forest forms the
headwaters of the Muda River which is
the largest river system in Kedah. The
important tributaries of the Muda River,
upstream of the Muda dam, are Sungai
Lasor, Sungai Teliang, Sungai Bohoi,
Sungai Kawi and Sungai Kalir. The Pedu,
Ahning and Kedah are separate river
systems from the Muda River but they
also originate from the Ulu Muda area.
The largest of the three lakes in the
Ulu Muda area is the Pedu Lake which
covers an area of 15,500ha. Although
Muda Lake is smaller (5,200ha) it has
a larger catchment area and there is
a 6.6km long tunnel that channels
water from Muda Lake to Pedu Lake.
Kedah and Perlis are prone to seasonal
drought and water stress, and therefore
the Ulu Muda forest plays an important
role in regulating water flow to the
Muda River and its tributaries.
Adapted from WWF Malaysia (2002) and topography map
Carok Tera Waterfalls - WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
Kaji Cuaca island at Muda Lake - WWF - Malaysia / Ronn
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The electronics and heavy industries
sector centred at Penang Island, Seberang
Perai and Kulim in southern Kedah are
also highly dependent on the continuous
supply of clean water originating from the
Ulu Muda forest. Penang has one of the
cheapest water rates in the country and
this is one of the factors that makes it an
attractive location for investments from
multi-national companies.
Jetty at Muda Lake – WWF-Malaysia/Donovan C. Louis
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The flora of Ulu Muda is still poorly studied. Prior to the 2003 scientific expedition there had been
very few studies conducted on the plant diversity of the area. Even the intrepid botanists of the
colonial era had more or less bypassed Ulu Muda. The main primary forest types in Ulu Muda are
lowland dipterocarp forest, hill dipterocarp forest and upper hill dipterocarp forest. There are also
pockets of riparian vegetation in the floodplains of main rivers, and limestone vegetation.
The forests of Ulu Muda contain elements of Thai-Burmese flora due to their proximity to southern
Thailand. From studies carried out thus far, more than 450 species of flowering plants are known
to occur at Ulu Muda and there is no doubt that the list will grow much longer as more areas are
surveyed. The primary forest near the border with Thailand, for example, has yet to be explored
botanically and neither has the recently-discovered limestone area. Limestone flora, in particular, is
noted for its high level of endemism, with many species found on only one or a few limestone hills
and nowhere else in the world.
The diversity of non-flowering plants in Ulu Muda is also likely to be high. From only one study on
mosses, it was revealed that Ulu Muda harbours 107 species of mosses, equivalent to about 21%
of the total for Peninsular Malaysia, 66 of which had never been recorded before from Kedah. The
number of moss species recorded at Ulu Muda is higher than than that recorded so far in EndauRompin (Johor) National Park, the Royal Belum State Park in Perak and even Taman Negara National
Park (encompassing parts of Terengganu, Kelantan and Pahang).
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Moss cover on fallen log - WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
Forest and river from the Kuala Labua Base Camp - WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
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Vegetation
Vegetation
flora attactions
effects of logging
&
impoundment
A substantial portion of the forest in
Ulu Muda has been modified by human
activities in relatively recent times. Parts
of the Ulu Muda forest were logged
between the 1960s and 1990s. Active
logging is still going on in the Sungai
Weng sub-catchment area where scientific
research has been conducted to study the
impacts of two different logging regimes –
conventional logging and reduced impact
logging. The Kedah State Government had
made the commitment not to log in the
catchment areas of the Muda, Pedu and
Ahning dams so as to protect the water
resources of Kedah.
Figure 5: Forest cover and selected dam catchment areas in Kedah
While traveling upstream on a boat into the interior of Ulu Muda and walking along the many trails,
it would be a mistake to only look out for animals. While tropical rainforests such as Ulu Muda may
not have many large, showy flowers more typical of temperate climates, there is much to appreciate
for those with a discerning eye. Some of the flora attractions of Ulu Muda are highlighted here.
Bungor trees (Lagerstroemia spp.) with large bunches
of conspicuous purple or lilac flowers are frequently
sighted along lakeshores and large rivers. Cultivated
varieties of bungor trees are common in cities and
towns as ornamentals.
Bungor flowers - WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
The impoundment of the three dams
altered the watercourses of the main
tributaries of Sungai Muda, creating three
large lakes and giving rise to seasonallyinundated floodplains at lower elevations.
These floodplains are dominated by
grasses, sedges and various species of
creepers and climbers. It cannot be denied
Map illustration adapted from A Study of Nature Tourism Development in
Ulu Muda / WWF 2002
that logging and the impoundment of
the three dams have altered a substantial
portion of the natural landscape of Ulu Muda. In the logged areas, there is a scarcity of very large
hardwood trees that are typical of primary forests. Under the canopy, the undergrowth is thick in
disturbed areas, with many thorny plants and a dense tangle of climbers and vines. During certain
times of the year, tree stumps are shrouded by creepers along the riverside, creating a landscape
resembling a topiary garden. However, in the more open areas, the profusion of herbaceous plants
following forest disturbance provides ample food for herbivores such as elephants, deer and tapir.
Kasai - Shamsul Khamis
Along smaller river tributaries,
during certain times of the
year, gapis trees(Saraca spp. )
are covered with bright orange
flowers that are a visual feast in
the sea of green.
Not much is known of the impact caused by human disturbance in Ulu Muda as there is hardly
any documentation on its state before these disturbances occurred. Much of what is known
about the biodiversity of Ulu Muda is gathered from
studies conducted mainly at Kuala Lasor and Kuala
Labua that are located at the transition zone between
primary forest and logged areas, and regenerating
logged forest, respectively. Very little is known about
the deeper interiors of Ulu Muda, particularly the Sg.
Teliang tributary and the area to the east of Sg. Lasor,
where the forest has never been logged. These areas
are the real hidden realm of Ulu Muda.
‘Topiary’ garden - WWF - Malaysia /S.Suksuwan
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The kasai tree (Pometia pinnata) with attractive reddish young
leaves is common along river banks. Like the bungor, it is now
widely used as an ornamental tree in urban landscaping. This
tree belongs to the same family as the rambutan and the fruits
are edible.
Gapis flowering - S.Suksuwan
Catfish whiskers - WWF - Malaysia / M.F. Lee
One remarkable flowering tree that can sometimes be
observed while walking in the forest is Polyalthia cauliflora,
locally known as janggut keli (“catfish whiskers”). This tree,
which is from the same family as the kenanga or ylang ylang,
has flowers with long narrow petals that appear in clumps
directly from its trunk.
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Vegetation
Vegetation
flora attactions
Trees
Large dipterocarp trees, many of which are economically
important due to their valuable timber, dominate primary
forest areas but are generally less conspicuous in logged-over
areas. Ulu Muda harbours several dipterocarp species that are
listed in the IUCN Red List as critically endangered including
mersawa (Anisoptera scaphula), keruing (Dipterocarpus dyeri),
keruing kesat (Dipterocarpus gracilis), keruing kerukup kecil
(Dipterocarpus hasseltii), gerutu
(Parashorea stellata), meranti batu
(Shorea guiso) and meranti sarang
punai (Shorea parvifolia).
Meranti Sarang Punai, a dipterocarp
species found at Ulu Muda- Mariam Jutta
Ulu Muda has a rich diversity of wild edible fruit trees including
kundang (Bouea oppositifolia), wild mangoes (Mangifera caesia,
M. griffithii and M. quadrifida), wild rambai (Baccaurea
macrocarpa, B. parviflora, B. polyneura and B. reticulata), perah
(Elateriospermum tapos), chestnut or berangan (Castanopsis
inermis), asam gelugor (Garcinia atroviridis), langsat (Lansium
domesticum), wild rambutan (Nephelium cuspidatum) and
kembang semangkok (Scaphium linearicarpum).
Even in the logged over areas of Ulu Muda, there are some trees
that are truly astounding. Tualang trees (Koompassia excelsa),
usually left untouched by loggers for superstitious and practical
reasons, are the tallest in the tropical world and can reach up
to around 80m in height. The massive limbs of these trees are
usually decorated with large nests made by honeybees (see page
22).
One special feature of Ulu Muda, which is rarely seen elsewhere, is
the large number of huge bungor trees. (Lagerstroemia sp.) For those
used to seeing their more slender counterparts in our towns and
cities, it can be at first difficult to believe that they could grow to this
size. Another common tree in Ulu Muda which can grow to gigantic
proportions is the sesenduk (Endospermum diadenum) which has
impressive buttress roots.
At Kuala Labua, the campsite is shaded by large kelumpang trees
(Sterculia foetida) of more than 30m in height that shed their leaves
during the dry season.
Bungor tree – WWF-Malaysia/
S.Suksuwan
Medicine chest
It has been said that the rainforest is nature’s drugstore and Ulu Muda
is no different. Apart from the run-of-the-mill medicinal plants such as
Tongkat Ali (Eurycoma longifolia), kacip Fatimah (Labisia pumila) and
hempedu beruang (Thottea grandifolia) there are also less familiar
medicinal plants, some of which have evocative names such as pecah
kelambu (“mosquito net breaker”, Dracaena elliptica), bujang hilir
(“downriver bachelor”, Peliosanthes teta) and susu ayam (“chicken’s
milk”, Paramigya lobata).
Wild Rambai – S.Khamis
Tualang - D J. Ong
Tongkat Ali –WWF-Malaysia/B.Perumal
A brief survey of the medicinal plants of Ulu Muda documented the
presence of at least 56 species that were used by local communities in
the surrounding areas. There are six main ways how plants are used in
traditional medicine – boiled and drunk as a tonic, eaten raw, used in
a bath, as poultice, rubbed directly and smoked like a cigarette. Some
plants are used to treat more than one ailment – for example, kacip
Fatimah is used for hemorrhoids, rheumatism and recovery after
childbirth.
Sesenduk tree - WWF - Malaysia / S.Hogg
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Fauna
- Greg Normington -
(Poet and novelist on Ulu Muda)
At dawn, the Ulu Muda forest reverberates with the chirping and melodious calls of birds and the
mournful calls of gibbons. At night the sounds are more mysterious, many of them unidentifiable
even by experienced naturalists. The dawn chorus and the night orchestra indicate that the forest
of Ulu Muda is teeming with life. Other tell-tale signs include the numerous wildlife tracks, with the
more commonly-observed ones made by the wild pig (Sus scrofa), the barking deer (Muntiacus
muntjak), the sambar deer (Cervus unicolor), the Malayan tapir (Tapirus indicus), the Asiatic
elephant (Elephas maximus), otters and wild cats.
Although large mammals may be the main
attraction for Ulu Muda, the area is also rich in other
wildlife. The diversity of amphibians and reptiles
here is particularly high, and it also harbours many
lowland forest birds that are becoming increasingly
rare in the country. In addition, the freshwater
fauna, including fish and aquatic insects, are wellrepresented in Ulu Muda. Insects, spiders and a
multitude of other invertebrates occupy every
imaginable niche in the varied habitats of Ulu
Muda. Representatives of these different groups
of animals contribute to the “jungle orchestra”,
ensuring that you will hear many animals on a
typical visit to Ulu Muda, even if you don’t get to
see them all!
Sambar deer - WWF - Malaysia / S.Hogg
Ulu Muda has long been considered an important site for the conservation of large mammals.
Theodore Hubback, who wrote the 1932 report, “The Wildlife Commission of Malaya”, noted the
abundance of wildlife at Ulu Muda. The critically endangered Sumatran rhinoceros (Dicerorhinus
sumatrensis) has been reported to occur at Ulu Muda but more surveys are needed to confirm its
presence.
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Asiatic elephants - WWF - Malaysia / S.Hogg
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Fauna
Fauna
mammals
importance
of
saltlicks
A total of 111 species of mammals have so
far been recorded for Ulu Muda, including
50 species of bats. Large mammals that
have been recorded here include the Asiatic
elephant, gaur or seladang (Bos gaurus
hubbacki), Malayan tapir, Malayan tiger
(Panthera tigris jacksoni) and Malayan sun
bear (Helarctos malayanus).
A saltlick is any mineral spring or ground containing or bearing salt or any other mineral, the
consumption of which is conducive to the health or well being of wild animals. The diet of most
herbivores is generally poor in minerals and therefore saltlicks play an important role in improving their
digestion. Saltlicks are also sites with high tourism potential because of the relatively high probability of
wildlife sightings in their vicinity. This potential has been exploited in many locations around the world
(including Taman Negara National Park in Malaysia).
The Malayan tiger - WWF - Malaysia/ M. Kavanagh
There is also a possibility that the critically
endangered and extremely rare Sumatran
Tapir caught on camera at Ulu Muda - WWF - Malaysia
rhinoceros (Dicerorhinus sumatrensis) may still
be found in Ulu Muda. Seven of the ten species
of primates found in Peninsular Malaysia are present in Ulu Muda, namely the white-handed
gibbon (Hylobates lar), agile gibbon (Hylobates agilis), dusky leaf monkey
(Trachypithecus obscurus), banded leaf monkey (Presbytis melalophos),
long-tailed macaque (Macaca fascicularis), pig-tailed macaque (Macaca
nemestrina) and slow loris (Nycticebus coucang).
Sira Air Hangat - WWF - Malaysia
Ulu Muda is one of only two places in Peninsular Malaysia (the other
being Belum-Temengor) where the white-handed gibbon and the agile
gibbon exist side-by-side. Sightings of the stump-tailed macaque (Macaca
arctoides) have been reported and if this rare monkey is proven to occur
in Ulu Muda, it would be only one of the two such sites in Malaysia (the
first being the Perlis State Park) where this primate can be found. Two rare
species of rodents, the greater bandicoot rat (Bandicota indica), and the
lesser bandicoot rat (Bandicota bengalensis) are believed to occur in Ulu
Muda.
Leopard cat caught on camera at Ulu Muda - WWF - Malaysia
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Dusky leaf monkey WWF - Malaysia / S.Hogg
Banded langur WWF - Malaysia / S.Hogg
White -handed gibbon WWF - Malaysia / G. Cubitt
There are numerous saltlicks in the Ulu Muda area, some with descriptive names – for example, Sira
Air Hangat (“Hot Spring Saltlick”), Sira Kawi, Sira Kumbang (“Beetle Saltlick”), Sira Keladi (“Taro or Yam
Saltlick”) and Sira Bungor – while others remain un-named. Sira Air Hangat is the most interesting
and frequently visited saltlick in the Ulu Muda due to the rare combination of an active hot spring and
saltlick. This saltlick is approximately 48m long and 24m wide. During a rapid assessment conducted by
WWF-Malaysia in 2005, the water temperature at the hotspring was recorded to be about 60°C. Animals
known to visit saltlicks at Ulu Muda include the Asian elephant, the Malayan tapir, deers and wild pigs.
Sira Air Hangat – Ronn
Vapour rising at Sira Air Hangat –Ronn
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Fauna
birds
Ulu Muda is a haven for discerning birders – so far 175 species of birds have been recorded in the
area, many of which are confined to lowland forests that are becoming increasingly rare in Malaysia.
Ulu Muda’s significance as a conservation site for birds has led to its listing as an Important Bird
Area (IBA) by Birdlife International and it’s Malaysian partner, the Malaysian Nature Society.
Nine of the ten species of hornbills occurring
in Peninsular Malaysia have been recorded at
Ulu Muda, making it among the best places for
hornbill sightings. Large flocks of the plainpouched hornbill (Aceros subruficollis) and
the wreathed hornbill (Aceros undulatus) were
first observed in Ulu Muda by members of the
Malaysian Nature Society in July 2004 at Kuala
Labua and Kuala Kawi. In a single evening, as
many as 1,223 birds were sighted at Kuala Kawi.
Prior to this, the only other site in Malaysia
where large flocks of these two species are
known to occur is the Temengor Forest Reserve.
The plain-pouched hornbill is listed in the IUCN
Red Data Book as vulnerable to extinction.
Other globally-threatened bird species found
in Ulu Muda include the Malaysian peacockpheasant (Polyplectron malacense), masked
finfoot (Heliopais personata), blue-banded
kingfisher (Alcedo euryzona), and straw-headed
bulbul (Pycnonotus zeylanicus). Ulu Muda is
the only confirmed breeding site in Peninsular
Malaysia of the hooded pitta (Pitta sordida
muelleri) and is the northern-most location
for the occurrence of the rare dusky eagle owl
(Bubo coromandus).
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Wreathed hornbill – WWF-Malaysia/M.Kavanagh
Great Argus pheasant caught on camera trap at Ulu Muda –WWF-Malaysia
Rhinoceros hornbill, one of nine species of hornbills found at Ulu Muda – WWF-Malaysia/S.Hogg
Straw-headed bulbul – WWF-Malaysia
Masked finfoot- WWF- Malaysia / S.Hogg
Tiger shrike photographed at Ulu Muda –
WWF-Malaysia/S.Hogg
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Fauna
Fauna
herpetofauna
&
fish
invertebrates
Although they may not be as spectacular as larger animals to most nature tourists, invertebrates
(animals without backbones) are the most dominant animal life form on the planet, both in terms
of abundance and diversity. They function as pollinators, parasites of other animals, scavengers,
decomposers and seed dispersers, and help improve soil conditions. Studies on the invertebrates
of Ulu Muda have just begun but the limited data available indicates that the area has considerable
diversity of insects, spiders and other members of this varied group.
Great anglehead lizard WWF - Malaysia / S.Hogg
Reticulated python – WWF-Malaysia/S.Hogg
Ulu Muda is particularly rich in reptiles and amphibians partly
because it represents the southern limits for many species of
mainland Asia. Surveys have so far shown that there are more
species of amphibians occurring here than in Endau-Rompin
National Park, with over 50 species recorded in the Weng subcatchment area of Ulu Muda, compared to 27 for Endau-Rompin.
One of these species is an entirely new species, tentatively named
Theloderma licin, which has also been found in southern Thailand
and Taman Negara.
So far, a total of 63 species of reptiles have been recorded in
the area comprising five turtle species, 25 lizard species and 33
species of snakes. The most commonly encountered reptiles in
Ulu Muda are the common skink (Mabuya multifasciata), the great
anglehead lizard (Gonocephalus grandis) and black bearded
gliding lizard (Draco melanopogon).
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One of the most distinctive and easily-spotted insects in
Ulu Muda is the lantern bug (Pyrops spp.). This creature
has a strange trunk-shaped extension on its head topped
with a red “bulb” at the end, hence its name. It usually
appear in pairs on the lower trunk of trees and has been
observed several times at the Kuala Labua base camp.
Butterflies, moths and stick insects are other attractive
insects to look out for at Ulu Muda.
Theloderma licin - Daicus Belabut
Lantern bug - WWF - Malaysia / S.Hogg
Spiny hill turtle - WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
The presence of large lakes and many pristine rainforest streams and rivers in Ulu Muda provides
a diversity of habitats for freshwater fish. A preliminary study on the fishes of Lasor River showed
that there is moderate diversity comprising a mixture of Peninsular Malaysian species and those
more commonly found in Indochina. There is potential for the introduction of sport fishing in Ulu
Muda as an additional source of tourism revenue for the state government. Important food and
aquarium fish found in Ulu Muda include tengas (Neolissocheilus soroides), sebarau (Hampala
macrolepidota), baung (Hemibagrus nemurus) and ratu (Devario regina).
Ikan Tengas - Amiruddin Ahmad
For example, a preliminary study on the wasp fauna of Ulu
Muda carried out during the 2003 scientific expedition
indicates that there are more subfamilies of the brachonid
wasps compared to Danum Valley in Sabah. Five new
species of cicadas were also discovered during the
scientific expedition.
Ikan Ratu - Amiruddin Ahmad
Damselfly - WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
Scorpion - WWF- Malaysia
/ S.Hogg
Huntsman spider
WWF - Malaysia / S.Hogg
Spiders are among the most frequently encountered
invertebrates and Ulu Muda is a fertile ground for
spider enthusiasts. Orbweb spiders (Order Araneidae)
spin large circular webs in which they lie waiting for
their unsuspecting victims. Other spiders, such as the
tarantulas (Family Theraphosidae), do not make webs but
rely on their speed and venom to catch their prey.
At the rivers and water-logged areas, aquatic insects
abound, including dragonflies and damselflies (Order
Odonata), mayflies (Order Ephemeroptera) and caddisflies
(Order Trichoptera). These insects spend at least part
of their life cycle in the water where they serve as an
important source of food for fishes and waterfowl.
When they emerge from the water, they are eaten by
insectivorous birds and frogs.
Any discussion on the invertebrates of Ulu Muda would
not be complete without mentioning leeches. Rest
assured, these blood-sucking creatures are present in
great numbers here. Although a major nuisance to many,
they do not carry any serious diseases and are mostly
harmless. The sooner you accept them as a natural part of
the landscape, the sooner you will focus on enjoying your 21
visit to Ulu Muda.
- Pak Teh ( A seasoned honey gatherer )
One of the cultural highlights of the Ulu Muda area is the unique traditional practice of wild honey
gathering by Malay villagers. Wild honey is collected from bee nests located high up the tallest
trees in the tropical rainforest, the tualang (Koompassia excelsa) which rise more 70m from the
forest floor. A single tualang tree can harbour more than 80 honeycombs measuring up to 2m
each.
Each honeycomb houses between 30,000 and 70,000 ferocious bees
of the species Apis dorsata, the largest among true honey bees in
the world, at about 2.5cm in length. It is estimated that there about
70 bands of honey gatherers operating in the Ulu Muda area, some
with special permission from the Sultan of Kedah.
The most prominent honey gatherer is octogenarian Salleh bin
Mohamed Noor, also known as Pak Teh, who began collecting
honey in 1965 but has since passed on the death-defying feat of
climbing the lofty tualang trees to his grandsons. Gathering honey
is an elaborate process which begins in the late afternoon with
the construction of a makeshift ladder from ground level up to the
honeycombs.
The collection of honey is only done during moonless nights
and traditional torches are used to produce glowing embers that
distract the bees from attacking the honey gatherers. There is much
mysticism associated with the collection of honey and a mantra
is recited during the ritual to appease the angry bees. Datuk Dr
Makhdzir Mardan, a professor of apiculture and pollination biology
at Universiti Putra Malaysia, is largely responsible for bringing this
unique practice to the attention of the outside world.
Honeycomb - Ronn
Constructing a makeshift ladder – Ronn
The amazing story of Pak Teh and his band of honey gatherers in the Pedu area of Ulu Muda has
now been turned into a beautifully-illustrated children’s book entitled The Bee Tree by Stephen
Buchmann and Diana Cohn with illustrations by Paul Mirocha.
22
Climbing a tualang tree – Ronn
(Much of the information on the honey gatherers is obtained from a series of newspaper articles by S.L. Wong, and The Bee Tree).
23
Unlike most other large forested areas in
Malaysia, there are no indigenous people
or any other community living within Ulu
Muda. There used to be several Malay and
Thai villages located within Ulu Muda but
they were relocated during the communist
insurgency.
Villagers sometimes act as plant collectors during scientific surveys WWF Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
Most villagers in the areas surrounding Ulu Muda are involved in agricultural activities especially
padi farming and cultivation of tropical fruits such as durian, dokong and rambutan. The two
main settlements located close to Ulu Muda are Gubir and Gulau. Some villagers at Gubir are also
engaged in fishing at the Muda Lake and double up as boatmen for visitors going into Ulu Muda.
These boatmen have formed a cooperative called Koperasi Ampangan Muda or KOPAM.
Bukit Fakir Terbang (Flying Pauper Hill) has an interesting legend behind its curious name. Once
upon a time there lived a pauper on a hill who wanted to fulfill his religious obligations to do his
pilgrimage in Mecca. Nearby villagers who were Mecca-bound made fun of his ambitious wish as
he had no means of paying for the expensive trip to the holy land. However, when they arrived in
Mecca after a long journey by boat they were greatly surprised when they saw the pauper there.
This led to them to believe that the pauper had flown there by some magical means and the hill
where the pauper lived was thereafter named after him.
Local communities are involved in tourism mainly as boat operators - WWF Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
24
Boat operators at Ulu Muda – WWF-Malaysia/S.Suksuwan
25
Wildlife watching, especially at saltlicks, is the main attraction at Ulu Muda. Ulu Muda has a number
of saltlicks (sira or jenut in Malay) of different characteristics. Kuala Labua is an ideal base for
visiting saltlicks as there are several in the vicinity. The most interesting saltlick is undoubtedly Sira
Air Hangat which is a combination of a hotspring and a saltlick (see page 17).
Birding in a forest environment can be challenging as the
birds are often heard rather than seen in the dense forest
canopy. A good guide would be able to tell you where the
prime birding spots are. However, even the most passive
birder would have no trouble spotting large flocks of
hornbills, usually seen in the months of July and August.
Other saltlicks within easy walking distance from Kuala
Labua or a short boat ride away are Sira Keladi and Sira
Bungor. Trekking a few hours upstream of Kuala Labua will
bring you to other saltlicks including Sira Kumbang and Sira
Batu.
Please note that saltlicks are environmentally-sensitive areas
and care should be taken not to disturb the surroundings
in any way. Pay particular attention to your guide’s advice
Sira Air Hangat- Ronn
regarding the saltlicks.
Even though it is very difficult to actually see large mammals,
there are plenty of opportunities for indirect observation
through the sighting of wild animal tracks, droppings, wallows
and so on. Gibbons and monkeys are easier to observe and so
are the many small mammals such as squirrels, tree-shrews and
bats.
The waterfall at Carok Tera is worth visiting as it has a very
pleasant setting with cool, pristine water cascading over
exposed rocks.
The recently-discovered limestone hill is a new attraction for
Ulu Muda. The moderately large caves have interesting cave
formations such as stalagmites, stalactites, cave curtains and
gour pools (see page 5).
Another popular night activity is frogging along the
many streams in Ulu Muda. There are frogs of many
shapes, sizes and colours to be found. The Lasor River at
the vicinity of Kuala Labua is quite shallow and safe for
swimming most of the year except during the height of
the rainy season. However, even during drier parts of the
year, the water level can rise quickly if there is a downpour.
Another water activity that is being tried out at Kuala
Labua is “tubing” where you gently float downstream on
an inflated over-sized inner tube of a tyre.
Birding - WWF - Malaysia
The Labua River itself is particularly good for a cool
dip as it has many small pools that some people have
referred to as “jungle jacuzzis”. The more adventurous
may opt to do a spot of caving or hike up Bukit Saiong,
located between Pedu Lake and Muda Lake.
Tubing at Kuala Labua - WWF Malaysia
Carok Tera - WWF - Malaysia / S.Hogg
Cave formations – WWF-Malaysia/S.Hogg
26
Illustration adapted from coordinates plotted on Google Earth Image by Resource Stewardship
Consultants Sdn Bhd (RESCU), 2007
A stalagmite –WWF-Malaysia/S.Hogg
Crossing the Muda River – WWF-Malaysia/S.Suksuwan
An unusual-looking insect – WWF-Malaysia/S.Hogg
27
Currently, there is no single management authority for the Ulu Muda area. Most of the forested
areas are within forest reserves under the management of the Kedah State Forestry Department.
Permits must be obtained from the District Forest Officer of the Kedah Tengah Forestry District
office based at Sungai Petani prior to entering the Ulu Muda.
Is also advisable to inform the local police station of your intended itinerary in Ulu Muda in case of
unexpected eventualities. Organising a trip through a licensed guide or tour operator will usually
save you the trouble of obtaining the necessary permits yourself.
Wildlife protection and management is under the jurisdiction of the Department of Wildlife &
National Parks (also known as PERHILITAN). If you see any incidence of illegal hunting and trapping
of animals in the Ulu Muda area, please report it to PERHILITAN. The headquarters of PERHILITAN
Kedah is in Alor Setar while there is a ranger office at Gubir.
The three man-made lakes in Ulu Muda are under the management of the Muda Agricultural
Development Authority or MADA located at Alor Setar. The Department of Fisheries, also based in
Alor Setar, issues permits for fishing in the lake area and enforces the no-fishing zone at Sg. Teliang.
General information on tourism in Kedah and Ulu Muda can be obtained from the Kedah Tourism
Action Council which is based in Alor Setar.
Please note: It is illegal to hunt, hurt or disturb animals in Ulu Muda and removal of any
plants or minerals is strictly prohibited.
Ulu Muda is located about 95km east of Alor Setar. The gateway to Ulu Muda for most visitors is the
KOPAM jetty near the village of Gubir. Here, visitors can hire long-tailed boats piloted by local inland
fishermen. The cost for renting a boat including the service of the boatman is about RM90 a day.
Another entry point is located near the village of
Gulau, to the south-east of Gubir. There is an old
logging track (accessible only to 4WD vehicles) that
leads to the Kuala Lasor campsite located about
14km (or 45 minutes) away from Gulau. Visitors will
have to make their own arrangements for a 4WD. A
better option would be to go through a licensed tour
guide or tour operator.
Chartered taxis can be hired from major urban
KOPAM Jetty at Ulu Muda - WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
centres in Kedah, such as Alor Setar and Sg. Petani, to
the KOPAM jetty, Gubir or Gulau. The nearest petrol stations are located just outside Gubir and at
Kuala Nerang. There are sundry shops and roadside food stalls at Gubir and Gulau.
Limited parking space for vehicles is available at the KOPAM jetty near Gubir. At the MADA resort
in Gubir double rooms are available at RM60 per night while chalets are priced at RM70 per night.
A dormitory bed costs RM10 per night but a minimum booking of 25 beds is required. Basic
campsites are available at Kuala Labua and Kuala Lasor. Ronn’s Adventures ([email protected].
my) provides guiding services approved by the Ministry of Tourism and has a range of attractive
packages for nature tourism at Ulu Muda.
Sunset at Ulu Muda - WWF - Malaysia / S.Suksuwan
28
29
Kedah State Forestry Department :
Jabatan Perhutanan Negeri Kedah
Tingkat 8, Bangunan Sultan Abdul Halim
Jalan Sultan Badlishah
05000 Alor Setar, Kedah
Tel: +604-7333844
Fax: +604-7310610
Pejabat Hutan Daerah Kedah Tengah
08000 Sungai Petani, Kedah
Tel: +604-4212835
Fax: +604-4252835
Department of Wildlife and National Parks (Peninsular Malaysia):
Jabatan PERHILITAN Kedah
Tingkat. 9, Wisma Persekutuan,
Jalan Kampung Baru,
05664 Alor Star, Kedah
Tel: +604-7302245
Fax: +604-7342012
Further Reading
Buchmann, S., D. Cohn & P. Mirocha. 2007. The Bee Tree. Cinco Puntos Press, El Paso, Texas, USA.
Chong, M.H.N., S.H. Tang & S. Suksuwan. 2005. Management Recommendations for Wildlife
Saltlicks with Special Reference to Sira Air Hangat at Ulu Muda Forest Reserve, Kedah. WWFMalaysia report produced under Project MY0163c.
McLeod, D.S. & Norhayati Ahmad. 2007. A New Species of Theloderma (Anura: Rhacophoridae)
from Southern Thailand and Peninsular Malaysia. Russian Journal of Herpetology. Vol. 14 (1):
65-72.
Phang, F.K. 2004. The Plain-pouched Hornbills of Ulu Muda. Pencinta Alam (December): 5.
Shaharuddin Mohammad Ismail, Che Hashim Hassan, Mohd. Puad Dahalan, Jalil Md. Som,
Norhaidi Yunus & A. Latiff. 2005. Hutan Simpan Ulu Muda: Pengurusan, Persekitran Fizikal dan
Biologi. Jabatan Perhutanan Semenanjung Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur.
Stevens, W.E. (Colombo Plan ecologist). 1968. The Conservation of Wild Life in West Malaysia.
Unpublished report by the Office of the Chief Game Warden, Federal Game Department.
Ministry of Land and Mines, Seremban, Malaysia.
Department of Fisheries:
Wong, S. L. 2007. Telling the Hunter’s Tale. The Star newspaper (Malaysia) 4 March.
Pejabat Perikanan Negeri Kedah
Tingkat 5, Wisma Persekutuan
Jalan Kampung Baru
05000 Alor Setar, Kedah
Tel: +604-7342135, 7342137
Fax: +604-7304623
Wong, S. L. 2007. Collecting from ‘Hitam Manis’. The Star newspaper (Malaysia) 4 March.
Kedah State Tourism Action Council :
WWF-Malaysia. 2002. A Study of Nature Tourism Development in Ulu Muda, Kedah Darulaman:
Formulation of a Spatial and Conceptual Guideline for the Sustainable Nature Tourism
Development of the Forests of Ulu Muda. A report produced by WWF-Malaysia for the State
Government of Kedah,
Malaysia.
Yeap, C.A., A.C. Sebastian and G.W.H. Davison (compilers). 2007. Directory of Important Bird
Areas in Malaysia: Key Sites for Conservation. Malaysian Nature Society, Kuala Lumpur. (MNS
Conservation Publication No. 8).
Majlis Tindakan Pelancongan Negeri Kedah
Kompleks Pelancongan Negeri Kedah
Jalan Raja
05000 Alor Star, Kedah.
Tel: +604-7351030, 7328296
Fax: +604-7327914
MADA & MADA Resort :
Muda Agricultural and Development Authority (MADA)
Ampang Jajar
Lencong Barat
05990 Alor Setar, Kedah
Tel: +604-7728255
Fax: +604-7722667
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31
~ Acknowledgements ~
This booklet was made possible through the generous funding from the Malaysian
Wildlife Conservation Foundation. We are very grateful for the cooperation and support
from the Kedah State government particularly the Kedah State Forestry Department, the
Department of Wildlife and National Parks (PERHILITAN) and the Kedah Tourism Action
Council. Donovan Louis did a commendable job with the layout and graphics, and never
once complained about the sometimes confusing demands placed on him by the author.
My highest gratitude and respect to Hymeir Kamarudin and Rohani Rahmani (Ronn)
for their generous contribution of the survey map for the caves, and whom, together
with Phang Fatt Khow of the Malaysian Nature Society Kedah Branch, have tirelessly
championed efforts to promote nature tourism at, and appreciation of, Ulu Muda. Thanks
also to Yeap Chin Aik and Nina Cheung of the Malaysian Nature Society for their valuable
assistance on the birds of Ulu Muda, Stephen Hogg of WWF-Malaysia for contributing
the many wonderful photographs that appear in this booklet, Elizabeth Liew of WWFMalaysia for the much-needed coordination assistance, and Dr. Dionysius Sharma, Dr.
Arun Venkataraman, Kevin Hiew and Ivy Wong of WWF-Malaysia for their guidance and
encouragement. Hazman Mohd. Zaki of Taman Botani Putrajaya and Shamsul Khamis
of Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia provided assistance on the plants of Ulu Muda while
Dr. Norhayati Ahmad of Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia shared additional information
on the new species of frog found at Ulu Muda. Lim Teck Wyn of Resource Stewardship
Consultants assisted in the production of a map of the main attractions at Ulu Muda.
Wong Siew Lyn and Mike Chong provided many helpful suggestions for improving the
draft text. Gregory Norminton kindly allowed his haiku to be reproduced in this booklet.
Many thanks to Donovan Louis, Mariam Jutta, Audrey Lee, Dylan Jefri Ong, Rohani
Rahmani (Ronn ) and Shamsul Khamis for contributing photographs at short notice.
Special thanks to the Malaysian public for their generous donations which funds WWFMalaysia’s Project MY0220 (Strengthening the Protected Areas System of Peninsular
Malaysia).
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33
ULU MUDA
S
S
THE HIDDEN REALM OF THE MALAYSIAN RAINFOREST
In the northern end of Peninsular Malaysia bordering Thailand, there is a
relatively unknown expanse of lush rainforest almost twice the size of
Singapore, and accessible mainly by boat. Upon entering this ancient forest,
the visitor enjoys a feeling of seclusion rarely felt elsewhere in this increasingly
crowded planet. In the rainforest of Ulu Muda there are rivers, lakes, caves and
scattered saltlicks, including one that spews steamy hot sulphuric water that
provides much-needed minerals for wild animals.
This book gives a glimpse of what Ulu Muda has to offer as a key site for wildlife
conservation and nature tourism. Its geology, hydrology, flora and fauna are
briefly introduced with a generous dose of colourful photos and maps, and useful
nuggets of information for the would-be visitors.
Ulu Muda has so far escaped the attention of even well-travelled nature
enthusiasts but for those who make the extra effort, they are usually rewarded
with soothing green vistas, a free performance by the “jungle orchestra”, and for
the very lucky, a glimpse of the wild inhabitants of the forest.
34